Saturday, April 06, 2019

Coledale Horseshoe fell race

Race: Coledale Horseshoe fell race (14k/3200ft/AM)
Peaks: Grisedale Pike, Crag Hill/Eel Crag, Sail, Barrow
Time/Position: 1.44.05 (128th from 313)
It is rather strange how every time I go up to the Lakes for a Medium distance classic horseshoe, the weather is absolutely perfect; but every time I go for a Long, it is dire. This was Medium, so just like Kentmere, Grisedale, Anniversary Waltz, the weather was glorious: a wonderful spring day, with snow on the tops and an invigorating clarity to the air. The North Lakes is just a bit too far for a day trip, but this is what we did: a long drive to Braithwaite. This was just for training and fun, getting close to the allotted 10,000ft climbing for the week, and I took photos all the way round. From Braithwaite lodge, the race pelts down to the village before beginning the brutal and sustained climb up Grisedale Pike. This eases half way up before building to a climax up the final pyramid - the path can be seen for miles around and heads up scree and open rock (and, today, some deep snow patches). I did the Rab mountain marathon in this area a few years ago, but missed the summit of the Pike when bagging various checkpoints, meaning this was a first for me (strange, as it is one of the most notable peaks in the Lakes, with the ascent route obvious from miles around). At the top, I took a few pictures before enjoying the superb descent down snow to the contouring path round, and below, the side of Hopegill Head to the broad pass of Coledale Hause. From here, the climb up Crag Hill (Eel Crag) looks desperately steep but was rather enjoyable, on a mixture of slush, shale and solid rock with some light scrambling. Glorious running over Crag Hill over big snow patches to the rocky, steep and awkward descent along the nice ridge to Sail. I've done this section a few times over the years, first during fresher's week in 1988 when we stayed in Newlands! Another wonderful descent, taking the diagonal path through the valley between Outerside and Causey Pike towards the final climb up Barrow. The grassy final descent back to Braithwaite Lodge seemed familiar from the Rab, but I think that went to Stair instead. Nice food lying down in the sunshine at the finish, before a quick pint in Threlkeld before the drive home.

Monday, April 01, 2019

Snowdon scramble

Peaks: Crib Goch, Garnedd Ugain, Yr Wyddfa
Area: Snowdon, Eryri
A connoisseur's route up Snowdon (AKA my 'alternative horseshoe') from the Dinas Cromlech layby up the tiny path that weaves up below the east flank of Dinas Mot. This gives some decent scrambling up slabby rock, if you look for it, and eventually gains the bottom section of the north ridge of Crib Goch. It all has the distinct advantage of avoiding the crowds and the parking fees. The weather was wonderful (as it had apparently been all last week when I was in Tenerife) but a front was due that afternoon, so it was nice to be able to take advantage by moving quickly first thing in the morning. Perfect views over Cwm Glas and Clogwyn y Person as I climbed, then gained the atmospheric curving north ridge which gains the summit in a great position, looking across to Reade's Route on the main pinnacle. I was last on this ridge in August 2017, descending it on our 3000s run. From the summit, people appear for the first time, despite the day and hour - but the views were perfect, some of the best I've had in dozens of Crib Goch crossings, this is always my favourite time of year. As always, a thoroughly enjoyable crossing, taking the pinnacles direct and running where I could. Over Crib y Ddisgyl by the most direct line - 25 minutes for the entire ridge from Crib Goch (1:20 from the Cromlech car park). I decided to brave the crowds and take in Snowdon, not something I often do outside winter but I thought it would be empty enough on Monday morning. It was packed, so I just touched the trig point and ran flat out to contour the slopes of Garnedd Ugain to the remnants of a cornice at the top of Parsley Fern gully. Here, I relaxed with a snack and took a few luxurious minutes to enjoy the view back across Clogwyn y Person to Crib Goch. I then descended the Cyrn Las ridge - we last came this way after climbing Face Route in incredible conditions at this time of year five or six years ago. It's a nice ridge with a couple of very short scrambling sections - I can remember feeling like we'd 'discovered' it as teenagers in the late 80s, as it didn't feature in any books at that time.

Sunday, March 31, 2019

Hope border league

Race: Hope 5m (Border League race 6)
Time/Position: 30.50 (66th from 327)
The first time in 80 or so league fixtures that I've been able to run to the start from my front door (although I have jogged back from a few). A new course, measured five miles, around roads I know well (but do not generally run on, as they are a bit too busy for me). After a delayed start from Rhos Estyn lane outside Hope, we headed downhill towards Kinnerton, leaving the main road for Bramley Lane then back via the sharp climb up Barrack's Lane. Inevitably, my three seven hour days in the mountains of Tenerife began to bite on the climb, feeling very tired, but I tried to stick with a small group and it went reasonably well by the embarrassing standards of this season - although I was passed by 4 or 5 in the last few metres. A nice relaxing warm-down jog along Sandy Lane in warm spring sunshine, back to my front door.

Friday, March 29, 2019

Pico la Mesa

Peak: Pico de la Mesa (1321m)
Area: Santiago del Teide, Tenerife
The final part of today's triptych, all made up on the hoof as I spied interesting peaks from other mountains - this part of Tenerife must be unique in that respect. From El Molledo, I initially drove over the winding road to Masca, spectacular valleys above the Atlantic, rolling mist, difficult driving. I couldn't find the ridge paths I planned to take, so instead parked comfortably in Santiago and eventually found the path I hoped would lead to Pico la Mesa, a shapely peak with a sharp summit that I'd seen from Guama first thing - the most notable feature of the landscape alongside Risco Blanco. The path led alongside the road to turn left up the obvious side valley cloaked in laurel and pine forest. This was lovely, although I was starting to tire the endemic flora and birdlife (endemic blue tit, endemic chiffchaff, canary) kept me going. I got to the pass (degollada de la mesa) quickly, and then took the much smaller side path along the enjoyable ridge. This curved up through more endemic flora, wonderful throughout, to gain the short rocky ridge leading to the small summit of Pico de la Mesa. This occupies a stunning position directly above Masca and the western valleys: the ground drops away. Sadly, it was misty, although I got a few brief and spectacular clearances, revealing Masca for a few seconds, as well as the Atlantic and the Cabezada ridge. A great way to finish, but that was enough - so I ran flat out all the way to Santiago. Despite the three separate outings, I was still back at the ideal time for lunch, 1pm, and dined on papas arrugadas, mojo, pan con chorizo, and wreckfish with onions and olives. Then there was just time to drive down to sea level for a view of the 800m sea cliffs of Los Gigantes before my evening flight home.

Risco Blanco

Peaks: Risco (Roque) Blanco/Chimayachi (935m)
Area: El Molledo, Tenerife
Consulting my map after breakfast, I noticed that a path led towards Roque Blanco from El Molledo, a hamlet further up the valley. Roque Blanco, also called Risco Blanco or Chimayachi, was such an eye-catching peak that I really wanted to do it after seeing it from Guama this morning. However, it was also obviously sheer to the south, climbing territory, and not feasible solo. As I drove up the valley, however, I kept looking across and saw obvious weaknesses further north. I parked in El Molledo, the weather clearing beautifully, and set off through the village to the superbly runnable contouring path heading west below Montana Ijada and around a couple of lengthy spurs to the more isolated valley that drops down to the sea very steeply, typical of the spectacular terrain of this part of Western Tenerife. Finally, I got a view of the otherwise hidden Risco Blanco, and although still steep and impressive from this northern side, a reasonable route up seemed very likely as the terrain looked like slabby rock interspersed with vegetation: a classic volcanic shape. The path reaches Casa Quemada, a goat farm, then drops down a well-defined ridge to the base of Risco Blanco. From here, I went straight for a line of weakness up a steep open groove. This gave good scrambling, around grade II, and I then moved out right to the excellent slabby ridge (north-west) which marks the transition between the steep and slabby side of the mountain. I stuck to the rock and it gave a great little route to the summit, which takes the form of a short, narrow ridge in a predictably spectacular position. To the south and west, sheer drops to those wonderful steep, lush valleys plunging down to the Atlantic 1000 metres below, framed by this morning's peaks, particularly Guama, not far away across the valley. Further over, the Cabezada ridge that towers over the famous village of Masca. And inland, my next objective, Pico la Mesa. The sun was still shining, and it all felt like a tremendous bonus, some recompense for the cancellation on Wednesday. To my mild disappointment, I found a tiny path which weaved in and out of the crags and picked an easier, less steep, route down to the base of the roque. From here, I ran all the way back to El Molledo along the traverse path trying to save a little energy for part three of the day.

Tamaimo peaks

Peaks: Montana Guama (881m), Pico la Vera (789m)
Area: Tamaimo, Tenerife
My guesthouse in Tamaimo had a roof terrace, from where the village's situation could be properly appreciated: 600 metres directly above the Atlantic in a corridor of steep-sided mountains, the most notable and closest of which was Guama, which rose directly above. So before breakfast, I joined the well-marked path that weaves from the village up the hillside to the north-south ridge above, which is marked by a large cross, Cruz des los Misioneros. This didn't take long at all, running the whole way, although I was feeling the pace after the past two days. Turning south, a smaller path with some mild scrambling continued up the ridge to the summit of Montana Guama (28m), in a great position above the sea and village. It was all a bit grey and cloudy, sadly, but inland my eye was caught by two fine peaks: the first turned out to be Roque Blanco - a fabulous orange spire from this angle, and the second was Pico la Mesa, a much higher peak rising inland. I didn't know anything about either, but changed my plans to try to get up them both. First, though, I ran back to the cross and tried to traverse the ridge to Pico la Vera and Roque del Paso. I must have missed the small path so tried to make my way along the crest. There was no path, and rather too much vegetation - including cacti with painful needles - which was a shame as there was some good scrambling and it was narrow in places. I continued to the first rise of the ridge, probably Pico la Vera, then went back to the col and ran flat out down to my lodgings for some breakfast and a shower. It was still early, so there was plenty of time left for further exploration before my evening flight.

Thursday, March 28, 2019

Guajara/Viejo

Peaks: Alto de Guajara (2717m), Unnamed Peak (2464m), Pico Viejo/Mancho Ruana Sur (3008m)
Area: Teide, Tenerife
An unusual and gruelling double climb from the Parador at Roques de Garcia. This was not the plan, but the conditions meant I had to adapt - and it was actually a much harder day, and therefore better training, than if I had started at the hut. Instead, I left Vilaflor at first light and drove up to a deserted Teide in incredible conditions - a hard frost last night, snow higher up, low sun lighting ice crystals on the lava flows. The entire valley was orange, and the sun rose over the shoulder of Guajara, my initial target. I parked at the Parador, deserted at this hour, and trotted over to the path that leads steeply up to the obvious col that gives access to the upper slopes. It traversed through snow (which was icy, vindicating yesterday's decision) below a line of crags, then gained the pass (Degollada de Ucanca) with views down the contrasting, fairly green, Ucanca valley, Guajara is well defended by crags on almost all sides, but a broad couloir through the southern cliffs was clearly the onward route. The path weaved up to it, keeping close to the walls as it moves left into the couloir. The angle then eases as the broad plateau is gained - it is an unusual hill with a huge summit area but crags on all sides, typical of a volcanic peak and very prominent in the landscape, in some ways more impressive than Teide from the valley bottom (and the highest mountain on the island outwith the hulking mound of Teide). The view was genuinely stunning: one of the best views I have ever had anywhere. A circle of white cloud was draped around the mid-slopes of Teide, the clarity of light was perfect, with every detail highlighted. Two Polish walkers lent the view some scale, and we swapped photo duties. To the west, cloud was boiling over the Sombrerito de Chasna and the slopes of Vilaflor. I descended back to the Degollada, then nipped up the obvious unnamed peak (pt 2464m on the map) lying along the ridge to the west of the pass. This gave a nice little scramble to a small summit, obvious from the Parador, with more great views: a tiny cairn on top as well as a vague semblance of a path through the rocky summit suggested the occasional other person comes this way! One option now was to continue to the Sombrerito, which might have been best, but instead I ran down to the Parador for a coffee cortado and pastry. Refuelled, I opted for a mammoth extension, jogging past the tourists on the easterly Roques de Garcia path (these are impressive spires of rock, foregrounding a million Teide photos, and rammed with tourists). I instantly left all tourists behind as soon as I joined the path through the lava flows to Pico Viejo, which is a vague lump on the 'ridge' that runs west from Teide. It was an opportunity to get up high again, although the weather was worsening - with a cold wind - and the route is a dreadful extended slog with little to recommend it. I just ploughed upwards, considering it good training, and entered the clag at 2500m. It weaves through old lava flows but generally heads upwards, although such was the nature of the clag and the vague nature of the 'peak' that it was hard to tell where I was. At the spot marked Mancha Ruana Sur on the map, a 3008m extrusion, I turned round and jogged all the way down just as another heavy snow storm blew up. This turned to sleety rain lower down, and I took the westerly path round Roques de Garcia which descends to the impressive 'Catedral', a huge spire of rock, then climbs back to a tourist peak above the car park. This finished me off, and I headed to the car for a tricky drive through very thick mist which lasted for 35k through Chio to my next guesthouse in Tamaimo, where it finally cleared. I saw virtually nothing for the whole way, which was a shame.

Wednesday, March 27, 2019

Teide blizzard

Peaks: Montana Blanca (2758m)
Area: Teide, Tenerife
After a great morning in the hills, part one of the intricate plan completed, things took a turn for the worse as I ate my Canarian stew in Vilaflor. I received a text from the Altavista hut saying it was closed, as were the paths, and the cable car, due to snow and ice on Teide. A real blow, as this was the main point of the trip. I thought I would try to walk up anyway, although rather tired after the morning, as the text implied the dorms would be open. So I headed up through the pine forests into the extraordinary volcanic landscape of Teide for the first time. The weather improved a tad as I got higher, intermittent sun, high cloud on the peaks, around 4C as I left the car (tricky to park) and began to walk up Montana Blanca under leaden skies with bag packed for the two day expedition via the hut. With a good distance in my legs already, this was a tad tiring, but I jogged most of the easy-angled slopes up the lunar landscape of the utterly bare Blanca slopes - reminded me of the Laugavegur in Iceland. Soon, an ominous steady drizzle began, and this gave way to sleet as I climbed. The odd snow drift appeared. Then, above some long zigzags, the sleet changed to snow - which started to come down very heavily under rapidly darkening skies. At Montana Blanca (just a slight rise on the slopes of Teide), the path upwards was 'closed' - my trail running shoes were working well on the soft snow, but I didn't have any kahtoolas (I had considered packing them but didn't think I'd get them on as hand luggage). I continued upwards in a worsening blizzard to just below 3000m - but at this point had to make a decision. The snow was coming down hard, the path covering over. I would have been able to make the hut, but I was wet, and the temperature suddenly - and quite noticeably - dropped like a stone. The main issue was the strong possibility of ice tomorrow morning - which would have ruled out Teide and the ridge to Viejo. So, with regret, I descended back to the car in very cold weather, intense wind-chill, and drove all the way back down to Vilaflor with the heater on full blast and icy sleet giving way to rain, then sun, as I descended. I managed to bag a cell-like room for a few quid at the classically Spanish Sombrerito in town, and dined on classic Canarian food: goat stew, mojo and papas arragudas. Some compensation at least.

Arona three peaks

Peaks: Roque del Conde (1003m), Roque Imoche (1113m), Roque de los Brezos (1115m)
Area: Arona, Tenerife, Canary Islands
A very intensive 72 hours on Tenerife, my first ever visit to the Canary Islands. I'd thought about it as a winter venue for a while, but saw Teide poking through the clouds from my flight to West Africa last November, and pledged to visit as soon as possible. This micro-trip cost less than £50 return from Manchester and was perfect distance/climb training, conceived as such. After a night not too far from the airport, in an isolated finca in the hills above Arona, I drove to the hamlet of Vento at first light - 7am. My plans were all quite specific, with only three days at my disposal, so I set off running towards Roque del Conde with a low sun lighting the entire landscape in a truly beautiful honeyed glow - various cacti species lending the scene a characteristic sub-tropical foreground. All three of these peaks are distinctive, quite different from each other, and all notable features of the southern Tenerife landscape (I could see them from my room in the moonlight last night). It was beautifully clear as I took the contouring path on the Atlantic side of Roque del Conde, before it heads straight up through bands of rock to gain the plateau-like summit - reminded me of South Africa at times. A small flock of canaries as I jogged to the true summit, less than an hour from Vento, feeling fresh, a good start. Stunning views, still before 8am, with Teide dominating, clouds starting to boil up from the Atlantic, and a dramatic contrast between the beautiful interior and the overdeveloped urban coast. A small path, initially hard to find, then allowed for a wonderful traverse through the northern crags of Conde to take a direct line towards Roque Imoque. This was stunning, picking a running line through, cacti and local flora everywhere, with some surprisingly good scrambling, to eventually gain the broad col. From here, the little path joins the main GR131 and heads up towards Roque Imoque: this is a very impressive pyramidal peak, the Matterhorn of the Canaries, with only one real weakness. I decided to try to the obvious eastern ridge, ploughing up through the undergrowth to gain some good scrambling. The summit pyramid was too sheer from this side, though, so I dropped off the ridge and traversed round to eventually pick up a small path from the Brezos col. This follows a shallow spur to gain the weakness on the inland face of Imoque - an easy groove, then two short walls (around grade II) gains a small summit, a wonderful spot with tremendous views on all sides. A fine peak. Then, fast running down the spur to a col with a 'threshing circle' (and a berthelot's pipit!) on it, and a very quick ascent of the final peak, Brezos. This throws down a series of excellent-looking crags to the east and is a double-headed peak. Back to the col, now under cloudier skies, then all the way along the GR131 skirting Imoque and turning north below Roque del Conde back to my car in Vento. Then it was way up into the cold and mist at Vilaflor, the highest village on the island, for a lunch of Canarian chickpea stew.

Sunday, March 24, 2019

Heptonstall fell race

Race: Heptonstall fell race, Yorkshire (15m+/3200ft/BL)
Time/Position: 2.26.40 (87th from 279)
After enjoying the Haworth Hobble last year, it was nice to have an excuse to return to this area: terra incognita for us to an extent. This was a supremely enjoyable event taken at training pace - in perfect early spring conditions of light cloud, bright sun and a distinctly chilly wind preventing us from over-heating. The climb from Hebden Bridge up to Heptonstall is ingrained in my memory from the Hobble - so it was nice to start on the cobbled streets of Heptonstall itself! A vicar with air horn made it more memorable, as did the early descent down to Colden Clough, then up and round tracks to the 'navigation section' over the moorland of Black Mires to Standing Stone hill - classic Yorkshire scenery - then down via Ling Hollow to the valley (Hebden Dale). After this, a steep climb on tarmac initially north onto the moors again in sunshine and bracing wind. Just after the high point (Greave Height), I turned my ankle, an old weakness, and had to hobble for a while until it righted itself. This is a familiar routine, however, and by the time we had descended to the remote reservoir at Walshaw Dean, it was OK - and I felt good for the gentle climb up to High Rakes/Wadsworth, particularly after a gel. An unfeasibly long descent (didn't seem commensurate with the climb, which is unusual!), all the way to Walshaw farm, where a long extra loop (which looks illogical on the map but isn't) commences to Hardcastle crags, then round to climb up Turn Hill after drinks at Lady Royd farm, then down to Walshaw again. With no local knowledge at all, I was completely unaware it was the end of loop, thinking we had much further to go. With distance in my legs, I was thoroughly enjoying myself, skipping through delightful woodland. Another climb, then south skirting Crimsworth Dean Beck (the route to Haworth) to New Bridge and the notorious last mile and a bit, up hundreds of steps (the 'staircase to heaven') back up to the village. I only realised we were near the end when I saw Heptonstall high above the valley as we emerged from the woods near Midgeholes.

Wednesday, March 20, 2019

Llanberis slate

Crag: Bus Stop Quarry, Llanberis
Routes: First Stop (f5:sec), Equinox variant (VS 4c:sec), Ferrero Roche (HS:led), Bosch Stop Quarry (f6a+:led*), Bosch Stop Quarry (f6a+:sec), Bish Bash Bosch (f6a:sec)
An unprecedented miscalculation saw us heading all the way over to a misty, dank and drizzly Tremadog while western Snowdonia enjoyed stunning conditions of shifting cloud and dazzling sunshine. To be fair, the forecast was largely to blame, along with the likelihood crags would have been wet after recent rain. Still, we usually pride ourselves on our local knowledge so it was galling: we headed up to Moel y Gest from Porthmadog to find the crag protected by waist-high brambles (theoretically only a 'summer' problem) and the rock sodden and utterly unappealing (a westerly airflow had led to this dank sea mist rolling in). So after wasting several hours, we headed back west in frustrated mood, instantly emerging from the clag and damp at Penygroes. Time was running out, so we headed to Deiniolen and Bus Stop Quarry, intent on salvaging a shrivelled husk from the day (really, we should have been on the east face of Tryfan, or similar). After a warm-up, Vic and Steve led the old trade route Equinox, now rather polished, by the direct variations, and I led the unpleasantly loose groove of Ferrero Roche. We finished with the two 6a+ routes higher up: the one on the right has a very technical crux, which I failed on a couple of years ago. It involves a high clip, then a blind move to a vague toe hold, a crimp, then a footless lunge to an obvious hold. It is much harder than it looks. I grabbed at the clip when leading, then did it again clean with rope above. The companion 6a+ line to its left is a tad more positive and certainly easier.

Sunday, March 17, 2019

Stretton Hills fell race

Race: Stretton Hills fell race (9.8k/2100ft)
Time/Position: 1.00.47 (188th from 339)
If anything, English championship fell races are even more competitive than the British equivalents. With no speed at all, I was always likely to be well down the field - but the motive was just to add some more climbing to a decent week of training. I'd never done the race before (the precise route varies, and it tends to be used as a championship race) - it encompasses all the hard parts of the Long Mynd Valleys race, which I last did in the snow in 2009, maximising all the climbing on these steep little hills. It also encompassed an element of route choice, and in this sense echoed last month's Clwydian Sheeptracks. I set off with Vic and Steve from Church Stretton, up the start of the Burway (done on a bike - horrible), then off towards Yearlet. I went right, they went left. My route headed straight up the front, getting me to the top in 17 minutes from town - but was definitely slower. I caught Steve on the path over towards Haddon Hill then took a good line lower down to drop directly in to Carding Mill valley - a very steep descent. I made up a few places, then quite enjoyed the brutal climb all the way back up the top of Haddon Hill. Then a long contouring finale above and around Long Batch. I finally caught Vic, and enjoyed the extensive views over Caer Caradog and the Wrekin. Great running along the escarpment above Long Batch (although the best route by far was to drop into the valley). Instead, I dropped down awkward terrain to Jonathan's Rock and the final checkpoint, only to find Vic and numerous other runners had nipped in front by taking the better route through the valley!

Friday, March 15, 2019

Clwydian long run

An attempt to increase the volume of climbing in advance of the Fellsman with a longish route attempting to maximise all local hills. From the Collie, I headed over the Beast up Bryn Alyn, then over towards Eryrys, emerging on the bridleway below the mast. A loop round the village, then back down the bridleway towards the Ruthin road. Up to the top of Bryn Alyn again, joining the Beast for a second time (via a newly discovered path!), then to Maeshafn via the undulating Big Covert path. Up to the top of Moel Findeg, then past the crag to Gwernymynydd and the Collie, where I did the usual route up Moel Famau via the Leet. Tired on the climb, although I perked up a tad for the descent.

Sunday, March 03, 2019

Birkenhead border league

Race: Birkenhead Park 5.5m (Border League race 5)
Time/Position: 33.19 (76th from 344)
A wet day in Birkenhead for the usual four lap border league route round the park, and another predictable 'slowest ever time' for a race I have done many times (at least 7 or 8). In previous years, I've always run just over 31 minutes and finished in the top 20. Today: two minutes and 60 places down: my 72nd BL race. Slightly perversely, despite the laps I always enjoy this fixture and did so again today in the rain - and lunch in Liverpool was a nice way to recover.

Wednesday, February 27, 2019

Maeshafn climbing

Crag: Maeshafn
Routes: Rambler (S:sec), The Minstrel (E1 5b:sec), Royal Plume (E2:sec*)
The final day of a record-breaking spell of warm winter weather. Stuck in the office all week so took advantage of two free hours to indulge in a short training session at Maeshafn. Steve led Rambler, as he learns to place gear, then we trained on the two steep cracklines to the right, including the crag classic of The Minstrel.

Sunday, February 24, 2019

Clwydian Sheeptracks

Race: Clwydian Sheeptracks fell race (27k/AL)
Time/Position: 3.33 (40th from 129)
The incredible weather continues, which both helped and hindered this event, hovering somewhere between mountain marathon and long fell race in tone. It is a great concept: revealing the checkpoints in advance and allowing competitors to reccie the best lines at leisure. One small problem: unlike most of my fellow local runners, for various reasons I hadn't reccied it (apart from three of them). Quite rightly, I lost time as a result in numerous obscure parts of the Clwydians, even though I always knew broadly where I was! As the race name suggests, the fastest lines took trods and hidden sheeptracks - most of which required some prior knowledge, few of which were normal paths. My legs felt a bit tired throughout, but I went reasonably well initially - from Cilcain over Moel Drws y Coed and the shoulder of Moel Arthur down to checkpoints above Nannerch. It was hot, absurdly so for the time of year, and I adopted my normal approach to the weight/water trade-off. This is always risky, and this time I lost: dehydrated towards the end and not taking on food. On the way back from Pen y Cloddiau, I took the slower direct route over Arthur, then got the next two checkpoints bang on before making a stupid decision to drop down to the Vale of Clwyd side for CP13, all the way up Nant y Ne and then the debilitating direct climb reversing my own Hotfoot race route! This finished me off, and I made another bad route choice round the back of Foel Fenlli before limping home dehydrated. Only two weeks after Brecon-Cardiff, so perhaps I was paying a bit for that towards the end.

Thursday, February 21, 2019

Castle Inn climbing

Crag: Castle Inn Quarry
Routes: Line One (f4c:led), Smartie (f5c:sec), Appenzeller (f5c:led), Line Two (f5c:led), Rosecomb (f6a:led), School Mam (f6a:led), Cakewalk Direct (f6c:sec), School Mam Original (f6b:sec)
An unusually early start to the Welsh rock climbing year, with warm temperatures and plenty of sunshine. Worrying from a planetary perspective, but it seemed wise to take advantage with an opening salvo at a venue I've been visiting for nearly 30 years. Despite the temperatures, there was a strong wind blowing, and we kicked off with a couple of newly bolted routes at the sheltered far right of the crag (I think I've done every route here - with a couple of hard exceptions). These were new, however: an easy line up the crumbly right-hand arete, then the two delicate 5c's that I'd done before. Then came Line Two, another similar 5c, and a slightly harder line (tricky start) on the left that is given 6a. These are all short routes, though, so after a bite we headed across to the windy main face where I led old favourite School Mam which is probably f5 by the most logical line up the cracks. We then upped the grade considerably, for training purposes, with rope above. Cakewalk Direct has always been one of the harder routes at the crag, big numbers for February, but to my surprise I managed to despatch it cleanly (although I have done it before). It has some technical moves on tiny edges and flakes to gain the overlap: crux moves over this, very powerful initially with an awkward side-pull, gain the chain. After the slightly easier line to the left (still technical) this felt like a good start to the year.

Monday, February 18, 2019

Purple Mountain Traverse

Peaks: Purple Mountain (832m), Tomies South (757m), Shehy Mountain (762m), Tomies (735m)
Area: Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Kerry, Ireland
This miniature massif probably counts as the most notable feature of the Killarney skyline, rising above the lake and occasionally living up to its name when the light is right. We could see it from our hotel on the Muckross road and it gave a delightful outing, the perfect 'airport day'. After another full Irish breakfast, we drove the short distance to Kate Kearney's Cottage and set off in yet another heavy shower along the narrow road which leads up to the Gap of Dunloe. This is famously picturesque, and did not disappoint. It was quiet, and we thoroughly enjoyed the flat walking up to Coosaun Lough, then the Black Lake, Cushvally and Auger lakes as the road climbs through the ever narrowing valley. Towards the top of the hairpins, the pass takes on a Llanberis feel - black crags and a distinctive Celtic atmosphere. I felt entirely at home, just like Dingle yesterday (although in the height of summer, I imagine this road feels very different, a tourist hotspot). Above lies the Head of Gap, and a small path climbs steeply up towards Purple Mountain itself (it must be at least 8k to this point from the cottage, a long walk-in). The weather had cleared by now, and we had some of the best views of the trip as the cloud lifted from the Black Valley and eventually Cnoc na Peiste and the main Reeks ridge. Stunning scenery on all sides, and even the novelty of sunshine. After skirting little Glas Lough, however, it started to rain again - and this turned to heavy sleet as we gained the ridge with views over the other side to the Upper Lake and Mangerton. The path weaves around to gain boulders leading to the summit of Purple Mountain, perfectly timed as the weather cleared again. These were the first real summit views of the trip, and they were worth the wait, as Purple Mountain occupies a perfect position between the Reeks and Black Valley on one side, the green valleys of Kerry to the north, and the Killarney Lakes directly below. Wispy shower clouds were lit by the sun as they tracked slowly across Ladies View on the Ring of Kerry. The views of Lough Leane and Ross Castle got even better as we walked over the subsidiary peaks of Tomies South and then out on a limb to Shehy Mountain, which is poised directly above Killarney and Lough Leane. A very enjoyable ridge walk which was worth savouring, so we took our time to contour round to the short final climb up Tomies. Here, we just sat for a while, watching the ever changing play of light on the lakes and Reeks ridge, now covered in light snow. Shower clouds and rainbows tracked across the valley bottom. There was still a fair way to go back to the cottage, so we jogged down the steep slopes of Tomies Rock to gain the twisting path back to the car. Then, after a quick shower, it was back to the airport via Macroom and a swordfish supper in Cork.

Sunday, February 17, 2019

Mount Brandon

Peaks: Brandon (952m)
Area: Dingle, Kerry, Ireland
One of the finest mountains in the British Isles, Brandon rises directly out of the Atlantic at the end of the wild Dingle peninsula. I've wanted to come here for years, but ran out of time (and weather) on our last visit to Kerry in 1999. This morning, we drove from Killarney to Tralee then along the coast of Dingle to the Gaeltacht and finally Cloghane in constantly changing weather under huge skies. This remained the day's theme, although we had glimpses of the upper ridge as the mists shifted in and out, particularly early on, as we set off from the small Faha car park above the sea. Hail, sleet and rain swept in for the initial contouring slopes to gain the spectacular 'paternoster' lake valley which marks the entry into the wild upper reaches of the mountain. Behind, wonderful ever-changing light as showers swept over the Slieve Mish range from the Atlantic. As we got higher, the path kinks towards the upper cwm, a superb hanging valley, and a spectacular hailstorm swept down - backlit by the sun over the two lower lakes of Lough na Lice and Lough Cruttia. The terrain changes at this point, and the route reminded us of the Pyg track in the sense that it picks through moraines and rivulets before climbing the headwall, which looks steep from below but actually has a zigzag path up it. The rock scenery is tremendous, with the Faha ridge above and the tiny lochans hidden between boulders and ridges. Rain showers kept sweeping in, then disappearing equally rapidly. There seemed to be blue sky above, so we hoped for a Fohn effect clearance, but it never came. We emerged above the headwall into another predictable galeforce westerly and an immediate and complete change of scenery. Indeed, Brandon is famed for its east-west contrast: the eastern approach is rocky and dramatic (the route we took), while the west is just a grassy slope. We ploughed up to the cold and windy summit, before taking our time back down to the notch - hopeful of a clearance and even taking a very wet and cold lunch sheltered from the wind just below the notch. Finally, we were rewarded with a brief clearance and misty views down to the Atlantic crashing onto the beach 2500ft below. It was only a matter of seconds, though, and the weather then closed in for almost the entire descent: steady rain and thick clag. The changeable theme continued as we drove to spectacular Brandon Point: stunning play of light and shade with rainbows and showers tracking in off the ocean and Slieve Mish appearing then disappearing in minutes. A quick coffee in Mullally's Pub, then back for another pleasant evening in Killarney.

Saturday, February 16, 2019

Reeks Traverse

Peaks: Beenkeragh (1010m), The Bones (959m), Carrauntoohil (1039m), Cnoc an Toinne (845m), Cnoc an Chuillinn (958m), Maolan Bui (973m), Cnoc na Peiste/Cummeenepeasta (988m)
Area: Macgillycuddy's Reeks, County Kerry, Ireland
Although I've been up a few Irish hills over the years, in disparate parts of the country from the Mournes to Donegal, Dartry to Achill Island, lots of gaps remain. The most obvious being down in the south-west, where all the highest and most interesting peaks are. So this winter mini-break was a great way to kick off what I intend to be a fruitful mountaineering year, alongside Huw and Steve. After flying into Cork last night and driving to Killarney, we set off from Cronin's Yard into a strong headwind thundering down Hag's Glen. Intermittent rain added to the mix, although the cloudbase wasn't too low - around 800m - so we could get an idea of our surroundings. The plan was to head alongside the Gaddagh River to Lough Gouragh at the end of Hag's Glen. Here, the surroundings are dramatic, with mist swirling down into the impressive cwms below Carrauntoohil and Beenkeragh. We contoured the hillside above the lake and headed for the cwm on the right, before traversing left towards what was obviously an interesting ridge, marked Stumpa an tStaimh on the map. I believe this is known as the Hag's Tooth ridge, and we joined it at the top of the eponymous feature, a rock pinnacle. This was all wonderful, just picking our way through unfamiliar terrain: my favourite thing of all. The ridge was wet, of course, but good rough sandstone which gave nice (although generally avoidable) scrambling, with the odd steeper rise in places. After it eased, a misty trudge to a deserted Beenkeragh summit. I took a bearing to get established on the Beenkeragh ridge, which leads to Ireland's highest mountain: Carrauntoohil, and is a delightful route somewhat reminiscent of Striding Edge although the scrambling is extremely mild. We had it entirely to ourselves, and the strong winds eased a little - blocked by the ridge ahead. Occasionally the mist shifted to reveal the rock features and views down to Coomloughra. The ridge narrows at various points, and can be taken direct with good rock - over 'The Bones' for example, akin to an Alpine gendarme but counted as a subsidiary peak. A final slog leads to the top of Carrauntoohil - and the full force of the wind (as well as the weekend crowds, although still no more than 15 people). The gusts were ferocious, and the nav fairly tricky from the summit with lots of routes in all directions (similar to Yr Wyddfa in that respect). All good fun though - and we popped out of the clag at the broad col above Devil's Ladder (the normal route, a scree slog). The wind blasted over this col, but we had views on both sides with glimmers of light lower down. The ridge then becomes grassy although still well defined, and a tailwind blew us over Cnoc an Toinn to the higher peak of Cnoc an Chuillin (we finally managed a bite to eat nestled in a sheltered couloir on the lee slopes). There are few easy escape routes down to Hag's Glen from this ridge, and the weather closed in again: heavy rain, gale-force gusts, thick clag. We crossed over some subsidiary summits, then located 'The Bone', one the descents, before deciding to continue to the final major peak: Cnoc na Peiste (also known by numerous other names). From here, there were two more peaks along the final short section, but Huw wanted to finish so we plotted a route down the steep NW ridge - this took a careful bearing to avoid the crags, and we emerged above Lough Cummenepeasta then continued down steeply to a wild cwm above Hag's Glen opposite The Bone. A bog trot led down to the circular loop along the valley base and eventually the main path back to Cronin's Yard.