Yr Arddu climbing

Crag: Lliwedd Bychan (Yr Arddu)
Routes: Heather Gully (D:sol), Central Route (VD:sh), Orthin (HS 4b:sh), Eastern Route (S:sol/sh), Right Gully Rim (D:sol), Left Gully Rim (D:sol)
I last drove up the single track road from Gwynant to Nantmor in 1989, but only remembered quite how narrow it is when I was an irreversible mile in to it. After lengthy shenanigans and a ludicrous encounter with a steam roller I arrived at Coed Dolfnog south of Buarthau and began what I suspected might be a tenuous walk-in to the somewhat obscure crags of Yr Arddu. The narrow path, marked on the map, is navigable initially through the superb oak woodland. Above this, however, the wet summer had rendered it essentially impassable. I followed the wall above the woods first, but gave up in extraordinary neck-deep ferns. I've experienced this kind of thing all too often, however, so persisted higher up the western side of Yr Arddu. It got worse as I tried to contour round to the obvious wall that heads east to the crags: heather, bogs, ferns, thistles. I lost my water bottle in the chaos: cue dehydration to add to the fun. It was as bad as anything I've experienced in a lifetime of this sort of nonsense, including the northern Rhinogs, and my legs were still a bit tired after yesterday's race. After a steep climb, much blood and torn clothing, the terrain got better (just bog and waist deep ferns) and a tiny path led to Lliwedd Bychan. This gave a splendid couple of hours entertainment, a 30m slabby crag ideal for the solo wanderer with superb views to Cnicht, Moelwynion and Traeth Lafan: perfect weather, warm sunshine and crystal clear clarity throughout. The sun had just left the face as I plotted my way up the delightfully simple Heather Gully, then abbed off for Central Route (partially shunted), which takes a gently sustained line up the face on sharp little holds. Good consistent pitch at the grade. Orthin was a tad more technical, with good 4b moves over a bulge at the top, then I moved the backrope a little. Eastern Route is probably the most obvious actual line: taking a slab to a shallow corner, then steeper moves trending left to the top. Two easy solos completed the fun. My plan was then to run up Cnicht, but the walk-in (and the fact that I didn't start until nearly 4pm having spent most of the day at work) put paid to that. Instead I bushwhacked my way out, shedding more blood and sweat, and plunged my head into the stream above the woods, drinking deeply with huge relief. After a wash in the River Nantmor next to the car, I retired for fish and chips in Penrhyndaedraeth then a peaceful night next to Llyn Dubach in the moors between Llan Ffestiniog and Penmachno, the ancestral home. A full moon rising over Arenig and beautiful pink sunset made up for the midges.