Sao Lourenco

Massively popular, with hundreds if not thousands of tourists, but still a spectacular outing along the south-eastern peninsula of Madeira, taking in two small but sharp summits via the PR8. It was positively hot at some points today, and there is no shade on the route at all, apart from the palm trees at the cafe. Wonderful views back to the cloudy mountains and across the Atlantic in all directions, particularly where the peninsula narrows.

Pico Grande

Peaks: Pico Grande (1654m)

Area: Madeira

This was the mountain I most wanted to do on Madeira, a fine peak that occupies a very central position west of Saturday's high peaks. After an early breakfast, a complicated and very steep drive led straight up through several villages to the Boca da Corrida. Warm sunshine and wonderful views immediately, with the hidden Nun's Valley way down below and Pico Ruivo across the valley. Ahead, Pico Grande dominates, however, with its very distinctive summit tower. It proved far easier than I had expected, and I adopted a loping jog along the superb path leading to Encumeada. Two major obstacles block the path, the peaks of Pico do Cavalo and Pico de Serradinho, but the path weaves between them, contouring above the Nun's Valley at one point, then ducking through the gap: never too arduous however, and often almost level. At the Relvinha col, a major junction, so I took the eastwards path briefly before a more minor path climbed the hillside. It seemed fairly obvious that this would lead up Pico Grande, and it contours the hillside, fairly exposed, before curving back to the north-west. Thoroughly enjoyable throughout, and quite a distinctive landscape, quite different from Saturday. Open heathland with peaks emerging from an undulating plateau. The summit tower loomed ahead with some mist playing around. A sloping traverse right, then an easy scramble (chains) to a volcanic sandstone summit. A complete contrast to Saturday, I had the entire mountain to myself. I could just see down to Funchal as the mist parted. The return leg went equally smoothly and I was back at the car after 1:37 of effort (less than an hour for the climb to the summit). Back at a sunny hotel by 11am, leaving plenty of time left for a wonderful day exploring Funchal and Monte.

Ribeiro Frio loop

Peaks: Chao das Freiteiras (1200m)

Area: Madeira

Not really a summit, more of a broad plateau, but it formed the highpoint of this delightful circuit from the beautiful hamlet of Ribeiro Frio, nestled amidst subtropical vegetation on the northern side of the watershed. 'Cold river' seemed appropriate in the early morning out of the sunshine, a chilly spot indeed, although by the time we had reached the side viewpoint of Balcoes via the Furado levada, we were in the sunshine for the spectacular views out over the Foja da Noguieara valley. Mist was rolling over the high summits of yesterday, but the view was still outstanding, and in the other direction lush valleys rolled down to the Atlantic with Porto Santo very clear. We then went back to the village and started on our first proper levada (although I had already done a brilliant 5 mile run along the local levada dos piornais from our hotel that morning). Initially, the river ran alongside, fast-flowing, then the tranquility of the trickling levada Portela took precedent. I had been on the hunt for the endemic Madeiran firecrest all day and finally located one (not easy!) about 1km down this track, lively but giving pleasingly diagnostic views. The levada got better and better, with views opening out through the dense cloud forest, down to the sea. To the right, side valleys, waterfalls and giant ferns. And all the time the flowing water, just delightful. A few little engineered tunnels and the occasional exposed section led to a sharp kink right and then a wonderful junction at a little bridge where two river valleys converge. After a break, watching the tame Madeiran chaffinches and enjoying the delightful ambience, we followed the steeper stream up a much more obscure (and far steeper) path alongside the Poco do Bezerro levada (the stream has the same name). Babbling water on both side, dappled shade, lush vegetation, and a lovely path. Kate was tiring a little, as the climb was fairly steep, but after 1000ft or so of ascent it emerges at an upland meadow with scattered broom: a total contrast. A short climb then leads to the Chao des Freiteiras plateau and great views down to the Atlantic and then across to the high peaks of yesterday, where grey cloud was rolling in. Some drizzle as we turned at some derelict buildings to take an ancient cobbled path down to the road (echoes of the stone paths of Mallorca here). A brisk downhill jog back to the car in Ribeiro Frio, and then a superb late lunch at the famous Abrigo do Poiso restaurant, a grand old place with a lovely atmosphere. By now it was pouring with rain, which made it even more special as we enjoyed caldo verde and espetada in front of a roaring fire.

Pico Ruivo and subpeaks

Peaks: Pico do Arieero (1818m), Pico Ruivo (1861m), Encumeada Alta (1760m)

Area; Madeira

In the late 1990s, Kate came with me on several moderate mountaineering expeditions overseas, summiting Swinica in the Polish Tatra, for example. Since then, not so much, so today - our 22nd anniversary - was doubly memorable. Although rammed with tourists, and not my usual cup of tea, this is such a fabulous outing that I was able to push the crowds and ironmongery to the back of my mind and just enjoy the scenery and situation. The route starts near the summit of Pico do Arieero, replete with cafe, and mist began to peel away from the summit as we arrived, revealing a mouth-watering array of peaks and pinnacles along the complex ridge leading to Ruivo, the Madeiran highpoint. Without the paths, waymarking and steps, this would make a stunning and fairly serious mountaineering expedition. With them, it's merely a tourist attraction. Still, the amount of descent in the first few km still suggested a longish day out, as it is an out-and-back course. A narrow arete leads to a catwalk and then the first major viewpoint: Ninho da Manta. I've seen some views in my time, but this is right up there, despite its accessibility and hordes of tourists. A deep cauldron, ever changing views in shifting mist, pinnacles rising above, impenetrable valleys plunging downwards - it is spectacular. Then comes a narrower arete, sensational views, followed by a long series of steep stepped descents and then the start of the tunnels at the Paso de Gato. This allows the complex ground west of Pico das Torres to be negotiated via dramatic contouring paths and more descending. The wind whistled through some of these gaps - and I saw a spectacled warbler. Ahead, Pico Ruivo, accessed by very steep steps, which reminded me of the Bukhansan range in Korea, steps allowing ordinary pedestrians to access difficult terrain. A very pronounced col is reached and then the terrain gets gentler, a rising series of zigzags on the east of Ruivo, completely different in character to the drama that precedes it (but still very scenic). The trees are all dead on this side, lending an eerie feel as the slopes are climbed - eventually reaching a charmingly situated refuge in a glade on top of a broad col. Kate could then relax! I jogged up to the top of Pico Ruivo, Madeira's highpoint, sadly in thick mist by now. Then another gentle jog down, before I decided to append an extra peak to the day - the obvious ridge/highpoint further to the east. This meant another jog towards Encumeada before taking a steep side path, wet and vegetated, that I'd seen from the col. This led to a rock band and some chains, mild scrambling, to a huge summit plateau. I think, from pictures, these chains might have formed part of a 'vertical kilometre' running event held fairly recently. The highpoint of this peak is pronounced, despite the plateau, marked by a large pillar - and yet the name of the peak is not obvious. Research suggests it is Encumeada Alta. Whatever, views were superb - right down to the north coast, the Atlantic and Porto Santo, and across to the jagged peaks we had just traversed. An easy jog back to Kate, who had now finished her coffee! The return leg was equally atmospheric, with mist now swirling around. It got quite cold after the tunnels with thick mist and a sharp wind. Kate was tiring a little towards the top of Pico Areeiro, which is a considerable climb back out. Still, our moving time was much less than three hours for the entire outing, which is fairly respectable including the extra peak (16k/1250m). We recovered with a sandwich at the cafe before driving back down to Funchal.

Bala double

Over 20 years ago, I ran Ras Llyn Tegid, which used to be a well-known race looping around Bala Lake (in fact, I think dad ran it too, even earlier!). That race is long-since defunct, which is a shame but not all that surprising as although the outward leg is quiet, the homeward leg along the north shore main road is far too busy. My idea was to motivate myself to do a trial long road run to see if my 12th London Marathon scheduled for April is still on the cards, and do it somewhere nice. Broadly, I concluded that it is still on, as I felt surprisingly good today despite the fact that the last long run I did was actually the London Marathon itself last October! My illness prevented me keeping it ticking over. The far side of the lake through Llangower to Llanuwchllyn is a delight, peaceful and scenic with a little mist over Arenig but ideal conditions: mild and calm. Through Llanuwchllyn and then the busier homeward leg, which has a newly built path keeping you away from the road to Glanllyn. I completed the clockwise loop in 67 minutes, had a gel and drink from my car, then continued through Bala to add on a much hillier second loop from Llanfor up the draining climb to Rhiwlas. This was new terrain for me, and the 400ft climb (although tarmac) is pretty savage! Great views, and then a fast descent which came out by the bridge in Bala: 16 miles all at a reasonable 4.15/km pace.

Ruthin parkrun

'Race': Ruthin parkrun

Time/Position: 17.59 (1st from 79)

This was pleasing, the fastest I have run since October, so a nice hint that regaining last year's lost form might not be a completely forlorn hope. It is a very flat, fast course, but some of that is mitigated by at least six very tight 180 degree turns. Unusually for a parkrun, it is all tarmac too, looping round the memorial fields near Ruthin's football ground. I never felt entirely comfortable, but never in distress either, certainly something to build on.

Windy Hill fell race

Race: Windy Hill fell race (12m/2200ft)

Time/Position: 1.40.51 (25th from 219)

A fell race through a landscape familiar to tens of millions of people, Windy Hill crosses the busy M62 a grand total of four times. I have often looked out at this rather bleak landscape on the Yorkshire/ Lancashire border, but although I have raced just a little further north several times (Blackstone Edge, Haworth Hobble, Heptonstall), I'd never done this before. It was a brilliant outing, perfect for me as my recovery continues. From the HQ in the characterful Ram's Head, the race starts downhill to the Piethorne reservoir before taking gently rising tracks over Tunshill lane, crossing under the motorway to rugby fields on the edge of Hollingworth Then it curves back round and heads north over the motorway to long and fast contouring tracks leading to Lydgate and a junction with the Blackstone Edge race (memorable for being one of the first to restart after the 2021 lockdown). I remembered the climb alongside the Halifax road, although today's route was far more satisfying, going all the way up the Roman Road to the Aggin stone on top of the ridge. Awkward terrain then led south along Blackstone Edge itself with hazy views over Greater Manchester - a mixture of gritstone, tussocks and peat - although generally conditions were excellent as it has been dry recently, cool with high cloud. Eventually the M62 is crossed for the 4th and final time over the Pennine Way bridge, then flags lead to the mast on top of Windy Hill. A long undulating descent over the hills visible from the motorway to finally retrace steps, including (of course) the inevitable final climb back to the finish at the Ram's Head, a tiring conclusion. From a personal perspective, this was an ideal race today - long enough and runnable enough to be a good tester, without ever feeling the need to really push it. Interesting and enjoyable throughout.

Tal y Fan

Peaks: Tal y Fan

Area: Carneddau

The weather was far better than the forecast this morning, so I could have been more ambitious than just plodding up Tal y Fan. That said, time was limited and the ancient tracks south from Sychnant have always been right up there on my list of favourite places. A headwind made life tricky today but conditions were almost springlike with milky cloud and even a tiny bit of sunshine. I went via the quarry to gain the ridge, then headed north from the summit to loop round back to the quarry for a fast descent along the Pen race route (1:20).

Tarren Hendre

Race: Ras Tarren Hendre (10k/600m)

Time/Position: 1.03.05 (19th from 75)

For various reasons, I had never got round to this 'depths of winter' race before - possibly the only long-established north Wales fell race I have never done. It always used to clash with the XC champs in Rhug, but this year made a perfect day out to complete my return to proper racing, albeit compromised by an obvious lack of speed and fitness. Conditions were superb - no wind, nicely cool with a high cloud base - and it all made for a thoroughly enjoyable day out for our small group. I went fairly well at the climb, which goes up gentle fire tracks interspersed with two brutally steep direct climbs through conifer forest. Eventually, you emerge at the final steep climb to the top of Tarren Hendre. I was in 14th place, feeling reasonably OK after an ascent of just over half an hour. I descended badly, inevitable really given the length of my lay-off from proper racing. The long ridge over towards Tarren y Gesail take you round Mynydd Rhyd Galed, all runnable, and then little contouring tracks lead to the sharp turn north-westwards. From here, tricky terrain, very boggy in places, leads steeply to the old quarries in Nant Gwernol. The comes a long, fast and gradual descent down inclines and fire roads, normally the sort of place in which I would look to make up ground, but I found that hard to do today with limited road speed. I was passed by at least five runners on the descent from the summit.

The Horse

Race: The Horse (12k+/500m)

Time/Position: 1.12.15 (2nd team from 24)

There could hardly be a better way to return to proper racing than this, a brilliant and memorable night-time event round the 'Cilcain skyline' in lovely soft snow. Teams only, so I ran with Jez, still unsure about how I might feel. In the event, I felt good throughout and thoroughly enjoyed it, wonderful to be back! From Cilcain, snowy fields led to the Nannerch bridleway and then a steep climb to the ridge from the second checkpoint (all punch CPs, no marshalls). Snow falling and good coverage underfoot as we pelted along the ridge with headtorches, highly atmospheric. We took the traverse path on the western side, definitely the best route choice, up to the CP on Moel Famau. Then came the superb fast descent down the 'Collie climb', always exhilarating and especially so today (even more so because fast descending caused me problems during GF). Back to Cilcain and a very crowded White Horse via the fields. Around 70 runners in 24 teams. 

Erddig parkrun

'Race': Erddig parkrun

Time/Position: 20.03 (1st from 200)

The tactic of using parkruns to try to regain a modicum of speed after my mild illness seems to be working reasonably well. Erddig was very muddy this morning after lots of rain, with a lot of lying water even on the gravel tracks. As a result, I wasn't too disheartened by the slow time, around half a minute down on the last time I did it. The route is really enjoyable, particularly the wooded section. Morgan had another great race to finish 10th. HR was low, as it was on a 15k run the next day, leading me to finally declare glandular fever over after three months.

Penrhyn parkrun

'Race': Penrhyn parkrun

Time/position: 19.16 (3rd from 109)

Promising signs again, as my HR was normal today for this, my second time at the Penrhyn PR. I was 40 seconds slower than last time (around 5 years ago) but thoroughly enjoyed the circuit, particularly as the icy rain began to ease to great views over the sea and mountains. Steady but unspectacular pace, comfortable but it will obviously take time to get some speed back. Morgan had a superb outing and a top 15 finish. Next day, 16k to Penmon in abysmal conditions - floods, torrential rain.

Maen Gwynedd horseshoe

Peaks: Mynydd Tarw, Foel Wen, Tomle, Craig Berwyn, Cadair Berwyn, Moel yr Ewig, Godor

Area: Berwyn

An excellent way to start the new year. I have done this obscure horseshoe quite a few times, so it was nice to take Morgan round it today. We also hit the jackpot with the weather, as the mist peeled away from the Berwyn ridge just as we got to it. The problem with this circuit, however, is the near-continuous bog at this time of year. After the very sharp climb up Mynydd Tarw, the ridge undulates for a long time over Foel Wen and Tomle, very boggy in places. At Bwlch Maen Gwynedd it eases, and we had a short break here - quite cold with mist rolling over the main ridge. Luckily, the mist began to peel away from the west as we got to Craig Berwyn, spectacular effects rendering the Berwyn quite dramatic for a while. Then it was steeply down towards Llyn Lluncaws, sunny now, and along the very boggy and tiring moor to the final peak of Godor. A superbly simple grassy descent makes up a little for the earlier bog.

Chester parkrun

'Race': Chester parkrun

Time/Position: 19.30 (10th from 260 [1st V50])

My worst ever parkrun finishing position, but given that this was the first time I had run at an even vaguely quick pace since mid-September, I was pretty pleased. Only the second time I've done the B course, which takes a tighter loop with less off-road running. That said, it was still pretty slippery in the conditions. High HR at times, but mainly in the final mile.

Bethesda hills

Peaks: Moel Faban, Llefn, Gyrn, Moel Wnion, Drosgl, Gyrn Wigau

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

Like most people, I tend to neglect this side of the Carneddau in favour of the higher peaks. I remember doing the old Moel Wnion race route from Rachub nearly 20 years ago, but apart from that the tops of the first few little hills have rarely been visited. They are Bethesda's home hills, and I was up Moel Faban from the central car park in less than 20 minutes: strong winds and grim conditions higher up, so this was a good choice. Over the lumps of Llefn and the impressive outcrop of Gyrn to gain the standard path up Wnion with a lovely tailwind. That became a challenging crosswind for the ancient Llwybr Aryg track which skirts and contours the higher mountain of Drosgl. No real path to the summit, so I ploughed up through the boulders, mist flirting with the top, then plummeted down towards Gyrn Wigau. From here, a superb and exhilarating path weaves down to Gerlan far below: great views of the high Carneddau. A nice tour of the different parts of Bethesda (there aren't many more interesting towns) by doing it this way too: back down to the central car park through the hilly maze of little streets (1.41 for the 14k/1000m round).

Round the Walls

Race: Round the Walls

Time/Position: 25.48 (34th from 531 [1st V50])

A great relief to be back racing after my longest lay-off since E was born in 2004! By far my worst ever finishing position at the Walls race (perhaps the 12th or 13th time I've done it, 50th anniversary race this year) although that seemed inevitable as I haven't raced or done any speed sessions since developing glandular fever after London in October. I have finished as high as 8th in the past, but just tried to maintain a steady pace today - only the second time I have ever done it anticlockwise. In fact, this was possibly the best and most satisfying of the many different route variations over the years: a proper lap of the racecourse (surprisingly dryish), then east round the perimeter Deeside bike path to gain the walls on Lower Bridge Street. I had no idea how I would feel so took it very steady before picking it up just a little as we crossed Northgate: in fact my HR stayed relatively low throughout, which is very promising after the travails of the last few months - finishing first V50 was pure fluke, however. Morgan had a superb debut at his first ever proper race, finishing in the top 100, so a good day all round.

Carneddau south

Peaks: Pen yr Ole Wen, Carnedd Dafydd

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

A very rapid thaw, even by Welsh standards, with almost all snow gone and gale-force south-westerlies raking the tops. However, this was still another trip up new peaks for M, around a little loop I have done many times over several decades. A predictably wet slog up from Glan Dena, but then nicely clearing weather with spectacular cloudbursts as we took the little scramble above Cwm Lloer. Very windy along the ridge, with a painful hail shower, but great to be up here with the young man. Always awkward to descend from Dafydd to Cwm Lloer but we took a great line today and the shores of Ffynnon Lloer have always ranked highly in my list of favourite spots. Nicely sheltered too. 

Glyderau west

Peaks: Y Garn, Foel Goch, Mynydd Perfedd, Carnedd y Filiast

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

I missed the best of the weather yesterday, and did so again today: the early bird did not catch the worm. Still, this superb blocking-high cold snap demands some attention, so I set off up the very icy track to Idwal first thing, the peaks fully draped in white and nicely defined against a pale blue sky. I've been lucky enough to be up here in similar conditions many times over the years, and memories flooded back, especially of the winter climbs at the back of the cwm. Nothing like that planned today (the snow is still unconsolidated and the ice thin anyway), and my compromised physical condition still craves steep upward movement (yet baulks at fast running) for some reason, so the north-east (banana) ridge of Y Garn beckoned. This was superb, quite icy, some snow showers tracking in up Nant Ffrancon from Anglesey - nicely atmospheric with good snow cover. I put my kahtoolas on and adopted a steady uphill pace. I have done gate to summit in 28 minutes in the past, but was inevitably more pedestrian today. Not too shabby though, and I really enjoyed the hard-packed snow towards the top, and the bitterly cold summit shrouded in an icy mist. No place to linger, so I trotted down and along to Foel Goch in some tiring drifts. The weather started to clear as I crossed the deep dip and tiring thick snow up to Perfedd. Some sunshine now, and the mist peeled off Elidir as the sun lit the top rocks of Carnedd y Filiast: wonderful views, clearing in all directions. So far, so very good, but the descent from Filiast proved awkward under a thick blanket of snow. Getting to Ogwen from here is OK normally, but the path is narrow and hard to locate at the best of times. Today it was impossible, and I trawled through the nasty boulder fields for a long time, a very unpleasant 45 minutes down to Ogwen. I have had many unpleasant descents in my time, but this was a bad one. From the old Nant Ffrancon road I was in no state to run back to Ogwen Cottage so again resumed the now familiar fast walk, and it was icy throughout anyway. Crystal clear cloudless skies as I enjoyed a cup of tea and a pasty at the cottage, perfect winter conditions.

Carneddau north

Peaks: Llwytmor Bach, Yr Orsedd, Foel Ganol

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

A significant cold snap, long-lasting by the standards of recent years, and even recalling 2010 at times. As such, this was not the most sensible of choices today, due to the untracked nature of the ground and numerous drifts higher up, although time was limited so I couldn't stray too far from Conwy. I set off from the A55 at my now familiar fast walking pace, health still compromised. I would have done this anyway, however, as the road was streaked with black ice - and the path to the falls was similar in places. As a result, I decided against the awkward traverse above the falls, given the likelihood of ice, and ploughed instead straight up the fence - an extremely steep climb. Higher up, the wind was bitter - close to -20 windchill according to the mountain forecast. Around the subpeak of Llwytmor Bach the snow had drifted and this route was obviously not tracked out. I concluded a retreat to Cwm Anafon was the only realistic option, and that was hard enough, soft drifts throughout. I took a shallow gully to the top of Yr Orsedd, a fine place to be in these conditions (this ridge is too low and too close to the sea to hold much snow in normal circumstances). The rest of the fairly narrow ridge down to Foel Ganol was a delight, with an Alpine flavour as the sun came out, rare to have deep snow here, and great views across to Anglesey in front. Behind, Cwm Anafon looked menacing (although the weather infuriatingly cleared later on). From the col, I ploughed down to the tarmac and back down to Aber. 

Great End/Glaramara

Peaks: Great End, Allen Crags, Glaramara

Area: Borrowdale, Lake District

The weather is getting colder: temperatures plummeted overnight, and it seemed a good idea to get above the snowline today, which was high. Gone was the cloud of the last two days: crystal clear and bitterly cold as I drove down towards Seathwaite, one of the finest spots in the Lakes. I was vaguely thinking of going up Gable via Base Brown, but in the event I missed the path and instead headed up the main valley towards Stockley bridge. From here, one path goes up to Styhead Tarn (I remember going up here to climb on Gable many years ago). I took the Grains Gill path towards Great End, which looms superbly ahead, staying in view throughout. It is famous for its winter gullies and was snow-covered today. Even better, as far as I can remember I have never been up it before. So it turned into the logical objective for the day. Grains Gill narrows towards the top and becomes a little gorge (Ruddy Gill). Some tricky verglas required caution. At the top, below Great End, I joined the familiar path up to Esk Hause (painful memories of the brutal climax of the Wasdale Fell race). At Esk Hause, the snow cover became thicker, lending a superb Alpine ambience to the route up the Cove. It took me a little while to realise this was the familiar route up Scafell Pike, it just seemed so different in the snow. I had no intention of continuing up the Pike today, so branched off at the col to take in the plateau-like summit of Great End. Superb conditions, nicely snow covered with deep blue skies, and I had it all to myself. Bowfell, Scafell Pike and Gable all glistening white. I trotted back to Esk Hause with the sun dazzling over Esk Pike and Bowfell, then took the long, lumpy continuation ridge over Glaramara. Again, I have done this hill before but many years ago (from Langstrath, I think). The first peak of Allen Crags is reached very quickly, but the rest is a surprisingly long haul over multiple false summits. It is a little like the Glyder ridge at the Capel end, just when you think it's over, it kicks up again. All delightful though, with little frozen tarns dotted around rock outcrops (hardly any snow at this level). The top of Glaramara is equally complex, with numerous mini summits dotted around. I located the highpoint and then began the descent to Seathwaite down frozen turf and very icy north-facing slopes. I soon found myself above Combe Gill, too far north, descending to Seatoller. So I corrected myself and contoured round to embark on the extremely steep and pathless direct descent to Seathwaite. Fabulous views to Gable and Skiddaw were some distraction, but this was a very steep descent, even by my standards. Tricky to regain the base of the valley. A very encouraging three days: although I didn't really run, I did move quickly with some light jogging, and felt no ill-effects although remaining conscious the virus is still with me. Around 3500m of ascent, so things can't possibly be too bad.