Carreg Wastad climbs

Crag: Carreg Wastad, Llanberis
Routes: Lion (VS 4a,4c,4a,-:led p.1,3), Main Scoop Route (HS 4a,4a,4a,4b:led p.1,3)
A fortnight after our last visit to the sunny side of the Pass, and about 18 months since we blitzed this particular crag on a memorable September day. This wasn't quite so productive (still in early season shakedown mode) but gave pleasant climbing in lovely early spring weather. I've done all the easier classics on this crag over the years, so it was time to get a little more esoteric - even though we had the crag to ourselves. Vic hadn't done Lion either, so I led the first pitch, which is easy but not over-endowed with gear. After starting the traverse on the second pitch too low, a bit of crafty rope management was required to get back on track. An excellent, very varied pitch at the top of the grade. Nice moves up to the overlap before a delightful traverse across the slab leads to the overhanging chimney. This is pretty brutal on first acquaintance, and needs a mixture of jamming and bridging to overcome it. Physical and almost ungradeable! I led the third, another easy but pleasant pitch in a great position. It traverses right to join uber-classic Crackstone Rib - lovely climbing on huge holds to the belay. Vic led a short fourth pitch to finish. Our next choice, Main Scoop, is another old but obscure route. A vegetated slab leads to a greasy chimney, then a thrutch through a holly tree to the top of the Red Tower. A short traverse gains the line of the Main Scoop: Vic led to the top in one long pitch. Shame this doesn't see more traffic, as it's a good line higher up but remains mossy and vegetated. A tricky groove leads to two steep chimneys, all quite interesting, before a final steep move (the Hard Court) right at the top. Finished later than expected and jogged back to the car. It was going to be very tight if I was to make the second appointment: the final Dash in the Dark fell race of the winter!