Wednesday, June 07, 2017

Pontesford climbing

Crag: Pontesford Rocks (Shropshire)
Routes: Oak Tree Wall Direct (HVD:led), Finale Groove (VS 4a,4b:sec), The Notch (S:sec), Wall End Climb (VD:led), West Crack (M:solo), Right-Hand Route (VD:led), Awaken (VS 5a:sec), Wall End Slab Direct p.2 (S:led)
With rain scheduled to sweep in from the west, a change to the usual routine was in order: so we headed east, to Shropshire, well away from normal stamping grounds but only an hour's drive for me. I know the Shropshire hills quite well for running, having done most of the classic fell races, but the majority of these are centred on Church Stretton. Pontesford sits above an even more tranquil valley, and is a truly delightful location. The climbing is not the best, perhaps, but the routes are pleasant enough and the aspect is worth the trip on its own. After a lot of recent rain, the valley below Earl's Hill was verdant and the skies were blue and the air crisp, with great clarity for the distant views to the Wrekin, Caer Caradoc and the Stiperstones. I set off up Oak Tree Wall for an aperitif, taking the main sweep of slabby rock (igneous - a rather smooth version of Welsh granite, running to flat holds and generally easy-angled). A tricky start over an overlap led to big flat holds then a rising traverse left to avoid the big ledge and keep the route continuous. We then adopted an interchangeable approach to routes further right. Vic led the first pitch of Finale Groove, which is a one move wonder from an inset slab over an edge to gain a bigger, easy slab. We were both initially baffled by the upper groove, so finished up The Notch, a slight thrutch with an unusual use of the posterior facilitating progress. Back at the bottom of the same slab, I led up Wall End Climb before Vic finished up Finale Groove, coming in from the right this time. A satisfying technical move with careful footwork gains the groove before an easier direct finish. I nipped up West Crack (which we'd descended the scrambling version of) before leading Right-Hand Route. Despite its simplicity, this was the best route on the crag in my view: a good long pitch straight up the cleanest and most attractive part of the face. Never remotely difficult, but a fine consistent route at the grade and very enjoyable. We finished with another one-move wonder further right: a 5a rockover to gain the Wall End Slab again. I finished up the obvious ridge, to complete the three variations possible from the big stance. It started to spit with rain as we descended: unconventional venue choice vindicated.

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