Peaks: El Teide (3715m)Area: Teide, Tenerife
I can think of very few parallels to Teide. I first saw it from a plane, flying back from the Gambia in 2018. It utterly dominates its landscape in a way few other peaks can match. That first view impressed me so much that a few months later (February 2019) I was on Tenerife to climb it (having long ago done Mulhacen, the highest peak on mainland Spain, along with many other iconic and notable Spanish mountains!). That day, I'd set out in sleet which turned into an extraordinary blizzard and I ended up retreating from below the refuge. I really wanted to put that right, so reserved a summit permit months ago (they are free but have to be booked months in advance to prevent all the cable car types from wandering up to the top). I left Vilaflor at 6.30am, stopping at Las Canadas to experience the night skies before sunrise - stunning, although a very bright full moon. I parked at the same place as last time below Montana Blanca and set out with glimmers of light and the sky glowing to the east. After 15 minutes light jogging, the sun rose casting a stunning glow and illuminating the entire mountain - deep orange and ochre shades of pumice. A ranger checked my permit before I'd even started up the steeper slopes. At Montana Blanca, the track gives way to a zigzag path above the Teide eggs (accretion balls). This is where the blizzard really worsened six years ago. It is relentlessly steep all the way to the Altavista refuge, and my decision then was vindicated by the fact that the zigzags get vague and indistinct towards the top before coalescing again just below the hut. It is also a very steep and relentless haul with awkward lava shelves in places. I reached the Altavista in 90 minutes or so, which isn't bad considering the vertical interval with the altitude now starting to really kick in. This meant the next section through the lava fields to the final summit cone was much slower and harder than it would normally have been. It is known as La Rambleta and it weaves through the lava, less steeply than the lower section to the hut but still fairly draining. Then comes a level section below the summit cone during which I encountered tourists for the first time. I arrived at the little hut controlling access to the summit bang on my ETA just after 9am, a little under two hours from the car - all worked fine although I had to show my passport! And then it was up the final route, Teleforo Bravo to the true summit at 3715m. At this altitude, physical effort really does become noticeably harder and it has been a few years since I was up this high. Still, I got to the true summit in around 2:20 from the road, which is respectable enough. As expected, the views were of the 'helicopter variety' which is always what happens when one peak completely dominates - in some ways the views from the much lower peaks across Las Canadas to Teide are more impressive. But that said, Teide is so high and isolated that the views are just immense. I could see El Hierro beyond La Gomera, as well as La Palma beyond the southern coast. And of course Gran Canaria shimmering across the Atlantic. Closer, the Anaga peninsular was something to look forward to on Saturday. The entire island was visible like a 3D map and the ambience was superb. I also had the top to myself although two Czechs arrived quite quickly. Sulphur clouds and odour reminded me that this is not entirely dormant, although nothing compared to the steaming fumaroles and explosions of Etna or Ijen or Iceland - all three of which I have recent volcanic experience in! After a small snack (no breakfast) I trotted down, breaking into a run as the air got thicker lower down: 3.35 for the entire trip compared to the standard time of 9-10 hours, back by midday to meet Kate in El Tejar. I was, I admit, tired on our subsequent Vilaflor hillwalk!