Area: Gran Sasso, Italy
The obvious objective today, and indeed of the whole trip, was Corno Grande. However, the amount of snow, and its softening condition, was giving me doubts. This morning, a word with the hut warden confirmed it. There was a huge amount of snow on the northern slopes, he said, and the alternative direct route ended in snow-covered gullies. We had axes but I only had kahtoolas (Steve had crampons), so a 'plan b' was required. Over breakfast, I formulated it: up both peaks that we could see from the refuge, with Intermesoli particularly notable (especially with the sun setting behind it), a gigantic pyramidal peak such as a child might draw. An obvious high ridge linked the two. Further, the main route up was south-facing, although snowfields still seemed a potential issue. The morning light was sensational as we took on the Portella ridge which is gained immediately from the high perch of the superbly positioned refuge. This was hugely enjoyable, minimal effort, stunning views, narrow and well-defined. A descent led to the Portella itself, an obvious col and crossing point. After this, a branching route led NW towards the next col, the Sella della Cefalone, located between our two objectives. As soon as we dropped north, big snowfields covered the route - I put on the spikes but the gradient was shallow. All supremely enjoyable, below the east wall of Cefalone, working our way round and up to the col. Another much steeper snowfield barred access, but I worked out an alternative up a rocky spur, quite steep. From the Sella, Intemesoli looked superb, and a lovely ridge led across to the next broad col, the Sella del Grilli, another major crossroads. From here, the route up Pizzo d'Intermesoli looks fearsomely steep, with three separate rockbands. It looked disturbingly like a giant version of Iceland's Baula which I flailed up this time last year. In reality though, the route was reasonable, picking its way up the steep terrain neatly. It was relentless though, and in fact the only relief was provided by the three rock bands which provided more solid mild scrambling up linked shelves. After 30 minutes of effort, I reached the madonna on the summit to stupendous views across to Corno Grande, where big snowfields (and a shear line at half height) justified our decision not to attempt it. It was very hot by now, although a breeze kept it from becoming desperate. I spent longer on top than I normally would, waiting for Steve to arrive. Monte Corvo looked good to the west, and more importantly the ridge to Cefalone looked entirely feasible. We descended surprisingly comfortably to lunch at our sacs (and a little group of curious chamois). Then it was back along the ridge to Sella dellla Cefalone and the start of the north ridge up to the summit. This turned out to be superb, and actually a tad more challenging than it looked. It was initially simple, but a snowfield required a detour up gravelly slabs. Regaining the route at an intriguing double gully, I headed down one, round a spur, then up another! A series of little walls, great scrambling, led to an easing then the summit. All very satisfying and another splendid peak, this time poised directly above the southern villages and distant L'Aquila. We took the normal route down, more good scrambling initially down little gullies and rocky shelves, then steep zig zags gained the brilliant airy but level traverse path which led east over multiple side valleys back to La Portella, fabulous views down to the valley throughout. I waited for Steve then set off at a fast clip back to our car which we had left at Fonte Cerrato yesterday. Very fast down to the Passo del Lupo (no wolves!) then steeply down the Vallone della Portella. Baking hot, and the path teased by weaving in to the cool woods then back out to the baking hillside. Some relief to get to the cafe and sink two soft drinks before driving across the other side of the range to Casale St Nicola.
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