Sunday, March 13, 2011

Maeshafn climbing

Crag: Maeshafn
Routes: Shattered Crack (HS 4a:sh), Sling variant (HS 4a:sh), The Arete (VS 5a:sh), Dandy Lion (HS 4b:sh), Sling (HS 4a:sh), Wavy Wall (S:sol), Running wolf variant (5b:sh)

Found myself in the unusual position of having some time on my hands after the race, but no partner, so after a warm-down I headed up to Maeshafn in glorious bracing sunshine to shunt a few old easy favourites. Shattered Crack is always good value: must have done it 20 times over the years. I then picked a route between Sling and the harder routes to the right, trying to avoid the big holds. The Arete is a nice climb, better than I remembered, up a nice clean pillar and not too polished if you weave around a bit. I claimed the first ascent of Dandy Lion back in 1991 or so, only to find I'd been beaten to this very obvious easy line by a month or two! Went up and down Sling a few times, then moved round to the White Wall, which looked like it had been cleaned up and was very tempting in the sunshine - almost Provencal if you squinted. I weaved up the Running with the Wolf wall, nice technical moves. After a quick bite looking out over the Clwydians, I jogged up Moel Findeg to finish.

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