Road Cycling: Wild Wales Challenge (Bala-Bwlch y Groes-Dinas Mawddwy-Aberllefenni-Corris-Machynlleth-Tywyn-Llwyngwril-Cregennen-Dolgellau-Brithdir-Bala)
Distance/Climb: 90m/8500ft
As with last year's event, this superb day out proved that I am wrong to think I know North Wales like the back of my hand! Some highly obscure roads and wonderful riding. Having only done one short training ride (the Tour de Flintshire), I was a little concerned about my bike fitness. Although last year's route was longer, I was at least bike fit after the Alps. This year, we left Bala with some mist and high cloud around. Along the side of Llyn Tegid then up the easy side of Bwlch y Groes above Cwm Cynllwyd. I've done this climb before and really enjoy it. It is gentler, with several flatter sections, and far less sustained than the desperate Mawddwy side (down which we had to descend). I waited for Vic and friends to reach the Bwlch, then set off as I was keen to get a clear run at the steep and dangerous descent down to Dinas Mawddwy. After a brief respite, the road headed from Aberangell up impossibly obscure roads through the Dyfi forest. A very hard climb followed, with superb views of Cader Idris higher up. This was really energy-sapping and completely unexpected (for me). After Corris, more sharp climbs on the minor road past the Centre for Alternative Technology led eventually to the first feed and checkpoint in Machynlleth. After a nice rest, we headed to Tywyn, taking the inevitable turn away from the main road and on to the hilly route through 'Happy Valley'. This has another climb, culminating in brief Alpine style hairpins, before a scenic and fast descent to Tywyn. I went straight to the Race the Train HQ - wrongly - then spent a frustrating few minutes looking for the town hall and lunch stop. From here, I teamed up with Vic and friends for a brief flat coastal stretch heading north towards Rhoslefain. Tiny roads and another steep climb led up the hillside, with increasingly wonderful views over the sea to Llyn. The roads became tracks, almost wide paths, more suitable for mountain bikes for a while. Then a very steep descent lost all the height gain in a matter of minutes, down to Llwyngwril. The crux came shortly afterwards: a desperate and quite lengthy climb, very steep, inland to gain a high and very narrow road overlooking the Mawddach estuary. Quite beautiful, but tiring. We were rewarded with a superb descent, eventually, past Cregennan lakes with views of Cader and Tyrrau Mawr above. For me, the lowpoint came after we past the Gwernan car park familiar from Ras y Gader. We didn't take a direct route to the third and final feed and checkpoint at Brithdir. Instead, little roads through beautiful ancient woodland led down to the edge of Dolgellau at Tyddyn Ednyfed and yet another hard climb to Tabor. Brithdir was a relief, and the final stretch was easy by comparison. This took yet another obscure and narrow road, gently climbing to Pont Rhyd y Gwais. Then superb riding back to Llanuchllyn, working as a mini-peloton and eating up the miles back to Bala. It is a classic event, uncommercial and low-key, and although the route was marginally easier than last year's epic anniversary special, it felt just as hard to me as I had no bike fitness at all this year! The route planners have an admirable knowledge of minor Welsh roads and an eye for a logical yet challenging giant loop.
A self-indulgent journal of pointless adventures in mountain sports and all forms of distance running and racing.
Sunday, August 30, 2015
Wednesday, August 26, 2015
Creigiau Cigfran/Penmaenhead climbing
Crag: Creigiau Cigfran, Llanfairfechan
Routes: Don't Fence Me In (f5c:led), Blue Streak (f5c:led), The Last Waltz (f6a:led), The Great Wall (f6b:led/sec), Wellington Rib (VD:sol), Great Grass Gully (VD:des)
Crag: Penmaenhead, Colwyn Bay
Routes: Helyg Crack (f6a:led*), Intruder (f5+:sec)
I've driven past these crags hundreds of times, probably thousands, and have often wondered whether they would be worth a visit. As it happens, several people must have had the same idea as some recent bolting has occurred, to supplement a few of the obvious easy lines done many years ago. It seems likely to remain fairly obscure, however, as the crags are scattered around the hillside above Llanfairfechan and not particularly easy to find. It took us a while, but we eventually emerged above the scree near Fence Buttress, a 20m high slab of microdiorite which looked like a decent enough place to start. This slab gave two lovely climbs on good rock, surprisingly good and rather reminiscent of Tremadog VS's in style (albeit a poor man's Tremadog!). The left-hand line took a scrappy groove up to a steep slab. Delightful moves up this on small positive holds led to a flake, then a leftward trending finish up an open groove. Some light rain, but fine rough rock and good friction. The right-hand line (Blue Streak) was perhaps slightly better: a similarly simple route with lovely relaxed slab climbing, a little more open position up the slab to finish in the same place. Vic and I both led both routes. After a heavy shower while we ate our lunch, we moved further left to the main wall. The rock here is smoother, not as good, closer in slatey style to nearby Penmaenbach. I scampered up the Last Waltz at a mild f6a: nice, clean slabby climbing with a thought-provoking and quite technical (but brief) crux step left half way up. The Great Wall is obvious, but takes a devious line up the 30m high main face. It gives an unusual sports route, weaving round and demanding a variety of different climbing styles. Vic led, and negotiated the crux moves round the obvious early overhang, but he ran out of quickdraws and lowered off from the junction with the 6c direct version of the route. I followed up, a tricky step left and 6b moves through the bulge, and led through the indirect and devious left-hand finish. Some rests broke up the technicality: low in the grade. An easier finish, with some rope drag. The hangers were missing from the lower-off, and I wasn't prepared to lower off a single, badly placed bolt. So I found a sound bolt higher up the direct line and brought Vic up. We descended through gorse, then I nipped up the old V Diff line taking the clean rib: fun. Then it was across to the more familiar Penmaenhead for something a bit steeper. A short descent to the crag with more rain threatening, so I kicked off with the steep and sustained Helyg Crack. Hard to start, with an awkward bridging move to gain the badly placed second bolt. Above, an easier section leads to a rest. I took the top section too far left, lured by the wrong lower-off (should have checked the topo first). I needed a rest as a result - annoying. The actual line remains steep and polished, but is on good juggy holds. A good, sustained route. I then followed Vic up the easier Intruder, which I've done before. This is also steep and sustained, but very juggy: some superb holds.
Routes: Don't Fence Me In (f5c:led), Blue Streak (f5c:led), The Last Waltz (f6a:led), The Great Wall (f6b:led/sec), Wellington Rib (VD:sol), Great Grass Gully (VD:des)
Crag: Penmaenhead, Colwyn Bay
Routes: Helyg Crack (f6a:led*), Intruder (f5+:sec)
I've driven past these crags hundreds of times, probably thousands, and have often wondered whether they would be worth a visit. As it happens, several people must have had the same idea as some recent bolting has occurred, to supplement a few of the obvious easy lines done many years ago. It seems likely to remain fairly obscure, however, as the crags are scattered around the hillside above Llanfairfechan and not particularly easy to find. It took us a while, but we eventually emerged above the scree near Fence Buttress, a 20m high slab of microdiorite which looked like a decent enough place to start. This slab gave two lovely climbs on good rock, surprisingly good and rather reminiscent of Tremadog VS's in style (albeit a poor man's Tremadog!). The left-hand line took a scrappy groove up to a steep slab. Delightful moves up this on small positive holds led to a flake, then a leftward trending finish up an open groove. Some light rain, but fine rough rock and good friction. The right-hand line (Blue Streak) was perhaps slightly better: a similarly simple route with lovely relaxed slab climbing, a little more open position up the slab to finish in the same place. Vic and I both led both routes. After a heavy shower while we ate our lunch, we moved further left to the main wall. The rock here is smoother, not as good, closer in slatey style to nearby Penmaenbach. I scampered up the Last Waltz at a mild f6a: nice, clean slabby climbing with a thought-provoking and quite technical (but brief) crux step left half way up. The Great Wall is obvious, but takes a devious line up the 30m high main face. It gives an unusual sports route, weaving round and demanding a variety of different climbing styles. Vic led, and negotiated the crux moves round the obvious early overhang, but he ran out of quickdraws and lowered off from the junction with the 6c direct version of the route. I followed up, a tricky step left and 6b moves through the bulge, and led through the indirect and devious left-hand finish. Some rests broke up the technicality: low in the grade. An easier finish, with some rope drag. The hangers were missing from the lower-off, and I wasn't prepared to lower off a single, badly placed bolt. So I found a sound bolt higher up the direct line and brought Vic up. We descended through gorse, then I nipped up the old V Diff line taking the clean rib: fun. Then it was across to the more familiar Penmaenhead for something a bit steeper. A short descent to the crag with more rain threatening, so I kicked off with the steep and sustained Helyg Crack. Hard to start, with an awkward bridging move to gain the badly placed second bolt. Above, an easier section leads to a rest. I took the top section too far left, lured by the wrong lower-off (should have checked the topo first). I needed a rest as a result - annoying. The actual line remains steep and polished, but is on good juggy holds. A good, sustained route. I then followed Vic up the easier Intruder, which I've done before. This is also steep and sustained, but very juggy: some superb holds.
Sunday, August 23, 2015
Birchwood 10k
Race: Birchwood 10k (Warrington)
Time/Position: 37.49 (27th from 900 [3rd V45])
My slowest 10k time for nine years. I wouldn't normally have done this, as I don't normally make the transition from mountain to road until much later in the year, but it goes past my workplace on the Warrington campus and could obviously be combined with an IKEA trip for the family. I expected to suffer a little bit, but certainly didn't anticipate such a bad race. Felt awful for the last 5k and completely fell to pieces after a decent first 5k (17.30 for the first 5k, over 20 minutes for the second 5k!). A good event though: well organised and probably quite a fast course if you have the legs, with just a few motorway bridges to negotiate.
Time/Position: 37.49 (27th from 900 [3rd V45])
My slowest 10k time for nine years. I wouldn't normally have done this, as I don't normally make the transition from mountain to road until much later in the year, but it goes past my workplace on the Warrington campus and could obviously be combined with an IKEA trip for the family. I expected to suffer a little bit, but certainly didn't anticipate such a bad race. Felt awful for the last 5k and completely fell to pieces after a decent first 5k (17.30 for the first 5k, over 20 minutes for the second 5k!). A good event though: well organised and probably quite a fast course if you have the legs, with just a few motorway bridges to negotiate.
Thursday, August 20, 2015
Tour de Flintshire
Road Cycling: HK-Buckley-Rhosesmor-Babell-Gorsedd-Rhuallt-St Asaph-Llandyrnog-Moel Arthur-Mold-HK
Distance: 100k+
Satisfying to weave the two Flintshire 'end-to-end' routes I'd worked out over the last few weeks into this, the inaugural Tour de Flintshire! Still needs some refinement and improvement, but this initial version gave a varied and excellent ride. From home I headed through Buckley and Sychdyn and up the short, steep climbs to Rhosesmor. Then over on wonderful quiet roads to Rhes y Cae (although not before making yet another erroneous detour: there are just no signposts up here!). From Lixwm and Babell, I headed north of the A55 on an extension to Gorsedd and Lloc which shows off another aspect of the county, with views over the Dee estuary to Wirral. Along the unpleasant Dyserth road, but only briefly before heading inland towards Cwm then back over the A55 to the old Rhuallt Hill and down to St Asaph via Pont Dafydd. After a superb feeding halt (thanks mum!) it was along the main road to Bodfari and Llandyrnog, and then the crux climb over the Clwydian ridge at Moel Arthur. This features in the '100 great British cycle climbs' book and fully warrants its place. It goes steeply up to a brutal 20% ramp, with a terrible rutted surface. A few minutes of pain, out of the saddle the whole way, before it eases for the last section to the bwlch between Famau and Arthur. I may have done it from this harder side before on a mountain bike, and have done it numerous times from the gentler eastern side. It adds a brilliant extra dimension to the Tour; a completely different ambience to the landscape further north. From here, a fast descent to Hendre and Mold, then back to Kinnerton. It would be nice to refine it further to take in some more notable Flintshire landmarks as well as some places of personal significance (and also to further minimise the main roads). So perhaps go further north from Lloc to take in Maen Achwyfan then Gwaenysgor and Dyserth before reaching St Asaph. Then, on the second leg, head off to Cilcain after the climb, then through Gwernaffield before reaching Mold and the homeward leg.
Distance: 100k+
Satisfying to weave the two Flintshire 'end-to-end' routes I'd worked out over the last few weeks into this, the inaugural Tour de Flintshire! Still needs some refinement and improvement, but this initial version gave a varied and excellent ride. From home I headed through Buckley and Sychdyn and up the short, steep climbs to Rhosesmor. Then over on wonderful quiet roads to Rhes y Cae (although not before making yet another erroneous detour: there are just no signposts up here!). From Lixwm and Babell, I headed north of the A55 on an extension to Gorsedd and Lloc which shows off another aspect of the county, with views over the Dee estuary to Wirral. Along the unpleasant Dyserth road, but only briefly before heading inland towards Cwm then back over the A55 to the old Rhuallt Hill and down to St Asaph via Pont Dafydd. After a superb feeding halt (thanks mum!) it was along the main road to Bodfari and Llandyrnog, and then the crux climb over the Clwydian ridge at Moel Arthur. This features in the '100 great British cycle climbs' book and fully warrants its place. It goes steeply up to a brutal 20% ramp, with a terrible rutted surface. A few minutes of pain, out of the saddle the whole way, before it eases for the last section to the bwlch between Famau and Arthur. I may have done it from this harder side before on a mountain bike, and have done it numerous times from the gentler eastern side. It adds a brilliant extra dimension to the Tour; a completely different ambience to the landscape further north. From here, a fast descent to Hendre and Mold, then back to Kinnerton. It would be nice to refine it further to take in some more notable Flintshire landmarks as well as some places of personal significance (and also to further minimise the main roads). So perhaps go further north from Lloc to take in Maen Achwyfan then Gwaenysgor and Dyserth before reaching St Asaph. Then, on the second leg, head off to Cilcain after the climb, then through Gwernaffield before reaching Mold and the homeward leg.
Tuesday, August 18, 2015
Maeshafn climbing
Crag: Maeshafn
Routes: The Bulger (HVS 5a:sh), Bulger Variant (HVS 5a:sh), Little Finger Jam (VS 5b:sh), Sling Variant (HS:des), Dandy Lion (HS 4b:sh), Sling (HS 4b:sh), Wanderer (VS 4c:sh), The Arete (VS 5a:sh)
On my own again, so I decided to sweep the entire amphitheatre wall on the shunt as quickly as I could without resting, as time was limited and I was here for 'training purposes' only. I've led all these routes in the past and done them many times, so I did the Bulger twice (once up an eliminate line to the left, avoiding the crack where possible). Little Finger Jam has always had a horrible start, but it is now polished and even harder. I came in from the left on a loose shunt. Then descended Sling and went up it by another eliminate avoiding the big holds. Further right, The Arete gives a slightly longer route and was good fun alongside its easier neighbour. Jogged back over Moel Findeg in beautiful weather to my car, which I'd left in the village.
Routes: The Bulger (HVS 5a:sh), Bulger Variant (HVS 5a:sh), Little Finger Jam (VS 5b:sh), Sling Variant (HS:des), Dandy Lion (HS 4b:sh), Sling (HS 4b:sh), Wanderer (VS 4c:sh), The Arete (VS 5a:sh)
On my own again, so I decided to sweep the entire amphitheatre wall on the shunt as quickly as I could without resting, as time was limited and I was here for 'training purposes' only. I've led all these routes in the past and done them many times, so I did the Bulger twice (once up an eliminate line to the left, avoiding the crack where possible). Little Finger Jam has always had a horrible start, but it is now polished and even harder. I came in from the left on a loose shunt. Then descended Sling and went up it by another eliminate avoiding the big holds. Further right, The Arete gives a slightly longer route and was good fun alongside its easier neighbour. Jogged back over Moel Findeg in beautiful weather to my car, which I'd left in the village.
Monday, August 17, 2015
Carneddau run
Peaks: Drum, Foel Fras, Yr Orsedd, Pen Bryn Du, Foel Ganol
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
It seemed possible that this would be the last opportunity for an evening run in Snowdonia this summer, and the weather looked perfect, so Jez and I headed over for some 'Ben Nevis training' now we've both got a place in the race. The long climb from the coast, an extension of the normal race route, is ideal for that purpose although my legs were rather tired after the last two days. We kept a reasonable pace ticking over on the steep tarmac leading up from Aber, but it was with some relief that we gained the contouring bridleway which leads to Bwlch y Ddeufaen. The evening was developing perfectly: superb clarity of light as the sun began to drop over Anglesey. We stuck to the race route, over Drum, then the short descent before the boggy climb up Foel Fras. I usually walk most of this, and today was no exception - tired and dehydrated. We relaxed a bit at the summit of Foel Fras, great views over the rest of the Carneddau. A brilliant descent followed, as I took Jez over one of the my favourite corners of Eryri - the little known ridge over Yr Orsedd and Foel Ganol. The light was fantastic on this section as the sun dropped further. We took a direct line back to the top of the tarmac - must admit that I was tiring on the road run back through Aber.
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
It seemed possible that this would be the last opportunity for an evening run in Snowdonia this summer, and the weather looked perfect, so Jez and I headed over for some 'Ben Nevis training' now we've both got a place in the race. The long climb from the coast, an extension of the normal race route, is ideal for that purpose although my legs were rather tired after the last two days. We kept a reasonable pace ticking over on the steep tarmac leading up from Aber, but it was with some relief that we gained the contouring bridleway which leads to Bwlch y Ddeufaen. The evening was developing perfectly: superb clarity of light as the sun began to drop over Anglesey. We stuck to the race route, over Drum, then the short descent before the boggy climb up Foel Fras. I usually walk most of this, and today was no exception - tired and dehydrated. We relaxed a bit at the summit of Foel Fras, great views over the rest of the Carneddau. A brilliant descent followed, as I took Jez over one of the my favourite corners of Eryri - the little known ridge over Yr Orsedd and Foel Ganol. The light was fantastic on this section as the sun dropped further. We took a direct line back to the top of the tarmac - must admit that I was tiring on the road run back through Aber.
Sunday, August 16, 2015
Flintshire traverse
Road Cycling: Higher Kinnerton-Buckley-Sychdyn-Halkyn-Rhes y Cae-Lixwm-Babell-Caerwys-Tremeirchion-St Asaph
Distance: 60k
A more refined and geographically accurate version of the Flintshire end-to-end route I did a fortnight ago. Now I just need to weave the two together for a logical and elegant Tour de Flintshire. As I cycled inland from Sychdyn, I racked the darkest recesses of my brain to remember the layout of these tiny lanes which used to be my training ground when I lived in the village. This worked, just, and I emerged in Rhosesmor in beautiful sunshine after a series of very sharp climbs which brought back memories of tough runs. From here, I did a loop round Moel y Gaer, then down to Halkyn and along a superb moorland road to Rhes y Cae. We used to sledge here: great views and a very interesting post-industrial landscape. From here, the hinterland is characterised by a series of twisting and hard-to-follow lanes. I had no map, so guessed the onward route through Lixwm and Babell. From here, a lengthy diversion to Cilcain down tiny rutted tracks and onwards to Tremeirchion. Then a fast and enjoyable descent to St Asaph for lunch.
Distance: 60k
A more refined and geographically accurate version of the Flintshire end-to-end route I did a fortnight ago. Now I just need to weave the two together for a logical and elegant Tour de Flintshire. As I cycled inland from Sychdyn, I racked the darkest recesses of my brain to remember the layout of these tiny lanes which used to be my training ground when I lived in the village. This worked, just, and I emerged in Rhosesmor in beautiful sunshine after a series of very sharp climbs which brought back memories of tough runs. From here, I did a loop round Moel y Gaer, then down to Halkyn and along a superb moorland road to Rhes y Cae. We used to sledge here: great views and a very interesting post-industrial landscape. From here, the hinterland is characterised by a series of twisting and hard-to-follow lanes. I had no map, so guessed the onward route through Lixwm and Babell. From here, a lengthy diversion to Cilcain down tiny rutted tracks and onwards to Tremeirchion. Then a fast and enjoyable descent to St Asaph for lunch.
Saturday, August 15, 2015
Sticklepath Horseshoe fell race
Race: Sticklepath Horseshoe, Dartmoor (9.7m/1700ft)
Peaks: Belstone Tor, Oke Tor, Steeperton Tor, Cosdon Beacon)
Time/Position: 1.25.45 (5th from 40)
Peaks: Belstone Tor, Oke Tor, Steeperton Tor, Cosdon Beacon)
Time/Position: 1.25.45 (5th from 40)
You might expect the landscape that
inspired the Hound of the Baskervilles to play host to some decent fell races. It does indeed, and the Sticklepath Horseshoe is perhaps the best and longest
established of all the Dartmoor events. The route is a classic horseshoe, just shy
of 10 miles, over four distinct summits. It doesn’t have much climbing in
comparison to a typical Welsh or Lake District mountain race, but this Devon
terrain is surprisingly awkward: a mixture of bog and boulders in places. The local runners and organisers were a
very welcoming bunch, and the field was
small, but drawn from a good range of South-West English clubs. After a loop around fields near the
picture-postcard thatched village of Sticklepath, we headed up steep tracks to
the equally scenic Devon village of Belstone and the first checkpoint. A group
of five of us broke away from the rest of the field after half a mile. At
Belstone, this little group also began to fragment. Two lead runners, much
quicker than me, flew up the first real summit (Belstone Tor: already reccied with the family 11 days ago) with me hanging
on to the back of two slightly slower local runners. I stayed with a guy from
the local Okehampton club until the top of Belstone Tor, desperately trying to
stick with him as he knew all the best lines. But at the summit he pelted away
and I couldn’t match his pace so reverted to my usual ponderous plod, with
nobody visible behind. Only then did I notice that the four
runners in front of me had all dispensed with map and kit: I suddenly felt
handicapped by my old bumbag, full waterproofs, map and compass. A superbly runnable ridge followed, all the
way over Oke Tor to the top of the remote Steeperton Tor. As its name seems to suggest, a
sharp descent into a gorge follows, before a hands-and-knees climb to the top
of the next peak. I momentarily thought I might catch the two lads in front at
this point, but soon conceded defeat as I slowed for the long final climb over the
highpoint of Cosdon Beacon. The final descent was confusing for a
non-local, and I made two minor errors, but they didn’t cost me too much time
and I finished in fifth place in 1:25. I finished in a similar position in the
big-field Tywardraeth Trotter race during our last Cornish holiday two years
ago. No chance of staying for prize giving or
enjoying the homemade flapjacks though. My impatient offspring then insisted I
get straight in the car and drive five hours home to Flintshire in my running
shorts, Devonian mud still plastered to my legs.
Tuesday, August 11, 2015
Trewavas Head climbing
Crag: Trewavas Head, Cornwall
Routes: Joy (S 4a:sol/sh), Mascara (VS 4c:sh), Mouseproof (S:sol), Sancho (VD:sol/sh)
I have only had one proper climbing trip to Cornwall, and that was way back in 1995 when Tim and I ticked numerous classics on the most famous crags of Bosigran, Chair Ladder, Land's End and Sennen. As a result, my knowledge is patchy and there are huge gaps and hundreds of crags that I haven't even visited. In the case of Trewavas Head, I'd never even heard of it. But, given that I was regrettably alone and limited to single pitch accessible venues, it was absolutely ideal. No more than 25 minutes from Coverack by car early in the morning, but with an entirely different atmosphere, more like North Cornwall: a granite crag above the sea. It's not a standard sea cliff though, as it is easy to get to: just a mile or so of pleasant walking along the coast path from the beautiful cove at Rinsey. It took a while to get my bearings, as I had no guidebook, but I soon worked out the line taken by Joy, even from a vague description. I did it partially on a loose shunt, as it has a distinct crux a third of the way up, involving a pull round a mildly overhanging block to gain delightful simple cracks leading to the top. A lovely route on perfect granite. Slightly wet lower down after recent rain. Mascara is a very similar line immediately left, almost Joy's mirror image, but two grades harder and considerably better. It also goes easily up to an obvious crux. This time, awkward moves out right on small holds lead to a few steep pulls in a good position (awkward on the shunt). The climbing then gets easier but stays interesting until a steep and rounded finish. Excellent route. Mouseproof took a juggy wall then a slabby arete much further left, while Sancho was an easier route up a left-slanting crack on good holds. All these routes were on perfect rough granite, poised above the sea but a friendly venue ideal in the circumstances. I would have liked to stay longer but wanted to be back by 10am for a trip to the Harbour Lights cafe, so ran back along the coast path to Rinsey.
Routes: Joy (S 4a:sol/sh), Mascara (VS 4c:sh), Mouseproof (S:sol), Sancho (VD:sol/sh)
I have only had one proper climbing trip to Cornwall, and that was way back in 1995 when Tim and I ticked numerous classics on the most famous crags of Bosigran, Chair Ladder, Land's End and Sennen. As a result, my knowledge is patchy and there are huge gaps and hundreds of crags that I haven't even visited. In the case of Trewavas Head, I'd never even heard of it. But, given that I was regrettably alone and limited to single pitch accessible venues, it was absolutely ideal. No more than 25 minutes from Coverack by car early in the morning, but with an entirely different atmosphere, more like North Cornwall: a granite crag above the sea. It's not a standard sea cliff though, as it is easy to get to: just a mile or so of pleasant walking along the coast path from the beautiful cove at Rinsey. It took a while to get my bearings, as I had no guidebook, but I soon worked out the line taken by Joy, even from a vague description. I did it partially on a loose shunt, as it has a distinct crux a third of the way up, involving a pull round a mildly overhanging block to gain delightful simple cracks leading to the top. A lovely route on perfect granite. Slightly wet lower down after recent rain. Mascara is a very similar line immediately left, almost Joy's mirror image, but two grades harder and considerably better. It also goes easily up to an obvious crux. This time, awkward moves out right on small holds lead to a few steep pulls in a good position (awkward on the shunt). The climbing then gets easier but stays interesting until a steep and rounded finish. Excellent route. Mouseproof took a juggy wall then a slabby arete much further left, while Sancho was an easier route up a left-slanting crack on good holds. All these routes were on perfect rough granite, poised above the sea but a friendly venue ideal in the circumstances. I would have liked to stay longer but wanted to be back by 10am for a trip to the Harbour Lights cafe, so ran back along the coast path to Rinsey.
Monday, August 10, 2015
Coverack climbing
Crag: The Grove, Cornwall
Routes: The Indian Queen (HS 4b+:sh), Big Chief (HS 4b:sh)
Despite myself, I returned to the Grove the evening after my first visit to do the other two routes. Needless to say, M declined to return after a superb day of boarding at Poldubh, so I jogged from Coverack. The crag is so small (in breadth, not just height) that these three routes are the only possibilities. Having said all that, the arete of Big Chief was actually a nice climb. It was replete with green lichen, inevitably, but gives a series of good moves up an obvious 10m arete line. The route to its left fills the gap and seemed a tad undergraded. A steep start up a fine flake crack leads to moves along the flake to the right than a steep juggy finish. Looked like this route had been recently cleaned: might just warrant VS. I doubt these routes get more than a couple of ascents a year: Bosigran is a little more appealing!
Routes: The Indian Queen (HS 4b+:sh), Big Chief (HS 4b:sh)
Despite myself, I returned to the Grove the evening after my first visit to do the other two routes. Needless to say, M declined to return after a superb day of boarding at Poldubh, so I jogged from Coverack. The crag is so small (in breadth, not just height) that these three routes are the only possibilities. Having said all that, the arete of Big Chief was actually a nice climb. It was replete with green lichen, inevitably, but gives a series of good moves up an obvious 10m arete line. The route to its left fills the gap and seemed a tad undergraded. A steep start up a fine flake crack leads to moves along the flake to the right than a steep juggy finish. Looked like this route had been recently cleaned: might just warrant VS. I doubt these routes get more than a couple of ascents a year: Bosigran is a little more appealing!
Sunday, August 09, 2015
Coverack climbing
Crag: The Grove, Cornwall
Routes: South Face (S 4a:led)
Very possibly the most obscure crag in Cornwall! This is the obvious 10 metre high 'boulder' visible from Coverack and looked like it might provide a nice introduction to trad for M. It didn't, partly because it was a mile away and he doesn't like walking, but mainly because of the absurd bushwhacking approach through brambles and ferns. It goes without saying that nobody would choose to visit this on a Cornish climbing holiday, but it was short and near our cottage. A nice coastal walk leads to a wall then that dreadful approach. We finally reached the crag and I led up the obvious ramp line (vegetated) which leads to a few nice clean (quite steep) moves up to a thread belay. M followed competently, getting all my gear out, although he dynoed for the top jug in best Stallone/Cliffhanger style! Curiosity satisfied, we went back for tea. Hard to imagine a less alluring climbing experience for the young man.
Routes: South Face (S 4a:led)
Very possibly the most obscure crag in Cornwall! This is the obvious 10 metre high 'boulder' visible from Coverack and looked like it might provide a nice introduction to trad for M. It didn't, partly because it was a mile away and he doesn't like walking, but mainly because of the absurd bushwhacking approach through brambles and ferns. It goes without saying that nobody would choose to visit this on a Cornish climbing holiday, but it was short and near our cottage. A nice coastal walk leads to a wall then that dreadful approach. We finally reached the crag and I led up the obvious ramp line (vegetated) which leads to a few nice clean (quite steep) moves up to a thread belay. M followed competently, getting all my gear out, although he dynoed for the top jug in best Stallone/Cliffhanger style! Curiosity satisfied, we went back for tea. Hard to imagine a less alluring climbing experience for the young man.
Coverack-Cadgwith run
Our first full day on the Lizard, returning to Little Pednavounder farm after two years absence. High cloud and light winds, so the picture-postcard village of Cadgwith seemed like a good idea. I arranged to meet the family there, and set off for one of my favourite runs anywhere: from the cottage down to the edge of Chynhalls Head near Coverack. This little warm up gives access to the superb coastal path over Black Head to atmospheric Beagle's Cove with its legend of buried treasure and whiff of romance. Strenuous running with sharp climbs out of steep hidden coves eventually gains a level fast section down to Kennack Sands. From here, a steep tarmac climb leads to sheltered running towards the headland above Cadgwith: good views past Caerleon Cove and Ennys Head, choughs overhead. Up steeply through the village to meet the family, then we continued towards the Lizard - walking this time - past the Devil's Frying Pan to Polgwiddw Cove and an inland route past Gwavas and Prazegooth back to Cadgwith.
Saturday, August 08, 2015
Roche Rock climbing
Crag: Roche Rock, Cornwall
Routes: Corner and Staircase (D:sol), Moping Owl (VS 4c:sh), Porky (VS 4c:sh), South-East Buttress (VD:sol/sh)
Another pre-breakfast visit to this crag, just a couple of miles from where we were staying. A perfect morning this time: not a cloud in the deep blue sky. I needed to come back as I realised I had missed all the best routes yesterday. This time, I concentrated on the main south face, initially re-climbing the opening crack of the two-star Diff, trailing a rope behind. This gives way to the 'staircase', easy climbing up a slab to finish between two large pinnacles. I found a thread and headed down the ladders. Both the best VS routes start up the crack I'd soloed yesterday. Moping Owl takes a less direct route, along a juggy traverse to a steep move on rounded holds moving left to the top. Porky is the line of the crag, its best route. It takes the crack up to an obvious crux, steep and gently overhanging: a strenuous move up to good holds, then a shuffle right to gain a small platform. This was a great move. Above, the route stays interesting, good climbing up a vague arete in a great position. All on sun-drenched rock, a nice start to the day. I finished off with the two-star V Diff of South-East Buttress on a loose shunt from the initial pinnacle. This is a nice varied line, good value for the grade. A step off the pinnacle, awkward, gains a rounded traverse left on big holds. Nice position, and fine juggy climbing leads back up to the top for the fourth time. A fine collection of the crag's best routes. Back for breakfast, then the short drive to Coverack.
Routes: Corner and Staircase (D:sol), Moping Owl (VS 4c:sh), Porky (VS 4c:sh), South-East Buttress (VD:sol/sh)
Another pre-breakfast visit to this crag, just a couple of miles from where we were staying. A perfect morning this time: not a cloud in the deep blue sky. I needed to come back as I realised I had missed all the best routes yesterday. This time, I concentrated on the main south face, initially re-climbing the opening crack of the two-star Diff, trailing a rope behind. This gives way to the 'staircase', easy climbing up a slab to finish between two large pinnacles. I found a thread and headed down the ladders. Both the best VS routes start up the crack I'd soloed yesterday. Moping Owl takes a less direct route, along a juggy traverse to a steep move on rounded holds moving left to the top. Porky is the line of the crag, its best route. It takes the crack up to an obvious crux, steep and gently overhanging: a strenuous move up to good holds, then a shuffle right to gain a small platform. This was a great move. Above, the route stays interesting, good climbing up a vague arete in a great position. All on sun-drenched rock, a nice start to the day. I finished off with the two-star V Diff of South-East Buttress on a loose shunt from the initial pinnacle. This is a nice varied line, good value for the grade. A step off the pinnacle, awkward, gains a rounded traverse left on big holds. Nice position, and fine juggy climbing leads back up to the top for the fourth time. A fine collection of the crag's best routes. Back for breakfast, then the short drive to Coverack.
Friday, August 07, 2015
Mawgan Porth-Bedruthan Steps-Porthcothan run
After an excellent morning enjoying the body-boarding on this lovely low-key beach (much nicer than Polzeath), I got a bit cold. I wanted to see the Bedruthan Steps, so ran along the coast path in a northerly direction. The usual superb coastal scenery and spectacular secluded coves, and the usual tough running with lots of climbing. The impressive Bedruthan is reached very quickly, then fine running past Pentire Steps to Park Head and an initially inland route over to Porth Mear. I went a bit further on towards Porthcothan then just reversed the route, but sticking religiously to the coast path, in light rain: around an hour at a reasonably quick pace. The sun came out back at Mawgan Porth, so it was time for a pasty then more surf with the family.
Roche Rock climbing
Crag: Roche Rock, Cornwall
Routes: Tressa (D:sol), Kynsa (D:sol), Nessa (S 4a:sol), Hweghves (S 4a:sol), East Chimney (S 4b:sol/sh), East Chimney Right-Hand (HS 4b:sh), Slab Eliminate (HS 4b:sol), Porky Start (S:sol)
Surely one of the most gothic locations in the UK: this place reminded me of Mow Cop, although I had never heard of it before we arranged our short stopover in Roche, just west of Bodmin. The crag has a decaying monastery at its centre, and although quite small gives excellent climbing on remarkable rock (quartz shorl, with fabulous friction). I made my way to the obvious detached slab for a very enjoyable warm-up (it was only just after 7am!). All these routes are easy-angled but enjoyable, and those further right have awkward and rather delicate starts. I then climbed the ladders up to the ruined monastery, looking for shunt options. Not easy, but eventually I got the ropes down the obvious lines running up the full height of the eastern face (20m high). I had no guidebook, but later research suggests the first route (partially shunted) was East Chimney. Rounded and steep lower down, it becomes positive and excellent higher up. The Right-Hand variant was much better: a cracking line and climb that clearly gets some traffic. Another steep, mildly strenuous start leads up to easier climbing really making use of the superb friction. Lovely positive flakes and juggy holds leading up to a broad, but non-thrutchy chimney exit taken on superb holds. After messing around on what turned out to be the most popular part of the crag, with all the best routes, I headed back to the motel for breakfast resolving to return for another early morning trip next day. After breakfast, it was time to check the surf in Mawgan Porth.
Surely one of the most gothic locations in the UK: this place reminded me of Mow Cop, although I had never heard of it before we arranged our short stopover in Roche, just west of Bodmin. The crag has a decaying monastery at its centre, and although quite small gives excellent climbing on remarkable rock (quartz shorl, with fabulous friction). I made my way to the obvious detached slab for a very enjoyable warm-up (it was only just after 7am!). All these routes are easy-angled but enjoyable, and those further right have awkward and rather delicate starts. I then climbed the ladders up to the ruined monastery, looking for shunt options. Not easy, but eventually I got the ropes down the obvious lines running up the full height of the eastern face (20m high). I had no guidebook, but later research suggests the first route (partially shunted) was East Chimney. Rounded and steep lower down, it becomes positive and excellent higher up. The Right-Hand variant was much better: a cracking line and climb that clearly gets some traffic. Another steep, mildly strenuous start leads up to easier climbing really making use of the superb friction. Lovely positive flakes and juggy holds leading up to a broad, but non-thrutchy chimney exit taken on superb holds. After messing around on what turned out to be the most popular part of the crag, with all the best routes, I headed back to the motel for breakfast resolving to return for another early morning trip next day. After breakfast, it was time to check the surf in Mawgan Porth.
Wednesday, August 05, 2015
Dartmoor climbs, run, walk
Crag: Irishman's Wall, Belstone Tor, Dartmoor
Routes: Central Corner (M:sol), Meander's Mutterings (S 4b:sol), Ann, Jim & Mary (S 4b:sol), Caffery's* (S 4b:sol)
After a fine run down the Granite Trail from Sourton to Lydford Gorge, and a family walk, we enjoyed a superb pub lunch. Thus fortified, we headed round to the north-eastern side of Dartmoor and the pretty Devon village of Belstone. A lovely walk to the top of Belstone Tor gave the family a taste of the Dartmoor atmosphere in superb conditions of shifting cloud, wind and showers: all quite photogenic. At the top, Irishman's Wall is obvious: a long broken wall presumably built by navvies. A little crag, like a cube of absolutely immaculate rough granite rises above it, so I nipped up the routes as a huge shower cloud threatened from the north. The corner was easy, with a harder variant to the right. An awkward start up the 4b crack further left gave a few moments thought, but leads to easier climbing up shelves. Nice moves: a very small but perfectly formed lump of rough granite. It started to rain, so we all headed back down the ridge (an inadvertent reccie for the Sticklepath Horseshoe race scheduled for our return journey: it covered exactly the same ground). The rain got heavier as we descended but our work for the day was over.
Routes: Central Corner (M:sol), Meander's Mutterings (S 4b:sol), Ann, Jim & Mary (S 4b:sol), Caffery's* (S 4b:sol)
After a fine run down the Granite Trail from Sourton to Lydford Gorge, and a family walk, we enjoyed a superb pub lunch. Thus fortified, we headed round to the north-eastern side of Dartmoor and the pretty Devon village of Belstone. A lovely walk to the top of Belstone Tor gave the family a taste of the Dartmoor atmosphere in superb conditions of shifting cloud, wind and showers: all quite photogenic. At the top, Irishman's Wall is obvious: a long broken wall presumably built by navvies. A little crag, like a cube of absolutely immaculate rough granite rises above it, so I nipped up the routes as a huge shower cloud threatened from the north. The corner was easy, with a harder variant to the right. An awkward start up the 4b crack further left gave a few moments thought, but leads to easier climbing up shelves. Nice moves: a very small but perfectly formed lump of rough granite. It started to rain, so we all headed back down the ridge (an inadvertent reccie for the Sticklepath Horseshoe race scheduled for our return journey: it covered exactly the same ground). The rain got heavier as we descended but our work for the day was over.
Tuesday, August 04, 2015
Dartmoor run
Peaks: Yes Tor (2031ft), High Willhays (2039ft)
Area: Dartmoor, Devon
From our motel in Stourton, you could see the western fringe of Dartmoor with the highest hills. So before an evening trip to Okehampton for fish and chips, I nipped up to the highpoint of High Willhays from below Meldon. I treated it as a speed session, contouring the lower Roundstone Hill to pick up a diagonal track leading to a tussocky climb direct to the very windy summit of High Willhays. Nobody around at all in the early evening. I ran across to Yes Tor, the 'roof of Devon' and enjoyed a few minutes bouldering on the tors. Then a winding and circuitous descent, really excellent running, over the top of Roundstone Hill down to the shores of Meldon reservoir and fast running back to the car park. The highest English land south of Kinder Scout, it resembles the Peak District in some ways but in general I found Dartmoor to be more pleasant - perhaps it's just the lack of familiarity as this was my first ever visit. Next morning I had another nice run from our motel to Lydford Gorge where I joined the family for the full circuit past the waterfall.
Area: Dartmoor, Devon
From our motel in Stourton, you could see the western fringe of Dartmoor with the highest hills. So before an evening trip to Okehampton for fish and chips, I nipped up to the highpoint of High Willhays from below Meldon. I treated it as a speed session, contouring the lower Roundstone Hill to pick up a diagonal track leading to a tussocky climb direct to the very windy summit of High Willhays. Nobody around at all in the early evening. I ran across to Yes Tor, the 'roof of Devon' and enjoyed a few minutes bouldering on the tors. Then a winding and circuitous descent, really excellent running, over the top of Roundstone Hill down to the shores of Meldon reservoir and fast running back to the car park. The highest English land south of Kinder Scout, it resembles the Peak District in some ways but in general I found Dartmoor to be more pleasant - perhaps it's just the lack of familiarity as this was my first ever visit. Next morning I had another nice run from our motel to Lydford Gorge where I joined the family for the full circuit past the waterfall.
Dartmoor Scrambles
Crag: Hound Tor, Dartmoor, Devon
Climbs: Paddy (M:sol), Right Chimney (D:sol)
After scratching around Haytor with full gear in gale force winds and drizzle, I concluded today was not the ideal day for a family climbing session, so after ice cream in the Dartmoor village of Widecombe-on-the-Moor we walked up to Hound Tor in much sunnier and warmer conditions. Some bouldering and a few scrambles on these fine granite tors followed.
Climbs: Paddy (M:sol), Right Chimney (D:sol)
After scratching around Haytor with full gear in gale force winds and drizzle, I concluded today was not the ideal day for a family climbing session, so after ice cream in the Dartmoor village of Widecombe-on-the-Moor we walked up to Hound Tor in much sunnier and warmer conditions. Some bouldering and a few scrambles on these fine granite tors followed.
Sunday, August 02, 2015
Flintshire end-to-end cycling
Road cycling: Kinnerton-Moel Arthur-St Asaph
Distance: 55k
Not strictly true, as a lot of this ride was in Denbighshire. I'll have to work out a different 'Tour de Flintshire' using the historical boundaries! An early start from Kinnerton on the Cheshire border, rather tired after a long Hope Mountain run yesterday, through Padeswood and Mold to Nannerch. Still fairly quiet early on Sunday morning, but a horrible road - particularly the stretch through Hendre - and it was wet throughout after overnight rain. At Nannerch, I turned off for the locally noted climb up to Moel Arthur. This is a bit disjointed, far from a uniform slope, and kicks up three or four times quite sharply to gain the gentle slopes leading to the bwlch below Moel Arthur. A bit of drizzle, but it's always a nice spot. A very steep and rutted descent, which really needs a mountain bike, leads to Llandyrnog, then nice riding to Bodfari, Trefnant and St Asaph for lunch. Only 1.45 in total, and not very far at all in terms of mileage, which is a tad unfortunate as I need considerably more saddle time in advance of the imminent Wild Wales Challenge.
Distance: 55k
Not strictly true, as a lot of this ride was in Denbighshire. I'll have to work out a different 'Tour de Flintshire' using the historical boundaries! An early start from Kinnerton on the Cheshire border, rather tired after a long Hope Mountain run yesterday, through Padeswood and Mold to Nannerch. Still fairly quiet early on Sunday morning, but a horrible road - particularly the stretch through Hendre - and it was wet throughout after overnight rain. At Nannerch, I turned off for the locally noted climb up to Moel Arthur. This is a bit disjointed, far from a uniform slope, and kicks up three or four times quite sharply to gain the gentle slopes leading to the bwlch below Moel Arthur. A bit of drizzle, but it's always a nice spot. A very steep and rutted descent, which really needs a mountain bike, leads to Llandyrnog, then nice riding to Bodfari, Trefnant and St Asaph for lunch. Only 1.45 in total, and not very far at all in terms of mileage, which is a tad unfortunate as I need considerably more saddle time in advance of the imminent Wild Wales Challenge.
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