Routes: Tressa (D:sol), Kynsa (D:sol), Nessa (S 4a:sol), Hweghves (S 4a:sol), East Chimney (S 4b:sol/sh), East Chimney Right-Hand (HS 4b:sh), Slab Eliminate (HS 4b:sol), Porky Start (S:sol)
Surely one of the most gothic locations in the UK: this place reminded me of Mow Cop, although I had never heard of it before we arranged our short stopover in Roche, just west of Bodmin. The crag has a decaying monastery at its centre, and although quite small gives excellent climbing on remarkable rock (quartz shorl, with fabulous friction). I made my way to the obvious detached slab for a very enjoyable warm-up (it was only just after 7am!). All these routes are easy-angled but enjoyable, and those further right have awkward and rather delicate starts. I then climbed the ladders up to the ruined monastery, looking for shunt options. Not easy, but eventually I got the ropes down the obvious lines running up the full height of the eastern face (20m high). I had no guidebook, but later research suggests the first route (partially shunted) was East Chimney. Rounded and steep lower down, it becomes positive and excellent higher up. The Right-Hand variant was much better: a cracking line and climb that clearly gets some traffic. Another steep, mildly strenuous start leads up to easier climbing really making use of the superb friction. Lovely positive flakes and juggy holds leading up to a broad, but non-thrutchy chimney exit taken on superb holds. After messing around on what turned out to be the most popular part of the crag, with all the best routes, I headed back to the motel for breakfast resolving to return for another early morning trip next day. After breakfast, it was time to check the surf in Mawgan Porth.
Surely one of the most gothic locations in the UK: this place reminded me of Mow Cop, although I had never heard of it before we arranged our short stopover in Roche, just west of Bodmin. The crag has a decaying monastery at its centre, and although quite small gives excellent climbing on remarkable rock (quartz shorl, with fabulous friction). I made my way to the obvious detached slab for a very enjoyable warm-up (it was only just after 7am!). All these routes are easy-angled but enjoyable, and those further right have awkward and rather delicate starts. I then climbed the ladders up to the ruined monastery, looking for shunt options. Not easy, but eventually I got the ropes down the obvious lines running up the full height of the eastern face (20m high). I had no guidebook, but later research suggests the first route (partially shunted) was East Chimney. Rounded and steep lower down, it becomes positive and excellent higher up. The Right-Hand variant was much better: a cracking line and climb that clearly gets some traffic. Another steep, mildly strenuous start leads up to easier climbing really making use of the superb friction. Lovely positive flakes and juggy holds leading up to a broad, but non-thrutchy chimney exit taken on superb holds. After messing around on what turned out to be the most popular part of the crag, with all the best routes, I headed back to the motel for breakfast resolving to return for another early morning trip next day. After breakfast, it was time to check the surf in Mawgan Porth.
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