Crag: The Grove, Cornwall
Routes: The Indian Queen (HS 4b+:sh), Big Chief (HS 4b:sh)
Despite myself, I returned to the Grove the evening after my first visit to do the other two routes. Needless to say, M declined to return after a superb day of boarding at Poldubh, so I jogged from Coverack. The crag is so small (in breadth, not just height) that these three routes are the only possibilities. Having said all that, the arete of Big Chief was actually a nice climb. It was replete with green lichen, inevitably, but gives a series of good moves up an obvious 10m arete line. The route to its left fills the gap and seemed a tad undergraded. A steep start up a fine flake crack leads to moves along the flake to the right than a steep juggy finish. Looked like this route had been recently cleaned: might just warrant VS. I doubt these routes get more than a couple of ascents a year: Bosigran is a little more appealing!
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