Routes: Jason and the Aga Nuts (f5:led), Leo Saw Us Rex (f4:sec), 36 Bolts to Happiness (f5:led), Siamber Wen (f3:sec), Llywelyn ap Gruffydd to Neil Crud (f6b:led), Isabella Rose (f6a:sec), The Purple Ladies Versus Godzilla (f6a:led), Tegengle (f6a:sec), Genesis (f6b+:led)
A surprisingly competent and efficient sweep of every route on the slab in a couple of hours. Our short evening visit concluded with a clean 6b+ lead of the oldest and best line here, Genesis. Shamefully, this grade has always (since the age of 20) represented my absolute leading limit, so I was rather surprised to manage it after eight months away from all climbing (except last Friday!). That said, it feels to me that all the routes here are slightly overgraded given that the French system is supposed to reflect overall difficulty rather than merely the technical crux: they are certainly generous, although technical slabs are always more flatteringly graded than pumpy steepness. Vic and I began with mileage on the easy short routes right of the main face, up and down a few times. I then led the longest line on the crag, a surprisingly fine 20m+ f6b up the far left of the main slab. Neatly sustained, with a few nice technical moves on small positive holds - delicate and absorbing in places, particularly where the route steepens at a little overlap. More like 6a+ though. The loose groove line to the right looks awful, and is indeed a tad unstable, but it gives some surprisingly enjoyable crisp technical moves at f6a: we both quite enjoyed it. I led the overgraded 6a up the vague right-hand arete, a good climb, and seconded its twin route Tegengle. It was then time for Genesis, which was for many years the only route here at E3 (now retro-bolted). It embraces the main challenge of the slab, straight up a blank steep slab of compact limestone. The excellent friction, unusual for British limestone, means that it is easier than it looks. It goes easily via some huge pockets up to a steepening. Then some technical moves on small positive crimps lead to an awkward crux with a difficult clip: luckily my right-hand had a decent crimp and my feet were high up on crystals, so I could clip the bolt cleanly with my much weaker left hand! One more hard move gains a couple of finishing jugs. Good climb, but again probably 6b at the most. Nice to clean up the slab after my first visit last year left 'unfinished business'. The sun finally came out as we packed the gear away.
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