Arkle

Peaks: Arkle

Area: Sutherland, Scotland

The shores of Loch Stack represents the furthest north we ever got on our Scottish family holidays when we headed to Handa in 2011. That day, I sprinted up Ben Stack. But the real prizes hereabouts are the superb quartzite peaks of Arkle and Foinaven (that gave their names to two famous racehorses). I woke early in Strabeg bothy after a memorable evening with a few drams of Tamnavulin watching the sun sink below Cranstackie, sauntering round the native woodland, taking a bath in the river. After breakfast of porridge and coffee I walked back to the car for a delightful drive around Loch Eriboll to Durness, all new territory for me. I explored the coastal Smoo Caves initially, walking down to the inner chamber. Then, after a bacon and egg sandwich from Sango Sands, a cheese pie, and a large coffee, I felt ready for more action. But the weather was not promising. I sat by the Cape Wrath ferry for a while, watching clouds lowering over Cranstackie, before trying my luck a little further south on the peaks I most wanted to do. It seemed a little more promising, so I turned off at Laxford Bridge for Loch Stack. I suppose I most wanted to do Foinaven but that is a big day out, and a combination of weather and tiredness meant I settled for Arkle instead. No matter, as Arkle is a wonderful mountain and very eye-catching from below with its white slopes of quartz. There is a long approach to all these peaks though, along the shores of Loch Stack to Lone, then up into the big valley of Strath Luib na Seilich. The onward route to Arkle was far from obvious, and I was rarely sure about it, but the navigation and route-finding was satisfying, and I got it bang on. I followed a little stream bed (Allt na Daig Mor) towards the top and emerged just below Meall Aonghais. The stream bed would have been a perfect handrail in mist, but it never came to that and I soon emerged at the southern summit of Arkle. This is a tremendous place, made even better by shower clouds tracking across the landscape to the south over familiar peaks like Suilven and Quinag. The views across to Foinaven over the empty valley containing Loch an Easain Uaine were even better - a wild landscape with a real feeling of remoteness, the white quartz rendering it quite unlike anything else in the UK. Needless to say, unlike Ben Hope there was nobody here. Ahead, a wonderful looking ridge - almost level - which proved very enjoyable. A steep descent led to a forepeak and then a great catwalk, like a limestone pavement, with a little mild scrambling, led to the summit cairn right at the very end. I really enjoyed this, the cloud was lifting and the views to the sea lochs below were tremendous. The books all suggest descending the same way, but instead I took the obvious direct SW descent down the dry valley between the two Arkle summits. This was a little arduous towards the bottom, but not bad, and far more interesting than retracing steps. I was in no rush, and sauntered down to the shores of Loch Stack (breeding dunlin), eventually picking up the track back to Lone.