Mbreshtan return

Berat is a pretty special place, nestled around the Osumi river and dominated by Tomorri, an inaccessible, complex and impressive mountain - particularly when snow-covered (which it was during my stay). On arrival in Albania, I had vaguely wondered whether it might be possible to get up Tomorri, but discounted it immediately - it would have been a serious undertaking necessitating all sorts of planning. Another mountain also attracts the attention from Berat, indeed there is a legend connecting both of them to the town's foundation. Shpirag is half the height, much less impressive, and once spelt out the name of 'Enver' in gigantic letters, one of the most famous pieces of Hoxha-era propaganda. It looked entirely feasible, and I wanted a long outing anyway so after a huge breakfast in my hotel I walked along the river before cutting west through Velabisht to gain the long valley heading up towards Shpirag (which is a remarkably long mountain, cut with parallel re-entrants). This curved gradually up towards Palikesht, a hamlet dominated by derelict barracks and what appeared to be dozens of old mines. Ahead, a dog attack of a kind that does occasionally happen in the Balkans. I emerged unscathed but carried a stick thereafter. These dogs were at least small and not too threatening, unlike the giant sheepdogs I encountered later. These mean business, but don't attack you: they just issue a warning bark and that is enough for any sensible person to retreat. Annoyingly, the road curved away from Shpirag and I made a nav error before righting myself and reaching a little reservoir below Mala Kules. Above, the straggling village of Mbreshtan. I had already gone 10k by this point and it was beginning to look like a slightly unrealistic exercise. The road was good, but the route to the peak ran through little farms replete with more dogs. I didn't fancy trying to explain what I was trying to do to the villagers, who were essentially Tosk peasants. So at the top of the village, I decided to cut my losses and return to Berat, which was actually very pleasant - with beautiful views of Tomorri, plastered white with snow under a milky sky. Even better, it stayed dry throughout, a weather window between spells of torrential rain.