A more leisurely start from Hay today, gently plodding alongside the Wye until the path cuts upwards into woodland and the very quiet country lanes around Clyro that represent 'Kilvert country'. Cool woodland gave way to an ancient bridleway and big views northwest towards Radnor and Llandod. At Newchurch, a delightful tradition - tea and squash provided in the open church for a small donation. All classic borders scenery again, ultra-tranquil with barely a sound. Another very hot day, well into the 30s again (weather warnings had been issued for the heat in SE Wales), so the steep climb out of Newchurch was sweaty, leading to nice hill scenery which gave a little sampler of what was to come on the Hergest Ridge. Wheat fields and then a twisting descent through woodland led down to the hidden hamlet of Gladestry. And, at last, my luck was in: the Royal Oak was open, bang on midday, and some home cooked ham sandwiches and a pint of Hobson's Twisted Spire in the beautiful beer garden was close to perfection. After that came one of the finest sections of OD, over Hergest Ridge: in contrast to yesterday's highpoint, this was immortalised not by an author but by a musician, Mike Oldfield. The ridge is lower than Hatterall, but similar in tone - little copses, a mystical ambience, and pastoral views north over more classic borders scenery towards Old Radnor. The ridge veers eastwards into England and drops gradually into Kington. This was a much shorter day that yesterday, only four hours and a standard OD stage (rather than two merged together). As a result, it was desperately hot on this section, completely airless. Another delightful campsite at Fleece Meadow right next to the little River Arrow. After pie and chips in town, I saw a kingfisher from the tent and a kind caravaner lent me his chair for the night.
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