Crag: Vivian Quarry, Llanberis Slate
Routes: Mental Lentils (HVS 5b:led)
Crag: Sticky Mix Wall, Lighthouse Crags, Great Orme
Routes: Sundowner (f6a:led), Woo Woo (f6a+:sec), Black Orchid (f6a+:sec), Black Iris (f6b:sec), New Route (f5+:led)
The classic rain-affected Welsh climbing day: always requires a bit of creative thinking and local knowledge to get things done. A positive forecast initially lured us to Vivian Quarry, thinking we could salvage something on quick-drying slate between the showers. But, contrary to the forecast, the rain started as soon as we arrived. It stayed light momentarily, so I set off up Mental Lentils, the trade route of the crag, in something of a hurry - as a large black cloud threatened heavier rain. The start was greasy and it began raining again immediately. A few flat holds lead to a traverse left to a tiny nut placement. Then rather worrying moves on wet slate to gain the first bolt. The rain began to get a tad heavier, so I sprinted up the fine crack which gives a superb friend placement. At the second bolt, a brief crux move (didn't feel like 5b) on small holds gains the lower-off just before the entire slab was soaked by heavier rain: up in less than five minutes! Nice route, easy for the grade as is often the case on slate. Andy and Hayley seconded the route in the wet, then we prudently retreated from Psychotherapy as the rain drenched everything: headed straight to the Orme in search of dry rock. The Sticky Mix wall, unaffected by summer access problems, seemed a sensible choice and so it was, despite a few more light showers and a cold northerly wind blowing straight into the face. It is a wonderful place to climb, wild and remote feeling despite its proximity to Llandudno, poised directly above the sea with great views of Ynys Mon: we'd reccied it a few weeks ago and I was very keen to get on the newly bolted routes. I began by leading Sundowner, which takes the blunt 'arete' on the left of the crag in an excellent position. A few steep moves at the start form an early crux: but the rock is rough and the holds good. It eases off after the third bolt, moving between breaks to gain a steep but very juggy and rough layback crack. A tricky finishing move completes the route, which gets quite exposed higher up. In the wind and drizzle today, above a dark green sea, it gave a fine climbing experience. Its companion route goes more easily up juggy rock to a similar layback crack higher up: but this time the crack is closed, less positive and harder to read. Half a grade harder but another nice route. Much further right, Andy then led Black Orchid at f6a+. This was on rather crumbly rock and was surprisingly sustained: harder than it looks from below with far fewer rests than might be expected from the number of horizontal breaks. Black Iris, to the left, takes a more natural line up a vague groove. It goes easily up steep juggy cracks to a baffling crux up a steep miniature slab. Again, much more pumpy and sustained than it looks. With forearm strength fading, I stepped on the bolt at the top of this crux section. Nice climbing again though, rough limestone, juggy and steep. We even had a bit of sunshine on this route. For a finale, I led a newly bolted route next to the approach gully. No details about it, but it went at about f5+ and was very pleasant. It was a lot slabbier than the Sticky Mix routes, apart from a few steepish moves up the initial wall. This gains a smooth slab but some excellent holds appear just when you need them. Good flakey jugs, reminiscent of St Victoire or Orpierre in places. At the top, a steeper undercut move gains the lower-off. Nice route, whatever it was, and a pleasant way to warm down after the steeper stuff further left.
Friday, July 31, 2015
Saturday, July 25, 2015
Lingmell Dash fell race
Race: Lingmell Dash (British and English Championship)
Peaks: Lingmell, Wasdale, Lake District
Time/Position: 56.51 (77th from 137)
It seemed like a good idea to extend this British Championship fell race by walking in to the start over Eskdale Moor past Burnmoor Tarn, over five miles and 800ft of climbing. Clearly inspired by our 'value for money' approach to last Wednesday's race, it worked well but was obviously rather tiring, especially after a morning climbing on Hare Crag. The weather remained glorious, although some high cloud pushed in as we started walking from the lovely village of Boot in Eskdale. An old bridleway winds up the hillside to the open moor, gaining height easily. Then, a long trudge across to eventually gain Burnmoor Tarn. Soon, views open out to Wasdale and familiar hills become visible (albeit from an unfamiliar angle). Yewbarrow was directly ahead, Great Gable further right and, soon, Lingmell appeared below Scafell. A long descent above Wastwater led down to the valley and an even longer walk to pick up our numbers near the pub. There was just time for a coffee at the famous Ritson's Bar before the race started. I've done a few British Championship races over the years and they are always characterised by a quality field. There is no let up, and the pace was relentless for the dash from the pub, along Wasdale to pick up the main Brown Tongue path briefly, then streams of runners branched off for the direct route up the hillside to pick up the 'Shoulder' - the obvious ridge coming down from the summit of Lingmell. This gives an absolutely brutal climb, very steep for several hundred metres. I used my hands wherever possible and made reasonable progress, although Vic stayed in front of me until the ridge eased off higher up and became runnable. I picked up quite a few places here, good views to the right over Scafell and Scafell Pike. Over an old wall, then a brief rocky section before rounding the summit cairn in 39.30. I gashed my shin on the summit rocks and took a while to get going on the descent. I lost a couple of places on the initial section, but then held my place reasonably well over the grassy plateau then the exceptionally steep and sustained descent of the Shoulder. Very punishing on the quads. A bit of scree suited me, but I was relieved to pick up the main path lower down (sunny and almost hot now). An excellent sprint back to the finish near the pub. Satisfying to break the hour, and the race reminded me of Moel Siabod in this (and many other) respects. As ever, the field was ludicrously strong: I'm not sure I have ever finished in the top 40 in a British Champs race (41st is my best ever!). This was also an English Champs counter, so the field was even stronger. After a few cups of squash and a bite to eat, relaxing and enjoying glorious sunshine, we headed back to Eskdale. The crux comes immediately: the steep climb from the shores of Wastwater up to the plateau below Illgill Head. Steady progress in warm sunshine past Burnmoor Tarn, superb clarity of light that got better as the day wore on. Beautiful descent through woodland to Boot: at least 16 miles in total.
Peaks: Lingmell, Wasdale, Lake District
Time/Position: 56.51 (77th from 137)
It seemed like a good idea to extend this British Championship fell race by walking in to the start over Eskdale Moor past Burnmoor Tarn, over five miles and 800ft of climbing. Clearly inspired by our 'value for money' approach to last Wednesday's race, it worked well but was obviously rather tiring, especially after a morning climbing on Hare Crag. The weather remained glorious, although some high cloud pushed in as we started walking from the lovely village of Boot in Eskdale. An old bridleway winds up the hillside to the open moor, gaining height easily. Then, a long trudge across to eventually gain Burnmoor Tarn. Soon, views open out to Wasdale and familiar hills become visible (albeit from an unfamiliar angle). Yewbarrow was directly ahead, Great Gable further right and, soon, Lingmell appeared below Scafell. A long descent above Wastwater led down to the valley and an even longer walk to pick up our numbers near the pub. There was just time for a coffee at the famous Ritson's Bar before the race started. I've done a few British Championship races over the years and they are always characterised by a quality field. There is no let up, and the pace was relentless for the dash from the pub, along Wasdale to pick up the main Brown Tongue path briefly, then streams of runners branched off for the direct route up the hillside to pick up the 'Shoulder' - the obvious ridge coming down from the summit of Lingmell. This gives an absolutely brutal climb, very steep for several hundred metres. I used my hands wherever possible and made reasonable progress, although Vic stayed in front of me until the ridge eased off higher up and became runnable. I picked up quite a few places here, good views to the right over Scafell and Scafell Pike. Over an old wall, then a brief rocky section before rounding the summit cairn in 39.30. I gashed my shin on the summit rocks and took a while to get going on the descent. I lost a couple of places on the initial section, but then held my place reasonably well over the grassy plateau then the exceptionally steep and sustained descent of the Shoulder. Very punishing on the quads. A bit of scree suited me, but I was relieved to pick up the main path lower down (sunny and almost hot now). An excellent sprint back to the finish near the pub. Satisfying to break the hour, and the race reminded me of Moel Siabod in this (and many other) respects. As ever, the field was ludicrously strong: I'm not sure I have ever finished in the top 40 in a British Champs race (41st is my best ever!). This was also an English Champs counter, so the field was even stronger. After a few cups of squash and a bite to eat, relaxing and enjoying glorious sunshine, we headed back to Eskdale. The crux comes immediately: the steep climb from the shores of Wastwater up to the plateau below Illgill Head. Steady progress in warm sunshine past Burnmoor Tarn, superb clarity of light that got better as the day wore on. Beautiful descent through woodland to Boot: at least 16 miles in total.
Eskdale climbing
Crag: Hare Crag, Eskdale, Lake District
Routes: Celebration (MVS 4b:sol), The Rib (D:des), Easy Slab (VD:sol), Fireball XL5 (MVS 4b:led), Jugged Hare (MVS 4b:sec), Slab Route (S:led)
After a night in the superbly positioned Eskdale youth hostel and a cooked breakfast, we ambled up the path through chest-high ferns to this crag: just a few minutes walk in beautiful early morning sunshine. Our plans for the day were ambitious and required precise timing: two or three hours climbing (so we had to move fast to tick the crag and sample the three distinct buttresses so obvious from the hostel grounds), then a long walk from Eskdale to Wasdale, then the Lingmell Dash British Championship fell race, then a long walk back to Eskdale for the long drive home! This, the first part, went very well. We headed for the obvious triangular slab for a delightful solo warm-up on three easy routes. First, Celebration: theoretically VS 4b but only because of the lack of gear. Nicely delicate slab climbing on superb and surprisingly unpolished rock. I traversed across to the Rib on the left of the slab and descended this back to the base. Continuous movement on rock first thing in the morning: lovely! A bit further right, Easy Slab was as described, a splendid easy romp up to the apex of the slab on better holds than Celebration. From here, we moved round to the central crag where I led the mild VS of Fireball XL5. This was short but very varied and enjoyable, again on surprisingly unpolished rock. A lovely crack up the left side of a big flake leads to its tip. From here, a distinct crux move up a steep crack leads to a slabby corner above. This is still interesting though. Conscious of the time, we moved immediately across to the final lefthand buttress, where Vic led Jugged Hare at the same grade. This had a bold start up a slab, and a lovely upper wall which took a delicious flake crack which begged to be climbed. Satisfying, simple laybacking. If it went on for 50 metres it would be a famous classic! After descending, I had a few minutes to sprint up Slab Route, a rather bold but very easy Severe covering a large amount of the crag, which takes a curving crack line diagonally right up the upper slabs to gain a small ledge. Then fluted rough cracks give a welcome friend placement and juggy finish. After two hours of pleasure, it was now time for the pain, so we walked back to the hostel past singing yellowhammers, still in glorious sunshine, and drove to the nearby village of Boot for the walk-in to Wasdale.
Routes: Celebration (MVS 4b:sol), The Rib (D:des), Easy Slab (VD:sol), Fireball XL5 (MVS 4b:led), Jugged Hare (MVS 4b:sec), Slab Route (S:led)
After a night in the superbly positioned Eskdale youth hostel and a cooked breakfast, we ambled up the path through chest-high ferns to this crag: just a few minutes walk in beautiful early morning sunshine. Our plans for the day were ambitious and required precise timing: two or three hours climbing (so we had to move fast to tick the crag and sample the three distinct buttresses so obvious from the hostel grounds), then a long walk from Eskdale to Wasdale, then the Lingmell Dash British Championship fell race, then a long walk back to Eskdale for the long drive home! This, the first part, went very well. We headed for the obvious triangular slab for a delightful solo warm-up on three easy routes. First, Celebration: theoretically VS 4b but only because of the lack of gear. Nicely delicate slab climbing on superb and surprisingly unpolished rock. I traversed across to the Rib on the left of the slab and descended this back to the base. Continuous movement on rock first thing in the morning: lovely! A bit further right, Easy Slab was as described, a splendid easy romp up to the apex of the slab on better holds than Celebration. From here, we moved round to the central crag where I led the mild VS of Fireball XL5. This was short but very varied and enjoyable, again on surprisingly unpolished rock. A lovely crack up the left side of a big flake leads to its tip. From here, a distinct crux move up a steep crack leads to a slabby corner above. This is still interesting though. Conscious of the time, we moved immediately across to the final lefthand buttress, where Vic led Jugged Hare at the same grade. This had a bold start up a slab, and a lovely upper wall which took a delicious flake crack which begged to be climbed. Satisfying, simple laybacking. If it went on for 50 metres it would be a famous classic! After descending, I had a few minutes to sprint up Slab Route, a rather bold but very easy Severe covering a large amount of the crag, which takes a curving crack line diagonally right up the upper slabs to gain a small ledge. Then fluted rough cracks give a welcome friend placement and juggy finish. After two hours of pleasure, it was now time for the pain, so we walked back to the hostel past singing yellowhammers, still in glorious sunshine, and drove to the nearby village of Boot for the walk-in to Wasdale.
Friday, July 24, 2015
Wallowbarrow climbing
Crag: Wallowbarrow, Duddon Valley, Lake District
Routes: Thomas (S 4a,4a:led p.1,2), Malediction p.1 (VD:led), The Plum (VS 4c:sec), Digitation (MVS 4b,4b:led p.1)
There aren't many crags 15 minutes walk from a road that are as quiet as this. Then again, there aren't many areas quite as exquisite and tucked away as the Duddon Valley, perhaps the finest corner of Lakeland. I'd only been here once before, during the Saunders Mountain Marathon in 2009, when the overnight camp was at Turner Farm and I gazed down on Wallowbarrow from my tent. We were en route to the YHA in Eskdale before tomorrow's fell race in Wasdale, so this seemed a logical choice of crag to stop off at for a few late routes, particularly as it is so difficult to access from the south and we were virtually passing it. Its low grade climbs seemed ideal as there were plenty of showers passing over as we enjoyed coffee and tea loaf in Broughton. Although it was late in the day, we did the 'long' walk-in from Seathwaite church, quite delightful, through oak woodland and across the river Duddon to Wallowbarrow farm and a little track to the base of the crag. The low-grade classic of the crag is Thomas, a three-pitch Severe taking a distinct central rib between the two main buttresses. I led up the first pitch in very light drizzle, planning to merge it with pitch two. This gave a wonderfully relaxed and lengthy 40 metre pitch. A crack led to easy angled climbing up an inclining wall to the normal belay ledge. Above, the route steepens and gives some lovely climbing up the front of the rib. The rain fell more steadily as I brought Vic up, and he led a short final pitch up a series of enjoyable grooves. A lovely route. After descending, I led up the easy broken ridge (p.1 of Malediction, just a scramble really) which gives access to three or four classic VS routes on the left of the crag. Vic went for The Plum at VS 4c, another good route which traverses right to juggy climbing up a steep slab, which gets steeper at a hanging flake and chimney groove. This gives a few interesting and quite steep moves, although there is never any need for thrutching, the solutions are always there. Perhaps the most obvious line on the crag, and very enjoyable again. After a bite to eat, we moved round to the eastern buttress, where the clean slab of Digitation inevitably attracts the attention. I couldn't resist, so led up the three perched blocks to gain some delectable slabby climbing up to a short corner. This gives a superb nut placement before delicate climbing leads to a horizontal break before a crux pull over a little overlap. Slabs lead to a big stance which breaks the route up a bit, but a nice steep crack kept things varied for Vic's second pitch before we jogged down to the car and drove round to Eskdale for a meal at the YHA and a couple of pints at the Woolpack. Lovely venue, beautiful location: all routes flowed very quickly, a very satisfying couple of hours work.
Routes: Thomas (S 4a,4a:led p.1,2), Malediction p.1 (VD:led), The Plum (VS 4c:sec), Digitation (MVS 4b,4b:led p.1)
There aren't many crags 15 minutes walk from a road that are as quiet as this. Then again, there aren't many areas quite as exquisite and tucked away as the Duddon Valley, perhaps the finest corner of Lakeland. I'd only been here once before, during the Saunders Mountain Marathon in 2009, when the overnight camp was at Turner Farm and I gazed down on Wallowbarrow from my tent. We were en route to the YHA in Eskdale before tomorrow's fell race in Wasdale, so this seemed a logical choice of crag to stop off at for a few late routes, particularly as it is so difficult to access from the south and we were virtually passing it. Its low grade climbs seemed ideal as there were plenty of showers passing over as we enjoyed coffee and tea loaf in Broughton. Although it was late in the day, we did the 'long' walk-in from Seathwaite church, quite delightful, through oak woodland and across the river Duddon to Wallowbarrow farm and a little track to the base of the crag. The low-grade classic of the crag is Thomas, a three-pitch Severe taking a distinct central rib between the two main buttresses. I led up the first pitch in very light drizzle, planning to merge it with pitch two. This gave a wonderfully relaxed and lengthy 40 metre pitch. A crack led to easy angled climbing up an inclining wall to the normal belay ledge. Above, the route steepens and gives some lovely climbing up the front of the rib. The rain fell more steadily as I brought Vic up, and he led a short final pitch up a series of enjoyable grooves. A lovely route. After descending, I led up the easy broken ridge (p.1 of Malediction, just a scramble really) which gives access to three or four classic VS routes on the left of the crag. Vic went for The Plum at VS 4c, another good route which traverses right to juggy climbing up a steep slab, which gets steeper at a hanging flake and chimney groove. This gives a few interesting and quite steep moves, although there is never any need for thrutching, the solutions are always there. Perhaps the most obvious line on the crag, and very enjoyable again. After a bite to eat, we moved round to the eastern buttress, where the clean slab of Digitation inevitably attracts the attention. I couldn't resist, so led up the three perched blocks to gain some delectable slabby climbing up to a short corner. This gives a superb nut placement before delicate climbing leads to a horizontal break before a crux pull over a little overlap. Slabs lead to a big stance which breaks the route up a bit, but a nice steep crack kept things varied for Vic's second pitch before we jogged down to the car and drove round to Eskdale for a meal at the YHA and a couple of pints at the Woolpack. Lovely venue, beautiful location: all routes flowed very quickly, a very satisfying couple of hours work.
Wednesday, July 22, 2015
Green Grass fell race
Race: Green Grass of Home fell race (5m/1500ft)
Time/Position: 43.15 (6th from 79 [3rd V40])
A completely new route for this race, the third in the summer evening series. It's not one I've been able to do very often over the years, as I'm generally away on holiday. Having not done much since returning from Morocco with a dose of delhi belly, I asked Jez if he fancied tripling the mileage by running over to the start from Cilcain. He liked the idea, so we jogged over the old drover's road to the top of the Clwydian ridge, then past the start and down to the Goldie in Llangynhafal to register. The new route was really excellent, very runnable, and I actually enjoyed myself for a change. It went back up the track towards the ridge, then steeply up to gain the Clwydian Hills climb - which in descent is a fast and exhilarating treat. I passed four runners on this descent, unusual for me, and found myself in sixth place as we then climbed out of the hidden valley to the north. Overgrown in places but a very obscure part of the range and good fun. This was a long climb, and it emerged on the main OD ridge path. Superb running along here in perfect conditions: some evening sunshine and a cool breeze. The route branched off towards Cilcain (that is, the way Jez and I had just run over) and then along the narrow path towards Famau and Pwll y Rhos. Then back over Moel Dywyll to a hard and tussocky descent. My ankle gave way almost immediately and my old shoes (with toe flaps hanging off) continually tripped over the thick heather. I ended up on my back twice! Lost loads of ground and could hear runners gaining on me. Luckily, I just held them off before gaining the main track and pelting down this to the finish. Got the first V40 prize but only by default. After prize giving and a pint, we ran back over the ridge to Cilcain as darkness fell.
Time/Position: 43.15 (6th from 79 [3rd V40])
A completely new route for this race, the third in the summer evening series. It's not one I've been able to do very often over the years, as I'm generally away on holiday. Having not done much since returning from Morocco with a dose of delhi belly, I asked Jez if he fancied tripling the mileage by running over to the start from Cilcain. He liked the idea, so we jogged over the old drover's road to the top of the Clwydian ridge, then past the start and down to the Goldie in Llangynhafal to register. The new route was really excellent, very runnable, and I actually enjoyed myself for a change. It went back up the track towards the ridge, then steeply up to gain the Clwydian Hills climb - which in descent is a fast and exhilarating treat. I passed four runners on this descent, unusual for me, and found myself in sixth place as we then climbed out of the hidden valley to the north. Overgrown in places but a very obscure part of the range and good fun. This was a long climb, and it emerged on the main OD ridge path. Superb running along here in perfect conditions: some evening sunshine and a cool breeze. The route branched off towards Cilcain (that is, the way Jez and I had just run over) and then along the narrow path towards Famau and Pwll y Rhos. Then back over Moel Dywyll to a hard and tussocky descent. My ankle gave way almost immediately and my old shoes (with toe flaps hanging off) continually tripped over the thick heather. I ended up on my back twice! Lost loads of ground and could hear runners gaining on me. Luckily, I just held them off before gaining the main track and pelting down this to the finish. Got the first V40 prize but only by default. After prize giving and a pint, we ran back over the ridge to Cilcain as darkness fell.
Tuesday, July 14, 2015
Ouanoukrim circuit
Peaks: Ras (4083m/13,396ft), Timesguida (4089m/13,415ft)
Area: Ouanoukrim, High Atlas, Morocco
A superb and unusual mountain, which interested me considerably more than Toubkal. Ouanoukrim has double summits, rising from a vast lunar plateau, and is well defended on all sides by a combination of cliffs and remoteness. It has one simple route up an easy ridge from a high col, however. Further, Timesguida and Ras are the second and third highest peaks in the Atlas. All told, it was an obvious objective after spending a second night in the Toubkal Refuge. I still tussled with various other options, however, before finally deciding to go for it after another 5am breakfast. A little earlier than yesterday leaving the refuge, so the first section was by headtorch and, as a result, I was glad of my reccie up into this valley yesterday. Heading up here in the dark, solo, was quite memorable, particularly as 90% of the other torch lights were heading up the South Cwm to Toubkal. I did overtake a large French party higher up towards the Ouanaoums Pass, however, and quite soon I had enough light to see the onward route to the obvious col of Tizi n'Ouagane higher up. This looks shallow and easy, but is actually a fair way off. The paths diverge in the flat valley base, and the route towards Ouanoukrim heads up the side of the valley, which is quite tight at this point with a fast-flowing river forming a small gorge in its base. Steep zigzags gains meadows, then a large snowfield. This was firm and enjoyable and led to the final steep climb up scree to the main col of Ouagane. Views open out to the wild valleys further south from this very distinct col: the wild Agoundis valley immediately below. The character of the onward route changes at this point, as a pinnacled ridge needs to be climbed to gain the lunar plateau above. This was very interesting and enjoyable, particularly as the day was developing into a real cracker: deep blue cloudless sky and the sun breaking over Toubkal. The low sun lit the ridge to perfection as I weaved past two weird eroded pinnacles. It then follows the crest, easy scrambling, to gain an enjoyable gully. A little traverse path avoids a steeper section to the right, then a miniature col, before more intricate route finding gains a bit more easy scrambling to the plateau. This felt a pretty special place: completely barren and most of it at around 4000m, suspended above the valleys and peaks of the High Atlas. I ploughed up to the summit of Ras, with great views to Toubkal (pleasing to see Toubkal West looking distinctive and worthwhile). From here, a short jog across to the slightly higher summit of Timesguida. Again, this felt rather 'out there': alone on a big peak with the High Atlas dropping away to the south almost immediately to low desert hills. The descent took a different looping line back to pick up a line of cairns down to the crucial ridge (not a feature you would want to miss: indeed this is not a peak or route I would contemplate in mist!). The downclimb was very simple, though, and I spied a direct scree run down to cut the corner below the Tizi n'Ouagane. From here, I made rapid downward progress down the still cold and shaded valley, intent on gaining the sunny broader valley lower down. The snowfield was still firm, and I didn't stop for a second breakfast until I reached the little meadows near the junction with the Lac d'Ifni pass. After a short break, I continued to the hut, picked up the rest of my stuff, and headed all the way down to Imlil. This was a wonderful descent in perfect weather, getting hotter with every few hundred metres of descent. A lammergeier flew over the valley as I descended, only the third time I have ever seen one (one flew a few feet above my head in Nepal). It wheeled around the North Cwm of Toubkal then flew back. Lower down, I got blue rock thrush and crimson-winged finch, among other species. By the time I reached Sidi Chamarouch, it was hot. By the time I reached the dry river valley and Aremd it was baking and airless. But I soon gained the delightful woodland between Aremd and Imlil: cool streams and walnut trees. On arrival in Imlil, I had to climb a mile or two back up the valley and through the alleyways of Tamatert to get back to Douar Samra, where I enjoyed an excellent lunch of Moroccan quiche and omelette before relaxing as the clouds gathered over the peaks for another storm that afternoon.
Area: Ouanoukrim, High Atlas, Morocco
A superb and unusual mountain, which interested me considerably more than Toubkal. Ouanoukrim has double summits, rising from a vast lunar plateau, and is well defended on all sides by a combination of cliffs and remoteness. It has one simple route up an easy ridge from a high col, however. Further, Timesguida and Ras are the second and third highest peaks in the Atlas. All told, it was an obvious objective after spending a second night in the Toubkal Refuge. I still tussled with various other options, however, before finally deciding to go for it after another 5am breakfast. A little earlier than yesterday leaving the refuge, so the first section was by headtorch and, as a result, I was glad of my reccie up into this valley yesterday. Heading up here in the dark, solo, was quite memorable, particularly as 90% of the other torch lights were heading up the South Cwm to Toubkal. I did overtake a large French party higher up towards the Ouanaoums Pass, however, and quite soon I had enough light to see the onward route to the obvious col of Tizi n'Ouagane higher up. This looks shallow and easy, but is actually a fair way off. The paths diverge in the flat valley base, and the route towards Ouanoukrim heads up the side of the valley, which is quite tight at this point with a fast-flowing river forming a small gorge in its base. Steep zigzags gains meadows, then a large snowfield. This was firm and enjoyable and led to the final steep climb up scree to the main col of Ouagane. Views open out to the wild valleys further south from this very distinct col: the wild Agoundis valley immediately below. The character of the onward route changes at this point, as a pinnacled ridge needs to be climbed to gain the lunar plateau above. This was very interesting and enjoyable, particularly as the day was developing into a real cracker: deep blue cloudless sky and the sun breaking over Toubkal. The low sun lit the ridge to perfection as I weaved past two weird eroded pinnacles. It then follows the crest, easy scrambling, to gain an enjoyable gully. A little traverse path avoids a steeper section to the right, then a miniature col, before more intricate route finding gains a bit more easy scrambling to the plateau. This felt a pretty special place: completely barren and most of it at around 4000m, suspended above the valleys and peaks of the High Atlas. I ploughed up to the summit of Ras, with great views to Toubkal (pleasing to see Toubkal West looking distinctive and worthwhile). From here, a short jog across to the slightly higher summit of Timesguida. Again, this felt rather 'out there': alone on a big peak with the High Atlas dropping away to the south almost immediately to low desert hills. The descent took a different looping line back to pick up a line of cairns down to the crucial ridge (not a feature you would want to miss: indeed this is not a peak or route I would contemplate in mist!). The downclimb was very simple, though, and I spied a direct scree run down to cut the corner below the Tizi n'Ouagane. From here, I made rapid downward progress down the still cold and shaded valley, intent on gaining the sunny broader valley lower down. The snowfield was still firm, and I didn't stop for a second breakfast until I reached the little meadows near the junction with the Lac d'Ifni pass. After a short break, I continued to the hut, picked up the rest of my stuff, and headed all the way down to Imlil. This was a wonderful descent in perfect weather, getting hotter with every few hundred metres of descent. A lammergeier flew over the valley as I descended, only the third time I have ever seen one (one flew a few feet above my head in Nepal). It wheeled around the North Cwm of Toubkal then flew back. Lower down, I got blue rock thrush and crimson-winged finch, among other species. By the time I reached Sidi Chamarouch, it was hot. By the time I reached the dry river valley and Aremd it was baking and airless. But I soon gained the delightful woodland between Aremd and Imlil: cool streams and walnut trees. On arrival in Imlil, I had to climb a mile or two back up the valley and through the alleyways of Tamatert to get back to Douar Samra, where I enjoyed an excellent lunch of Moroccan quiche and omelette before relaxing as the clouds gathered over the peaks for another storm that afternoon.
Monday, July 13, 2015
Toubkal circuit
Peaks: Jebel Toubkal (4167m/13,671ft), Toubkal West (4008m/13,149ft)
Area: Toubkal, High Atlas, Morocco
Over the years, this peak has become something of a backpackers 'thing to do' and therefore not really my cup of tea. But having said that, it is a fine and impressive mountain, the highest in North Africa, and an unavoidable objective from the Refuge du Toubkal at its foot. It's a short outing, too, and I had the idea of combining it with more peaks and/or a valley walk. Had breakfast at around 5am, and left in the half-light of early dawn, crossing the river that runs down from the Ouagouns valley to gain the bottom of the initial steep scree slopes that give access to the South Cwm proper. A few early refuseniks were already on their way down (I would guess the peak has a fairly high failure rate, given the unconventional clientele and the altitude). The scree is relatively solid, and the route weaves through giant boulder fields with the impressive walls of Toubkal West looming above. Behind, the sun lit the Clochetons ridge. The South Cwm is tight and well defined, and the slopes reasonably gentle. It opens out higher up, some snowfields, then fans out again to gain the Tizi n'Toubkal. But before I reached the Tizi (col) I branched off for a direct route to the summit. This was up shifting scree, much steeper, and led eventually to a kind of forepeak and the more impressive summit ridge. This was considerably more interesting, cliffs plunging down into the remote valleys further east. I reached the summit in 99 minutes from the refuge (just after 7am) and enjoyed a much longer than usual period of relaxation on the top. I didn't have it to myself, and the views were a little hazy with a roof of high cloud, but I really enjoyed picking out the summits and getting to grips with the range. An informative conversation with a friendly guide helped (he had a party of Germans with him and spoke six languages). I could see Imlil in the green valley far below to the north, but the most impressive peak was Ouanoukrim across the spurs and ridges to the south. This was my plan for tomorrow. The long ridges from Toubkal to Afekhoi and Dome d'Ifni also looked excellent, but not really feasible for me on this short break. To the south, hazy spurs led down to baked valleys and the distant Sahara. It was fairly cold - around 5C - but reasonably comfortable. I wandered down for a look at the North Cwm descent, thinking I might pick up the peaks above it like Imouzzer. But they were virtually indistinguishable from above, just bumps on the ridge. By contrast, Toubkal West, across the South Cwm, looked quite impressive despite the boring name, so I resolved to make a little horseshoe of the South Cwm taking in the ridge and Toubkal West before descending directly to to the snowfield in the South Cwm. This was again rather too short, but very pleasant. I took a fairly direct line down the ridge to the Tizi n'Toubkal col, then took the obvious upper traverse path towards Toubkal West. This is fairly well defined and weaves past a few little wind gaps with great views over multiple ridges towards a final scramble up the square pinnacle forming the summit of Toubkal West. This was an excellent viewpoint, directly across from Akioud and the Clochetons ridge. Ouanoukrim and its twin summits again impressed, and were now even closer, while the main Toubkal summit towered across the South Cwm. I had a second breakfast and took a direct line down to the South Cwm thereby completing a mini-horseshoe. The return to the hut was simple, and I had a little rest before deciding what to do with the rest of the day (it was only about 9.30am!). I ended up walking up towards the Tizi n'Ouanaoums, a steep and important pass linking this valley with the Lac d'Ifni and Takatert and the more remote valleys and villages to the east. This was a pleasant ramble and led to a flat and vegetation-free plain dotted with huge boulders. I even did a bit of bouldering in this wild spot, as the sun peeked through the clouds. Later, another storm (milder than the previous two days), and another fine tagine (djej mqualli - chicken with olives and preserved lemons), with a mint tea chaser. I managed to slip into an empty dormitory for more peace at the refuge later on.
Area: Toubkal, High Atlas, Morocco
Over the years, this peak has become something of a backpackers 'thing to do' and therefore not really my cup of tea. But having said that, it is a fine and impressive mountain, the highest in North Africa, and an unavoidable objective from the Refuge du Toubkal at its foot. It's a short outing, too, and I had the idea of combining it with more peaks and/or a valley walk. Had breakfast at around 5am, and left in the half-light of early dawn, crossing the river that runs down from the Ouagouns valley to gain the bottom of the initial steep scree slopes that give access to the South Cwm proper. A few early refuseniks were already on their way down (I would guess the peak has a fairly high failure rate, given the unconventional clientele and the altitude). The scree is relatively solid, and the route weaves through giant boulder fields with the impressive walls of Toubkal West looming above. Behind, the sun lit the Clochetons ridge. The South Cwm is tight and well defined, and the slopes reasonably gentle. It opens out higher up, some snowfields, then fans out again to gain the Tizi n'Toubkal. But before I reached the Tizi (col) I branched off for a direct route to the summit. This was up shifting scree, much steeper, and led eventually to a kind of forepeak and the more impressive summit ridge. This was considerably more interesting, cliffs plunging down into the remote valleys further east. I reached the summit in 99 minutes from the refuge (just after 7am) and enjoyed a much longer than usual period of relaxation on the top. I didn't have it to myself, and the views were a little hazy with a roof of high cloud, but I really enjoyed picking out the summits and getting to grips with the range. An informative conversation with a friendly guide helped (he had a party of Germans with him and spoke six languages). I could see Imlil in the green valley far below to the north, but the most impressive peak was Ouanoukrim across the spurs and ridges to the south. This was my plan for tomorrow. The long ridges from Toubkal to Afekhoi and Dome d'Ifni also looked excellent, but not really feasible for me on this short break. To the south, hazy spurs led down to baked valleys and the distant Sahara. It was fairly cold - around 5C - but reasonably comfortable. I wandered down for a look at the North Cwm descent, thinking I might pick up the peaks above it like Imouzzer. But they were virtually indistinguishable from above, just bumps on the ridge. By contrast, Toubkal West, across the South Cwm, looked quite impressive despite the boring name, so I resolved to make a little horseshoe of the South Cwm taking in the ridge and Toubkal West before descending directly to to the snowfield in the South Cwm. This was again rather too short, but very pleasant. I took a fairly direct line down the ridge to the Tizi n'Toubkal col, then took the obvious upper traverse path towards Toubkal West. This is fairly well defined and weaves past a few little wind gaps with great views over multiple ridges towards a final scramble up the square pinnacle forming the summit of Toubkal West. This was an excellent viewpoint, directly across from Akioud and the Clochetons ridge. Ouanoukrim and its twin summits again impressed, and were now even closer, while the main Toubkal summit towered across the South Cwm. I had a second breakfast and took a direct line down to the South Cwm thereby completing a mini-horseshoe. The return to the hut was simple, and I had a little rest before deciding what to do with the rest of the day (it was only about 9.30am!). I ended up walking up towards the Tizi n'Ouanaoums, a steep and important pass linking this valley with the Lac d'Ifni and Takatert and the more remote valleys and villages to the east. This was a pleasant ramble and led to a flat and vegetation-free plain dotted with huge boulders. I even did a bit of bouldering in this wild spot, as the sun peeked through the clouds. Later, another storm (milder than the previous two days), and another fine tagine (djej mqualli - chicken with olives and preserved lemons), with a mint tea chaser. I managed to slip into an empty dormitory for more peace at the refuge later on.
Sunday, July 12, 2015
Tamatert to Toubkal Refuge
I arrived in the mountain village of Tamatert in the dark on Saturday evening, during a violent electrical storm: the start of a brief trip to the High Atlas mountains of Morocco. My taxi stopped at the end of the rubble track up from Imlil (after driving from Marrakech airport, 39C even at 7pm). Heavy rain as we walked by torchlight down stony paths and alleyways, fat toads jumping around, mules braying, and found the tiny front door of my accommodation: a restored Berber douar. After a superb lamb tagine and other Moroccan specialities, all by candelight (no electricity in the house) I turned in. Next morning dawned perfectly sunny and clear: deep blue sky. After breakfast, I negotiated the alleyways of Tamatert and walked down the road to Imlil. From here, some guesswork is required to find the onward route to Aremd and the mountains. I followed old tracks past Berber houses and groves of walnut trees to a river crossing. Above this, a climb led to the superbly positioned hillside village of Aremd: on a steep slope with views up to Toubkal and beyond. Through the lower streets, all tiny alleyways and characteristic flat-topped houses, to gain the large dry river bed/floodplain at the foot of the higher peaks. Dramatic scenery ahead, with multiple spurs and side valleys leading to Toubkal dominating the view ahead: the sky still cloudless. Temperatures were hot but bearable. I had to ask several local Berbers about the onward route: none of it is marked, but it is well used by locals. Up to this point, I'd seen no foreigners at all. At a large boulder, I then made a rather embarrassing error, taking a small path above the river. This was obviously too narrow to be the main mule trail, but for some reason I persisted, thinking it might make an interesting short-cut perhaps. It soon petered out into a nightmare of mud, huge boulders and impenetrable vegetation. I tried to follow the river itself for a bit, but eventually decided I would have to seek a route up the side of the valley and hope to gain the main route. This I did, scrambling up a dry stream bed, and eventually spied a mule train higher up the valley side. I regained the main path by a shack selling drinks, so cooled down with an orange drink. The main track was far more comfortable, with spectacular backward views as colourful mule trains made their way up: beyond barren yellow hills soared upwards with a deep blue sky above. Soon, I reached the tiny settlement of Sidi Chamarouch at the junction of two valleys (Mizane and Tarharate, which cuts the steep side valley to the east). This has a white mosque hidden between massive boulders and is a sight of Islamic pilgrimage. It also has a few dusty shacks selling drinks, but due to ramadam most of the proprietors were asleep as I passed around midday. Above, the route gets much more physical: steep zigzags gain a long contouring path above the valley of the Mizane river. The path then makes a beeline up the valley, climbing all the way, with the views opening out towards Ouanoukrim (Ras) directly in front, although the Refuge du Toubkal stays hidden until the last minute. It began to cloud over, which made life a little more comfortable, although the altitude starting to kick in as I climbed towards 3000m (generally the level that I start to really feel it). It took almost three hours to reach the refuge, longer than I'd expected. I booked in and claimed a bunk, had a snack, and began to consider the feasibility of my original plan (which had been to nip up Toubkal in the afternoon). I had plenty of time and energy, but the obvious problem was the weather. It had clouded over, there was a hint of rain in the air, and a strong hint of an afternoon storm. Still, I had plenty of time to kill so thought I would at least reccie the route. This was pleasant, a little walk up to the river crossing, then up the initial steep zigzags leading in to the South Cwm (Ikhibi Sud). I was just beginning to think I might break into a run and continue all the way up to the summit when a loud clap of thunder sent me scurrying back to the hut for a mint tea (and later, a fine chicken tagine with carrot soup and melon).
Sunday, July 05, 2015
Fairy Freckled Cow trail race
Race: Freckled Cow/Llyn Alwen trail race (11k)
Time/Position: 43.16 (6th from 119)
After struggling for a few months, it was a relief to feel reasonably fit today. I finished 6th, exactly the same position as when I last did this excellent race two years ago, albeit 14 seconds slower. Much more important, though, I actually enjoyed myself for a change and didn't fall to pieces half way round. Two years ago, several runners ended up in the recovery position with heat stroke - it was one of the hottest Welsh races I can remember. Today, intermittent sunshine was very pleasant on the outward leg along the eastern shore of the lake to the wild terrain on the edge of Hiraethog where you cross the lake at a small bridge and negotiate a very sharp climb to gain an exposed moor which leads down to more fire tracks and fast, undulating running to the finish. Very little of the race is actually flat, but the hills are never very long. It gives a great session: and some very heavy rain later on in the race helped cool us all down today.
Time/Position: 43.16 (6th from 119)
After struggling for a few months, it was a relief to feel reasonably fit today. I finished 6th, exactly the same position as when I last did this excellent race two years ago, albeit 14 seconds slower. Much more important, though, I actually enjoyed myself for a change and didn't fall to pieces half way round. Two years ago, several runners ended up in the recovery position with heat stroke - it was one of the hottest Welsh races I can remember. Today, intermittent sunshine was very pleasant on the outward leg along the eastern shore of the lake to the wild terrain on the edge of Hiraethog where you cross the lake at a small bridge and negotiate a very sharp climb to gain an exposed moor which leads down to more fire tracks and fast, undulating running to the finish. Very little of the race is actually flat, but the hills are never very long. It gives a great session: and some very heavy rain later on in the race helped cool us all down today.
Tuesday, June 30, 2015
Pen Trwyn climbing
Crag: Pen Trwyn, Llandudno
Routes: Green Flash (f5+:led), Planned Obsolescence (f6a+:led), Mumbo Jumbo (f6a+:led), Mumbo Jumbo variant (f6a+:sec), Tears as Souvenirs Direct (f6b:sec)
This is not a crag I've visited often over the years: too hard and steep for me. I have done a few routes here and there since the late 80s, but generally come away tired and demoralised. Today was only a slight exception to that rule, although I do feel a tad stronger at present, and we did get at least get a few routes done before the inevitable pump. Green Flash may be the worst route on the Orme, and is not a great warm-up. It heads rightwards over two small overhangs on big but polished holds: short and steep. We moved round to the Mumbo Jumbo area above the bouldering caves, and I led the newly bolted f6a+ line on the far left. This is short, and loose in places, but a better warm up, with a tricky initial move followed by easier climbing. Overgraded - probably 5+ or 6a. Mumbo Jumbo itself is an excellent line, an old E2 5c, now retrobolted, which cunningly weaves round to circumvent some large overhangs. A high first clip is gained after a steep but easy start, then steeper moves gain the orange slab at mid-height. Here the rock changes from soapy and slippery to quite rough pocketed limestone. A traverse right below a small roof leads to the first crux: steeply round the overlap with a pinch-grip. The route then stays steep. I clipped the bolt above the final roof with difficulty, then tried a version of the direct finish at 6b+: using the obvious chalked hold in a very draining position. It didn't really work, and Hayley later did a superb job of unlocking the indirect solution to the final move at 6a+. It goes much further left, then uses small footholds to reach arete holds which allow the roof to be circumvented. Good climb: we did it twice. We then bouldered out the bottom few crux moves of Tears as Souvenirs, a grade harder. Very soapy rock, especially in these hot conditions (beautiful day, 30C, so glad of the shade). This was energy sapping, not clean, and a bit of a battle. In retrospect, not such a good idea after two ascents of Mumbo Jumbo. It meant that we had very little forearm power for the harder routes we tried in the Deep Fix area overlooking the deep blue sea. Stunning conditions though, so we walked down to inspect the Sticky Mix wall above the sea. Clear blue sky, flat calm sea, orange rock: we could have been in the Costa Blanca, or Thailand.
Routes: Green Flash (f5+:led), Planned Obsolescence (f6a+:led), Mumbo Jumbo (f6a+:led), Mumbo Jumbo variant (f6a+:sec), Tears as Souvenirs Direct (f6b:sec)
This is not a crag I've visited often over the years: too hard and steep for me. I have done a few routes here and there since the late 80s, but generally come away tired and demoralised. Today was only a slight exception to that rule, although I do feel a tad stronger at present, and we did get at least get a few routes done before the inevitable pump. Green Flash may be the worst route on the Orme, and is not a great warm-up. It heads rightwards over two small overhangs on big but polished holds: short and steep. We moved round to the Mumbo Jumbo area above the bouldering caves, and I led the newly bolted f6a+ line on the far left. This is short, and loose in places, but a better warm up, with a tricky initial move followed by easier climbing. Overgraded - probably 5+ or 6a. Mumbo Jumbo itself is an excellent line, an old E2 5c, now retrobolted, which cunningly weaves round to circumvent some large overhangs. A high first clip is gained after a steep but easy start, then steeper moves gain the orange slab at mid-height. Here the rock changes from soapy and slippery to quite rough pocketed limestone. A traverse right below a small roof leads to the first crux: steeply round the overlap with a pinch-grip. The route then stays steep. I clipped the bolt above the final roof with difficulty, then tried a version of the direct finish at 6b+: using the obvious chalked hold in a very draining position. It didn't really work, and Hayley later did a superb job of unlocking the indirect solution to the final move at 6a+. It goes much further left, then uses small footholds to reach arete holds which allow the roof to be circumvented. Good climb: we did it twice. We then bouldered out the bottom few crux moves of Tears as Souvenirs, a grade harder. Very soapy rock, especially in these hot conditions (beautiful day, 30C, so glad of the shade). This was energy sapping, not clean, and a bit of a battle. In retrospect, not such a good idea after two ascents of Mumbo Jumbo. It meant that we had very little forearm power for the harder routes we tried in the Deep Fix area overlooking the deep blue sea. Stunning conditions though, so we walked down to inspect the Sticky Mix wall above the sea. Clear blue sky, flat calm sea, orange rock: we could have been in the Costa Blanca, or Thailand.
Sunday, June 28, 2015
Moel y Gamelin fell race
Race: Moel y Gamelin (10m/2000ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1.23.31 (9th from 49 [2nd V45])
Yet another race where I struggled to maintain any kind of pace and did not enjoy myself. Not bothered about getting slower, but would like to enjoy myself on races again - still waiting for a decent performance in 2015! I felt OK as we climbed Moel y Faen, and in the past I've paced this race quite well. But today I think I used too much energy just keeping a decent pace going over the summits of Gamelin and Morfydd in a strong headwind. A heavy shower made for bracing progress over the final summit, and stayed with us on the long descent over Bwlch y Groes and out over the lonely terrain further west. This long XC section is where I've managed to pick the pace up in the past, but today I just lost energy again and blew (yet again) on the gentle incline back towards the ridge. Then really suffered for the main climb back up the Conquering Hero bridleway to regain the ridge. I crawled back over Gamelin, losing three places as stronger finishers went past. I did get a second wind back over Moel y Faen but the damage was already done.
Time/Position: 1.23.31 (9th from 49 [2nd V45])
Yet another race where I struggled to maintain any kind of pace and did not enjoy myself. Not bothered about getting slower, but would like to enjoy myself on races again - still waiting for a decent performance in 2015! I felt OK as we climbed Moel y Faen, and in the past I've paced this race quite well. But today I think I used too much energy just keeping a decent pace going over the summits of Gamelin and Morfydd in a strong headwind. A heavy shower made for bracing progress over the final summit, and stayed with us on the long descent over Bwlch y Groes and out over the lonely terrain further west. This long XC section is where I've managed to pick the pace up in the past, but today I just lost energy again and blew (yet again) on the gentle incline back towards the ridge. Then really suffered for the main climb back up the Conquering Hero bridleway to regain the ridge. I crawled back over Gamelin, losing three places as stronger finishers went past. I did get a second wind back over Moel y Faen but the damage was already done.
Wednesday, June 24, 2015
Maeshafn climbing
Crag: Maeshafn
Routes: Rambler (HS 4a:led), Wilkinson Sword Edge (VS 4b:led), The Minstrel (E1 5b:sec), Puppy Power (VS 4b:led), Flying Block (E1 5a:sec), Sling (HS 4a:led)
A heavy shower swept in just as we were gearing up at the base of the crag. So I changed plans rapidly and nipped up the easy (and overgraded) Rambler in the rain. I've been visiting this crag since 1988, so then deployed some local knowledge and sneaked off to the sheltered Wilkinson Sword Edge as the rain continued and black clouds swept in over Moel Famau. This route is hidden in the trees, and takes a vague arete of very rough limestone. One tricky steep move up to a huge jug at the start, then easy climbing up a nice flake: shame it's so short! The rain eased a little, so we did the classic E1 line of the Minstrel with rope above: rather polished now. The crag dries quickly, quicker than rock boots, so I led the now dry slab taken by Puppy Power in wet shoes. An intermittent line of thin cracks: nice climbing. I've done all these routes many times before, but it was a good choice today in this weather. Flying Block is a bit of a sandbag: E1 5c would be a more accurate grade. Indeed, a curious feature of Maeshafn is that the easier routes tend to be soft touches, while anything above HVS often seems undergraded. Flying Block has a very hard move after about 10ft, particularly in damp conditions. Very little for the feet, smooth and slippery, and a hard pull over a flake. Above, you are in balance and some nice moves lead less steeply to the top. Hayley and I both failed on the even harder Royal Plume: also polished and greasy, felt at least E2/3 6a. All this hadn't taken long (a short evening visit), and the weather was now clearing completely, so we nipped round to the Amphitheatre for the polished crack line of Sling, which I have done many, many times over the years. I was now fading fast, beginning to feel the after-effects of a 12 mile run over Hope Mountain and Pen Llan y Gwr first thing this morning!
Routes: Rambler (HS 4a:led), Wilkinson Sword Edge (VS 4b:led), The Minstrel (E1 5b:sec), Puppy Power (VS 4b:led), Flying Block (E1 5a:sec), Sling (HS 4a:led)
A heavy shower swept in just as we were gearing up at the base of the crag. So I changed plans rapidly and nipped up the easy (and overgraded) Rambler in the rain. I've been visiting this crag since 1988, so then deployed some local knowledge and sneaked off to the sheltered Wilkinson Sword Edge as the rain continued and black clouds swept in over Moel Famau. This route is hidden in the trees, and takes a vague arete of very rough limestone. One tricky steep move up to a huge jug at the start, then easy climbing up a nice flake: shame it's so short! The rain eased a little, so we did the classic E1 line of the Minstrel with rope above: rather polished now. The crag dries quickly, quicker than rock boots, so I led the now dry slab taken by Puppy Power in wet shoes. An intermittent line of thin cracks: nice climbing. I've done all these routes many times before, but it was a good choice today in this weather. Flying Block is a bit of a sandbag: E1 5c would be a more accurate grade. Indeed, a curious feature of Maeshafn is that the easier routes tend to be soft touches, while anything above HVS often seems undergraded. Flying Block has a very hard move after about 10ft, particularly in damp conditions. Very little for the feet, smooth and slippery, and a hard pull over a flake. Above, you are in balance and some nice moves lead less steeply to the top. Hayley and I both failed on the even harder Royal Plume: also polished and greasy, felt at least E2/3 6a. All this hadn't taken long (a short evening visit), and the weather was now clearing completely, so we nipped round to the Amphitheatre for the polished crack line of Sling, which I have done many, many times over the years. I was now fading fast, beginning to feel the after-effects of a 12 mile run over Hope Mountain and Pen Llan y Gwr first thing this morning!
Tuesday, June 23, 2015
Idwal run
A light mist was hanging just above Llyn y Cwn as I fired up the stove for a horribly early cup of coffee. The tent was down and my bag packed by 5am, as I had to get back home in time to see the kids off to school, and get to the office! I jogged down the path and emerged from the mist as I dropped down to Twll Ddu. From the shores of Llyn Idwal, the mist peeled away from the upper cliff of Glyder Fawr, reflected in the lake. A cloud inversion seemed likely on the ridge, but I had a range of different commitments: it was with some regret that I continued running back to Ogwen cottage and the car. Home by 7am!
Monday, June 22, 2015
Glyderau run and wild camp
Peak: Y Garn
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
An impromptu decision to indulge in a solo wild camp, as close to the summer solstice as was feasible. The day had dawned wet, windy and quite cold, but was starting to clear by the time I left work. After some bouldering (below) there was still a disappointing amount of black cloud around as I started to jog up the Idwal path from Ogwen Cottage at around 6.30pm, but there were signs that it might clear a bit. I made good progress past the slabs and Twll Ddu, and had the entire range to myself, as I'd hoped, as I gained the plateau between Y Garn and Glyder Fawr. I pitched on a perfect flat spot right next to the shore of Llyn y Cwn: a delightful site. I then jogged up Y Garn: sadly rather cold and cloudy, with a hint of drizzle in the air. A few clearances over the Llyn peninsula and the Irish Sea, shafts of sunlight. I went back for my rather spartan evening meal: some pasta on the stove, and a couple of mugs of tea, it was indeed an impromptu camp! I then ambled up to some scrambling on the steeper spurs coming down from Glyder Fawr as the weather started to clear around 9pm. Quite quickly, most of the cloud melted away and I sat in the sunshine near the summit plateau of Glyder Fawr relaxing and looking down to my tent near the lake. A few midges, but nothing too serious, and the temperature dropped as the sky turned lilac. I retired to the sound of grey wagtails and meadow pipits, and read the Sunday paper in bed before dozing off.
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
An impromptu decision to indulge in a solo wild camp, as close to the summer solstice as was feasible. The day had dawned wet, windy and quite cold, but was starting to clear by the time I left work. After some bouldering (below) there was still a disappointing amount of black cloud around as I started to jog up the Idwal path from Ogwen Cottage at around 6.30pm, but there were signs that it might clear a bit. I made good progress past the slabs and Twll Ddu, and had the entire range to myself, as I'd hoped, as I gained the plateau between Y Garn and Glyder Fawr. I pitched on a perfect flat spot right next to the shore of Llyn y Cwn: a delightful site. I then jogged up Y Garn: sadly rather cold and cloudy, with a hint of drizzle in the air. A few clearances over the Llyn peninsula and the Irish Sea, shafts of sunlight. I went back for my rather spartan evening meal: some pasta on the stove, and a couple of mugs of tea, it was indeed an impromptu camp! I then ambled up to some scrambling on the steeper spurs coming down from Glyder Fawr as the weather started to clear around 9pm. Quite quickly, most of the cloud melted away and I sat in the sunshine near the summit plateau of Glyder Fawr relaxing and looking down to my tent near the lake. A few midges, but nothing too serious, and the temperature dropped as the sky turned lilac. I retired to the sound of grey wagtails and meadow pipits, and read the Sunday paper in bed before dozing off.
Dyffryn Mymbyr bouldering
A quick evening bouldering session before running up to Llyn y Cwn for an impromptu solstice wild camp. I've been here a few times before, always finding the problems quite hard and polished. They were also rather greasy today, after morning rain. I did all the slabby routes first, then the left-hand version of the RAC arete: rather precarious with a polished start. Backside arete is very easy, but pleasant: more like a miniature VS than a boulder problem. Then some particularly enjoyable lines: the V0+ which moves up and right into a hanging groove is steep, positive and quite exciting. Another route at the same grade goes up the steep wall further right via a series of powerful moves on small but positive holds. At the end of the slabby boulder, I did the overhanging arete and the awkward traverse before heading round to Ogwen for the run up to my intended campsite at Llyn y Cwn.
Saturday, June 20, 2015
Cwm Pennant Horseshoe fell race
Race: Ras Pedol Cwm Pennant (17m/5600ft/AL)
Peaks: Moel Hebog, Moel yr Ogof, Moel Lefn, Trum y Ddisgyl, Mynydd Tal y Mignedd, Craig Cwm Silyn, Garnedd Goch
Time/Position: 3.19.32 (11th from 36)
The cloudbase was almost down to the valley floor as we set off from a humid Bryncir at the base of this famous and beautiful valley. The field in such conditions was inevitably going to be fairly small: as it clashed with other events, and it was clear that navigation would be a challenge almost from the outset. Peter, Andy and I were looking forward to it. Last year, I had a reasonable run and thought it was a superb new race over some of my favourite hills: finishing just after Simon E in 8th place, well under three hours. A repeat was never likely this year, so I just adopted a steady striding pace up Moel Hebog in thick and humid mist. This was OK, and I found myself running with Noel from Eryri, same as last year, as we descended towards Moel yr Ogof in steady rain and very poor visibility. We followed the wall than ploughed up through the cleft in the rock to the checkpoint on top of the rocky summit of Moel yr Ogof. It was even harder to find the checkpoint on Moel Lefn, and we initially went past it - doubling back for the climb up to the summit. A much bigger error followed, however, as I drifted too far right on a bearing north, descending the wrong side of a spur. As often happens, a small error turned into a big one and we found ourselves well off course, too far east. A giant dogleg ensued (at least the error was quickly obvious) and a wall bisecting the ridge acted as a handrail to gain the path through the quarries to eventually gain Bwlch y Ddwy Elor: visibility dreadful throughout. We'd lost a lot of time, and Andy soon appeared having taken the direct route down from Lefn. He shot up the misty Trum y Ddisgyl to gain the main Nantlle ridge and it was as much as I could do to keep up initially. The highlight of the route comes next: the narrow and sometimes rocky ridge across to Tal y Mignedd. A spectacular clearance gave views down to Nantlle as the mist peeled away from one half of the ridge. Andy and I were equally matched over this section and took a direct scrambling line through the rocks. I went too far right last year from Craig Cwm Silyn, so we careful to stay left and pick up the main path to Garnedd Goch. It was nice to be moving at speed after losing so much time on the descent from Moel Lefn. The descent down Cwm Ciprwth is one of the hardest on any race: a blend of hidden rocks, tussocks and deep heather. No paths until you emerge at the checkpoint at the base of the cwm. From here I pushed on a little and felt quite good on the long road run in: although as I was a full 25 minutes slower than last year, it should have felt fairly comfortable. Wonderful race again.
Peaks: Moel Hebog, Moel yr Ogof, Moel Lefn, Trum y Ddisgyl, Mynydd Tal y Mignedd, Craig Cwm Silyn, Garnedd Goch
Time/Position: 3.19.32 (11th from 36)
The cloudbase was almost down to the valley floor as we set off from a humid Bryncir at the base of this famous and beautiful valley. The field in such conditions was inevitably going to be fairly small: as it clashed with other events, and it was clear that navigation would be a challenge almost from the outset. Peter, Andy and I were looking forward to it. Last year, I had a reasonable run and thought it was a superb new race over some of my favourite hills: finishing just after Simon E in 8th place, well under three hours. A repeat was never likely this year, so I just adopted a steady striding pace up Moel Hebog in thick and humid mist. This was OK, and I found myself running with Noel from Eryri, same as last year, as we descended towards Moel yr Ogof in steady rain and very poor visibility. We followed the wall than ploughed up through the cleft in the rock to the checkpoint on top of the rocky summit of Moel yr Ogof. It was even harder to find the checkpoint on Moel Lefn, and we initially went past it - doubling back for the climb up to the summit. A much bigger error followed, however, as I drifted too far right on a bearing north, descending the wrong side of a spur. As often happens, a small error turned into a big one and we found ourselves well off course, too far east. A giant dogleg ensued (at least the error was quickly obvious) and a wall bisecting the ridge acted as a handrail to gain the path through the quarries to eventually gain Bwlch y Ddwy Elor: visibility dreadful throughout. We'd lost a lot of time, and Andy soon appeared having taken the direct route down from Lefn. He shot up the misty Trum y Ddisgyl to gain the main Nantlle ridge and it was as much as I could do to keep up initially. The highlight of the route comes next: the narrow and sometimes rocky ridge across to Tal y Mignedd. A spectacular clearance gave views down to Nantlle as the mist peeled away from one half of the ridge. Andy and I were equally matched over this section and took a direct scrambling line through the rocks. I went too far right last year from Craig Cwm Silyn, so we careful to stay left and pick up the main path to Garnedd Goch. It was nice to be moving at speed after losing so much time on the descent from Moel Lefn. The descent down Cwm Ciprwth is one of the hardest on any race: a blend of hidden rocks, tussocks and deep heather. No paths until you emerge at the checkpoint at the base of the cwm. From here I pushed on a little and felt quite good on the long road run in: although as I was a full 25 minutes slower than last year, it should have felt fairly comfortable. Wonderful race again.
Saturday, June 13, 2015
Man v Horse
Race: Man v Horse Marathon (22m/4000ft)
Time/Position: 3.18.31 (82nd from 657)
This is another one of those classic events missing from my 'CV', but as with the Yorkshire Three Peaks in April I did not cover myself in glory today: just didn't have sufficient mileage in my legs to keep it going towards the end. In fact, the wheels fell off in time-honoured fashion when I still had five (rather distressing) miles to go. Light drizzle as Jez and I waited in Llanwrtyd Wells for the start: my first time here since doing the almost equally legendary Real Ale Wobble mountain bike loop 12 or so years ago. The rain stayed fairly light, but fell continuously all day. As a result, we kept cool but it was very boggy underfoot at times. A nice atmosphere as we left the Neuadd Arms and headed up the Irfon valley. The route is very complex and very varied, but is essentially a giant loop around the valley taking in some fairly wild mountain terrain at times. A sharp climb up a track after a couple of miles set the scene. It was followed by some narrow, boggy tracks high up on the eastern slopes of the valley. I felt pretty good, and went through the first checkpoint well up the field in just over 50 minutes. I was passed by two horses on a long inclining track, but didn't see any more until high up in the hills near Abergwesyn. I continued to feel pretty good through the second checkpoint, and although horses and relay runners were mixed up with the 500 or so doing the full distance, I felt I was well up the field at this point. However, with about five miles to go the distance and difficulty of the terrain began to take its toll: as did my old bugbear, an upset stomach. I hadn't had time to get my usual running food, so forced down a sesame bar which repeated on me very quickly. This reduced me to a walk on an interminable series of forest tracks where I really suffered. From here, it was all downhill - metaphorically if not always literally. Scores of runners, and horses, passed me towards the end, which was rather demoralising. The last couple of miles, through bog, then tarmac, then a deep river crossing, were not very pleasant and reminded me of the way I felt in my early marathons and early attempts at long fell races more than a decade ago.
Time/Position: 3.18.31 (82nd from 657)
This is another one of those classic events missing from my 'CV', but as with the Yorkshire Three Peaks in April I did not cover myself in glory today: just didn't have sufficient mileage in my legs to keep it going towards the end. In fact, the wheels fell off in time-honoured fashion when I still had five (rather distressing) miles to go. Light drizzle as Jez and I waited in Llanwrtyd Wells for the start: my first time here since doing the almost equally legendary Real Ale Wobble mountain bike loop 12 or so years ago. The rain stayed fairly light, but fell continuously all day. As a result, we kept cool but it was very boggy underfoot at times. A nice atmosphere as we left the Neuadd Arms and headed up the Irfon valley. The route is very complex and very varied, but is essentially a giant loop around the valley taking in some fairly wild mountain terrain at times. A sharp climb up a track after a couple of miles set the scene. It was followed by some narrow, boggy tracks high up on the eastern slopes of the valley. I felt pretty good, and went through the first checkpoint well up the field in just over 50 minutes. I was passed by two horses on a long inclining track, but didn't see any more until high up in the hills near Abergwesyn. I continued to feel pretty good through the second checkpoint, and although horses and relay runners were mixed up with the 500 or so doing the full distance, I felt I was well up the field at this point. However, with about five miles to go the distance and difficulty of the terrain began to take its toll: as did my old bugbear, an upset stomach. I hadn't had time to get my usual running food, so forced down a sesame bar which repeated on me very quickly. This reduced me to a walk on an interminable series of forest tracks where I really suffered. From here, it was all downhill - metaphorically if not always literally. Scores of runners, and horses, passed me towards the end, which was rather demoralising. The last couple of miles, through bog, then tarmac, then a deep river crossing, were not very pleasant and reminded me of the way I felt in my early marathons and early attempts at long fell races more than a decade ago.
Thursday, June 11, 2015
Craig y Forwyn climbing
Crag: Craig y Forwyn
Routes: Anne (S 4a:led), Larks a Bumbly (HS 4b:led), Kiwi (VS 4b:sec), Arian (HS 4b:led), Arian Direct (HVS 5a:sec), Wall/Superdirect Finish (E1 5b:sec), Golden Gate (D:led)
The 'banned crag' which has always had a kind of mythical status in my mind: my local crag in many ways, but the supposed 'landowner' withdrew consent just before I started climbing in the late 1980s. Vic and I went there five years ago, after it was realised that only part of the crag was 'owned' by the awkward landlord, only to be shouted down from the classic HVS Sangfroid, on what we understood to be a legal part of the cliff by a quite unbelievably unpleasant individual (presumably the chap that claims to own the central section). It was so unpleasant that it's taken us five years to come back, this time to the left-hand section which, again, is not owned by the uncivil one. We had no problems today, which was just a brief taster of the short but enjoyable routes that characterise this section of cliff. Anne was a vegetated and slabby aperitif, up a narrow pillar of rock. We then both led the splendid corner/groove taken by Larks a Bumbly. This looks hard and very steep from below, somewhat reminiscent of Striptease at Tremadog. In reality, it's just a delightfully simple romp. Well protected moves up a superbly juggy, but steep, corner, lead to more jugs and a perfect footledge to sidle left away from the final overhang, to finish up a short arete. Great route, as was its companion Kiwi, a mild VS to its right. Again, this looks like it has an intimidating finish, but this is an illusion. A rising traverse left, below the bulges on big footholds, leads to a move to circumvent the steepness, then a finish trending back right up a steep exit on big holds. Really nice, interesting climbing at the bottom of the grade. Arian is the other classic on this section of crag: rather more polished than the others but again recently cleaned, giving really good climbing. Another interesting line too, up a steep right-trending juggy flake which begs to be climbed. Then a step left gains a short traverse, giving access to a clean groove which leads to the top. Again, solid and varied: no more than 20m, but packing a lot in to a small space! Vic then led the Direct version, which is steep and sustained up to the roof, which needs a butch move to overcome. Inferior to the normal route, I found it quite dusty and unpleasant. I continued up the more technical, nicely contrasting Wall Finish, using the left arete: the sunshine quite hot now, perhaps the hottest day of summer so far. From the crag top, great views over the most tranquil of valleys, very quiet indeed, with the rocks of Llanddulas further left. I had to finish early, so after abbing back down for fifth time, we donned our big sacs and I led out up a pleasant Diff, taking the outside of an obvious chimney, by way of a mountaineering exit route. Nice to sample another tiny slice of the climbing at this crag. It has always felt political to me, and still does: one day we will get access to the real classics!
Routes: Anne (S 4a:led), Larks a Bumbly (HS 4b:led), Kiwi (VS 4b:sec), Arian (HS 4b:led), Arian Direct (HVS 5a:sec), Wall/Superdirect Finish (E1 5b:sec), Golden Gate (D:led)
The 'banned crag' which has always had a kind of mythical status in my mind: my local crag in many ways, but the supposed 'landowner' withdrew consent just before I started climbing in the late 1980s. Vic and I went there five years ago, after it was realised that only part of the crag was 'owned' by the awkward landlord, only to be shouted down from the classic HVS Sangfroid, on what we understood to be a legal part of the cliff by a quite unbelievably unpleasant individual (presumably the chap that claims to own the central section). It was so unpleasant that it's taken us five years to come back, this time to the left-hand section which, again, is not owned by the uncivil one. We had no problems today, which was just a brief taster of the short but enjoyable routes that characterise this section of cliff. Anne was a vegetated and slabby aperitif, up a narrow pillar of rock. We then both led the splendid corner/groove taken by Larks a Bumbly. This looks hard and very steep from below, somewhat reminiscent of Striptease at Tremadog. In reality, it's just a delightfully simple romp. Well protected moves up a superbly juggy, but steep, corner, lead to more jugs and a perfect footledge to sidle left away from the final overhang, to finish up a short arete. Great route, as was its companion Kiwi, a mild VS to its right. Again, this looks like it has an intimidating finish, but this is an illusion. A rising traverse left, below the bulges on big footholds, leads to a move to circumvent the steepness, then a finish trending back right up a steep exit on big holds. Really nice, interesting climbing at the bottom of the grade. Arian is the other classic on this section of crag: rather more polished than the others but again recently cleaned, giving really good climbing. Another interesting line too, up a steep right-trending juggy flake which begs to be climbed. Then a step left gains a short traverse, giving access to a clean groove which leads to the top. Again, solid and varied: no more than 20m, but packing a lot in to a small space! Vic then led the Direct version, which is steep and sustained up to the roof, which needs a butch move to overcome. Inferior to the normal route, I found it quite dusty and unpleasant. I continued up the more technical, nicely contrasting Wall Finish, using the left arete: the sunshine quite hot now, perhaps the hottest day of summer so far. From the crag top, great views over the most tranquil of valleys, very quiet indeed, with the rocks of Llanddulas further left. I had to finish early, so after abbing back down for fifth time, we donned our big sacs and I led out up a pleasant Diff, taking the outside of an obvious chimney, by way of a mountaineering exit route. Nice to sample another tiny slice of the climbing at this crag. It has always felt political to me, and still does: one day we will get access to the real classics!
Wednesday, June 10, 2015
The Beast
Race: Up the Beast fell race (4.5m/1500ft)
Time/Position: 48.01 (11th from 94)
I've done every one of these races (eight in total) and this is the first time I've finished outside the top ten. I was third overall not so long ago, but can't see that ever happening again. This is partly because I'm getting slower, but partly because I'm convinced everybody else is getting quicker! I was around a minute down on my best time tonight, although slightly quicker than last year: so not too bad given it was my first short fell race since Rhobell Fawr in November. As a result, recent road races made the early tracks through the woods quite comfortable, but the steep climb up the beast reduced me to a striding walk much earlier than previous years. It was a hot, quite humid evening, and the second climb back up Bryn Alyn is always desperately airless and sweaty. I saved some energy over Bryn Alyn in warm sunshine, then I did start to make up a few places, and finished reasonably strongly on the return through the woods.
Time/Position: 48.01 (11th from 94)
I've done every one of these races (eight in total) and this is the first time I've finished outside the top ten. I was third overall not so long ago, but can't see that ever happening again. This is partly because I'm getting slower, but partly because I'm convinced everybody else is getting quicker! I was around a minute down on my best time tonight, although slightly quicker than last year: so not too bad given it was my first short fell race since Rhobell Fawr in November. As a result, recent road races made the early tracks through the woods quite comfortable, but the steep climb up the beast reduced me to a striding walk much earlier than previous years. It was a hot, quite humid evening, and the second climb back up Bryn Alyn is always desperately airless and sweaty. I saved some energy over Bryn Alyn in warm sunshine, then I did start to make up a few places, and finished reasonably strongly on the return through the woods.
Tuesday, June 09, 2015
Holmfirth bouldering
Crag: Holmfirth Cliff
Routes: Arsenic Slab (font3), Devs (V0), Scarface (V0), Bumbachum (V1), Crimp and Pop (font4), Riblet (font5), Left Crack (font3), Right Crack (font3), Problem 11 (font5+), Spiders (font5+), Crystal Crack (font4), Man Utd Arete (font4), Cock Over (font5+), Pocket Wall (V2), Fist-Sized Crack (font3).
Never my favourite discipline, the idea of recording short boulder problems has always struck me as slightly absurd. A few things were different here, however: first, the problems felt more like miniature routes at times; second, many of them were relatively easy; third, I really enjoyed this crag of quarried grit above the famous town of Holmfirth. It was particularly nice to get some fresh air after a day confined to one room in Huddersfield. Some sun peeking through the clouds and nice views out over town and valley as I located and climbed the four short problems on the left-hand slab. Quite delicate, particularly Bumbachum up the featureless middle of the slab. Really enjoyed going up and down the two easy crack lines further right, which felt like miniature grit Severes and warranted several ascents. The line up the middle was a more technical font 5+ on small flat holds, as was the thought-provoking Spiders, which took thin cracks up a greener wall up to a flat hold then escaped left. The routes further right were quite high, particularly Crystal Crack which was a good strong line but surprisingly dirty and vegetated. Further right again, I did numerous routes, including the high but easy Man Utd Arete, the short and intense Over Cock at font 5+, and the more delicate Pocket Wall, which was a good technical route up a pocketed black wall of friable grit but seemed a little overgraded. Various other routes too, but less obvious lines, and it was difficult to remember them all.
Routes: Arsenic Slab (font3), Devs (V0), Scarface (V0), Bumbachum (V1), Crimp and Pop (font4), Riblet (font5), Left Crack (font3), Right Crack (font3), Problem 11 (font5+), Spiders (font5+), Crystal Crack (font4), Man Utd Arete (font4), Cock Over (font5+), Pocket Wall (V2), Fist-Sized Crack (font3).
Never my favourite discipline, the idea of recording short boulder problems has always struck me as slightly absurd. A few things were different here, however: first, the problems felt more like miniature routes at times; second, many of them were relatively easy; third, I really enjoyed this crag of quarried grit above the famous town of Holmfirth. It was particularly nice to get some fresh air after a day confined to one room in Huddersfield. Some sun peeking through the clouds and nice views out over town and valley as I located and climbed the four short problems on the left-hand slab. Quite delicate, particularly Bumbachum up the featureless middle of the slab. Really enjoyed going up and down the two easy crack lines further right, which felt like miniature grit Severes and warranted several ascents. The line up the middle was a more technical font 5+ on small flat holds, as was the thought-provoking Spiders, which took thin cracks up a greener wall up to a flat hold then escaped left. The routes further right were quite high, particularly Crystal Crack which was a good strong line but surprisingly dirty and vegetated. Further right again, I did numerous routes, including the high but easy Man Utd Arete, the short and intense Over Cock at font 5+, and the more delicate Pocket Wall, which was a good technical route up a pocketed black wall of friable grit but seemed a little overgraded. Various other routes too, but less obvious lines, and it was difficult to remember them all.
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