Kaisergebirge traverse

Peaks: Hintere Goinger Halt (2192m/7192ft), Vordere Goinger Halt (2242m/7356ft), Stripsenkopf (1807m/5928ft)
Routes: Jubilaumssteig (vB), Angermannweg(uI-), Gratubergang (uII), Eggersteig (vB), Ubungsklettersteig (vC/D)
Area: Kaisergebirge, Tyrol, Austria
A 'mixed' weather forecast provoked me into downscaling my plans for this, the first day of a brief foray into the Austrian Tyrol. A late flight and night in the Munich suburbs meant this was just as well, as it was after 9.30 when I finally got to Wochunbrunner Alm at the southern end of the Kaisergebirge - a compact yet spectacular range of peaks and an obvious first destination from Munich. This traverse was essentially the opposite of what I'd planned, centred on the enormous gateway of Ellmauer Tor. This is such an enormous col, the focal point of the range, that it transcends the term and warrants a different descriptor (hence 'gateway'). The weather, contrary to the forecast, was superb as I set off at a fast pace from the Alm, although very hot and humid. The character of this wonderful range asserts itself immediately as I climbed through dwarf pines on the Ellmauer Weg to emerge on scree slopes to join the Jubilaumssteig traverse path to the Tor. Huge spires of limestone tower on both sides, meaning (rather obviously) that I started to dehydrate through lack of running water. I emerged at the Tor to fantastic views down to the Stripsenjoch through the Steinerne Rinne, which looks utterly unfeasible as a route of descent. But before continuing the traverse and beginning the descent into the void I nipped up the obvious peak of the Hintere Goinger Halt, which is a short scramble away to the northeast from the Tor. A rising traverse leads to a groove with chains before some mild scrambling accesses the small summit. Fabulous views all around and a great way to get my bearings. Across the gulf of the Ellmaeur Tor rises the Karlspitze and beyond that the highpoint of the range: Ellmaeur Halt, which I'd planned for tomorrow. To the east, the Ackerlspitze crowned a long ridge of dazzling white spires. Enjoyable though the Hintere Goinger was, it was obvious that this peak was just a tourist peak and was actually topped by the far more impressive sister peak of the Vordere Goinger Halt which rose above the windgap of the Predigtstuhl Scharte. So I returned to the gap for an attempt at this, spying a tiny path, with a few cairns. This gave an excellent, intricate scramble (research suggests it's called the Gratubergang) up steep grooves and chimneys and traversing across a series of loose couloirs to gain the steep summit slopes and slabby scrambling to the top. The summit book suggested that it is infrequently climbed - it was last signed in June (compared to the dozens that must go up Hintere every day). Superb atmosphere, with the entire range (seemingly) to myself and rock walls and pinnacles rising from the beautiful green meadows of the Tyrol: a memorable summit. I scampered back down to the Tor and began the famous descent of the Eggersteig on the far (northern) side of the Tor. This gets steeper and steeper as you enter the deep cauldron of the Steinerne Rinne, until it drops sharply away between the towering rock walls of the Fleischbank on the western side and Predigstuhl on the east. Chains protect the intricate scrambling, although they weren't really necessary (but I had Ferrata gear just in case). The line takes a series of shelfs and ledges, twisting right and left down the huge couloir until it reaches an exposed traverse cut into the rocks to the west. This leads, superbly atmospherically, to the Wildanger meadows and a final climb to the Stripsenjoch and its eponymous hut: a great spot. I was badly dehydrated so a lunch of cold Zillertal beer and splendid goulash was hugely appreciated. After booking in, I noticed that a Klettersteig (Via Ferrata) made its way up the crags lining the route up to the small peak of the Stripsenkopf which rises above the hut to the north. A perfect way to while away the afternoon (the Ubungklettersteig). The first section climbs the Hundskopf, a little pinnacled crag above the hut, via a groove and steep wall. After a walk, the second section traverses left before a steep arete finish, while the final section is also steep and finishes below the summit shelter. Having once had a two-week Via Ferrata holiday in the Dolomites in 1996, I've never done another one, finding the metalwork and whole experience a bit weird and unsatisfactory compared to proper climbing - but they are good fun in some circumstances (still weird though, especially this one!). I rested on the summit of the Stripsenkopf, relishing the scenic contrast between the 1000m rock walls of the Wilder Kaiser to the south and the verdant green meadows of the Tamer Kaiser to the north. Some cloud as I sauntered down to the hut, but this soon dissolved to leave a perfect sunny evening. Just glorious on the hut terrace, eating my bergsteigeressen, drinking wheat beer, and looking out over the vast sunlit crags of the Fleischbank and Totenkirchl.