Thursday, July 22, 2021

Offa's Dyke, day 4 (Kington-Knighton)

Another standard stage and another easy day through more beautiful borders scenery. A sharp climb out of Kington past the golf course finally regains the dyke itself (last seen on day one above the Wye Valley). Then came another candidate for my favourite section of all, the subtle beauty of the scenery around Herrock Hill. A carved chair had views back to Hergest Ridge and the empty valley above Dolyhir. The soft morning light, light blue sky and the light green of the landscape was just exquisite. The climb up Herrock Hill was so tempting that I surged straight up, losing the path to be faced with a hellish descent through head-deep ferns to regain OD just before it crosses back into Powys. Beautiful wild flowers festoon the dyke in these parts, and the route sticks religiously to it for several miles. The River Lugg was another beautiful pastoral highlight before Dolley Green, before riverside meadows lead to a steep climb over Gilfach and Hawthorn hills. This was all superb, with glorious views towards the Radnor Forest and the even quieter valleys further north. The route stays 'upland' in feel as it traverses above Pilleth (with its historical resonance) and Rhyd y Meirch before dropping steeply down to Knighton. After toasted sandwiches then a full body wash in the extraordinarily hard-to-access River Teme (gaining multiple cuts and bruises for my pains), a pint in the ancient Horse and Jockey was a delightful way to mark the end of this 'half OD'. Knighton was the logical place to finish, partly because it marked and linked the point I got to on the daytrips from the north I'd done with dad many years ago (Newcastle on Clun, to be precise). Also, it is the 'capital' of Offa's Dyke (illustrated by its Welsh name, Tref y Clawdd), as well as its half way point, and - finally - it has a train station (£8 to get back to Wrexham that evening). Quite apart from the obvious personal resonance of the OD route, it also celebrates its 50th birthday this year.

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