Area: Glenfinnan, Scotland
Earlier this month, we made a family trip to Glenfinnan in perfect weather. I'd never been before, and although I was aware of the area's mountains I don't think I had realised quite how appealing (and numerous) they were. So it seemed a logical decision to head back there with the promising western forecast. This circuit was an obvious starting point, and it gave a superb outing in stunning conditions. I woke in Lochailort to low cloud, which seemed to contain the obvious potential for a cloud inversion. So I drove to Glenfinnan and then cycled up the metalled road most of the way to the Corriehully bothy in the early morning under a blanket of very low cloud. After a chat with the landowner, I entered the bothy for a second nap. It is one of the best bothies in Scotland, the fabled 'electric bothy', the only one with lights and a kettle as far as I'm aware. Excitement soon got the better of me and I started out up the top of the Glenfinnan valley in the direction of Sgurr Thuilm, which poked through the thick mist at one point. I was fairly convinced that the summits would be clear of the mist so pelted up the stalkers path towards Sgurr nan Coireachan, straight into thick mist. This ascent was really enjoyable as it weaved up the ridge through the mist and soon a little patch of blue appeared above. Within a few minutes I broke through to crystal blue skies and a sea of cloud. These moments are always absolutely magical: I've been lucky enough to experience a few cloud inversions over the decades but this was very special. A sort of plinth was poised above the Glenfinnan valley and a thick white blanket stretched out south and west, with all the high peaks poking through. The route goes first up a forepeak before a sharp climb leads to a complex section of rock and little pools (all the time with stunning views above the clouds on all sides) until the final push to the top of Sgurr nan Coireachan. The view was predictably magnificent: the cloud inversion was dissipating to the east, while to the west a blanket of cloud but with the Knoydart peaks, Rum and Moidart resplendent above - all of which I would visit later in the week. The sharp Sgurr na Ciche is particularly notable, bringing back memories of my ascent in wet snow, April 1998. Next came the surprisingly long ridge over to Sgurr Thuilm. This took far longer than I'd expected, over two sizeable subsidiary summits with a few rocky sections, and it was a long haul up to the main summit of Thuilm. Quite tiring, so I stopped for a while on the summit, gazing down the empty valleys and Loch Morar to the north. The descent, down the long SW ridge, was superb - looking directly down Glenfinnan to the viaduct far below - the beautiful green upper valley had native woodland on its lower slopes. Dehydrated, I was glad to get to the stream, and glad to reach the easy track back to the bothy and my bike as it was very hot by now. An easy bike ride back to Glenfinnan for the ultimate contrast, hundreds of immaculate tourists (but also a nice lunch and cold drinks).
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