Area: Northern Velebit, Croatia
This part of the Velebit is utterly beguiling, stunningly beautiful. I had wanted to visit since visiting Paklenica further south in the same range in unpleasant weather in spring 2019. After a 3.30am start from home, I drove up the Zagreb motorway from Zadar and turned off for Krasno, fortunately having the presence of mind to pick up a giant loaf of fresh bread and some repulsive sausages from a tiny village shop. I originally planned to walk in from Krasno to the Zavizan hut but a conversation in the national park office persuaded me otherwise, so I drove to the park entrance at Babic Sica. A beautiful walk through beech woodland was the perfect aperitif, after which a high meadow gave stunning views over the Adriatic, glistening deep blue far below. Above another meadow, the Zavizan refuge - which doubles as a weather station. The warden's English was more limited than my Serbo-Croat (10-15 words), but I had reserved and got a slot in an upper bedroom with two Danish chefs. After dumping some gear, I formulated a plan as it was only early afternoon and the hut didn't serve food (only drinks). I opted for the obvious little circuit of peaks close to the hut, just perfect for the time I had available, and mindful of last night's race, the early start, and a likely 'big day' tomorrow. The first hill, Velika Kosa (or just Kosa - 'hair'), is just a few minutes from the hut up an easy slope - but immediately views open out down to the Adriatic and the island of Rab. The rest was just mesmerising - a delightful saunter down limestone steps and slabs to an open meadow, then a very broad couloir of superb textured limestone that gave surprisingly good scrambling, really enjoyable, weaving up shelves towards an open gully, then a steep little groove to the top of Balinovac. Quite sporty but again continuing the dreamlike theme. This summit has even better views as it is closer to the sea, seemingly poised directly above it. Little Goli Otok and massive Krk were also visible as shimmering islands in the Adriatic. Across a deep green valley, Veliki Zavizan loomed. The terrain was easier down to it, then through the botanical gardens full of rare localised flora to the steep ascent which goes through beech woods then turns seaward for the final climb to the top, the highest of the day. I retraced my steps then headed in a beeline for the hut to the northeast as the sun began to drop. It was never unduly hot, just delightfully warm, and the clarity and searing quality of light was stunning throughout. This continued all evening - I had a local beer, ice cold, with my rather austere evening meal of bread and sausage. Then I sauntered up to the top of Vucjak, the peak directly above the hut, for an even more staggering view. The sun was now setting over the Adriatic, I was tired after the early start, but the tranquility and view westwards was right up there, perhaps close to my all time top 10, and that is up against some extremely stiff competition after 53 years of action! A group of American teens spoiled the stay in the Zavizan slightly, but I did get a free bowl of pasta from their Croat guide which was very welcome. I retired early for an interrupted night's sleep - a lilac and pink sunset over Rab from the window as I dosed, a small herd of ponies with bells grazing the meadow.
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