Braich Ty Ddu mountaineering

Routes: Pinnacle Ridge (VD:led p.2), Ring Ouzel/Unknown (VD:sec p.1,2), Porcupine Ridge (D/3:led p.2+4)

Crags: Craig Braich Ty Ddu, Nant Francon

What started out as a short day ended up being a fairly long one. It was Easter Monday and Ogwen was rammed, I had no interest in anything difficult, and Peter had never done Pinnacle Ridge before so we headed there direct from the A5 after parking lower down Nant Ffrancon. It is actually very easy to approach the route from below, albeit steep: I have done it before, but it was with Tim many, many years ago. The first pitch is very nice, and I enjoyed seconded it although could hardly feel my hands with a cold wind blowing and no sun yet. I led up easy vegetated ground to the ridge line, which then ends far too quickly over the pinnacles. The day was still young, so I suggested continuing up the hard-to-find and rather esoteric Porcupine Ridge which forms the skyline high up on this broken set of crags. I was really tired for the slog up a very steep heather gully, still jet lagged I think, and unused to carrying kit having not climbed for a while. Instead of heading upwards, Peter decided to have a go at the obvious pinnacle, around 100ft high lower down on the left. It is possible this is the line of Ring Ouzel (VD) but it is a very obscure area so possibly not. It gave a rather loose pitch of about VD up broken walls and a vague arete line trending right. After a grassy gap, he led another cleaner pitch up a nice slab to an easy-angled arete trending right to a little overlap which gave a nice move to a clean slab. Interesting and very obscure stuff which certainly felt like a first ascent! We then moved over to the spines of rock which we felt marked the start of Porcupine Ridge. As a youth I do remember finding some scrambling after doing Pinnacle Ridge but I think I would have remembered this as it was something of a revelation! Way better than I'd expected. The ribs of rock lead up to a vegetated section where Peter belayed. I then led up easy ground to a narrow chimney where I belayed. The ridge then becomes really well defined on superb rock, completely unpolished. Peter led up the curving ridge, great hard scrambling, to belay below a giant pinnacle. I led a great easy pitch up big shelves and holds to a platform, then traversed the pinnacle to the right, before making the next narrow flake harder than necessary by traversing it on small footholds left. A perfect belay in a narrow breche, before Peter led the crux left-trending, fairly exposed crack up to a vague arete and good scrambling up to a final ridge. Interesting and absorbing scrambling, closer to an easy rock climb in tone, on the borders of Grade 3/Diff: I certainly wouldn't have been comfortable doing it without a rope. An easy stroll led to the direct descent to Ogwen Cottage in stunning crystal clear weather, perfect visibility over Ogwen to Tryfan. Back down Nant Francon to the car after a very enjoyable and unexpected mountaineering day.

Cerro La Asuncion/Quebrada trail

Peaks: Cerro La Asuncion (3335m)

Area: Cordillera de Talamanca, Costa Rica 

Despite the altitude, this is just a short scramble from the top of the famous Cerro de la Muerte (peak of death) road. The road is now metalled and civilised, and we had intended to arrive much earlier to take advantage of the clear morning weather. However, we were delayed by three hours by a roadblock which prevented us leaving the Savegre valley (due to a lorry that had driven into a ditch, we think). So we enacted 'plan b', heading back down to the bottom of the valley and doing the Quebrada trail from the upscale Savegre hotel. This climbed steeply up a track, where I had a close encounter with a coyote, and led to a stunning viewpoint over the cloudforests of the lower valley. From here, a side path marks the start of the Quebrada ('ravine') route through more pristine forest down to a tight lower valley before contouring the hillside back to the track. After this very rewarding unexpected delay, the road reopened and we managed the very steep drive back out and up to the top of the pass. From here, I scampered up Asuncion in a matter of minutes and was still in time for views, although the cloud was building in characteristic fashion. The altitude did make it a tad harder than it would normally have been, and it was steep in places. Great views across to Chirippo and some of the way down the Pacific side. This is where we then headed, via a giant descent to another roadblock in roasting San Isidro (but that is another story!). At Hacienda Baru, the temperature had climbed to a draining 38C, quite a challenge after a 5C morning watching more quetzals in San Gerardo de Dota!

Rio Savegre

The valley of the Rio Savegre is close to paradise on earth, a cliche admittedly, but one that seemed apt as we began the steep descent after driving from Alajuela at the start of our Costa Rica soujourn. In Panama eight years ago, I failed to find a resplendent quetzal, one of those birds I have always wanted to see. This morning, however, we located one just above the wooden hut we were staying in: a truly memorable experience after hearing it calling in the pristine cloud forest. That habitat characterises the entire valley. After the quetzal, I embarked on a downhill jog to the end of the valley, seeing another male quetzal en route. At the bottom, a track goes alongside the river and leads to a loop around dense cloud forest. A little side path leads to a stunning waterfall surrounded by dense vegetation. After this, I eventually rejoined the tarmac road which then climbs, steeply and tiringly (1000ft elevation on this route), back to our hut at Casa Monge.

Hoylake BL

Race: Hoylake 7.5k (Border League race 5)

Time/Position: 27.51 (63rd from 363 [1st V55])

A somewhat predictable outing on the same course as that used two years ago. This all 'went to form' in the sense that I was well down the field again, but retained my 100% category winning record for the season. Two years ago I went out too hard on this course and faded at the end, so I dialled it back this time and enjoyed the easterly leg out towards the gravel path that leads to Leasowe lighthouse. This meant I had some energy left for the return and worked well with a couple of other runners to maintain my (lowly!) position. I have a 121 point lead now in the category, so my 4th ever season win is now guaranteed regardless of the final race - which seems in doubt anyway.

Yr Aran from Craflwyn

Peaks: Yr Aran

Area: Yr Wyddfa, Eryri

There was ice on the inside of the van window when I woke, so although I slept for almost 10 hours I kept briefly waking with a cold nose, as you do in these circumstances. I parked up at Craflwyn as the sun rose, absolutely beautiful with views of Hebog framed by early spring blossom. Good laid out paths lead upwards in civilised fashion until the inevitable happens and you have to plough up the trackless hillside. I knew this would happen but was curious about this side of Yr Aran, very obscure and untravelled. It was pretty horrible, and it was hard work fighting through heather and bog to get to a shallow cwm between Craig Wen and Yr Aran. I made my way to the obvious col, at which you join a narrow path. This leads very pleasantly up the nicely defined west ridge to the summit, which I had to myself at 8.30am. One of the best views of Yr Wyddfa, and after a rest I jogged down the steep nose towards the Watkin Path which I reached via the very steep mining incline I remember taking last time I was here. Through the woods to Nant Gwynant, and then along the perfect path that leads along the far side of Llyn Dinas: stunning in the morning light, another wonderful early spring day, always my favourite time of year.

Tryfan West Face

Peaks: Tryfan

Area: Glyderau

Lectures finished in the early afternoon and the forecast was glorious, so I headed off for a van nanobreak parking up in Ogwen just before 3pm. This gave sufficient time to plough up to the perfectly sunlit west face, Tryfan's 'Yin' side, which gives a range of interesting and relaxed scrambles with a mountaineering flavour. I have done most, if not all, of them over the years so headed up to Y Gully, probably the furthest from the road! But the very steep slog up isn't too bad if you take the right approach and pack light. Last time I did this combo I was heading to a wild camp near Caseg Fraith but today I carried almost nothing. The sun lit the face to perfection as I took the left edge of the gully up sharp holds to avoid the first big chockstone: this is slabby and enjoyable, and leads back into the gully. At the next blockage, I messed around in the damp gully before moving left on big holds then finishing up slabs in the gully itself. From here you can pick your way up the rocky upper section to join the North Ridge near the tower. After a break on top enjoying slightly hazy views and warm early spring sunshine, I trotted down to Bochlwyd and then a quick bath in Llyn Ogwen before eating my pasta salad in Mymbyr before a peaceful but very cold van night in Sygun.

PitP parkrun

'Race': Park in the Past parkrun

Time/Position: 20.13 (2nd from 89)

Another very muddy and slow edition of my local parkrun, a full two minutes down on my course pb recorded last summer. I wore a pair of old road shoes this morning so was slipping around a lot - I knew this would happen but my achilles precludes the wearing of fell shoes so I had no choice! Lovely weather, so the jog across the wet fields to the start was delightful. I felt better than I have recently, despite the slow conditions, and this continued next day when I did a time trial to the trig on Waun y Llyn from my front door, taking the most direct route across the wet fields and Fagl lane again. Exactly 27 minutes to the trig, after which I descended the very steep Porch Lane to Caergwrle and home via Rhyddyn Hill.

Newborough Forest parkrun

'Race': Newborough Forest parkrun

Time/Position: 19.19 (4th from 157)

This must be one of the most beautiful and satisfying parkruns in Britain, because it starts from the stunning Traeth Llanddwyn. Then, although it mostly stays within the forest, it takes a single lap on firetracks and sand. The start was tough, gently uphill with views of the island through the trees, to a steep, rooty dune (hard work) and then a long gentle climb to a highpoint. From here, it is a 2k blast through the trees. It was a beautiful morning, crystal clear with the novelty of frozen beach sand initially, and fantastic views across to the Nantlle ridge and Yr Eifl. M enjoyed it too, and it didn't take us long to get back to Henllys for breakfast and a swim.

Tour de Mynydd Mawr

Peaks: Foel Rudd, Mynydd Mawr, Craig Cwmbychan

Area: Nantlle, Eryri

Some highly obscure corners of the national park here, particularly on a deliberately long and winding descent past the very steep crag of Castell Cidwm. I set off from the Snowdon Ranger car park, nice to relive October's Eryri marathon, then jogged along to the end of Llyn Cwellyn before embarking on the long climb through the forest. I suspect I last did this with little dog Judy in the 1990s - I remember her having an unhealthy obsession with the crags of Craig y Bera! There are multiple footpaths heading upwards and I tried to take the logical line but still found myself crawling through overgrown woodland at one point. Eventually I reached the open hill below the steep climb up Foel Rudd, enlivened by a brief but superb sunburst over Rhyd Ddu to Yr Aran, with Y Garn (Nantlle) emerging from the mist on the right. The route heads up very steeply to Rudd, and then the familiar ridge to the main summit. This is excellent, and also taken by the Fron Four race which I've done a couple of times. Great views down to Craig y Bere on the left (I have done Sentries Ridge and Angel Pavement here, both memorable). It was quite windy and cold, with a little snow on the summit, so I didn't hang around but jogged down the spur north-east to great views directly down to Llyn Cwellyn. This spur (Craig Cwmbychan) is very obvious from the road, as is the shallow gully above Cwm Planwydd that I then took down to Castell Cidwm. This is extremely steep, with a tiny path some help, and plummets down to a small waterfall of the Afon Goch below the famously steep crag of Cidwm (I have never climbed here, too hard for me). An unbridged river blocks progress round the west side of Cwellyn so instead I had to jog along the muddy lake banks (track) all the way back to the far end of the lake.

Birkenhead BL

Race: Birkenhead Park Variant (Border League race 4)

Time/Position: 29.09 (79th from 391 [1st V55])

Although I didn't feel great today, unable to hold any kind of pace after a decent first lap, I did at least maintain my 100% category winning record in this season's border league. I set off with clubmates who I should have been able to work with, but could only hold the pace for one lap. It wasn't the usual Birkenhead Park course, but was instead a slightly shorter version with three laps using different paths to the normal fixture. My heel problems are still compromising training and that is really starting to tell now: as I'm only running 20 miles or so each week it is becoming difficult to maintain any kind of edge. The second lap was tough, and I consciously slowed for it before trying to up the pace again towards the end. Another very lowly finish, nowhere near counting for the team, but I now have a substantial 102 point gap on second place in the V55 category.

Mow Cop TT

Not a race, but I include it as I treated the famous 'Killer Mile' up to Mow Cop as a bit of a time trial, something I have been wanting to do for a while. It is a long-established race too, going back to the early 80s, but we just incorporated it into a day trip instead. I had cycled it before, on the Cheshire Cat sportive way back in 2011 - you got a medal if you stayed upright on the bike, and I did! By comparison, running is probably slightly easier: whether on bike or foot it is a classic test, reminiscent of a Flemish monument climb (550ft height gain in less than a mile). We parked in Scholar Green and I ran along the lanes towards Station Road and the level crossing where the Killer starts, the Mow Cop castle starkly obvious high above. From here, the road kicks up brutally but remains runnable until it rounds a corner then gets a little steeper again. The final section is dead straight, right up the hillside with houses on both sides, and it gets ridiculously steep at the top - supposedly 25%. It emerges on the High Street directly under the castle. I managed it in a fairly pedestrian 9.49, which was good enough for first 55-65 year old on the Strava segment, to my surprise. I jogged to the castle, then continued a five mile loop down Woodcock Lane past Doreen and Tom's house with immense views over Cheshire, all of which bought back lots of memories for me. Through Mount Pleasant and the Bank, wonderful gently descending running throughout, and back down to Scholar Green in 40 minutes.

Prestatyn parkrun

'Race': Prestatyn parkrun

Time/Position: 19.04 (3rd from 207)

Conditions were surprisingly good this morning, with fairly light westerlies not having too much impact on the outward leg. My time was good enough for another V55 course record, my 7th since turning 55, although I may already have lost one of the others! More importantly, I felt better than I have done recently, and I wasn't too far off my best times for the course. The short section through the dunes does have a negative impact on times, as does the amount of sand on the course, but the return easterly leg went well, churning over a decent pace and not losing too much time after the turn. 

Oswestry XC

Race: Oswestry 5m+ (NWXC League race 5)

Time/Position: 36.45 (42nd from 103 [1st V55])

It has been a very unusual cross country season, from the opening round meltdown at Llanerch Hall (which saw me torn between retiring and walking) through to the final three races in which I won my category. After almost failing to finish the first fixture, I didn't even do the second race at Colwyn Bay, thereby only really starting the season in Bala, early December. All of this meant that I was tied with Irfon from Cybi Striders going into this, the final race, over the familiar Oswestry course. For better or worse, this meant that we were competing head-to-head in the last race, mildly exciting with the usual friendly competition. It has always been a tough course, although as I remember it used to be even harder, using more of the field closer to the school. After loads of recent rain, the course was very boggy in the usual places. I went past Irfon on the second small lap and then managed to open a bit of a gap down to the bottom field which has a horrible climb back out (which I have always hated, even when I could run properly up hills). After this, two thigh-deep bogs lead to the drier section back towards the school. It is hard to bridge gaps in cross country, particularly on a course like this, but I still found myself passed by three of the student team runners right at the end! I maintained the same plodding pace of the last three fixtures, but scored fourth for Buckley and did enough to win my category this season. Only the second time I have ever won my category in a cross country season, and the first time was the V50 prize immediately post-Covid. Buckley finished 2nd in Division 1, which equals our best ever finish in the league, not bad considering how few runners we had at the last two fixtures. A nice prize giving at the Marches School, with tea, rolls and cake.

Ceiriog valley loop

A delightful ten mile outing through the obscure hills to the north of Dyffryn Ceiriog. I have done the Ceiriog Canter (up Vivod) from Glyn Ceiriog before, but this morning I took the extremely steep lane of Ty'n y Cestyll to emerge on the Nantyr road. This is a very nice lane between the Berwyn ridge on the right, and the Ceiriog valley below, and it leads to a sharp turn to an obvious bridleway marked Whitestones on the OS map. This is steep in places, effectively a pass between Bryn Du and Tomen y Gwyddel, very rough underfoot and sadly used by off-road motorbikes, several of which roared past as I ran. It leads all the way down to Llanarmon Dyffryn Ceiriog, where I had a 30 second glimpse of an unfamiliar orange orb in the sky. After 600m of elevation over the tops, I then really enjoyed the long valley run back to Glyn Ceiriog via Tregeiriog and Pandy.

Flint Castle parkrun

'Race': Flint Castle parkrun

Time/Position: 19.06 (4th from 349)

Another new event, only in its 5th or 6th week, but a very pleasant course along the coastal path heading west from the castle. I had run a lot of this before: despite the proximity of industry, it is very tranquil with views over the Dee estuary across to the Wirral side. There were some big puddles on the route, and a little sand, but generally conditions were good - cloudy, cool and calm. I had a steady outing, struggling to get any kind of speed up, but I was first age graded and took another V55 category course record, not overly impressive given how new the event is! I currently hold parkrun age group course records at: PitP, Rhos on Sea, Greenfield, Ruthin and Flint. Not really in the spirit of the friendly 'timed run', but it does give something to aim for!

Thurstaston BL

Race: Thurstaston 5m (Border League race 3)

Time/Position: 30.25 (90th from 399 [1st V55])

The second part of this weekend's double header, made particularly trying after a busy and tiring Saturday night. It was the reverse of the route we did from Thurstaston two years ago, meaning it started with the long climb from the country park up Station Road to the main Heswall road. Given my condition, I knew I had to take this steady and did so, with the usual hyper-competitive Borders field streaking up the road ahead of me. My legs felt reasonable but it was a more general fatigue that afflicted me this morning. The main road towards Heswall is gently inclining and I stuck with Andy and Rob, similarly paced as we were yesterday. We did pick up a few places, and this continued on the fell race style steep descent down Oldfield Drive, which is badly potholed, the Dee estuary stretching out in front and a little sunshine playing around. There just remained the little matter of the finish along the endless Wirral Way. This is dead straight and mentally tough - it is also the finish to the summer Wirral multi-terrain race, so I have done it eyeballs out in the past. One of my worst ever finishing positions in the league, but not too bad in the circumstances and it did maintain my 100% age category winning record this season - I have an 82 point lead on second place, with Buckley second team overall. If I have counted correctly, this was my 97th border league race.

Shrewsbury XC

Race: Leaton Forest 5m (North Wales XC league, race 4)

Time/Position: 33.45 (42nd from 101 [1st V55])

A double race weekend, always a demanding undertaking but made more so this weekend for a variety of reasons (my age being one!). As luck would have it, this was a relatively civilised (new) course by cross country standards, despite its location right next to the River Severn. It was flat with a few muddy sections, but not as draining as it might have been - I rather enjoyed it. Tomorrow's border league fixture had to be my priority so the idea here was to run at 80% effort and keep a steady pace ticking over. My age group rival Irfon took off at quite a pace on the first short lap so I ended off starting faster than I'd intended to, but eventually the pace steadied and the two short laps gave way to two longer ones, all along the banks of the Severn. As with numerous other recent events, my pace was steady but not remotely fast, and I was still ready for the finish when it came. First V55 in this, and the last fixture at Bala, making me really regret my tribulations at the first fixture in St Asaph, which will obviously adversely affect my overall standing in the age category. As a team, we are now in second, which is pretty good as we only had six male runners here.

PitP parkrun

'Race': Park in the Past parkrun

Time/Position: 20.59 (4th from 103)

Ruining all my stats for my local parkrun here with a muddy outing in old fell shoes. Hardly in the spirit of the 'timed run' event, but slightly annoying nonetheless, especially given the enormous magnitude of this personal worst! I was almost three minutes slower than my 18.14 course PB, which is pretty staggering despite the mud. That said, I really enjoyed the jog from home across the fields (surprisingly dry, much easier than in summer) and I still like the course a lot. It felt a bit like a cross-country race today, and I was quite tired for the jog home back across the fields, which makes it into a pleasant 10k outing.

Helsby half

Race: Four Villages Half Marathon (Helsby)

Time/Position: 1.25.00 (141 from 1686)

This may well be the last half marathon I ever run. It was very nearly seven minutes down on my course PB, and slightly slower even than my plodding Jubilee Bridge time from June. I ran my first half just before my 13th birthday in 1983 and have long since lost count of how many I've done, but suspect it must be around 50 if not more. But although I didn't really suffer too badly here, I also knew I couldn't increase the pace. Part of that was due to a lack of specific training, and that was itself partly due to my continuing heel (and ankle) injuries. It's a shame that I haven't recorded a decent V55 half time to match my times at other distances, but there we go. I started with Gerard, and we paced each other pretty well in good conditions - wet and quite cold with no wind to speak of. I first did this race 20 years ago and think I've done it six times in total: the route has changed a bit over the years but the basic route around Dunham and Manley remains the same, and it is one of the last remaining old style (non-commercial/club-run) local half marathons. As soon as we hit the hills at nine miles, Gerard pulled ahead and I just put my head down and ground it out, knowing I would lose time and places. This race famously finishes with two miles of largely downhill running, but even this didn't go to plan and I struggled to pick up the pace. A little over three years ago I ran 1.18.04 as a 52 year old at the Vyrnwy half, so I'm not sure age is entirely to blame for the rapidity of this decline.

The Horse

Race: The Horse fell race

Time/Position: 1.11 (1st team from 58)

This really enjoyable night-time event round the Cilcain Skyline is now a regular fixture, despite being only three years old. It's the first time I've done it in a 'clockwise year' and also the first time our team has finished first, rather than second as previously (by time that is, there is also a slightly opaque handicap system!). I ran with Jez and Tom this year, both quicker than me on the hills so was in the unenviable position of anticipating a beasting, at least on the way up. It is an easier and better circuit clockwise, however, so while I did lose a fair bit of time to them on the very familiar climb up Famau on the Collie route, I was then able to make it up a little on the flat. It was wet and muddy underfoot after several inches of recent snowmelt, but not quite as bad as I'd expected (three years ago it was run in memorable snowy conditions). We took the contouring path on the way off Famau, avoiding OD and most of the flickering headtorches from rival teams, and this went very well and quickly down to the col despite the mud. The rest of the ridge to Moel is y Coed was tough, me falling behind on every climb, but then comes the grassy direct descent towards the Nannerch bridleway and I had enough energy to push the pace a bit here, which was fortunate. A pint in the very crowded White Horse to finish.

Pen Llithrig

Peaks: Pen Llithrig y Wrach

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

A memorable outing, breaking trail through deep, unconsolidated snow under a blue sky. It was a route forced on us by our late arrival after the parkrun, meaning we couldn't find anywhere to park to do something ridgy and sporty in Ogwen, so had to start in Capel, which was a shame although not remotely surprising. I didn't want to go up Gallt yr Ogof, as we did the lengthy slog up this just before Christmas. Siabod didn't inspire, so Peter and I headed off to Pen Llithrig which was a perfect gleaming white pyramid from Capel. We had this to ourselves but this had the (anticipated and inevitable) effect of meaning we had to break trail from half way up after following two sets of footprints initially. These disappeared where the hill steepens, rendering the rest like a remote Himalayan ascent! The snow was deep and untravelled: I have done this kind of thing before, and it is notoriously exhausting. We moved towards one of the vague ribs on this side, hoping for shallower cover, and this was interesting for a bit. We also had some windblown solid neve at times, which was glorious relief from the sometimes thigh or waist-deep trudging. But we worked well as a team and eventually gained the summit after a unprecedentedly slow ascent! Stunning views from one of the park's best viewpoints. The unusual volume of snow made everything really exceptional, very fortunate after the spectacular festive outings: the last three outings have all given some of the best Welsh mountain views I have had in 40 years, an incredible sequence really. Llewellyn looked stunning, as did Tryfan, plastered in snow. We ate lunch in the sunshine, although the wind was keen. The descent was far easier, although with little real glissading, meaning we had time for a recovery pint in the Albion.

Y Promenad parkrun

'Race': Y Promenad parkrun (Rhos on Sea)

Time/Position: 18.44 (4th from 428)

A pink sunrise with tendrils of mist across the bay as we arrived in Rhos on Sea. This parkrun is only a couple of months old, but I opted for it ahead of the XC championships today for a few reasons, the most important being the winter conditions in Eryri, which I wanted to combine it with. Peter agreed, and we set off as part of a huge field (some other events were cancelled due to ice, it was -1 even in Rhos on Sea!). I couldn't get going, despite brand new shoes, and really felt the cold air in my lungs. The route heads towards Old Colwyn, rather like Twin Piers, then returns via a rather unfortunate extra loop which rather spoils the flow. It also gets very crowded with runners on various stages, just as well it is a timed run, not a race! I felt a little better towards the end, but all in all this was a disappointing performance, at least half a minute slower than I had intended to run. It was enough for another age group course record, but as the event is in its infancy I doubt it will last long. Peter and I then drove up to Ogwen looking for parking places.

Sliema-Valletta

A mini-break in Malta, and an attempt at a tempo 10 miler in advance of the Four Villages half. As such, it went reasonably well although I did struggle with a fairly early start from our hotel in Sliema. The weather was more or less perfect, sunny and warm but not humid. I hugged the coastline along the bays to Gzira and Manoel Island. From here, another little inlet beyond Ta'Xbiex and then it was up surprisingly steep streets to Valletta, which occupies a high fortress position on its own peninsula. I ran straight through the pedestrianised centre, then east to the Grand Harbour, where I took some pictures of the sun rising above the Sleeping Soldier monument. Wonderful views across to the Three Cities and over Valletta itself, looking like a cross between Tunis and Palermo, as you might expect. This was urban running at its best and I wove my way through narrow streets to regain the hill down to Ta'Xbiex and back to Sliema in around 70 minutes for 10 miles, as planned.

Bowstones

Race: Bowstones (11k/1200ft)

Time/Position: 51.29 (47th from 459 [2nd V55])

Massively down on the three previous times I've done this NYE event, but those were 8-10 years ago! This was a personal worst by several minutes but it was still an enjoyable outing, just a bit frustrating that I struggle so much on even gentle hills these days. Conditions were good, cold and icy in places. I wore an old pair of fell shoes, which weren't ideal, and started fairly well up the tracks from Higher Poynton. I slowed on the gradual double climb to the ridge, and then also lost time on the descent, not able to open up in the way I used to on this race. I slipped on ice twice, which didn't help - once quite heavily on my knee just before the woods, and once above the 'Cage', which takes the route round to Lyme Park manor house with superb views over to a vague cloud inversion above which the skyscrapers of Manchester rose. My injured heel and ankle also came into play on the run-in, which felt more like a hobble at times. Despite all that, a nice way to conclude the year, which went fairly well in the new age category - final rankings were as follows: 5k (41st in UK, 2nd in Wales), 5m (21st UK, 2nd Wales), 10k (54th UK, 3rd Wales), 10m (40th UK, 1st Wales).

Cwm Caseg horseshoe

Peaks: Gyrn Wigau, Foel Grach, Carnedd Llewellyn, Yr Elen

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

I have always called this the Cwm Caseg horseshoe, although it has never been popular. I probably first did a version of it in the late 1980s and thought it would be a good route to introduce M to Carnedd Llewellyn, which he's never done. Easterly winds have prevailed for a while now, and this was another day of stunning conditions: thick clag to the east, searing sunshine west. We parked at Gerlan and went up Ciltwllan to the sharp climb up Gyrn Wigau. I've only discovered this recently - a dry, simple and quick way to gain height. From the top, stunning views of our route, with fog banks spilling over the ridge and down into Cwm Caseg. We both wanted to sample the variety so contoured Drosgl and Bera Mawr on the ancient marked Carneddau highway to get views of the cloud bank: absolutely stunning, a thin layer of cloud descending into the remote cwm. Thick tendrils of hoar frost and iced streams made life a little tricky and we soon entered the freezing mist. This then took quite a while to get out of! A thin sun sometimes penetrated but for the most part we remained under it until finally emerging near the summit of Foel Grach. M had never experienced this before, and it is always magical. We also had a glory/brocken spectre to the north, another first for M. Thick banks of cloud east and north, but clear ahead to Llewellyn which looked Alpine under a thin layer of snow. We had lunch on the top of Llewellyn, watching the cloud rolling over the Dafydd ridge - quite a few people up here, almost all of whom had come up from Ogwen (we saw nobody on our route, only here on the summit). Yr Wyddfa and the top of the Glyder ridge were clear, along with peaks to the north and west, but everything else was under the blanket. Then came the wonderful ridge over to Yr Elen, one of my favourite hills, savouring the view back over Cwm Caseg, and then the trot down the ridge in beautiful light. The bog in Cwm Llafar always spoils things a little, but much of it was frozen today. Back in Gerlan with plenty of time left to have a nap then pick up K!

Round the Walls

Race: Round the Walls (4m)

Time/Position: 25.00 (23rd from 488 [1st V55])

Having won my category at age 40, 45 and 50 (five or six in all) I was keen to try to add a V55 win at this, one of my favourite races and an event that means a lot to me. Always really enjoyable, a great family outing and a brilliant way to start Boxing Day. I've done it almost every year since 2009 or so: and today's conditions were up there with the best, cold and frosty but luckily mostly ice-free. I started off too fast for the Roodee lap and started to struggle as we climbed onto the walls at Handbridge. A little later Jez flew past on the steps and I couldn't hang on to him on the gentle climb from the clock up to the tower. I love racing hard on the walls, and still think the current incarnation of the route is the best. I felt a bit sluggish throughout the walls section though, which was disappointing, getting slower each year, but I did win my category by over a minute. Morgan, Kate and Eve all enjoyed it, and the usual relaxing day followed.  

Nantlle west

Peaks: Mynydd Graig Goch, Garnedd Goch, Craig Cwm Silyn

Area: Nantlle Ridge, Eryri

With an easterly airflow shrouding most of the region in mist and low cloud, I tactically headed as far west as possible this morning. A much longer and more awkward drive for me: in fact I have only ever been up in Llanllyfni for various classic climbs in Cwm Silyn. This time I parked near Llyn Dulyn in glorious sunshine then trotted up the vague southerly ridge that leads to the top of Mynydd Graig Goch, Eryri's most westerly hill, in 25 minutes or so. Superb views of the entire Llyn peninsula, although better was to come. Easy terrain then leads to the steep climb up Garnedd Goch, quite shapely from this side. Cloud was spilling over Hebog and prospects looked good, so I continued out to Craig Cwm Silyn, which proved a stupendous ringside seat for the stunning display which followed. Mist filled the valleys to the east, forming then gently dissipating, the peaks of the Nantlle ridge always clear with Yr Wyddfa shimmering above even thicker cloud banks. Across lovely Cwm Pennant, the mist spilled in waves over Hebog and its neighbours. I reminisced about the defunct Pedol Cwm Pennant race, the first edition of which may have been my best ever performance in a longish fell race. I spent half an hour watching the show before trotting back to Garnedd Goch and then taking the direct descent to the car.

Glyderau traverse (Capel-Bethesda)

Peaks: Gallt yr Ogof, Foel Goch, Glyder Fach, Glyder Fawr, Y Garn, Mynydd Perfedd, Carnedd yr Filiast

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

Our traditional pre-Christmas outing, slow but mountainous in tone this year (these festive outings have varied a lot over the years). I have done this route in reverse before, but I don't remember taking the main boggy path from Capel up Gallt yr Ogof before. I've always descended this in the past, and even that is long and gruelling. As a climb, it is fairly relentless. Our quad entered the mist almost immediately, and the day stayed clagged in (pretty thick) until just above Bethesda. There was very little wind though, and we made our way through the bog onto the main ridge. Eventually, we skirted below the summit of Gallt yr Ogof and the gradient eases over to Foel Goch. Once the main climb up Glyder Fach is reached, the ground becomes rockier and a bit more comfortable. Allan was lagging behind a bit so we waited for him a few times, not wanting to get separated in the thick mist. The Glyder plateau is always confusing in mist, even though I've been coming here regularly for over 37 years! But Tom and I ploughed on to the day's highpoint on top of Glyder Fawr where we waited for Jez and Allan. The wind now picked up, a cold easterly (hence my decision to take the ridge in the reverse direction). Steep scree down to Llyn y Cwn and then the slog up Y Garn, tiring now. It looked like it might clear for 30 seconds or so but we were soon enveloped again. The path skirting Foel Goch is probably the nicest running on the entire route but unfortunately Allan fell and hurt his leg early on, so the pace really slowed from this point as we waited. A sharp climb to Perfedd and then a very tricky descent from Carnedd y Filiast. It is always hard to follow the paths down to Ogwen from here, so we took the nose of the ridge towards the Bethesda quarries. This is a path, but it is rocky, heathery and very awkward throughout: a really tough way to finish. A switchback remains really tricky, slippery rock slabs and the like: we all fell at least once, and I rolled my ankle. Finally, Lon Las Cymru and a civilised finish back to Bethesda via a little bridge over the Ogwen. Just time for a quick recovery pint at the Albion.

Ruthin parkrun

'Race': Ruthin parkrun

Time/Position: 18.39 (4th from 107)

Another pedestrian performance, my slowest time at Ruthin in four visits. I felt a bit sluggish from the word go and was around half a minute down on the time I had wanted to run. Nothing too disastrous, however, and as with last week I did take the V55 age category course record, for what it's worth (not much). First age-graded, for what it's worth (not much!). The twists and turns on this course do tend to break up the tempo, but the Clwydian views always make up for it. A very nice family brunch followed.

Elidir Fawr

Peaks: Elidir Fawr

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

After a busy term and late finish, a tiny 'home microbreak' was all I had time for, appending a night at Pen y Pass to our neo-traditional festive Nant Peris hut night. I parked in Dyffryn Mymbyr then walked in to the PyP hostel in dreadful weather, 60 mph gusts and torrential rain, the path mostly under water. The concept was just to spend some relaxing hours staring at the appalling weather in a place I know very well (but I've never stayed at PyP before, having never needed to). As such, it worked a treat and it was especially nice with my Marathon Eryri memories still fresh. A private room with the wind howling outside, a pleasant meal and a peaceful night: lovely place to stay for a change. I woke early for breakfast then left at first light for a light run up to the green hut and a loop of Llyn Llydaw (similar to the New Year race which I have never done). In my new Walsh's, this was awkward, wet and rocky and awkward throughout until I regained the Miners Path. Back down to the hostel to check-out, still dry, and then a jog back to the van before the rain started in earnest. I drove down to meet the hut crew in Pant y Fron at midday, and after a snack we had a good afternoon at the Beacon. After a pleasant evening in the Vaynol and in the hut, we set off for Elidir via the Quarries and up the cables. The weather was much better: windy but dry with mist on the tops but wonderful light to the west: Hebog and Nantlle looking superb framed against a golden horizon. I sheltered in the caban at the top of the cable slabs and then we all walked up to a misty and cold summit. After a snack, I jogged back down to the hut and was in Conwy by 1pm.

Greenfield parkrun

'Race': Greenfield parkrun

Time/Position: 19.23 (2nd from 69)

Half a minute down on my one previous running of this nice course, which heads downhill in a very fast start with the Dee estuary stretching out in front. A loop around the Abbey then leads to the long, hard drag back up to the start: it is a pretty tough route as a result. I have recently 'refound' all the age category parkrun records (just out of interest!) and this was enough to take the V55 course record.

Trac Mon 5

Race: Trac Mon 5m (Border League race 2)

Time/Position: 30.14 (55th from 317 [1st V55])

A workmanlike outing on this good, novel course which loops around a smooth-as-silk motor racing track, exposed to the full force of the prevailing wind near Rhosneigr. I had done it twice before, including (I think) the first time the league ever raced here when I ran it in exactly 28 minutes. It might have been a slightly different route then, however. I was a little conservative today, as both big laps contain a steepish climb, and was disappointed with my time. That said, it did the job, I was first in the category and managed to score in 9th place for Buckley, not easy at my age!

Welsh Regions XC Champs

Race: Welsh Regional XC Championships, Newtown (9k+)

Time/Position: 37.29 (104 from 159 [3rd V55])

This course was a quagmire two years ago and I was expecting a similar experience today after lots of rain. In the event, it was a bit drier (a relative term as there was still a great deal of cloying mud!) and I had a reasonable although unspectacular race. It is always a very strong field, of course, with the best cross-country runners selected from every Welsh region, and I was in the 55-64 category for the first time (I think it's the fourth time I have represented North Wales at this event). It felt very similar to Bala last week, as I started quite cautiously but managed to retain a decent pace for the remaining laps. I scored in second place for the 55-64 team, North Wales came away with the silver medal, and I picked up a pleasing bronze in the competitive individual race.

Bala XC

Race: Bala XC 9k (North Wales League race 3)

Time/Position: 39.16 (52 from 144 [1st V55])

After my puzzling implosion in the season opener at Trefnant, I took a deliberately conservative approach here on this new course through the farmland east of the Tryweryn. Although flat, the course gave a classic cross-country outing with some deep bog mixed with drier bits and a gravel track. I usually pride myself on my pacing, which made the Trefnant issues even stranger, so I plodded fairly slowly around the first lap. I started moving in the right direction on the second lap as the course got even boggier to become a classic XC mudbath, picking up a few places but never really moving particularly quickly! My age group rivals weren't that far behind so it was nice to finish first in the category, not that common for me in cross country. Washing the mud-caked legs in the Tryweryn was an essential cool down!

Preston 10

Race: Preston 10

Time/Position: 61.45 (41st from 247 [2nd V55])

With the cancellation of the border league, I immediately initiated 'plan b' and headed north for this long-established 10 miler. It has been quite some time (maybe almost a decade) since I last did a proper 10 mile road race, and I wanted to see whether I could put down a decent V55 time. As such, this was an adequate performance that probably reflects my current speed and fitness. In my heart of hearts I knew I wouldn't be able to maintain sub-6 minute mile pace for long, so breaking the hour seemed unlikely. On reflection, 6.10 pace probably isn't too bad in the circumstances. My PB is 58.20, set at Wrexham in 2012, and I obviously wasn't thinking in those terms! I went off a bit fast, still wondering whether a sub-hour was on the cards, and undoubtedly paid for that later. I realised the danger at 5k, however, and knocked it back a bit, going through the first five mile lap in 30.30. It was quite a pleasant circuit from Hutton south-west of Preston, along some lanes via Walmer Bridge to a big track down the side of the Longton bypass, which wasn't quite so pleasant! Conditions were perfect: fairly cold and sunny with a light breeze, and the circuit is quite flat. It was bit frustrating to have to concede I will probably never go under the hour again, but at least this was a club record and should get me fairly comfortably into the North Wales all-time top 10 in the category. It combined with the Lancashire Championships, so it was a strong field of serious runners with lots of quick veterans competing.

Widnes parkrun

'Race': Widnes parkrun

Time/position: 18.22 (6th from 323)

Having run 17.36 at the Wirral 5k, I also wanted to add a decent V55 parkrun time to this year's schedule. Widnes, as the 7th fastest parkrun in the UK, seemed a good choice. Sadly, however, enthusiasm triumphed over experience here and this was just too soon after the marathon for a decent performance: I felt a bit jaded and was half a minute slower than I had hoped to run (20 seconds down on my previous running of the course). Still, it was nice to see have a post-run breakfast with Dave and actually we were lucky to avoid the torrential downpours earlier that morning.

Marathon Eryri

Race: Marathon Eryri

Time/Position: 3.26.11 (134 from 2209 [1st V55])

A significant race in several different ways. Firstly, it has been a staggering 19 years since I last did it in 2006. Secondly, I have never won my age category in a marathon before, or even come close. Thirdly, I'm still recovering from the heel injury that meant I missed most of the training I had intended to do. Finally, I had a place for it in 2022 when I was well trained after London, but glandular fever meant I didn't even make the start line! It is also, of course, a wonderful event through a landscape that I know intimately and that means a lot to me. The weather was typical late October, nowhere near as bad as the multiple inclement weather races I've experienced (the OMM and numerous other events at this time of year are one of the reasons I have taken such a long sabbatical from this marathon after my two previous runnings). Basically, intermittent squally showers and fairly strong cold north-westerlies, unpleasant to those unused to it. I wore a light base layer and carried a windproof for emergencies but in the event I was fairly comfortable throughout. The start used to be close to Nant Peris but is now just outside Llanberis and I took it nice and steady down to Nant and then a controlled climb up to Pen y Pass, which I crested in around 35 minutes from the start. This set a sustainable steady pace, nothing spectacular, and I remained conservative on the rapid descent to Pen y Gwryd and then the gravel track down Nant Gwynant (it used to go down the main road). Superb views to a moody Yr Wyddfa as a heavy squall swept in from the North-West (the prevailing direction all day). Along the lovely shores of Llyn Gwynant and Llyn Dinas and then into Beddgelert on 90 minutes. Good atmosphere, and I was pleased to feel quite comfortable despite going through the half way point not much over three hour pace. The crux came next, the long climb out of the village coincided with the day's worst squall, into a violent headwind alongside a hailstorm. All quite draining, and the pace really slowed. That said, it was the same for everybody and the hail soon stopped. Even better, the headwind weakened as we approached Rhyd Ddu and was nowhere near as bad as I'd expected round the shores of Llyn Cwellyn, with superb views over the Nantlle ridge with even a tiny bit of brightness around. Kept a decent pace ticking over until Waunfawr, after which comes the famous savage climax up to Bwlch y Groes. I reached Groeslon in 2.55 and then, as I'd expected, hemorrhaged big chunks of time, especially where the lane gets steep. Another gel revived me, and I did manage to run a little more of the climb than I had expected. Even where it levels out towards the atmospheric old quarry, it stays tough, and more weather came in from the north-west at this point. I was still feeling pretty good, and was looking forward to the descent into Llanberis - but it was, predictably, very slippery and hazardous with lots of people falling on the grass and gravel, not ideal in Vaporflys! Caution was necessary, although I still passed a lot of runners and could finally open out a bit on the tarmac above Llanberis. All told, I lost around four to five minutes over the last 5k from my predicted time at Beddgelert, so not too disastrous. I met Tim and David in the baggage tent, got into warm clothes, and quickly into a warm car heading home for tea!

Trafford 10k

Race: Trafford 10k

Time/Position: 37.05 (227 from 1376 [3rd V55])

A well-known ultra competitive 10k, renowned for fast times. For whatever reason, I had never got round to it before and although I knew I was unlikely even to get near my best V55 time (Colshaw Hall's 36.35 from June) I thought a speed session would be good, the intention being to try to run a controlled and steady race as a confidence boost. This is what happened, and although it was my second slowest 10k since I turned 55, I did feel pretty comfortable until the last kilometre, which was good. As anticipated, a very strong field attracted by a pleasant, flat course in the countryside south of Partington towards Dunham Massey. Finished miles down the field, and was nowhere near the two quickest V55s. A family brunch in Altrincham followed.

Chirk Castle run

Another addition to my 'linear run' exploits over many years. I'd never run to Chirk Castle from home before and thought it would make a good objective from the croft, as I needed to get a 20-miler in before Marathon Eryri and this, a fortnight before, was the last opportunity. It went quite well, from home to Wrexham via Caergwrle, and then skirting the Maelor before heading down Berse Lane parallel to the dual carriageway. At Rhostyllen, I then climbed up towards Johnstown and through Ruabon. Then a lovely section on the recently reopened road over the Dee at Newbridge, which I don't remember ever visiting before. Then Chirk and up the long climb to the Castle, neatly replicating the demands of Eryri. A nice lunch with K and E replenishing calories at the Castle cafe.

Two trig run

Feeling a bit better after Saturday's implosion, and very conscious I still need to get some long, hilly runs in for the forthcoming Marathon Eryri. As such, this was a delightful outing from the house in autumnal late afternoon sunshine, over the hill to Bryn Yorkin then down through Cymau to Ffrith. Lovely low sunshine as I jogged up the forest track and through the thick vegetation to the top of Pen Llan y Gwr with its views of Eryri, then an even more delightful descent to Cae ap Edward and Llanfynydd, then up through Horeb and across the top of Waun y Llyn (the second trig) to wend my way home - still not long enough at 26k but decent elevation gain of well over 2000ft.

St Asaph XC

Race: Llanerch Hall 8k (North Wales XC race 1)

Time: 37m

A disastrous performance with few precedents, the only ones I can think of are when I was taking anti-histhamines for allergies in 2007 or so! I started off fairly steadily, an excellent new course down towards the river from Llanerch Hall in good conditions after a windy period. On the climb back up to the top, I felt weirdly weak, and that set the stage. The rest was a nightmare, torn between packing it in or walking the hills to the finish. I opted for the latter, and suspect a cold or some other infection.

Nant Ffrancon round

Another 17 miler in preparation for Marathon Eryri but this time with an attempt to replicate its demands and profile more precisely. I parked in Bethesda and ran up the A5 all the way to Ogwen cottage in just over half an hour, felt OK but my HR was very high. I then ran alongside Llyn Ogwen to the Milestone Buttress, then back to the old road on the other side of the Afon Ogwen, the opposite side of Nant Ffrancon, all the way down to Lon Las Ogwen and the Slate Trail. Off-road and undulating to the Old Turnpike road and then a long extension through Tregarth all the way to the service station on the A55. Back up the draining climb to Bethesda. Still not long enough, but well over 1000ft of climbing.

Tattenhall BL

Race: Tattenhall 9.8k (Borders League 1)

Time/Position: 37.04 (76th from 448 [1st V55])

The start of my 20th season in the league, on the familiar Tattenhall course. After last week's post-injury 'range finder' I tried again to start steadily, but in the always ultra-competitive league that is easier said than done! As a result, I started to feel uncomfortable fairly quickly, unsurprising after the injury and lack of training. Dark Lane was again too fast, which meant a very tough climb up Harthill Lane and Road, always one of the hardest of Borders climbs. I managed to hold it together by dropping the pace, and kept it steady through Burwardsley to the run in. I lost a few places but nothing too disastrous until the last few hundred metres, where - as last week - I really struggled. Still, nice to win my age category on the opening race as the pace will hopefully pick up when I resume proper training. Miles down the field, but actually only 90 seconds slower than my 2022 time on this course, when I had a bit of a flier and was on good form.

Pen y Fron climbing

Crag: Pen y Fron

Routes: Professor Plumb (f6a:led), With the Crowbar (f6b:sec), In the Pandy (f6b:sec), Leete Entertainment (f6a+:sec)

Second visit to this useful 'new', if slightly scruffy, local venue. Given my limited strength and lack of climbing, it seemed prudent to start with a lead, and I chose what I think was Professor Plumb at a mild 6a (probably easier). Quite steep but with good rests on good flat footholds. As with lots of the routes here, the climbing is better than it looks with a bit of thought usually required, and often hidden (but usually good) holds. Peter then led the two routes to the right, which were both steep and quite awkward in places, before leading the best of this bunch, Leete Entertainment, which takes a groove below what looked initially like a slab but which was actually a fairly steep headwall. Nicely direct with some good technical climbing and high steps, though-provoking and challenging for me with limited upper body strength.

Gyrn Wigau

Peaks: Gyrn Wigau

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

Just a 50 minute time-pressed blast from Gerlan but actually quite interesting, partly because of the superb clarity of light, but also because I don't recall following the narrow lane of 'Ciltwllan' before. It leads directly up to the wonderful tracks of the Carneddau, and means you can get to the top of Gyrn Wigau in half an hour or so. I was a bit tired after recently getting back into my normal training routine as the achilles issue eases - a quicker than usual social run from Llanfynydd last night, for example. The track is well-defined and steep in places and leads to the rocky top of Wigau, a grand seat for views over the central Carneddau, but also down to Yr Eifl and across the whole of Anglesely. Very clear conditions in a bracing fresh breeze. After sitting down and enjoying the view I ran back to Gerlan - 10 minutes from summit to the top farm.

Llangollen canal 18m

Another 'last chance' long run by way of very late preparation for Marathon Eryri. A beautiful morning with tremendous clarity of light, so I probably should have headed for the hills, but it was important to get the mileage in so I parked in Acrefair and ran to Pontcysyllte after which I took the Llangollen canal all the way to Horseshoe Falls near Rhewl. This wasn't as far as I thought it would be, so after doubling back round and through Llangollen, I hadn't done enough so ended with a few very hilly miles over to Ruabon and back - 18 miles in total at a steady but unspectacular pace, heel feeling OK.

Guilden Sutton 10k

Race: Guilden Sutton 10k

Time/Position: 37.51 (16th from 221 [1st V55])

Given the achilles injury and all the travelling, it was very hard to judge form coming into this, as I have barely done any speedwork or racing for two or three months. So I set myself a modest sub-38 target (coincidentally I last ran this long-established race way back in 2007 in 38.04 so that made the sub-38 plan even neater). It isn't the quickest of courses, with a couple of sharp climbs and some steady drags, so I was pleased to feel pretty good, much better than I have of late. Starting from the village, a big lap goes round Pipers Ash to the edge of Chester before looping back round to the main Tarvin Road. I was determined not to go out too quickly, mindful of the way I was hanging on towards the end of the Colshaw Hall 10k in June. But I still pushed a bit too hard on the second lap and then consciously eased off along the Tarvin Road, because I knew a long drag back to the village awaited. This worked, and I felt OK right up to the last 1k where I began to blow a bit, and the sharp climb to the finish was particularly tough as a result.  Two went past me in the last few hundred metres, and there were others in my category not far behind. A slow time but nice to win my category on another of the longest established local races (1982 in this case) and a good marker as I try to get some post-injury form back over the next few months.

Rhuddlan 16

Yesterday's disastrous outing combined with my recent achilles issue and my Peruvian trip has all rendered Marathon Eryri at the end of October an increasingly unlikely objective. I decided that today was the last chance to start training, albeit it is already too late to start properly. I set a minimum target of 15 miles, and would 'run to feel' having abandoned last Tuesday. I set off from Rhuddlan under cloudy skies and within the first mile realised I was back to something approaching normal, and my HR confirmed this. I kept the pace slow, however, and was also troubled by my achilles again (brought on by yesterday's fell shoe outing I suspect). But the heel improved as I climbed gently up to Meliden, fortunately. Through Prestatyn to the Nova Centre and then the long but enjoyable haul along the familiar territory of the prom all the way to Kinmel Bay. The forecast rain started in earnest here, along with a stiff breeze, so I doubled back seeking the shelter of West Rhyl back to Rhuddlan.

Henley Wood parkrun

'Race': Henley Wood (Oswestry) parkrun

Time/Position: 20.26 (3rd from 111)

My Garmin has been warning me all week with its metrics suggesting some kind of health issue. I feel fine, but had to abandon a planned long run on Tuesday and have concluded that it's not an infection, but a hangover from the somewhat ridiculously packed Peruvian schedule. Whatever the reason, I felt dreadful this morning on this route, which is flat but entirely off-road and twisty for two large laps in the woods near the Oswestry A5. I wore an ancient pair of fell running shoes, which didn't help matters, and started off fairly quickly to the point that I led briefly. But I knew pretty quickly that all was not well, and almost stopped before the second lap started. Possibly my slowest ever parkrun, certainly my worst ever 'performance', although - as ever - it's not a race! First age graded, for what its worth.

Castle Inn climbing

Crag: Castle Inn

Routes: Route 1 (f5:sec), Route 2 (f6a:sec), Milf Crack (f5:sec)

Having done only a handful of routes in the last couple of years, I remained passenger today on three routes that I have done many, many times in the past. Indeed, Route 1 is the climb I've done most often, and one which must have a claim to being the most frequently climbed route in North Wales, becoming quite polished now. I actually felt reasonably good, and did feel something of the old stirring when touching rock. More importantly, a very pleasant social morning (for a change) with Peter and Bart.

Vilcanota peaks

Peaks: Vinicunca (5039m/16,532ft), Hatun Ritiyop (5069m/16,631ft)

Area: Vilcanota Range, Andes, Peru

Despite climbing many Alpine peaks, and visiting the Himalaya and numerous other high mountain ranges worldwide over nearly 40 years, I am fairly sure I've never been over 5000m before so this was an interesting test, quite apart from being a spectacular day out. Vinicunca has become a major tourist attraction in recent years, as global warming has revealed its extraordinary geology (inevitably dubbed 'rainbow mountain' by the hordes of global travellers that want their picture taken in front of it). As such, it didn't hold much appeal for crowd-hating me, but it was also the only feasible opportunity for a day in the mountains given my very tight schedule in Peru. I also got it for free, so could hardly choose another option after arrival in magical Cusco. After a 3am start, and breakfast in Cusipata, we headed up a long gravel track to the roadhead, already really high. On Sunday, I had already broken my personal altitude record en route back to Arequipa from Chivay, when the van stopped at the 4910m Mirador de los Andes, a stunning place with views of seven volcanoes, one of which supposedly holds the source of the Amazon. I was breathless then, but since then had acclimatised further with visits to Puno, Titicaca and Cusco itself - in fact I had 'lived' at 3300m or higher for a few days by the time we set off. As a result, I felt OK and most of the route is just an easy stroll up an inclining path: exceptional views over the valley to the left up to Wasaqucha, Nevado del Inca, Takusiri and other glaciated peaks, a giant wall of rock and ice from this angle. Most of the tourists had no interest in those views, as they struggled (many on horseback) up to see the view they wanted for their social media posts. I suspended my cynicism though, as it's not as if I usually have to do things like this, and once I arrived above a steeper section at the obvious col below 'rainbow mountain' it is undeniably impressive. There was some breathlessness, inevitably, and what generally happens is that you feel OK for a while and then hypeventilate briefly as your body struggles for oxygen from time to time. I was well ahead of the hordes and the views were brilliant, out over the Red Valley and further north to the huge peak of Ausungate, with vertical shimmering glaciers and icefalls just visible through layers of cloud. It reminded me of Svaneti in Georgia, me going up small hills while massive 'expedition' peaks like Ushaia and Ushba loomed beyond them. After a while, the crowds did get to me but the day improved as there was an optional extension to the 'red valley' above Pitumarca, which I obviously took. Then, at last, I was free to fly and the crowds melted away. It was absolutely staggering scenery, the lazy cliche would be 'Martian', shades of deep reds throughout, with yellow patches and unnamed peaks rising beyond. A level trail led through red sand to a col, and then instead of going to another 'viewpoint', I saw an opportunity to finally plough up the mountain I had identified as an obvious extension: this was called Hatun Ritiyop (I assume this is Quechua) and was completely empty and vastly more rewarding: 16,631ft. A snow shower was coming in, so I scampered down to final views of the valley, an even deeper red from this angle. A shortcut regains the tourist path as the snow and hail got heavier and a rumble of thunder sounded. A nice lunch in Cusipata followed.

Huacachina dunes

Peak: Huacachina North Dune (520m)

Area: Ica, Peru

This is essentially the extreme northern end of the vast Atacama desert, the driest place on Earth. As such, the desert here is classic 'erg', with sand dunes stretching into the distance. It is marred a little by Huacachina, a famous oasis that is now a backpacker's hangout. I didn't want to stay there, so instead I stayed in a hostel at the edge of nearby Ica, a big and bustling lowland Peruvian town. I had arrived in Lima in the middle of Tuesday night/Wednesday morning, then travelled to Ica via the Ballestas Islands today. I set off from Ica (just after seeing a superb vermillion flycatcher from my room window!) and made my way towards the huge north dune which throws down a sandy north-east 'ridge', which I ploughed up. The sand was fine, making the going ridiculously hard, constantly sliding downwards. But at the top, stunning views over Ica, the oasis, and most notably the vast dune system stretching into the interior: a spectacular sight and far more impressive than I had expected. A level wind-formed 'ridge' led along the top of the dune where I rested before plunging down the other side of the dune to the south-west. A jog through the oasis led back to the hostel for lomo saltado and chilcado.

SC-Neston run

If yesterday had been an attempt to regain sharpness after the injury, there is also an urgent need to increase the mileage if I am to have any chance at Marathon Eryri. As such, this was an equivocal success: the heel wasn't too bad, but I was aware of it most of the time, unlike yesterday. The idea was to get at least 15 miles in, a shorter northbound version of the full Wirral traverse I did in early 2020 (the 'north' version of the four long compass point runs I occasionally indulge in). It was very hot and humid, which didn't help, and I was already tired through Hawarden to Queensferry. This got worse through the Deeside industrial estate, which is psychologically tough at the best of times. Then came the nicer marshland near Burton but it was a real struggle to the Harp in Little Neston where I called it a day after a little over half marathon distance, badly dehydrated and generally depleted. I then walked the two miles to our meeting point in Neston and we did a picnic walk from Moreton. Only a partial success: minimal heel discomfort but a weird tiredness which may have a range of possible causes.

Hope parkrun

'Race': Park in the Past parkrun

Time/Position: 18.30 (2nd from 257)

After shockwave therapy at the physio on Wednesday, and a couple of cautious runs, I felt it was safe to try the local parkrun in an attempt to retain some sharpness. It went very well, and for a while it looked like I was going to record my third 'win' at the event (which isn't a race!). At the end, the very young lad in the little group of four front runners turned on his youthful finishing kick, which the old man couldn't match. All very encouraging after being barely able to walk less than three weeks ago.

Wirral ride

As with my Heswall run, this took advantage of the Borderlands train as an easy day was in order. From home I rode through Hawarden then down to Queensferry Sports to pick up a hat. At the blue bridge, I followed the Wirral cycling path through to Neston which I haven't done in its entirety for years, not since riding with Morgan and the cubs! I do run this route a couple of times a year, however. After Neston I went down to Parkgate for ice cream at Nicholls, something of an institution. After a cloudy start, some sunshine peeked through as I climbed up towards Heswall. There was an annoying headwind throughout, courtesy of the high pressure easterly that has kept the weather dry for months. This became so annoying that I abandoned plans to cycle east along the tip of the Wirral and stayed sheltered for the inland route to Arrowe Park and then Upton. As I wanted an easy day, this was a better option anyway, and I got the train back to Penyffordd from Upton then cycled back: only around 50k in total.

Ogwen-Orme 100k

Two weeks since the injury but some signs of improvement, and with more cycling now in my legs I decided to up the mileage on a stunning morning of perfect clarity. This is quite unusual for August, but given the time of year an early start was necessary to minimise the traffic so I slept in Hod and left at 7.30am. Beautiful riding south down the west side of the Conwy valley with numerous sharp climbs and steady drags through Tal y Bont and Trefriw to Betws. A bacon bap and mocha for breakfast by the bridge, and it was still relatively quiet for the very familiar road to Capel Curig, which I don't remember ever cycling before. Stunning views of Siabod and then Yr Wyddfa, searing clarity. I pushed through Capel and then upped the pace through Ogwen as the road finally starts to descend at the lakeside. The descent down Nant Francon is superb, really quick. I have run this in the past, but again I'm not sure whether I have ever ridden it. Less than 10 minutes from Ogwen Cottage to Bethesda: and a 16.40 10k from Gwern Gof, which by my abysmal standards is quick. A short water break and then up and along the very narrow Ffordd Coetmor. This is more like a path than a road but leads all the way down and over the A55 with Penrhyn Castle ahead. Then comes a superb cycle route (5) all the back to Conwy. Next to the A55 at times, then inland through Llanfairfechan before hugging the coast from Penmaenmawr. A nagging easterly breeze but not too bad, and then I encountered the crowds for the first time at Conwy Morfa. A short break for milk and snack in Conwy, and then a 20k extension round the Conwy half marathon route: 20 minutes for the loop of the Orme round Marine Drive with the sea glistening deep blue below.

Wrexham-Chester 70k

First major injury for many years (last one may have been 2011) which reared its ugly head towards the end of a longish run on the 3rd. Looks likely to be insertional achilles so it has been straight back onto the bike (which is completely pain free) in an effort to maintain some kind of fitness. On Friday, an interesting double loop from Conwy over Sychnant and back along the coast before Pabo Lane to the Little Orme and back. Yesterday, a 45k Aldford loop for coffee in Chester with Peter. Today, a longer outing, up the 'Steps' from Cefn y Bedd to Bwlchgwyn (a horrible, uneven climb which I have always disliked). Fast descent through Coedpoeth to Wrexham. Through town and out to Marchwiel and Bangor on Dee. Over the old bridge and then the delightful lanes through Shocklach to Farndon. I was getting hungry here, but held on along the Aldford road until the Coop in Huntington. I finished along the Dee to Saltney Ferry than back home via Sandly Lane: 70k with 700m or so of ascent, mainly at the start.

High Raise loop

Peaks: Sergeant Man, High Raise

Area: Central Fells, Lake District

Probably the dullest hill in the Lakes, High Raise famously occupies a very central position. After yesterday's race, and a poor night's sleep in the van, the legs were unwilling this morning. Shame, as this terrain was mostly new to me, indeed I'd never even been up High Raise. For that matter, I don't think I've ever visited Easedale Tarn either, so incorporated it into the day, first taking the road towards Helm Crag that E and I did a couple of years ago. At Toddle Howe, a delightful track along the banks of Easedale Beck leads gently towards a short climb along Sour Milk Gill to gain the hidden cwm containing the tarn, which is very pretty. The sun came out at this point and the dappled landscape back down to Grasmere and over to Fairfield and yesterday's race route was lit to perfection, still fairly early in the morning. The climb up towards Belles Knott and the upper valley was tiring, my legs really suffering after yesterday. But eventually I got to the main watershed (with Langdale on the other side) and the terrain was kinder to my legs up to the rocky outcrop of Sergeant Man. The entire district is visible from here. Some peaks were a bit claggy, especially Helvellyn across the valley. But Scafell Pike, Bowfell, Coniston and the Langdales were clear, bringing back many happy memories since my first Lake District hillwalking trip in 1988! An easy plod over dull moorland to the vague top of High Raise, just a swelling really, with this area feeling more like the Pennines. I took a direct line back over pathless terrain (awkward around Birks Gill) to eventually gain the main path down Far Easedale which is the valley below Helm Crag and Gibson Knott. I trotted down this to pick up the lanes back down to the hostel.

Rydal Round fell race

Race: Heart of the Lakes Rydal Round (16k/3300ft)

Time/Position: 1.55.27 (40th from 108)

You don't look a gift horse in the mouth, and it was pure fluke that my end-of-leave-year micro break coincided with the famous 'Ambleside Sports' on the last Thursday in July. I only found out about it at the last minute, just before I left home: a special day that celebrates traditional Lakeland events like Cumberland wrestling and, of course, fell racing. So although I was planning three relaxing days in the hills as a break from all the recent road running, I couldn't let up the opportunity to do such a classic race. This was partly also because one the few gaps on my 'classic Lakes race CV' is the Fairfield Horseshoe, which this is a version of. I've walked and jogged it a lot, in fact I first went round it way back in 1988! Normally, I wouldn't have done 11 miles in the hills the day before a big race, but I wasn't bothered as the last thing I wanted was to hammer a hard fell race given all my current road running priorities. After a full breakfast at the Grasmere hostel, I enjoyed the leisurely bike ride down to the sports field and had a coffee while I waited for the race, the first event of the day. A great atmosphere, and more or less perfect conditions, warm but not too hot with a light westerly over the tops. We left the field and headed to a level track that leads to Rydal and from here the main climb up and over Nab Scar begins. This was a bit hot and stifling, and is steep and hard throughout. I felt fairly good, however, although I was inevitably miles off the pace given the obvious fact that I have been focused on short, flat road races for several months. From Heron Pike, I really enjoyed the entire ridge up to Fairfield. I got all the right lines, the views are superb, and I felt comfortable, reaching the summit in a little over the hour. The descent was a different story, sadly, tricky and rocky over Hart Crag and then fast running down to Dove Crag led me to think I was on for a decent time. But the descent then becomes awkward over High and Low Pike. It's been decades since I did this bit of the ridge and I had forgotten it. There are a few tricky rises and some awkward ground, including the bad step and some rocky tracks. I was also caught by a familiar face, Neil from Warrington, and we had a grand old battle down to the sports field, which I lost! We had a pint in the sunshine as the other events took place, and I then cycled back to the hostel for a relaxing evening. A great way to conclude an eventful month.

Kentmere west

Peaks: Ill Bell, Yoke

Area: Kentmere, Lake District

A bonus mini-break to the Lakes. The forecast initially suggested that today would be by far the best weather-wise so I had originally planned a long version of the Kentmere Horseshoe by way of initial preparation for the Snowdonian Marathon. But plans were altered a little due to my late discovery that a classic fell race was scheduled for tomorrow. So I didn't want to empty the tank today, but neither did I want to completely change my plans so I settled on a compromise solution. I parked halfway between Staveley and Kentmere, as the village itself is notoriously tricky to park in. I've done the proper Horseshoe three times I think, including the race itself. But today I jogged up the quiet road over Low Bridge to the lovely village, incredibly tranquil, and then took the ancient tracks towards the reservoir. The valley of the River Kent itself is to the right, with Kentmere Pike (the last peak on the race) rising above. The track was good, and so I made quick progress and that continued round the lake to a short-cut which led across to the vague North-East ridge of Ill Bell. This is very steep indeed, especially towards the top, and I took it very steady in order to save energy. Cloudy but great views down to Kentmere and over to High Street, Froswick and beyond. Towards the central Lakes it was a little more misty so I was quite lucky. From Ill Bell I took the easy path over to Yoke, where a wasp got under my shirt and stung my left shoulder, like a needle. I could still feel it 24 hours later, and the itching continued for days. I cut the boggy corner to the Garburn Pass (Windermere on the right) and then took this back to Kentmere, ancient, rocky and awkward: from memory the race route takes this at the start. A pleasant return to the van and then a late lunch from Booths before checking into the Grasmere youth hostel.

Holyhead Breakwater 5

Race: Holyhead Breakwater 5m (North Wales Championships)

Time/Position: 29:18 (14th from 110 [1st V55])

An unusual and enjoyable race, which takes the slender Holyhead Breakwater all the way to the lighthouse with the Irish Sea on both sides. This makes it rather exposed to the wind, but today those winds were light. That said, it was still enough to slow me down and stop me from recording the sub-29 I had intended to run. I felt good on the outward leg which leaves Holyhead at Newry Beach and heads along Porth y Felin before making its turn towards the breakwater. Like Birkenhead, I felt really good initially, running 3.30km/5.40 mile pace, which would have produced a good time for my age. The breakwater is slightly uneven on large slabs but it was all quite enjoyable until the turn where I began to slow a little. This really worsened on the incline up the gravel back towards Porth y Felin and I lost a significant amount of time here. Fortunately, once back on the tarmac I improved to a fast though depleted finish and at least managed to improve my Birkenhead time from Wednesday, even though I felt I ran better at that race and my pace seemed far quicker (as I still think it was a bit long!). Three very fast V50s in the open race ahead of me, but I did have the consolation of first V55 in the incorporated North Wales Championships, which I have won before in other age categories (13th in the UK rankings). Kate and I then relaxed with a Trearddur Bay coastal walk and paddle as the sun came out. I later found out that I'd broken the all-time North Wales V55 record which has stood since 2008, so that was nice! Also currently 3rd all-time for 5k after the Wirral race, but only 8th all-time for 10k with my Colshaw Hall performance.

Birkenhead 5

Race: Birkenhead Park 5m

Time/Position: 29.27 (29th from 385 [1st V55])

One of the oldest races in the wider region, although I last did it 15 years ago. A strange race tonight: I felt good and was recording fast 5.40 miles throughout the race, but there was a disconnect between what my watch was telling me and what the mile markers were saying. I usually race on instinct but this was unsettling as my Garmin tends to undermeasure everything, especially short races. I paced it well: one fast short lap is followed by three long ones. I consciously eased off for the middle long lap but otherwise kept a good pace ticking over despite the somewhat disappointing result, which does lead me to wonder whether the race was a little long. Still, it was at least a reasonable V55 5 mile time to go along with my reasonable 5k and 10k times, albeit about 30 seconds slower than I had hoped to run and at least a minute slower than my Garmin suggested I was running!

PitP parkrun

'Race': Park in the Past parkrun

Time/Position: 18.17 (1st from 306)

Some kind of speed session was needed after two weeks of plodding up mountains and with two big five mile races coming up. So I trotted across the fields this morning in a pair of ancient shoes, just intending to do a tempo session around the parkrun. To my surprise, however, the first lap was the fastest I have recorded on the course (my 4th time here). This set me up for a decent session and I eventually caught the young lad ahead and another runner to find myself out in front. Not a race, of course, but this was my second first place finish at the event and more or less equalled my best time.

Aoos Gorge

A final outing, jogging along the Aoos Gorge towards the Stomiou monastery. The night before I had paddled in the Aoos before eating trout caught from the river staring up at the old Konitsa bridge, as well as the gorge and Gamila's superb pyramidal peak beyond. This morning I ran from my hotel on the main road to cross the bridge and then along the riverside track up the gorge. Quite delightful although I was now tired! I turned round just before the monastery then took the same track back to the bridge and Hotel Aoos. And that was that. After a spanakopita breakfast I drove through wild and remote mountains (turning back for petrol after 40k!) to Grevena and then the motorway to Vergina and the incredible tomb and treasures of Philip II of Macedon.

Trapezitsa

Peaks: Trapezitsa (2024m)

Area: Konitsa, Pindos, Greece

A beautiful, almost entirely wooded, peak which rises directly above Konitsa, the town I had retreated to after coming down from the hut. After 6000m or so of elevation gain since the weekend I was pretty tired so had a double cappuccino and enormous pastry before leaving town! As this was likely to be my last significant outing of the trip I went for a 'speed' ascent, a relative term, leaving the high col above Konitsa in warm weather with heat and humidity building. I trotted at a reasonable pace through some meadows before entering thick woodland, very atmospheric. The route was well marked, which made a pleasant change, and begins to gain height fairly relentlessly. It passes an eroded stream gully quite early and then weaves round the eastern slopes of the peak before another badly eroded section where the path has presumably been washed away. The mountain is quite steep and an awkward detour gains a narrow contouring path which leads to the final steep climb to the summit rocks. Views begin to open out (and I disturbed some chamois here) and the route kinks suddenly rightwards and takes on a rockier character. A short pitch up a groove would have been UK grade 3 or so, but had a rope down it, and it is all quite short-lived. But the summit was a superb place, surprisingly rocky and exposed, with stunning grandstand views across to the Gamila escarpment. From all those peaks, I'd looked down at the soft blue mountain of Trapezitsa, so it was very satisfying to look up from the opposing viewpoint. I was up in 1.25 according to the Strava segment, which seems OK given the 1100m vertical interval. I trotted back down through the Bosnian pines at a quick but cautious pace, very hot by the time I reached the car. I refuelled with superb tirokafteri and souvlaki at a locally famous hole-in-the-wall place in Konitsa. 

Tsouka/Vikos

Peaks: Tsouka (2251m), Lapatos (2190m)

Area: Zagori, Greece

Scratching around for final morning options from the hut, having already bagged the key summits, this leapt out as the only feasible opportunity. It is basically the end, and highpoint, of the ridge that leads north from the hut and therefore doesn't require a descent. It was satisfying to have already picked off the main objectives, so this was intended as merely a leg stretcher, and obviously those legs were tired. After a decent night's sleep (fewer snorers) I had a leisurely breakfast, dumped my stuff, and set out for Tsouka in cooler weather. There wasn't even a trace of a path as soon as the immediate environs of the hut were left and this set the tone. I tried to contour the early rises as it was obvious that the true summit was some way off. The perfect clarity of yesterday had given way to more hazy and somewhat cooler conditions but the terrain was awkward tussocks until I got to the final col below the real summit of Tsouka at the end of the ridge. I passed a giant sinkhole then a steep section led to the small summit, poised over the escarpment to the north. Superb views down to Trapezitsa and Konitsa, where I was heading next: variegated shades of blue in the morning light. To the right, Smolikas and yesterday's peaks. The mountains along the Albanian border were also impressive, I'd watched the sun set behind them (Tumba maybe?) each night at the hut. Good numbers of Balkan chamois, along with both normal choughs and Alpine choughs. I returned much more directly over the crest of the ridge, well defined in places and with a hint of a path, much easier than my contouring. I took in one or two subsidiary summits (possibly called Lapatos and Koutsomitros) and then picked up my kit at the hut before jogging all the way down to Mikro Papigo (45 minutes at a relaxed pace). After dropping off my kit and recuperating at the car, I wandered through the cobbled alleyways and vines of this archetypal Zagori stone village then did the 6k walk to the edge of the Vikos Gorge, arguably Europe's (even the world's) deepest (by certain measures) and a wonderful sight. From the far end, you can see down to the blue waters of the Voidomatis river far below. I was conscious I was only scratching the surface of the gorge, so to speak, but a partial view was better than nothing. I tried to recuperate with a dip in the rock pools, but they were ruined by a party of 50 or more noisy Israelis so I beat a hasty retreat to Aristi. Here I had a superb lunch of gigantes beans with local greens and herbs, looking back up at Astraka and Tsouka, this morning's peak, a giant whaleback from the village. I could even see the hut, a speck on the high col, as the weather closed in and thunder rolled around.

Gamila and Stoma

Peaks: Gamila (2497m), Stoma (2466m)

Area: Tymfi, Zagori, Greece

Gamila is the highest peak in the Tymfi range and looks tremendous from Konitsa and other points below the northern cliffs. It dominates the view from the old bridge over the Aoos Gorge, for example. From other angles it is still an impressive wedge-shaped mountain although it is actually a straightforward and very enjoyable outing from the Astraka Hut. After a reasonable night despite the top bunk and snorers, I had the standard hut breakfast with coffee looking out over the lower valley then headed out into a stunning cloudless morning, temperatures already on the rise. The first part of the day was the annoying descent, a repeat of yesterday, as well as the rocky shallow gorge. But at the meadows, a single cairn indicates the turn for Gamila. This leads north-west into a giant valley with the Dolomite-like peak of Ploskos to the left and Gamila straight ahead, just a low whaleback from this angle, barely distinguishable. The weather and ambience was glorious: deep blue skies, not outrageously hot, perfect clarity in all directions. The tiny path takes a cunning line through the karst, using little grassy valleys interspersed with rocky steps until the upper cwm is reached. It then steepens and gets rockier with the walls of Ploskos closing in on the left, and it stays vague throughout although probably less so than many in the range. Above, a col is reached between Gamila and Ploskos with a plummeting gully directly ahead: the edge of the giant escarpment. I took the contouring path below Gamila before leaving it and taking a direct beeline to the summit at the top of the sloping 'wedge'. Half way up, views over the gulf opened out to the famed Drakolimni lake, glistening azure far below (this was the main objective for most of the hut residents). Beautiful wooded hills to the north like Trapesitza came into few (I hoped to do them from Konitsa). At the summit was a Greek couple and the lady identified some of the other peaks for me (wrongly in the case of Stoma!). Ahead was Smolikas, Greece's second highest, and far to the east was - unless I am much mistaken - Mount Olympus itself, which I climbed way back in 1994. The most notable aspect of the view, however, was the stunning vertical escarpment, with the northern cliffs plummeting down to Konitsa and a range of wooded valleys. The strange nature of the geology is really clear from the small summit: vertical drops on one side, steep grassy slopes on the other. Stoma loomed across the escarpment and seemed an essential addition so I took the ridge line down to a rocky col between the two peaks. More spectacular gullies and ridges to the north, and the rise to Stoma was steep but short. From here, I could have continued but as I'd enjoyed the climb so much I just contoured Gamila and descended the same way back to Xerolimni, where I took a very big diversion to take in Drakolinmi, the lake everyone visited (even though I had already looked down on it). I crossed the dry lake then crested a vegetated rise to gain the main path, by far the biggest in the region. It was very hot and airless by now, and I was tiring and running out of water and calories. I gained the lake with its magnificent views up to Gamila which looks unfeasible in all sorts of ways from here, hard to believe I was there an hour or two ago. Then it was back down to the depression and then a final climb back up to the refuge, where I immediately ordered pasta! Around 17k, 1300m in 4.5 hours, mostly to do with the awkward karst landscape again, and the heat later on. After delightful pasta looking back at Gamila from the hut balcony, I spent an ultra relaxing afternoon with Greek coffee and then local veal with potatoes.

Astraka traverse

Peaks: Astraka (2486m), Kalogeros (2112m) 

Area: Pindos, Greece

Into the Tymfi range this morning, in many ways the focal point of the wider Zagori. Astraka is one of the most notable mountains and, like the rest of the range, has a slightly unusual structure: huge limestone walls forming impressive escarpments to the north, with the ground sloping far more gently to the south. After breakfast in Metsovo, I left with some regret and drove via Ioannina to the famed Zagori villages with their stone roofs and quaint alleyways. I had a coffee in Kalpaki which was much needed for the rigours ahead. I parked outside Mikro Papigo and then started the walk-in to the Astraka hut with three days worth of kit, under the midday sun! Needless to say, this was hard work: only 6k or so but over a 1000m vertical interval. I took it steady, with the towers of Astraka on the right and the huge cleft of the Vikos Gorge beyond. I'm no stranger to these kinds of hut plods, and there is a technique to making it bearable and even enjoyable I always think. Still, it was a relief to get to the refuge, where I left most of my kit. I wasn't sure whether I would have the energy for Astraka, but after a short rest I thought I might as well go for it given my varied objectives for the three days. The hut, named after the peak, is superbly positioned on a high col, but this means an annoying descent down to the (seasonal) lake of Xerolimni (just a dusty depression in July). Then came a rocky section below the most impressive section of Astraka's Towers, soaring vertically up to the right. Above, the ground levels off into meadows some of which were grazed by cows, and then close to the Robozi lake before cutting westwards and climbing steeply through a gap to an upper cwm. The very vague path weaves through this until it eventually gains the main plateau and gently sloping summit area. Again, no path but there were a few cairns as I weaved north-westwards towards the escarpment and, eventually the true summit. This is in a spectacular position above the cliffs with tremendous views over Gamila (wedge-shaped from this angle, and the objective for tomorrow), as well as Smolikas beyond. Behind, the top of the Vikos Gorge. It had clouded over a little but the karst scenery was still superb. I decided to continue the traverse rather than return the same way as it seemed similar in terms of energy expenditure. This was a great decision, over a secondary summit and some huge gullies to the broad western ridge with tremendous views down to the Zagori villages. This trended south-west past lots of Balkan chamois (I saw at least 40 today, a substantial proportion of the 1500 left in the wild). Lower down it became classic limestone pavement interspersed with sinkholes (some huge caves here) and other tricky karst features. Another peak called Kalogeros marked the end of this section, just the top of a spur really, and then the ridge kinked north and became rocky and even a little narrow in places. This was unexpected but a little tiring as the terrain was steep - I could see the hut path below and, after much weaving and height loss I eventually reached it (superb red-backed shrike here). The climb back up to the hut up the steepest part of the hut walk was very tiring as I was now on 2000m elevation for the day, but there is a natural spring half way up which helped! Local bean soup with bread, and mountain tea with honey was nice but probably not calorific enough (a very unusual error for me!) and I was in the top bunk of the dorm without a guard rail: great views down to the villages 1300m below but not conducive to a good night's sleep.

Kalogeros

Peaks: Kalogeros (2092m)

Area: Pindos, Greece

Although not far from the motorway, which you can actually see at times, this wild cirque of peaks is about as untravelled as it gets in Europe. I could find no information about it, although the dominant mountain in the cirque might be called Lakmos. It just seemed irresistible to get among them, even though I couldn't find any information, so I took the tortuous road to the tiny remote village of Antochori, itself a long drive from Metsovo (although again not far from the motorway, weirdly). A multi-day marked trail called the Epirus trail is in development, so I tried using this initially. In development in this case means no trace of a path! After much thrashing through vegetation, I was burning too many energy matches - exhausting progress, thigh-deep. So I gave up and tried a shepherd's rubble track instead. After a few hundred metres I spied a shallow scree gully which seemed to lead directly upwards to the start of the ridge, so I took it. My instinct was more or less correct: it steepened after 500m or so and became quite hard work, but I persisted and my assumption that the vegetation would diminish was correct. Lots of calling quail below the ridge, which I eventually gained. It was broad but finally gave me an overview. I could see the whole cirque as well as peaks further east. Assuming Lakmos is the main summit, it looked almost Alpine, and I would estimate at least two days for the full traverse, with the possibility of some technical bits. The ridge had a tiny semblance of a path in places and led to the first summit, a huge whaleback when viewed from Metsovo across the valley. It had a cairn, and I transcribed it from Greek as Kalogeros. I think this is 'monk' if my alphabet transcribing is correct! It was a cloudy day, but they didn't really look threatening and I was pleased with the cool weather. I had a yen to continue a little over the ridge but as I descended to the deep col between Kalogeros and the next peak, I saw a distant sheepfold and almost immediately heard dogs barking! There was no way I was going to pass them in the narrow col, so I took it as a sign and contoured the hill away from their sight (I was wearing a red race t-shirt so was very visible!). This worked, and the barking stopped. But it meant a completely trackless and very steep, rocky descent down to a shepherd track. When I reached it I had a rest and a drink before taking various tracks all the way down to the village. Actually, not all the way down as a shepherdess (about the same age as me) stopped to give me a lift in her ancient pick-up, whether I wanted one or not! A lovely gesture, and actually a nice way to save energy as the sun came out and it got predictably hot. An unusual day, very rewarding in a lot of ways, and I would have taken any summit at the start of the day. Potentially a tremendous area for mild exploratory mountaineering.

Kaligomeno Aloni

Peaks: Kaligomeno Aloni (1593m)

Area: Metsovo, Greece

After leaving Meteora, we drove to Thessaloniki and had an urban final night. This morning, I did a swift 5k before a bougatsa breakfast and airport drop-off. Then, the longish drive to Metsovo, which exceeded my expectations. I had chosen it for my first two nights as perhaps the most accessible mountain town in the Pindos, the range which this solo week was intended to explore. But it was delightful, and with a spectacular wild cirque of peaks to the south which I didn't know much, if anything, about. Instead, my intention had been to head to peaks like Flega to the north. I realised after checking in to the characterful Hotel Bitouni (ideal for me) that these were too far away, but I'd got to Metsovo so efficiently (an amazing road from Thessaloniki) that I had time to kill. I found a little circuit above town which I could reach via a steep 3k track. This was part of the Ursus Trail in the tracks of the brown bear, but bears weren't my concern: sheepdogs were. However, I didn't expect an encounter within 10 minutes of setting out on the tamest (and only) marked trail of the week - but that is what happened. At the top of the track, I found the trail and set off, enjoying the relaxed and easy aperitif. Through the first section of woodland I reached a clearing and then came the incident: very loud barking from the trees up left and then four or five huge dogs pelting down the hill towards me, their metal chains dragging along the ground. Time stood still and I thought I would be set upon, but they didn't, just came very close. I could hear an occasional shout from a hidden shepherd and knew enough not to run. I quickened my pace with them snapping at my heels and eventually (but only after a few anxious minutes) the barks faded. After rounding the corner, though, I heard the barks start up again as if two of them had decided to have a second go. They got louder and louder until they were at my heels again! Properly scary, so I upped the pace again and when they faded for a second time, I ran, eating up the ground along the trail passing some side valleys with excellent views of the cirque to the south. That was it, fortunately, and the rest of the trail was tranquil although I was shaken and a little concerned about the feasibility of the rest of the trip given the tame, marked terrain I was on. A short climb through thick woodland gained an open summit with great views to the cirque and over to Flega and the rest further north. I was greatly looking forward to getting acquainted with all of it, and trotted down to the start of the circuit where I had a little rest admiring toads, frogs and lizards that had gathered round a little pond. I trotted down the track to Metsovo but had another canine encounter, this time passing a herd of goats with their 'guard'. who leapt into life and chased me down the track. I calmed down with a beer on the balcony looking out at the rooftops of Metsovo and the surrounding mountains. I refuelled with a local speciality, a kind of stifado with aubergine, veal and metsovo cheese, and a glass of retsina or two.

Meteora circuit

A wonderful walk with Morgan, right from the door of our hotel in Kastraki. Over the past few years, we've developed a tradition of doing a mountain day as part of our family holiday. That was an option this morning, but with the stunning terrain of Meteora on our doorstep it seemed far more sensible to fashion an outing there instead. The day before I had run up the road to the Agiou Stefanou monastery and we had all done a family walk in desperately hot weather to Varlaam. It was a tad cooler this morning, so we found the paths through dark woodland taken in places by the E4, with the towering walls of Altsos hemming us in to the east. I had seen a potential way to reach those peaks, so looked out for it and we took a side path up a spectacular narrow cleft which turned out to be the Lianomodia Couloir. This was somewhat claustrophobic and stifling but short-lived and we soon arrived into the light on a big sun-drenched plinth in a spectacular position surrounded by the Altsos pinnacles and with huge trench valleys ahead and below: memorable. Back down, then round to the descent below the Monastery of the Holy Trinity. This led through an even more narrow cleft to evenutally pick up the standard Trinity Trail and then the first houses on the edge of Kalambaka. One of these was a delightful taverna, so we stopped for local sausages, Greek yoghurt, local honey and freshly-squeezed orange juice. Then back to the ladies in Kastraki. The day after this I did a longer early morning 15k running loop of a similar circuit: absolutely stunning.

Deeside ORGP

Race: Deeside Off-Road Grand Prix (Race 2)

Time/Position: 25.59 (10th from 101 [1st V55])

Given the imminent fortnight in Greece, I made a last minute decision to enter this on the night by way of a final speed session before our very early morning flight. It was a good decision, as I felt fairly good and was pleased with my performance, which wasn't flat out as it's not as if you're going for a specific time. I did the series in 2021 and won my category, and this giant loop anticlockwise was similar to that year's new course, along the banks of the Dee at Shotton, then back through the meadows.