Glyder Fawr max

Peaks: Glyder Fawr

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

One way of maximising a mountain! After a light breakfast I set off running from Pant y Fron, with the vague intention of breaking 30 minutes to Pen y Pass. The last time I ran this way was probably the Snowdonia Marathon almost 20 years ago. I would be surprised if I did it more quickly then, as I felt quite good this morning. It is pretty steep in places, but conditions were good, dank and misty and empty of traffic at this hour in December. My companions got the bus from Nant Peris and we met at PyP (precisely 28 minutes from the hut) where I changed into my mountain clothes and put my road shoes in the sac they had brought up for me! A novel start, and then it was into the slog from PyP. This is boggy and quite unpleasant, most familiar to me from the descent on Pedol Peris (and the 1000s). It led to a rather icy summit with some old snow - very cold feet as I only had my fell running shoes on. A spectacular clearance over Nant Francon as we descended to Llyn y Cwn, then Emma, Peter and I dropped down direct to the Pass. This path is easy at first, then surprisingly awkward and steep - I had only taken it once before.

Pedol Marchlyn

Peaks: Carnedd y Filiast, Mynydd Perfedd, Elidir Fawr

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

The little horseshoe works perfectly as a pre-hut night outing, so I deployed it again today as I only had a few hours of daylight left on arrival in Deiniolen. I usually start from the village but this time drove up the Marchlyn road and started higher. From here, it is quick progress up the unsightly tarmac road towards the lakes. At the end, a steep curving climb gains the pass overlooking Ogwen. Then it was into the clag for the awkward rocky haul to Carnedd y Filiast, just over 40 minutes from the car. Then the flat jog across to Perfedd before taking the direct shortcut to Elidir. I lost enough height here to emerge from the cloudbase temporarily. From the summit I dropped down in a fairly direct line through the scree to gain the grassy lower slopes, which are very runnable and enjoyable. Around 1.20 for the circuit, and then another convivial evening at the hut.

Dash in the Dark

Race: Dash in the Dark, race 2

Time/Position: 28.25 (7th from 68)

As my fallow year comes to an end, I have eased off the races and sessions even more, but this little race always represents a decent lung-buster to jolt me out of my torpor. I have done many variations of these nighttime races over many years, since they started in fact, and today was different again. I would never be able to recreate any of them, such is the complexity of the Llandegla forest with all its twists, turns and micropaths. I started conservatively but did pick up quite a few places during the race, which is always a positive sign. And I enjoyed it, which is another. Excellent beer and chip butties at the Rose and Crown, as Storm Darragh began to gather force outside.

Callow

Race: Callow fell race (8.5k/880m)

Time/Position: 1.15.20 (29th from 68)

This must be a contender for the hardest short fell race in the UK. Long Mynd Valleys (which I've done twice) is the famous race in these parts, but that is much longer and takes a while to build up to its brutal climax. In contrast, Callow gets to grips with it immediately. Little Stretton is absurdly picturesque, and the race starts from the beautiful valley (Ashes Hollow) which I remembered from the South Mynd Tour, one of many Shropshire races I have done. Not Callow though, so it was nice to finally put that right. After a short run up the valley, the race kicks right up steep pathless terrain which doesn't relent until the top of Ashlet, which is so obvious from the village. We had a wonderful little weather window for the race, and the views from sunlit Ashlet over to Caer Caradoc were superb - a tough contouring descent led down to Townbrook before entering another of the tight valleys that characterise this area. Then comes a savage climb up the front of Yearlet, long and draining. The descent into the top part of Ashes Hollow sadly gives no respite as it is extremely steep and awkward. After a brief run along the valley bottom (some locals had better lines than me here) you are into the next climb, brutally steep up the eastern slopes of Grindle. This hill is appropriately named, and the attrition really kicks in on this grinding climb. Took a bad line on the descent alongside the leading lady, culminating in thickets of impenetrable gorse. A few minutes relief down a very tight and awkward valley led to the final climb up Callow, where I started to lose places in earnest. A fast finish from the top of Callow to the edge of Little Stretton. A very memorable outing, and it started to rain the second I crossed the finish line!

Cwm Glas horseshoe (classic)

Peaks: Crib Goch, Garnedd Ugain

Area: Yr Wyddfa, Eryri

A return to Cwm Glas four days after my last visit, although this time prospects for an inversion seemed even better. The opportunity to do Crib Goch in a full cloud inversion was too good to miss, so I headed up towards Cyrn Las then took the very faint paths that lead to the boggy ground above Dinas Mot. I was aiming for the North Ridge of Crib Goch, and eventually located the horrible steep scree that leads up to the ridge itself. The mist was very thick, the weather dank and dreary, but I was growing increasingly confident about the conditions. The North Ridge gets narrow at the top, narrower than Crib Goch proper in fact, and was greasy and damp in the clag. Then, at the exact moment I arrived on the summit, I poked through the cloud: an absolutely stunning moment, one of the most memorable single experiences I have had in almost 40 years in the Welsh mountains. From then on, the day was stupendous: the narrowest part of the ridge was clear, then a layer of cloud framed Yr Wyddfa and Garnedd Ugain beyond. The Glyderau poked through, but in all other directions a sea of cloud. Even more remarkably, because it was still early I had it all to myself. The early part of the ridge was truly unforgettable, as occasional wisps of mist lapped over me then dissipated. I took the crest to maximise the impact, then traversed the first pinnacle. The exposed move up the final pinnacle had only just emerged from the clag so was damper than the rest, and then it was briefly back into the mist at Bwlch Goch before emerging into the light. The remainder of the ridge to Garnedd Ugain was stunningly clear, the sun higher up now, Yr Wyddfa glistening above a bank of cloud. I had a tremendous brocken spectre, my shadow framed against the shadow of the ridge itself and projected onto the cloud bank with rainbow halo. After a memorable few minutes on top of Garnedd Ugain I jogged back towards the Cyrn Las ridge that I had ascended on Monday. A triple 'glory' at one point, projected onto the cloud bank where Llanberis would ordinarily have been. More amazing effects over Cwm Glas and then it was back into the damp clag down Cyrn Las with some wet scrambling initially. I've been visiting Eryri very regularly since 1988, hundreds if not thousands of outings, but this was right up there as one of the most memorable days I have ever had in the Welsh mountains.

Elidir Fawr

Peaks: Elidir Fawr

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

I had originally planned a short Lakes break this week, and the weather was looking promising, but in the end circumstances dictated a short outing after a dental appointment in Flint. So it was mid-afternoon by the time I set out for this 'speed' outing up Elidir from Dinorwic. It has been at last a decade since I last did Pedol Peris but I jogged along to start what I remembered of that route up Elidir, the twisting quarry road as opposed to the direct ramp up the cable. This went reasonably well, and I got to the open hill fairly quickly. The weather was glorious: blue skies and perfect clarity, and I was on the summit in 40 minutes. Then came the real business of the day, to try to set some kind of time for the direct descent from summit to road, if only because it is all so obvious from the Vags hut directly below. It is rocky and awkward at first, but then eases a little (although always steep) to grass and bog before the lower section down a track: a few seconds over 19 minutes and an effort I inevitably paid for with aching quads two days later. A painful hobble back through the quarries in beautiful low sunlight.

Cwm Glas horseshoe

Peaks: Garnedd Ugain, Yr Wyddfa

Area: Snowdon, Eryri

Another of my crowd-avoiding variants up Snowdon, this was really just an attempt to give myself a cloud inversion opportunity. It is a game of chance, however, and I didn't win today (despite the fact that superb conditions prevailed a day or two ago). The Cyrn Las ridge is always a nice option, I remember first doing it in the 1980s when it felt like we were pioneers of the route. It is a bit more popular these days, indeed some people call it the Cwm Glas ridge, which isn't a bad description either, although I think of it as the former given the prominence of that crag as you ascend. I was tired after yesterday's race so it was slow, plodding progress into the mist. Sadly that mist stayed thick all the way up the ridge, through the scrambly sections, and up Garnedd Ugain. No hope of a clearance, but I carried on to the top of Snowdon anyway - no inversion, just damp clag, so I scampered down the Pyg track, tiring badly, and then cut down the craggy hillside towards Dinas Cromlech. There's a reason few people do this - it has several awkward crags and is generally arduous, but it does effectively cut the corner avoiding Pen y Pass.

Delamere trail half

Race: Delamere trail half marathon

Time/Position: 1.32.29 (4th from 479 [1st V50])

After winning my category at the Nantwich 10k a couple of years ago, I have kept something of a streak going: with prizes of a free entry to any of the RunThrough events, I followed up with more age category wins at the Ladybower Trail half and then the Carsington Water Trail half. This was in the same mould but much closer to home in Delamere. As with all these races, there's a large field of leisure runners but the routes are actually really good and very enjoyable. Some of the racing pressure is off, and I am still cogniscent of the fact this is my fallow year, so I took it gently, at least at first for the spiralling climb up Old Pale. From the top, no time to enjoy the views on a rather murky but mild and still autumn day. The route then commences on a tortuous route through various sections of Delamere, much of which was familiar, much of which wasn't. From the top, it headed down familiar tracks towards Manley Common, occasionally on the Sandstone Trail route, and then it curved back east towards Hatchmere before looping Blakemere Moss, like the parkrun, before another tortuous detour led to the finish. It was enjoyable throughout, quite muddy in places, steep in others, twisting in others. I gradually made my way through the field, and was alone at the end, although well behind third place.

British fell relays (Yorkshire Dales)

Race: Fell Relays leg 3 (12k/600m)

Time/Position: 1.45 (98th)

Back at the fell relays for the first time since 2017 or 2018, captaining Buckley's team this year. A beautiful location for it, at Appletreewick in Wharfedale, and a very enjoyable day for our team of six. That said, Huw was carrying an injury for our nav leg and really suffered, and we did finish much lower down the field than in our previous six times at the event (I have been the only 'ever present' since our first when it came to the Clwydians in 2007). It's always great to watch the top teams finish their legs, and it was particularly spectacular this year as the start and finish was up a brutally steep hill. Andy, Bonj and Simon had got us off to a good start on legs one and two. The day had brightened up after a dank and claggy start and was now superbly clear, luckily enough for us on the navigation leg. The start headed up the very steep hill common to all legs, before picking up the map at a farmhouse and then heading off across featureless moorland to the first checkpoint. The terrain was hard, minimal climbing but tussocky and boggy underfoot. We headed towards the fence a little too early but corrected ourselves and then headed to distant checkpoint two, right out to the north. This was hidden in a sinkhole, but we'd already seen checkpoint three near a small lake so picked that up easily before the long next leg - for which we took a good line contouring awkward terrain to drop down into the steep valley of the Dibb. A really steep descent - indeed all of this terrain was a nightmare for Huw, who was really struggling to maintain any kind of pace. Then came an extremely steep climb back out and a long circuitous section to pick up the three or four checkpoints around the Dibb valley. Moving slowly but at least we got our lines bang on, and then it was a cruel out-and-back over Kail hill, awful again for Huw but we had no real choice aside from lower contouring, before finishing back down the steep descent. Our worst ever team performance but still a really enjoyable day, complete with chilli and local pale ale in the barn, and then a pint at the superb Craven Arms.

Eirias Park XC

Race: Eirias Park, North Wales XC League 1 (8.3k)

Time/Position: 33.42 (45th from 152)

Despite the lowly position, this was a rather pleasing performance and very enjoyable by cross-country standards: the first fixture of the new season. I had never done the course before, and it takes three and a half large loops round the edge of Eirias Park with sea views in places. I was relatively conservative, mindful of my total lack of recent training in my rest year, but was pleased to find I had decent legs and felt reasonably strong. I moved slowly through the field albeit well off the pace, and almost caught Jez at the end. Surprisingly dry underfoot and a classic XC course with a great blend of steep hills, woods and fields.

Runcorn BL

Race: Norton Priory 5m (Border League race 1)

Time/Position: 30.07 (79th from 440)

With no designs on trying to retain my V50 title from last season, this was just a case of making up the numbers. So I was pleased to be 8th scorer for Buckley, as I really felt the lack of training on this one. It started in Norton Priory on the edge of Runcorn then ran around old tracks to gain the canal which was familiar to me as it is also taken by the Phoenix parkrun. I felt quite fresh at the start, which was unusually frantic, a downhill pelt through mud on a very narrow path. Staying upright was key, and the paths remained fairly tight for the size of field. Later, the canal led to a reverse of the parkrun route and then a second lap, on which I really felt the pace but didn't completely blow. Way down the field, and only good enough for 5th V50, but perhaps not as bad as I had feared.

Chester parkrun

'Race': Chester parkrun

Time/Position: 18.52 (11th from 372)

As with everything else this fallow year, I don't want to atrophy completely so thought I should do the parkrun by way of a range finder before next weekend's border league opener. I didn't time the event or look at my watch, so was pleasantly surprised to go under 19, not too bad given that I have been resting from racing since March.

King John's Castle

Race: King John's Castle fell race

Time/Position: 51.01 (4th from 46)

A route change this year marked Amanda's first year of organising it. This added a considerable amount of climbing to what was previously a fast and runnable course. I've only done it twice before, finishing second in 2015 and third in 2022, so this was very much on trend! The usual opening climb towards Moel Gyw, then the always enjoyable descent before contouring round the side of Moel y Plas before heading straight up the eastern slopes of that hill, completely pathless. A small group of three formed, and I descended reasonably well before struggling on the steep OD climb to the col below Moel Gyw. A decent descent and then it was just the flat-out road blast to the finish, with me around half a minute in front of 5th, but well behind 3rd.

Elidir Fawr

Peaks: Elidir Fawr

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

Another gourmet night at the hut, but I didn't really fancy climbing in the Pass with limited time this afternoon, so Steve and I set off for this short outing up Elidir from the front door of Pant y Fron. We adopted a loping stride/slow jog pace up to Twill Mawr (where a team were on the astonishing Quarryman). Then we took the cableway slab/incline thing all the way to the top of Australia. This is steep and leads to slate steps, really atmospheric, a unique way of gaining lots of height. I'd done it before, but this felt fairly quick. Then we joined the Pedol Peris route up the grass, and up to Elidir Fach before taking the ridge (which I rarely do) to the true summit, where I waited for Steve in cold and windy conditions, the cloud base just flirting with the top. Always one of my favourite views. We then descended direct to the hut, superbly satisfying, down one of Snowdonia's most notorious slogs (a crucial part of the 3000s as well as the Elidir race). I don't think I have ever descended this before, and it is surprisingly comfortable: 28 minutes from summit back to the hut at a very gentle jog.

Swakopmund running

After arrival in Namibia almost a week ago, we walked to the end of the little ridge above Sasa Safari Lodge in a wonderful location outside Outjo. After three days in Etosha (including a 5k run round the Okakuejo camp) we made our way down to the Atlantic Coast where the temperatures were 20C+ cooler than the interior! So I took advantage today with an 11k run through the unusual (to say the least) town of Swakopmund, returning along the coast, struck by the extreme contrast between its manicured neatness and the nearby Skeleton Coast.

Carneddau from Gerlan

Peaks: Yr Elen, Carnedd Llewellyn

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

The forecast this morning was grim, so I was planning a short outing above Aber. But driving into Conwy it seemed far better, windy and cool with cloud around the tops, but dry. So I carried on and parked at Gerlan where I had a vague plan to go up Yr Elen from Bethesda (up the west ridge rather than down it). Up the familar lanes to the boggy track up into Cwm Llafar, and then across the bog towards the end of the Elen ridge at Foel Ganol. This does become very steep in places, particularly towards the top, but it emerges right on the summit (less than an hour from Gerlan). Windy and cold, with cloud playing around the tops, but I felt reasonably good and it seemed rude not to continue to Llewellyn, so I did. Nicely down the ridge and then a direct line to the summit in 10 minutes or so. Light mist on the top, which I had to myself again. Then down the normal Carneddau motorway towards the Black Ladders before breaking off for the pathless descent into the top of Cwm Llafar. This is a superb place, and I emerged right below Ysgolion Duon/Black Ladders, looking up to the two winter gully climbs I have done here (Central and Eastern) with a slight shudder (we did Central Gully in dreadful conditions in January 2010). Ahead, Llech Ddu and its spur. It must be one of the best locations in Eryri, and it would be nice to camp here some time. The run down to Gerlan was into a headwind, but quite enjoyable at a sustainable jog. Back to the bunkhouse around 1.55 after starting, which didn't seem too bad for 14k/1000m or so, given how boggy it is in places.

Rhydycroesau fell race

Race: Rhydycroesau fell race (5.5m/800ft)

Time/Position: 38.11 (6th from 37)

Surprisingly perhaps, I have stuck to the ethos of the 'fallow year', this being my first race since the start of July. As such, I was quite pleased to feel reasonably good (although completely lacking any speed) for this runnable event, more of a trail race than a fell race. I did the previous incarnation of the Rhydycroesau race many years ago - from memory it was similar in style but went up the opposite side of the valley. This new version leaves the delightful village show and heads up little lanes to a track passing the England-Wales border stone. Above this is the highpoint of the race above the Pen y Gwely reservoir. Then after a little loop it rejoins the ascent for a fast descent back to the show. K and E had joined me, so we walked to Cefn Canol for a warm down.

Foel Lwyd

Peaks: Foel Lwyd

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

Since my embarrassingly recent 'discovery' of Nant y Coed above Llanfairfechan I have resolved to make up for years of neglect by exploring the routes up onto the Carneddau from here. This was just a short outing but excellent, taking part of the coast path which we did last December. It more or less reversed that route, climbing up the hillside from Terrace Walk, rounding Carreg Fawr, and emerging at familiar territory, the Drum crossroads onto the Roman Road. This is easy angled up to Bwlch y Ddaefaen, after which I ploughed up the very steep climb to Foel Lwyd (which is always embedded in my memory as the last real climb of our 'Sea to Sea' in 2018). It was hard today too, and I had no wish to extend to Tal y Fan. The weather was better than forecast, a few light spots of drizzle. After the steep descent I cut down to the valley of the Afon Ddu which leads all the way down to Nant y Coed but is tortuous at the top, with no real human path through the gorse. Below, it gets better, and quite beautiful as it descends to the native woodland with the Menai Strait beyond.

Malpas 100m loop

It must be at least nine years since my last 'imperial century' ride, but as this was always intended to be one of my intermittent 'cycling years' I didn't want to end it without at least one 100 miler. That said, aware of that time gap since the last one and my general lack of cycling prowess, I knew it had to be flat. And there was another concept at play today - I wanted to do a form of time trial for the first 50k, and keep this going to a lesser extent until 50 miles had been done (and then just keep going at a slower pace). It all worked perfectly and ideal conditions helped too. I left home before 7am for the familiar start to Saltney Ferry and then on to the westbound cycle path to Shotton. Then all the way through Blacon to the end of the cycle path in Guilden Sutton before starting south through Waverton to Aldford and then Farndon, where I notched up the 50k in 1.55. I was desperate for a wee, so lost time doing that before heading up the surprisingly lengthy climb to Malpas, the far-end of the planned route. Back down the hill to Bangor, where (after notching up 50 miles in a little over 3 hours) I finally stopped properly for cheese sarnies and a drink at the co-op. Nice riding through to Holt, although I didn't stop at this traditional cycling crossroads, instead heading for home via Rossett and the climb to Shordley. Having no wish to fully extend the route into the hills, I then cycled into Westminster Park for a pastry, and back onto the cycle path from Sealand Road. Another loop, all the way round to Blacon and then Saltney Ferry before finally notching up the imperial century in 6.30 with some extra bits along familiar home roads.

Tremadog climbing

Routes: Scratch (VS 4b.4c:sec), Great Western/The Quakermen/Peutery combination (HVS 5a, 4a:sec)

Crag: Craig Pant Ifan, Tremadog

When it comes to climbing, I am not so much rusty as entirely corroded, having done hardly any since Covid. So I was inevitably a passenger today, although it was still an enjoyable outing with Peter and Vic. We started off with the standard VS of Scratch, nicely delicate on the first pitch (which I have led before), then a contrastingly steep and awkward crack, which i followed Peter up. After abbing down for lunch, we did a combination of three routes further left. I may well have done this combo before too: I've certainly done Great Western before. I followed Vic up this - a muddy groove leads to twin cracks. I found these very awkward indeed, particularly as it was a bit damp. Then an easing before another hard and steep corner leads to a stance on Poor Man's Peuterey, which I have done at least twice. It was quite breezy for the wonderful step right on to the arete, aided by huge holds, and then the delightful easy slab to the top. Felt weak and unconfident throughout, inevitable really, and there was no chance of me leading anything. But it was a nice day, and we finished with a pint at the excellent Pengwern in Ffestiniog.

Conwy-Chester+ ride

An attempt to link the region's best pubs, going from Conwy to Chester via an indirect 'interior' route (although I didn't actually go in any of them!). Another time, perhaps, for the wet version. Joining Kate on her commute, I set off from Bodlondeb at 8.30am, going across the river and then up through Junction to Mochre and Colwyn Bay via Pabo Lane. Then the delightful riding along the seafront with a light tailwind all the way to Rhyl. The weather was ideal, less hot than of late, but dry with light south-westerlies. I went through the middle of Rhyl for the first time in years, and then through Rhuddlan to a break for a pie at St Asaph Greggs! If the bike could talk, it would no doubt remark on the fairly extreme contrast between the Tourmalet, Lers, Aspin etc, less than a fortnight ago, and certain parts of today's route. Then it was Lower Denbigh Road up the 'S Bends' (again for the first time in decades, it used to be my school bus journey). From Bodfari, I took the peaceful lanes all the way to Llanbedr DC passing the Golden Lion in Llangynhafal (a bit of a headwind throughout). Then comes the route's main climb up the hairpins to the Clwyd Gate, like a miniature Pyrenean col, although ruined by roadworks today. From the top, it is easy down to the side road to Llanarmon yn Ial, and then undulating down the lovely lanes (via the Rose and Crown) to Treuddyn. Then came the fast descent and little climb to Penyffordd. I stopped off at home for a brief refuel and then took Lache Lane into Handbridge. At the Old Dee Bridge (close to the Tap), I turned south for Eccleston into a mild headwind. Down to Pulford and then over the border to Lavister and home: 110k, just under 1000m ascent, just over four hours, very varied.

Tryfan

Peaks: Tryfan

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

Third time lucky for EE on Tryfan, and we chose a very nice morning albeit a little too hot and humid at times. We took the steep climb into Cwm Tryfan, then walked up to join the side path which leads up to Bwlch Tryfan. From here, I think she enjoyed the occasional little scrambly steps which lead up to the tiny ridge below the summit. It is never quite the same route twice. A fairly crowded summit, which displeased her, but we had a nice break before descending via the direct scree path to Llyn Bochlwyd and then curving round towards Milestone Buttress. A helicopter was ferrying rocks presumably to improve the path here, which has always been muddy and is now becoming increasingly wide and eroded.

Plo del Naou

Peaks: Plo del Naou (1754m)

Area: Aspin, Pyrenees

The strange name of this summit is presumably a prime example of the local dialect. This was just a short 8k jog from the Col d'Aspin but a wonderful way to finish the trip. There seemed the prospect of getting above the mist (the col was enveloped as I had my coffee) a classic Pyrenees cloud inversion, but I couldn't have hoped for a more perfect set of circumstances. I took a jogging approach and was up in less than 30 minutes. A broad ridge leads to a grassy and delightful summit ridge and I could see telltale signs of the sun trying to break through the mist. Just below the top, I broke through. A stunning bank of cloud over the Aure valley with the high peaks of the Bearn and the Spanish frontier crystal clear above: quite incredible. I have been lucky enough to experience cloud inversions quite a few times, and can still remember the thrill when we broke through the mist on our first visit to the Pyrenees in 1993, but it is always wonderful and memorable. Ahead, the Montfaucon was impressive, with a picturesque flock of sheep with their clanging bells in the foreground. I descended towards the Horquette and then picked up a contouring path to complete a little loop and rejoin the ascent above the col. Then came the drive home, in one continuous and lengthy journey (two short naps!). Including the Auvergne, the French trip encompassed 20 different summits, six of which were Pyrenean 3000ers done in the last week. It also encompassed seven (or 6.5) major Tour cols (Aspin, Tourmalet, Port, Lers, Azet, Ancizan) and four minor ones earlier in the trip. More notably, between 11,000 and 12,000 metres of elevation gain (on foot and bike) since last Wednesday, perhaps 38,000ft.

Horquettes d'Ancizan ride

I really was tiring by now, and had sealed the bike away in the van. But after a magnificent lunch and coffee I began to think I might have one more col in me. Imprudent, perhaps, but at least I sensibly chose the easiest option - the Horquettes d'Ancizan from the Payolle side, which I felt would be the kind of tranquil and relatively gentle climb I could handle in my compromised state. The Horquettes essentially runs parallel to the Aspin and is a more recent addition to the Tour but I had loved my visits to the meadows of Payolle and my night on the Col d'Aspin so thought a revisit would make a great coda to the trip. So I drove over and started up through the meadows of Payolle. As it was mid-afternoon, it was now very hot and the sweat poured off me as the road kicked up through beautiful woodland. Above the woods, the sun beat down and I had to stop briefly - even on relatively gentle slopes. Above, a hairpin looked steep. As it happened, it got easier above the hairpin and I had something of a second wind. Then came a short but welcome descent to the upper pastures with fabulous views up to the Pic de Montfaucon. Ultra tranquil riding remained, steepish in places but generally steady up to the Horquette itself (apparently a local name for 'col'). Nice views down to the valleys on both sides, and up to the gentle hill I planned to do tomorrow morning (Plo del Naou). A relaxed and comfortable descent down to a rather muddy and shallow river bath before heading back up to the Col d'Aspin, where I coincidentally found myself parked right next to Sian and Dafydd Roberts from Coed y Brenin.

Peyresourde-Col d'Azet ride

Back on the bike this morning. I was spoiled for choice, as you might expect in one of the global epicentres of cycling. As I kept seeing TdF signs for the Col d'Azet I thought I should incorporate it. After another nice night between the two rivers in Fabian, I started off after coffee and croissant in St Lary for an easy, relaxing start along the valley to Arreau. I turned right towards the Peyresourde, a famous TdF col, frequently used, and another one of my target climbs. This takes some time to properly get going, and by the time it did I was already tiring. It is not particularly hard, but after the first third of it (or a little more), just below Loudervielle, I took a side road towards Genos. Magnificent views up to the mountains at the head of the valley, with the Col d'Azet obviously a hard and steep climb to get back to St Lary. My decision to curtail the Peyresourde was vindicated as I was clearly starting to feel the effects of the last few days. As it turned out, Col d'Azet is notoriously steep, an archetypal Pyrenean col. From Genos it looms up fairly savagely, with consistently steep and tight 10% hairpins that go on for some time, multiple switch-backs. Fortunately, however, it is fairly short, and after the treeline it levelled out a little. The view back to the Peyresourde was exhilarating, and the col itself was a superb place to be in yet more glorious weather. It is a very well defined high col, with views to the mountains ahead and down to the deep valleys on both sides. After a break, I pelted down to St Lary, another wonderful experience retracing Tour steps. This starts fast but then has some very awkwardly steep and tight sections as it passes through little villages (like Azet itself) en route back to St Lary. In time for lunch again - this time it was tuna cake, pork with pepper sauce and profiteroles. This restored enough energy for me to at least consider an additional late afternoon ride.

Neouville peaks

Peaks: Pic d'Estaragne (3006m), Pic de Campbieil (3173m), Pic de Lentilla (3157m)

Area: Neouville Massif, Pyrenees

The concept behind this Pyrenees trip was to alternate cycling with basic mountaineering, and so it was up into the Neouville Massif for a bit of the latter this morning, a corner of the Pyrenees that I had never visited. I knew in advance that the obvious problem with the concept is that the two disciplines are just too similar (in terms of physical demands) to allow for much recovery. When I have done mountain trips with Vic or Steve we typically alternate mountaineering days with low level rock climbing, which is a much more sensible balance. That said, I felt fine today, not too tired at all despite the altitude. I drove from Fabian up into the Neouville Massif, a stunningly beautiful national park, in stupendous weather - almost impossible clarity of light, zero haze and not a cloud in the sky. I had coffee and a light breakfast from my van (I parked well below Lac Long right next to the start of the route up the first peak, Pic d'Estarange) and then started off. The route heads into the deep valley of the Ruisseau d'Estarange with Pic Mechant towering above. A delightful place of wild flowers, streams and meadows. At the top, a steep climb led into a hidden upper valley, a much wilder place with empty bowls of rock and moraines all around. A complex climb led up to the right, steeply, before traversing back left below rather loose looking walls (I saw a small rock fall at one point). The Estaragne ridge line was high above, but the route continued traversing until climbing awkward scree and a few slabby scrambling steps to move back right to gain a very shallow arete up to the summit. At the other end of the arete, the Grand Pic des Alharisses was impressive although lower. From the summit of Estarange, a stupendous view of the next peak, Campbieil, with multi-coloured rock and a classical pyramidal shape plunging down to verdant meadows far below. Memorable. It was also clearly much higher, and in fact the descent to the col was far easier than it looked, with minimal descent (although very steep). At the col, an easy contouring path takes the scree well to the right of the NE ridge crest. It then moves left to a smooth slab, fortunately at a very gentle angle. Above this, steep but easy terrain led with surprising ease to the summit. With a circuit of this kind I was mildly concerned about the nature of the descent on the other side of Campbieil but on the summit all concerns evaporated as it was obvious that fairly gentle scree slopes led down towards Lac Long. And the view was just superb - a grandstand seat looking towards the Haute Pyrenees, some of the famous peaks I had climbed in the past clearly identifiable. Monte Perdido (which I haven't done) behind the instantly recognisable cleft of the Breche du Roland and Le Taillon (which I have). Further right, the Vignemale and Balaitous resplendent, both of which I can remember as if it was yesterday (actually it was 1997). Perfect clarity and a really memorable view, as were the plunging cliffs down to Pla d'Adet and the valley I'd been staying in. Across the upper scree bowl, Pic Long looked magnificent but also loose! I decided to nip across to the subsidiary peak of Lentilla for a view back to Campbieil. Also brilliant, with even closer views of the high mountains across the valley and into Spain. As with Verdeguer, it is often the case that these satellite peaks look notable from a certain valley or viewpoint and therefore have their own names and identity despite the ease with which they can be included. After a snack I commenced the scree descent which was as easy and quick as it looked. But it still proved deceptive. As the ex-glacial bowl levelled out, the route became complex and hard to follow. It eventually led to a beautiful meadow with coalescing streams and then a drop to gain amazing views of Lac Long which was the deepest blue imaginable, Pic de Neouville rising above into a flawless blue sky. Lac Long was then a constant and almost impossibly scenic companion as the return route negotiated it by traversing high above it. This often proves trickier than expected and that was definitely the case today - it was long, complex and arduous with lots of rises and drops to gain the far side of the lake where the car park is. It took far longer than expected and was a tiring way to finish, especially as I still had some way to go back to the van. It was very busy up in the massif by now, but fortunately I was just in time for a late lunch back down in Fabian and refuelled splendidly on Pyrenean Garbure soup, Duck parmentier and fromage blanc with myrtilles.

Col du Tourmalet-Col d'Aspin ride

Hallowed ground, the greatest arena in sport (and I say that having been to the Maracana this year!) so this was quite an exciting day and one of my main objectives. I spent a memorable night at the Col d'Aspin itself watching the mist roll in and the weather constantly changing (with an artisan beer from neaby Arreau, which was en fete yesterday evening celebrating the local gateau a la broche). The roads were still damp this morning so I took my time down to my intended base for the two climbs in St Marie de Campan. After a snack, I set off up the Tourmalet, always an electrifying moment as you pass the TdF signpost detailing the climb's statistics. Around 3k in, I felt the telltale thud of my back wheel bottoming out: puncture! I had been carrying a little sac on these climbs so changed into trainers and plodded all the way back to the van for repairs as I wanted to do the climb properly from the bottom. I had never actually repaired a puncture on the Scott, but it went OK and then I set off again, a little later than planned but the advantage was that the weather was now absolutely stunning, crystal clarity after yesterday's rain and not too hot. The Tourmalet starts fairly mildly, and soon gives glimpses of what is to come. And then it comes, relentless 8% slopes through the forest to a steep and lengthy hairpin, followed by a horrible grippy drag up to the ski resort of La Mongie (the Tourmalet road surface was OK but not like the manicured perfection of the Col d'Aspin, which I was expecting). The 2km below La Mongie was, for me, the crux, and the fairly cruel gearing on the Scott really showed itself. I say this because, in my two previous TdF col cycling trips. (2011 and 2014) I never really found anything difficult, including the Ventoux, Madeleine, Galibier and so on, partly because I rode them on my old triple. The Scott had nothing like this to drop into, and so it was pretty hard. After a short easier section, the road kicks up again through La Mongie and stays at 9% or so for the final 4-5k up the exposed and oft-photographed hairpins to the summit (90m). The col itself is just a magical place for a Tour fan (I have watched it every year since it came onto C4 in the 1980s). Hundreds of cyclists from all over the world, immediate recognition. The perfect clarity of the weather helped too - it is over 2200m high, so the views were stunning, particularly down the western side which is probably more scenic and very slightly easier (although I believe there isn't much in it). I should perhaps have gone into the iconic cafe but instead took numerous photos and then took on the rapid descent all the way down to St Marie de Campan. I had a bite to eat at the van and then started out in the opposite direction towards the Col d'Aspin. This is definitively the easier side of the Aspin, but it is still a long climb, initially up shallow gradients to the beautiful pastures around Payolle. Above Payolle, it actually gets quite steep - over 10% in several places - and was obviously tiring after the Tourmalet. The surface was the best I have ever experienced, however, perfect smooth tarmac, and the climb is not that long. It was great to pull onto the col, particularly as I had spent the night there - and the contrast from mist and drizzle to dazzling sunshine was incredible. I am not a confident descender but even I was able to open out a little on the way back to St Marie, and it was pretty fast lower down. I decided to stop for a late lunch near the pastures of Payolle, where there are numerous restaurants and had local ham and cheese in a panini while I gazed up to the Horquettes d'Ancizan. I then drove down to the Aure valley, later than planned, and spent the night near Fabian rather than up in the Neouville as I'd intended. This wasn't an issue, however, as I had a lovely evening picnic in a perfect campsite away from the road (to the Bielsa border tunnel, very close) with rivers on both sides.

Pic de Fontanette

Peaks: Pic de Fontanette (2002m)

Area: Ariege, Pyrenees

I was planning to camp at the Port de Lers but storms were forecast so I prudently stayed in the valley at the same site near the bouldering. The storms took a while to arrive, and it is always disorientating in steep-sided valleys as you can often see near-constant lightning but not hear very much unless it is right overhead. It was a fairly interrupted night's sleep, and the temperature had dropped by almost 25c when I woke up (not an exaggeration, mid 30s to single figures). It was dank and misty in Vicdessos so I had cafe, local yoghurt and croissant at a delightful deli while I pondered my options. The rain had stopped, so I decided to go back up the Port de Lers and see how far I could get on the grassy ridge that lies above, where three peaks seemed doable. It was still dry when I set off in thermals, shell, hat and gloves - all quite a contrast! I was soon into the mist, and it felt like the Beacons or Yorkshire Dales. Higher up, it started to rain, horizontal stinging blasts which further reminded me of home. I decided to sack it after the first peak (Fontanette) - which had a pleasant and quite narrow ridge leading to it. I scampered back down to the Port de Lers and tried to dry off at the Etang de Lers, looking very different from yesterday. Inevitably it started to clear as I drove to Massat but I still felt it was the right decision - a transition day and a semi-rest day (although I had rather stupidly done well over 500m of ascent in 'fell race style' up to Pic de Fontanette in 30 minutes). After a superb chicken tart from a Massat Deli (it was almost uncomfortably cold outside) I drove via a St Gaudens coffee to Aurelle, and then the Col d'Aspin, where I spent a misty and atmospheric night. The weather remained unstable all day.

Port de Lers-Col de Port ride

After a very successful start summiting six splendid peaks, it was time for the bike to come out. I had a few options, wanting to do some famous Tour climbs, but eventually settled for a modestly challenging 75k/1500m loop from my camping spot near Laramade. I left fairly early, deep blue skies above and still the potential for very high temperatures, and took it easy to Vicdessos, from where the climb up to the Port de Lers begins. This was taken by the Tour a week or so ago, and the signs and graffiti were in place. It is a typical Pyrenean climb, the cliche being that instead of the consistent gradients of the Alps, the climbs here tend to rear up then flatten out making it hard to maintain a rhythm. The steep bits tend to be steeper, and having done quite a few of the classic TdF climbs in the Alps I would agree. In the case of the Port de Lers, the steepest sections are right at the start out of Vicdessos, after which it eases for a bit. It stays in woodland, reminiscent of Nant Gwynant, beautifully verdant and lush, before a sharp hairpin takes you into high open meadows with views opening out to the south and west. I really enjoyed the climb, probably my favourite of all the Tour climbs I did on this trip, and even the steeper gradients at the top were no problem. The Port de Lers itself is tranquil and pastoral, closer in ambience to the Croix Morand I did in the Auvergne to the higher cols that were to come. The descent was stupendously brilliant, even though I am always very cautious - just wonderful cycling down to the beautiful Etang de Lers and a junction with the Col d'Agnes. I ignored this in favour of continuing the descent to Massat. This was just as enjoyable, down the valley of the River Arac which was delightful, through little villages like Le Port. There was some gravelly bits but it was generally ideal - and I had been anticipating 'undulations' into the Couserans. Massat turned out to be shabby-chic and bourgeois, not an easy place for a quick snack. I had a lion bar and a fanta from a newsagent which fortified me for the Col de Port. I knew this was a long climb, but also a fairly easy one with steady and gentle 6% gradients for most of it. This climb has often featured on the Tour as it is a major through route between the Couserans and Ariege valleys (first used in the 1940s). I was tiring a little and the heat was building, but I enjoyed it, and got views over yesterday's peaks. It all had that very exciting Tour atmosphere, and it was another fast descent into Tarascon. Through the town, a little busy, and then the undulating drag back to the campsite and a welcome plunge into the Ariege (after some more bouldering). A superb little 75k loop over two famous cols, with around 1500m of climbing.

Montcalm-Estats

Peaks: Pic du Montcalm (3077m), Pica d'Estats (3143m), Pic de Verdaguer (3129m)

Area: Ariege, Pyrenees

Estats is on the border with Spain and is therefore the Catalonian highpoint. As a result, half the residents of the Pinet hut were Catalan or Spanish, heading up to this special summit. Strangely enough, I have also done Pedraforca, which also has some significance as an iconic symbol of Catalan nationhood. Whatever its wider symbolism, Pica d'Estats is a major Pyrenean peak and one that I was delighted to add to my list of Pyrenees mountains built up very intermittently over 31 years since my ascent of Pic du Midi with Stee in 1993! Pic du Montcalm came first, however, but not before a weather scare. I spent the night on the floor of the hut - such was the crowding that I just dragged my mattress to a space below the window. That said, I slept well and was only woken by an annoying alarm by a fellow dorm dweller. Peering out of the window, I was amazed and alarmed to find it raining, with a strong wind blowing and threatening cloud. Over breakfast, however, the verdict seemed to be that it would clear between 9am and midday, and these peaks are well tracked out, popular and not serious despite their altitude. So I set off with a fair amount of optimism, and felt pretty good despite yesterday's rigours. The route takes the left-hand side of the dramatic narrow valley (Ruisseau d'Estats) which plunges down to the hut from the superbly situated Etang d'Estats, surrounded by peaks, Sottlo being particularly impressive. The route then climbs steeply left to an even tighter valley, this time containing the glacial lake of the Etang de Montcalm. Above, the Point du Montcalm was an impressive spire. But the main route then became complex, weaving up tricky terrain to some snowfields and then an easier upper cwm to a major col between the two peaks. Superb views down to the eastern valleys and south into Catalonia. Altitude kicks in for me around the 3000m mark, and today was no exception. But the weather was ideal - high milky cloud, cold but not too cold, and no rain. The ascent of Montcalm is easy, steep to the east but generally quite rounded. From the summit, great views east over a standard Pyrenees cloud inversion. I had the summit to myself, always special, and made my way back to the col where I immediately began to climb up Estats. This has a tiny scrambling section, and Estats is generally a more shapely summit. A vague ridge leads to a mini col, and then shaley scrambling up to a spire-like summit, which again I had to myself. A fantastic place to be, and a great mountain. Stunning views in all directions, as this is a very prominent mountain, much higher than most of its surroundings, befitting its status. Back at the mini-col, I took in the prominent subsidiary peak which turned out to be Pic de Verdaguer (from most angles, Estats is a triple-pointed mountain with three different summits). This gave a great view back to the main top. I passed the couple from Valencia that I'd shared a table with the night before, and they pronounced themselves impressed by my speed! I really enjoyed the descent back to the hut, passing most of the hut residents on their way up as the weather cleared to blue skies and temperatures climbed considerably (I had been in coat and hat all morning). After a very short rest and drink at the hut, I took a different and much better descent to the valley. I headed initially to the little shepherds hut at Etang Sourd, then took the steep descent to regain the ascent route just above the treeline. The rest was a little tiring but fine down to L'Artigue where I had a superb river bath before heading back to Tarascon. I later camped next to the bouldering in Laramade. I had my rock shoes, and this place was almost a mini Fontainebleau. As usual, however, the discipline of bouldering just leaves me a little cold. I did a few easy problems then retired for tea.

Pic de St Barthelemy, Girabal, hut walk

Peaks: Pic de St Barthelemy (2348m),  Pic de Girabal (2169m)

Area: Ariege, Pyrenees

St Barthelemy is very notable as it emerges from the Ariege plains beyond Mirepoix. It made an obvious initial objective, and the morning dawned crystal clear with some serious heat starting to build. I was very conscious of not burning all my matches too early so adopted a sustainable pace to escape the ski developments and gain the unspoiled terrain surrounding the Etangs de Fage Belle, a small lake. The route then heads east to the hidden valley marked Font de la l'Auzate. Then came a steep climb out of dwarf woodland (with impressive stands of great yellow gentian) to gain high mountain terrain at the pronounced Col de Girabal, at which the route takes on a high mountain feel. A pleasant ridge leads to the summit of St Barthelemy. Instructive views over the entire region as it is much higher than everything else locally (apart from its immediate neighbour, which it would have been nice to have done as it looked an interesting scramble). I retraced steps down to the Col and then really enjoyed the steeper climb up to the Pic de Girabal, with a little mild scrambling in places especially on the crest. A lovely rocky summit, and then new terrain down to the next col over, the Col de l'Etang d'Appy, presumably named after the mountain lake just below. Again, I could have bagged more peaks from here but sensibly opted to complete the loop back to the Fage Belle and then back to Mont D'Olmes. A delightful start, after which I drove around to the next valley over and had lunch in Tarascon sur Ariege, before continuing to Auzat and the roadhead higher up at L'Artigue. This was rammed with day trippers escaping the heat, so I could only park lower down, after which I embarked on the walk-in to the Refuge du Pinet. I have done this before, a hut walk after a day in the mountains, and it is tiring, However, the heat today - along with the vertical interval - made this a particularly big ask at the start of the trip. That said, it was wonderful to be back in the high Pyrenees, and the route initally follows the valley of the upper Ariege with stunning views down to the river, the Cascade Pressac and up to the bare mountains further north like Pique de Belcaire. After a small error, I began to climb steeply through woodland. I hadn't done much research and was taken aback by the amount of climbing, which then got harder as it emerged from the treeline into the hanging valley south-west. No sign of the hut (which is completely hidden from view until you reach it) so life did get a bit tough for a while - sweating and dehydrating as I climbed. It got even steeper for a while, and with the 1100m climb added to the 1100m climbed this morning took it out of me more than expected. However, eventually I gained the beautiful Etang du Pinet and the wonderfully situated hut, which was packed, completely full. I was very glad that I'd booked, and just concentrating on replenishing my reserves with the usual fine four course hut meal of local beef with olives, ariege cheese, carrot soup, cake (and lots of resting admiring the view back down the valley) that evening.

Pic du Han

Peaks: Pic du Han (2074m)

Area: Ariege, Pyrenees

After dropping the family off at Carcassonne Airport I drove to Mirepoix and then up to the ski station at Mont D'Olmes. This is essentially the edge of the Pyrenees, and the hills around here were the obvious place to start. I don't recall ever visiting Ariege before either, which was a further attraction (this was my fourth Pyrenees trip, the others being 1993, 1997 and 2016). I had no real intention of doing anything today, but when I arrived I realised the cable car was still running and I just had enough time for a reccie - it seemed a perfect opportunity. So I packed quickly and took it to the top station, where I embarked on zigzags up to an obvious Col de Cadene. From there, a short east ridge leads up via a little mild scrambling to the summit of Pic du Han. In my excitement at being here I initially felt I could run over to some of the neighbouring peaks, but I soon talked myself down from such foolishness. There was an obvious need to pace myself, so I contented myself with this as an ideal little reccie, spying out the peaks of my next destination like Pica d'Estats, and then descending for the return ride just before it closed.

Pic de Brau

Peaks: Pic de Brau (654m)

Area: Aude, France

Not a very interesting looking mountain, Pic de Brau frames the skyline from Limoux but has a plateau-like summit covered in wind-farms. After a couple of runs in Carcassonne, including one along the Canal du Midi, and a 30k bike ride through the Limoux vineyards, I had some spare energy so ran up this hill from Cournanel (a lovely village just outside Limoux) before breakfast. It was more enjoyable than I'd expected, nice gravel tracks up to a little level ridge and then a remarkably steep final climb for such a short and innocuous looking mountain. From the top, the Pyrenees were cloud-covered but Bugarach was clear and notable. I descended equally steep slopes down the far side of the mountain and then picked up the family (in shifts) for a delightful circuit walk around the 'Cabanes' - each individual vineyard had its own shelter, and they had all been perfectly restored. We had a picnic by one as the temperature climbed.

Limoux ride

Just a short outing through the vineyards of Limoux - most famed for the sparkling 'blanquette' which predates Champagne by a century. As with the three cols I did in the Auvergne, these short climbs have also featured on the Tour. They really are quite small, however, and I climbed the Col du Loup initially before the Cote de St Nazaire took me down to that little wine village before heading back on the unpleasant main Carcassonne road.

Pic de Bugarach

Peaks: Pech/Pic de Bugarach (1230m)

Area: Corbieres, France

Both the mountain and village of Bugarach became famous a decade or two again, as some cult or other decided it would be spared when the world ended in 2012. That didn't happen, but the mountain is still apparently associated with various new-age beliefs. It stands alone and impressively above the village, which might have something to do with it, but for me it just represented an ideal outing for M and I after we moved accommodation from Carcassonne to Limoux. We have made a habit of taking in at least one peak together during our family holidays, so I drove in the van up to the Col de Linas for a high start. The route up was really enjoyable, through a mossy woodland we christened 'dagobah' to a viewpoint and then the spectacular side peak spires of Pic Grosse with a superb view down over 'Cathar Country'. The route then kinks left to join the broad west ridge which leads delightfully to the summit. This was a fantastic place, which we had to ourselves despite encountering numerous others on the mountain. A steep gully plunged down from one side, with the Pyrenees distantly visible from the other. I could see St Barthelemy, which I felt would make a good initial objective next week. I could also see Carlit, which I did in 2016. But most notable was Canigou, iconic Catalan summit, shimmering to the south. I had planned to descent south-east, but after a sandwich the initial steep scree made me consider the 'fenetre' route to the west. This was an excellent decision, and we both enjoyed the intricate route through little crags, passing the little window (a hole in the limestone) part of the way down. After reaching the woods we finally got down to a quiet road which led round the mountain back to the village. M stayed here while I ploughed back up to the Col de Linas for the car. A very enjoyable Bastille Day outing.

Mont Dore peaks and ride

Peaks: Roc de Cuzeau (1737m), Puy de Crebasses (1762m), Puy de Cacadogne (1784m), Puy de Sancy (1885m), Tour Carree (1738m), Puy de Clierge (1691m)

Area: Massif Central, France

After 10 hours of nourishing sleep at the wonderful Col de Guery, I had some porridge then drove across to Mont Dore and up to park near the Chalet du Sancy. I calculated this would be best-placed for a big horseshoe of the main peaks in this area, which are all surprisingly scenic, even mildly dramatic in places. It was all a very nice surprise, one of the very few parts of mountainous France that I have never visited. As a result, this was a superbly enjoyable circuit of at least six peaks (there is an established route called the Boucle de Sancy which takes part of this, although I was unaware of it). My starting point proved prudent as it gave access to a contouring route through forests near the Chalet du Sancy which gained the ridgeline below the Roc de Cuzeau. A few hundred metres of ascent remained to the summit, at which views opened out towards Sancy and the head of the valley. This is partially spoiled by ski developments, but the upper mountains are again surprisingly well defined. The weather was perfect, clear, sunny and warm but not overly humid. I really enjoyed the subsequent hills of Crebasses (more rounded) and Cacadogne, which I skirted. Then it was up the badly eroded zigzags to Puy de Sancy, the dominant peak and (along with the Puy de Dome) perhaps the most climbed mountain in France. It certainly felt like Snowdon at the top, with dozens of people milling around. Wooden steps down to a marked col was another indication of this, as its the highest peak for miles around, a really prominent feature of the landscape. Not really my cup of tea so I scampered down past surprisingly dramatic views to the col below the Tour Carree to continue the circuit, after which the crowds melted away as they so often do. The rest of the round was a delight, again much more interesting than I'd expected. Tour Carree was rocky but gave way to a fabulous easy romp along the western side of the valley, with superb views back to Sancy. Over the Puy de Clierge then down from the col below the Capucin to emerge right next to the van. Fortunately, I was in time for lunch, so had the local speciality of Truffade made with Bleu d'Auvergne and served with saucisson sec. Thus fortified, and after a coffee, I got on the bike for another training climb, this time more precisely replicating my forthcoming Pyrenees plans. I rode up the Col de la Croix Morand from Mont Dore. This was mild, no more than 8k at a steady 6% gradient, so much easier than a Pyrenees climb, but still a highly enjoyable confidence boost and trial for the Scott. It has featured at least six times on the Tour, and the top had that distinctive atmosphere. After a river bath under a tiny waterfall, I drove to the Dordogne and parked the van above the famous river itself, not far from Martel (which I ran to via delightful paths next morning after a nocturnal downpour).

Roche Sanadoire

Peaks: Roche Sanadoire (1286m)

Area: Massif Central/Auvergne, France

After a baguette lunch of the ultra-local St Nectaire cheese in Orcival, I rounded the corner to find the dramatic peaks of Roche Sanadoire and Tuiliere. This was a genuine surprise, as Sanadoire in particular looks like an Alpine spire from some angles. As I reached the Col de Guery, I spied a tiny path up this western side and it occured to me it would make a very quick outing from the col. It did indeed: a short descent to a lower col, and then I made my way up steep slopes to a precipitous path which cut through bands of limestone to the small summit. Steep but nowhere near as hard as the peak actually looks. Superb views of the beautiful valley below, and across to the rest of the range. I then spent the evening gazing at the famous view of these two spires from the Col de Guery viewpoint, wonderfully relaxing.

Puy de Dome run and ride

Peaks: Puy de Dome (1465m)

Area: Chaine des Puys/Massif Central, France

A notable landmark, obvious for miles around, this volcanic lava dome may well be one of the most frequently ascended mountains in France. I hadn't really planned to do it (I would have liked to have cycled up it, but that is now banned). However, the view of it as I approached the Puys from Troyes (where I had watched the Tour stage yesterday via a 35k ride) made it a compelling objective. Lots of cars at the Col de Ceyssat, and a famous path - the Chemin des Muletiers - leading directly to the top. This was enjoyable, albeit crowded with families and all manner of day-trippers, rather like Snowdon. At the top, it emerges onto the expansive summit dome replete with visitor centre, observatory and tracks. I took in the view of Clermont Ferrand, which is directly below, as well as the distant views across to higher hills like the Puy de Sancy. I did a few loops around the top then located a tiny steep path that immediately left the crowds behind to plough directly down the northern slopes. A long looping descent followed, quite hot at times in glorious sunshine. After a short break, I drove to Ceyssat and got the bike out for a little tester, up to the Col de Ceyssat, then the very fast descent to the edge of the city, and then the surprisingly tough climb up the Col de Moreno before a gravel descent back to Ceyssat. 

Druid race

Race: Druid fell race

Time/Position: 41.50 (17th from 100)

A dreadful race, by far my worst time on this course, a race I have done many times. I started reasonably well but faded rapidly on the climb. The descent was marginally better, but not much.

Morrone

Peaks: Morrone (859)

Area: Cairngorms, Scotland

Braemar's home mountain, quite unusual for Scotland in that it is an obvious ascent from the centre of a village. I was in two minds this morning: tired after two big days, and the weather was on the change, but I wondered whether I should max out the trip with a longer outing up Beinn Iutharn Mor and its neighbours. Some light drizzle and lowering cloud as I had my morning coffee made the decision for me: I reverted to 'plan b', which was a proper mountain run up Morrone. I could see the mast on the top from behind my camping place, so went from the van rather than the village - up through steep woods to a pond and then a superb contouring path through Morrone Birkwood, a very special habitat apparently, of 'downy' birch and juniper woodland. On emerging, the main hill gate and path up Morrone begins - clearly very popular (I think there is a race up it attached to the Highland Games). I was a bit tired, and it was a bit of a slog, but I made the summit in 27 minutes from the base of the path. At times, the sun peeked through and it then got pretty hot. On the whole though, I felt my decision was the right one, with mist down over the Cairngorms and only Lochnagar clear. I had a rest on the top, then took the obvious track to the north which then descends towards the Glenshee road after a mile or so. This descent was quite lengthy with lots of switchbacks, but led to a quiet tarmac road back to Braemar via the golf course. Unwisely, I then cut inland following my nose through a series of complex paths which never quite went where I expected them to! I ended up covering 17k with 2000ft of climbing, taking two hours, so a longer and more tiring outing than I had intended. 

Cairngorms east

Peaks: Ben Avon (1171), Beinn a'Bhuird (1196)

Area: Cairngorms, Scotland

Both these mountains are more like miniature ranges than individual peaks. I hadn't originally planned to do them, instead the intention was to head to Lochnagar. But I was enjoying this side of the Cairngorms so much that I didn't want to leave. Also, the clear weather meant this was a sensible choice as both are a very long way from the nearest road. Again, a bike shaves some of the distance and time off, so I set off on mine from the car park at Invercauld north-east of Braemar. This was very easy initially, tarmac then gravel past a sort of stately home to another estate at Altnourie. The track then becomes rough, mountain-bike territory really, but I persisted until I had done at least 5k of the route before abandoning the bike and setting out up Glen an-t'Slugain on foot. This narrows to a gorge at the top, where I crossed a stream to an old ruin which looks almost Greek in style. Above, the Slugain gives way to the much bigger valley of the Quoich, which runs all the way up to the Sneck between the two peaks (and all the way down to the Linn of Quoich which was directly opposite my campsite). Then came a real surprise, the path up the glen was remarkably good, presumably a stalker's path, gently rising, dry and comfortable underfoot. It enabled these big distances to be covered easily, and I swallowed up the ground, finding the whole ascent of Ben Avon far easier than I had anticipated. The valley tightens higher up, with Beinn a'Bhuird's magnificent cwms to the left. A steep section leads the boulder landmark of the Cleirich to a lovely green stream valley higher up, reminding me of Iceland (as did much of the scenery today). At the top, the first granite tors mark the 'Sneck', a pronounced col between Avon and Bhuird, with the wild valley of Slochd Mor stretching out below to the north. Beyond this, the ground descends to the flatlands of Aberdeenshire and Banffshire, the only part of mainland Britain that I have never visited. A series of zigzags leads up scree on the right to gain the vast Ben Avon plateau. With blue skies above, this recalls desert scenery and put me in mind of Utah or Jordan. The plateau is scattered with granite tors, like Dartmoor, and I headed across to the highest one, still surprised at how easy it all was despite the distances. I was on the summit in two hours from the bike highpoint, although it is at least 20km away (from the van anyway). I began to hatch the idea of taking in Beinn a'Bhuird too, as its highest summit - the North Top - didn't seem far from the Sneck. So I trotted down to that col, examining the Garbh Choire with its remote rock-climbing, somewhere I have wanted to visit for decades. I had very good legs, so ploughed straight up the other side of the Sneck to the granite forepeak of Cnap a'Chleirich. From here, an arctic plateau leads across to the featureless true summit of Beinn a'Bhuird. Great views down to its wild and remote eastern corries. Then, a mistake. I should have done justice to the mountain by descending the broad ridge. Instead, I retraced my steps, stupidly. This was partly over-caution, as it had clouded over and the weather looked threatening (and I was well over 20km from the van!). But it was also a desire to descend the comfortable path and save some energy. Despite that, it still feels like a mistake and almost a cheat's ascent of Beinn a'Bhuird (which I could see from my camp). The descent was even easier than the ascent. and I got back to the bike after 31k/1250m in exactly five hours. The final bike descent was initially rough, then very fast, and I had plenty of time for a toastie in the Bothy cafe before my river bath in the Dee.

Cairn Toul ridge

Peaks: Devil's Point (1004), Cairn Toul (1291), Sgor an Lochain Uaine/Angel's Peak (1258)

Area: Cairngorms, Scotland

My Cairngorms experience is not extensive, and has always been limited to forays from the north and west. I did the Cairngorm 4000s in 2017, but missed Cairn Toul (in other words, I didn't do the 4000s, but it was still a big and memorable day). I had a formative experience on Bynack More in a blizzard in winter 1991, a memory which still causes me to shudder. And more recently I did the peaks above beautiful Glen Feshie. But I had never properly explored the southern and eastern hills and approaches before, so this short trip was aimed at correcting that. I parked the van a couple of miles outside posh Braemar, and drove round to the Linn of Dee early on Sunday. It was busy already, a reflection perhaps of the better weekend weather in the east. After porridge and coffee on the stove, I cycled up the gravel road to Derry Lodge, standard practice which shaves some time and distance off these unavoidably long outings. The scenery here is exquisite, beautiful copses of Caledonian pine and babbling streams. I left the bike and trotted up the key Lairig Ghru path which goes all the way to Aviemore via Scotland's most famous mountain pass, but also gives access to the peaks I wanted to do. It was very pleasant indeed, and I adopted a loping walk/mild jog pace through the robber's copse to Glen Luibeg and its river crossing, which I did barefoot as I was enjoying the novel comfort of dry feet. Delightful native woodland here, with great views up Luibeg towards Ben Macdui, looking like a more interesting route than the one I took up Macdui in 2017 (across the plateau from Cairn Gorm). The path climbs gently and traverses the base of Carn a'Mhaim with teasing views until finally reaching a viewpoint over the grandest part of the range - Devil's Point very notable ahead, with Cairn Toul to its right. The deep Lairig Ghru running all the way up to Braeraich. And ahead, the magnificent Glen Geusachan curving up to the plateau above Glen Feshie. The path then gently descends to the base of the Lairig, crosses the river, and comes to the legendary bothy of Corrour. I found it empty so took a short break inside, very pleasant and atmospheric. When I emerged, the early cloud was clearing to bright blue sunshine. Stunning clarity, and hot as I ploughed up the steep climb into Coire Odhair above the bothy. Plenty of streams to drink from, and I concentrated more than usual on replenishing my fuel, always a good idea in the Cairngorms as you are generally a long way from your car! I took a steep short cut up towards Devil's Point (a famously prudish victorian translation of the Gaelic original) and easy ground led to this. It is a munro, but really just a spur, the end of the Cairn Toul ridge. It gives tremendous views down to the river confluence and Glen Geusachan, as well as the entire Lairig Ghru and surrounding peaks. After a banana, I trotted back to the col, and then up a forepeak to the first proper view of Cairn Toul, by far the shapeliest Cairngorm mountain (and also a pair of snow buntings, presumably breeders). Nice boulder hopping up this, with the weather now absolutely perfect, crystal clarity across the entire range and beyond. This is a major peak, a key 4000er and the fourth highest mountain in Britain, so I stayed for a while on the summit, drinking it in. I then popped across to Sgor an Lochain Uaine (Angel's Peak is a made-up name, Victorian again presumably). It is a fantastic viewpoint, promoted to munro status in the 90s, with mighty Braeraich and its wild, remote corries the most notable feature. I contoured back across Cairn Toul, saving lots of time and energy and trotted back down to Corrour, drinking often from the rushing stream which cascades down these slopes. The return was long but not too tedious, and it had clouded over by the time I reached Derry lodge after 26k/1400m of effort in around five relatively relaxed hours. A delightfully easy gravel ride back to the van for a pint of tea, sitting outside the van in the sunshine. I then took a bath in the infant River Dee before retiring to the same overnight camp with views of Macdui and Beinn a'Bhuird on a superb cloudless evening with virtually no midges.

Glenshee north

Peaks: Carn an Tuirc (1019), Carn of Claise (1063)

Area: Glenshee, Scotland

My Highlands model is now so refined that it follows the same schedule, and as such I am always seeking good options for short post-drive outings. These fitted the bill to perfection, undistinguished hills but ideally suited to a brief leg-stretcher after the drive. I left home at 7am and drove to Glenshee via stops in Lancaster and Stirling. In 2020, I did a painful trot up Glas Maol and its neighbour from Glenshee (having already traversed Beinn a'Ghlo in the morning - a reflection of the joy of being released from Covid confinement combined with the related fact that there was nothing else to do, everything was still closed!). An even more painful memory is connected with the hills on the other side of the pass - Carn Aosda, Geoidh and the Cairnwell - as I did these the day after breaking three hours for the first time at the Edinburgh marathon of 2008. Today's hills are accessed a little further down the road on the Braemar side. Carn an Tuirc is an obvious objective, a scree-covered dome, and pleasant jogging along the river led to a direct path up the front. The highpoint comes soon after, just 44 minutes from the road. Then comes grassy running down to a broad col and then another grassy slog up the very dull hill of Carn of Claise, on which I saw a sandpiper well away from its conventional habitat. Some nice valleys make the views here much more interesting, however: the Caenlochan Glen, for example, is surprisingly deep. I contoured another grassy valley (Allt a Garbh Coire) and then headed along the very old Monega Pass route which takes the wonderful grassy spur down to the pointed top of Sron na Gaoithe. This was superb, and led to a steep drop-off and more good running back to the road. Around 1.45 for the circuit, a quick invigorating bath in the Clunie Water, and then to camp outside Braemar.

HK-Conwy-Llanasa-St Asaph

I had been planning to cycle from Conwy to home for some time, as I have always assumed a westerly would ease progress. However, for complicated reasons the opportunity to go the other way arose and winds were mercifully light! I didn't go direct, as I still want to up the mileage a tad in advance of the French trip, so headed east counter-intuitively initially, turning up to Saltney Ferry for the Dee path to Queensferry. From here, I tried to follow the national cycle route which is just laughable. At times, some sections are worthwhile but most of the time it is a typically British half-hearted approach to cycling provision, ridiculously convoluted and often disgorging into the traffic anyway. So eventually I gave up and some of the sections were predictably unpleasant as I essentially reversed my memorable 'virtual London marathon' of 2020, when I ran home from Gronant. It is all a great shame, as a proper cycle path would make this a very pleasant tour of the Deeside communities, all flat. By Gronant, the traffic eases, and by Prestatyn everything changes as you access the promenade near the Nova centre. It was a glorious day, sun-drenched with classic seaside views, and the riding is good. Still not exactly plain sailing though, with sandy sections and hundreds of very slow moving and often very large human beings. I had a short break in Colwyn Bay, taking a good route to Mochdre and then down Pabo Lane to Junction and Conwy. Around 3.20 for the leisurely 80k ride. Next day, I rode back but took a different route and, with rain threatening, decided to head to St Asaph after doing the horrible climb from Gronant to Llanasa. 

Abergwyngregyn

Race: Abergwyngregyn (7.4k/390m)

Time/Position: 39.40 (27th from 136)

I was always under the impression this race ploughed up the steep tarmac towards Anafon then bashed up some heather before returning the same way. As a result, I had never bothered with it despite its 'home turf' status. There may be two different routes in the Tuesday night series from Aber - whatever the case, this course takes a logical and very enjoyable clockwise loop to the Falls and above, most of which was familiar territory. Indeed, I remembered the start from a British Champs race up Moel Wnion many years ago. It takes a very steep track to eventually join the gate that leads to the familiar circular contouring route to Aber Falls. I climbed slowly but reasonably well by recent weak standards, and then enjoyed the hard racing along the familiar tracks to Rhaedr Bach. Then comes an awkward rocky section to the main Aber Falls, which again I knew well, before the bonus climb, a draining zigzag haul up the screes and through the woodland (now mainly felled) to eventually gain the spur that comes down from Llwytmor. I have no memory of doing this climb before, and struggled on it after the fast start, and my current sluggishness on all steep climbs. From the top, the race becomes a famously fast pelt down, just a flat-out spring for the finish. I recorded 7.5 minutes for the full 2.2km descent, 3.20km pace throughout. I had done the lower section earlier this year, although the finish is actually at the cabin that marks the start of the tourist path to the Falls.

Penmaenbach climbing

Routes: Jefferson Slab (f6a:led), Y Clip Aur (f6a:sec), A55 arete (f5c:led), Agent Orange (f5c:led)

Crag: Penmaenbach, Conwy

All routes I have done numerous times before, but not for a few years, so this was a very pleasant few hours of cragging before the evening race. It was rather cool and breezy as we walked in but a little sunshine peeked through at times and it just about stayed on the right side of 'too cold' throughout. Peter and I both led the tricky Jefferson Slab, and I enjoyed revisiting the arete which is the most satisfying line on the right-hand slab. The slab in particular was harder than I remembered finding it, but all climbing is when you have had such a massive break from it! Vic and Emma climbed alongside on parallel routes. We avoided the chough nesting areas (multiple choughs flying around throughout, presumably meaning they have had breeding success) and moved to another area I have climbed on many times before, where Peter and I both led the steeper but juggy Agent Orange as the sun came out: always an enjoyable climb with sharp little holds easing progress. Then it was back to the car and down to Aber for the race.

Tour de Flint and Denbigh

This was supposed to be one of my intermittent 'cycling years' but it hasn't worked out like that yet, due to a combination of circumstances (not least poor weather). I did manage to up the mileage a little today with my first 100k for some time. This route became another of my 'Tour de [historic] Flintshire' outings, centred around a magnificent lunch in Denbigh (and spending a fair amount of time in Denbighshire!). From home, I climbed up to Buckley, then through Mold and Cadole all the way up to Clwyd Gate in the big ring. I felt reasonably good, and it is a fantastic descent to Llanbedr DC after which I took the delightful quiet lanes through Llandyrnog to Bodfari. After the early threat of rain, it became superbly bright and clear along to St Asaph. Then, after a long family lunch it was back in the saddle for the climb up the old Rhuallt Hill, then a semi-inadvertent extension to Dyserth, down Hiraddug Road where we used to live. And then finally benefiting from a now light westerly for the undulating road through Trelawnyd and Lloc to Holywell. Unusually clear views of the Wirral, Liverpool cathedrals and the Pennines. A horrible climb to Pentre Halkyn and then Rbosesmor, then tiny lanes to Northop, Alltami and back to Buckley before coasting home - 100k, 1380m in a less-than-speedy four hours.

Weets fell race

Race: Weets fell race (8.5k/450m)

Time/Position: 50.11 (21st from 131 [1st V50])

As with the Cressbrook Crawl last month, I am not reading too much into my first V50 placing here. For one thing there were two V55s ahead of me, and there was a fairly small local field competing, comparable to a Clwydian race. It is actually a famous event though, with quite a long and illustrious history (dating all the way back to 1971) and it is in the heart of traditional fell running country on the Lancashire/Yorkshire border. Weets is actually a small summit above the town of Barnoldswick (all of this is traditional Yorkshire, modern Lancashire) and the race used to dash through the streets on a direct route to the top, rather like Rivington Pike or Cilcain. It takes a very different route now, and Morgan and I arrived just a few minutes before the start (all this was only because it was vaguely en route to pick up Eve in York). Now it starts from a minor road just outside the town. Up this to a little path through heather which heads up a grassy hill before a descent down Folly Lane: this slightly arbitrary section is a little unfortunate, as the runners then double back at the bottom, climbing back into the open hill that marks the start of the real climb up Weets. From the summit trig, the route then takes another slightly arbitrary mini-loop to the north through awkward boggy and tussocky terrain before climbing back to the top then reversing the outward leg. Some nice bracing views down to Barnoldswick and over the Pendle hills. Given my continuing 'rest', I had a reasonable if slightly plodding race, but at least held my position from the summit down, only because I upped the pace on the final descent as a big group of chasers caught me up. A pleasant interlude, then it was back to the van to continue the drive to York for a very late lunch.

Cyrn Las horseshoe

Peaks: Garnedd Ugain

Routes: Clogwyn y Person arete (s3)

Area: Yr Wyddfa, Eryri

The true Cwm Glas horseshoe, as I think of it, goes up the north ridge of Crib Goch, takes in Garnedd Ugain, studiously avoids Snowdon, then descends Cyrn Las. As such, it is the connoisseur's choice, and something I have done a few times. This is an even more refined version, kicking off with the steep walk from the Pass beyond Gyrn Las and up into Cwm Glas, one of the finest corners of Wales, drawn to the superb arete line above. Shockingly, I realised I haven't done Clogwyn y Person arete this century! I did it several times in the 80s and 90s as I cut my mountaineering teeth with Tim and Stee. In fact I can remember doing it in big boots on Christmas Eve decades ago, on a freezing day with verglas on the rocks! Nothing as dramatic today, in fact we roped up for most of it. I had suggested it as a suitable mountaineering outing for the hut group after another convivial evening, particularly given the unsettled weather. It was cold and cloudy as we set off - 'we' being Steve, Emma, and special guest Peter's brother Robin from Seattle. The best scrambling follows a line of jugs up the right wall of the gully, atmospheric and superb. Then I led up an exposed section to what I thought was the crux groove. However, my memory was tricking me - in fact the first groove is considerably harder, and I was glad to have the rope for the final lurch over a horizontal spike. Above is the real crux! This is another awkward groove, which I led over the final bulge, and then bought Emma up. The arete is a wonderful line, certainly one of the region's best scrambles, and the easier ridge above leads pleasantly towards Crib y Ddisgyl. The weather had improved, the threatening start giving way to tiny glimmers of brightness and a cloudbase well above the tops - all very enjoyable. We all gathered on the summit of Garnedd Ugain, then scampered down the grass to pick up the narrow path down Cyrn Las ridge. This always takes longer than expected and was hard on the knees today after I bashed them on the slate yesterday. There's a few little rocky steps and a lot of weaving around.

Llanberis slate climbing

Routes: Fresh Air (f6a:led), Hawkeye (f5c:sec), Macsen (f5:led), Learning to Fly (f5a:led), Octogenarian (f5a:sec)

Area: Llanberis slate

An immensely long lay-off from climbing: some young people will have had entire climbing careers since I last tied on in earnest. Covid was to blame, I just never properly re-engaged. But, this March I got a pass for the wall, and used it a lot so do have a tad more strength. It's also true that I have done a little mild mountaineering in the long 'interval' and did visit old favourites like Pot Hole and Castle Inn a couple of times. But the general point stands, so I kicked off with an old favourite today - up the detached slate slab of Fresh Air. It is well bolted, of course, but a little more polished than I remembered. It went fairly well, if a little less smooth and elegant than it always seemed in the past, perhaps unsurprisingly. The weather has been unseasonably cold, but it was at least dry for this afternoon session with Steve. We then picked off the other two routes hereabouts, the 5c being much better than it looks with some interesting moves (done before, as with all today's climbs). Then it was round the corner for the two slabbiest easy routes, albeit both a tad unbalanced, before we got a bit too cold as rain threatened. Back to the hut for a superb Spanish feast, the fourth of our Nant Peris dining society outings.

Up the Beast

Race: Up the Beast

Time/Position: 44.48 (12th from 105)

There was a time when I had never missed a 'Beast' race, having done every one since it was launched. I have missed a few by now (I swapped it for the Llanrug 5k last year for example) but it is still one of the local fell races I have done most often. As such, I suspect this was comfortably my slowest ever time, but I wasn't too surprised by that in the circumstances. I told myself I would just jog round, but it never quite works out like that, and I probably went a little too hard on the first section through the woods meaning that I was blowing on the Beast and the other climbs. It was much cooler than usual, almost cold at times, and I am never entirely convinced the complex final section through the woods is always the same route! A pint afterwards in the refurbished Miners was a pleasant way to wind down.

Rhinog traverse

Peaks: Rhinog Fawr, Rhinog Fach, Y Llethr, Crib y Rhiw, Diffwys, Diffwys West, Llawllech, Mynydd Egryn, Egryn South

Area: Rhinogydd, Eryri

For me the full traverse of the Rhinog range is perhaps the best mountain day in Eryri, just edging the 3000s because it is so much wilder and emptier. There are no easy ways to tackle the northern end, which really slowed Peter and I down when we did the full south to north traverse in 2014. Today's plan was a slightly cheaty, more direct reverse version, which overcame the difficult northern terrain by using a cunning side route to the east, which was still appallingly boggy and awkward, if a little less rocky. I felt the mild cheat was justified, partly because this was a solo crossing, and as such I had to cycle back to the van from Barmouth after finishing. But also because I made up for it by sticking religiously to the southern ridge crest as I approached Barmouth, all the way to the south top of Mynydd Egryn, which makes the climax in this direction much harder. I dropped the bike off first, then the intimidatingly long 20 mile drive north to the start point by Llyn Trawsfynydd. Absolutely perfect conditions: superb clarity, mild but not hot, a gentle northerly tailwind. The initial tracks lead to a boggy wilderness south of Tyndrain and a very hard to follow, tenuous 'path' which is mostly invisible until you get higher up. It coalesces a bit and then hits a firetrack in the forest which leads very easily to the marked path up to Bwlch Tyddiad/Roman Steps. Huw and I descended this last year, so I had recent knowledge which I deployed to good effect, taking the side route, steep and rocky, up to Llyn Du, a great spot hidden in a rocky fold, typical Rhinogydd scenery. From here, I got the most direct ascent bang on: there are lots of paths but the steepest approach gets you to the top very quickly, in fact it arrives suddenly, a mere 90 minutes from the start near Traws. I then took the 'descent of doom', direct through atmospheric rocky runnels and gullies all the way down to Bwlch Drws Ardudwy, a historic Welsh pass, where I have camped twice - once with Huw last year, and once as a teenager in the late 1980s. Then it was up the path to Llyn Cwmhosan and Llyn Hywel, branching off before the latter to curve round on a tiny path to sneak up Rhinog Fach from the west. The weather continued absolutely glorious after a little cloudy interlude. Then comes the scenic highlight, for which again I picked good lines based on last year's trip, Llyn Hywel its usual magnificence, turquoise in this light. The route up Y Llethr is steep and loose, and I was now beginning to tire. Great views over Llyn and Ynys Enlli compensated. Then, the route changes completely - and the ridge takes on a grassy, gentle character. I was feeling good enough to run this, with the views of the sea getting closer with every step. Cader was coming into sharp focus across the Mawddach. Easy ground leads quickly over Crib y Rhiw and Diffwys, all absolutely superb and a wonderful contrast with the northern end. Then came a surprise. From Llawllech you can smell the sea, but then I took the direct line over the remaining summits - suddenly the route becomes much less clear and the ground far more awkward again. I had no memory of this from 2014, which makes me think we took a different line to Diffwys, as I remember it all as very easy running. So I think this was new ground, and considerably more challenging as a final descent, down to Bwlch y Rhiwgyr, a noted crossing point. Then yet more climbing over Mynydd Egryn, with an annoying and tiring route-finding error before I corrected myself and dropped past Barmouth Slabs to Dinas Oleu, emerging onto the main street with its mobility scooters and drunken brummies. The mistakes and semi-inadvertent purity of the descent from Diffwys cost me a lot of time, perhaps an hour or more compared to the direct side tracks. I had been on for a pretty quick traverse but in the end it was just under five hours moving, close to six in all. I took a little time to recuperate in Barmouth: pasty, energy drinks, crisps, although I should perhaps have indulged in a full meal before the challenging second part of the day. I knew the ride back would be tiring, and it was: the gravel bike feels like every gram of its substantial weight when one is tiring! The 10k to Llanelltyd was fine, even pleasant with its constant views of Mawddach and Cader in stunning afternoon light. But the A470 to Traws was not very nice. I had hoped to be able to take the national route via Sarn Helen but this would have been worse, and at least the route north was quiet with all the weekenders heading the opposite direction. Past Ganllwyd and Coed y Brenin via a few nasty draggy climbs before finally getting back to the van (a painfully slow 90 minutes from Barmouth!) where I briefly relaxed on my chair in the sunshine, gazing back to Rhinog Fawr and Fach as the evening light got even clearer.

Hebog loop

Peaks: Moel Hebog

Area: Moel Hebog, Eryri

After turning 54 yesterday, I decided to test myself on a time-trial up a climb I know very well. The route up Hebog from Beddgelert is, let's say, rather punishing. I did the race a few times in my late 30s and early 40s, and once more recently, and broke the hour up-and-down quite comfortably more than once. I don't think I could do that nowadays, but I was still pleased with this little session. From the old Gelert shop I took the road over the railway line to the cycle path and then the relentlessly steep main climb - which rarely lets up at all and often gets rocky and awkward. This is particularly the case towards the top, where there are multiple lines of varying efficiency. I got a pretty decent one through the scree and emerged at a very windy ridge with the mist down, stumbling across a young couple arguing about whether or not they should continue: they seemed surprised to see me emerge from the other side of the ridge in shorts. From the summit (43 minutes from Beddgelert, 31.50 for the steep part), I plummeted down the northern slopes, getting out of the wind quickly, then took the rocky and awkward descent towards the conifer plantations. This leads to a horrible path, which is actually marked out as if sensible people might want to do it. It takes a direct line through the conifers, appallingly boggy and awkward throughout, to eventually gain fire tracks back to the railway. My sole detached itself from my right shoe at the top of the track, meaning I had to hobble in without it, essentially padding along on a sock, which is rather painful on gravel. The shoes were ceremonially binned in Caernarfon.

Across the Cynllaith

Event: Across the Cynllaith (16m/3000ft)

Time: 2.40

Could there be a more perfect fallow year event than a long run/walk through a beautiful border landscape, taking obscure paths up the three main hills in the area? Probably not, so this was a delightful and hugely enjoyable non-competitive outing, part of the Trefonen hill weekend (I did the Mynydd Myfyr fell race a few years ago, which also forms part of it). It was a nice morning after a lot of rain last week, and I set off from Trefonen around 9am, jogging the paths and lanes through to a curving path up Mynydd Myfyr. A lovely descent led to a very muddy section which eventually led to the border and the path along the Cynllaith itself (the name of the river but also, I think, of the medieval bro). Then into Llansilin to check-in and enjoy coffee and biscuits before the crux of the day, a lengthy 5k haul to the top of Gyrn Moelfre via a steep lane and then a superb curving track to the broad grassy ridge over the summit. This is a tremendous place right in the centre of this beautiful region, and I'd only visited once before on the Gyrn Gallop race (which heads up direct from Rhiwlas, on the other side of the hill, and as a result I barely recognised it at all). From the summit, a long looping path led down to tarmac and eventually back to Llansilin for another check and drink. The final leg saw me catching lots of groups on the shorter 10 mile loop. It climbed surprisingly steeply away from the Cynllaith to the broad summit of a hill, which was contoured until a slightly confusing section up to the last hill of Moelydd, the last of the three. The previously excellent marking was a little confusing here, so I ploughed steeply up a nettle-strewn hillside where I surmised I would find the top, which I did. From here, Offa's Dyke led back to Trefonen along little lanes and tracks. Bara brith, tea and walnut cake to recuperate, and home before midday: a lovely event.

Carn a'Chlamain

Peaks: Carn a'Chlamain (963)

Area: Blair Atholl, Scotland

The hills in these parts are not the most exciting, with the exception of Beinn a'Ghlo, but this was a really unexpected bonus on the last day of the trip. It was only intended as something short to do on my way home, but actually Glen Tilt was something of a revelation. I looked down on it in 2020, notable as my first proper post-lockdown outing, from Beinn a'Ghlo, but I had never actually been up it before. In places, it is really beautiful, and an easy track makes cycling through it a delight. I was a little tired, I wanted to use the bike, and I needed a short outing - so Carn a'Chlamain worked perfectly. After a huge breakfast in Kingussie I tried to waste as much time as possible given the rather inconvenient weather pattern which was seeing later and later clearances. Sure enough, it was still dull and even drizzly when I set off from the Old Bridge of Tilt above Blair at 11am. A lovely 10k ride up the glen, very gentle even on the gravel bike (which was necessary), past Marble Lodge to a little shieling and the start of the broad south-east ridge up Chlamain. Still a lot of low cloud around, but I started anyway and with no need to save energy anymore decided to up the pace a bit. The mountain itself is basically the highpoint of a vast undulating plateau although the summit cone is quite attractive. Initially a steep path led to a gentler track, which kinks up the hillside and then becomes very runnable up to an indistinct section near a forepeak and a rocky section. I met a lady who had lost her phone here, and scanned the last section looking for it. I got to the summit in less than an hour from the bike, and the lady then emerged having found the phone. It finally started to clear a little, revealing the plateau and the Cairngorms beyond. Good views of Beinn a'Ghlo directly in front as it cleared completely while I descended. i took a running approach to the descent though - 25 minutes from summit to bike, nice to up the pace for a change (1.24 for the 10k/750m outing). After a snack and drink, the gravel bike return down Glen Tilt was even more delightful and I stopped frequently for photos - some really beautiful sections of native woodland and hidden pools. I had a bath in the Tilt before heading for home.

Allt Taige horseshoe

Peaks: Carn nan Gobhar (993), Sgurr na Lapaich (1150), Sgurr nan Clachan Geala (1093)

Area: Loch Mullardoch, Scotland

These hills between Strathfarrar and Mullardoch are quite remote, even if you can get fairly close to them by road. That road leads up from Cannich through its beautiful glen until it reaches the dam at the end of Loch Mullardoch. Here I spent the night, which was very windy at first, watching hares, mistle thrushes and wheatears. The morning was cloudy again, so I took my time before heading out along the north of the loch. I missed the path up the forepeak of Mullach na Moile, instead heading up the bleak valley of Allt Mullardoch before striking west up a very steep hillside. This was direct at least, and I found a little scrambling before reaching the Mullach. Prospects were a little bleak ahead, a thick cloudbase draped quite low around the peaks, including Carn nan Gobhar, to which I was heading. This was a rocky slog, reminiscent of the Carneddau, which led to a double top. The mist was pretty dense, so I hung around for a while. I was in no rush, and I began to get hints of a clearance which I felt would make the day far more pleasant and interesting. Eventually I got bored so took a bearing north-west towards the obvious bealach below Lapaich. At this point the mist began to clear and as I approached the bealach I could see the wonderful lonely loch of Tuill Bearnaich and the snowy Coire nan Each above. This was one of those places that exerts a peculiar pull - I experience a similar phenomenon above the Oxnadalur valley in Iceland. Hard to leave, a wonderful ambience, with golden plover adding their distinctive notes to it, along with a distant ring ouzel. To the north, even remoter valleys drained into Strathfarrar. Above the bealach, the east ridge of Sgurr na Lapaich heads upwards through little crags: with a wonderful cwm left and the loch below, mist swirling around but much less dense now. At the top, a little scrambling as the ridge narrows to a small summit. This was tremendous, a great peak, and I got intermittent views of the valleys all around as the mist drifted in and out. Then came a delightful romp along the lip of the cwm heading south to Sgurr nan Clachan Geala, a distinctive top. Again, this felt so special I sat there for some time just drinking it in. Eventually I dropped down directly to the base of the valley containing the Allt Taige, which my route had formed a horseshoe around. Slightly boggy down this, with lots of little deer paths but nothing very established. I ended up heading all the way down to the lochside, and the sun finally came out in earnest at this point, illuminating the entire valley. It soon became very hot and rather tiring along the path and back across the Allt Taige, which apparently has a fearsome reputation when in spate. Then a drive to Inverness via the Beauly road in glorious sunshine, and down the A9 to Feshiebridge.