Area: Cuillin, Isle of Rum
This has been on the 'to do' list for many years, and the week's activity was arranged around this fabulous climax. Due to Covid regulations, it was hard to get even a foot passenger place on the ferry but with a bit of planning I managed to get a prime Saturday morning slot, returning that evening. A beautiful crossing at 7.30am, with a full Scottish breakfast, schools of harbour porpoise, huge rafts of manx shearwater, puffins and more. Just one tiny problem: the weather was on the turn and cloud was beginning to gather around the striking highest peak of Askival as the ferry approached Kinloch. I have gazed out at the Rum skyline from multiple spots on the mainland and Skye over many years, picking out the individual mountains with their evocative Norse names, so to finally get here was special. I loved it immediately, and walked to the hideous 'monument to Victorian vanity' that is Kinloch Castle in total silence, before veering off into the hills within minutes on the Coire Dubh path. This is a tad dreary initially, but easy going and fast progress until it hits the obvious broad col, which kinks right and leads via shelves to a bigger col, the Bealach baic-Mheall. It was still well before 9am, with views straight down to the sea on the left and Hallival the first objective towering above. As I climbed, however, weather prospects looked really quite grim: the weather seemed to be on the turn, mist dropping rapidly over Trollaval and Askival and some light rain beginning. The full traverse is mildly committing and so at this point I was beginning to think in terms of a return from Ainshval. It was hugely atmospheric, however, and I enjoyed some great scrambling picking a direct route up Hallival, which is quite impressive from below. The cloudbase was just above, so I could see down to Kinloch and across to Knoydart from the summit, although it was very dark and grey. Ahead, Askival loomed - mist swirling around the pinnacle which dominates the ridge from this angle. Across the cwm, Ainshval looked even more hostile, with the cloudbase still lowering. In the event, a nice scrambly downclimb led to a narrow, level, grassy ridge. Wonderful views of the sea left, and Cuillin right. Underfoot, hundreds of manx shearwater burrows. Then it was up into the mist on the dominant peak. I skirted the pinnacle, then moved right up shelves and short walls to gain the ridge crest. Up this for a bit until a tricky traverse on the right-hand side led to easy ground and the summit. It was misty, but the onward route seemed obvious and the weather definitely wasn't getting any worse - in fact, there were hints of brightness around and I soon dropped out of the cloud on the long descent down the west ridge to the broad green Bealach an Oir. From here, onward prospects looked much better with the cloud lifting, and I began to feel more confident about the full traverse. Physically, I was feeling good too. The views down wild Glen Dibidil to the sea and Eigg were fabulous, and the route up Ainshval was interesting, weaving first right then left with some scrambling higher up to the superbly situated summit. A fine isolated peak, second only to Askival, which looms above Glen Dibidil. The cloudbase was well above the summits by now, and there was no decision to make as the onward route looked superb. Perfect grass led down the ridge towards the unnamed peak via a pronounced col. More good scrambling up to this summit, then a splendid romp along to the final peak, Sgurr nan Gillean, in a superb position right next to the sea. Good views down to Dibidil and Eigg, and across to Knoydart and Skye. The descent was awkward, weaving down to the south to avoid crags, not entirely successfully, the cutting back across boggy ground down to the stupendous Dibidil bothy. Not only does this have an incredible location at the bottom of the cwm, right next to the sea but with Sgurr nan Gillean towering behind, but it is also wonderful inside, full of character. I had a little rest within, and rehydrated from the stream. The route then turns into a long coastal walk, really wild and remote, curving past the intriguingly named Welshman's Rock (supposedly because quarrymen helped build the Dibidil path). It was lengthy, tracing the base of Askival and Hallival and eventually cutting inland via moorland-type climbs back to Kinloch. Undoubtedly one of the best mountain days in the British Isles - around 22k, 1800m, just over four hours at a fastish clip.
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