Moelwyn climbing

Crag: Clogwyn yr Oen, Moelwynion
Routes: Pied Piper (S 4a:led p.1,3), Kirkus's Climb (VD:led p.1,2), Kirkus's Climb Direct (S 4a:sec), Block (S 4a,4a:led p.1), Orange Outang (HS 4a,4b:led p.1)
Out on strike today so keen to take advantage of the free pass. And, serendipity, a beautiful spring day with midweek partners available. Still needing early-season leading mileage, the bumbly playground of Clogwyn yr Oen was the obvious choice for Mick and I. Wonderful warm sunshine as we began the pleasant rib line of Pied Piper on the right of the crag. I led up a slab to a wet chimney, then Mick led a good clean pitch up the edge of the rib. The last pitch goes over a wet break to a quartz slab split by a thin crack. Good climbing up this to a hidden corner, which leads steeply to the top. After a bite, I merged p.1 and 2 of Kirkus's Climb, having done the more famous Direct many years ago. The indirect goes up a thrutchy chimney to a slab, then a broad crack up to the ledge. The problem is that it is then impossible for any normal person to avoid the temptation of doing the delightful arete (3rd) pitch of the Direct by sneaking off into the side groove of the Indirect. So we didn't: sun-drenched and superb easy climbing up jugs in a lovely position. Another quick descent, achilles playing up slightly, before I led the long 40m+ first pitch of Block. More gentle fun, varied climbing up slabs and short walls to the block, before enjoying the fine slab to the ledge. Mick then led another long pitch up the corner, before two more steep cracks led back left to the top. There was just time for a romp up Orange Outang before we finished, this time with Vic and Caroline who arrived at lunchtime. This route takes the steeper wall near Pinky and gives easy climbing up pocketed slabs to brief moves over a tiny overhang on enormous holds. Finished off with some bouldering, but didn't run as my achilles twinge (developed through compensating for the knee) worsened during a long 13m hill run yesterday over Waun y Llyn to Llan y Gwr and over the top towards Bwlchgwyn and back. Will try the full Famau run tomorrow evening as another test, then rest up for Sunday's big cycle sportive, which should ease the stress on the achilles nicely.