Castle Inn climbing

Crag: Castle Inn Quarry
Routes: Indian Summer (f6a:led), As You Like It (f6b+:sec), Conan the Libertarian (f5+:led), October Premiere (f5+:sec), Conan Eliminate (f6a:sec), Hidden Gem (f3+:sol), Route 2 (f6a:sec)
Having visited this crag dozens of times over many years, it's not surprising that there are only a few gaps left. One such is As You Like It, a tough 6b+ over the obvious bulge on the Fine View wall. We prepared for this by taking turns to lead Indian Summer for a warm up: always enjoyable, edging up the wall on small pockets and tiny ledges, good rough limestone. The sun came out and prospects looked good for Dave's lead of the 6b+. Vic and I followed, knowing that it is a hard route to onsight and keenly aware of my current lack of forearm strength. A steep slab with some good moves leads to an undercut and good moves right to where the route steepens. The last 5 metres of the climb contain most of the action: continuously steep and pumpy, leading to the crux at the final bolt, which requires a high step to a sloping foothold then a kind of layaway to a final jug. Very strenuous, draining climbing which took a couple of attempts to get right. Big lactic build-up, which was hard to shake off, although I felt OK for my next lead up the 5+ of Conan. After some lunch, we all took turns at various eliminates on this side wall, hot sunshine now, before finishing with the old favourite of Route 2 up the centre of the main face. I have done this route many times over several decades and always remember the crux moves up to a tiny pinched stalactite. Technical rather than strenuous, thank goodness.