Creigiau Cigfran/Penmaenhead climbing

Crag: Creigiau Cigfran, Llanfairfechan
Routes: Don't Fence Me In (f5c:led), Blue Streak (f5c:led), The Last Waltz (f6a:led), The Great Wall (f6b:led/sec), Wellington Rib (VD:sol), Great Grass Gully (VD:des)
Crag: Penmaenhead, Colwyn Bay
Routes: Helyg Crack (f6a:led*), Intruder (f5+:sec)
I've driven past these crags hundreds of times, probably thousands, and have often wondered whether they would be worth a visit. As it happens, several people must have had the same idea as some recent bolting has occurred, to supplement a few of the obvious easy lines done many years ago. It seems likely to remain fairly obscure, however, as the crags are scattered around the hillside above Llanfairfechan and not particularly easy to find. It took us a while, but we eventually emerged above the scree near Fence Buttress, a 20m high slab of microdiorite which looked like a decent enough place to start. This slab gave two lovely climbs on good rock, surprisingly good and rather reminiscent of Tremadog VS's in style (albeit a poor man's Tremadog!). The left-hand line took a scrappy groove up to a steep slab. Delightful moves up this on small positive holds led to a flake, then a leftward trending finish up an open groove. Some light rain, but fine rough rock and good friction. The right-hand line (Blue Streak) was perhaps slightly better: a similarly simple route with lovely relaxed slab climbing, a little more open position up the slab to finish in the same place. Vic and I both led both routes. After a heavy shower while we ate our lunch, we moved further left to the main wall. The rock here is smoother, not as good, closer in slatey style to nearby Penmaenbach. I scampered up the Last Waltz at a mild f6a: nice, clean slabby climbing with a thought-provoking and quite technical (but brief) crux step left half way up. The Great Wall is obvious, but takes a devious line up the 30m high main face. It gives an unusual sports route, weaving round and demanding a variety of different climbing styles. Vic led, and negotiated the crux moves round the obvious early overhang, but he ran out of quickdraws and lowered off from the junction with the 6c direct version of the route. I followed up, a tricky step left and 6b moves through the bulge, and led through the indirect and devious left-hand finish. Some rests broke up the technicality: low in the grade. An easier finish, with some rope drag. The hangers were missing from the lower-off, and I wasn't prepared to lower off a single, badly placed bolt. So I found a sound bolt higher up the direct line and brought Vic up. We descended through gorse, then I nipped up the old V Diff line taking the clean rib: fun. Then it was across to the more familiar Penmaenhead for something a bit steeper. A short descent to the crag with more rain threatening, so I kicked off with the steep and sustained Helyg Crack. Hard to start, with an awkward bridging move to gain the badly placed second bolt. Above, an easier section leads to a rest. I took the top section too far left, lured by the wrong lower-off (should have checked the topo first). I needed a rest as a result - annoying. The actual line remains steep and polished, but is on good juggy holds. A good, sustained route. I then followed Vic up the easier Intruder, which I've done before. This is also steep and sustained, but very juggy: some superb holds.