Monday, June 17, 2013

Dyffryn Mymbyr Climbing

Crag: Clogwyn Wen/Blocks, Dyffryn Mymbyr
Routes: Holly Tree Buttress (VD:led), Slab and Crack (VD:led), Chatterbox (S:led)
I had promised John B a better experience of Eryri after his unfortunate hypothermia incident at Easter led to an even worse infection which stopped him running for months. He asked to be taken climbing for the first time ever, so we set off for the small crags near Plas y Brenin by way of an introduction before our planned mountain run. I've never done these routes before, as the crags are just short Peak-style outcrops really, but Holly Tree Buttress made a near perfect beginner's climb: very simple yet nicely varied. It was a bit damp, as low cloud was producing light drizzle, but a steep crack led to a pinnacle, then a little traverse to a crack. Pleasant easy climbing up this led to a juggy final face. John struggled a bit, and left a bit of gear behind, but seemed to enjoy it so we did a couple of short routes on the Blocks before heading off on our run. Chatterbox was a thrutchy route up a wide off-width crack, hardly ideal, and rather tough for the grade - although extremely short. We then jogged back to the car and started our run up Siabod.

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