Moidart Ridge

Peaks: Druim Fiachlach, Sgurr na Ba Glaise, Rois Bheinn, An Stac

Area: Moidart, Scotland

This was another important piece of the jigsaw in this area: a beautiful set of peaks that are all just under Munro height and therefore even more untrodden and appealing. They look stunning from the road south from Mallaig, with the three Corbetts each having a distinctive, recognisable profile. I decided to do them justice by setting out from Lochailort itself, passed the big salmon factory and along a very tenuous path below the little lump of Tom Odhar. This led to a track not marked on the map. I encountered the farmer and had a nice chat before heading up into the main valley of the Ailort. I toyed with the idea of going up An Stac first but opted instead to contour up the left-hand side on completely pathless terrain - tussocks, bog, really hard going. I just had to read the landscape and eventually climbed up to the hanging valley below Drum Fiachlach where I had my eye on a slanting gangway that seemed to offer a nice way up to the ridge. It did, although it was very steep. I followed a stream/gorge to gain the upper cwm, then the gangway which eventually gained the ridge just below the true summit of Druim Fiachlach. Doing it this way really opens up a lovely horseshoe of the whole valley, with a well-defined ridge the whole way. The weather was cloudy with mist flirting with the summits, but the going along the ridge was wonderfully enjoyable. Views to the east over to Beinn Odhar Mor and down to Sgorr Dhonuill and Ardnamurchan were excellent, and a few grassy subpeaks eventually led to an easy climb up Sgurr na Ba Glaise. This is in a wonderful spot at the head of the valley and I relaxed for a while as the sun came out properly. Two golden plover accompanied me across the soft grass of the Bealach na Fhiona before a sharp climb up the dominant peak Rois Bheinn. This is celebrated for its views of the Small Isles and West Coast, poised as it is directly above the sea lochs and complex, indented coast. It was outstanding, and I spent longer on this summit than any other, reliving old times and looking forward to new ones (Rum in particular). The day so far had been easy, despite my increasing fatigue, but the climax was obviously going to be hard, over the isolated peak of An Stac. This stands alone and is very distinctive, but involved retracing my steps back to the obvious crossing point of the Bealach na Fhiona. Steep, loose ground, a bad line, led to the start of the climb up An Stac after having lost a lot of height! It was a hard ascent but I looked for some scrambling up the little outcrops and this worked quite well. The views down to Loch Ailort are almost as good as those from Rois Bheinn, outstanding with fluffy clouds and perfect clarity. I took a direct line on a tiny path down to the base of the main valley, and eventually picked up the ascent path under Tom Odhar all the way back to Lochailort after a chat with another farmer (18k/1500m/3.45). Fish, chips and beer in Mallaig overlooking Rum and Eigg under a cloudless sky was a delightful way to refuel.