Col d'Izoard/Col de Vars

Road cycling: Briancon-Col d'Izoard-Guillestre-Col de Vars-Barcelonette
Distance/Climb: 120k/2400m
As an incurable mountaineer, this was the day I really wanted. A complete contrast to the glitzy ski resorts of Alpe d'Huez, the Izoard has a romantic isolation that makes it a true classic. Combined with the Vars to the south, it gave a long and unforgettable day on the bike. What made it even more appealing was the fact that it took me to an area of the Alps I'd never explored, the Queyras. We drove over the Lauteret to Briancon and I started up the Izoard in perfect warm sunshine as Kate drove directly to Guillestre. The climb winds gently through the edge of Briancon to gain a beautiful wooded valley. The road smooth and perfect, hardly any traffic, just the sound of running water. A few short descents broke the rhythm before reaching the old village of Le Laus after which the road swings sharply to the north and climbs past verdant Alpine meadows and crags to pass a tiny ancient hamlet and enter a beautiful pine forest. I passed a few early starters here, although was soon passed myself by an Italian amateur team as I ploughed up the hairpins as the route steepens higher up. Steady and relentless climbing now, with 20k or so of uphill behind, emerging from the trees into a characteristic Queyras landscape of bare rock and jagged pinnacles, anticipating the drama of the Casse Deserte to the south. After the Refuge Napolean, the climb kicks up for a steeper, dramatic climax up more hairpins to the top at 2356m (1:29 from Briancon). A great place, with scores of cyclists and wonderful views south. The descent (usually climbed by the Tour) is superb, steep and twisting at first, then levelling off as it reaches the legendary Casse Deserte, a tremendous landscape of crumbling pinnacles and scree. Surely the finest backdrop to any sporting event anywhere? A short climb leads to more steep hairpins and a very fast descent through forests to the village of Cervieres. Eventually the road levels off at a junction with the route to the Agnel. I continued right through increasingly spectacular scenery as I entered the gorge above the Guil river. Superb scenery throughout, although a headwind made the level riding more difficult than it might have been. I met up with the family in Guillestre and had a short refuelling session on the children's leftovers while we dried the tent. Despite the 60k already covered, I felt OK on the slopes leading out of the village towards the next climb up the Col de Vars: yet another Tour monument. However, it soon became quite hot in the midday sun and there were no trees to give any respite. A long and steep series of hairpins with stunning views north over Pelvoux and the Ecrins made life difficult and I started to suffer for the first time on the trip, dropping into my tiniest gear. Above, a welcome gentle section leads to the village of Vars where I met the family again (Kate drove over the Vars). The rest of the climb is unfortunately a little tame by comparison with the magnificent Izoard as it wends its way through the ski resort above Vars, surprisingly steeply, before easing off for a final section through Alpine meadows to the Col at 2108m. Another exhilerating descent with new views south to the baked Mercantour, Pelat and familiar territory. Fast hairpins down in increasing warmth to the hamlet of St Paul, then a long haul through Jausiers all the way to Barcelonette, where we camped for the night.