Peaks: Sgorr Dhonuill (1024m), Sgorr Dhearg (1001m), Sgorr Bhan (947m)
Area: Beinn a'Bheithir, Central Highlands
This shapely massif is nicely poised above Loch Leven and lends itself to a fine traverse. Kate dropped me off at the car park in Gleann a'Chaolais and I ran through the conifer forests which spoil the northern slopes of the massif, promising to meet them the standard two hours later in Ballachulish itself. I was last here in 1989, when I failed to find the way through the forests. Now, it is all much clearer, and nicely runnable - which meant I gained the broad gully above the trees in less than half an hour of running. This leads steeply up Coire Dearg to gain an awkward shifting scree funnel. Steep, loose and tiring, and the whaleback ridge above is slightly disappointing. After around 1k of gentle uphill trotting, however, I gained the summit of Sgorr Dhonuill in 58m (these hour-long Munro climbs have become a familiar holiday theme). This has famously excellent seaward views, poised as it is above Loch Leven, Ardgour and Lismore. Sadly, it was a little hazy with high clouds after a crystal clear morning. Still, onward prospects looked superb. A surprisingly rocky and exposed ridge (for a few metres) leads from Dhonuill down to a pronounced col. The ridge stays well defined throughout, though broad, and leads quickly to the summit of Sgorr Dearg, the companion peak and second Munro. From here, I was pleased to see that the onward traverse over the sub-peak of Sgorr Bhan looked well worthwhile - a beautiful and aesthetically pleasing curving ridge, set off by the remains of a large snowfield and cornice. Tremendous running down this beautiful ridge, with views directly ahead opening out over Bidean nam Bian, Aonach Eagach and the other peaks of Glencoe. From Sgorr Ban, I should have headed east down a spur to the valley but instead followed the excellent ridge of Ben Ban - poised directly above Ballachullish with good views over to the Mamores and Ben Nevis. The path then contoured unhelpfully round and back up the valley, losing me valuable time! So I left it and bushwhacked down through bog and heather to emerge at the village school: met the family in a cafe around 2:22 after leaving Gleann a'Chaolais, a very enjoyable traverse. A tranquil afternoon on Lismore followed.
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