Trewavas Head climbing

Crag: Trewavas Head, Cornwall
Routes: Joy (S 4a:sol/sh), Mascara (VS 4c:sh), Mouseproof (S:sol), Sancho (VD:sol/sh)
I have only had one proper climbing trip to Cornwall, and that was way back in 1995 when Tim and I ticked numerous classics on the most famous crags of Bosigran, Chair Ladder, Land's End and Sennen. As a result, my knowledge is patchy and there are huge gaps and hundreds of crags that I haven't even visited. In the case of Trewavas Head, I'd never even heard of it. But, given that I was regrettably alone and limited to single pitch accessible venues, it was absolutely ideal. No more than 25 minutes from Coverack by car early in the morning, but with an entirely different atmosphere, more like North Cornwall: a granite crag above the sea. It's not a standard sea cliff though, as it is easy to get to: just a mile or so of pleasant walking along the coast path from the beautiful cove at Rinsey. It took a while to get my bearings, as I had no guidebook, but I soon worked out the line taken by Joy, even from a vague description. I did it partially on a loose shunt, as it has a distinct crux a third of the way up, involving a pull round a mildly overhanging block to gain delightful simple cracks leading to the top. A lovely route on perfect granite. Slightly wet lower down after recent rain. Mascara is a very similar line immediately left, almost Joy's mirror image, but two grades harder and considerably better. It also goes easily up to an obvious crux. This time, awkward moves out right on small holds lead to a few steep pulls in a good position (awkward on the shunt). The climbing then gets easier but stays interesting until a steep and rounded finish. Excellent route. Mouseproof took a juggy wall then a slabby arete much further left, while Sancho was an easier route up a left-slanting crack on good holds. All these routes were on perfect rough granite, poised above the sea but a friendly venue ideal in the circumstances. I would have liked to stay longer but wanted to be back by 10am for a trip to the Harbour Lights cafe, so ran back along the coast path to Rinsey.