Roche Rock climbing

Crag: Roche Rock, Cornwall
Routes: Corner and Staircase (D:sol), Moping Owl (VS 4c:sh), Porky (VS 4c:sh), South-East Buttress (VD:sol/sh)
Another pre-breakfast visit to this crag, just a couple of miles from where we were staying. A perfect morning this time: not a cloud in the deep blue sky. I needed to come back as I realised I had missed all the best routes yesterday. This time, I concentrated on the main south face, initially re-climbing the opening crack of the two-star Diff, trailing a rope behind. This gives way to the 'staircase', easy climbing up a slab to finish between two large pinnacles. I found a thread and headed down the ladders. Both the best VS routes start up the crack I'd soloed yesterday. Moping Owl takes a less direct route, along a juggy traverse to a steep move on rounded holds moving left to the top. Porky is the line of the crag, its best route. It takes the crack up to an obvious crux, steep and gently overhanging: a strenuous move up to good holds, then a shuffle right to gain a small platform. This was a great move. Above, the route stays interesting, good climbing up a vague arete in a great position. All on sun-drenched rock, a nice start to the day. I finished off with the two-star V Diff of South-East Buttress on a loose shunt from the initial pinnacle. This is a nice varied line, good value for the grade. A step off the pinnacle, awkward, gains a rounded traverse left on big holds. Nice position, and fine juggy climbing leads back up to the top for the fourth time. A fine collection of the crag's best routes. Back for breakfast, then the short drive to Coverack.