Clwydian run (Clwyd Gate-Nant y Garth)

A promising hill run this morning, in claggy, humid conditions. Felt good, surprisingly, so a good confidence boost for the 1000s next Saturday. Started from Llanarmon yn Ial intending to run over the tops of the six peaks between Clwyd Gate and Nant y Garth. Ran up to the Garreg Lwyd col, then up and down Moel Gyw. Then over Boncyn Banhadlen to the summit of Moel Llanfair, down the splendidly situated track (east) to join the OD path, breaking off again to run to the summit of Moel y Plas. Then excellent running along OD over the shoulder of Moel y Gelli, to the steep road east of Moel y Waun. Up to the summit of this hill too, then along the ridge to Moel yr Accre and back to the road via Brenhinlle Fawr. Then took the bridleway back via Llyn Gweryd to Llanarmon.

Cneifion arete

Nicely rounded off a very successful and active May yesterday with an ascent of old favourite Cneifion arete with Rich in beautiful sunshine. Last did this Alpine-style (M/III) ridge about 16 years ago, in big boots with no rope. Older, and wiser, we pitched it this time after approaching it via the East Wall Gully scramble (II) above Idwal. I led the nice initial wall, the only remotely problematic bit, up past two spikes to a short traverse and the belay. Then led up the sandy chimney to the upper arete. We continued to pitch this, but pleasingly efficiently, almost moving together keeping to the crest. Superb warm sunshine and fabulous crystal clear views under a deep blue sky. After lunch on the crest, we moved up to the Gribin ridge (I) and religiously followed the crest for more warm scrambling to the summit ridge then the top of Glyder Fawr. Heavy sacks, and tired legs (still suffering from the marathon) meant a quick jog down past Twll Du to Idwal and the car. Little running last week, just trying to recover in time for the 1000m race next Saturday. Managed a short one on Thursday, and did the Colomendy run on Friday: up Moel Famau in perfect weather again. Will try a fell run tomorrow, and perhaps intervals on Tuesday.

Glenshee mountains

The weather in Scotland was so good that it was impossible to resist driving up to the edge of the Highlands from Perth yesterday. Parked in Glenshee ski carpark, and tried to ignore the post-marathon muscle damage in my legs as I ploughed up the Cairnwell, probably Scotland's ugliest mountain, in 15 mins. From the col, though, the horrors of the ski resort are left behind. With the sun out, a brisk wind, big snow patches and scudding clouds, it was a wonderful walk above Loch Vrotachan to the broad ridge up Carn a'Gheoidh. Great views over Glas Tulaichen and Beinn a'Ghlo. Time was limited, so I jogged back to the col and nipped up the third munro of the day: Carn Aosda, another hideously disfigured skiing peak. But again interesting views to the central Cairngorms. A long (7 hour?) drive home meant stiff legs, but I seem to be recovering relatively well from the marathon.

Edinburgh marathon

Broke the big barrier at the Edinburgh marathon, finishing in 2:57:52, for 110th place from 7000. The culmination of my plans/tactics over spring. I think it was probably right to stay comfortable in Paris to dip below 3:10 (given previous pb was 3:27!). But this time I wanted to really go for the 3 hours, despite the IT band injury and the fact that the South Cheshire 20 had been my only long run since Paris seven weeks ago. Conditions were poor, with a strong headwind right up to the turn at 18 miles. Doing the course last year helped, and I ran a good tactical race, quite cautious and controlled but never really slackening the pace. Went through 10k in 40m, half in 1:27, then a rough patch at 21m, when I finally got the tailwind. But kept concentration and kept the pace up, albeit painfully, over the last three miles to get comfortably under the barrier. Another great weekend in Edinburgh, beautiful weather, so we all went up Arthur's Seat next day - then drove to the Hetheringtons near Perth where we walked up Abernethy Glen in delightful evening sunshine. Desperate to recover now in time for the 1000m race.

Chester half marathon, Trevor climbs

Not sure whether my decision to run the Chester half (for the fifth time) on Sunday was wise - with Edinburgh, my big target, next Sunday. But it was an excellent confidence boost (assuming I recover in time). Took it relatively easy, and felt very strong from Pulford back to the finish, passing around 15 good club runners to finish in 30th place (from around 2000) in 1:22:30. Bigger crowds now for this race, nice atmosphere, good cool conditions. Bodes well for the marathon, felt nicely sustainable at the pace, with each mile quicker than the previous. Felt fine afterwards - indeed had a short climbing session with Rich at Trevor. Led Hot Dog (4), then the wall to its left (VS). Then led the newish route Crocs (f5+) up a tricky but short steep wall with some loose rock, then seconded Alligator's Crawl (HVS 5a) up the obvious crack on the right. Retired soon afterwards for a well deserved pint in The Sun. Cycled to work on Monday, to loosen the legs.

Atlantic Slab, Filiast

A tremendous outing yesterday on a perfect May day, climbing in the wonderful Cwm Grianog on the Filiast slabs. I've wanted to visit this crag for years and here was the perfect opportunity. Walked into the cwm with Alwyn, and began the long slog up to the base of the Atlantic Slab ridge, a 1000ft Mod/Diff/Gr 3, one of the longest routes in Wales and a fantastic outing with a real Alpine flavour. Took us about two hours, alternating leads efficiently, running out full 50m+ rope lengths every time for six long pitches. Position wonderful throughout, deep blue skies, warm sunshine and crystal clear views over Tryfan and the Carneddau. We kept to the crest throughout, moving left over the main slab (Central Route) towards the end. The climbing is very easy, but sustained at the standard with very few broken sections and some nice slabs. The route finishes right on the summit of Carnedd y Filiast. We then descended to the cwm, popping out - more by luck than judgment - beneath Tree Slab, a venue of which I knew nothing but which looked great. Alwyn led the obvious key line up the central crack - White Lightning (S). This is a real hidden gem, a superb straight crack, lined with quartz leading to a small ledge, then an overlap and a delicate slab with perfect friction to the top. The crack to the left (right of the VD Friction) appeared to be a new route (!) so I led it. Nice climbing to another quartz lined crack, but unsurprisingly also a bit more vegetation, passing two trees to a ledge. Belayed here, then Alwyn led up the finishing arete of Friction (VD). Called the route Crystalline Crack (HVD) but, assuming the crag has at least been visited since the 1993 guidebook, I think it very likely such an obvious, simple route has been done before. A splendid little crag, isolated, perfect rock.

South Cheshire 20 mile race

Decided at the last minute to enter the South Cheshire 20 mile race this morning. Felt it would be the ideal test for my knee and a good way to assess Edinburgh chances. Went very well, much more optimistic now. The knee held out, and I finished comfortably in 2:25. Didn't really push it at all, very relaxed until 2 miles from the end when a marshall told me I was 16th. So I started to run faster and satisfyingly passed three runners towards the end to finish 13th from 80. The course was an ideal test, hilly and hot: a really good underrated race that I may do again (and race). I'd also felt OK on the Buckley 5k route last Thursday (18:24) and on the Collie Moel Famau run Friday night - a few more days of stretching and I should be fairly well placed to conquer the injury. Got very close to 50 miles of running this week.

Craig Aderyn/Craig Ddu climbs

A splendid opportunistic evening's climbing yesterday with Alwyn: the beautiful warm May weather continues. We parked at Pen y Pass and headed off to Craig Aderyn, the perfect 60m high slab I've had my eye on for many years. Led the first pitch of Arete Climb, an easy Diff in a very nice position following the right arete. Good 100ft pitch, a nice way to reacquaint myself with 'proper' climbing. Alwyn led to the top. Played around on Subsidiary Slab, then Alwyn led the classic Jacob's Ladder/Via Media combination up the main slab. One of the finest Severe pitches in Wales, really excellent climbing up a series of cracks and quartz holds: delicate and absorbing. We then headed down to Craig Ddu, where I led the unexpectedly good first pitch of Rib and Slab (VD). Easy, but again absorbing and in a really nice position, a good sharp rib with lovely positive holds. Alwyn led the slightly disappointing long slab pitch: very easy but again in a nice position. On the Tuesday, tried to get a long run in (to Holt and back). Bit of a disaster - dehydrated, knee problems.

Y Garn fell race, Tarw MTB trail

A very average performance in Y Garn fell race on Saturday. Humid conditions, with a little mist covering the summit as we approached from Rhyd Ddu. It's an unrelenting, continuously steep 1,500ft climb from the village. Got to the cairn in 24 mins from the village, and kept my place reasonably well on the steep but grassy descent (11 mins from summit to road). Finished in 35:25 for 30th place from 93. The race was a counter in the Welsh and North Wales champs, so a very strong field. Poured down immediately after, so Simon and I had to abandon plans for a 1000m reccie. Next day, myself and Rich headed off to Coed y Brenin in beautiful spring weather (at last), to do the Tarw mountain bike circuit. Loosely based on the old Red Bull, which I did 7 years ago. But I found the Tarw disappointing, technical and tediously rocky throughout - very few smooth descents but physically relatively easy (21k).

Border League, Cader scramble and ridge run, Tarren hills run

A pleasing performance, a return to some kind of form at last, in Wednesday night's final border league fixture: a 4 mile race in Deeside. Wanted to maintain my 9th position in the league, and managed it with a time of 23:30 for 50th place from the usual very strong final fixture field of 275. Very satisfied with a top 10 finish, maintaining 9th place overall with a final score of 249: pleasingly consistent over the season, with six top 50 finishes. Buckley finished 2nd in division 1. Next day, went to Aberystwyth for a conference. Started at 6am, so was able to squeeze an outing in on the way. Parked at Minffordd and ran up to Cwm Cae in low cloud. Located the Tapia Llwydion scramble/climb, and romped up the nice 200ft slab in rock boots (bit of diff at the start, then grade II scrambling), easy but damp, good fun. A couple of steeper towers led to broken ground and then the plateau in thick mist. Ran along the ridge to Mynydd Moel, then the continuation ridge (very pleasant, not done before) to emerge from the cloud below the summit of Gau Graig - interesting views to Waun Oer. Then ran down the very steep ridge back to the bridleway, cutting my thumb and twisting my ankle. Back to Minffordd in 2 hours, washed in the toilets and got to Aber before the conference had started! Next day, left the conference at 5pm and arrived Abergynolwyn 5.45pm. More new territory for me, up Nant Gwernol to Foel Fawr, then along the forest tracks - nicely runnable - to the gully leading steeply to the NW ridge of Tarren Hendre. Great remote feeling hills, especially this time of night. Lovely springlike evening, cuckoos calling, as I ran along the wonderful ridge leading over Pant Gwyn to Foel y Geifr. Exhilerating stuff, with magnificent views to the Dyfi valley right, and Cader Idris left. Over Foel y Geifr to a path through some trees to a steep climb up Tarren y Gesail. The sun illuminated Bardsey, as well as a narrow band of sea. Good running down to Bryn Eglwys quarry and back to Abergynolwyn in 2:30 hrs (quite a tough 10 mile round).

Carneddau scramble, Wrexham 10 mile race

An active weekend, but marred by the reappearance of my knee problem. Managed a quick trip to Snowdonia with Rich in poor weather: rain sweeping down Ogwen as we arrived. So we abandoned plans for a roped scramble, and instead headed up into Cwm Lloer. But the weather began to clear slightly as we entered the cwm, so we had a bash at the obscure Broad Gully Ridge (I/II). Moved through the cwm to the base of Broad Gully (climbed with Tim in perfect winter conditions in 1993!). Up this to just below the 'pitch', then a wet traverse left on a sloping gangway to a flake. Above, the rock was hopelessly greasy so we traversed further left and tried a horribly wet and vegetated gully which led to a very narrow cleft. This was fortunately just wide enough to pull out of, and led to an easy couloir and some intermittent scrambling on the ridge to join the normal east ridge at the top of the gully. Then over Pen yr Olau Wen and along with ridge to Carnedd Dafydd in low cloud, rain and strong winds: unpleasant. Took a bearing and scurried back to Ffynnon Lloer and the car. Next day, did the Wrexham 10 mile road race (North Wales championships), my 100th official race. Was going very well until 7 miles (exact 6 min 10 secs pace) but then blew up catastrophically, no idea why. Limped home in just over 64 minutes, very disappointing. Warmed down to take the mileage up to 14 for the day. But then felt my knee problems come back on a 6 miler the next day. Now I'm worried again...

Eglwyseg climbs, running improves

A relatively promising week for running, although still feeling tired. Knee has improved considerably. Managed an average intervals session on Tuesday and felt quite good on my 10k this morning. Last night, paid another visit to Trevor Rocks with Dale, again in perfect climbing conditions of beautiful spring sunshine. Led Catch the Pigeon, a rather good, long 4+ over two overlaps with a tricky crux right at the top. Then seconded Ant Hill Mob (5) and made a hash of Prof Pat Pending (6a+) to its left. Bit more daylight now, so moved down to the new Wings area (as last week) to lead Merlin Magic, a long and easy 4 up loose jugs. Then, in fading light, one of the new very loose routes to the right.

Knee improves, new rock climb

After a trip to the physio last Wednesday, I was reassured about my knee. Managed six miles on the Thursday, and the Colomendy run up Moel Famau on Friday with no real problems beyond a slight niggle. A short jog on Saturday then a pleasing 12 miler yesterday - around Llay, Rossett and Burton - suggest I should be OK. Also went to the crag I've discovered on Hope Mountain and shunted the most obvious line, which climbs the open corner towards the right of the crag. Not bad at all, certainly a valid route, maybe 35ft high, steep and juggy on a sort of honeycombed sandstone. All rather dirty, dusty and vegetated - but again considering this is almost certainly the first ascent, not too bad. The route, which I've called Beyond Hope (the pun was too obvious to avoid) goes at around Severe, or a tad harder. Steep jugs and bridging gain an uncomfortable ledge, then an awkward bulge gains a big hold on the right wall (in which there is a convenient crack), with bridging to finish. Good belays on top too.

New climbs at Eglwyseg

Managed to get a few routes done yesterday evening in beautiful crisp, clear sunshine. Went to the newly developed area of Trevor with Dale Berry: outside the bird ban left of Fudd Walls. Possibly the largest crag in the area, so longish routes. We began with a lead of Raptor Rap (f4+), a nondescript route on flat holds. Then Sgrech yr Hebog (f5+), up a shallow groove line. Both appropriately named (a peregrine circled just above our heads throughout this climb). Scratching the surface (f5) was probably the best route, another lead: a coherent line up the steep central groove then the overlap to a nice slab. Finished with Co-ed in the Coed (f5) on the far left: an awkward wall leads to another slab. Not exactly classic climbing, but more routes here are always welcome. Lovely spot in the evening, the sun gradually dropping behind velvet hills.

Llanberis slate climbs

An efficient climbing trip yesterday evening. Polished off all nine of the new bolted routes at Dali's Hole on the slate above Dinorwic in less than 2.5 hours with Alwyn. Only my second ever day on the slate (first was in 1993 I think!). Good, slabby routes - quite technical in places. Kicked off with a lead of Tolerance, an easy f5. Then led Mon Amie, f5+. Small holds take some getting used to, but this style of delicate climbing always was easier for me (and everybody else!). Then did the two very simple f4's - Kinder Sport and Emerald Dyke. Then two good routes up the full height of the main face, both with good moves and interesting climbing. La Grandpere (f5c), possibly overgraded, and the better Pour Tout le Monde (f5c). Alwyn led Le Grandmere (f5a), rather short. Finished by upping the grade to take in Le Petit Pois (f6a+), a tiny one-move wonder with a technical start. Then led La Gendre (f6a+) - the best climb here, taking the grooves on the left edge of the face by way of some very interesting moves. Great stuff. Ran up Moel Famau from Colomendy with Neil on Friday night, but then detected the first signs of the dreaded ITBS (lateral knee pain) on a Saturday morning run. Came back again during a nine-miler on Sunday, around Llay and Burton. Will try intervals tonight, but am very worried this could put me out of running action for a bit.

Eglwyseg climbing

Managed to get a few climbs in on Wednesday evening. Just about enough light for four climbs between 6.30 and 8ish, with Dale Berry. Led the easy groove of SMD on the Suspect Walls at Trevor - just one move at the start, then easy plodding. Seconded the arete of Clue, So - again. Then led Disappearing Act (5+), a good strong line with nice climbing, up the obvious corner left of Clue, So. Nicely up the groove, then good positive holds over the small roof to a slabby finish. Very little arm strength! Finished seconding Forensic Science as the sun disappeared and things got rather chilly. Good to get out on the rock again. Had a 3 mile jog along the panorama prior to this. Legs feel fine after the marathon, so time to up the mileage again.

Paris marathon

A pleasing performance in the Paris marathon on Sunday - a tremendous event, great support and surroundings, particularly the mass start on the Champs Elysses. Finished in 3:09:22, a big PB and a good platform to go all out for sub-3 at Edinburgh in late May. Ran a very comfortable race, even achieving the fabled negative split (ran the second half about 2 seconds quicker than first half!), in ideal cool conditions. Probably stayed too far within comfort zone, didn't really suffer until last 3 or 4k, so picked up hundreds of places over final 15k. Will push much harder in Edinburgh - which will be my 10th marathon. Met Dave and his Penny Lane pals after the race, then had a long walk round the city, including a Louvre visit, with m and d. A flight cancellation meant I had to go back via Glasgow, 26 hours later than planned. Tiring.

Chester Spring 5 race

What was intended as a final sharpener/confidence boost before the marathon had exactly the opposite effect last night. Just couldn't get going in this evening 5 mile race, and limped home in 30:30. No idea what the problem was. Will have a short trot today, then rest up until Paris.

Tapering weekend

A quiet weekend, winding down now before the Paris marathon next Sunday. Joined the Colomendy run up Moel Famau on Friday. Very pleasant, if a little muddy after all the rain. Chased down by heavy showers on the descent. Followed up with a brisk 12 miler on the Sunday: from HK to Shordley, Llay, Rossett, Pulford, Dodleston and back.

Penmachno loop two

Took advantage of a weather window to head off for an early morning MTB sprint around the new loop two at Penmachno. We'd intended to do this last month, but were forced by the weather into another lap of loop one. Yesterday was bright and occasionally sunny. The new loop doesn't offer great riding, but has a real XC feel and gives a far better sense of 'place'. It goes north high above the Machno valley, to birch woods above Fairy Glen, then skirts the Lledr and up to a plateau with superb views over central Snowdonia. Still a bit of snow left. Then a long section of pedally singletrack leads back to rejoin loop one before the rocky section at Rowen. About 31km, a little under 2:50 for the circuit. Back home by midday.