Knoydart traverse

Peaks: Ladhar Bheinn

Area: Knoydart, Scotland

The legendary 'rough bounds' of Knoydart: my return to this wonderful area after 23 years. I have strong memories of that 1998 trip, when I walked in from Loch Arkaig and stayed in the famous Sourlies bothy for a few nights with Rob and Pete. Ladhar Bheinn was the big gap, however, and the biggest prize. It is undoubtedly one of Scotland's finest mountains, and having done (arguably) all the other contenders for that title, I was keen to add it to the list. I travelled across to Inverie on the small fast boat from Mallaig at 6pm after my day on the Corriehully horseshoe and spent a wonderful evening in sparkling perfect weather, the Western Highlands at its best. I had a pint at the Old Forge, Britain's remotest pub, sitting on the shores of Loch Nevis as England played Germany. I pitched in a superb spot at the Long Beach campsite and just soaked in the atmosphere. Next morning dawned grey, humid, cloudy and very midgy - but again there seemed prospects of a clearance. I was in no rush, but set out around 8.30 for the long trek up the valley on the Barrisdale path (a major crossing) to Loch an Dubh Lochan. I had wanted to take in the striking forepeak of Sgurr Coire Coinneachean but the clag was so dense I decided against it. This meant that I had to gain the main ridge via Mam Suidheag instead. This was horrendous, pathless and extremely humid, through vast ferns and tussocks to eventually gain the broad col in the mist. I had picked a good line up, though, and gained a faint path which embarks on a giant loop of the ridges that enclose and encircle the Ghuisearan valley. The atmospheric effects were spectacular, with mist beginning to peel away from the ridge as I continued upwards towards Aonach Sgoilte. On the right, Luinne Bheinne and Meall Bhuidhe (which we did in 1998) emerged from the mist, and then - temporarily at first - Ladhar Bheinn loomed across the valley into a blue sky. The ridge splits in two at Sgoilte, then kinks round to the left and up to the subsidiary summit of Stob a'Chearchaill. This has superb views of the next section, as the ridge again kinks, NW this time towards Coire Dhorcaill, a superb corrie which lends definition to Ladhar Bheinn but is hidden from view from the west. The weather was properly clearing now and views on all sides were stunning: a real privilege to get this mountain on such a day. The remaining ridge was surprisingly long and quite tiring, with short scrambling sections in places. It rears up steeply towards the end to finish on the narrow but grassy summit ridge. From the summit, many memories as I looked around. I could see the eccentric tea shack in Corran directly down across Loch Hourn, visited with the family in 2012. And also Beinn Sgritheall which I did that same trip. Ahead, the entire Skye ridge in perfect clarity above the sea fret. Of course, I had the mountain to myself (although I did see a man lower down the ridge), and so was able to soak in the wonderful feeling of being a very long way from the nearest road. The descent down to An Diollaid was an easy delight, a really surprising bonus, down springy turf. At the spur, it turns left down to the base of the valley and then a very long (10k) descent back to Inverie on tracks which become quite tedious towards the end. After such a classic traverse of such a classic peak, I spent a delightful afternoon just relaxing and rehydrating before enjoying a pizza from an outside stall near the pier in Inverie! I was back in Mallaig just after 7pm and recuperated further with another quiet bivouac at Lochailort station.

Corriehully horseshoe

Peaks: Sgurr nan Coireachan, Meall an Tarmachain, Beinn Gharbh, Sgurr Thuilm

Area: Glenfinnan, Scotland

Earlier this month, we made a family trip to Glenfinnan in perfect weather. I'd never been before, and although I was aware of the area's mountains I don't think I had realised quite how appealing (and numerous) they were. So it seemed a logical decision to head back there with the promising western forecast. This circuit was an obvious starting point, and it gave a superb outing in stunning conditions. I woke in Lochailort to low cloud, which seemed to contain the obvious potential for a cloud inversion. So I drove to Glenfinnan and then cycled up the metalled road most of the way to the Corriehully bothy in the early morning under a blanket of very low cloud. After a chat with the landowner, I entered the bothy for a second nap. It is one of the best bothies in Scotland, the fabled 'electric bothy', the only one with lights and a kettle as far as I'm aware. Excitement soon got the better of me and I started out up the top of the Glenfinnan valley in the direction of Sgurr Thuilm, which poked through the thick mist at one point. I was fairly convinced that the summits would be clear of the mist so pelted up the stalkers path towards Sgurr nan Coireachan, straight into thick mist. This ascent was really enjoyable as it weaved up the ridge through the mist and soon a little patch of blue appeared above. Within a few minutes I broke through to crystal blue skies and a sea of cloud. These moments are always absolutely magical: I've been lucky enough to experience a few cloud inversions over the decades but this was very special. A sort of plinth was poised above the Glenfinnan valley and a thick white blanket stretched out south and west, with all the high peaks poking through. The route goes first up a forepeak before a sharp climb leads to a complex section of rock and little pools (all the time with stunning views above the clouds on all sides) until the final push to the top of Sgurr nan Coireachan. The view was predictably magnificent: the cloud inversion was dissipating to the east, while to the west a blanket of cloud but with the Knoydart peaks, Rum and Moidart resplendent above - all of which I would visit later in the week. The sharp Sgurr na Ciche is particularly notable, bringing back memories of my ascent in wet snow, April 1998. Next came the surprisingly long ridge over to Sgurr Thuilm. This took far longer than I'd expected, over two sizeable subsidiary summits with a few rocky sections, and it was a long haul up to the main summit of Thuilm. Quite tiring, so I stopped for a while on the summit, gazing down the empty valleys and Loch Morar to the north. The descent, down the long SW ridge, was superb - looking directly down Glenfinnan to the viaduct far below - the beautiful green upper valley had native woodland on its lower slopes. Dehydrated, I was glad to get to the stream, and glad to reach the easy track back to the bothy and my bike as it was very hot by now. An easy bike ride back to Glenfinnan for the ultimate contrast, hundreds of immaculate tourists (but also a nice lunch and cold drinks).  

Glen Falloch peaks

Peaks: Beinn a'Chroin, An Caisteal

Area: Crianlarich, Scotland

With time and leave at my disposal, but few options in terms of getting away, I had been keeping a close eye on the weather. My plan was to head to Shetland, to fill an obvious interesting 'staycation' gap while I had the chance. However, the weather was looking better and better in the Western Highlands, to the point that it became essential to head up there instead. A rough plan was quickly hatched, and I headed off the morning after having my second pfizer jab. Less than 24 hours after that jab I was parked up at Crianlarich and heading up Glen Falloch in beautiful warm early afternoon sunshine (after coffee and baguette on the shores of Loch Lomond). I stopped off here en route to Skye three years ago, but abandoned my climb of An Caisteal in a thunderstorm. Today, I missed the path for An Caisteal and headed to the end of the valley towards Beinn a'Chroin instead. The top of the valley was pleasant in the sunshine, very green with babbling streams coming down from the upper corries and the two munros rising above. The path up Chroin was nice, steep initially, then weaving along a broad ridge to a forepeak which the path skirted. A little rocky section then leads up to another summit, which puzzlingly looked slightly lower than the forepeak: indeed, there are perhaps four distinct mini-peaks along the ridge. It seems this is a long-running controversy, which of the Chroin peaks is highest? It transpires that it is indeed the one I was on. I relaxed for a while, enjoying picking out the peaks in this region which are all distinctive and almost all of which I've done - Ben More, Cruach Ardrain, Ben Lui and the like. The descent to An Caisteal is surprisingly rocky and steep but I still enjoyed it, along with another rocky ascent up to the summit of An Caisteal, another munro. The long ridge back west over Sron Garbh was also excellent, superb views in front and up to Ben Nevis and the Mamores. I was a bit tired towards the bottom, which may have been the jab (all day I felt a little sluggish, perhaps 80%, and was certainly slower than usual: 3.06 for the round). I then had plenty of time for a river bath, the fish and chips in Tyndrum, before continuing to a car bivouac at Lochailort station.

Two Lads fell race

Race: Two Lads fell race (8k/362m)

Time/Position: 38.50 (26th from 126 [3rd V50])

The heart of Lancastrian fell running, but I've only raced once in this area before. That was the classic Rivington Pike a good few years ago, but Two Lads is also long established and was a great opportunity to do a race with my old colleague Ato, a Bolton local. It started to rain just before the start near a pub in town, and it stayed wet and very misty throughout, but this made it atmospheric and enjoyable. The race suited me well, just the sort of thing I like with runnable gradients throughout. Steep tarmac from Horwich led to a track which headed through dripping woodland to gain the open hill in typical Pennine conditions. Thick clag up to the top of the moor, and then a big loop over the hill of White Brow. After a fast road descent, the route doubled-back to take in the 'Two Lads' themselves (giant cairns on the edge of the moor, visible for miles). I was passed by two fast descenders but otherwise kept a decent pace ticking over. In fact, it was probably the best race of this week's trio, in terms of both performance and enjoyment, although the one I took least seriously (could only manage 3rd V50 in all three!). Ato and I retired for a superb dosa in a nearby south Indian cafe, an ideal post-race snack.

Great Orme

Race: Great Orme fell race (6.6km/400m)

Time/Position: 36.57 (19th from 75 [3rd V50])

One of those races I have never got around to doing, but it was a rare Welsh event to be given the green light this year. Beautiful sunny evening, superb clarity across the bay to the Little Orme as we set off from the bottom of Happy Valley after another climbing warm-up. The route climbs the steep tarmac, then the steps up to the top of the ski slope. It then turns left before heading directly past the tram station to the trig on the summit. Superb views north to the sea (which really was the deepest of blues this evening) as we headed along the tracks on top of the Orme. The race then cuts diagonally down the steep rocky path all the way down to Marine Drive for a tiny section of tarmac before climbing up again from the big houses up through some little crags (reminiscent of the Beast, this is extremely steep for a while). From here, undulations lead back to the tram tracks and a short climb back up to the summit trig. I had a good battle with some fellow vets throughout this section and then really enjoyed the fast run in back to the finish just above the ski slope. Way down the field, but this was partially perhaps a reflection of the strength of that field rather than a really terrible performance.

Castle Inn climbing

Crag: Castle Inn

Routes: Taid (f5:sec), Ffrind (f4:led), Cariad (f5:sec), Butterfly Blue (f4c:led), Wilderness Wall (f5b:sec), Route 1 (f5a:sec)

Just a short late afternoon workout on very easy routes before the evening's race, still with very little climbing strength at my disposal. We started off with the short routes on Taid's wall, but avoided Nain as it was obvious to me that robins were nesting in the hole at the bottom. We then moved round to the slabbier crag further right, very pleasant in the sunshine, before doing old favourite Route 1, which I've climbed regularly for over 30 years, scores of ascents. 

Colshaw Hall 10k

Race: Colshaw Hall 10k

Time/Position: 36.40 (35th from 700 [3rd V50])

Unlike Aintree last month, this felt much more like old times. Although there were 'waves' of starters, it was a proper race in the sense that you always had some idea of where you were in the field. All the more disappointing, then, that I couldn't find a faster time in my legs. I felt reasonably good for the first 5k but was conscious that again I seem to be hitting a kind of ceiling that I can't go beyond. It is tempting to blame this on age, but I'm not convinced this is more than a partial explanation, as I still can't find the motivation to return to any formal speedwork, and think that is a better reason (along with the usual slow gallivanting in the mountains). My PB days are over, of course, but I still want to go sub-36 again, at the very least. The race route was very pleasant, much better than Aintree's lap format, with a nice loop of the east Cheshire countryside from its start in Over Peover (near Knutsford) down to Jodrell Bank. Well organised too. I was ranked 21st V50 for 10k in the UK before this race but will be lower now: perhaps some formal speedwork is now in order! I have a couple more bites at the cherry to improve my ranking over the distance to come this year.

Idwal from Bethesda

With limited time, and the need to increase road speed after all the Scottish mountains, I parked in the middle of Bethesda and aimed to get to Idwal via the old road in a quickish time. The main Capel road climbs up to Ogwen Bank and then I took the old road in drizzle and low cloud. This is level for a while, and gives quick progress up to the beautiful upper reaches of Nant Ffrancon, where it really kicks up before veering left for Ogwen Cottage. I carried on up the path to Idwal in improving weather, did a full loop of the lake and then descending direct along the main Nant Ffrancon road back to Bethesda (25 mins from Ogwen Cottage, 1.32 for the full 20k loop).

Annandale Way

After Arkle, the weather improved considerably and I was tempted to go for something like Cul Mor given how far north I still was. In the end, however, I decided to camp in Ullapool which was always my intention. Arriving at the campsite, however, Covid policy reared its ugly head: it was pre-booking only despite my tiny tent. I checked the weather, preparing for a wild camp or boot bivouac, only to find that it was on the turn with rain forecast tomorrow morning. So I escaped all the way down to a Perth Travelodge, returning early, and decided to break my journey home in the Southern Uplands. Moffatt has long been a favourite stop for me, so it was nice to try a longer (23k) outing in the area. The Annandale Way seemed perfect - as it takes a big initial loop round to the north. It was wet and misty as I set off along the River Annan from Moffatt late morning, and it stayed wet and misty for the entire outing. After the river section, the route took a minor road (actually the old Edinburgh road) to a hamlet, and then began to climb gradually up to the Tweedmuir road. Across this and up Ericstane Hill, completely clagged in and still wet but still enjoyable. The descent went back down to the road and finally loops round the hills that fringe the Devil's Beef Tub. This is a celebrated feature of the Southern Uplands but I couldn't see a thing. There was a certain irony (or luck, depending on viewpoint) about the fact that the worst weather of the entire trip was here in these little southern hills, no more than 500m high. It got a bit rough along this section, with drops on the right down to the Beef Tub. It lasts a while, over a few mini summits (Fleckett Hill, Foal Burn Head?) but eventually descends south back towards Moffatt. Near a farm at the head of the valley, the cloud lifted just a little to enable me to discern the vague outline of the Devil's Beef Tub, but nothing more, then it was heads down on a tiring run-in to eventually rejoin the outward route above the Annan and back along the river.

Arkle

Peaks: Arkle

Area: Sutherland, Scotland

The shores of Loch Stack represents the furthest north we ever got on our Scottish family holidays when we headed to Handa in 2011. That day, I sprinted up Ben Stack. But the real prizes hereabouts are the superb quartzite peaks of Arkle and Foinaven (that gave their names to two famous racehorses). I woke early in Strabeg bothy after a memorable evening with a few drams of Tamnavulin watching the sun sink below Cranstackie, sauntering round the native woodland, taking a bath in the river. After breakfast of porridge and coffee I walked back to the car for a delightful drive around Loch Eriboll to Durness, all new territory for me. I explored the coastal Smoo Caves initially, walking down to the inner chamber. Then, after a bacon and egg sandwich from Sango Sands, a cheese pie, and a large coffee, I felt ready for more action. But the weather was not promising. I sat by the Cape Wrath ferry for a while, watching clouds lowering over Cranstackie, before trying my luck a little further south on the peaks I most wanted to do. It seemed a little more promising, so I turned off at Laxford Bridge for Loch Stack. I suppose I most wanted to do Foinaven but that is a big day out, and a combination of weather and tiredness meant I settled for Arkle instead. No matter, as Arkle is a wonderful mountain and very eye-catching from below with its white slopes of quartz. There is a long approach to all these peaks though, along the shores of Loch Stack to Lone, then up into the big valley of Strath Luib na Seilich. The onward route to Arkle was far from obvious, and I was rarely sure about it, but the navigation and route-finding was satisfying, and I got it bang on. I followed a little stream bed (Allt na Daig Mor) towards the top and emerged just below Meall Aonghais. The stream bed would have been a perfect handrail in mist, but it never came to that and I soon emerged at the southern summit of Arkle. This is a tremendous place, made even better by shower clouds tracking across the landscape to the south over familiar peaks like Suilven and Quinag. The views across to Foinaven over the empty valley containing Loch an Easain Uaine were even better - a wild landscape with a real feeling of remoteness, the white quartz rendering it quite unlike anything else in the UK. Needless to say, unlike Ben Hope there was nobody here. Ahead, a wonderful looking ridge - almost level - which proved very enjoyable. A steep descent led to a forepeak and then a great catwalk, like a limestone pavement, with a little mild scrambling, led to the summit cairn right at the very end. I really enjoyed this, the cloud was lifting and the views to the sea lochs below were tremendous. The books all suggest descending the same way, but instead I took the obvious direct SW descent down the dry valley between the two Arkle summits. This was a little arduous towards the bottom, but not bad, and far more interesting than retracing steps. I was in no rush, and sauntered down to the shores of Loch Stack (breeding dunlin), eventually picking up the track back to Lone. 

Ben Hope

Peaks: Ben Hope

Area: Sutherland, Scotland

The most northerly Munro, and a fairly obvious second objective today after doing Ben Loyal first thing. Both peaks were obvious from the Orkney ferry, and dominate the landscape along the northern coast of Sutherland. I expected to see a few more people on Ben Hope, given its fame (and the fact that it was a beautiful day) but given the length of the drive down a single track lane along Loch Hope I was still surprised by the numbers, shocked almost. In fact, it was so busy I decided I would despatch it quickly. The path is very obvious and goes up steep ground before cutting right to gain a very broad ridge, almost a bowl, that leads up to the summit. It takes a while to get there, past numerous false summits, and I only just broke the hour in the end. Superb views, even better than from Ben Loyal this morning. Most notable, the huge sea lochs, particularly Loch Eriboll, which I had yet to reach. The wild terrain over to Foinaven and Arkle (where I intended to stay the night) looked wonderful, and I picked out Ben More Assynt and Quinaig (both done in 2011) to the south. An easy jog back down, a second lunch, and then it was over to Loch Eriboll where I parked and headed to Strabeg bothy for a memorable evening alone in a wonderful location. 

Ben Loyal

Peaks: Sgor Chaonasaid, Sgor a'Bhatain, An Caisteal

Area: Ben Loyal, Sutherland

Often known as the 'Queen of Scottish Mountains', Ben Loyal is a superb looking miniature range from the vicinity of Tongue and became an essential outing as I drove from Thurso along the north coast after returning from Orkney. I briefly flirted with the idea of doing it in the evening, but instead slept in the car boot in Tongue after scampi and chips at the Ben Loyal hotel. Mist spilled over the rocky summits as I drank my coffee in the morning, but by the time I approached it via the track of Ribigill (just inland from Tongue) it began to peel away from the summits. The approach is easy but gets steep after the abandoned farmhouse of Cunside, and then very steep up towards the first - and most striking - peak. This is Sgor Cheonasaid, and it felt a bit of a slog until the ground levels out. I went to the true summit, which gave a short scramble. Superb views out to the Kyle of Tongue and the rest of the north coast, as well as across to Ben Hope and the Flow Country, all the way back to Morven in Caithness. The onward route to An Caisteal, the true summit, is grassy and easy (via another peak which proves to be nothing more than a spur) and I was surprised the trig came so soon. The day was improving all the time and I really should have continued the traverse. However, conscious of my plans for the rest of the day, I took a direct line back down instead, avoiding Chaonasaid and heading towards lonely Loch na Creige Riabhaich before descending past numerous calling cuckoos back to Ribigill. I got some basic provisions from the tiny shop in Tongue, then ate them at the Kyle of Tongue, a scenic lunch spot.

Orkney neolithic pootle

Another short Orkney outing on the world's heaviest bike. After a stupendous breakfast of sausages, bacon, haggis, black pudding and mushrooms, I could barely turn the pedals as I headed off to Skara Brae. This is one of Europe's most remarkable historic sites, and I thoroughly enjoyed my time before slowly pootling back for a lobster roll and a pint of Orkney Gold at the Ferry, Stromness, before sailing back to Scrabster in more perfect sunshine.

Orkney Brodgar cycle loop

An early start from Gaskbeg and an exciting drive north from Inverness along a road I've not been on since 1988! That was a charity hitch to John O'Groats, I have fragmentary memories of looking out to Orkney and watching goldeneye at Bonar Bridge, but I've never been back up this way. It is now branded as the North Coast 500 and, although this eastern side is less scenic than the west it is still very nice and Caithness is an interesting place culturally. I did a short jog from Loch Stemster and the Achavanich standing stones, primarily for the huge views out across the ecologically vital Flow Country. I also jogged along to Holbornhead from Scrabster after scotch pies in Thurso, then got the Stromness ferry, which was stunning as it passed the cliffs of Hoy and the Old Man. In Stromness, I hired a 'sit up an beg' bike, of a kind I've never ridden before. Extraordinarily heavy, given what I'm used to, and very tough on the hills. So that all made my first foray around Orkney harder than I'd expected. It was supposed to be a rest, and it was ultra relaxing and tranquil and enjoyable, but hard on the calves. I left my accommodation above Stromness and pootled along to the huge Stones of Stenness, then the quite stunning Ring of Brodgar, which I had to myself in extraordinarily atmospheric conditions. From Brodgar, I took the isthmus through this wonderful landscape (breeding curlew, lapwing in every single field) towards Skara Brae but turned off to Yesnaby Head. Stunning coastal views over the cliffs to the Atlantic, and down to Hoy. A horrible headwind made the return a trial, but after a takeaway chow mein (the only option), I felt a lot better and enjoyed the stunning evening light as the sun very gradually set.

Meall Chuaich

Peaks: Meall Chuaich

Area: Drumochter, Scotland

Although this is the kind of dull pudding I usually try to avoid, as with the rest of the hills around Drumochter it is actually quite enjoyable and lends itself to a mild running approach. It is also something of a landmark, visible for miles around as it is quite isolated: it is particularly obvious from the north. It was the only choice this afternoon, as I had dropped the family off in Pitlochry station then headed back north after lunch. The route begins from the A9 near Dalwhinnie and follows a long track east to Loch Cuaich. From here, the path blazes an obvious trail directly up the broad SW ridge. I was feeling surprisingly good and really enjoyed it, although as the ridge levels off the dome-like summit becomes a bit tedious with the summit cairn a long way off, meaning I failed to break the hour. Good distant views, given the isolated location, over the Cairngorms (Tuesdays hills in particular) and across to Meagaidh and Ben Alder in the opposite direction (as well as across to Laggan and our cottage). I varied the descent by dropping straight into the little dry valley to the west. This was great initially, on springy turf, but led to a horrendously steep drop-off which had me lowering down heather and little waterfalls until I finally got to the lakeside. Tired for the return along the track, which was a tad tedious as a result. Cloudy but clear throughout.

Easains

Peaks: Stob a'Coire Mheadhoin, Stob Coire Easain

Area: Central Highlands

These two peaks are very noticeable 'twins' close to the Grey Corries and the hills of the Tranter Round, which gave us a memorable long day out in 2012. Easain, in particular, is a fine peak. My guidebook was a tad misleading, directing me up a very confusing route from the little lake above the hamlet Fersit, which sits in a very central position not far from Spean Bridge. I struggled to find the route initially (because I was in the wrong starting point) moving to and fro until finally following my nose up the broad ridge which ultimately leads all the way to the summit. I gained a path, and then excellent open ground below the steep nose of Meall Cian Dearg. Superb views across to the Grey Corries: Stob Coire Claurigh is a particularly impressive mountain I remembered well from 2012, mist flirted with its snowy summit as I climbed up. I took the steep nose by a contouring and completely pathless line to the west, another stupid error on a day of daft errors. This was far harder than it should have been and meant I had to plot a route on instinct to eventually regain the upper ridge below a false summit of Mheadhoin. The wind up here was fierce, the worst of the trip and yet again an example of the current weather pattern which does not reward early starts! In some of the cols, the wind made progress difficult as it whipped in from the west. Great views down to Loch Treig, across to Chno Dearg and the peaks I did on Sunday. From the summit of Mheadhoin, a longish descent leads to a sharp col then a steep (and very windy) ascent to Easain, with even better views but even stronger winds. Then comes a tiring reascent of Mheadhoin and a delightful descent, on route this time, down the ridge with superb views of the Central Highlands. I took the nose direct this time, enjoying some mild scrambling, far easier than my contouring variation to the west! I dropped east (via a drink and break at a stream) as soon as I could to the lakeside of Loch Treig, which sits in a tight valley and is quite impressive, although dammed. Around 1400m of ascent, so a fairly tiring pre-breakfast outing.

Dun da Lamh

After a delightful day trip to Glenfinnan in the best weather of the week, I felt a mini-speed session was in order to try to retain a semblance of race fitness after all the usual mountain activity. My ankle was recovering slightly, and I felt the need to test it. The solution was a pre-dinner blast from Laggan Wolftracks up to the Pictish hillfort of Dun da Lamh - up in 16 minutes (3.14km/200m), down in 15 (a course record, surprisingly).

Cairngorms West

Peaks: Sgor Gaoith, Sgoran Dubh Mor, Meall Bhuidhe

Area: Cairngorms, Scotland

My first time back in the Cairngorms proper since doing the 4000s in 2017. It's a wonderful area, unique in the UK: for me, what makes it unique is the contrast between the pastoral lower valleys like the Spey, with all the native woodland and beautiful lakes, and the savage plateau, with its secrets hidden to the casual observer. You really have to penetrate the range to get to grips with it, and there's always a touch of seriousness to it (I well remember getting lost on Bynack More in November 1991, a salutary experience which taught me crucial lessons). I'd never been in Glen Feshie before, and after our family walk yesterday headed straight up again and parked near Lagganlia. I took a running approach today, feeling quite good in cool, cloudy and windy conditions. Beautiful caledonian pines gain height comfortably before a distinct treeline leads to the open valley of Coire Rhuadh containing the Allt a'Chroim Alltain. It was my intention to do a horseshoe of this, and I made good progress as the ground steepened and took on the Arctic tundra look so characteristic of the Cairngorms. It became very windy and really quite cold (it was very early, before 8am, and the weather pattern had been to improve throughout the day). A little light mist flirted with the plateau, and I put layers on to emerge on the broad ridge itself. Here, views open out over Braeriach and Cairn Toul. I continued running, and made the top of Sgor Gaoith in around an hour from Glen Feshie. The top is a mini pyramid of rock, and gives an astonishing view straight down to Loch Einaich and across to the still snowy slopes of Braeriach, although mist draped the higher tops. I jogged across to Sgoran Dubh Mor, notable in views of the Cairngorms from the north, and then across the scoured tundra to a broad col and up over Meall Bhuidhe. I continued down the obvious broad spur, staying high with hazy views down to Glen Feshie, Loch Insh and the Spey, and the wind dropped. It was quite a simple matter to complete the mini horseshoe and regain the approach path just above the treeline where I drank from a lovely stream (2.25 for 15k/1000m). On returning to the car, I noticed my ankle, calf and wrist swelling up and it got a tad uncomfortable for a while, especially as we walked round Insh Marshes in the afternoon.