Premuziceva staza/Mali Rajinac

Peaks: Gromovaca (1676m), Crikvena (1641m), Mali Rajinac (1699m)

Area: Northern Velebit, Croatia 

A wonderful and memorable day, hugely varied and satisfying, combining a famed through hike with three very different peaks including the northern Velebit's highpoint. The day dawned clear as crystal again and I set off into a perfect morning, anticipating a bit of a treat along the Premuziceva staza. This is a famous path cut into the otherwise awkward and unforgiving karst terrain. It beings innocently enough, with woodland tracks east of Veliki Zavizan, but then it kicks up into a wonderland of copses, peaks and sculpted limestone. In this weather, in the early morning, it was almost implausibly beautiful, and I had it all to myself. This section to Crikvena is known as the best bit of what is actually a multi-day trek down to Paklenica. I had no real plans beyond the vague desire to do a long loop beyond Crikvena. Initially I just delighted in the unfolding scenery as the path twisted and turned through little karst valleys and over short rises. At the top of one, a side path leads up Gromovaca via a delightful short scramble, taking slabby limestone through dwarf woodland to a more open summit. Views of pristine woodland stretching right down to the sea, and the sun glinting off the Lika hills much further south. From here, the route gets even more stunning, past a miniature side valley to the stunningly situated Rossiya hut - just a bothy really. I looked for water in the well, as I was already running low, but the only two residents said they had too much (5 litres) and gave me a bottle. As well as being very generous this was a staggering stroke of luck, as I had already realised I'd have to curtail the day from Crikvena due to not packing enough water for the weather (the heat and humidity was building, and there's no water at all in these sorts of karst landscapes, obviously enough). So I now had options. The first task was to bag Crikvena at the end of the best section of the Premuziceva (he was the engineer who built the path). This came after a descent into woodland then a sharp rise up a gangway in space up to a tiny col. From here, a surprisingly steep and rather exposed scramble takes clean and open slabs up to gentler stepped walls to the summit of Crikvena: at least British grade two but with one or two bits of ironmongery to ease progress. I then had a dilemma. I considered a longer loop to the east but in the end decided to retrace steps to the Rossiya hut then try to find the path that cuts eastwards towards Mali Rajinac, which I really wanted to do before leaving the area. I hadn't seen it on the way out, but located it easily on the return. It gave a giant extension, losing a vast amount of height initially as the path descends endlessly into the valley to the east - sunken almost out of sight of the Premuziceva, almost troublingly deep. I had to check my position a couple of times in the thick soundless woodland - nobody around, bracket fungus and other flora to inspect. At last, it bottomed out and I joined a more defined path leading up to the big track of Skrbina draga which links Lubenovac with Zavizan. From this, I suspected I could get up Rajinac and this proved to be the case - although not without a significant climb after all the height I'd lost crossing eastwards. The character of the day had changed utterly. Gone was the exquisite beauty of the karst, but it had been replaced by lovely woodland and alpine meadows. The initial climb through woods gains a big open meadow festooned with hundreds of butterflies. After a snack, a long and tiring additional climb through more steep woodland eventually gains a broad ridge to Mali Rajinac - tedious and tiring at the top. Great views across unbroken woodland and a remote, wild feel, enhanced by the fact that I had still seen nobody since the Premuziceva (and even then only 3 or 4 people). I retraced with care back to the meadow, then headed as directly as I could back to Zavizan through more dappled beech woodland. Some of my clothing was gone when I got back to the hut, but that couldn't spoil a great day. I jogged the 5k down from Zavizan back to Babic Sica where I had started 30 hours before. I had eaten nothing but an austere diet of bread and sausages, so headed straight to the local cafe when I got back to Krasno for Velebit beer, chips, salad and cevapi.

Northern Velebit

Peaks: Velika Kosa (1622m), Balinovac (1602m), Veliki Zavizan (1676m), Vucjak (1645m)

Area: Northern Velebit, Croatia

This part of the Velebit is utterly beguiling, stunningly beautiful. I had wanted to visit since visiting Paklenica further south in the same range in unpleasant weather in spring 2019. After a 3.30am start from home, I drove up the Zagreb motorway from Zadar and turned off for Krasno, fortunately having the presence of mind to pick up a giant loaf of fresh bread and some repulsive sausages from a tiny village shop. I originally planned to walk in from Krasno to the Zavizan hut but a conversation in the national park office persuaded me otherwise, so I drove to the park entrance at Babic Sica. A beautiful walk through beech woodland was the perfect aperitif, after which a high meadow gave stunning views over the Adriatic, glistening deep blue far below. Above another meadow, the Zavizan refuge - which doubles as a weather station. The warden's English was more limited than my Serbo-Croat (10-15 words), but I had reserved and got a slot in an upper bedroom with two Danish chefs. After dumping some gear, I formulated a plan as it was only early afternoon and the hut didn't serve food (only drinks). I opted for the obvious little circuit of peaks close to the hut, just perfect for the time I had available, and mindful of last night's race, the early start, and a likely 'big day' tomorrow. The first hill, Velika Kosa (or just Kosa - 'hair'), is just a few minutes from the hut up an easy slope - but immediately views open out down to the Adriatic and the island of Rab. The rest was just mesmerising - a delightful saunter down limestone steps and slabs to an open meadow, then a very broad couloir of superb textured limestone that gave surprisingly good scrambling, really enjoyable, weaving up shelves towards an open gully, then a steep little groove to the top of Balinovac. Quite sporty but again continuing the dreamlike theme. This summit has even better views as it is closer to the sea, seemingly poised directly above it. Little Goli Otok and massive Krk were also visible as shimmering islands in the Adriatic. Across a deep green valley, Veliki Zavizan loomed. The terrain was easier down to it, then through the botanical gardens full of rare localised flora to the steep ascent which goes through beech woods then turns seaward for the final climb to the top, the highest of the day. I retraced my steps then headed in a beeline for the hut to the northeast as the sun began to drop. It was never unduly hot, just delightfully warm, and the clarity and searing quality of light was stunning throughout. This continued all evening - I had a local beer, ice cold, with my rather austere evening meal of bread and sausage. Then I sauntered up to the top of Vucjak, the peak directly above the hut, for an even more staggering view. The sun was now setting over the Adriatic, I was tired after the early start, but the tranquility and view westwards was right up there, perhaps close to my all time top 10, and that is up against some extremely stiff competition after 53 years of action! A group of American teens spoiled the stay in the Zavizan slightly, but I did get a free bowl of pasta from their Croat guide which was very welcome. I retired early for an interrupted night's sleep - a lilac and pink sunset over Rab from the window as I dosed, a small herd of ponies with bells grazing the meadow.

Wobbler

Race: Robbie Webster's Wobbler (Frodsham Hills)

Time/Position: 43.33 (13th from 106)

At last, a pleasing 'fell race' performance, even if this is hardly typical of the breed - more like an extended cross-country course with its multiple intense short climbs and fast descents. Possibly the 5th time I've done it, and this is more or less equal with my best for the new course. Last year was characterised by torrential rain (and snapped elastic on my shorts) but this year conditions were perfect - dry and not too humid. I deliberately held off for the first section, which loops back to the monument via a steep climb, and then concentrated on trying to catch Neil who was well ahead at this point. After the very familiar haul down Jacobs Ladder and alongside the golf course, I did catch him and we stayed together for the grassy climb back up to Joe's Walk. This was all pretty full on, and I was close to my current limit, but never went beyond it and caught a couple more fast starters here too. I was really pleased to be able to keep the pace ticking over and to be close (or matching) previous times rather than recording another 'personal worst'.

Moel y Gamelin

Race: Moel y Gamelin (16k/860m)

Time/Position: 1.32 (5th from 43)

Yet another big 'personal worst' for the course, a race I have done many times. I'm not too discouraged, however, as this is always a race of thirds, and it was only the 'third third' that destroyed me (after a 5000 metre elevation week). I felt I went fairly well over the Moel y Faen-Gamelin-Moel y Gaer-Morfydd ridge (exactly 30 minutes from the Ponderosa to the far end of Moel Morfydd), then kept a decent pace ticking over for the long, and very dry, cross-country section out towards Carrog. In fact I began to catch the 4th-placed runner here, and did catch him eventually on this fast, flat section - but it proved to be only a very brief flirtation with 4th place. At the road, as the route climbs back through the bracken, I hit the wall (a not-infrequent occurrence at this point in the race!). The rest was a desperate struggle, haemorrhaging time all the way back over Gamelin and along the ridge to the finish.

Monte Brancastello

Peaks: Monte Brancastello (2385m), Pizzo San Gabriele (2214m)

Area: Gran Sasso, Italy

After something of an enforced rest day yesterday, marooned in Casale St Nicola (where we did a 7k trot into the untrodden woodland to the west directly below the main face of Corno Grande in very hot weather), we checked out and headed up to Campo Imperatore, well over an hour away but only a few miles as the crow flies. It is an extraordinary landscape, famously reminiscent of Tibet or Mongolia, an undulating treeless plateau, devoid of water. Extraordinary display of wild flowers, prime time of year. We parked below the top and headed up to Vado di Corno, a tiny col of vivid white limestone. In theory we could have got here from Casale but it would have taken four hours rather than 20 minutes! That's the nature of the range. From here, a superb 5km ridge unfolds towards Brancastello, a mouth-watering prospect. In fact, the whole outing, although short, was hugely enjoyable. Initially, a narrow path goes just below the crest before moving onto it around Rigo Rosso. From here, the climb kicks up and Brancastello looks very like a Ross-shire Munro. It is never particularly arduous however, and I was up in around 90 minutes with Steve just behind. A big snowfield fringed the summit of bright white rock. The weather was much hazier now, lacking the clarity of Tuesday, but the views along the rest of the ridge to Monte Prena were excellent and it would have been nice to have continued (but the location of the car prevented that!). In front, Corno Grande and the Portella ridge, with the Abruzzi hut visible. We took in the side peak of Pizzo San Gabriele on the return, and at the end of the spur looked directly down to our hotel in Casale St Nicola almost 2000m below, with the motorway snaking down to Pescara. I trotted back to Vado di Corno, light jogging at times, supremely enjoyable. After an espresso at Campo Imperatore we drove two hours straight down to the baking 35c heat and manic driving of Roman suburbia.

Intemesoli/Cefalone double

Peaks: Monte Portella (2385m), Pizzo d'Intermesoli (2635m), Pizzo Cefalone (2533m)

Area: Gran Sasso, Italy

The obvious objective today, and indeed of the whole trip, was Corno Grande. However, the amount of snow, and its softening condition, was giving me doubts. This morning, a word with the hut warden confirmed it. There was a huge amount of snow on the northern slopes, he said, and the alternative direct route ended in snow-covered gullies. We had axes but I only had kahtoolas (Steve had crampons), so a 'plan b' was required. Over breakfast, I formulated it: up both peaks that we could see from the refuge, with Intermesoli particularly notable (especially with the sun setting behind it), a gigantic pyramidal peak such as a child might draw. An obvious high ridge linked the two. Further, the main route up was south-facing, although snowfields still seemed a potential issue. The morning light was sensational as we took on the Portella ridge which is gained immediately from the high perch of the superbly positioned refuge. This was hugely enjoyable, minimal effort, stunning views, narrow and well-defined. A descent led to the Portella itself, an obvious col and crossing point. After this, a branching route led NW towards the next col, the Sella della Cefalone, located between our two objectives. As soon as we dropped north, big snowfields covered the route - I put on the spikes but the gradient was shallow. All supremely enjoyable, below the east wall of Cefalone, working our way round and up to the col. Another much steeper snowfield barred access, but I worked out an alternative up a rocky spur, quite steep. From the Sella, Intemesoli looked superb, and a lovely ridge led across to the next broad col, the Sella del Grilli, another major crossroads. From here, the route up Pizzo d'Intermesoli looks fearsomely steep, with three separate rockbands. It looked disturbingly like a giant version of Iceland's Baula which I flailed up this time last year. In reality though, the route was reasonable, picking its way up the steep terrain neatly. It was relentless though, and in fact the only relief was provided by the three rock bands which provided more solid mild scrambling up linked shelves. After 30 minutes of effort, I reached the madonna on the summit to stupendous views across to Corno Grande, where big snowfields (and a shear line at half height) justified our decision not to attempt it. It was very hot by now, although a breeze kept it from becoming desperate. I spent longer on top than I normally would, waiting for Steve to arrive. Monte Corvo looked good to the west, and more importantly the ridge to Cefalone looked entirely feasible. We descended surprisingly comfortably to lunch at our sacs (and a little group of curious chamois). Then it was back along the ridge to Sella dellla Cefalone and the start of the north ridge up to the summit. This turned out to be superb, and actually a tad more challenging than it looked. It was initially simple, but a snowfield required a detour up gravelly slabs. Regaining the route at an intriguing double gully, I headed down one, round a spur, then up another! A series of little walls, great scrambling, led to an easing then the summit. All very satisfying and another splendid peak, this time poised directly above the southern villages and distant L'Aquila. We took the normal route down, more good scrambling initially down little gullies and rocky shelves, then steep zig zags gained the brilliant airy but level traverse path which led east over multiple side valleys back to La Portella, fabulous views down to the valley throughout. I waited for Steve then set off at a fast clip back to our car which we had left at Fonte Cerrato yesterday. Very fast down to the Passo del Lupo (no wolves!) then steeply down the Vallone della Portella. Baking hot, and the path teased by weaving in to the cool woods then back out to the baking hillside. Some relief to get to the cafe and sink two soft drinks before driving across the other side of the range to Casale St Nicola.

Monte Aquila

Peaks: Monte Portella (2385m), Picco Confalonieri (2422m), Monte Aquila (2494m)

Area: Gran Sasso, Italy

I deliberately did less research than normal for this trip, my first time in the Italian Appenines, and I paid a price for it on day one as we arrived in Fonte Cerrato. The cable car was closed, and I hadn't fully realised that Campo Imperatore was just a short walk from the Rifugio. So we walked in instead - up the Vallone that the cable car ascends, a brutal 1300m vertical interval. This was desperately steep initially, and pretty hot and humid, a tough start to the trip but also a good tester. We had a little break at some old buildings and then the valley opens out and becomes more pleasant and less steep. In fact, it was enjoyable, with nice views down to the valley base and then a traverse of some side valleys to a final spur - where the futility of our morning and the reality of Campo Imperatore was revealed! After a break, some prosciutto, provolone and foccaccia, we took the zigzags up to Rifugio Duca della Abruzzi, a superbly situated hut on the Monte Portella ridge. We sauntered to the summit for fabulous views out across the centre of this most compact of ranges - the only major European mountain range I have never visited. After leaving some gear at the brilliant little hut, as atmospheric as any of the many I have visited, we sauntered along the ridge crest itself taking in the minor top of Confalonieri. The sun began to come out in earnest, mid-afternoon now, giving superb views of Corno Grande. An easy final climb led to the whaleback summit of Monte Aquila with its grandstand views of the rock walls. We sauntered back, avoiding the crest, and then made a serious assessment of the snowfields, with tomorrow in mind. Stunning sunset after our evening meal of minestrone, polenta and sausages. 

Bronwen max

Peaks: Cadair Bronwen, Tomle, Foel Wen, Mynydd Tarw, Rhos

Area: Berwyn

Always looking for excuses to explore the tranquil far end of the Ceiriog valley, this vague plan to maximise Cadair Bronwen had been in my mind for a while. It worked perfectly, on another very hot day. I left Llanarmon Dyffryn Ceiriog at lunchtime and headed up the very long road to the top of the Wayfarer's Pass (Nant Rhyd Wilym). This is tarmac initially, right up to the last lonely farm at Swch Cae Rhiw where the route becomes a rough gravel track leading to the famous pass. The lower valley is exquisite, particularly in this weather, low hills, oak woodland, the infant Ceiriog river, all shimmering in the sunshine. Higher up is bare moorland but I felt good, much better than I have done recently, and reached the pass in an hour. From here, a trudge across moorland with two rises over subsidiary hills, leads to Cadair Bronwen. We are approaching drought status, so these hills are far less boggy than they usually are. Some haze rendered views over Eryri hazy from the top of Bronwen where I took a break (it was so hot I actually carried some water!). Then down the familiar descent to the contouring path of Ffordd Gam Elin and up to Bwlch Maen Gwynedd itself, another ancient crossing point. Instead of descending to Cwm Maen Gwynedd, I took advantage of the tinder dry conditions and trotted along the ridge - over Tomle, Foel Wen and Mynydd Tarw - reversing the standard horseshoe last done with Morgan in January. I then extended the ridge to the final peak of Rhos down tiny micro-paths before picking up unexpectedly good tracks curving round to the east below Maen Gwyn back to the village. A superb route, thoroughly enjoyable, and although I was moving fairly slowly I felt good throughout: 21k+/800m.

Wincle Trout

Race: Wincle Trout (10.5k/550m)

Time/Position: 1.03.43 (28th from 291)

A very well-known and long-established race on the edge of the Peak that I'd never got round to doing before, so it was nice to put that right today - although the heat and humidity made life difficult at times. With a mid-afternoon start in a picture-postcard location, that heat was always going to be a problem and after a fast start from the fete down to the Dane and along fast, flat tracks, I started to struggle a little. Fearful of a repeat of Ras y Gader, I consciously eased off and the shade of woodland helped. At the far end of the course, the route headed through Lud's Church, a gritstone gorge, as cool as a fridge, which I had heard of but never visited. It provided brief but wonderful relief from the heat, after which the race climbs again to gain a high open ridge: the end of the Roaches. This gave some superb running, some breeze, and views of Danebridge and the finish far below. A steep descent down steps led to the second river crossing of the day, through the Dane, and then a brutal final climb up to the finish at the fete. A beautiful location, almost like a Disney image of rural England, and a great race. I was quite glad I had opted for a cautious, pedestrian approach in the weather and actually finished higher up the field that I had expected to.

Nantlle ridge/Slate Trail

Peaks: Y Garn, Mynydd Drws y Coed, Trum y Ddysgl, Mynydd Tal y Mignedd

Area: Nantlle, Eryri

Yet more stunning weather: weeks without rain or humidity, and a lovely trip over the best bit of the Nantlle ridge, which I had to myself. From the Rhyd Ddu car park, I took the standard, logical route up Y Garn - the way I remember the race going many years ago, unlike my recent running of the midweek Garn race which instead clambered up trackless terrain further east for no obvious reason! From bottom to top took just under 25 minutes: it's a steep slog but very possibly the fastest way up any Snowdonian peak. From the top, the world is your oyster - great views of Yr Wyddfa and across to Craig y Bere on Mynydd Mawr, where I've done a few obscure routes. Below, the NE ridge, another obscure but memorable climb which I have done. Ahead, one of Snowdonia's best views - the ridge to the fang of Mynydd Drws y Coed then across to Trum y Ddysgl - all shimmering and pristine in the continuing wonderful weather. It was cool, almost cold, but stunningly clear. I trotted along the ridgeline, intending to do a double traverse, but felt a bit tired by Tal y Mignedd so decided to take the superbly runnable grassy ridge from the obelisk (imagine building a jubilee obelisk above Nantlle now!). From the east end of the Mignedd lake, I trotted past the campsite to eventually pick up the long, winding section of Llwybr Llechi/Slate Trail which ultimately leads back to Rhyd Ddu, but only after a long westward climb over boggy terrain (even after weeks of drought) to gain forestry then tracks from Mynydd Mawr back to the village: around 2 hours (14k+/1250m) at a reasonable clip.

Llanrug 5k

Race: Llanrug 5k (North Wales champs)

Time/Position: 18.02 (18th from 193 [1st V50]) 

This was a somewhat experimental outing, for various health-related reasons, so it was pleasing to at least start off well at a decent pace. I had never done the route before so opted for it ahead of the Beast on the same night (which I have done many times). The fast start (3.25km pace) gives way to tiny lanes, uneven surfaces, and a few hills - all of which meant that times were down on where I might expect to be at present. Much more undulating than Capenhurst, for example. It was a nice course though, on a truly beautiful evening. After completing a triangular loop, a fast descent leads to a ramp which cost me sub-18, my entry-level standard for the evening. Still, it felt like a decent session and it was nice to win my category again in the 5k championships (I was also 1st V50 in the Covid-era virtual 5k champs and 1st V45 at Ffrith 5k champs in 2016).

Tryfan scramble

Peaks: Tryfan

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

The head was willing to take advantage of the perfect conditions but the post-race legs, regrettably, were not. So I contented myself with a short scramble and a long stay on the summit, drinking in the views which continue to be remarkably clear in the northerly airflow and blocked high pressure. Up the very familiar short-cut path to the gully leading to Heather Terrace, and then located the start of Nor Nor gully from memory. I've done this a couple of times before: a lovely little I/II scramble which takes four clean little walls on the left of the gully itself. At the top of the tricky last one, a hidden quartz slab on the left gains the upper gully after which I weaved left up unfamiliar territory (more good scrambling) to emerge at the North Tower. A lovely stay on the summit, superb clarity in all directions, then down to Bwlch Tryfan and the direct descent down the scree to Cwm Tryfan.

Llyn Brenig race

Race: Llyn Brenig Trail (9.5m)

Time/Position: 60.44 (5th from 87 [1st V50])

The perfect weather continues, so I should probably have worn road shoes for this 'trail' loop, which I last did 12 years ago. I ran sub-58 minutes on that occasion, but the course was slightly different, from memory. Now, it starts and finishes at the visitor centre end of the dam wall. I went off a bit too fast, meaning I paid a price as the flattish lakeside tracks give way to the rollercoaster path section along the far northern shores of Brenig. I remember this as the crux of the race from my two previous runnings of it all those years ago. I struggled a bit on the hills, rarely feeling particularly comfortable, but I was reasonably secure in 5th place (miles behind the top four though). I kept it steady rather than fast on the return leg along the western shore.

Carneddau loop

Peaks: Pen yr Ole Wen, Carnedd Dafydd, Carnedd Llewellyn

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

Something of a time-trail over a loop I have done many times, going back 35 years: in fact, this is probably the Snowdonian outing I have done most often - or variants of it. The plan was to put a bit of an effort in to the top of Pen, move reasonably quickly over the ridge to Llewellyn, then run at a steady/slow pace down to the road. The weather has been stunning for quite some time now, a northerly airflow stopping things from getting too sticky while also rendering all views crystal clear with no haze, a wonderful combination creating almost perfect conditions. I took a direct approach to the style from the A5, then stuck more closely to the standard path - unusually dry - up to the bad step and ridge beyond. Kept a decent pace throughout and got to the summit in 41 minutes from the road, which was quite pleasing. Enjoyed the stunning clarity across to the Glyderau, then trotted over Carnedd Fach and Dafydd for another short break. Then the long haul out to Llewellyn in exhilerating conditions - a cool breeze and incredibly clear views under an azure sky. Had it all to myself, as well as the summit. I took some good lines on the descent down to Bwlch Eryl Farchog and its little scramble. I then plunged down towards Ffynnon Llugwy and the steep access road that leads back to the A5. A helicopter was picking up ballast here, and I was warned to 'be mindful' by a workman, but it didn't interfere and I got to the road 31 minutes after leaving the summit of Llewellyn, less than two hours for the loop.