Offa's Dyke, day 2 (Hendre Farm-Hay on Wye)

Hendre Farm was a delightful place to stay but I had a slight issue with refuelling. A couple of salads picked up from Monmouth and a packet of fruit bars were all I had, and these had to get me through to Pandy - an entire stage - where I hoped I could eat and then do the long stage over the Hatterall Ridge to Hay in the same day. The plan worked to an extent but I knew it would be a long day so set off just before 6am into a truly magical dawn. Heavy dew made my sac heavier but the first few miles as the sun rose were the most memorable of the trip. The low sun lit the dew soaked wheat and grass of the tranquil meadows which lead to the site of the medieval grace dieu monastery. As the sun rose into a cloudless sky, the views got better - delightful riverine meadows along the Trothy. Llanfihangel Ystum Llewern was a lovely hamlet and the day continued through orchards and quiet lanes to Llantillio Crossing. No shops of course but I did at least have water. I had a short break at White Castle where the scenery begins to change as the Black Mountains come into view. I got lost briefly in a confusing wooded section before climbing up towards Llangattock where there is a pub (but I was too early). Finally, I descended past the Skirrid to Pandy, still well before midday. Then, a major problem. There was no shop at all, and I was pretty desperate by this point. I recognised the Lancaster Arms as a walker's B&B so called there to ask, and the owner very kindly made me a sandwich with some fruit for £3. A vital stroke of luck - I ate it whilst drying my tent by the River Honddu. Replenished and rehydrated, I embarked on the hot and airless climb past Oldcastle up to the ridge itself. I was only vaguely aware of this having deliberately not done much research into the route. This was intended to liberate me from my usual approach - in Scotland or the Alps for example I research everything, as so much can go wrong. With OD being so tame, I wanted to let it unfold in front of me. So I was rather taken aback by the length of the Hatterall Ridge, which goes on for 10 miles. That said, it was very familiar terrain and the path gently undulates over the top of it, without any savage climbs. Also, on a very hot day, a crucial breeze cooled me down. The path maps the actual border, with Herefordshire's Olchon valley on the right (Longtown and points east) and the Vale of Ewyas to the left. Beyond, I could trace the route of the Black Mountains fell race which I did in 2014, losing the Welsh Champs by making a mistake right at the end. The ridge was a delight, despite its length, and I could look down on Llanthony Priory and Capel y Ffin, classic border territory immortalised by Bruce Chatwin. From Hay Bluff, a gradual descent off the ridge takes a very long time. I was tiring now, and in need of food and drink, but the path to Hay weaves through woods and fields before finally getting into to town where I cleared the shelves in Spar. More than 48k, with 1220m of climbing, which is quite a lot with a full sac. I camped across the Wye at Raquetty Farm and then had the problem of finding a meal during the 'pingdemic'.