Peak: Viso Mozzo (3019m/9,904ft)
Area: Cottian Alps, Piemonte, Italy
This peak is completely overshadowed by Monte Viso and was a very disappointing consolation prize for me after abandoning the main climb. The day had started encouragingly after a 4am breakfast and an efficient start under clear starlit skies. All very atmospheric, particularly as we reached the chains and via ferrata section that leads up a series of steep ridges to gain Passo Sangatte. As the first glimmers of light allowed us to see the onward route, the mist came down around the upper cwm. Worse, I was suffering from a nasty stomach bug and had managed very little sleep. After some half-hearted slogging up the base of the cwm I decided to call it a day and - after months of planning - retreated back down the chains to the hut, after which I climbed up Viso Mozzo in disconsolate mood. I did, however, have the bonus of some stunning photographic scenes as the mist cleared on a number of occasions. Spectacular views up mist-draped rock walls, thousands of feet high, along with several brockenspectres as the sun backlit my shadow on the clouds below. I sauntered down to Pian del Rei where I walked up the neighbouring valleys and bathed in the source of the Po as I waited for Vic.
Saturday, September 07, 2013
Friday, September 06, 2013
Pian del Rei-Rifugio Quintino Sella
Mist enveloped the car park as we arrived at Pian del Rei, so we enjoyed a very cool walk-in after a hot morning's cragging. Indeed, we felt quite at home up here - as the valleys above Crissalo have a distinctively Welsh feel: at least they did in these conditions. The walk-in to the Sella hut is lengthy but nowhere near as steep as Wednesday's slog to the Remondino hut. A few zigzags lead to a stream crossing then tranquil Lago Fiorenza. Vic and I kept to our own pace, and just above the lake I saw my first salamander, the endemic Salamandra Lanzei, which only lives in this corner of the Cottian Alps - an extraordinary sight, completely black and completely tame. I went on to see several more during the walk-in. A short climb up a narrow valley led to a long, looping traverse around the stunning, turquoise Lago Chiaretto. I was completely alone in the landscape now, the mist draping the walls of Viso to the right and the wedge-shaped Viso Mozzo directly in front: all quite dramatic. I waited for Vic and we continued upwards into the mist, weaving through some hostile moraines (dozens of alpine accentors, alpine chough and water pipits here) to finally gain views of the Lago Grande del Viso and the hut, which just materialised out of the mist. Rather chilly as we arrived, but a convivial evening followed, with superb roast beef and red wine as the rain hammered against the windows of the hut.
Po Valley climbing
Crag: San Leonardo, Piemonte, Italy
Routes: Spigolino (f5a:led), La Barbie (f5c:sec), Bugs Bunny (f5a:sec), Siamo Solo Noi (f5b:led), Siamo Pure (f5b:sec), Rodicchio (f4c:led), Super Mario (f5c:sec), Il Gufo (f5c:led), Vento Da Nord (f5b:sec), Liberati (f6a+:sec)
The upper Po Valley is littered with granite crags, and you don't have to drive far from Saluzzo to get to them. So after an excellent evening enjoying Dolcetto d'Alba and a range of aperitivos in the old town, we were keen to get some cragging in after breakfast. Monte Bracco is probably the finest crag in these parts, but we were mindful of the need to conserve energy after Argentera and before our attempt on Viso, so we settled for the similar but smaller crag of San Leonardo above the village of Revello. The walk-in became far more of a trial than it needed to be, because a jeep obscured the critical path junction which led to the crag. So we made a tiring and unnecessary detour to the shrine of San Leonardo on top of a big hill overlooking the Po Valley. Eventually, however, we reached the crag, which was ideal for our purposes today: perhaps 20-25m high, well-bolted, shady and tree-lined, all routes on solid gneiss. I kicked off with a lead of Spigolino, a little ridge as its name suggests, which gave delightful gentle climbing up an elegant rib of gneiss. Vic's lead of La Barbie was a steeper but varied line at f5c/HVS, which took a weirdly awkward series of interlocking reefs of granite before emerging onto a delicate and technical slab. Bugs Bunny took an easier groove further left. I then led another fine route, Siamo Solo Noi, which went easily to a small overhang taken on big holds. Great moves over this to another thought-provoking slabby finish. The left-hand line was marginally harder, particularly as the sun was now drenching the upper part of the crag and it was becoming quite hot. Rodicchio was an easy route on huge holds, while Super Mario gave some really excellent steep and juggy climbing up a series of quite powerful vertical cracks at f5c+/E1. The route of the day, from my perspective, came next - Il Gufo (the Owl), a big 80ft pitch taking an excellent natural line up the highest part of the crag. Initially, the route goes up an awkward wide chimney, which slants right and can be avoided by some steep and insecure (and rather green) shelves on the right wall. A few moves up the chimney then become necessary, before the route breaks out right up the now clean wall to an excellent sustained headwall with some tricky but elegant moves. Neatly sustained at f5c/HVS+ throughout: a pleasingly efficient, clean lead. A couple of shorter routes, including one at f6a+ which contained one very technical move off a one-finger pocket, before we retreated from the sun up the valley to a panini in Cristallo. We then took the tortuous road all the way to Pian del Rei at 2000m, where we began the long walk-in to the Sella Hut in temperatures that were at least 20c cooler.
Routes: Spigolino (f5a:led), La Barbie (f5c:sec), Bugs Bunny (f5a:sec), Siamo Solo Noi (f5b:led), Siamo Pure (f5b:sec), Rodicchio (f4c:led), Super Mario (f5c:sec), Il Gufo (f5c:led), Vento Da Nord (f5b:sec), Liberati (f6a+:sec)
The upper Po Valley is littered with granite crags, and you don't have to drive far from Saluzzo to get to them. So after an excellent evening enjoying Dolcetto d'Alba and a range of aperitivos in the old town, we were keen to get some cragging in after breakfast. Monte Bracco is probably the finest crag in these parts, but we were mindful of the need to conserve energy after Argentera and before our attempt on Viso, so we settled for the similar but smaller crag of San Leonardo above the village of Revello. The walk-in became far more of a trial than it needed to be, because a jeep obscured the critical path junction which led to the crag. So we made a tiring and unnecessary detour to the shrine of San Leonardo on top of a big hill overlooking the Po Valley. Eventually, however, we reached the crag, which was ideal for our purposes today: perhaps 20-25m high, well-bolted, shady and tree-lined, all routes on solid gneiss. I kicked off with a lead of Spigolino, a little ridge as its name suggests, which gave delightful gentle climbing up an elegant rib of gneiss. Vic's lead of La Barbie was a steeper but varied line at f5c/HVS, which took a weirdly awkward series of interlocking reefs of granite before emerging onto a delicate and technical slab. Bugs Bunny took an easier groove further left. I then led another fine route, Siamo Solo Noi, which went easily to a small overhang taken on big holds. Great moves over this to another thought-provoking slabby finish. The left-hand line was marginally harder, particularly as the sun was now drenching the upper part of the crag and it was becoming quite hot. Rodicchio was an easy route on huge holds, while Super Mario gave some really excellent steep and juggy climbing up a series of quite powerful vertical cracks at f5c+/E1. The route of the day, from my perspective, came next - Il Gufo (the Owl), a big 80ft pitch taking an excellent natural line up the highest part of the crag. Initially, the route goes up an awkward wide chimney, which slants right and can be avoided by some steep and insecure (and rather green) shelves on the right wall. A few moves up the chimney then become necessary, before the route breaks out right up the now clean wall to an excellent sustained headwall with some tricky but elegant moves. Neatly sustained at f5c/HVS+ throughout: a pleasingly efficient, clean lead. A couple of shorter routes, including one at f6a+ which contained one very technical move off a one-finger pocket, before we retreated from the sun up the valley to a panini in Cristallo. We then took the tortuous road all the way to Pian del Rei at 2000m, where we began the long walk-in to the Sella Hut in temperatures that were at least 20c cooler.
Thursday, September 05, 2013
Argentera
Peaks: Cima Sud, Argentera (3297m/10,817ft)
Area: Alpi Maritime, Piemonte, Italy
Routes: South-East Flank (PD II)
September means a late dawn this far south in the Alps, so there was no need for a 4am start. It's a shortish route, too, despite its status as the highest peak in the Maritime Alps, so we breakfasted in a dark hut at 6am and left in the half-light before 7am. Some mist was still draping the lower part of the Assedras cwm as we took the intricate route through the moraines before beginning the ever-steepening slog up towards the Passo dei Detriti. As its name suggests, this involves some appalling scree and moraine powder higher up. We managed to find a few more solid ribs to scramble up, and the ascent was enlivened by views of Nasta and more distant northern peaks above the Val di Gesso that I've climbed before like Malinvern and Fremamorta. Still, it was with some relief that we gained the Passo and stunning morning views over the rest of the Maritime Alps as the sunshine lit the ridge. But the views Gelas, Maledie et al, good though they are, are eclipsed by the prospect of the onward route - largely because it is such an outrageously improbable line for an easy scramble. No wonder it wasn't discovered until years after Coolidge made the first ascent of the peak by a much harder ice couloir further north in 1879. Essentially, it is a narrow ramp curving up to a couloir, almost invisible from below. We descended a little too far over the other side of the ridge initially, giving us a slightly awkward and exposed section of slabby scrambling to gain the main ledge line at two long fixed ropes below the walls of Cima Genova. The ledge line continues in this superbly atmospheric vein, poised between the upper walls and the small glacier/neve field above the Baus bivouac. A few quite narrow sections lead to a rounded slab then a short chimney. Above this, easier and less exposed slopes up to a much longer couloir, which has fixed ropes up its entire length but gives pleasant II+ scrambling up to the east ridge. This gives a short section of very easy scrambling to gain the summit. We spent a few minutes here enjoying fantastic views as far as Monte Rosa, with tendrils of mist accentuating the atmosphere of the walls plunging down to the south. It was very satisfying to pick out the peaks I've climbed in this area. We roped up for some of the descent, just to renew our acquaintance with moving together. The ledge traverse was misty initially, then clearing, giving some stunning effects. From the Passo, the descent back to the hut, then valley, is pretty arduous. I passed within a couple of metres of a huge ibex at one point, then a small flock of ptarmigan (still white) flew over. After a cold wash in the river, we drove for pizza in Borgo San Dalmazzo, then continued north to hotel and aperitifs in Saluzzo.
Area: Alpi Maritime, Piemonte, Italy
Routes: South-East Flank (PD II)
September means a late dawn this far south in the Alps, so there was no need for a 4am start. It's a shortish route, too, despite its status as the highest peak in the Maritime Alps, so we breakfasted in a dark hut at 6am and left in the half-light before 7am. Some mist was still draping the lower part of the Assedras cwm as we took the intricate route through the moraines before beginning the ever-steepening slog up towards the Passo dei Detriti. As its name suggests, this involves some appalling scree and moraine powder higher up. We managed to find a few more solid ribs to scramble up, and the ascent was enlivened by views of Nasta and more distant northern peaks above the Val di Gesso that I've climbed before like Malinvern and Fremamorta. Still, it was with some relief that we gained the Passo and stunning morning views over the rest of the Maritime Alps as the sunshine lit the ridge. But the views Gelas, Maledie et al, good though they are, are eclipsed by the prospect of the onward route - largely because it is such an outrageously improbable line for an easy scramble. No wonder it wasn't discovered until years after Coolidge made the first ascent of the peak by a much harder ice couloir further north in 1879. Essentially, it is a narrow ramp curving up to a couloir, almost invisible from below. We descended a little too far over the other side of the ridge initially, giving us a slightly awkward and exposed section of slabby scrambling to gain the main ledge line at two long fixed ropes below the walls of Cima Genova. The ledge line continues in this superbly atmospheric vein, poised between the upper walls and the small glacier/neve field above the Baus bivouac. A few quite narrow sections lead to a rounded slab then a short chimney. Above this, easier and less exposed slopes up to a much longer couloir, which has fixed ropes up its entire length but gives pleasant II+ scrambling up to the east ridge. This gives a short section of very easy scrambling to gain the summit. We spent a few minutes here enjoying fantastic views as far as Monte Rosa, with tendrils of mist accentuating the atmosphere of the walls plunging down to the south. It was very satisfying to pick out the peaks I've climbed in this area. We roped up for some of the descent, just to renew our acquaintance with moving together. The ledge traverse was misty initially, then clearing, giving some stunning effects. From the Passo, the descent back to the hut, then valley, is pretty arduous. I passed within a couple of metres of a huge ibex at one point, then a small flock of ptarmigan (still white) flew over. After a cold wash in the river, we drove for pizza in Borgo San Dalmazzo, then continued north to hotel and aperitifs in Saluzzo.
Wednesday, September 04, 2013
Valdieri-Rifugio Remondino walk
Over a period of two decades, I reckon I've climbed more than 30 peaks in the Maritime Alps. However, the one big omission from my CV has always been the Argentera, the highpoint of the range. So this short trip with Vic seemed a good way to put that right, by treating it as a short acclimatisation peak en route to Viso. It's a long drive from Nice across the border into Liguria then Piemonte. Pleasant though, especially if you break the drive with salad nicoise in a superb Tende restaurant. The drive to the roadhead at Terme di Valdieri is astonishing: it starts off well surfaced and not too steep, but ends in several miles of bouldery unsurfaced singletrack. Not for the faint-hearted, and not ideal in the tiny C1 hire car we'd just picked up at Nice airport! The walk-in to the Remondino hut at the base of the Argentera is short and sharp, but the scenery at the end of the valley is delightful. I know the other side of this valley (i.e. across the frontier ridge around Le Boreon) very well, just a steep walk away on foot, but hundreds of miles and a day's journey by car. After weaving up through copses, a huge boulder field allows steeper upper slopes below a superb waterfall to be reached. A final steep (and hot) pull gains the upper cwm and the hut in a spectacular position below the pinnacles of Nasta and Argentera. We were both tired after a 5am start from Wales, so a few glasses of wine and an excellent meal of local game (chamois?) and mash sent us off for an early night after enjoying a wonderful cloud inversion as tendrils of mist licked up the Val di Gesso.
Sunday, September 01, 2013
Caernarfon 10k
Race: Caernarfon 10k (North Wales Championships)
Time/Position: 36.10 (9th from 211 [2nd V40])
It's always nice to have an excuse to head out to Caernarfon with the family, even though we'd just got back from a long drive to London via Leicester. This was an opportunity to clear the head, although I still had a long urban East End run through Leyton in my legs. As such, it was a workmanlike performance at best, a few seconds down on last year's time (when it incorporated the Welsh Champs) and even further down on my best time for the course. I know from past experience that it is easy for me to overdo it on the flat seaside section that goes on for over 4k, with great views of Mynydd Mawr and the Menai Straits. I have suffered on the hills that give the rest of this route its character as a result of this in the past. So I took it fairly easy, especially as there was a headwind, losing too much ground to others in the category perhaps and going through 5k in 18.00. But it did mean I felt reasonably fresh for the hills, and I did pick up a few more places before losing out in the final very fast section past the castle.
Time/Position: 36.10 (9th from 211 [2nd V40])
It's always nice to have an excuse to head out to Caernarfon with the family, even though we'd just got back from a long drive to London via Leicester. This was an opportunity to clear the head, although I still had a long urban East End run through Leyton in my legs. As such, it was a workmanlike performance at best, a few seconds down on last year's time (when it incorporated the Welsh Champs) and even further down on my best time for the course. I know from past experience that it is easy for me to overdo it on the flat seaside section that goes on for over 4k, with great views of Mynydd Mawr and the Menai Straits. I have suffered on the hills that give the rest of this route its character as a result of this in the past. So I took it fairly easy, especially as there was a headwind, losing too much ground to others in the category perhaps and going through 5k in 18.00. But it did mean I felt reasonably fresh for the hills, and I did pick up a few more places before losing out in the final very fast section past the castle.
Monday, August 26, 2013
Moel Famau fell race
Race: Cilcain Mountain Race (5m/1237ft)
Time/Position: 36.56 (10th from 202)
Last year's time was a minute down on 2011, and this was even slower! Not sure whether this is symbolic of a gradual decline, or an unusually good performance two years ago. Whatever, today was my tenth running of the event and so an anniversary of sorts: there is surely no other race I have done 10 times. A superb day for it too, sunny and clear, and a huge field (200+) turned out. It is far from a typical Clwydian race, with its big cheering crowds and village show atmosphere, but I always enjoy it. It was hotter than usual today, and I may have gone off a little too fast. Struggled quite early on the zigzags and was much slower to the top than usual. I made up for this a little with a reasonably sharp descent, and managed to claw back a few places and hold on for the final climb back to the village to just squeeze into the top 10.
Time/Position: 36.56 (10th from 202)
Last year's time was a minute down on 2011, and this was even slower! Not sure whether this is symbolic of a gradual decline, or an unusually good performance two years ago. Whatever, today was my tenth running of the event and so an anniversary of sorts: there is surely no other race I have done 10 times. A superb day for it too, sunny and clear, and a huge field (200+) turned out. It is far from a typical Clwydian race, with its big cheering crowds and village show atmosphere, but I always enjoy it. It was hotter than usual today, and I may have gone off a little too fast. Struggled quite early on the zigzags and was much slower to the top than usual. I made up for this a little with a reasonably sharp descent, and managed to claw back a few places and hold on for the final climb back to the village to just squeeze into the top 10.
Friday, August 23, 2013
Castle Inn climbing
Peak/Crag: Castle Inn Quarry
Routes: School Mam (f6a:led), Route 1 (f5:sec), Route 2 (f6a:sec), Lili Marlene (f5+:led), Alone With The Moon (f5:sec), Right-hand Variant (f6a:sec), Open Legs (f6b:led), Finale (f5:sec), More Than This (f6a:sec)
A huge contrast with our last visit in February when we climbed 20 routes but the temperature never rose above -2c!. I've been climbing here for 22 years and have done the routes on the main face around 15 times, but it remains the closest thing to a French-style bolted limestone crag in Wales. We only had a couple of hours spare, so I kicked off with the overgraded School Mam, the newer direct line, which goes up small positive holds to gain a steepish crack which leads to a very juggy final wall which is far easier than it looks from below. Mick then led Route 1, which remains (by some margin) my most frequently climbed route: always entertaining and now with even more bolts. Route 2, even with its polish, remains another soft touch in my view, but I always enjoy the technical moves up the little nobules and the tiny pinch-grip stalactite on the flowstone. We moved further to the left, where I led the awkward line of Lili Marlene before seconding Mick up a couple of other short routes. I then led the short but intricate 6b to its left. I did this cleanly and quickly, but again feel that it is probably a tad overgraded. Small holds, and tiny ripples for the feet, allow for moves diagonally right to gain a superb sharp edge and easier climbing. The 6a arete left of Finale was also despatched cleanly and efficiently: a valuable short session in advance of next months Alps trip.
Routes: School Mam (f6a:led), Route 1 (f5:sec), Route 2 (f6a:sec), Lili Marlene (f5+:led), Alone With The Moon (f5:sec), Right-hand Variant (f6a:sec), Open Legs (f6b:led), Finale (f5:sec), More Than This (f6a:sec)
A huge contrast with our last visit in February when we climbed 20 routes but the temperature never rose above -2c!. I've been climbing here for 22 years and have done the routes on the main face around 15 times, but it remains the closest thing to a French-style bolted limestone crag in Wales. We only had a couple of hours spare, so I kicked off with the overgraded School Mam, the newer direct line, which goes up small positive holds to gain a steepish crack which leads to a very juggy final wall which is far easier than it looks from below. Mick then led Route 1, which remains (by some margin) my most frequently climbed route: always entertaining and now with even more bolts. Route 2, even with its polish, remains another soft touch in my view, but I always enjoy the technical moves up the little nobules and the tiny pinch-grip stalactite on the flowstone. We moved further to the left, where I led the awkward line of Lili Marlene before seconding Mick up a couple of other short routes. I then led the short but intricate 6b to its left. I did this cleanly and quickly, but again feel that it is probably a tad overgraded. Small holds, and tiny ripples for the feet, allow for moves diagonally right to gain a superb sharp edge and easier climbing. The 6a arete left of Finale was also despatched cleanly and efficiently: a valuable short session in advance of next months Alps trip.
Thursday, August 22, 2013
Conwy Mountain climbing
Peak/Crag: Conwy Mountain Slab
Routes: Far Right Crack (VD:sol), Oaklands (S 4a:sol), Central Groove (D:sol), Left Slab Crack (MS:sol), Far Left Crack (VD:sol), Left corner (VD:sol), Central Arete (D:sol)
Keen to try out a new pair of running shoes after returning from our morning in Betws, so I jogged from the house up the normal route up Mynydd y Dref/Conwy Mountain in more warm sunshine. I stopped at the slab to do all seven of the natural 'lines' that mark this easy venue. You can climb almost anywhere at VDiff, although there is a tiny technical move at the top of Oaklands on the right of the slab. The best route is the obvious thin crack in the left-hand slab, which gives delightful gentle climbing at around Mild Severe. Just lovely in the hot sunshine, savouring the crisp moves and the warm rock. After this short climbing session, I continued running to the top of the hill, slowing a little after yesterday's race and this morning's short but intense outing. From here I ran back down the main path taken by the half marathon route (4 Aug) to a remarkable little wall of igneous rock that I've never noticed before. This (welded tuff) was a little like the chicken heads of Riglos, and I played around on it before running back to the house.
Routes: Far Right Crack (VD:sol), Oaklands (S 4a:sol), Central Groove (D:sol), Left Slab Crack (MS:sol), Far Left Crack (VD:sol), Left corner (VD:sol), Central Arete (D:sol)
Keen to try out a new pair of running shoes after returning from our morning in Betws, so I jogged from the house up the normal route up Mynydd y Dref/Conwy Mountain in more warm sunshine. I stopped at the slab to do all seven of the natural 'lines' that mark this easy venue. You can climb almost anywhere at VDiff, although there is a tiny technical move at the top of Oaklands on the right of the slab. The best route is the obvious thin crack in the left-hand slab, which gives delightful gentle climbing at around Mild Severe. Just lovely in the hot sunshine, savouring the crisp moves and the warm rock. After this short climbing session, I continued running to the top of the hill, slowing a little after yesterday's race and this morning's short but intense outing. From here I ran back down the main path taken by the half marathon route (4 Aug) to a remarkable little wall of igneous rock that I've never noticed before. This (welded tuff) was a little like the chicken heads of Riglos, and I played around on it before running back to the house.
Clogwyn Cyrau climbing
Peak/Crag: Little Buttess, Clogwyn Cyrau, Betws
Routes: Ifan (VD:sol), The Groove (VD:sol), Sian (VD:sol), Siencyn (S:sol), Eliminate Start (VS:sol)
Being time-squeezed when climbing is not an uncommon experience for me, but this was an even shorter window than usual. Kate and kids had fizzy drinks in a Betws cafe, giving me less than 40 minutes to run up to Clogwyn Cyrau, do a few routes, and pelt back down through the forest. A beautiful day of warm sunshine, so I just nipped up a few familiar and very easy routes. That said, I don't think I've done Ifan before so did it first: a little groove just left of the enjoyable arete. The others were all good fun, nice to be in the shade but still rather humid. I took a little variant up the wall of Siencyn, then a long bouldery traverse of the wall to the right of the Eliminate Start, before running flat out back to Betws and taking the family on a long walk up to Miner's Bridge.
Routes: Ifan (VD:sol), The Groove (VD:sol), Sian (VD:sol), Siencyn (S:sol), Eliminate Start (VS:sol)
Being time-squeezed when climbing is not an uncommon experience for me, but this was an even shorter window than usual. Kate and kids had fizzy drinks in a Betws cafe, giving me less than 40 minutes to run up to Clogwyn Cyrau, do a few routes, and pelt back down through the forest. A beautiful day of warm sunshine, so I just nipped up a few familiar and very easy routes. That said, I don't think I've done Ifan before so did it first: a little groove just left of the enjoyable arete. The others were all good fun, nice to be in the shade but still rather humid. I took a little variant up the wall of Siencyn, then a long bouldery traverse of the wall to the right of the Eliminate Start, before running flat out back to Betws and taking the family on a long walk up to Miner's Bridge.
Wednesday, August 21, 2013
Ras y Mynydd
Race: Ras y Mynydd, Mynydd Llandegai (4.5m/800ft)
Time/Position: 29.31 (2nd from 43)
A cracking race - short and fast - which takes a logical loop round this little village in the wild Bethesda hinterland, whilst also taking in a great climb up Moel y Ci. A very fast start from the village hall, down small lanes, leads up to more typical fell race terrain to circumnavigate Moel y Ci. It joins uphill forest tracks to loop north round the hill to Parc y Bwlch, then takes a narrow path across to a sharp, steepish climb after Tynllidiart. I started out in fourth place but had worked my way up to second by the time we got to the woods: there were plenty of route options and the leader was just out of sight, so I had to guess the most logical route! After a very fast descent down to the western edge of the village, I could see the leader and got a bit closer to him on the long tarmac descent to the open moor of Gwaen Gynfi. There was no way I was going to catch him, however, so I just tried to consolidate second place and keep it going for the XC section across the moor. Great views of the mist peeling away from nearby Elidir Fawr. More road then leads back into the village for a final steep climb - luckily I felt surprisingly good throughout the race so was able to keep it going for a decent finish back at the hall, 22 seconds behind the winner. Excellent bara brith and tea was a welcome finishing touch. This race has been going for well over 20 years, apparently, and used to attract 120 runners.
Time/Position: 29.31 (2nd from 43)
A cracking race - short and fast - which takes a logical loop round this little village in the wild Bethesda hinterland, whilst also taking in a great climb up Moel y Ci. A very fast start from the village hall, down small lanes, leads up to more typical fell race terrain to circumnavigate Moel y Ci. It joins uphill forest tracks to loop north round the hill to Parc y Bwlch, then takes a narrow path across to a sharp, steepish climb after Tynllidiart. I started out in fourth place but had worked my way up to second by the time we got to the woods: there were plenty of route options and the leader was just out of sight, so I had to guess the most logical route! After a very fast descent down to the western edge of the village, I could see the leader and got a bit closer to him on the long tarmac descent to the open moor of Gwaen Gynfi. There was no way I was going to catch him, however, so I just tried to consolidate second place and keep it going for the XC section across the moor. Great views of the mist peeling away from nearby Elidir Fawr. More road then leads back into the village for a final steep climb - luckily I felt surprisingly good throughout the race so was able to keep it going for a decent finish back at the hall, 22 seconds behind the winner. Excellent bara brith and tea was a welcome finishing touch. This race has been going for well over 20 years, apparently, and used to attract 120 runners.
Monday, August 19, 2013
Crafnant climbing
Peak/Crag: Two Tier Buttress, Crafnant
Routes: Little Cludge (HS 4b:led), Yew Tree Slabs p. 2 (VD:led), Pinnacle Wall Indirect (HS 4b:sec)
Rather like our bushwhacking expedition above Swallow Falls earlier this month, it is very disappointing to see these fine little climbs falling into disuse. I last climbed in Crafnant in 2002 with Tim (M a tiny baby in the cafe below) and remembered the climbs as short, clean and enjoyable. Now, however, the approach path is overgrown and even these good easy routes are not getting much traffic at all. Mick and I left in the early evening, and only had a couple of hours spare, so ploughed quickly up through the woods and eventually hacked out a route over to Two Tier Buttress. I led through thick grass and brambles to get to the clean slabs at the start of Little Cludge. This gives an excellent little pitch which really deserves more attention. Pleasant climbing up slabs to a break, then a steep finish, quite committing and thought-provoking for the grade. A juggy, vertical crack leads via a couple of small ledges to a little flake, then a tricky crux move as the crack steepens to gain superb, huge holds and an escape right to a nasty vegetated finish. From here I continued up the second pitch of Yew Tree Slabs to belay awkwardly within the branches of the ancient yew itself. Beautiful views out over this tranquil valley - like Gwynant, a useful riposte to those who think Eryri is 'less pretty' than the Lakes. Mick led through and made his way up a variation on Pinnacle Wall - the normal two-pitch version of which I've done before. Whether we followed the actual line of the Indirect variant is a moot point, but our version gave some nice climbing in any case. We went direct up the pinnacle on neat pockets, then up a licheny slab before moving right but climbing the arete direct quite delicately on small holds. An awful descent through nightmarish vegetation in the gully near Forestry Buttress (no hint of a path) meant we ran out of time as I had to get back to cook a family dinner. We both ran back down to the car at the far end of the lake.
Routes: Little Cludge (HS 4b:led), Yew Tree Slabs p. 2 (VD:led), Pinnacle Wall Indirect (HS 4b:sec)
Rather like our bushwhacking expedition above Swallow Falls earlier this month, it is very disappointing to see these fine little climbs falling into disuse. I last climbed in Crafnant in 2002 with Tim (M a tiny baby in the cafe below) and remembered the climbs as short, clean and enjoyable. Now, however, the approach path is overgrown and even these good easy routes are not getting much traffic at all. Mick and I left in the early evening, and only had a couple of hours spare, so ploughed quickly up through the woods and eventually hacked out a route over to Two Tier Buttress. I led through thick grass and brambles to get to the clean slabs at the start of Little Cludge. This gives an excellent little pitch which really deserves more attention. Pleasant climbing up slabs to a break, then a steep finish, quite committing and thought-provoking for the grade. A juggy, vertical crack leads via a couple of small ledges to a little flake, then a tricky crux move as the crack steepens to gain superb, huge holds and an escape right to a nasty vegetated finish. From here I continued up the second pitch of Yew Tree Slabs to belay awkwardly within the branches of the ancient yew itself. Beautiful views out over this tranquil valley - like Gwynant, a useful riposte to those who think Eryri is 'less pretty' than the Lakes. Mick led through and made his way up a variation on Pinnacle Wall - the normal two-pitch version of which I've done before. Whether we followed the actual line of the Indirect variant is a moot point, but our version gave some nice climbing in any case. We went direct up the pinnacle on neat pockets, then up a licheny slab before moving right but climbing the arete direct quite delicately on small holds. An awful descent through nightmarish vegetation in the gully near Forestry Buttress (no hint of a path) meant we ran out of time as I had to get back to cook a family dinner. We both ran back down to the car at the far end of the lake.
Sunday, August 18, 2013
Carneddau traverse (Capel Curig-Conwy)
Peaks: Carnedd Llywellyn, Foel Grach, Carnedd Gwenllian, Foel Fras, Drum, Carnedd y Ddelw, Foel Lwyd, Tal y Fan
Range: Carneddau, Eryri
Our short break in Conwy began in heavy rain yesterday, but this gave way to milky sunshine so we all went to Capel Curig for a short walk followed by tea and cake in the cafe. After this, the family drove back to Conwy while I ran back over the Carneddau, starting in Ogwen just outside Capel Curig and heading up the steep access road to Ffynnon Llugwy. Not the most scenic approach to Carnedd Llywellyn, but you gain height quickly and the steep zigzag slopes to Bwlch Eryl Farchog are excellent hard training! From here, I took a direct scrambling line across the ridge above Craig yr Ysfa, then jogged steadily up to the summit of Llywellyn, arriving in a reasonably quick 50 mins from Ogwen. Some mist over the summit as I continued along the ridge northward, most of the climbing already done and the long runnable ridge to look forward to. It's a bit rocky initially over to Foel Grach, of course, hard to get much speed up and rather chilly as the mist descended again. I stopped at the bothy to put on my jacket, then enjoyed the superb onward route - retracing numerous race routes, taking in Carnedd Gwenllian and then Foel Fras as the mist dissipated and the sun shone. Some of my favourite terrain of all at the northern end of the Carneddau, always a pleasure, although the ridge does have a very steep sting in the tail up Foel Lwyd from Bwlch y Ddaefaen. A little dehydrated as I ran along the tiring lumpy ridge to Tal y Fan then down to Hendre: there's no water on this route! Arrived within the walls 2:50 after setting out: fish and chips urgently needed.
Range: Carneddau, Eryri
Our short break in Conwy began in heavy rain yesterday, but this gave way to milky sunshine so we all went to Capel Curig for a short walk followed by tea and cake in the cafe. After this, the family drove back to Conwy while I ran back over the Carneddau, starting in Ogwen just outside Capel Curig and heading up the steep access road to Ffynnon Llugwy. Not the most scenic approach to Carnedd Llywellyn, but you gain height quickly and the steep zigzag slopes to Bwlch Eryl Farchog are excellent hard training! From here, I took a direct scrambling line across the ridge above Craig yr Ysfa, then jogged steadily up to the summit of Llywellyn, arriving in a reasonably quick 50 mins from Ogwen. Some mist over the summit as I continued along the ridge northward, most of the climbing already done and the long runnable ridge to look forward to. It's a bit rocky initially over to Foel Grach, of course, hard to get much speed up and rather chilly as the mist descended again. I stopped at the bothy to put on my jacket, then enjoyed the superb onward route - retracing numerous race routes, taking in Carnedd Gwenllian and then Foel Fras as the mist dissipated and the sun shone. Some of my favourite terrain of all at the northern end of the Carneddau, always a pleasure, although the ridge does have a very steep sting in the tail up Foel Lwyd from Bwlch y Ddaefaen. A little dehydrated as I ran along the tiring lumpy ridge to Tal y Fan then down to Hendre: there's no water on this route! Arrived within the walls 2:50 after setting out: fish and chips urgently needed.
Saturday, August 10, 2013
Aran loop
Peaks: Aran Benllyn, Erw y Ddafad Ddu, Aran Fawddwy, Drosgl
Range: Aran, Eryri
A summer repeat of the Christmas Eve outing Peter and I did last year: with a few refinements to make it into an even better long run. Jez and I left Llanuwchllyn late afternoon, and kept a reasonable pace going on the long but relatively gentle climb up Benllyn (52 mins), following the race route until the scree summit. This really is a perfect training run, as the steep sections never last too long (apart from the final rise). Good views of black shower clouds sweeping over Cader Idris and the Rhinogs as we enjoyed the superb ridge running that leads over the middle peak to Aran Fawddwy's dramatic rock scenery. Although I've been up here many times, it's always been a bit of an 'unlucky' hill for me in terms of views, so it was nice to gaze across to the Berwyns and down to Llyn Lliwbran today. The ridge down to Drosgl was great fun, then steeply down to Llaethnant and the superb Creiglyn Dyfi - for me, one of the finest locations in Wales, remote and atmospheric (one day I'll do the climb that weaves up the lonely cliff above the lake). Another short climb to the little col before we both enjoyed the absolutely superb running descent down Cwm Llwydd and Cwm Croes. Access to this side of the Arans was once, outrageously, banned. We had no desire to run back on the road, so cut back to Llanuwchllyn through a brilliant, though overgrown little path heading north over stream valleys and meadows: dark clouds now enveloping the tops. Around 2.5 hours for the round this time, but much drier underfoot and clearer overhead.
Range: Aran, Eryri
A summer repeat of the Christmas Eve outing Peter and I did last year: with a few refinements to make it into an even better long run. Jez and I left Llanuwchllyn late afternoon, and kept a reasonable pace going on the long but relatively gentle climb up Benllyn (52 mins), following the race route until the scree summit. This really is a perfect training run, as the steep sections never last too long (apart from the final rise). Good views of black shower clouds sweeping over Cader Idris and the Rhinogs as we enjoyed the superb ridge running that leads over the middle peak to Aran Fawddwy's dramatic rock scenery. Although I've been up here many times, it's always been a bit of an 'unlucky' hill for me in terms of views, so it was nice to gaze across to the Berwyns and down to Llyn Lliwbran today. The ridge down to Drosgl was great fun, then steeply down to Llaethnant and the superb Creiglyn Dyfi - for me, one of the finest locations in Wales, remote and atmospheric (one day I'll do the climb that weaves up the lonely cliff above the lake). Another short climb to the little col before we both enjoyed the absolutely superb running descent down Cwm Llwydd and Cwm Croes. Access to this side of the Arans was once, outrageously, banned. We had no desire to run back on the road, so cut back to Llanuwchllyn through a brilliant, though overgrown little path heading north over stream valleys and meadows: dark clouds now enveloping the tops. Around 2.5 hours for the round this time, but much drier underfoot and clearer overhead.
Wednesday, August 07, 2013
Ponderosa fell race
Race: Ponderosa (4m/1000ft)
Time/Position: 28.39 (11th from 109)
One of the most exciting races on the calendar, this is always an unusual yet enjoyable outing. You don't get much time to relax, as the main climb is over in the first ten minutes. I was well off the pace as I crested the top of Cyrn y Brain in just under nine minutes from the Ponderosa - so I only had myself to blame for the fact that the inevitable major delays occurred on the very narrow tracks that weave through the heather on the initial descent. Eventually, when the descent kicks back west above Eglwyseg you get a few chances to overtake. I made one early attempt, clipped a mud bank and ended up lying in the heather, then two chaps face-planted in the first deep bog. After this I picked up a few more places as the paths broaden out, but couldn't quite catch a large group in front.
Time/Position: 28.39 (11th from 109)
One of the most exciting races on the calendar, this is always an unusual yet enjoyable outing. You don't get much time to relax, as the main climb is over in the first ten minutes. I was well off the pace as I crested the top of Cyrn y Brain in just under nine minutes from the Ponderosa - so I only had myself to blame for the fact that the inevitable major delays occurred on the very narrow tracks that weave through the heather on the initial descent. Eventually, when the descent kicks back west above Eglwyseg you get a few chances to overtake. I made one early attempt, clipped a mud bank and ended up lying in the heather, then two chaps face-planted in the first deep bog. After this I picked up a few more places as the paths broaden out, but couldn't quite catch a large group in front.
Tuesday, August 06, 2013
Coed Moel Famau loop
MTB Route: Coed Moel Famau loop (12.2km)
Another attempt to convert M from gamer to outdoor activist. Not particularly successful, as he didn't much enjoy the forest tracks which have a tendency to go up as well as down. But it stayed dry, and the grassy descent we usually run up on Friday is great fun on a mountain bike. From here, we skirted round Loggerheads and M waited at Tafarn y Gelyn while I climbed back to the car park.
Another attempt to convert M from gamer to outdoor activist. Not particularly successful, as he didn't much enjoy the forest tracks which have a tendency to go up as well as down. But it stayed dry, and the grassy descent we usually run up on Friday is great fun on a mountain bike. From here, we skirted round Loggerheads and M waited at Tafarn y Gelyn while I climbed back to the car park.
Sunday, August 04, 2013
North Wales half marathon
Race: North Wales half marathon (Beacons-Sychnant-Conwy Mountain)
Time/Position: 1.27.45 (11th from 341)
A wonderfully varied and scenic loop. I know every inch of this terrain and have run versions of this route several times in training, but I still thought that the idea of weaving it into a formal half marathon is a good one. Sadly, the inconsistency that has characterised the year was a factor again and I really struggled throughout the race: didn't enjoy it as much as I'd hoped. I was barely aware of the event at all, only hearing about it last Monday, but thought that it might be fun, and possible for fell runners to gain a few places on the long climb up Sychnant and over Conwy Mountain. Actually, the exact reverse of this happened: I went reasonably well on the 5/6 mile flat section along the beach and bike path from the Beacons to the Llanfairfechan headland and was in 7th place at this stage. But I began to struggle as soon as the road kicked up towards Penmaenmawr and that was game over really: the long climb through Dwygyfylchi over Sychnant and the 'fell race' style section up Conwy Mountain was just a case of hanging on, certainly not the anticipated romp up steepish terrain. The paths over the mountain were all very familiar to me, and give lovely views over mountain and sea. I perked up a bit on the descent and caught the three runners who'd passed me on Sychnant as we went through Cadnant Park in Conwy and down to Marine Drive. Then I blew again, needing a gel - but hadn't bothered to pack anything. Just hanging on for the flat section through the marina and back along the soft, energy-draining beach sand.
Time/Position: 1.27.45 (11th from 341)
A wonderfully varied and scenic loop. I know every inch of this terrain and have run versions of this route several times in training, but I still thought that the idea of weaving it into a formal half marathon is a good one. Sadly, the inconsistency that has characterised the year was a factor again and I really struggled throughout the race: didn't enjoy it as much as I'd hoped. I was barely aware of the event at all, only hearing about it last Monday, but thought that it might be fun, and possible for fell runners to gain a few places on the long climb up Sychnant and over Conwy Mountain. Actually, the exact reverse of this happened: I went reasonably well on the 5/6 mile flat section along the beach and bike path from the Beacons to the Llanfairfechan headland and was in 7th place at this stage. But I began to struggle as soon as the road kicked up towards Penmaenmawr and that was game over really: the long climb through Dwygyfylchi over Sychnant and the 'fell race' style section up Conwy Mountain was just a case of hanging on, certainly not the anticipated romp up steepish terrain. The paths over the mountain were all very familiar to me, and give lovely views over mountain and sea. I perked up a bit on the descent and caught the three runners who'd passed me on Sychnant as we went through Cadnant Park in Conwy and down to Marine Drive. Then I blew again, needing a gel - but hadn't bothered to pack anything. Just hanging on for the flat section through the marina and back along the soft, energy-draining beach sand.
Friday, August 02, 2013
Foel Goch scrambles
Peak/Crag: Creigiau Gleision/Foel Goch
Route: Needle's Eye (North) Arete (M:led p.1,2,3,4)
This crag is an atmospheric and neglected place with wonderful views into the jaws of Ogwen and down Nant Ffrancon. I'd been up here for the neighbouring South Arete before, but after doing Traditional Route above Betws this morning, the rain clouds wreathing Siabod cleared and it seemed like a good idea to bolt on a mountain outing to the day. John is still very new to all this, and is leaving the country soon anyway, so a long scramble with good views was in order. We ploughed up the steep hillside via the shallow scree couloir in 20 minutes, running where possible. The broad gully then gives access to the tremendous rock architecture which characterises this crag: very much a place for the mountaineer, with this route in particular having a distinctly Alpine flavour. We traversed right to avoid a wet slab, then crept rightwards along an exposed ledge to the North Arete itself. We roped up here, and I led round the bulging wall, an easy traverse, to gain a vegetated and insecure grassy runnel which led steeply up to regain the arete at an exposed notch. Great views over the gully to Tryfan. After bringing John up, I led a short second pitch up a slab to the sharp arete itself, gaining the 'Needle's eye' - a perfect thread belay that it seemed rude not to use. I took the next section direct, up a steep crack (more like easy climbing than scrambling) and dodgy blocks to a flake then the top of a gendarme. After another tricky but very short pitch, the route breaks up into a series of pinnacles. We took the rope off and I was pleasantly surprised by the continuation: taking all the pinnacles direct on good rock. Very windy, but superb clarity of light as the rain clouds dissipated completely: deep blue skies and fluffy clouds. We ran to the summit of Foel Goch, then plunged down to Bwlch y Brecan to gain superb, exhilarating running down the spur separating Cwm Bual from Cwm Perfedd. This ends in a very steep nose which gives uncomfortable but very fast downhill running to the old road.
Route: Needle's Eye (North) Arete (M:led p.1,2,3,4)
This crag is an atmospheric and neglected place with wonderful views into the jaws of Ogwen and down Nant Ffrancon. I'd been up here for the neighbouring South Arete before, but after doing Traditional Route above Betws this morning, the rain clouds wreathing Siabod cleared and it seemed like a good idea to bolt on a mountain outing to the day. John is still very new to all this, and is leaving the country soon anyway, so a long scramble with good views was in order. We ploughed up the steep hillside via the shallow scree couloir in 20 minutes, running where possible. The broad gully then gives access to the tremendous rock architecture which characterises this crag: very much a place for the mountaineer, with this route in particular having a distinctly Alpine flavour. We traversed right to avoid a wet slab, then crept rightwards along an exposed ledge to the North Arete itself. We roped up here, and I led round the bulging wall, an easy traverse, to gain a vegetated and insecure grassy runnel which led steeply up to regain the arete at an exposed notch. Great views over the gully to Tryfan. After bringing John up, I led a short second pitch up a slab to the sharp arete itself, gaining the 'Needle's eye' - a perfect thread belay that it seemed rude not to use. I took the next section direct, up a steep crack (more like easy climbing than scrambling) and dodgy blocks to a flake then the top of a gendarme. After another tricky but very short pitch, the route breaks up into a series of pinnacles. We took the rope off and I was pleasantly surprised by the continuation: taking all the pinnacles direct on good rock. Very windy, but superb clarity of light as the rain clouds dissipated completely: deep blue skies and fluffy clouds. We ran to the summit of Foel Goch, then plunged down to Bwlch y Brecan to gain superb, exhilarating running down the spur separating Cwm Bual from Cwm Perfedd. This ends in a very steep nose which gives uncomfortable but very fast downhill running to the old road.
Swallow Falls Buttress climbing
Crag: Craig Rhaeadr Ewynnol, Betws y Coed
Route: Traditional Route (S:led p.1,2,3,4)
This climb is being lost to the vegetation: a real shame, as it is a nice route in the mould of Aberglaslyn's better known Canyon Rib, and would benefit from more traffic. It will always be an esoteric outing because of its location, but the short pitches and modest standard made it an ideal route to take novice John up - particularly because some heavy showers had just swept across the region and were still anchored over the mountains. We parked at Ty Hyll and enjoyed a delightful amble along the River Lledr with just the odd spot of light drizzle. After passing Swallow Falls, we bushwhacked up to the start of the route - fairly easy to find, but unpleasant amounts of mud and brambles. It was clearly pretty dirty but seemed dryish, and we'd come all this way, so I led off up the coffin-shaped block to 'have a look'. A few moves gained the top of the block, then a step to a platform led to another crack. This had good handholds but mossy, insecure and overgrown footholds on the right wall. The second pitch took a short, clean crack to a tricky move to gain some big finishing holds. The views over the valley to Swallow Falls just get better, with a lovely atmosphere created by the rush of the water. The third pitch was easy up two linked cracks, a weakness in the wall, but all the holds and nut placements needed excavation - it was feeling like a first ascent by now. All very enjoyable and gentle, though, and John was able to follow after a bit of thought. I sidled down the recess to gain the original finish, slightly runout to a flake, then good climbing up a broad groove in a nice position to the woods on top: great views across to the tourists at the Falls, who were now watching us with interest. The weather was starting to clear as we descended (too early initially - an Indiana Jones-style nightmare as a wall collapsed beneath my feet and the brambles threatened to bury us). The sun came out as we sauntered back along the Lledr, so I thought we should make the day into a two-parter. After lunch in Capel, we drove down the old Nant Ffrancon road intent on a mountaineering afternoon - but that seems to warrant a separate entry!
Route: Traditional Route (S:led p.1,2,3,4)
This climb is being lost to the vegetation: a real shame, as it is a nice route in the mould of Aberglaslyn's better known Canyon Rib, and would benefit from more traffic. It will always be an esoteric outing because of its location, but the short pitches and modest standard made it an ideal route to take novice John up - particularly because some heavy showers had just swept across the region and were still anchored over the mountains. We parked at Ty Hyll and enjoyed a delightful amble along the River Lledr with just the odd spot of light drizzle. After passing Swallow Falls, we bushwhacked up to the start of the route - fairly easy to find, but unpleasant amounts of mud and brambles. It was clearly pretty dirty but seemed dryish, and we'd come all this way, so I led off up the coffin-shaped block to 'have a look'. A few moves gained the top of the block, then a step to a platform led to another crack. This had good handholds but mossy, insecure and overgrown footholds on the right wall. The second pitch took a short, clean crack to a tricky move to gain some big finishing holds. The views over the valley to Swallow Falls just get better, with a lovely atmosphere created by the rush of the water. The third pitch was easy up two linked cracks, a weakness in the wall, but all the holds and nut placements needed excavation - it was feeling like a first ascent by now. All very enjoyable and gentle, though, and John was able to follow after a bit of thought. I sidled down the recess to gain the original finish, slightly runout to a flake, then good climbing up a broad groove in a nice position to the woods on top: great views across to the tourists at the Falls, who were now watching us with interest. The weather was starting to clear as we descended (too early initially - an Indiana Jones-style nightmare as a wall collapsed beneath my feet and the brambles threatened to bury us). The sun came out as we sauntered back along the Lledr, so I thought we should make the day into a two-parter. After lunch in Capel, we drove down the old Nant Ffrancon road intent on a mountaineering afternoon - but that seems to warrant a separate entry!
Thursday, August 01, 2013
Deeside Off-Road Race
Race: Deeside Off-Road Grand Prix Race 3 (4.8m)
Time/Position: 27.01
Quite a bit quicker than the first two races in the series, but no different in terms of position, so there may have been some small tweaks to the course. I have been feeling a little quicker in the last two weeks, though, so concentrated on trying to stay with in-form Jez. Yet again, the race was dominated by Veterans, but I needed a reasonable finishing position as I will be away for the fourth and final race next month. Jez pulled away a bit on the fields, while I managed to pull back on the tarmac. It all came down to a fun sprint finish, which I inevitably lost!
Time/Position: 27.01
Quite a bit quicker than the first two races in the series, but no different in terms of position, so there may have been some small tweaks to the course. I have been feeling a little quicker in the last two weeks, though, so concentrated on trying to stay with in-form Jez. Yet again, the race was dominated by Veterans, but I needed a reasonable finishing position as I will be away for the fourth and final race next month. Jez pulled away a bit on the fields, while I managed to pull back on the tarmac. It all came down to a fun sprint finish, which I inevitably lost!
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