An early start from Gaskbeg and an exciting drive north from Inverness along a road I've not been on since 1988! That was a charity hitch to John O'Groats, I have fragmentary memories of looking out to Orkney and watching goldeneye at Bonar Bridge, but I've never been back up this way. It is now branded as the North Coast 500 and, although this eastern side is less scenic than the west it is still very nice and Caithness is an interesting place culturally. I did a short jog from Loch Stemster and the Achavanich standing stones, primarily for the huge views out across the ecologically vital Flow Country. I also jogged along to Holbornhead from Scrabster after scotch pies in Thurso, then got the Stromness ferry, which was stunning as it passed the cliffs of Hoy and the Old Man. In Stromness, I hired a 'sit up an beg' bike, of a kind I've never ridden before. Extraordinarily heavy, given what I'm used to, and very tough on the hills. So that all made my first foray around Orkney harder than I'd expected. It was supposed to be a rest, and it was ultra relaxing and tranquil and enjoyable, but hard on the calves. I left my accommodation above Stromness and pootled along to the huge Stones of Stenness, then the quite stunning Ring of Brodgar, which I had to myself in extraordinarily atmospheric conditions. From Brodgar, I took the isthmus through this wonderful landscape (breeding curlew, lapwing in every single field) towards Skara Brae but turned off to Yesnaby Head. Stunning coastal views over the cliffs to the Atlantic, and down to Hoy. A horrible headwind made the return a trial, but after a takeaway chow mein (the only option), I felt a lot better and enjoyed the stunning evening light as the sun very gradually set.
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