Termessos/Guluk Dagi

The wind in Egirdir forced a return to Antalya a day earlier than planned. Not a problem though, as there are plenty of interesting day-trip options. After much consideration, I decided Termessos would work best - but not as part of a £100 tour! Instead, I headed back to the Otogar and got a cramped dolmus to Kortukeli, asking the driver to drop me off by the Termessos road junction. The weather was perfect - although still very windy, sunny, very clear, but cool. It is a 9k uphill haul to even gain the lowest point of the ruins, and without a car I had to walk. This worked well though, as it was the most practical way to get into the mouthwatering mountains that are so obvious from Antalya. The road was extremely quiet, no more than 2 or 3 cars passed. I jogged small sections and reached the ruins in reasonable time, heading through the collonaded street to the spectacular Pisidian theatre, in an unbelievable location at the top of the Gulluk Dagi plateau (just over 1000m). Above, an impressive crag, then the valleys stretching down to the coast. An incredible place, and I had it to myself. Near the agora, I saw a superb black-eared wheatear (and lower down a semi-collared flycatcher). I jogged all the way down, stopping at a little food shack for wonderful home made tarhana soup and cay. At the junction, I stuck out my arm and the first dolmus took me back to Antalya.

Sivri Tepe

Peaks: Sivri Tepe (1719m)

Area: Isparta/Lake District, Turkey

A classic 'signature peak' that dominates the lakeside town of Egirdir, where I was staying. Sivri Tepe translates as 'pointed spire', which is an apt description, albeit hugely exaggerated when approached from the other side (which is the only real route up). I arrived in Egirdir, the heart of the Turkish lake district yesterday afternoon after a really enjoyable eight hour journey from Goreme, very scenic after the big city of Konya. The lakes are all enormous, and there are some very big mountains in this area. Sivri Tepe is certainly not one of them, but it was the only realistic option without a car (and at this time of year). The wind throughout was remarkable - very strong crosswinds continually raking the narrow peninsula on which I was staying. Sadly, overnight the weather generally deteriorated and I had a very tight itinerary in the morning, with my next bus to Antalya leaving at midday. After breakfast at the top of Pension Fulya with stunning views over the Egirdir lake in all directions, I commenced battle with the crosswinds. I jogged up the road, flat at first, and then up towards the village of Akpinar. A continuous series of heavy showers barreled in from the south-west, some quite torrential. At times, they were of sleet and hail although there were also occasional easings. At Akpinar, the route veered north along the St Paul trail, a new long-distance path. This helped but the path was boggy and indistinct in places. I passed a couple of old shepherds (possibly Yoruks - this being something of a stronghold for them) sheltering under trees, and higher up branched off towards the peak itself - still impressive from this southerly angle. The remaining path was narrow and occasionally indistinct but became clearer for the final ascent up slabby limestone and scree. At a vague neck, the wind howled through: very strong, upward progress to the summit a real struggle particularly as a hailstorm blew in at the same time. However, I did get views from the summit down to Egirdir and the vast lake: memorable in this weather, my face raked with the hail. I didn't hang around, and scampered down: once beyond the vague neck/col the wind eased, as did the hail, and the rest of the descent down to the shepherds huts was easier although boggy, with annoying cloying mud, reminded me of the Wychavon Way ultra! It continued soggy, so I took a diversion to a gravel track. This led to Akinpar, after which a clap of thunder and a very black cloud sent me running back at 4 minute kilometre pace all the way back to Egirdir. Once back on the peninsula, the sun came out! I just had time for a shower and a borek/ayran lunch before getting the midday bus to Antalya.

Capaddocian valleys

After arriving in Goreme around 2.30am yesterday morning, I had got my bearings with a walk/jog up towards Uchisar, then down Gullicinlik (Pigeon) Valley, just trying to absorb the famously extraordinary landscape of Capaddocia. This morning, after a stupendous breakfast at the Shoestring cave hotel, I embarked on a longer outing, mostly taken at a gentle running pace. Towards sword valley initially, then through terrain ruined by quad bikes (a total blight on the landscape and ambience). The signage was appalling, and the terrain very complex, so I just followed my nose as the whim took me. This led to what I assume was Rose Valley, with its deep pinks and oranges stretching up towards the high plateau of Hagri Dag. A cave church was at the end of one of these hidden valleys, along with blossoming cherry trees: it was exquisite, and I had it all completely to myself. Down this valley, then up another, before taking the tracks to the village of Cavusin. I bought and drank a bottle of water below the remarkable 'cave city' that towers above the village, then headed down to the main Avanos road. A left turn, then a short road section before branching off towards Love Valley, which I then followed in its entirety, all the way up to Uchisar, the remarkable cave village I had already reached yesterday (it is dominated by a 'castle' formed by a giant pinnacle, a useful navigational aid). This valley, with its phallic 'fairy chimneys' is perhaps the most extraordinary of all, albeit a little less enclosed. Again, blossoming cherry trees added to the ambience (the weather was perfect throughout - deep blue cloudless skies, warm with little humidity. Again, I had it to myself: it has a remote feel in its upper reaches, which is completely deceptive because the road is never far away. The pillars fade, and the top sections reminded me of Utah, 'slick rock' and white canyon walls. I emerged at a pomegranate seller's stall, and then the Uchisar road. Miles away, across the plains, loomed Erciyes Dagi, a giant 4000m isolated stratavolcano peak above Kayseri. Later visited the open air museum with its ancient cave churches, then refuelled with the local speciality claypot kebab.

Wigan half

Race: Wigan half marathon

Time/Position: 1.21.43 (18th from 583 [1st V50])

This was something of a 'range finder', my first half since running 78.02 at Vyrnwy in September. It was also highly opportunistic, just breaking the journey from home to pick up EE from York. As such, I was pleased to feel pretty good and I really enjoyed the varied, interesting course. I struggled with the pace initially, on flat roads out from the pleasantly Victorian Mesnes Park towards the industry around Marsh Green. After looping the DW stadium, I began to feel much better and really enjoyed the next long section alongside the Leeds and Liverpool canal past Wigan Pier. I knew a climb was coming up, but still, the haul up to Haigh Hall was much tougher than I'd expected: steep, long and hard. I kept it going fairly well, gaining a place or two. Then, after looping the hall, you get to enjoy the long descent back to the woodland park gates (all very pleasant, lovely woods) before a very fast finish back to Mesnes Park. Finished first V50 in what I felt to be a reasonable time given the nature of the course and my current lack of speedwork. Then, straight into the car to continue the drive to York!

Phoenix parkrun

'Race': Phoenix parkrun

Time/Position: 18.57 (2nd from 84)

Runcorn doesn't sound the most attractive location, but actually this is a really nice course, and seemed the most likely local (ish) option this morning after much snow and ice. Last night saw one of the most memorable ever Collie Classic runs, up Famau in stunning conditions of deep snow as the sun set. It was  a bit tiring wading through the snow, but felt truly Nordic at times with branches weighed down by the volume of snow and the eastern sky purple. Today was a sharp contrast, mild and sunny in Phoenix park - the course involves two and a half laps with three climbs, almost all tarmac, and a nice lakeside/canal blast. The young lad up front was literally a kilometre (3 minutes) ahead of me in 2nd place, as he beat the course record.

Pipe Dream

Race: Pipe Dream (6.8k/420m)

Time/Position: 41.42 (28th from 148 [3rd V50])

I last did this way back in 2007, and at that time the route didn't follow the actual line of the pipe - instead it headed up the zig-zags in the Dolgarrog woods. Now, it is a unique outing: going up the steps right next to the pipe, at a gradient of 55%. This is all as brutal as it sounds, and as a championship counter there was quite a sprint for places, as the steps are not really amenable to overtaking! Where the gradient eases, jelly legs need to solidify for the familiar track towards Llyn Cowlyd. This is left quite quickly so the route can maintain its religious devotion to the pipe. I felt sluggish here, not really able to regain any sort of pace after the climb. A short extra climb to a vague summit, which I vaguely remembered from last time, before a fast descent, tricky in places, over field paths and down steep woodland. Simon caught me on the descent, and stayed ahead on the final steep track to the school. I was then able to pull ahead on the manic 600 metre dash through the village back to the hall. A nice walk round Conwy to stretch the legs, then an ultra-flat 18 miler from St Asaph (with no steps at all!) on the Sunday.

Sao Lourenco

Massively popular, with hundreds if not thousands of tourists, but still a spectacular outing along the south-eastern peninsula of Madeira, taking in two small but sharp summits via the PR8. It was positively hot at some points today, and there is no shade on the route at all, apart from the palm trees at the cafe. Wonderful views back to the cloudy mountains and across the Atlantic in all directions, particularly where the peninsula narrows.

Pico Grande

Peaks: Pico Grande (1654m)

Area: Madeira

This was the mountain I most wanted to do on Madeira, a fine peak that occupies a very central position west of Saturday's high peaks. After an early breakfast, a complicated and very steep drive led straight up through several villages to the Boca da Corrida. Warm sunshine and wonderful views immediately, with the hidden Nun's Valley way down below and Pico Ruivo across the valley. Ahead, Pico Grande dominates, however, with its very distinctive summit tower. It proved far easier than I had expected, and I adopted a loping jog along the superb path leading to Encumeada. Two major obstacles block the path, the peaks of Pico do Cavalo and Pico de Serradinho, but the path weaves between them, contouring above the Nun's Valley at one point, then ducking through the gap: never too arduous however, and often almost level. At the Relvinha col, a major junction, so I took the eastwards path briefly before a more minor path climbed the hillside. It seemed fairly obvious that this would lead up Pico Grande, and it contours the hillside, fairly exposed, before curving back to the north-west. Thoroughly enjoyable throughout, and quite a distinctive landscape, quite different from Saturday. Open heathland with peaks emerging from an undulating plateau. The summit tower loomed ahead with some mist playing around. A sloping traverse right, then an easy scramble (chains) to a volcanic sandstone summit. A complete contrast to Saturday, I had the entire mountain to myself. I could just see down to Funchal as the mist parted. The return leg went equally smoothly and I was back at the car after 1:37 of effort (less than an hour for the climb to the summit). Back at a sunny hotel by 11am, leaving plenty of time left for a wonderful day exploring Funchal and Monte.

Ribeiro Frio loop

Peaks: Chao das Freiteiras (1200m)

Area: Madeira

Not really a summit, more of a broad plateau, but it formed the highpoint of this delightful circuit from the beautiful hamlet of Ribeiro Frio, nestled amidst subtropical vegetation on the northern side of the watershed. 'Cold river' seemed appropriate in the early morning out of the sunshine, a chilly spot indeed, although by the time we had reached the side viewpoint of Balcoes via the Furado levada, we were in the sunshine for the spectacular views out over the Foja da Noguieara valley. Mist was rolling over the high summits of yesterday, but the view was still outstanding, and in the other direction lush valleys rolled down to the Atlantic with Porto Santo very clear. We then went back to the village and started on our first proper levada (although I had already done a brilliant 5 mile run along the local levada dos piornais from our hotel that morning). Initially, the river ran alongside, fast-flowing, then the tranquility of the trickling levada Portela took precedent. I had been on the hunt for the endemic Madeiran firecrest all day and finally located one (not easy!) about 1km down this track, lively but giving pleasingly diagnostic views. The levada got better and better, with views opening out through the dense cloud forest, down to the sea. To the right, side valleys, waterfalls and giant ferns. And all the time the flowing water, just delightful. A few little engineered tunnels and the occasional exposed section led to a sharp kink right and then a wonderful junction at a little bridge where two river valleys converge. After a break, watching the tame Madeiran chaffinches and enjoying the delightful ambience, we followed the steeper stream up a much more obscure (and far steeper) path alongside the Poco do Bezerro levada (the stream has the same name). Babbling water on both side, dappled shade, lush vegetation, and a lovely path. Kate was tiring a little, as the climb was fairly steep, but after 1000ft or so of ascent it emerges at an upland meadow with scattered broom: a total contrast. A short climb then leads to the Chao des Freiteiras plateau and great views down to the Atlantic and then across to the high peaks of yesterday, where grey cloud was rolling in. Some drizzle as we turned at some derelict buildings to take an ancient cobbled path down to the road (echoes of the stone paths of Mallorca here). A brisk downhill jog back to the car in Ribeiro Frio, and then a superb late lunch at the famous Abrigo do Poiso restaurant, a grand old place with a lovely atmosphere. By now it was pouring with rain, which made it even more special as we enjoyed caldo verde and espetada in front of a roaring fire.

Pico Ruivo and subpeaks

Peaks: Pico do Arieero (1818m), Pico Ruivo (1861m), Encumeada Alta (1760m)

Area; Madeira

In the late 1990s, Kate came with me on several moderate mountaineering expeditions overseas, summiting Swinica in the Polish Tatra, for example. Since then, not so much, so today - our 22nd anniversary - was doubly memorable. Although rammed with tourists, and not my usual cup of tea, this is such a fabulous outing that I was able to push the crowds and ironmongery to the back of my mind and just enjoy the scenery and situation. The route starts near the summit of Pico do Arieero, replete with cafe, and mist began to peel away from the summit as we arrived, revealing a mouth-watering array of peaks and pinnacles along the complex ridge leading to Ruivo, the Madeiran highpoint. Without the paths, waymarking and steps, this would make a stunning and fairly serious mountaineering expedition. With them, it's merely a tourist attraction. Still, the amount of descent in the first few km still suggested a longish day out, as it is an out-and-back course. A narrow arete leads to a catwalk and then the first major viewpoint: Ninho da Manta. I've seen some views in my time, but this is right up there, despite its accessibility and hordes of tourists. A deep cauldron, ever changing views in shifting mist, pinnacles rising above, impenetrable valleys plunging downwards - it is spectacular. Then comes a narrower arete, sensational views, followed by a long series of steep stepped descents and then the start of the tunnels at the Paso de Gato. This allows the complex ground west of Pico das Torres to be negotiated via dramatic contouring paths and more descending. The wind whistled through some of these gaps - and I saw a spectacled warbler. Ahead, Pico Ruivo, accessed by very steep steps, which reminded me of the Bukhansan range in Korea, steps allowing ordinary pedestrians to access difficult terrain. A very pronounced col is reached and then the terrain gets gentler, a rising series of zigzags on the east of Ruivo, completely different in character to the drama that precedes it (but still very scenic). The trees are all dead on this side, lending an eerie feel as the slopes are climbed - eventually reaching a charmingly situated refuge in a glade on top of a broad col. Kate could then relax! I jogged up to the top of Pico Ruivo, Madeira's highpoint, sadly in thick mist by now. Then another gentle jog down, before I decided to append an extra peak to the day - the obvious ridge/highpoint further to the east. This meant another jog towards Encumeada before taking a steep side path, wet and vegetated, that I'd seen from the col. This led to a rock band and some chains, mild scrambling, to a huge summit plateau. I think, from pictures, these chains might have formed part of a 'vertical kilometre' running event held fairly recently. The highpoint of this peak is pronounced, despite the plateau, marked by a large pillar - and yet the name of the peak is not obvious. Research suggests it is Encumeada Alta. Whatever, views were superb - right down to the north coast, the Atlantic and Porto Santo, and across to the jagged peaks we had just traversed. An easy jog back to Kate, who had now finished her coffee! The return leg was equally atmospheric, with mist now swirling around. It got quite cold after the tunnels with thick mist and a sharp wind. Kate was tiring a little towards the top of Pico Areeiro, which is a considerable climb back out. Still, our moving time was much less than three hours for the entire outing, which is fairly respectable including the extra peak (16k/1250m). We recovered with a sandwich at the cafe before driving back down to Funchal.

Bala double

Over 20 years ago, I ran Ras Llyn Tegid, which used to be a well-known race looping around Bala Lake (in fact, I think dad ran it too, even earlier!). That race is long-since defunct, which is a shame but not all that surprising as although the outward leg is quiet, the homeward leg along the north shore main road is far too busy. My idea was to motivate myself to do a trial long road run to see if my 12th London Marathon scheduled for April is still on the cards, and do it somewhere nice. Broadly, I concluded that it is still on, as I felt surprisingly good today despite the fact that the last long run I did was actually the London Marathon itself last October! My illness prevented me keeping it ticking over. The far side of the lake through Llangower to Llanuwchllyn is a delight, peaceful and scenic with a little mist over Arenig but ideal conditions: mild and calm. Through Llanuwchllyn and then the busier homeward leg, which has a newly built path keeping you away from the road to Glanllyn. I completed the clockwise loop in 67 minutes, had a gel and drink from my car, then continued through Bala to add on a much hillier second loop from Llanfor up the draining climb to Rhiwlas. This was new terrain for me, and the 400ft climb (although tarmac) is pretty savage! Great views, and then a fast descent which came out by the bridge in Bala: 16 miles all at a reasonable 4.15/km pace.

Ruthin parkrun

'Race': Ruthin parkrun

Time/Position: 17.59 (1st from 79)

This was pleasing, the fastest I have run since October, so a nice hint that regaining last year's lost form might not be a completely forlorn hope. It is a very flat, fast course, but some of that is mitigated by at least six very tight 180 degree turns. Unusually for a parkrun, it is all tarmac too, looping round the memorial fields near Ruthin's football ground. I never felt entirely comfortable, but never in distress either, certainly something to build on.

Windy Hill fell race

Race: Windy Hill fell race (12m/2200ft)

Time/Position: 1.40.51 (25th from 219)

A fell race through a landscape familiar to tens of millions of people, Windy Hill crosses the busy M62 a grand total of four times. I have often looked out at this rather bleak landscape on the Yorkshire/ Lancashire border, but although I have raced just a little further north several times (Blackstone Edge, Haworth Hobble, Heptonstall), I'd never done this before. It was a brilliant outing, perfect for me as my recovery continues. From the HQ in the characterful Ram's Head, the race starts downhill to the Piethorne reservoir before taking gently rising tracks over Tunshill lane, crossing under the motorway to rugby fields on the edge of Hollingworth Then it curves back round and heads north over the motorway to long and fast contouring tracks leading to Lydgate and a junction with the Blackstone Edge race (memorable for being one of the first to restart after the 2021 lockdown). I remembered the climb alongside the Halifax road, although today's route was far more satisfying, going all the way up the Roman Road to the Aggin stone on top of the ridge. Awkward terrain then led south along Blackstone Edge itself with hazy views over Greater Manchester - a mixture of gritstone, tussocks and peat - although generally conditions were excellent as it has been dry recently, cool with high cloud. Eventually the M62 is crossed for the 4th and final time over the Pennine Way bridge, then flags lead to the mast on top of Windy Hill. A long undulating descent over the hills visible from the motorway to finally retrace steps, including (of course) the inevitable final climb back to the finish at the Ram's Head, a tiring conclusion. From a personal perspective, this was an ideal race today - long enough and runnable enough to be a good tester, without ever feeling the need to really push it. Interesting and enjoyable throughout.

Tal y Fan

Peaks: Tal y Fan

Area: Carneddau

The weather was far better than the forecast this morning, so I could have been more ambitious than just plodding up Tal y Fan. That said, time was limited and the ancient tracks south from Sychnant have always been right up there on my list of favourite places. A headwind made life tricky today but conditions were almost springlike with milky cloud and even a tiny bit of sunshine. I went via the quarry to gain the ridge, then headed north from the summit to loop round back to the quarry for a fast descent along the Pen race route (1:20).

Tarren Hendre

Race: Ras Tarren Hendre (10k/600m)

Time/Position: 1.03.05 (19th from 75)

For various reasons, I had never got round to this 'depths of winter' race before - possibly the only long-established north Wales fell race I have never done. It always used to clash with the XC champs in Rhug, but this year made a perfect day out to complete my return to proper racing, albeit compromised by an obvious lack of speed and fitness. Conditions were superb - no wind, nicely cool with a high cloud base - and it all made for a thoroughly enjoyable day out for our small group. I went fairly well at the climb, which goes up gentle fire tracks interspersed with two brutally steep direct climbs through conifer forest. Eventually, you emerge at the final steep climb to the top of Tarren Hendre. I was in 14th place, feeling reasonably OK after an ascent of just over half an hour. I descended badly, inevitable really given the length of my lay-off from proper racing. The long ridge over towards Tarren y Gesail take you round Mynydd Rhyd Galed, all runnable, and then little contouring tracks lead to the sharp turn north-westwards. From here, tricky terrain, very boggy in places, leads steeply to the old quarries in Nant Gwernol. The comes a long, fast and gradual descent down inclines and fire roads, normally the sort of place in which I would look to make up ground, but I found that hard to do today with limited road speed. I was passed by at least five runners on the descent from the summit.

The Horse

Race: The Horse (12k+/500m)

Time/Position: 1.12.15 (2nd team from 24)

There could hardly be a better way to return to proper racing than this, a brilliant and memorable night-time event round the 'Cilcain skyline' in lovely soft snow. Teams only, so I ran with Jez, still unsure about how I might feel. In the event, I felt good throughout and thoroughly enjoyed it, wonderful to be back! From Cilcain, snowy fields led to the Nannerch bridleway and then a steep climb to the ridge from the second checkpoint (all punch CPs, no marshalls). Snow falling and good coverage underfoot as we pelted along the ridge with headtorches, highly atmospheric. We took the traverse path on the western side, definitely the best route choice, up to the CP on Moel Famau. Then came the superb fast descent down the 'Collie climb', always exhilarating and especially so today (even more so because fast descending caused me problems during GF). Back to Cilcain and a very crowded White Horse via the fields. Around 70 runners in 24 teams. 

Erddig parkrun

'Race': Erddig parkrun

Time/Position: 20.03 (1st from 200)

The tactic of using parkruns to try to regain a modicum of speed after my mild illness seems to be working reasonably well. Erddig was very muddy this morning after lots of rain, with a lot of lying water even on the gravel tracks. As a result, I wasn't too disheartened by the slow time, around half a minute down on the last time I did it. The route is really enjoyable, particularly the wooded section. Morgan had another great race to finish 10th. HR was low, as it was on a 15k run the next day, leading me to finally declare glandular fever over after three months.

Penrhyn parkrun

'Race': Penrhyn parkrun

Time/position: 19.16 (3rd from 109)

Promising signs again, as my HR was normal today for this, my second time at the Penrhyn PR. I was 40 seconds slower than last time (around 5 years ago) but thoroughly enjoyed the circuit, particularly as the icy rain began to ease to great views over the sea and mountains. Steady but unspectacular pace, comfortable but it will obviously take time to get some speed back. Morgan had a superb outing and a top 15 finish. Next day, 16k to Penmon in abysmal conditions - floods, torrential rain.

Maen Gwynedd horseshoe

Peaks: Mynydd Tarw, Foel Wen, Tomle, Craig Berwyn, Cadair Berwyn, Moel yr Ewig, Godor

Area: Berwyn

An excellent way to start the new year. I have done this obscure horseshoe quite a few times, so it was nice to take Morgan round it today. We also hit the jackpot with the weather, as the mist peeled away from the Berwyn ridge just as we got to it. The problem with this circuit, however, is the near-continuous bog at this time of year. After the very sharp climb up Mynydd Tarw, the ridge undulates for a long time over Foel Wen and Tomle, very boggy in places. At Bwlch Maen Gwynedd it eases, and we had a short break here - quite cold with mist rolling over the main ridge. Luckily, the mist began to peel away from the west as we got to Craig Berwyn, spectacular effects rendering the Berwyn quite dramatic for a while. Then it was steeply down towards Llyn Lluncaws, sunny now, and along the very boggy and tiring moor to the final peak of Godor. A superbly simple grassy descent makes up a little for the earlier bog.

Chester parkrun

'Race': Chester parkrun

Time/Position: 19.30 (10th from 260 [1st V50])

My worst ever parkrun finishing position, but given that this was the first time I had run at an even vaguely quick pace since mid-September, I was pretty pleased. Only the second time I've done the B course, which takes a tighter loop with less off-road running. That said, it was still pretty slippery in the conditions. High HR at times, but mainly in the final mile.