Red Kite challenge race

Race: Red Kite Half/Welsh Trail Champs (21.7k/780m)

Time/Position: 1.46.29 (17th from 250 [1st V50])

I spent most of 1994 living in a builder's portakabin above Penrhyncoch so have an attachment to this area. I rarely come here though, and this was one of those races I have somehow missed over the years. With the cancellation of Twin Piers, the time was right to change that, and the course suited my current training regime fairly well. I was pretty pleased with the performance, even though it felt very slow initially with much of the climbing concentrated in the first half. The route leaves Devil's Bridge and then climbs gradually up the Merin valley - all very tranquil, typical mid-Wales scenery. From here, it gets tougher, with a steep climb up 'the shoot' followed by more firetracks and trails up to the highpoint near the top of Pen y Garn, around 2000ft up. Wonderful wild scenery and views over the 'Welsh wilderness' to the east, made even better by the superb sweeping descent taking runners down to the Arch, a famous watershed. After this, steep zigzags began to sort the field out a bit, with runners tiring, a sharp climb followed by more very fast descending on superb fire tracks to regain the Merin valley outward route. Then comes a vicious sting in the tail, which it would have been nice to have prior knowledge of! Luckily I managed to get a gel down before a very sharp climb over the little hills east of Devil's Bridge. This was like one of the Tuesday Eryri evening races appended to the end of a tough half marathon, it felt just like a short fell race. Fortunately I had a bit left, so kept a decent pace up the climb before the steep but grassy descent looping back to the finish at the Woodlands campsite. Conditions were good throughout: high milky cloud, not too warm, and dry underfoot with very little recent rainfall.

Foel Fras

Peaks: Drum, Foel Fras

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

A quick blast from the car park below Bwlch y Ddaefaen to the top of Fras and back. A beautiful Spring morning, but with limited time after dropping Kate off I couldn't relax much so just went direct up to the bwlch and then the familiar Drosgl climb, always hard, before 'cutting the corner' to Drum. From here, the usual grassy ascent to an empty Foel Fras summit (46 minutes from the car park). The descent is very rapid, although at the base of the grassy descent from Fras I heard my car key fly out from my supposedly sealed inner pocket. I have always had nightmares about this happening. It was simultaneously unlucky (because the pocket was zipped, it must have found a crevice) and unbelievably lucky (I only heard it because it struck one of the very few stones in the northern Carneddau, the new flags across the bogs below Drum). Searching for it cost me a decent descent time, but I still made the car park in 29 minutes from the summit of Fras. No dotterel: I don't know how many years I have looked for them up here at this time of year, a lot.

Sandstone trail return

Another attempt to get a bit of mileage in my legs on another beautiful April morning. An easterly crosswind kept temperatures comfortable and it was all very pleasant as I set off on the familiar tracks north through Delamere from Gresty's Waste. The idea was to keep a decent pace going until the Sandstone Trail monument (start/finish point) in the middle of Frodsham, feed, then wend my way back slowly via a loop round Tarvin Road. This worked fairly well, although my pace even at the start was nothing to write home about. I always particularly enjoy the section from Alvanley to Beacon Hill, and did so today - all very tranquil in the verdant greenery of spring. A quick descent down to Frodsham, a large serving of chocolate milk, then the loop round back to the Ridgeway and the return leg. Back at Gresty's Waste, I hadn't covered enough ground, so ran slowly down to Willington and back - a fairly hilly section through forest, green lanes and sunken paths - to bring the distance up to 21m or so.

Heslington parkrun

'Race': Heslington parkrun (York)

Time/Position: 17.53 (2nd from 175 [1st V50])

A potentially fast course, five laps of a newish cycle track in the very impressive sports village right next to the university campus we were visiting. It was quite windy, however, and the other issue with five laps on a parkrun is that it gets a bit crowded when trying to overtake! That said, in the spirit of the event (not races, after all), I just kept a decent quick pace ticking over. I was well off the young lad in front, and gradually worked up the field with my usual unspectacular consistency. Surprisingly, I also took the V50 course record by a few short seconds. The event is fairly well established, so this was a surprise. I have taken age group course records on some of our local parkruns in the past but they have never lasted more than a few weeks! As a result of all the weaving and overtaking, I covered 5.1k, so the 3.30/km pace recorded is not too bad for me at present.

Glyderau loop

Peaks: Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach, Tryfan

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

After last night's superb clarity of light, a perfect morning dawned so I headed up some old favourites, choosing the most direct up Glyder Fawr via the west side of Idwal. I was a little tired after last night's race, but kept a steady pace ticking over below Twll Ddu and up the steep scree to Glyder Fawr. Around 44 minutes to the top from Idwal, a little over 50 from the Cottage. Perfect views in all directions - the view to the Snowdon Horseshoe from Glyder Fawr has always been one of my favourites. It was still early, and I'd beaten the crowds up here so had the ridge to Fach to myself in wonderful weather. I skirted Castell y Gwynt then switched to the north side and plummeted straight down to the Fach screes. These are particularly steep at the top and rather arduous throughout. A few more people around by the time I got to Bwlch Tryfan, from where I took a fairly direct line to the summit. For dessert, I took the direct descent to the road, down the Western Gully and then down the direct ascent I took for the first time earlier this year: this took me 34 minutes to get up in February, but a rather less impressive 16 to get down. I bruised my right buttock at one point - it is all a very steep blend of grass and scree and doesn't really ease until you are virtually back at the road. 

Pen 3 Hills

Race: Pen 3 Hills (2.9m/500m)

Time/Position: 37.27 (17th from 105 [1st V50])

This must be one of the most remarkable races on the calendar. I'd never done it before but had heard tales about the vertical heather and the need for gloves to pull up through the prickles. The statistics tell the story: it is very short, not even close to a 5k, but with well over 1600ft of climbing packed in. The first climb, from Graiglwyd above Penmaenmawr, was familiar and is a standard hard fell race start: a long upward haul up the side of the beautiful valley directly above the village. The conditions and views were stunning: extraordinary clarity of light, the Orme shimmering above a velvet sea. So far, so normal. Then, at the top of the climb, a steepish but still standard descent back down towards the valley further east. Then, a sharp turn and a ludicrously steep climb out of a river gully: this must be one of the steepest climbs on any fell race, hands necessary throughout. At the top, another sharp descent to the east, and then another very steep climb, albeit not quite as steep as the second. After a short easing, a further climb leads up Craig Hafodwen, or its neighbour, before a short heathery section leads towards Moelfre before descending the Graiglwyd path. This is a superb exhilarating climax (a classic descent, which I'd done before) and I managed to hold off those around me to sneak an age category win.

Cadair Idris

Peaks: Craig Cwm Amarch, Pen y Gadair, Mynydd Moel

Area: Cadair Idris, Eryri

Next on Morgan's hit-list of iconic Welsh mountains was Cader. I wanted to do it justice, not settle for the Pony Path, so we made an early start on Easter Saturday, breakfasting en route and getting a parking spot at Minffordd. It has been some time since I did this path, never mind the full horseshoe. I went up to do one of the scrambles perhaps 15 years ago, but it may have been the 90s since I last did the full route from this side. It is certainly one of the best hillwalks in Snowdonia, varied and beautiful. A steep start through the woods initially leads to a levelling and then the lip of Cwm Cau, one of Wales's finest views. This dramatic valley is a famous example of a glaciated landscape and I used to take schoolchildren here when I worked at Rheidol. The tops were still shrouded in mist, but this was beginning to lift and some sunshine peeked through as we took the steep climb to gain the main ridge towards the pyramidal peak of Craig Cwm Amarch. Stunning views across the crags down to Llyn Cau, again among the best in Wales. As we ascended, the mist rose, and after the forepeak we slogged up the rocky terrain to the true summit of Pen y Gadair, quickly putting on extra layers in the hut as the biting easterly hit. M had no issues at all with either the terrain or the fitness demands - good lad. We had lunch gazing down on the Mawddach estuary and across to the Rhinogydd, still some cloud around. Afterwards, we enjoyed the splendid romp along the grassy ridge east to Mynydd Moel. I remember the descent from this as being quite obscure, years ago, but now it is a clear path all the way back to the path junction. Only about 3.20 at a steady walking pace, plenty of time to get back for the cup semi-final. I reckon I first did this exact route at Easter 1989, or perhaps 1990, a year or two younger than Morgan today at exactly the same time of year.

Collie double

I've done a few Collie doubles over the years, but this counts as one of the longer ones. Generally speaking, I append a long loop onto the classic Friday evening route, often a road loop when increasing the mileage (in this case, for the imminent Sandstone Trail, for which I feel undertrained, certainly in terms of distance). This was a Good Friday link-up of the region's finest pubs, starting from the Collie, passing the Druid in Llanferres, then south to Llanarmon yn Ial and the Raven, the down the quiet lanes to Graianrhyd and the Rose and Crown. From here, the delightful Ffordd Cae Newydd heads north over multiple short, sharp hills and eventually passes the Owain Glyndwr above Gwernymynydd. An extra loop over to Gwernaffield and then it was back to the Collie for the Friday classic: 32.5k/900m.

Spring 5

Race: Chester Spring 5

Time/Position: 28.41 (31st from 354 [2nd V50])

I've never particularly liked doing back-to-back races, but at least these two were both short. I would certainly have preferred it the other way round, with this time-sensitive one first! The Spring 5 is a bit of a local classic, it's been going for years and I first did it 15 years ago. That said, I've never found it particularly fast and my course PB is only 28.46, run the last time I did it in 2013 when I should have run far quicker. As a result of all that, I was pleased with this performance. A very fast start after which I consciously eased off for the undulating Picton Road. Turning left along the farm lanes has often slowed times in the past, as the lanes gradually climb, but today I felt fairly strong and - although slowing - maintained a decent pace to the finish to record an unlikely 'course PB' by 5 seconds!

Foel Lus

Race: Foel Lus (3.5m/290m)

Time/Position: 27.48 (24th from 150 [2nd V50])

This is the only one of the Tuesday evening Snowdonia series I have ever done, running 26.36 in 2017. I must have been on a good day, as I was over a minute outside that this evening despite feeling reasonably good. It is a cracking little race, up the tracks from Capelulo's Fairy Glen, then heading fairly direct for the distinctive top of Foel Lus via the eastern path (up in less than 15 minutes). I then had a good descent down the south side and along to the Jubilee Path which contours above the A55 and which I was really looking forward to, hoping to benefit from road speed. It went fairly well but I got temporarily stuck behind two runners so couldn't really capitalise. They then inevitably went past on the descent (which replicates the outward left) and I took some bad indirect lines, one in particular caused me to lose a fair amount of ground before the very fast finish back down the track to Capelulo.

Tattenhall 6m

Race: Tattenhall 9.7k (Border League race 6)

Time/Position: 35.20 (30th from 242 [1st V50])

This felt like perhaps the best performance of the BL season for me, certainly in terms of the time in relation to my previous course PBs, which I'm unlikely to match. I'm fairly sure I have never run sub 35 on this course, which is just under 10k but not the quickest, with its sharp climb towards the the Peckforton Hills: so this wasn't too far off my best (unless the course has changed, and I don't think it has). I know the course well, and the key to it is saving something for the triple climb. I went off fast on the Burwardsley road then deliberately eased off for Dark Lane, saving something for the climb which then begins immediately. I always forget quite how steep this gets for a little while on Harthill Road. I have always enjoyed the descent from Burwardsley, and did so today, and then felt encouragingly good for the last mile, a false flat which has often seen me blowing in the past. A 66 point lead in the V50 category now. 

Kruja

Peaks: Mali i Krujes

Area: Skanderbeg, Albania

Kruja is dominated by a steep, craggy limestone mountain that protects it from the east. It nestles around the slopes, with its castle looking out over the plains to the Adriatic. I headed there from Tirana on a dreadful day of cold rain and mist. When I arrived in Kruja, I couldn't see the mountains - in fact, I couldn't even see the castle. It was all very atmospheric, however, and later the mist cleared then swirled around the crags. Next morning was far better: some high cloud but hints of warmed sunshine to come as I headed up the Rruga Malit (mountain road) after a fine breakfast at the memorable Hotel Panorama. At the top of town, there is an ancient path leading up the mountain to 'Sarisalltik', a Bektashi muslim shrine in a cave below one of the limestone crags. Despite its ancient engineered zigzags (in places), it was relentlessly steep, a 500m ascent that took me 28 minutes at a fair lick. Above, I passed an old hotel to take in the true summit. It was early, and very quiet, a beautiful ambience and soft light. Lovely hills all around (particularly a double summit near Noje). I jogged along a wooded ridge south taking in two subsidiary peaks (these were clearly visible from the airport later). Nice woods and open meadows. Then it was back down the newly tarmaced mountain road, which is distinctly Alpine, well engineered, and curves round the mountain north and west for 6k+ back to Kruja. It gave a lovely running descent, almost no cars, in 25 minutes. Then it was back to Rinas to lunch on shish kebabs before the flight home.

Dajti

Peaks: Mali i Dajtit (1613m), Mali i Tujanit (1524m)

Area: Skanderbeg, Albania

This range of high wooded hills dominates Tirana and is served by a newish (2005) Austrian cable car, one of Europe's longest, that leaves the far eastern suburbs and heads up to a small plateau. From here, however, it is still a fair trek to the summits which makes them worthwhile objectives. There are no maps, but there was a stylised drawing of peaks and paths at the bottom cable car. After some very mixed weather and a lot of rain, this morning dawned clear and sunny, the best day of my week in Albania. The bus system is rather opaque, but I got on the right one from the city centre and worked out the closest stop, getting one of the first cars up at 9am. I found a signpost to the Qafa a Qershise col and followed that through the woods until an arrow sent me west. This felt counter intuitive but followed a delightful level path through the beech woods so I followed it. After a while it became obvious it was wrong, so I retraced my steps and eventually found the real route to the col, which proved direct and comfortable, though relentless, and gained the lovely col. This was sun-drenched, strewn with limestone outcrops and little alpine meadows. To the right, Dajti, to the left, another shapely peak, Tujanit. I went up the former first, up a series of tracks that became quite snowy as I ascended: an inch or two in places, and icy in the shady spots. At the top of the track, views opened out at a bizarre listening post, presumably a Hoxha legacy, a dilapidated building with dozens of satellite dishes. Annoyingly, the marked trail ended here too, but it was well below the true summit, which then proved a challenge to reach. The old buildings appeared to be manned, so I sneaked away to very steep snowy slopes which led to an open limestone gully with mild scrambling which gained the summit ridge, quite nicely defined. Superb views finally opened out as the treeline was definitively left: down to Tirana and the Adriatic, and east to the interior hills, snow covered at the Macedonian border. Further north, I think the Albanian Alps were visible as another line of white. I found an easier way down, then headed back to the col before taking the comfortable track up Tujanit. This had a wide open summit, almost circular, with great views north over the spectacularly blue Bovilla lake to the mountains above Kruje I hoped to visit soon. Further east, river valleys led up to the snowy peaks of Gropa-Bize-Martanesh. After spending a while admiring the view, I headed down to the col and then back to the balcony for an iced coffee.

Mbreshtan return

Berat is a pretty special place, nestled around the Osumi river and dominated by Tomorri, an inaccessible, complex and impressive mountain - particularly when snow-covered (which it was during my stay). On arrival in Albania, I had vaguely wondered whether it might be possible to get up Tomorri, but discounted it immediately - it would have been a serious undertaking necessitating all sorts of planning. Another mountain also attracts the attention from Berat, indeed there is a legend connecting both of them to the town's foundation. Shpirag is half the height, much less impressive, and once spelt out the name of 'Enver' in gigantic letters, one of the most famous pieces of Hoxha-era propaganda. It looked entirely feasible, and I wanted a long outing anyway so after a huge breakfast in my hotel I walked along the river before cutting west through Velabisht to gain the long valley heading up towards Shpirag (which is a remarkably long mountain, cut with parallel re-entrants). This curved gradually up towards Palikesht, a hamlet dominated by derelict barracks and what appeared to be dozens of old mines. Ahead, a dog attack of a kind that does occasionally happen in the Balkans. I emerged unscathed but carried a stick thereafter. These dogs were at least small and not too threatening, unlike the giant sheepdogs I encountered later. These mean business, but don't attack you: they just issue a warning bark and that is enough for any sensible person to retreat. Annoyingly, the road curved away from Shpirag and I made a nav error before righting myself and reaching a little reservoir below Mala Kules. Above, the straggling village of Mbreshtan. I had already gone 10k by this point and it was beginning to look like a slightly unrealistic exercise. The road was good, but the route to the peak ran through little farms replete with more dogs. I didn't fancy trying to explain what I was trying to do to the villagers, who were essentially Tosk peasants. So at the top of the village, I decided to cut my losses and return to Berat, which was actually very pleasant - with beautiful views of Tomorri, plastered white with snow under a milky sky. Even better, it stayed dry throughout, a weather window between spells of torrential rain.