Tuesday, August 16, 2016

Clogwyn Cyrau climbing

Crag: Clogwyn Cyrau (Betws y Coed)
Routes: Conwy Corner (S:sec), Long Climb Direct (S:led), Central Route/Long Climb (HS:sec), Bomber's Wall Route Route One (HS 4b,4b:led p.1)
A little tired after the last few days, and my early start, so Vic's suggestion of Clogwyn Cyrau sounded like a good idea. I've done all these routes before, but that is not always a bad thing and lent a welcome relaxed air to the morning. The beautiful morning turned into a perfect August day, with wonderful views over Siabod from the top of the crag with the heather and rowan in full bloom: unusual clarity for the time of year. Conwy Corner is a nice line with mild bridging, probably the third time I've done it. A predictably overgrown descent path, followed by a walk to the main crag where I kicked off with Long Climb Direct: this is a nice 30m pitch up a steepish corner to an old oak tree before a slabby and easy finish. Vic set off up Central Climb, but ended up traversing right along the original Long Climb instead: I did exactly the same thing when trying to lead this hard to follow VS a few years ago. After lunch, we finished with Bomber's Wall where I led the nice first pitch up a rib to a thread, then a broad groove with some tricky moves to a sapling. Easy ground leads to a huge flake belay. Above, Vic led the enjoyable finishing groove. There are two independent versions of this route - I've certainly done it before, but couldn't quite remember which version! Hot and sweaty by now, so the dappled woodland descent gave a welcome cool-down.

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