Tuesday, August 18, 2015

Maeshafn climbing

Crag: Maeshafn
Routes: The Bulger (HVS 5a:sh), Bulger Variant (HVS 5a:sh), Little Finger Jam (VS 5b:sh), Sling Variant (HS:des), Dandy Lion (HS 4b:sh), Sling (HS 4b:sh), Wanderer (VS 4c:sh), The Arete (VS 5a:sh)
On my own again, so I decided to sweep the entire amphitheatre wall on the shunt as quickly as I could without resting, as time was limited and I was here for 'training purposes' only. I've led all these routes in the past and done them many times, so I did the Bulger twice (once up an eliminate line to the left, avoiding the crack where possible). Little Finger Jam has always had a horrible start, but it is now polished and even harder. I came in from the left on a loose shunt. Then descended Sling and went up it by another eliminate avoiding the big holds. Further right, The Arete gives a slightly longer route and was good fun alongside its easier neighbour. Jogged back over Moel Findeg in beautiful weather to my car, which I'd left in the village.

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