Race: Tywardreath Trotter, Cornwall (7m)
Time/Position: 44.32 (6th from 266 [2nd V40])
An ideal opportunity to stretch my legs on the long journey home from Coverack, this race exceeded my expectations - a lovely multi-terrain circuit with a bit of everything thrown into the mix. A really special atmosphere throughout: this was clearly a big event and the village turned out to watch in amazingly big numbers. A long and tortuous drive via Veryan and Mevagissey - sustained by a classic cream tea - saw us arrive in Tywardreath near Fowey as the evening sun came out: neither child could be persuaded to do the fun run, preferring to take in the race barbecue instead. Almost 300 runners from a huge range of clubs turned out, as this was the final counter in the Cornish summer off-road race series. After a circuit of the whole village, we headed out into the lanes via a steep, rocky descent down to a lovely riverside path. It was hard to overtake so I took it easy for a while, expecting a long climb up to the 3 mile point (having luckily checked the profile and map just before the start!). I began to pick up places and soon found myself in a group of four, about 50m behind the lead group of four. After we crested the high point of the route, tarmac lanes led to more bridleways. I was evenly matched with the others in the group on the road, but tended to gain ground on the steeper fell-style climbs. As a result, I pulled into fourth place during the long final climb up a small road which lead to fields with a superb view of the sea above Fowey. I was still in fourth approaching the final descent down steep steps, during which you can hear the roar (almost a roar anyway!) of the village crowds. They then get a good view as you descend down a dip then climb back up to the pub. My pathetic excuse for a finishing kick meant I was run out of it in front of my family in the last 100m, pushed back down to sixth place by the two chaps I'd run in with: less than a minute behind the winner surprisingly. The most enjoyable race I've done for some time: a great event. I ran straight back up to the car and we began the long drive to our next hotel in Tiverton via Dartmoor, me still in my sweaty race vest.
Saturday, July 27, 2013
Tuesday, July 23, 2013
Pednavounder-Godrevy Cornish coast run
After an attempt at a speed session on the lanes yesterday, I continued the holiday theme with another relaxed outing first thing in the morning. From Pednavounder, the sun cast low beams over the sea as I descended into Coverack at Dolor Point. Lovely running through the village to gain the SW Coast Path, this time heading NE towards Pedn Myin and Lowland Point. The scenery here is less dramatic than on Sunday's outing, but gives fine running right next to the sea, past seals and curlews. Dean Quarry is an unfortunate unsightly intrusion, but Godrevy Cove comes shortly afterwards and is a remote and appealing beach. From here, I headed inland, gradually climbing to the hamlet of Rosenithon, then back home via the tiny lanes I'd explored yesterday - through the heathland of Main Dale to St Keverne Beacon and the cottage.
Sunday, July 21, 2013
Chynhalls-Carn Kennack Cornish coast run
The first full day of our Cornish holiday, so left bright and early to jog down from our cottage at Pednavounder to Trewillis and the Lizard coastline above Chynhalls cliff. I'd explored some of this yesterday, but the morning run along the SW Coast Path was just superb. Tremendous views west from Black Head, then over Pedn Boar to Beagles Hole (supposedly the site of buried pirate treasure - with a very specific legend attached). From here, a very steep up-and-down over Downas Cove led to a series of atmospheric coves, then steep Zawn Vinoc and the peninsula of Carrick Luz. Quicker, flatter running then led to Kennack Sands and over to Carn Kennack, before I located the obscure path that led via a surprisingly tough climb inland to Trevenwith farm and a good bridleway to the hamlet of Ponsongath and back to the cottage.
Thursday, July 18, 2013
Longland's Climb, Cloggy
Crag: Clogwyn du'r Arddu, Yr Wyddfa
Routes: Longland's Climb (VS 4a,4b,4a,4c:led p.1,2,5)
One of the grand old Welsh classics and only the second time I've climbed on this, the greatest of all Welsh crags. We had initially planned to do some shorter routes on the steep East Buttress, but such is the nature of this long-running heatwave that a big route on West Buttress just seemed more appropriate. Longland's was the first route to breach this face in 1928, and gives a tremendous route up a series of intricate narrow slabs on the left of the cliff. I found it more sustained, slightly better, and probably a tad more serious than Great Slab, which we did two years ago. The adventure begins immediately, with the scramble along the East Terrace to gain a wet and vegetated approach line that goes up behind a big flake. We roped up for the airy move round this flake to a good thread in an already exposed position. I led up the first narrow slab. A mildly tricky start gains a good flake then easy and enjoyable climbing in a nice position up the slab, poised above the Black Cleft to the left. The dry weather meant that even the crack on the right of the slab was dry, lending itself to some cam placements. I couldn't find a decent belay where the slab narrowed into a chimney where the right wall closes in, so continued up the second pitch as the slab steepens slightly up sharp flakes to a good nut placement. Then comes the crux, right at the top of this giant 40m pitch: small holds lead to the top of the slab then a surprisingly tricky mantelshelf in a superb position pulling out of the slab to the right, then up more easily to a poor belay. Vic's pitch was equally long, better and more coherent than we'd expected. The guide suggests it is broken and chossy, but it's actually good straitforward slabby climbing in a superb position high on the cliff. This leads to a big ledge with numerous flakes: above which the final pitch rises intimidatingly. Steep moves up a vague arete poised above a lot of space beyond the right edge of the ledge leads via a surprisingly awkward pinch grip and hard pull up (for the grade) to a huge jug, which leads to more good holds then easier climbing up right towards a final awkward slanting chimney. I led a final fifth pitch up the broken rib which leads to a wide couloir and the top. A long descent down the Eastern Terrace: all quite atmospheric, and much more secure than the Western Terrace we descended in 2011. Thirsty and hungry, we were glad to traverse right down good scrambling sections to the sacs. After a late lunch, we decided that swimming in usually freezing, dark, atmospheric Llyn du'r Arddu was a better prize than another route - so scampered down the screes and plunged in. Chilly, but not unacceptable.
Routes: Longland's Climb (VS 4a,4b,4a,4c:led p.1,2,5)
One of the grand old Welsh classics and only the second time I've climbed on this, the greatest of all Welsh crags. We had initially planned to do some shorter routes on the steep East Buttress, but such is the nature of this long-running heatwave that a big route on West Buttress just seemed more appropriate. Longland's was the first route to breach this face in 1928, and gives a tremendous route up a series of intricate narrow slabs on the left of the cliff. I found it more sustained, slightly better, and probably a tad more serious than Great Slab, which we did two years ago. The adventure begins immediately, with the scramble along the East Terrace to gain a wet and vegetated approach line that goes up behind a big flake. We roped up for the airy move round this flake to a good thread in an already exposed position. I led up the first narrow slab. A mildly tricky start gains a good flake then easy and enjoyable climbing in a nice position up the slab, poised above the Black Cleft to the left. The dry weather meant that even the crack on the right of the slab was dry, lending itself to some cam placements. I couldn't find a decent belay where the slab narrowed into a chimney where the right wall closes in, so continued up the second pitch as the slab steepens slightly up sharp flakes to a good nut placement. Then comes the crux, right at the top of this giant 40m pitch: small holds lead to the top of the slab then a surprisingly tricky mantelshelf in a superb position pulling out of the slab to the right, then up more easily to a poor belay. Vic's pitch was equally long, better and more coherent than we'd expected. The guide suggests it is broken and chossy, but it's actually good straitforward slabby climbing in a superb position high on the cliff. This leads to a big ledge with numerous flakes: above which the final pitch rises intimidatingly. Steep moves up a vague arete poised above a lot of space beyond the right edge of the ledge leads via a surprisingly awkward pinch grip and hard pull up (for the grade) to a huge jug, which leads to more good holds then easier climbing up right towards a final awkward slanting chimney. I led a final fifth pitch up the broken rib which leads to a wide couloir and the top. A long descent down the Eastern Terrace: all quite atmospheric, and much more secure than the Western Terrace we descended in 2011. Thirsty and hungry, we were glad to traverse right down good scrambling sections to the sacs. After a late lunch, we decided that swimming in usually freezing, dark, atmospheric Llyn du'r Arddu was a better prize than another route - so scampered down the screes and plunged in. Chilly, but not unacceptable.
Wednesday, July 17, 2013
Adam Rib, Craig Cwm Du
Crag/Peak: Craig Cwm Du, Mynydd Mawr
Routes: Adam Rib (HS 4b:led p.1,4)
Broke the long afternoon journey to the Caernarfon hinterland with an idyllic coastal run from Aber to Llanfairfechan and back. Blue sky, deep blue sea, a cooling onshore breeze. After a picnic, I headed up meet Vic at the obscure but superbly situated village of Fron. I couldn't remember coming up here before, but the views of Nantlle and Llyn are tremendous, especially on a day like this. We had decided to take advantage of the heatwave by going for those high, north-facing crags that need weather like this - always satisfying to grab these 'prizes', rather like winter climbing in that sense. We parked at the quarries and walked along the fine level path above Llyn Ffynnhonau to gain the main Mynydd Mawr ridge. We should have just contoured into the cwm at this point, but looked to maintain height and quickly ran out of descent options as the crag just becomes too steep. Cue an infuriating detour all the way to the top of the crag and down rubble and heather slopes further east. An enormous waste of precious time and - more importantly - energy, as we were intending to head to Cloggy first thing tomorrow morning. Once there, Adam Rib is fairly easy to identify: I'd been up in this remote cwm once before and have wanted to do the route for years. It is one of the classic low-grade mountaineering routes in Snowdonia, and clearly visible from Caernarfon and surrounds. It gives a lovely route in a delightfully peaceful location. It was all bone dry and warm as I set off up the messy first pitch with the sun sinking over the ridge. Even this had pleasant moments, a long 40m scramble with some steeper sections up the rib line. Vic went too far left on the next pitch, but I thought it was a lovely piece of gentle climbing, up the left wall of a deep groove to a subsidiary rib, then a juggy traverse across to the stance. As Vic was now diagonally above me, and completely off route, I fashioned a belay with the limited gear I had and he continued to lead upwards towards the real line, depriving me of pitch three! After a delicate traverse across to get his gear, I moved back to the juggy crack left of the main rib, then a few loose pinnacles to the saddle belay below the final pitch. This is steep and narrow: the crux of the route, so it was nice to be able to lead it especially as the low sun lit the rib as we climbed upwards. I crept up the right-hand side then pulled leftwards onto the rib in a superb position. The rock needs careful handling here, but the 4b crux is very short and the position above is excellent as the rib flattens out whilst remaining narrow. Then a beautiful walk down from Mynydd Mawr, along the ridge in superb clarity of evening light, with a long corridor of sunlight over the Irish Sea and Llyn. A couple of pints in the Railway in Porthmadog followed by pizza on the terrace.
Routes: Adam Rib (HS 4b:led p.1,4)
Broke the long afternoon journey to the Caernarfon hinterland with an idyllic coastal run from Aber to Llanfairfechan and back. Blue sky, deep blue sea, a cooling onshore breeze. After a picnic, I headed up meet Vic at the obscure but superbly situated village of Fron. I couldn't remember coming up here before, but the views of Nantlle and Llyn are tremendous, especially on a day like this. We had decided to take advantage of the heatwave by going for those high, north-facing crags that need weather like this - always satisfying to grab these 'prizes', rather like winter climbing in that sense. We parked at the quarries and walked along the fine level path above Llyn Ffynnhonau to gain the main Mynydd Mawr ridge. We should have just contoured into the cwm at this point, but looked to maintain height and quickly ran out of descent options as the crag just becomes too steep. Cue an infuriating detour all the way to the top of the crag and down rubble and heather slopes further east. An enormous waste of precious time and - more importantly - energy, as we were intending to head to Cloggy first thing tomorrow morning. Once there, Adam Rib is fairly easy to identify: I'd been up in this remote cwm once before and have wanted to do the route for years. It is one of the classic low-grade mountaineering routes in Snowdonia, and clearly visible from Caernarfon and surrounds. It gives a lovely route in a delightfully peaceful location. It was all bone dry and warm as I set off up the messy first pitch with the sun sinking over the ridge. Even this had pleasant moments, a long 40m scramble with some steeper sections up the rib line. Vic went too far left on the next pitch, but I thought it was a lovely piece of gentle climbing, up the left wall of a deep groove to a subsidiary rib, then a juggy traverse across to the stance. As Vic was now diagonally above me, and completely off route, I fashioned a belay with the limited gear I had and he continued to lead upwards towards the real line, depriving me of pitch three! After a delicate traverse across to get his gear, I moved back to the juggy crack left of the main rib, then a few loose pinnacles to the saddle belay below the final pitch. This is steep and narrow: the crux of the route, so it was nice to be able to lead it especially as the low sun lit the rib as we climbed upwards. I crept up the right-hand side then pulled leftwards onto the rib in a superb position. The rock needs careful handling here, but the 4b crux is very short and the position above is excellent as the rib flattens out whilst remaining narrow. Then a beautiful walk down from Mynydd Mawr, along the ridge in superb clarity of evening light, with a long corridor of sunlight over the Irish Sea and Llyn. A couple of pints in the Railway in Porthmadog followed by pizza on the terrace.
Tuesday, July 16, 2013
Trafford AC Grand Prix 3k
Race: Longford Park 3000m
Time/Position: 9.49 (14th from 27 [1st Veteran])
After 300 races and 15 years of running, this was my first ever formal track meet: at Longford Park in Stretford. It was also my first ever 3k race - but it had struck me for a while that sub 10 minutes was a fairly obvious target for one of my vintage and decrepitude. The problem is that interval training, other speedwork and all road races are purely winter pursuits for me: summer is reserved exclusively for the mountains. As such, I'd done no formal preparation for this: and it is a pretty serious event in a proper athletics stadium on a proper track with a crowd and some very talented athletes. In short, I was impressed with the level of organisation and the precision of the timing: and really enjoyed the very different experience of pelting round the track for 7.5 laps. I concentrated on maintaining 1:20 per lap pace, and stayed reasonably comfortable for the first 3 or 4. Then, inevitably, oxygen debt becomes the key factor - but I managed to push the pace just a little to give myself a cushion for sub-10. The intense heat of the day just wasn't a factor, surprisingly, although a stiff breeze was annoying at times. The last lap was quite tough, but I was pleased with my time and wonder if I could go a bit quicker during winter training.
Time/Position: 9.49 (14th from 27 [1st Veteran])
After 300 races and 15 years of running, this was my first ever formal track meet: at Longford Park in Stretford. It was also my first ever 3k race - but it had struck me for a while that sub 10 minutes was a fairly obvious target for one of my vintage and decrepitude. The problem is that interval training, other speedwork and all road races are purely winter pursuits for me: summer is reserved exclusively for the mountains. As such, I'd done no formal preparation for this: and it is a pretty serious event in a proper athletics stadium on a proper track with a crowd and some very talented athletes. In short, I was impressed with the level of organisation and the precision of the timing: and really enjoyed the very different experience of pelting round the track for 7.5 laps. I concentrated on maintaining 1:20 per lap pace, and stayed reasonably comfortable for the first 3 or 4. Then, inevitably, oxygen debt becomes the key factor - but I managed to push the pace just a little to give myself a cushion for sub-10. The intense heat of the day just wasn't a factor, surprisingly, although a stiff breeze was annoying at times. The last lap was quite tough, but I was pleased with my time and wonder if I could go a bit quicker during winter training.
Monday, July 08, 2013
Tryfan West Face scrambles
Crag/Peak: West Face, Tryfan
Routes: V Buttress Arete (M:led p.1,2,3), Notch Arete (M:led p.1,2,3)
After taking John on his first ever climb last month, I thought he might enjoy a short mountaineering day a little more, so we went for a combined run/scramble up the West Face of Tryfan in the continuing spell of high pressure and warm sunshine. This is usually described as Tryfan's 'cinderella' area, far removed from the crowds of punters on the East Face classics. This combination gives a superb mountain day, however, and was ideal for our purposes as time was tight. We jogged slowly upwards to gain the shallow gully which gives steep but rapid access to the upper part of the West Face (20 mins). I've done some routes here over the years, but couldn't remember going this far 'up'. I located the V Buttress quite easily, and led off from the loose gully in running shoes on my short 9mm rope. After a flake, some nice moves gain the crest of the buttress, after which a series of sharp flakes led to a belay. I deliberately kept all the pitches short so I could keep an eye on John. Above, the ridge continued in this vein: easy angled slabs and flakes at the exact border of scrambling and climbing (Alpine PD+ perhaps). At the top, I led through up a variant finish - a steep little chimney on the crest of the ridge. We then unroped and scrambled diagonally up right to where I thought Notch Arete started. This was nice, but a bit midgy, and involved some scrambly sections to gain the base of the arete. Notch Arete was a real surprise: a lovely Alpine style ridge, almost a chandelle, glowing in the sunshine. Perfect rock, and I weaved around picking up nice variants up chimneys and grooves to gain a sloping platform. Two more pitches led quite delightfully up the centre of the arete - all easy angled, big holds, perfect for novice John. Wonderful views, and a connoisseur's route up Tryfan. We emerged at the Notch, then enjoyed picking a direct line above to North Tower to lunch on the summit in hot sunshine. We descended the South Ridge to Bwlch Tryfan, then ran down via Llyn Bochlwyd: Notch Arete very obvious as a line from here.
Routes: V Buttress Arete (M:led p.1,2,3), Notch Arete (M:led p.1,2,3)
After taking John on his first ever climb last month, I thought he might enjoy a short mountaineering day a little more, so we went for a combined run/scramble up the West Face of Tryfan in the continuing spell of high pressure and warm sunshine. This is usually described as Tryfan's 'cinderella' area, far removed from the crowds of punters on the East Face classics. This combination gives a superb mountain day, however, and was ideal for our purposes as time was tight. We jogged slowly upwards to gain the shallow gully which gives steep but rapid access to the upper part of the West Face (20 mins). I've done some routes here over the years, but couldn't remember going this far 'up'. I located the V Buttress quite easily, and led off from the loose gully in running shoes on my short 9mm rope. After a flake, some nice moves gain the crest of the buttress, after which a series of sharp flakes led to a belay. I deliberately kept all the pitches short so I could keep an eye on John. Above, the ridge continued in this vein: easy angled slabs and flakes at the exact border of scrambling and climbing (Alpine PD+ perhaps). At the top, I led through up a variant finish - a steep little chimney on the crest of the ridge. We then unroped and scrambled diagonally up right to where I thought Notch Arete started. This was nice, but a bit midgy, and involved some scrambly sections to gain the base of the arete. Notch Arete was a real surprise: a lovely Alpine style ridge, almost a chandelle, glowing in the sunshine. Perfect rock, and I weaved around picking up nice variants up chimneys and grooves to gain a sloping platform. Two more pitches led quite delightfully up the centre of the arete - all easy angled, big holds, perfect for novice John. Wonderful views, and a connoisseur's route up Tryfan. We emerged at the Notch, then enjoyed picking a direct line above to North Tower to lunch on the summit in hot sunshine. We descended the South Ridge to Bwlch Tryfan, then ran down via Llyn Bochlwyd: Notch Arete very obvious as a line from here.
Sunday, July 07, 2013
Fairy Freckled Cow trail race
Race: Freckled Cow/Alwen trail race (11k)
Time/Position: 43.02 (6th from 143)
The hottest race I can remember since a scorcher on Gamelin three or four years ago. Llyn Alwen is in something of a bowl, although that's not immediately apparent, and there was very little breeze. To make matters worse, the race started just before midday on a hot (25c) midsummer day. It's the same for everyone, though, and the intermittent woodland does at least offer a bit of shade. I'd never done the event before, although I have run round Alwen a few times in the past. It's a delightful circuit round a scenic lake, with lots of undulations before crossing the outflow at the wild Hiraethog end. From here, a steady but draining climb into the moors leads to a short ridge before more undulations lead to the woods and the dam at the end of the lake. I picked up a few places on the short climbs before the bridge and, although I struggled on the main climb in the heat, everybody slowed a bit here. The remainder of the race, through the undulating woods on the western shore, was pretty tough as the heat took its toll.
Time/Position: 43.02 (6th from 143)
The hottest race I can remember since a scorcher on Gamelin three or four years ago. Llyn Alwen is in something of a bowl, although that's not immediately apparent, and there was very little breeze. To make matters worse, the race started just before midday on a hot (25c) midsummer day. It's the same for everyone, though, and the intermittent woodland does at least offer a bit of shade. I'd never done the event before, although I have run round Alwen a few times in the past. It's a delightful circuit round a scenic lake, with lots of undulations before crossing the outflow at the wild Hiraethog end. From here, a steady but draining climb into the moors leads to a short ridge before more undulations lead to the woods and the dam at the end of the lake. I picked up a few places on the short climbs before the bridge and, although I struggled on the main climb in the heat, everybody slowed a bit here. The remainder of the race, through the undulating woods on the western shore, was pretty tough as the heat took its toll.
Thursday, July 04, 2013
Deeside Off-Road race
Race: Deeside Off-Road Grand Prix Race 2 (4.8m)
Time/Position: 27.48 (7th from 80)
Another pleasant and warm evening for the second race in this summer XC series. As with last month's opener, I found this a bit of a struggle, but deliberately started a little more steadily and eventually came in 20 seconds quicker. Another strong field, but some fairly large gaps again opened during the first lap of the fields and woods. I was gaining on the runner in front, but couldn't catch him, and was caught out by my old bugbear - an upset stomach - on the final run-in along the dyke. Cue a desperate final lap as I sprinted to get to the facilities.
Time/Position: 27.48 (7th from 80)
Another pleasant and warm evening for the second race in this summer XC series. As with last month's opener, I found this a bit of a struggle, but deliberately started a little more steadily and eventually came in 20 seconds quicker. Another strong field, but some fairly large gaps again opened during the first lap of the fields and woods. I was gaining on the runner in front, but couldn't catch him, and was caught out by my old bugbear - an upset stomach - on the final run-in along the dyke. Cue a desperate final lap as I sprinted to get to the facilities.
Saturday, June 29, 2013
Ras Foel Fras
Race: Foel Fras fell race (20k/920m)
Time/Position: 1.55.48 (6th from 60)
In contrast to last year, when I found myself leading over Moel Wnion in driving sleet, as well as 2009 (when an incoming storm decimated the field on the summit of Garnedd Uchaf) conditions today were calm and serene. Although I was at least four minutes down, however, I still really enjoyed the race which remains one of my favourites: maybe my fifth time at the event? The climb from Aber must be one of the longest anywhere - basically five miles and an hour of constant uphill effort. After the steep early tarmac, some gaps started to appear as we all got into our respective rhythms. Jez was well ahead at this point but, unusually for a race of this length, myself and a guy from Glossopdale found ourselves neatly matched for pace on the long gradual climb up Drum. We took it in turns to take over the lead, pushing ourselves gradually towards the summit. He was stronger towards the top of Drum, although I managed to drag myself back on the boggy crawl up Foel Fras where I regained a bit of strength. We tried in vain to get up to the runner in third place before scampering through the awkward boulder fields on top of Foel Fras to fast running over the good path to Garnedd Uchaf. No bearing necessary this year, but I still managed to plunge too far north, skirting Bera Mawr in a reasonably direct contouring line but unfortunately bringing us both out on the steep scree below the summit. We both went flying on the tussocks shortly before this, and I continued slightly winded. I took a better line across to Moel Wnion, and on the early part of the descent - but the Glossopdale runner and another fast finisher were too strong for me on the descent and I finished at the back of our small group. My knee wasn't the problem, just a basic lack of speed at present. That said, I always thoroughly enjoy the final descent on this race - with the sea glistening below and great views over the wooded valley to Llwytmor.
Time/Position: 1.55.48 (6th from 60)
In contrast to last year, when I found myself leading over Moel Wnion in driving sleet, as well as 2009 (when an incoming storm decimated the field on the summit of Garnedd Uchaf) conditions today were calm and serene. Although I was at least four minutes down, however, I still really enjoyed the race which remains one of my favourites: maybe my fifth time at the event? The climb from Aber must be one of the longest anywhere - basically five miles and an hour of constant uphill effort. After the steep early tarmac, some gaps started to appear as we all got into our respective rhythms. Jez was well ahead at this point but, unusually for a race of this length, myself and a guy from Glossopdale found ourselves neatly matched for pace on the long gradual climb up Drum. We took it in turns to take over the lead, pushing ourselves gradually towards the summit. He was stronger towards the top of Drum, although I managed to drag myself back on the boggy crawl up Foel Fras where I regained a bit of strength. We tried in vain to get up to the runner in third place before scampering through the awkward boulder fields on top of Foel Fras to fast running over the good path to Garnedd Uchaf. No bearing necessary this year, but I still managed to plunge too far north, skirting Bera Mawr in a reasonably direct contouring line but unfortunately bringing us both out on the steep scree below the summit. We both went flying on the tussocks shortly before this, and I continued slightly winded. I took a better line across to Moel Wnion, and on the early part of the descent - but the Glossopdale runner and another fast finisher were too strong for me on the descent and I finished at the back of our small group. My knee wasn't the problem, just a basic lack of speed at present. That said, I always thoroughly enjoy the final descent on this race - with the sea glistening below and great views over the wooded valley to Llwytmor.
Wednesday, June 26, 2013
Pant Ifan climbing
Crag: Craig Bwlch y Moch/Craig Pant Ifan, Tremadog
Routes: Striptease (VS 5a:sec), Great Western/The Quakerman (VS+ 4b,5a,4a,4b:led p.1,3), Scratch (VS 4b,4c:led p.1)
Woke up to steady drizzle in Porthmadog: very annoying. So we put our Pant Ifan plans on hold and went off to do the classic wet weather option of Striptease, which takes a gently overhanging deep chimney/corner and therefore stays dry. I've done this at least three times now, and always find it strenuous for the grade, so Vic led. As always, it provided a good workout: with three tricky sections to fight past the overlaps. The second is the hardest, giving awkward moves with little for the feet. We then headed back to the cafe for a drink and respite from the midges, waiting for the weather to clear. It did, so we headed up the screes to Pant Ifan, where I wanted to do Great Western: one of the few VS gaps for me left at Tremadog. I led a rather damp first pitch (drying rapidly) up dirty rock from the trees to a groove before heading up the little arete to the right. One tricky move up this, involving a pinched hold, regains the groove and tree belay. Vic then led through up a variant direct second pitch: the 5a twin cracks taken by The Quakerman, a nearby eliminate at E2. This was a tad vegetated, but excellent: technical rather than strenuous, and very enjoyable on finger locks and toe jams. Easier ground then leads to the crux of Great Western: a deceptively awkward slanting chimney/crack, which continually pushes you off balance towards a tricky slab on the left. I then led the vegetated third, now in warm sunshine, which goes up cracks directly above the belay to a stance in a niche further left (Borchgrevink?). The last pitch follows broken and vegetated ground up to a very steep and quite sustained final groove: felt harder than 4b, so possibly not the final pitch of Great Western. We abbed down Barbarian and started immediately up Scratch in warm, almost hot, sunshine. I led the delightful first pitch (for the second time) which traverses gently across the face up slabby rock and small positive holds: lovely stuff. I followed Vic up the final pitch, with merciful shade for the initial crack, which is easier than it looks. The traverse across to the final crack is an atmospheric finale, great position, and leads to good jams.
Routes: Striptease (VS 5a:sec), Great Western/The Quakerman (VS+ 4b,5a,4a,4b:led p.1,3), Scratch (VS 4b,4c:led p.1)
Woke up to steady drizzle in Porthmadog: very annoying. So we put our Pant Ifan plans on hold and went off to do the classic wet weather option of Striptease, which takes a gently overhanging deep chimney/corner and therefore stays dry. I've done this at least three times now, and always find it strenuous for the grade, so Vic led. As always, it provided a good workout: with three tricky sections to fight past the overlaps. The second is the hardest, giving awkward moves with little for the feet. We then headed back to the cafe for a drink and respite from the midges, waiting for the weather to clear. It did, so we headed up the screes to Pant Ifan, where I wanted to do Great Western: one of the few VS gaps for me left at Tremadog. I led a rather damp first pitch (drying rapidly) up dirty rock from the trees to a groove before heading up the little arete to the right. One tricky move up this, involving a pinched hold, regains the groove and tree belay. Vic then led through up a variant direct second pitch: the 5a twin cracks taken by The Quakerman, a nearby eliminate at E2. This was a tad vegetated, but excellent: technical rather than strenuous, and very enjoyable on finger locks and toe jams. Easier ground then leads to the crux of Great Western: a deceptively awkward slanting chimney/crack, which continually pushes you off balance towards a tricky slab on the left. I then led the vegetated third, now in warm sunshine, which goes up cracks directly above the belay to a stance in a niche further left (Borchgrevink?). The last pitch follows broken and vegetated ground up to a very steep and quite sustained final groove: felt harder than 4b, so possibly not the final pitch of Great Western. We abbed down Barbarian and started immediately up Scratch in warm, almost hot, sunshine. I led the delightful first pitch (for the second time) which traverses gently across the face up slabby rock and small positive holds: lovely stuff. I followed Vic up the final pitch, with merciful shade for the initial crack, which is easier than it looks. The traverse across to the final crack is an atmospheric finale, great position, and leads to good jams.
Tuesday, June 25, 2013
Bwlch y Moch climbing
Crag: Craig Bwlch y Moch, Tremadog
Routes: Smarter than the Average Bear (VS 4c:sec), Yogi p.2 (VS 4b), Shere Khan (S:led), Mr Ranger (VS 4c:sec), Valerie's Rib Direct (HS 4a,4a:led p.1)
Broke the late afternoon journey to Tremadog with a truly delightful run from Aber, from the coast to the Falls, then along the foot of Moel Wnion to pick up the Foel Fras race descent. Blue sky above, deep blue sea below. Startled a party of German schoolchildren on this very obscure path! Later on, I met Vic at Eric's cafe for an evening of climbing, and we did a few short, easy routes on the right of the main crag: just concentrating on mileage, using hybrids of various different routes to good effect. I followed Vic up the variant left of the Yogi arete (which I last did 20 years ago) to begin. This gives some nice delicate moves and we continued up the variant finish to Yogi, up the rough, crystalline crack which splits the final slab. Abbed off, and I led the very easy Shere Khan: this supposedly had a nice finish up the headwall, but I could only find a vegetated groove. It looked awful, so I continued further right and belayed just below the Yogi arete so Vic could lead the pleasant finishing groove of Smarter at 4c. Mr Ranger is a cleaned and surprisingly good pitch which takes the obvious corner to a short slab, then a steep but juggy crack which joins Yogi higher up. We were moving quickly and efficiently, so we nipped round to the old classic Valerie's Rib for a finale. This is perhaps the closest climb to the cafe, and I opted for the direct start, which is a useful way of extending the route. A slabby corner, huge holds, leads to big blocks and easy climbing to the normal start. The moves across to the arete were as delightful as I remembered them from 20 years ago: perfectly placed holds allow for a delicate traverse across two grooves and give access to a ledge on the crest of the rib. I then followed the right wall of the groove taken by the Direct variant for a bit, but moved right quite quickly to take in the lovely climbing on the normal route. A good evening's work, so we retired to the Ship for pie and pint.
Routes: Smarter than the Average Bear (VS 4c:sec), Yogi p.2 (VS 4b), Shere Khan (S:led), Mr Ranger (VS 4c:sec), Valerie's Rib Direct (HS 4a,4a:led p.1)
Broke the late afternoon journey to Tremadog with a truly delightful run from Aber, from the coast to the Falls, then along the foot of Moel Wnion to pick up the Foel Fras race descent. Blue sky above, deep blue sea below. Startled a party of German schoolchildren on this very obscure path! Later on, I met Vic at Eric's cafe for an evening of climbing, and we did a few short, easy routes on the right of the main crag: just concentrating on mileage, using hybrids of various different routes to good effect. I followed Vic up the variant left of the Yogi arete (which I last did 20 years ago) to begin. This gives some nice delicate moves and we continued up the variant finish to Yogi, up the rough, crystalline crack which splits the final slab. Abbed off, and I led the very easy Shere Khan: this supposedly had a nice finish up the headwall, but I could only find a vegetated groove. It looked awful, so I continued further right and belayed just below the Yogi arete so Vic could lead the pleasant finishing groove of Smarter at 4c. Mr Ranger is a cleaned and surprisingly good pitch which takes the obvious corner to a short slab, then a steep but juggy crack which joins Yogi higher up. We were moving quickly and efficiently, so we nipped round to the old classic Valerie's Rib for a finale. This is perhaps the closest climb to the cafe, and I opted for the direct start, which is a useful way of extending the route. A slabby corner, huge holds, leads to big blocks and easy climbing to the normal start. The moves across to the arete were as delightful as I remembered them from 20 years ago: perfectly placed holds allow for a delicate traverse across two grooves and give access to a ledge on the crest of the rib. I then followed the right wall of the groove taken by the Direct variant for a bit, but moved right quite quickly to take in the lovely climbing on the normal route. A good evening's work, so we retired to the Ship for pie and pint.
Sunday, June 23, 2013
Moel y Gamelin fell race
Race: Moel y Gamelin (10m/2400ft)
Time/Position: 1.20.24 (10th from 105)
Heavy rain swept across the top of the Horseshoe Pass as we started up the short, sharp climb to Moel y Faen: and a cold headwind slowed progress along the ridge. But after Wednesday's awful performance, I was relieved to feel far stronger today and kept a reasonable plodding pace going across the tops of Gamelin, Moel y Gaer and the steep final climb up Moel Morfydd, the last peak on the ridge. It was all quite enjoyable in the conditions, much better than the hot weather of previous years (although I think I've only done this race twice before). It's not a typical fell race, because after the crossing at Bwlch y Groes it turns into a cross-country loop, out into the wilds to the west, before heading back for a tough final climb to regain the ridge and summit of Moel y Gamelin for the second time. I benefited a little from what remains of my winter speed work in this section (plus a useful tailwind), and started to pick up places, feeling good after holding back, and gained a couple more on the climb: the exact reverse of Wednesday. A very strong field again: a counter in three different championships.
Time/Position: 1.20.24 (10th from 105)
Heavy rain swept across the top of the Horseshoe Pass as we started up the short, sharp climb to Moel y Faen: and a cold headwind slowed progress along the ridge. But after Wednesday's awful performance, I was relieved to feel far stronger today and kept a reasonable plodding pace going across the tops of Gamelin, Moel y Gaer and the steep final climb up Moel Morfydd, the last peak on the ridge. It was all quite enjoyable in the conditions, much better than the hot weather of previous years (although I think I've only done this race twice before). It's not a typical fell race, because after the crossing at Bwlch y Groes it turns into a cross-country loop, out into the wilds to the west, before heading back for a tough final climb to regain the ridge and summit of Moel y Gamelin for the second time. I benefited a little from what remains of my winter speed work in this section (plus a useful tailwind), and started to pick up places, feeling good after holding back, and gained a couple more on the climb: the exact reverse of Wednesday. A very strong field again: a counter in three different championships.
Wednesday, June 19, 2013
Hotfoot up Famau fell race
Race: Hotfoot up Famau
Time/Position: 40.32 (13th from 104)
I've been due a really bad race for a while, struggling in training for a month, so there was something inevitable about this. Well over two minutes down on last year's time, and not far off my slowest ever time for this race (which is normally one of my favourites). I didn't feel too bad initially, but the unique nature of this course means you have to start fast and hold your place on the long plummet down the valley. Started to struggle towards the top of Moel y Gaer and felt awful on the little ridge that leads to the steep descent on peat to Nant y Ne. I completely blew here, and had to walk even the gentlest gradient, losing buckets of time and lots of positions. The gully was hot and humid, which made my suffering even worse, and I was glad to get to the descent down from Famau. Not sure what the problem was: long high-pressure day at conference, or hayfever? Looks like I might be helping to organise this race next year, so it's a bit of a shame I couldn't bow out with a better performance!
Time/Position: 40.32 (13th from 104)
I've been due a really bad race for a while, struggling in training for a month, so there was something inevitable about this. Well over two minutes down on last year's time, and not far off my slowest ever time for this race (which is normally one of my favourites). I didn't feel too bad initially, but the unique nature of this course means you have to start fast and hold your place on the long plummet down the valley. Started to struggle towards the top of Moel y Gaer and felt awful on the little ridge that leads to the steep descent on peat to Nant y Ne. I completely blew here, and had to walk even the gentlest gradient, losing buckets of time and lots of positions. The gully was hot and humid, which made my suffering even worse, and I was glad to get to the descent down from Famau. Not sure what the problem was: long high-pressure day at conference, or hayfever? Looks like I might be helping to organise this race next year, so it's a bit of a shame I couldn't bow out with a better performance!
Monday, June 17, 2013
Moel Siabod run
Peaks: Moel Siabod
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
After a few short climbs, we headed across the bridge near Plas y Brenin and started the long gradual climb through the woods to the open hill beyond. This gives very pleasant running, never too steep, although a few sharp rises on the open hill slowed progress a bit. We got to the summit in just under 40 minutes, to find the cloud base trying to lift from the summits of the Snowdon group and Carneddau. Nice panoramic views for John, which is what I'd intended. Jogged down to the car in Mymbyr in 20 minutes or so: a lovely descent, particularly after the summit scree slopes.
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
After a few short climbs, we headed across the bridge near Plas y Brenin and started the long gradual climb through the woods to the open hill beyond. This gives very pleasant running, never too steep, although a few sharp rises on the open hill slowed progress a bit. We got to the summit in just under 40 minutes, to find the cloud base trying to lift from the summits of the Snowdon group and Carneddau. Nice panoramic views for John, which is what I'd intended. Jogged down to the car in Mymbyr in 20 minutes or so: a lovely descent, particularly after the summit scree slopes.
Dyffryn Mymbyr Climbing
Crag: Clogwyn Wen/Blocks, Dyffryn Mymbyr
Routes: Holly Tree Buttress (VD:led), Slab and Crack (VD:led), Chatterbox (S:led)
I had promised John B a better experience of Eryri after his unfortunate hypothermia incident at Easter led to an even worse infection which stopped him running for months. He asked to be taken climbing for the first time ever, so we set off for the small crags near Plas y Brenin by way of an introduction before our planned mountain run. I've never done these routes before, as the crags are just short Peak-style outcrops really, but Holly Tree Buttress made a near perfect beginner's climb: very simple yet nicely varied. It was a bit damp, as low cloud was producing light drizzle, but a steep crack led to a pinnacle, then a little traverse to a crack. Pleasant easy climbing up this led to a juggy final face. John struggled a bit, and left a bit of gear behind, but seemed to enjoy it so we did a couple of short routes on the Blocks before heading off on our run. Chatterbox was a thrutchy route up a wide off-width crack, hardly ideal, and rather tough for the grade - although extremely short. We then jogged back to the car and started our run up Siabod.
Routes: Holly Tree Buttress (VD:led), Slab and Crack (VD:led), Chatterbox (S:led)
I had promised John B a better experience of Eryri after his unfortunate hypothermia incident at Easter led to an even worse infection which stopped him running for months. He asked to be taken climbing for the first time ever, so we set off for the small crags near Plas y Brenin by way of an introduction before our planned mountain run. I've never done these routes before, as the crags are just short Peak-style outcrops really, but Holly Tree Buttress made a near perfect beginner's climb: very simple yet nicely varied. It was a bit damp, as low cloud was producing light drizzle, but a steep crack led to a pinnacle, then a little traverse to a crack. Pleasant easy climbing up this led to a juggy final face. John struggled a bit, and left a bit of gear behind, but seemed to enjoy it so we did a couple of short routes on the Blocks before heading off on our run. Chatterbox was a thrutchy route up a wide off-width crack, hardly ideal, and rather tough for the grade - although extremely short. We then jogged back to the car and started our run up Siabod.
Wednesday, June 12, 2013
Bryn Alyn Orienteering
Race: Bryn Alyn Orienteering (Light Green, 3k+)
Time/Position: 39.41 (2nd from 9)
A second attempt at short-course orienteering, after my initial humiliating baptism at Erddig. I thought the open hill nature of this course, along with the fact that I know the area well (indeed I was racing across exactly the same ground last night!) might help me, but again I found it hard to adapt to the large scale and sheer level of detail on the map. It started off OK, with the first few checkpoints fairly easy to locate on the open hill east of Bryn Alyn, then a tricky one in a copse was followed by a long uphill leg which I managed quite easily. I was going well at this point, then became over-confident for the next long leg, which seemed straightforward but took a while to find (hidden under a crag). The next two proved tough, as I misjudged the scale of the map and went too far away for CP 7, then did the same for the 8th CP hidden below a crag. I concentrated for the final four on a long run-in, and finally adapted to the scale for a reasonably quick and efficient finale.
Time/Position: 39.41 (2nd from 9)
A second attempt at short-course orienteering, after my initial humiliating baptism at Erddig. I thought the open hill nature of this course, along with the fact that I know the area well (indeed I was racing across exactly the same ground last night!) might help me, but again I found it hard to adapt to the large scale and sheer level of detail on the map. It started off OK, with the first few checkpoints fairly easy to locate on the open hill east of Bryn Alyn, then a tricky one in a copse was followed by a long uphill leg which I managed quite easily. I was going well at this point, then became over-confident for the next long leg, which seemed straightforward but took a while to find (hidden under a crag). The next two proved tough, as I misjudged the scale of the map and went too far away for CP 7, then did the same for the 8th CP hidden below a crag. I concentrated for the final four on a long run-in, and finally adapted to the scale for a reasonably quick and efficient finale.
Tuesday, June 11, 2013
Up the Beast fell race
Race: Up the Beast (4.5m/1500ft)
Time/Position: 37:33 (8th from 90)
The local races all seem to be getting far tougher: there was a time when I was first Veteran at this race, but I can't see those days coming back again! As with last week, this event was dominated by the over 40s and I finished well down the field although my time was virtually identical to last year. I've done every one of these races since it was launched, six now I think, and always really enjoy it. This time, I started a little slowly as I have been feeling very tired since returning from Scotland and have done very little running. This tactic worked reasonably well, and I kept it going on the first climb via the 'Beast' to the limestone crags of Bryn Alyn. The little climbing sections are a novelty and, although I lost places on the descent to Big Covert, I regained them on the super-steep and very humid climb back to Bryn Alyn. A good descent of the Beast allowed me to pick up a couple more places through the woods: knee feeling fine now.
Time/Position: 37:33 (8th from 90)
The local races all seem to be getting far tougher: there was a time when I was first Veteran at this race, but I can't see those days coming back again! As with last week, this event was dominated by the over 40s and I finished well down the field although my time was virtually identical to last year. I've done every one of these races since it was launched, six now I think, and always really enjoy it. This time, I started a little slowly as I have been feeling very tired since returning from Scotland and have done very little running. This tactic worked reasonably well, and I kept it going on the first climb via the 'Beast' to the limestone crags of Bryn Alyn. The little climbing sections are a novelty and, although I lost places on the descent to Big Covert, I regained them on the super-steep and very humid climb back to Bryn Alyn. A good descent of the Beast allowed me to pick up a couple more places through the woods: knee feeling fine now.
Friday, June 07, 2013
Lliwedd climbing
Peak/Crag: Lliwedd East Buttress
Routes: Avalanche (VD: led p.1,3,5), Red Wall (HVD: led p.2), Longland's Continuation (HVD: led p.2)
The classic combination up Lliwedd's long East Buttress, and a glaring gap in my climbing CV for 25 years. It is essentially a 9 or 10 pitch (almost 300m) continuous slice of mountaineering: very few technical moves, but a great deal of route-finding, awkward rock and nice situations. A week of warm dry sunshine made the big, high cliffs almost compulsory: the ideal Lliwedd conditions. I drove down to Mymbyr to avoid the ludicrous fees of PyP, which was probably full anyway, and ran from the valley up past Pen y Gwryd to rejoin Vic and the sacs at the Pass: a nice loosener after last evening's race. The walk-in was a delight, warm breezes and fantastic clarity of light: Lliwedd's buttresses lit to perfection by the morning sun. It did take us the allotted hour, mind, so I pushed on up the first pitch - which is a pleasant groove allowing us to get reacquainted with Lliwedd's characteristic pinch and sloping holds. This took us into the shadows at the end of the Heather Shelf, and Vic then merged the enjoyable long rising traverse to easy slabs. This gave me the Quartz Wall, which gives a few brief awkward moves over blocky quartz to move right into a short groove. I belayed on the rib. Then came the first route-finding challenge: I had only bought a vague and inadequate topo by way of 'Alpine Training', as Lliwedd is notorious for its complexity and tricky navigation. As a result, Vic continued up the vegetated and loose groove - not very pleasant - up to a steeper wall. I followed through, easy scrambling, up to the Great Terrace and the end of Avalanche. The first pitch of Red Wall gives good climbing, up a groove to a steepening, then nice moves on good solid rock to gain a rib on the right. Great atmosphere above the terrace and shallow gully: the complexity and scale of the cliff very apparent at this point. The topo was virtually useless up here, so I continued (wrongly I suspect) up an obvious slab which gave slightly precarious climbing up dirty cracks and suspect flakes, vegetated in places, and meant I had to go above the Green Gallery to get a decent belay. A nice section of rock lies above, and Longland's Continuation is far more solid and very atmospheric high up on the crag: Vic led up a slab to a good clean rib and a series of easy cracks. This gave me the delightful final 40ft slab, the technical crux of the entire route at 4b, but very short-lived. It has the virtue of finishing on the sunny summit, and was a great way to finish. A long but beautifully sunny descent, and I ran from PyP back to the car in Mymbyr.
Routes: Avalanche (VD: led p.1,3,5), Red Wall (HVD: led p.2), Longland's Continuation (HVD: led p.2)
The classic combination up Lliwedd's long East Buttress, and a glaring gap in my climbing CV for 25 years. It is essentially a 9 or 10 pitch (almost 300m) continuous slice of mountaineering: very few technical moves, but a great deal of route-finding, awkward rock and nice situations. A week of warm dry sunshine made the big, high cliffs almost compulsory: the ideal Lliwedd conditions. I drove down to Mymbyr to avoid the ludicrous fees of PyP, which was probably full anyway, and ran from the valley up past Pen y Gwryd to rejoin Vic and the sacs at the Pass: a nice loosener after last evening's race. The walk-in was a delight, warm breezes and fantastic clarity of light: Lliwedd's buttresses lit to perfection by the morning sun. It did take us the allotted hour, mind, so I pushed on up the first pitch - which is a pleasant groove allowing us to get reacquainted with Lliwedd's characteristic pinch and sloping holds. This took us into the shadows at the end of the Heather Shelf, and Vic then merged the enjoyable long rising traverse to easy slabs. This gave me the Quartz Wall, which gives a few brief awkward moves over blocky quartz to move right into a short groove. I belayed on the rib. Then came the first route-finding challenge: I had only bought a vague and inadequate topo by way of 'Alpine Training', as Lliwedd is notorious for its complexity and tricky navigation. As a result, Vic continued up the vegetated and loose groove - not very pleasant - up to a steeper wall. I followed through, easy scrambling, up to the Great Terrace and the end of Avalanche. The first pitch of Red Wall gives good climbing, up a groove to a steepening, then nice moves on good solid rock to gain a rib on the right. Great atmosphere above the terrace and shallow gully: the complexity and scale of the cliff very apparent at this point. The topo was virtually useless up here, so I continued (wrongly I suspect) up an obvious slab which gave slightly precarious climbing up dirty cracks and suspect flakes, vegetated in places, and meant I had to go above the Green Gallery to get a decent belay. A nice section of rock lies above, and Longland's Continuation is far more solid and very atmospheric high up on the crag: Vic led up a slab to a good clean rib and a series of easy cracks. This gave me the delightful final 40ft slab, the technical crux of the entire route at 4b, but very short-lived. It has the virtue of finishing on the sunny summit, and was a great way to finish. A long but beautifully sunny descent, and I ran from PyP back to the car in Mymbyr.
Thursday, June 06, 2013
Deeside Off-Road Race
Race: Deestriders Off-Road Grand Prix Race 1 (4.6m)
Time/Position: 28.06 (5th from 75)
Lots of diary clashes preventing me from racing at present, so I seized the opportunity to give this four-race summer series a proper bash for the first time (having never managed more than one appearance in previous years). A nice warm evening, very dry underfoot, and a valuable work-out. I felt quite uncomfortable throughout, probably because I haven't raced or done any speedwork for over a month. Went off a little fast, and found myself battling it out for fifth place after a mile or two. My knee felt OK, but even though this course is flat - based on two big laps of playing fields and woodland - I lost ground as soon as the race left the tarmac. By the time I got to the return leg along a dyke by the side of the Dee, I was starting to blow a bit. But, given my lack of training and racing, I was quite pleased to finish 5th - although all the top five were over 40.
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