Offas Dyke, day 1 (Chepstow-Hendre Farm)

Another attempt to make the most of enforced staycationing, putting a plan into action that has been on the back burner for many years. In the early noughties, I did a series of OD day trips with dad, getting all the way down to Clun, near Knighton, from the north. With four days at my disposal, my intention was to be as flexible as possible and try to get as far north as I could from Chepstow (with Knighton, the half way point, the minimum requirement in order to at least link the two halves together). I got the train from Chester to Chepstow, not a particularly easy journey, and spent an absolutely baking night in a tiny airless room in a pub. Next morning, the heat was already building as I walked through Chepstow and across the Wye to join OD and begin the long journey north. The path weaves around woodland above the Wye, with views often obscured by trees, until the famed viewpoint of Wintour's Leap at a large meander. After this, views across to the Severn estuary as the path weaves around in an indirect fashion before finally connecting with the first section of the Dyke itself, through more woodland with intermittent views a long way down to the Wye. Tintern Abbey comes into view and I stopped briefly at the Devils's Pulpit. Then comes a long but gradual climb away from the river to the Hundalls. At this point, the path takes on something of its typical borders character, beautiful, tranquil, magical. It was very hot, and I was glad of my water - but began to need replenishment as I rejoined the Wye briefly before heading into woods for a long climb east of Whitebrook (still close to the river) before another long climb though Highbury woods. Again, the shelter of the woods was a lucky bonus as the heat built towards midday. Thick ferns led down to Redbrook and a very welcome shop. Three cans of pop, a sandwich and some crisps and I felt rejuvenated: a lovely lunch break right next to the Wye (Redbrook has an interesting industrial history). I then took the Wye path, right next to a beautiful section of the river, all the way into Monmouth rather than the scrappy OD alternative. In town, I got a bit of food from M&S, just in case I couldn't get anything at the camp. This proved wise. Through the town to cross the famous medieval bridge and more fluid. Chepstow to Monmouth is considered a tough stage, but I had some way to go yet - heading west down Watery Lane through Whitehill and Dingle woods, and beautiful wheat fields, to eventually gain Hendre Farm after 33k/1000m. It was a beautiful tranquil campsite, with superb views across the land to come: a perfect place to spend the first night on the path proper. The heat stayed fairly intense until late evening, however.