Llanberis Slate Climbing

Crag: Llanberis Slate (California, Serengeti, Never Never Land)
Routes: We No Speak Americano (f6a:led), A Pair of Six (E2:sec), Serengeti Express (f3:sec), Peter Pan (f6a+:led), Sans Chisel Variation (f6b:sec), Hawkeye (f5:sec), Macsen (f5+:led), Fresh Air (f5+:sec)
Not the day we had planned, but it was the only option when Vic realised he'd forgotten the wires as we started to gear up at the base of Craig Ddu. A very hot and humid day in a dry week, hence our choice of that normally wet and forbidding crag, but the lack of gear forced our hand: slate was the only option. As it happened, it was an excellent one, and I suggested a 'touring' approach, which works really well and adds an extra exploratory dimension to the quarries. We walked past the now-banned Dali's Hole, getting great views down to the pool from the contouring path which leads to the tunnel through to California. I got the wrong tunnel initially, but then you emerge at the dripping wet initial pit, followed by another tunnel to the atmospheric upper level of California, a huge bowl of slate: massive boulders and big walls all around. Our route was, in contrast to all that seriousness, an amenable f6a, albeit in a sombre atmosphere far removed from the usual sports clip-ups. I led up a shallow groove, steepish but on excellent holds to a belay ledge. An easy aperitif, and it seemed logical to continue up the harder second 'pitch', which has some thought-provoking moves up a series of fairly steep bulges. One of these contained a wasp's nest - which meant an interesting 'mounting' of a sharp bulging arete trying to avoid it. The pitch was a good 30m long, absorbing and surprisingly good, in atmospheric surroundings: well worth the effort, all clean and on-sight. We took the opportunity to second A Pair of Six, less amenably bolted, but similar in standard: hard moves above the ledge, after which we lowered off for a delayed lunch. The mild adventure then continued, up the sliding scree to the top of the California bowl, then across a verdant area being reclaimed by birches and rich vegetation, up steps to rope up for the mini 'climb' up a stepped groove (Serengeti Express) which leads to a small plateau overlooking California. From here, a tunnel brings you out above the Serengeti level and big views across to Nant Peris and Yr Wyddfa. Some intermittent rainfall, but it was so hot that the slate was drying almost immediately. Because we were limited to sports routes, I decided to go for Peter Pan, an eye-catching and photogenic line I have looked at before. It is an unusual route, which takes a slanting and steep seam with all the bolts on the smooth wall to the right. All quite steep and slightly off-balance, but good holds all the way to the mildly famous crux at the top. This involves a hidden hold. Not sure if I found it, but my solution was to lay away off a sidepull before a very long reach for a long, flat hold and a powerful move to the top. A satisfying route to do clean and onsight. We nipped up the 6b further right, deciding to pass on the desperate-looking Nick the Chisel at 7b! The 6b takes a series of small ledges up to good moves on small pockets to gain easier flakes. On the way back to the car, we stopped at the edge of Never Never Land to do a few more routes: I seconded Vic up Hawkeye, which I've done before, then led Macsen in the rain up sharp flakes and a short corner. As is often the case here, this is absurdly overgraded and would probably be f4 in Provence. Fresh Air is always a nice way to finish: then it was a jog back to the car and a long journey to the start of the Beast race in Maeshafn, and part two of the day.