Area: Gran Sasso, Italy
I deliberately did less research than normal for this trip, my first time in the Italian Appenines, and I paid a price for it on day one as we arrived in Fonte Cerrato. The cable car was closed, and I hadn't fully realised that Campo Imperatore was just a short walk from the Rifugio. So we walked in instead - up the Vallone that the cable car ascends, a brutal 1300m vertical interval. This was desperately steep initially, and pretty hot and humid, a tough start to the trip but also a good tester. We had a little break at some old buildings and then the valley opens out and becomes more pleasant and less steep. In fact, it was enjoyable, with nice views down to the valley base and then a traverse of some side valleys to a final spur - where the futility of our morning and the reality of Campo Imperatore was revealed! After a break, some prosciutto, provolone and foccaccia, we took the zigzags up to Rifugio Duca della Abruzzi, a superbly situated hut on the Monte Portella ridge. We sauntered to the summit for fabulous views out across the centre of this most compact of ranges - the only major European mountain range I have never visited. After leaving some gear at the brilliant little hut, as atmospheric as any of the many I have visited, we sauntered along the ridge crest itself taking in the minor top of Confalonieri. The sun began to come out in earnest, mid-afternoon now, giving superb views of Corno Grande. An easy final climb led to the whaleback summit of Monte Aquila with its grandstand views of the rock walls. We sauntered back, avoiding the crest, and then made a serious assessment of the snowfields, with tomorrow in mind. Stunning sunset after our evening meal of minestrone, polenta and sausages.
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