Bethesda hills

Peaks: Moel Faban, Llefn, Gyrn, Moel Wnion, Drosgl, Gyrn Wigau

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

Like most people, I tend to neglect this side of the Carneddau in favour of the higher peaks. I remember doing the old Moel Wnion race route from Rachub nearly 20 years ago, but apart from that the tops of the first few little hills have rarely been visited. They are Bethesda's home hills, and I was up Moel Faban from the central car park in less than 20 minutes: strong winds and grim conditions higher up, so this was a good choice. Over the lumps of Llefn and the impressive outcrop of Gyrn to gain the standard path up Wnion with a lovely tailwind. That became a challenging crosswind for the ancient Llwybr Aryg track which skirts and contours the higher mountain of Drosgl. No real path to the summit, so I ploughed up through the boulders, mist flirting with the top, then plummeted down towards Gyrn Wigau. From here, a superb and exhilarating path weaves down to Gerlan far below: great views of the high Carneddau. A nice tour of the different parts of Bethesda (there aren't many more interesting towns) by doing it this way too: back down to the central car park through the hilly maze of little streets (1.41 for the 14k/1000m round).

Round the Walls

Race: Round the Walls

Time/Position: 25.48 (34th from 531 [1st V50])

A great relief to be back racing after my longest lay-off since E was born in 2004! By far my worst ever finishing position at the Walls race (perhaps the 12th or 13th time I've done it, 50th anniversary race this year) although that seemed inevitable as I haven't raced or done any speed sessions since developing glandular fever after London in October. I have finished as high as 8th in the past, but just tried to maintain a steady pace today - only the second time I have ever done it anticlockwise. In fact, this was possibly the best and most satisfying of the many different route variations over the years: a proper lap of the racecourse (surprisingly dryish), then east round the perimeter Deeside bike path to gain the walls on Lower Bridge Street. I had no idea how I would feel so took it very steady before picking it up just a little as we crossed Northgate: in fact my HR stayed relatively low throughout, which is very promising after the travails of the last few months - finishing first V50 was pure fluke, however. Morgan had a superb debut at his first ever proper race, finishing in the top 100, so a good day all round.

Carneddau south

Peaks: Pen yr Ole Wen, Carnedd Dafydd

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

A very rapid thaw, even by Welsh standards, with almost all snow gone and gale-force south-westerlies raking the tops. However, this was still another trip up new peaks for M, around a little loop I have done many times over several decades. A predictably wet slog up from Glan Dena, but then nicely clearing weather with spectacular cloudbursts as we took the little scramble above Cwm Lloer. Very windy along the ridge, with a painful hail shower, but great to be up here with the young man. Always awkward to descend from Dafydd to Cwm Lloer but we took a great line today and the shores of Ffynnon Lloer have always ranked highly in my list of favourite spots. Nicely sheltered too. 

Glyderau west

Peaks: Y Garn, Foel Goch, Mynydd Perfedd, Carnedd y Filiast

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

I missed the best of the weather yesterday, and did so again today: the early bird did not catch the worm. Still, this superb blocking-high cold snap demands some attention, so I set off up the very icy track to Idwal first thing, the peaks fully draped in white and nicely defined against a pale blue sky. I've been lucky enough to be up here in similar conditions many times over the years, and memories flooded back, especially of the winter climbs at the back of the cwm. Nothing like that planned today (the snow is still unconsolidated and the ice thin anyway), and my compromised physical condition still craves steep upward movement (yet baulks at fast running) for some reason, so the north-east (banana) ridge of Y Garn beckoned. This was superb, quite icy, some snow showers tracking in up Nant Ffrancon from Anglesey - nicely atmospheric with good snow cover. I put my kahtoolas on and adopted a steady uphill pace. I have done gate to summit in 28 minutes in the past, but was inevitably more pedestrian today. Not too shabby though, and I really enjoyed the hard-packed snow towards the top, and the bitterly cold summit shrouded in an icy mist. No place to linger, so I trotted down and along to Foel Goch in some tiring drifts. The weather started to clear as I crossed the deep dip and tiring thick snow up to Perfedd. Some sunshine now, and the mist peeled off Elidir as the sun lit the top rocks of Carnedd y Filiast: wonderful views, clearing in all directions. So far, so very good, but the descent from Filiast proved awkward under a thick blanket of snow. Getting to Ogwen from here is OK normally, but the path is narrow and hard to locate at the best of times. Today it was impossible, and I trawled through the nasty boulder fields for a long time, a very unpleasant 45 minutes down to Ogwen. I have had many unpleasant descents in my time, but this was a bad one. From the old Nant Ffrancon road I was in no state to run back to Ogwen Cottage so again resumed the now familiar fast walk, and it was icy throughout anyway. Crystal clear cloudless skies as I enjoyed a cup of tea and a pasty at the cottage, perfect winter conditions.

Carneddau north

Peaks: Llwytmor Bach, Yr Orsedd, Foel Ganol

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

A significant cold snap, long-lasting by the standards of recent years, and even recalling 2010 at times. As such, this was not the most sensible of choices today, due to the untracked nature of the ground and numerous drifts higher up, although time was limited so I couldn't stray too far from Conwy. I set off from the A55 at my now familiar fast walking pace, health still compromised. I would have done this anyway, however, as the road was streaked with black ice - and the path to the falls was similar in places. As a result, I decided against the awkward traverse above the falls, given the likelihood of ice, and ploughed instead straight up the fence - an extremely steep climb. Higher up, the wind was bitter - close to -20 windchill according to the mountain forecast. Around the subpeak of Llwytmor Bach the snow had drifted and this route was obviously not tracked out. I concluded a retreat to Cwm Anafon was the only realistic option, and that was hard enough, soft drifts throughout. I took a shallow gully to the top of Yr Orsedd, a fine place to be in these conditions (this ridge is too low and too close to the sea to hold much snow in normal circumstances). The rest of the fairly narrow ridge down to Foel Ganol was a delight, with an Alpine flavour as the sun came out, rare to have deep snow here, and great views across to Anglesey in front. Behind, Cwm Anafon looked menacing (although the weather infuriatingly cleared later on). From the col, I ploughed down to the tarmac and back down to Aber. 

Great End/Glaramara

Peaks: Great End, Allen Crags, Glaramara

Area: Borrowdale, Lake District

The weather is getting colder: temperatures plummeted overnight, and it seemed a good idea to get above the snowline today, which was high. Gone was the cloud of the last two days: crystal clear and bitterly cold as I drove down towards Seathwaite, one of the finest spots in the Lakes. I was vaguely thinking of going up Gable via Base Brown, but in the event I missed the path and instead headed up the main valley towards Stockley bridge. From here, one path goes up to Styhead Tarn (I remember going up here to climb on Gable many years ago). I took the Grains Gill path towards Great End, which looms superbly ahead, staying in view throughout. It is famous for its winter gullies and was snow-covered today. Even better, as far as I can remember I have never been up it before. So it turned into the logical objective for the day. Grains Gill narrows towards the top and becomes a little gorge (Ruddy Gill). Some tricky verglas required caution. At the top, below Great End, I joined the familiar path up to Esk Hause (painful memories of the brutal climax of the Wasdale Fell race). At Esk Hause, the snow cover became thicker, lending a superb Alpine ambience to the route up the Cove. It took me a little while to realise this was the familiar route up Scafell Pike, it just seemed so different in the snow. I had no intention of continuing up the Pike today, so branched off at the col to take in the plateau-like summit of Great End. Superb conditions, nicely snow covered with deep blue skies, and I had it all to myself. Bowfell, Scafell Pike and Gable all glistening white. I trotted back to Esk Hause with the sun dazzling over Esk Pike and Bowfell, then took the long, lumpy continuation ridge over Glaramara. Again, I have done this hill before but many years ago (from Langstrath, I think). The first peak of Allen Crags is reached very quickly, but the rest is a surprisingly long haul over multiple false summits. It is a little like the Glyder ridge at the Capel end, just when you think it's over, it kicks up again. All delightful though, with little frozen tarns dotted around rock outcrops (hardly any snow at this level). The top of Glaramara is equally complex, with numerous mini summits dotted around. I located the highpoint and then began the descent to Seathwaite down frozen turf and very icy north-facing slopes. I soon found myself above Combe Gill, too far north, descending to Seatoller. So I corrected myself and contoured round to embark on the extremely steep and pathless direct descent to Seathwaite. Fabulous views to Gable and Skiddaw were some distraction, but this was a very steep descent, even by my standards. Tricky to regain the base of the valley. A very encouraging three days: although I didn't really run, I did move quickly with some light jogging, and felt no ill-effects although remaining conscious the virus is still with me. Around 3500m of ascent, so things can't possibly be too bad.

Honister loop

Peaks: Dale Head, Hindscarth, Robinson, Fleetwith Pike

Area: Borrowdale/Buttermere, Lake District

This outing brought back happy memories of the legendary OMM of 2008, where we took the same route over the Dale Head ridge in 70mph winds and biblical rain, linking arms to avoid being blown over. Later, my tent flew away from the Buttermere camp (literally), cars floated downstream, and the abandoned event featured extensively on the BBC ('2000 runners unaccounted for'). The route up Dale Head was also familiar to me from the Borrowdale fell race, which I also did a long time ago - 2009 maybe? It was very cold at Honister, always a rather bleak spot, but this is a very quick route onto the summits - around 24 minutes from pass to summit. Thick hoar frost and a bitter wind, but signs of a clearance in the weather, which got better for the trot over to Hindscarth (which is set back from the true ridge line). Great views in clearing weather, down to Newlands and across to Pillar and Gable. Wonderful to be up here feeling relatively normal again (although still not able to properly run, I never felt especially tired and moved briskly throughout - albeit far slower than the last time I was here, the Anniverary Waltz fell race in 2016, which remains probably my best performance in Lakeland). I took the steep short cut direct to the flat summit of Robinson and its great views over Grasmoor and the Solway Firth. I could clearly see Criffel in Dumfries, which we ran up three years ago. I took a steep, obscure but direct descent down to Buttermere, then jogged up to Gatesgarth with the ridge of Fleetwith Pike looms above. As with Blencathra yesterday, I have only been up the Pike once, a strange omission as it is another fine mountain. I adopted the now familiar rapid uphill walk, a function of my glandular fever: entirely comfortable throughout. The ridge is superb, and rather like Hall's Fell yesterday leads in an elegant beeline to the summit with a little mild scrambling towards the top: around 32 minutes, which was quite pleasing given fitness levels and the stage of the day. The summit of Fleetwith Pike is one of the best spots in the Lakes, superb views over Buttermere and across to the ridge from Haystacks. Lots of memories of different races and mountain marathons came flooding back. A short jog down the continuation traverse line (with some sunshine) led down to the Dubs quarry road and a toastie at the Honister cafe. Later, a little mountain bike outing. And after that, a run from the YHA to the top of Castle Crag. I couldn't resist the latter, as it features as a short fell race: it is something like a 3k blast (or less) along the banks of the Derwent to the steep climb to the tiny summit, which occupies a famously beautiful spot above the Jaws of Borrowdale. In my compromised state of health (and after this morning's outing) it took me 20 minutes from the door of the hostel to the summit of Castle Crag. A wonderful few minutes enjoying the view and ambience before ambling back to relax at the hostel with a pint of Loweswater Gold.

Blencathra

Peak: Blencathra

Area: Northern Lakes

Arguably the most impressive mountain in the Lakes, so it is remarkable that I've only been up Blencathra once before, way back in the mid 90s. I seem to remember we went up Sharp Edge and down Hall's Fell that day. The weather was turning increasingly wintry as I set off from the edge of Threlkeld in the early afternoon after an easy drive up. The path headed up a little stream valley before contouring east to join the base of Hall's Fell ridge, which leads in a near-perfect beeline for the summit, definitely one of the UK's most direct ascents. I am still barely able to run, no real improvement, but moving quickly uphill (and moving quickly in the hills generally) is absolutely no problem. So this was perfect: it climbs at least 600m in 2k and doesn't really let up in steepness. Towards the top, it gets a little rocky and this was the exact point that thick hoar frost kicked in, making life a little tricky for the top section, some surprisingly awkward little slabs and icy rock walls. All good fun, and it finishes bang on the summit (41 minutes). Thick mist, very cold, light snow cover, so I evacuated down the west ridge immediately. This leads comfortably over the shoulder of Blease Fell - where the mist cleared to views over Keswick and Derwent Water - and down equally comfortable zigzags to get back to the stream valley above Threlkeld. Felt good throughout - around 1.36 for the loop. Drove down Borrowdale at dusk via a little side-trip to the Bowderstone: atmospheric. 

Penanmen loop

Peaks: Y Ro Wen

Area: Moelwynion, Eryri

Day two of the Strike: Wales v Iran (with pint and full breakfast) in the morning, so just time for this little outing as the light began to fade. My body craves upward movement, and struggles going downhill, so I set off at a fast walking pace from Dolwyddelan and located the main track that leads all the way to the top of Y Ro Wen. I have previously done this from the Penmachno side, but this is a lot more civilised and was ideal today. Great views from the summit (36 minutes from village) in the low winter light, huge clouds over the Moelwynion and Siabod looming across the valley. Very uncomfortable descent, partly because of my current issues, partly because Sarn Helen is currently buried under felled conifers. I found it on instinct after hurdling felled trees and then located myself with Carreg Alltrem, the classic crag, before descending Cwm Penanmen in a beeline back to the village. Refuelled on fish and chips and 'Wal Goch 58' in Conwy.

Windgather-Goyt Valley

I did the Shining Tor fell race a few years ago, and also did a short version of this outing in abysmal weather with Vic one new year. It seemed a good choice today, the first day of the latest strike. I parked at the Cat and Fiddle and set off under glowering skies, drizzle and low cloud. An easy jog and climb leads to the trig on Shining Tor, and then a long descent on very civilised paving slabs leads to Pym Chair. From here, a minor road leads to Windgather, where I've done a fair amount of climbing over the years. This was all great - the only issue being my spiking heart rate, feeling a pale imitation of my usual self, although never really struggling or especially tired. All very weird, as the entire illness has been. I then dropped down through the woods around Taxal Edge before kinking back north to join the Midshires way. Given the health issues, the return leg was a mix of fast walking and jogging above the Fernlee and Erwood reservoirs. Above this, entirely new ground for me as the tiny road climbs the upper Goyt Valley towards Derbyshire Bridge. This would have all been superb running terrain, if only I could run! Still, I moved fairly quickly and got back to the car two hours after starting: 19k and around 600m, a shorter version of the Windgather fell race, which I've never got round to doing.

Berwyn jog

Peaks: Vivod, Moel Fferna

Area: Berwyn

Still suffering from lingering glandular fever, and now with an infected ankle (after cutting it a week ago descending the Famau gully). That said, this outing showed some promise, glimmers of improvement. In particular, there doesn't seem any issue with climbs, in fact the steeper the better. My legs feel superbly well rested, of course, and my HR wasn't as high today as it has been recently. I took the climb up Vivod from Glyndyfrdwy that I had failed to find (but descended) last month. The weather was superb - a cold, autumnal morning with mist in the Dee Valley. At the top of the track, I missed the overgrown path leading to the main traverse path but ploughing through the bracken wasn't too bad. Up to the top of Vivod, and then along the North Berwyn Way all the way to Moel Fferna, around 5k of undulating terrain. Again, I felt better than I have done recently, and my HR was highish but stable. From Moel Fferna's summit, the usual extensive views over Berwyn. It is a little tricky to descend to Nant y Pandy: thick bracken and gorse all around. It is short-lived though, and I gained the main track down the valley fairly quickly. Good running down this to a rough tarmac road that leads back to Glyndyfrdwy.

Tal y Fan indirect

Peaks: Foel Lwyd, Tal y Fan

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

Diagnosed with glandular fever over a month ago, ergo my longest ever lay-off from racing, and indeed any real effort. This is incredibly frustrating, as I was in pretty good form, but being positive I have at least been able to get out for gentle outings, so it's a little better than being injured. This was my longest and most ambitious outing for over a month, only 15k/750m. The illness has been very mild but also very slow-burning (infuriatingly) so I took this cautiously, conscious of my HR as I climbed up the steep road out of Rowen towards the 'grit bin'. As ever, steep climbs are much more comfortable than road running, and my heart-rate stayed down. It was a stunning autumn morning: crystal clear. Hard work up to Bwlch y Ddaefaen, but then easier again for the steep climb from the bwlch up Foel Lwyd. I last did this, massively dehydrated, with Peter on our 'sea to sea' epic from Porthmadog to Conwy. The ridge to Tal y Fan and beyond is always awkward, rocky and lumpy throughout, but then I really enjoyed the grassy descent to Llangelynin old church: HR far too high, but it didn't actually feel hard. A superb ancient bridleway, new to me, plunges down from the chapel to the ancient woodland above Tyddyn Mawr: wet and rocky.

Vivod

Peaks: Vivod

Area: Berwyn

Just a leg stretcher after London, in the knowledge that it's not easy to locate the paths on the Dee Valley side of the Berwyn. That was indeed the case, and the lane leading to the bridleway up Vivod from Glyndyfrdwy is not even marked. In the end, I marched through the village and headed up the valley below Moel Fferna. This merges to the little lane that crests the main Berwyn ridge, an ideal mode of ascent. From here I headed east over Bwlch y Clawdd to Vivod, then down the way I had intended to go up!

London Marathon

Race: London Marathon

Time/Position: 2.54.28 (1174 from 42,000 [64th V50])

After such a wonderful race last year, a perfect 'negative split' experience in my 10th London Marathon, this - my 11th London - was rather different. Not a disaster, by any means, and I did execute my race plan fairly well. That basic plan was to go through half in 1.25 and have a shot at 2.50 if I felt good, but knock it back a bit if 2.50 seemed unrealistic. After a relaxed first couple of miles, I upped the pace as we reached the merge point in Woolwich. From here to Cutty Sark my pace was a little too quick, in retrospect, at around 3.50 per km (40.13 at 10k, although that was because of the slow start). Given my usual lack of specific training (only two proper long runs, and both of those slow) it was obvious that I would pay for this later: there was no realistic way I could hold it over the last 10k given the lack of long runs in training. The key to London, for me at least, is to be crossing Tower Bridge in comfort: this really should be an exhilarating highlight, and if it isn't, you have a problem. To an extent, it was again this year, but I did begin to fade after going through half in 1.25.31. Around the Isle of Dogs I was definitely beginning to tire, and sensed my pace dropping. I felt reasonably confident that I could hold it together if I knocked it back slightly and abandoned 2.50, so did this and managed to keep things going a little more slowly along the Embankment. This was all in stark contrast to last year, when I got progressively quicker throughout the race and ran the last 10k in exactly 40 minutes. All the crowds back again this year, back to the usual atmosphere, and the weather was nicely cool again - although the sun just started to peek through as I finished (good timing, as it then got quite warm). A successful 14 days of running - kicked off by the Vyrnwy half, which put me joint 5th in the all-time V50 north Wales rankings, then the Farndon 10k with put me 10th (also currently 10th for 5 mile and 5th for 5k).

Brecon Beacons

Peaks: Corn Du, Pen y Fan

Area: Brecon Beacons

A perfect way to break the journey down to Cardiff with M, this short outing from the Storey Arms ticked off another iconic Welsh peak for the young man. I've been up Pen y Fan at least four times previously, but never from this side - it has always been from more interesting directions before, at least two of these have been during races (Pen y Fan and the tough AL Brecon Beacons race) and a couple of hillwalks from the northern valleys. After an embarrassing error in a conifer forest, we ploughed up the giant track which leads from Pont ar Daf up the featureless western slopes. This is quick and direct but not exactly inspiring, although it improved at the col, with a short, steep climb up sandstone shelves to Corn Du, which we had to ourselves. It was around 4pm, quite cold and windy, with mist just above the summits. Nice views down to the Bristol Channel and across to the Carmarthen Fan. We nipped across to Pen y Fan where we had a snack enjoying the superb view down to Brecon and across to Cribyn: memories of various races hereabouts. The descent was very quick, and we continued refreshed down to Cardiff.

Farndon 10k

Race: Farndon 10k

Time/Position: 35.54 (6th from 351 [1st V50])

A last-minute decision to do this as a final sharpener before London, hoping that decent recent form would allow me to dip under 36 for the first time in a few years. It did, but only just, and I was rather disappointed in the performance, being unable to hold my early pace. I was hanging on for the entire middle section of the race, essentially, all very different to Vyrnwy last week. I went off a little too fast, perhaps, and the positions were sorted within a mile. There was no way I could catch the two in front, and I ran the entire race in isolation, again unlike last week. I have never found it a particularly fast course, and don't enjoy the uphill drags, regardless of how mild they are. Around 6k I felt I might blow completely but just about held it together and had a slightly better finish. I was rarely comfortable, however, and it didn't feel like a good performance (time puts me 10th V50 in the all-time north Wales rankings).

Vyrnwy half marathon

Race: Vyrnwy half marathon

Time/Position: 1.18.04 (35th from 825 [1st V50])

I was convinced that I had a decent time in me this year, despite the six consecutive disappointing 80 minute half marathons I've run since entering my 50s. At times, that had looked like a ceiling, but today I felt strong and controlled throughout - and thoroughly enjoyed it. I ran 1.18.25 the last time I did the event in 2011 so it was really pleasing to go slightly quicker than that today. More importantly, it's also one of the most satisfying races around, in a landscape that I always enjoy: I spent a fortnight working in Llanwddyn in the 90s. It was also nice to go with Dave and Kathryn today, with the event a little more commercial than it used to be! The uphill start is fine, and actually forces you to think hard about pacing. After the dam I just set a nice 6 minute mile pace, and a good group of around eight formed. A slight headwind so it would have been nice to swap leads, but three of them later thanked me for my solid pace setting! The great thing about Vyrnwy is the way the road hugs the shore, even at the wilder far end, and I accepted I was on a decent day at the turn around - this is always a great feeling, not all that common, and something to be savoured as you power along in a good strong group. Almost certainly a negative split, as you know you have a very fast final mile to look forward to after the dam. Felt pretty good, and won my category (joint 5th in the all-time north Wales V50 rankings).

King John's Castle

Race: King John's Castle fell race

Time/Position: 39.49 (3rd from 42)

I came second at this race when it was run clockwise a few years ago but only had vague memories of doing it this way round, anticlockwise - apparently the standard direction for the race. Whatever, it is definitely easier this way round and I really enjoyed the outing, one of several different options this weekend. I've over-raced recently, so deliberately took it fairly easy initially, up the long climb from the village up towards Moel Llanfair. Once at the saddle between Llanfair and Gyw, most of the hard work is done. This has always been my favourite part of the Clwydians, and I pelted down the track below Llanfair and kept a slow but steady pace going up to the top of Moel y Plas, moving into third place. I took the circuitous descent rather than the direct and found it better, less awkward. Fast running down the track to the final cross-country section, which is something of a sting in the tail as the terrain is tricky and overgrown through meadows, copses, nettles and little limestone walls. 

Y Garn

Peaks: Y Garn

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

Another iconic Welsh peak ticked off for M, adding to his growing list. Always a huge pleasure to introduce the young man to a new hill - he would be a couple of years older than me on my first time up Y Garn, but pretty close really. The long period of high pressure is now over, but low cloud seemed to be lifting a bit as we walked round the shores of Idwal. Then it was the familiar haul below Twll Ddu to Llyn y Cwn, with mist clearing a little. The easy slopes to the top were also misty but there was a spectacular clearance on the way down the NE ridge: a nice reward with the cloud parting and views of Idwal and Ogwen Cottage.

Wirral MT Series, Royden Park

Race: Wirral MT Series (Royden Park)

Time/Position: 30.28 (19th from 359 [2nd V50])

Probably the hardest and most varied of the four Wirral multi-terrain fixtures - I missed this last year but did the other three. I ran 50 seconds quicker than this in 2015, with terrible DOMS following the Ben Nevis race. I do wonder whether it was a tad shorter then, without the first tiny field perhaps, as I went off pretty hard on the first lap (which heads up to the awkward little sandstone ridge above Thurstaston, lots of rocky steps, then drops down to a flat sprint through the woods). Started to blow on the second lap, admittedly, but perked up in the woods and finished three seconds behind the first V50, couldn't quite catch him.