Saturday, December 31, 2022

Chester parkrun

'Race': Chester parkrun
Time/Position: 19.30 (10th from 260 [1st V50])
My worst ever parkrun finishing position, but given that this was the first time I had run at an even vaguely quick pace since mid-September, I was pretty pleased. Only the second time I've done the B course, which takes a tighter loop with less off-road running. That said, it was still pretty slippery in the conditions. High HR at times, but mainly in the final mile.

Wednesday, December 28, 2022

Bethesda hills

Peaks: Moel Faban, Llefn, Gyrn, Moel Wnion, Drosgl, Gyrn Wigau
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
Like most people, I tend to neglect this side of the Carneddau in favour of the higher peaks. I remember doing the old Moel Wnion race route from Rachub nearly 20 years ago, but apart from that the tops of the first few little hills have rarely been visited. They are Bethesda's home hills, and I was up Moel Faban from the central car park in less than 20 minutes: strong winds and grim conditions higher up, so this was a good choice. Over the lumps of Llefn and the impressive outcrop of Gyrn to gain the standard path up Wnion with a lovely tailwind. That became a challenging crosswind for the ancient Llwybr Aryg track which skirts and contours the higher mountain of Drosgl. No real path to the summit, so I ploughed up through the boulders, mist flirting with the top, then plummeted down towards Gyrn Wigau. From here, a superb and exhilarating path weaves down to Gerlan far below: great views of the high Carneddau. A nice tour of the different parts of Bethesda (there aren't many more interesting towns) by doing it this way too: back down to the central car park through the hilly maze of little streets (1.41 for the 14k/1000m round).

Monday, December 26, 2022

Round the Walls

Race: Round the Walls
Time/Position: 25.48 (34th from 531 [1st V50])
A great relief to be back racing after my longest lay-off since E was born in 2004! By far my worst ever finishing position at the Walls race (perhaps the 12th or 13th time I've done it, 50th anniversary race this year) although that seemed inevitable as I haven't raced or done any speed sessions since developing glandular fever after London in October. I have finished as high as 8th in the past, but just tried to maintain a steady pace today - only the second time I have ever done it anticlockwise. In fact, this was possibly the best and most satisfying of the many different route variations over the years: a proper lap of the racecourse (surprisingly dryish), then east round the perimeter Deeside bike path to gain the walls on Lower Bridge Street. I had no idea how I would feel so took it very steady before picking it up just a little as we crossed Northgate: in fact my HR stayed relatively low throughout, which is very promising after the travails of the last few months - finishing first V50 was pure fluke, however. Morgan had a superb debut at his first ever proper race, finishing in the top 100, so a good day all round.

Tuesday, December 20, 2022

Carneddau south

Peaks: Pen yr Ole Wen, Carnedd Dafydd
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
A very rapid thaw, even by Welsh standards, with almost all snow gone and gale-force south-westerlies raking the tops. However, this was still another trip up new peaks for M, around a little loop I have done many times over several decades. A predictably wet slog up from Glan Dena, but then nicely clearing weather with spectacular cloudbursts as we took the little scramble above Cwm Lloer. Very windy along the ridge, with a painful hail shower, but great to be up here with the young man. Always awkward to descend from Dafydd to Cwm Lloer but we took a great line today and the shores of Ffynnon Lloer have always ranked highly in my list of favourite spots. Nicely sheltered too. 

Thursday, December 15, 2022

Glyderau west

Peaks: Y Garn, Foel Goch, Mynydd Perfedd, Carnedd y Filiast
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
I missed the best of the weather yesterday, and did so again today: the early bird did not catch the worm. Still, this superb blocking-high cold snap demands some attention, so I set off up the very icy track to Idwal first thing, the peaks fully draped in white and nicely defined against a pale blue sky. I've been lucky enough to be up here in similar conditions many times over the years, and memories flooded back, especially of the winter climbs at the back of the cwm. Nothing like that planned today (the snow is still unconsolidated and the ice thin anyway), and my compromised physical condition still craves steep upward movement (yet baulks at fast running) for some reason, so the north-east (banana) ridge of Y Garn beckoned. This was superb, quite icy, some snow showers tracking in up Nant Ffrancon from Anglesey - nicely atmospheric with good snow cover. I put my kahtoolas on and adopted a steady uphill pace. I have done gate to summit in 28 minutes in the past, but was inevitably more pedestrian today. Not too shabby though, and I really enjoyed the hard-packed snow towards the top, and the bitterly cold summit shrouded in an icy mist. No place to linger, so I trotted down and along to Foel Goch in some tiring drifts. The weather started to clear as I crossed the deep dip and tiring thick snow up to Perfedd. Some sunshine now, and the mist peeled off Elidir as the sun lit the top rocks of Carnedd y Filiast: wonderful views, clearing in all directions. So far, so very good, but the descent from Filiast proved awkward under a thick blanket of snow. Getting to Ogwen from here is OK normally, but the path is narrow and hard to locate at the best of times. Today it was impossible, and I trawled through the nasty boulder fields for a long time, a very unpleasant 45 minutes down to Ogwen. I have had many unpleasant descents in my time, but this was a bad one. From the old Nant Ffrancon road I was in no state to run back to Ogwen Cottage so again resumed the now familiar fast walk, and it was icy throughout anyway. Crystal clear cloudless skies as I enjoyed a cup of tea and a pasty at the cottage, perfect winter conditions.

Wednesday, December 14, 2022

Carneddau north

Peaks: Llwytmor Bach, Yr Orsedd, Foel Ganol
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
A significant cold snap, long-lasting by the standards of recent years, and even recalling 2010 at times. As such, this was not the most sensible of choices today, due to the untracked nature of the ground and numerous drifts higher up, although time was limited so I couldn't stray too far from Conwy. I set off from the A55 at my now familiar fast walking pace, health still compromised. I would have done this anyway, however, as the road was streaked with black ice - and the path to the falls was similar in places. As a result, I decided against the awkward traverse above the falls, given the likelihood of ice, and ploughed instead straight up the fence - an extremely steep climb. Higher up, the wind was bitter - close to -20 windchill according to the mountain forecast. Around the subpeak of Llwytmor Bach the snow had drifted and this route was obviously not tracked out. I concluded a retreat to Cwm Anafon was the only realistic option, and that was hard enough, soft drifts throughout. I took a shallow gully to the top of Yr Orsedd, a fine place to be in these conditions (this ridge is too low and too close to the sea to hold much snow in normal circumstances). The rest of the fairly narrow ridge down to Foel Ganol was a delight, with an Alpine flavour as the sun came out, rare to have deep snow here, and great views across to Anglesey in front. Behind, Cwm Anafon looked menacing (although the weather infuriatingly cleared later on). From the col, I ploughed down to the tarmac and back down to Aber. 

Wednesday, December 07, 2022

Great End/Glaramara

Peaks: Great End, Allen Crags, Glaramara
Area: Borrowdale, Lake District
The weather is getting colder: temperatures plummeted overnight, and it seemed a good idea to get above the snowline today, which was high. Gone was the cloud of the last two days: crystal clear and bitterly cold as I drove down towards Seathwaite, one of the finest spots in the Lakes. I was vaguely thinking of going up Gable via Base Brown, but in the event I missed the path and instead headed up the main valley towards Stockley bridge. From here, one path goes up to Styhead Tarn (I remember going up here to climb on Gable many years ago). I took the Grains Gill path towards Great End, which looms superbly ahead, staying in view throughout. It is famous for its winter gullies and was snow-covered today. Even better, as far as I can remember I have never been up it before. So it turned into the logical objective for the day. Grains Gill narrows towards the top and becomes a little gorge (Ruddy Gill). Some tricky verglas required caution. At the top, below Great End, I joined the familiar path up to Esk Hause (painful memories of the brutal climax of the Wasdale Fell race). At Esk Hause, the snow cover became thicker, lending a superb Alpine ambience to the route up the Cove. It took me a little while to realise this was the familiar route up Scafell Pike, it just seemed so different in the snow. I had no intention of continuing up the Pike today, so branched off at the col to take in the plateau-like summit of Great End. Superb conditions, nicely snow covered with deep blue skies, and I had it all to myself. Bowfell, Scafell Pike and Gable all glistening white. I trotted back to Esk Hause with the sun dazzling over Esk Pike and Bowfell, then took the long, lumpy continuation ridge over Glaramara. Again, I have done this hill before but many years ago (from Langstrath, I think). The first peak of Allen Crags is reached very quickly, but the rest is a surprisingly long haul over multiple false summits. It is a little like the Glyder ridge at the Capel end, just when you think it's over, it kicks up again. All delightful though, with little frozen tarns dotted around rock outcrops (hardly any snow at this level). The top of Glaramara is equally complex, with numerous mini summits dotted around. I located the highpoint and then began the descent to Seathwaite down frozen turf and very icy north-facing slopes. I soon found myself above Combe Gill, too far north, descending to Seatoller. So I corrected myself and contoured round to embark on the extremely steep and pathless direct descent to Seathwaite. Fabulous views to Gable and Skiddaw were some distraction, but this was a very steep descent, even by my standards. Tricky to regain the base of the valley. A very encouraging three days: although I didn't really run, I did move quickly with some light jogging, and felt no ill-effects although remaining conscious the virus is still with me. Around 3500m of ascent, so things can't possibly be too bad.

Tuesday, December 06, 2022

Honister loop

Peaks: Dale Head, Hindscarth, Robinson, Fleetwith Pike
Area: Borrowdale/Buttermere, Lake District
This outing brought back happy memories of the legendary OMM of 2008, where we took the same route over the Dale Head ridge in 70mph winds and biblical rain, linking arms to avoid being blown over. Later, my tent flew away from the Buttermere camp (literally), cars floated downstream, and the abandoned event featured extensively on the BBC ('2000 runners unaccounted for'). The route up Dale Head was also familiar to me from the Borrowdale fell race, which I also did a long time ago - 2009 maybe? It was very cold at Honister, always a rather bleak spot, but this is a very quick route onto the summits - around 24 minutes from pass to summit. Thick hoar frost and a bitter wind, but signs of a clearance in the weather, which got better for the trot over to Hindscarth (which is set back from the true ridge line). Great views in clearing weather, down to Newlands and across to Pillar and Gable. Wonderful to be up here feeling relatively normal again (although still not able to properly run, I never felt especially tired and moved briskly throughout - albeit far slower than the last time I was here, the Anniverary Waltz fell race in 2016, which remains probably my best performance in Lakeland). I took the steep short cut direct to the flat summit of Robinson and its great views over Grasmoor and the Solway Firth. I could clearly see Criffel in Dumfries, which we ran up three years ago. I took a steep, obscure but direct descent down to Buttermere, then jogged up to Gatesgarth with the ridge of Fleetwith Pike looms above. As with Blencathra yesterday, I have only been up the Pike once, a strange omission as it is another fine mountain. I adopted the now familiar rapid uphill walk, a function of my glandular fever: entirely comfortable throughout. The ridge is superb, and rather like Hall's Fell yesterday leads in an elegant beeline to the summit with a little mild scrambling towards the top: around 32 minutes, which was quite pleasing given fitness levels and the stage of the day. The summit of Fleetwith Pike is one of the best spots in the Lakes, superb views over Buttermere and across to the ridge from Haystacks. Lots of memories of different races and mountain marathons came flooding back. A short jog down the continuation traverse line (with some sunshine) led down to the Dubs quarry road and a toastie at the Honister cafe. Later, a little mountain bike outing. And after that, a run from the YHA to the top of Castle Crag. I couldn't resist the latter, as it features as a short fell race: it is something like a 3k blast (or less) along the banks of the Derwent to the steep climb to the tiny summit, which occupies a famously beautiful spot above the Jaws of Borrowdale. In my compromised state of health (and after this morning's outing) it took me 20 minutes from the door of the hostel to the summit of Castle Crag. A wonderful few minutes enjoying the view and ambience before ambling back to relax at the hostel with a pint of Loweswater Gold.

Monday, December 05, 2022

Blencathra

Peak: Blencathra
Area: Northern Lakes
Arguably the most impressive mountain in the Lakes, so it is remarkable that I've only been up Blencathra once before, way back in the mid 90s. I seem to remember we went up Sharp Edge and down Hall's Fell that day. The weather was turning increasingly wintry as I set off from the edge of Threlkeld in the early afternoon after an easy drive up. The path headed up a little stream valley before contouring east to join the base of Hall's Fell ridge, which leads in a near-perfect beeline for the summit, definitely one of the UK's most direct ascents. I am still barely able to run, no real improvement, but moving quickly uphill (and moving quickly in the hills generally) is absolutely no problem. So this was perfect: it climbs at least 600m in 2k and doesn't really let up in steepness. Towards the top, it gets a little rocky and this was the exact point that thick hoar frost kicked in, making life a little tricky for the top section, some surprisingly awkward little slabs and icy rock walls. All good fun, and it finishes bang on the summit (41 minutes). Thick mist, very cold, light snow cover, so I evacuated down the west ridge immediately. This leads comfortably over the shoulder of Blease Fell - where the mist cleared to views over Keswick and Derwent Water - and down equally comfortable zigzags to get back to the stream valley above Threlkeld. Felt good throughout - around 1.36 for the loop. Drove down Borrowdale at dusk via a little side-trip to the Bowderstone: atmospheric. 

Friday, November 25, 2022

Penanmen loop

Peaks: Y Ro Wen
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
Day two of the Strike: Wales v Iran (with pint and full breakfast) in the morning, so just time for this little outing as the light began to fade. My body craves upward movement, and struggles going downhill, so I set off at a fast walking pace from Dolwyddelan and located the main track that leads all the way to the top of Y Ro Wen. I have previously done this from the Penmachno side, but this is a lot more civilised and was ideal today. Great views from the summit (36 minutes from village) in the low winter light, huge clouds over the Moelwynion and Siabod looming across the valley. Very uncomfortable descent, partly because of my current issues, partly because Sarn Helen is currently buried under felled conifers. I found it on instinct after hurdling felled trees and then located myself with Carreg Alltrem, the classic crag, before descending Cwm Penanmen in a beeline back to the village. Refuelled on fish and chips and 'Wal Goch 58' in Conwy.

Thursday, November 24, 2022

Windgather-Goyt Valley

I did the Shining Tor fell race a few years ago, and also did a short version of this outing in abysmal weather with Vic one new year. It seemed a good choice today, the first day of the latest strike. I parked at the Cat and Fiddle and set off under glowering skies, drizzle and low cloud. An easy jog and climb leads to the trig on Shining Tor, and then a long descent on very civilised paving slabs leads to Pym Chair. From here, a minor road leads to Windgather, where I've done a fair amount of climbing over the years. This was all great - the only issue being my spiking heart rate, feeling a pale imitation of my usual self, although never really struggling or especially tired. All very weird, as the entire illness has been. I then dropped down through the woods around Taxal Edge before kinking back north to join the Midshires way. Given the health issues, the return leg was a mix of fast walking and jogging above the Fernlee and Erwood reservoirs. Above this, entirely new ground for me as the tiny road climbs the upper Goyt Valley towards Derbyshire Bridge. This would have all been superb running terrain, if only I could run! Still, I moved fairly quickly and got back to the car two hours after starting: 19k and around 600m, a shorter version of the Windgather fell race, which I've never got round to doing.

Saturday, November 19, 2022

Berwyn jog

Peaks: Vivod, Moel Fferna
Area: Berwyn
Still suffering from lingering glandular fever, and now with an infected ankle (after cutting it a week ago descending the Famau gully). That said, this outing showed some promise, glimmers of improvement. In particular, there doesn't seem any issue with climbs, in fact the steeper the better. My legs feel superbly well rested, of course, and my HR wasn't as high today as it has been recently. I took the climb up Vivod from Glyndyfrdwy that I had failed to find (but descended) last month. The weather was superb - a cold, autumnal morning with mist in the Dee Valley. At the top of the track, I missed the overgrown path leading to the main traverse path but ploughing through the bracken wasn't too bad. Up to the top of Vivod, and then along the North Berwyn Way all the way to Moel Fferna, around 5k of undulating terrain. Again, I felt better than I have done recently, and my HR was highish but stable. From Moel Fferna's summit, the usual extensive views over Berwyn. It is a little tricky to descend to Nant y Pandy: thick bracken and gorse all around. It is short-lived though, and I gained the main track down the valley fairly quickly. Good running down this to a rough tarmac road that leads back to Glyndyfrdwy.

Wednesday, November 16, 2022

Tal y Fan indirect

Peaks: Foel Lwyd, Tal y Fan
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
Diagnosed with glandular fever over a month ago, ergo my longest ever lay-off from racing, and indeed any real effort. This is incredibly frustrating, as I was in pretty good form, but being positive I have at least been able to get out for gentle outings, so it's a little better than being injured. This was my longest and most ambitious outing for over a month, only 15k/750m. The illness has been very mild but also very slow-burning (infuriatingly) so I took this cautiously, conscious of my HR as I climbed up the steep road out of Rowen towards the 'grit bin'. As ever, steep climbs are much more comfortable than road running, and my heart-rate stayed down. It was a stunning autumn morning: crystal clear. Hard work up to Bwlch y Ddaefaen, but then easier again for the steep climb from the bwlch up Foel Lwyd. I last did this, massively dehydrated, with Peter on our 'sea to sea' epic from Porthmadog to Conwy. The ridge to Tal y Fan and beyond is always awkward, rocky and lumpy throughout, but then I really enjoyed the grassy descent to Llangelynin old church: HR far too high, but it didn't actually feel hard. A superb ancient bridleway, new to me, plunges down from the chapel to the ancient woodland above Tyddyn Mawr: wet and rocky.

Saturday, October 08, 2022

Vivod

Peaks: Vivod
Area: Berwyn
Just a leg stretcher after London, in the knowledge that it's not easy to locate the paths on the Dee Valley side of the Berwyn. That was indeed the case, and the lane leading to the bridleway up Vivod from Glyndyfrdwy is not even marked. In the end, I marched through the village and headed up the valley below Moel Fferna. This merges to the little lane that crests the main Berwyn ridge, an ideal mode of ascent. From here I headed east over Bwlch y Clawdd to Vivod, then down the way I had intended to go up!

Sunday, October 02, 2022

London Marathon

Race: London Marathon
Time/Position: 2.54.28 (1174 from 42,000 [64th V50])
After such a wonderful race last year, a perfect 'negative split' experience in my 10th London Marathon, this - my 11th London - was rather different. Not a disaster, by any means, and I did execute my race plan fairly well. That basic plan was to go through half in 1.25 and have a shot at 2.50 if I felt good, but knock it back a bit if 2.50 seemed unrealistic. After a relaxed first couple of miles, I upped the pace as we reached the merge point in Woolwich. From here to Cutty Sark my pace was a little too quick, in retrospect, at around 3.50 per km (40.13 at 10k, although that was because of the slow start). Given my usual lack of specific training (only two proper long runs, and both of those slow) it was obvious that I would pay for this later: there was no realistic way I could hold it over the last 10k given the lack of long runs in training. The key to London, for me at least, is to be crossing Tower Bridge in comfort: this really should be an exhilarating highlight, and if it isn't, you have a problem. To an extent, it was again this year, but I did begin to fade after going through half in 1.25.31. Around the Isle of Dogs I was definitely beginning to tire, and sensed my pace dropping. I felt reasonably confident that I could hold it together if I knocked it back slightly and abandoned 2.50, so did this and managed to keep things going a little more slowly along the Embankment. This was all in stark contrast to last year, when I got progressively quicker throughout the race and ran the last 10k in exactly 40 minutes. All the crowds back again this year, back to the usual atmosphere, and the weather was nicely cool again - although the sun just started to peek through as I finished (good timing, as it then got quite warm). A successful 14 days of running - kicked off by the Vyrnwy half, which put me joint 5th in the all-time V50 north Wales rankings, then the Farndon 10k with put me 10th (also currently 10th for 5 mile and 5th for 5k).

Sunday, September 25, 2022

Brecon Beacons

Peaks: Corn Du, Pen y Fan
Area: Brecon Beacons
A perfect way to break the journey down to Cardiff with M, this short outing from the Storey Arms ticked off another iconic Welsh peak for the young man. I've been up Pen y Fan at least four times previously, but never from this side - it has always been from more interesting directions before, at least two of these have been during races (Pen y Fan and the tough AL Brecon Beacons race) and a couple of hillwalks from the northern valleys. After an embarrassing error in a conifer forest, we ploughed up the giant track which leads from Pont ar Daf up the featureless western slopes. This is quick and direct but not exactly inspiring, although it improved at the col, with a short, steep climb up sandstone shelves to Corn Du, which we had to ourselves. It was around 4pm, quite cold and windy, with mist just above the summits. Nice views down to the Bristol Channel and across to the Carmarthen Fan. We nipped across to Pen y Fan where we had a snack enjoying the superb view down to Brecon and across to Cribyn: memories of various races hereabouts. The descent was very quick, and we continued refreshed down to Cardiff.

Farndon 10k

Race: Farndon 10k
Time/Position: 35.54 (6th from 351 [1st V50])
A last-minute decision to do this as a final sharpener before London, hoping that decent recent form would allow me to dip under 36 for the first time in a few years. It did, but only just, and I was rather disappointed in the performance, being unable to hold my early pace. I was hanging on for the entire middle section of the race, essentially, all very different to Vyrnwy last week. I went off a little too fast, perhaps, and the positions were sorted within a mile. There was no way I could catch the two in front, and I ran the entire race in isolation, again unlike last week. I have never found it a particularly fast course, and don't enjoy the uphill drags, regardless of how mild they are. Around 6k I felt I might blow completely but just about held it together and had a slightly better finish. I was rarely comfortable, however, and it didn't feel like a good performance (time puts me 10th V50 in the all-time north Wales rankings).

Sunday, September 18, 2022

Vyrnwy half marathon

Race: Vyrnwy half marathon
Time/Position: 1.18.04 (35th from 825 [1st V50])
I was convinced that I had a decent time in me this year, despite the six consecutive disappointing 80 minute half marathons I've run since entering my 50s. At times, that had looked like a ceiling, but today I felt strong and controlled throughout - and thoroughly enjoyed it. I ran 1.18.25 the last time I did the event in 2011 so it was really pleasing to go slightly quicker than that today. More importantly, it's also one of the most satisfying races around, in a landscape that I always enjoy: I spent a fortnight working in Llanwddyn in the 90s. It was also nice to go with Dave and Kathryn today, with the event a little more commercial than it used to be! The uphill start is fine, and actually forces you to think hard about pacing. After the dam I just set a nice 6 minute mile pace, and a good group of around eight formed. A slight headwind so it would have been nice to swap leads, but three of them later thanked me for my solid pace setting! The great thing about Vyrnwy is the way the road hugs the shore, even at the wilder far end, and I accepted I was on a decent day at the turn around - this is always a great feeling, not all that common, and something to be savoured as you power along in a good strong group. Almost certainly a negative split, as you know you have a very fast final mile to look forward to after the dam. Felt pretty good, and won my category (joint 5th in the all-time north Wales V50 rankings).

Saturday, September 10, 2022

King John's Castle

Race: King John's Castle fell race
Time/Position: 39.49 (3rd from 42)
I came second at this race when it was run clockwise a few years ago but only had vague memories of doing it this way round, anticlockwise - apparently the standard direction for the race. Whatever, it is definitely easier this way round and I really enjoyed the outing, one of several different options this weekend. I've over-raced recently, so deliberately took it fairly easy initially, up the long climb from the village up towards Moel Llanfair. Once at the saddle between Llanfair and Gyw, most of the hard work is done. This has always been my favourite part of the Clwydians, and I pelted down the track below Llanfair and kept a slow but steady pace going up to the top of Moel y Plas, moving into third place. I took the circuitous descent rather than the direct and found it better, less awkward. Fast running down the track to the final cross-country section, which is something of a sting in the tail as the terrain is tricky and overgrown through meadows, copses, nettles and little limestone walls. 

Thursday, September 08, 2022

Y Garn

Peaks: Y Garn
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
Another iconic Welsh peak ticked off for M, adding to his growing list. Always a huge pleasure to introduce the young man to a new hill - he would be a couple of years older than me on my first time up Y Garn, but pretty close really. The long period of high pressure is now over, but low cloud seemed to be lifting a bit as we walked round the shores of Idwal. Then it was the familiar haul below Twll Ddu to Llyn y Cwn, with mist clearing a little. The easy slopes to the top were also misty but there was a spectacular clearance on the way down the NE ridge: a nice reward with the cloud parting and views of Idwal and Ogwen Cottage.

Tuesday, September 06, 2022

Wirral MT Series, Royden Park

Race: Wirral MT Series (Royden Park)
Time/Position: 30.28 (19th from 359 [2nd V50])
Probably the hardest and most varied of the four Wirral multi-terrain fixtures - I missed this last year but did the other three. I ran 50 seconds quicker than this in 2015, with terrible DOMS following the Ben Nevis race. I do wonder whether it was a tad shorter then, without the first tiny field perhaps, as I went off pretty hard on the first lap (which heads up to the awkward little sandstone ridge above Thurstaston, lots of rocky steps, then drops down to a flat sprint through the woods). Started to blow on the second lap, admittedly, but perked up in the woods and finished three seconds behind the first V50, couldn't quite catch him.

Sunday, September 04, 2022

VB half marathon

Race: Village Bakery half marathon (Wrexham)
Time/Position: 1.20.52 (85th from 1385)
Undoubtedly a race too far. I don't know how many times I have done the VB half over the years, perhaps eight or more, and I was well prepared for this in every way apart from one: putting in too much of an effort on Friday night combined with the double header earlier in the week and the two mountain days. As a result, it was yet another 80 minute half marathon, almost unbelievably my 6th in the past two years: no matter how I approach them tactically, no matter what the course is like, I run 80 minutes, around three minutes down on my 2013 PB, every time. I was reasonably conservative today, but never felt particularly lively, although I did perk up around the half way mark and felt quite strong over the back end of the course as it heads towards Holt. But the gentle climb up Francis Lane, which goes on for almost 3k, finished me off (as it did last year) and I saw my target time of 1.18 disappear.

Friday, September 02, 2022

Deeside ORGP

Race: Deeside ORGP (race 4)
Time/Position: 24.54 (3rd from 54 [1st V50])
Although I was fairly confident that the V50 series win was sewn up, I initially thought I might be in with a chance of the overall series win (by default, that is, as you have to do at least three races to count). I was wrong, as it happens, but it meant that I went much harder than I had intended to, with the VB half marathon coming up on Sunday. As with the previous two races, Jez and I were neck and neck, and pushed each other on nicely. Two other runners were out in front, and the route was taken anticlockwise this time. I moved into third just after Hawarden Bridge and stayed there around the meadows to the finish, although conscious of being pushed the whole way. A good session and a great series, but possibly a little too close to Sunday for comfort. I think I finished second overall in the series, first V50.

Thursday, September 01, 2022

Glyder Fawr combination

Peaks: Glyder Fawr
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
Idwal Staircase is a giant sluice, a watercourse that tumbles down from the upper slopes of Glyder Fawr into a broad, slanting gully that marks the end of the Idwal Slabs. I had only ever done it in winter before, on fragile ice, because I have always concentrated on the proper rock climbs hereabouts, not the scrambles. But I have done so little climbing since Covid that I feel mild scrambles are the way to reacquaint myself with the art. After such a dry summer, I felt it might even be completely dry. After a gentle jog from Ogwen, it was clear that it was - and I was up the main staircase in less than five minutes, a lot of fun in these conditions, just the sort of gentle, juggy reintroduction to rock that I needed. From here, the route moves left to a series of slabs. I went too far up initially, then baulked at the left-hand line, instead settling for a combination of a steep but grassy gully, very narrow, and the right-hand side of the upper slabs. At the top, this gains Senior's Ridge. I was tiring slightly, just walking, but enjoyed the broad ascent, which I rarely do. At the top I took some of the steps direct, lovely rough rock. The mist was down around the top of Cwm Cneifion, so I just contoured round the top of it, always the best way to locate the Gribin. Trotted down this as the mist cleared, then took the left-hand cut through to Idwal rather than the steps from Bochlwyd. Very steady and slow throughout, feeling tired and trying to conserve energy.  

Wednesday, August 31, 2022

Elidir Fawr/Penmaenbach

Peaks: Elidir Fawr
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
I had a strange yen to plough up Elidir Fawr from Nant Peris. Arguably the worst slog in Snowdonia, I have only ever done it in Ras Elidir, and my two completions of the 3000s (2017 and 1992!). Nobody does this for pleasure, as it climbs from the village past the Vagabonds hut then relentlessly hunts down the summit. It gets even worse after the stream is crossed, after which the route is just a heads-down slog to the top. I reached the true summit in around 47 minutes from the tarmac, which is less than impressive considering I ran 69 minutes in the race a few years ago. I took the looping race descent route, down to the bwlch, then contouring round the head of Cwm Dudodyn cutting down before the climb to Y Garn. I remember this as superb and exhilarating in the race, as it was getting dark and was hugely atmospheric, but today I just felt tired and jaded after recent exertions. This meant that I found it more awkward than I should have done, narrow in places, rocky in others, and it took 34 minutes from summit to village via the lip of the cwm. On the way back to Conwy, I took in Penmaenbach arete (not really an arete, a ridge at best) for only the second ever time. A mild trespass to avoid the campsite, and then the enjoyable ridge, which seems to be getting more traffic these days and is clean and well-travelled. It is a fun line, and I took 14 minutes to gain the contouring path below Penmaenbach. A hobbling descent through the ferns and woods followed.

Monday, August 29, 2022

Cilcain Mountain Race

Race: Cilcain Mountain Race
Time/Position: 39.03 (16th from 178 [2nd V50])
Still the race I have done most often (it is now 19 years since my debut) and this was by far my worst ever time and finishing position. Inevitable, really, given yesterday's 10k, which itself felt like an effort too far. The time was lost on the climb today: after a quick initial plunge I really struggled and was a couple of minutes down on my usual ascent pace. The final push was pretty desperate, although I revived a little for the descent - just under 14 minutes to the road. Dreadful haul up the road, although didn't lose any more places. Failed to retain the Llys Fynydd V50 shield, unsurprisingly.

Sunday, August 28, 2022

Ellesmere 10k

Race: Ellesmere 10k
Time/Position: 36.21 (9th from 521 [1st V50])
It's never nice to be hanging on for dear life in a 10k, and I usually pride myself on my pacing. I was aiming to run around 35.50 today, or a bit quicker, considering the 17.00 I ran at Capenhurst. It was going fairly well, bang on target until the last 2-3k, where the pace began to slip as the route takes a gravel path along the side of the canal. I only entered the evening before so my preparation was hardly ideal and I never felt entirely comfortable. I have never done this race before, however, and it is a nice varied course which runs through Ellesmere to gain the open country and little lanes around Cross. Then the route loops back to the banks of The Mere itself before finishing along the Llangollen Canal towpath, where I began to crumble. I was in 6th or 7th place for much of the race, but lost two places in the last few hundred metres as my pace dropped - still a full two minutes slower than my PB set 10 years ago.

Saturday, August 27, 2022

Foel Goch (Bala)

Peaks: Foel Goch, Garnedd Fawr
Area: Arenig/Bala
An excellent choice for anti-social types on a Bank Holiday, these hills will never be crowded no matter how many staycationers arrive. Indeed, I have only been up them once before, and that was back in the 1990s. They are fairly unpleasant in places underfoot, although a decent bridleway runs north-eastwards from Pentre farm (gained by a quiet road from Cefn-ddwysarn). This is overgrown but civilised to the open hill, then becomes boggy and hard to follow below Orddu. As a result, I just ploughed directly north-west up the steep side of Foel Goch. I was trying to save energy so this wasn't ideal. Extensive views out to Arenig and over to the Clwydians, these are fairly isolated little hills. Yet another sunny and dry day - in a normal year the terrain would be even more arduous. An excellent path leads along the bumpy vague ridge to Garnedd Fawr, certainly one of Wales's more obscure summits! I missed out Moel Emoel in favour of a direct descent to Nant Cefn Coch, an untravelled and predictably boggy locale! A blend of deep tussocks and sinking bog eventually led to a track back to the farm and the quiet lane to Cefn-ddwysarn (1:45 for the morning loop).

Thursday, August 25, 2022

Round the Bays 30k

Behind with the marathon training, as ever. This was a nice loop, from Bodlondeb to Deganwy via the coast path through the tiring dunes to the West Shore. Then clockwise round the Orme, always a pleasure, all the way along the Llandudno prom to the sharp climb over the Little Orme. Then past Llandrillo and down to Colwyn Bay before returning via Station Road in Mochdre, quiet lanes to Junction and back.

Monday, August 22, 2022

Zaan banks/Texel loop

The Hague half marathon fell victim to the Netherlands' stringent Covid policies, so I was left with a spare Schipol flight. I finally got a small window in which to take it - so decided to do a half marathon of my choosing, fitting neatly into my London schedule. Staying in Zaandam, I ran up the west bank of the river - disappointingly constrained with desirable residences hogging the waterfront. Crossing the river at the Lassiestraat bridge, things improved considerably as I took the east bank to the famous Zaanse Schans, a well-known tourist attraction and a stereotypical Dutch landscape. It is actually slightly contrived, as the windmills (which are genuine) were moved here from around the region, but it was still delightful, and the watery polder landscape, superb cycling infrastructure and ultra-neat farmland all gave off the spirit of place I always seek. A long detour round the inlet of De Poel, then it was down the Kalf to Oostzijde, which hugs the Zaan back towards my hotel (24k, so a little longer than planned). After breakfast, I took the train to Den Helder and the ferry to Texel. I had expected this to be pleasant but it was a brilliant little trip. I hired a Dutch-style bike for pennies and had a wonderful afternoon on a gentle 36km loop around the south of the island, hugging the coast to Oudeschild, then through excellent bird habitat to the delightful village of Oosterend. From here I cut inland and crossed the island from east to west through De Waal and Den Burg towards the Duinen van Texel national park, mature dappled woodland and a delightful contrast. Then it was back via Den Hoorn, a wonderful tranquil atmosphere in beautiful warm sunshine. As everybody knows, Dutch cycling culture and infrastructure is remarkable - but it was brilliant to actually experience it. I have only ever ridden a heavy sit-up-and-beg bike once, and that was on Orkney last year (hard work with the hills!). This was simple and delightful, the obvious solution to so many problems!

Saturday, August 20, 2022

Two Hillforts

Race: Two Hillforts (8.8m/2600ft)
Time/Position: 1.16.03 (4th from 42)
There have been various versions of this race over the years, from the old 'Tavern Trial' onwards. This is only the second time I have done this particular version, but it is really good and does make the most of the northern Clwydians. From Llangynhafal, a steep climb takes the breath away before a fast contouring section north to gain another steep climb which eventually leads to the contouring path which heads towards the Moel Arthur col. Then comes the horribly steep climb straight up the front of Arthur, followed by an awkwardly narrow descent until the blast down towards Pen y Cloddiau. Rather than taking this direct via OD, the race heads up the gentler track, which still proves quite a lungbuster and goes on for longer than you might think. A steep kink up to the fortifications and then the top of Pen y Cloddiau after which the navigation is easy: follow OD all the way to the Cilcain col. This final section went reasonably well (I can remember blowing on it in the past) and I felt fairly strong by my standards. I was closing on fourth place for the final section along OD and finally went past him on the last descent back to the farm, which is grassy and very quick. A couple of minutes quicker than when I last did the race, although that was in 2019, and I wasn't racing much at the time.

Wednesday, August 17, 2022

Capenhurst 5k

Race: Capenhurst 5k
Time/Position: 17.00 (27th from 310 [3rd V50])
This has always been something of a blue-riband local event, although it has become more competitive over the years. I ran 17.04 on this course in 2012, 17.07 in 2017, and 16.59 in 2010 - so this was very much on trend! I was breaking in the new Alphafly shoes, probably not ideal over a short, twisting course, but they served me pretty well as I felt OK over the very familiar course. My splits were pleasingly consistent although a 3.19 final kilometre suggested I may have been able to squeeze a little more out, and it was a very competitive veterans field! The finish is marginally downhill, and it has always been a fast course, but Mid-Cheshire (now my PB) is definitely even faster.

Friday, August 12, 2022

Gribin-Pyg

Peaks: Yr Wyddfa
Area: Snowdon, Eryri
Although only short, the Gribin gives a nice scramble in the mould of Crib Goch and is an excellent way of avoiding the Snowdon summer crowds, which in recent years have risen to extraordinary levels. I don't really see why I should be pushed off the mountain by those crowds, so deploy numerous strategies to make it possible to enjoy it in relative solitude even in summer (the 'Cwm Glas horseshoe', for example). This combination of routes via the Gribin is another method, first parking in Dyffryn Mymbyr and cycling the 3k to Pen y Pass - thereby saving £20 and no end of hassle, superbly satisfying. The parking changes do seem to have been successful in reducing some of the traffic and lowering the numbers, which is good. I set off at a steady jogging pace along the Miners track, reaching the green hut at Llyn Llydaw in 11 minutes. A drought and heatwave has been building for days, and after the causeway around Llydaw I experienced some of the hottest weather I have known in 35 years in the Snowdonian mountains. Baking hot up the steep track to Glaslyn, where the views of Clogwyn y Garnedd were superb - no haze, perfect clarity, deep blue sky. A mild ridge then leads to a shoulder and then the meat of the scramble up the crest of the Gribin with great views to Lliwedd and the Trinities. Just over 10 minutes to Bwlch y Saethau, after which I took the Pedol Peris direct route up the East Ridge. I had been feeling good until this point, despite a long and tiring week, but my quads exploded as I took the steep scrambly direct ascent to Snowdon summit, really slowing dramatically and therefore just failing to break the hour from PyP to summit. After a short break battling the crowds (not too bad by the standards of recent years) and enjoying the very familiar view, I took the Pyg track all the way back to PyP, not the quickest way down due to the rather awkward terrain and my tiredness compounded this - 46 minutes from summit to PyP. A five minute downhill ride back to the car.

Thursday, August 11, 2022

Deeside ORGP

Race: Deeside Off-Road Grand Prix (race 3)
Time/Position: 25.51 (3rd from 58 [1st V50])
Although a little tired after my exploits on the coast path, I felt fine once the race started. And although my time was a minute slower than race 1 (I was away for race 2), the course was almost 400 metres longer, with a bigger haul out from the meadowland towards CQ. Jez and I had a great battle through the meadow, then I pulled away a bit for the flat stretch along the Dee towards the Blue Bridge. A sharp headwind made the return a little tricky, but I stayed in third place, well behind the two front runners.

Wednesday, August 10, 2022

Caerfai-Broad Haven (PCP, day 4)

I camped more or less on the coast path itself at Caerfai, because the wind forced me behind the only available sheltering wall, so was back in the groove almost immediately after striking camp. The going was fairly easy towards Solva, with the character of the coast gradually changing. As it becomes less dramatic, it also becomes more anglicised as the Landsker line is approached, or perhaps that is just my feverish imagination. Whatever, as the coast straightens out at the end of St Bride's Bay, the place names become English and the landscape much softer. First though, came a long detour around Solva's famous natural harbour, a calm inlet protected from the elements. It is a delightful place, Cornish in tone, and I wandered through to cross the base before climbing up onto the Gribin ridge (another feature with a more famous northern equivalent!). This led to a delightfully secluded bay, and then the twin peninsulars of Dinas Fawr and Dinas Fach. Easy terrain over coastal fields then leads to the deeply incised Cwm Bach which drops, quite steeply, down to the edge of the vast Newgale Sands - a huge beach which stretches for miles. This is the point at which the walk really changes, scenically and culturally. I had a congealed breakfast at the Duke of Edinburgh pub, diabolical but necessary and I only really had myself to blame for arriving five minutes before the end of the buffet. It did perk me up, however, and I escaped the crowds (who concentrate on one part of Newgale) for the gentler walking over the undulating cliff-tops of Maidenhall Point towards the hidden hamlets of Nolton Haven and Druidston Haven. I had a tent-drying break above the latter in yet more glorious sunshine (hot and humid now, a slight haze in the air). Then it was down to the superb beach and Broad Haven and a much-anticipated swim (the only appropriate coda to the trip, 72 hours after starting) before meeting Stee and Dilys for a very welcome lift all the way back to my car in St Dogmaels.

Tuesday, August 09, 2022

Trefin-Caerfai (PCP, day 3)

A far more leisurely start this morning, with breakfast in the sunshine outside 'Maesgwyn', then a gentle walk with Stee and Norman taking obscure footpaths down to rejoin the coast path at Abereiddi. We headed off in opposite directions, and one of the highlights of the whole route came next for me: the wild section of coast along the northern part of St David's peninsula all the way to the popular beach at Whitesands. This was superb throughout: more glorious weather, although the temperatures were now nudging up towards 'heatwave' territory. Still, the clarity of light remained as I weaved along the complex coastline below the distinctive 'tor' of Penberry, one of several on the peninsula. This entire section is wild and wonderful, especially in this perfect weather, almost mesmerising. I continued above Porth Gwyn, to Penllechwen, then cut inland down a green valley below Carn Llidi at the end of the peninsula to new views over Ramsey sound to the Bishop islands and out to the Atlantic. Porth Meigan and Lleuog were beautiful sandy beaches and here the character of the day changed utterly - from solo isolation to sudden tourist crowds. This reaches a peak at Whitesands, a famous beach, but it did at least mean I could refuel on a hot pie for lunch! I was eager to get back to the peace and quiet of the path, however, and the crowds die away again for the wonderful section hugging Ramsey Sound, another highlight. This whole section is stunning, looking out over Ramsey past St Justinian and Pen dal Aderyn round the headland, very complex and twisting terrain/ The views and aspect then change again - looking south now over St Brides Bay all the way down to Skomer, which I visited as a child - a formative experience that I have never forgotten. The cliff scenery then gets even better (but not so tranquil, popular with day walkers) over hidden Porthlysgi to the inlet of Porth Clais (little islands like Carreg Fran offshore). I decided not to camp there, but continued to Caerfai where I felt it would be prudent to camp to ensure I could eat in St Davids, despite a relatively short 30k day.

Monday, August 08, 2022

Pen Dinas-Trefin (PCP, day 2)

A fairly early start was necessary with a longish day in prospect and an empty tummy. My plan was to take a semi-direct line to Fishguard where I was sure I could source a decent breakfast. Pwllgwaelod in the early morning was beautiful, a velvet sea and backlit cliffs: complete tranquility. The clifftop walk that follows was similar, nobody around and multiple hidden coves. From the deepest inlet, Aber Bach, I cut diagonally inland to the curiously named Tre-wrach, then along a fine bridleway to the main road into Lower Town. This was briefly unpleasant, but quick, and brought me out in Fishguard just as the Popty cafe opened! An absolutely superb full breakfast followed, just the perfect way to replenish my diminished reserves. Through Penyraber where I stocked up for the crossing of Strumble Head, which is rather like the first section yesterday in the sense that there is no water and no shops. After the port at Goodwick, a steep tarmac climb through Harbour Village finally sees off the jarring urban 'sprawl'. Then comes a delightful section - completely empty and completely tranquil with the sea like a millpond. The only sound, apart from insects, came as the Rosslare ferry passed, along with a little fishing boat. Initially, this section looks out over Fishguard Bay to Dinas Island before swinging west to pass numerous little headlands like Pen Anglas and, most notably, Carreg Wastad. This shares its name with a famous Nant Peris crag, but is also the site of the 'last invasion', when French convicts landed in 1797. North of here, I cut the corner to Porthsychan and had a half hour break with a truly wonderful view of Ynys Meicell, Carreg Onnen and the Strumble Head lighthouse. Seals groaning below. Undoubtedly one of the best sections of the PCP follows, tracing remote coves and crags above Pwll Arian and Pen Brush to the big cliffs around Pwll Deri and new views along the St David's peninsula. Pwll Deri is particularly atmospheric, heathery cliffs dropping down to the sea, and dramatic steep coves. I had suggested a time of 4-5pm to meet Stee, so took another little direct line through Trefasser to emerge at Aber Bach, then through a wooded glade to the open beach of Aber Mawr (and the first people I had seen for some time!). Another very quiet section of the coast path follows, very hot now in mid-afternoon, through to Trwyn Llwynog and Ynys y Castell where I cut inland to the hidden village of Abercastle and a much needed tap in the toilet block (the first water since Goodwick, although I purchased a one litre bottle there so was just about OK). Then came an easy finish along the lane to a pint of Cwtch in the Ship, Trefin, and a luxurious and enjoyable (non-camping) evening with the Jones's: 36km/1100m.

Sunday, August 07, 2022

St Dogmaels-Pen Dinas (PCP, day 1)

After enjoying Offa's Dyke so much last year, I decided more or less on a whim to do the best half of the Pembrokeshire coast path 'fastpacking' in a forecast heatwave, and combine it with a long overdue visit to Stee and Jenny in Trefin (around half way). I arrived in St Dogmaels in the early afternoon, and set off for what is considered the hardest and most committing stretch of the entire coast path around 1pm, carrying a muesli bar and half a litre of water. 'Fastpacking' is a horrible neologism, but it does encapsulate my approach, using my lightweight mountain marathon kit and moving quickly - sac reduced now to 3.8kg or so, not including food or water. A steep tarmac climb above Poppit Sands and the mouth of the Teifi eventually gains Cemaes Head. Turning the corner, the entire coastline down to Stumble Head stretches out in front, an enticing prospect. The weather was superb - hot but with a cooling breeze along the cliffs, a sea that was almost purple, and a deep blue cloudless sky. That weather stayed exactly like that for the 72 hours I spent on my route down to Broadhaven. As with OD, the trick is to embrace the spirit, the philosophy of the route, to reset the 'mindset'. In the case of the PCP, it is necessary to appreciate the basic point that the path religiously hugs the coastline throughout, and that coastline is of course complex. So, nothing is direct, nothing is quick. From Cemaes, the highpoint of the route is reached, hundreds of feet above the sea and the impressive cliffs of Pen yr Afr. The heather was in full bloom, adding another colour note to the beautiful scenery. The twisted rocks of Pwllygranant follow, stunning views throughout, superb cliff scenery with the path often close to the edge and lots of steepish ascents. These never last too long, however, and soon the haven of Ceibwr Bay is reached, a hidden, tranquil inlet. Later on comes Pwll y Wrach (witches cauldron), a classic blow-hole caused by the collapse of a sea arch, appearing to be an isolated lagoon. Then comes the final 10k stretch to Newport, right out along the edge of the cliffs again with Pen Dinas and Strumble coming visibly closer. Round the final headland, dehydrated now and ready for a feed and drink in Newport. It took a long time to reach, however, and the path detours to cross the Nevern. By now I was 16 miles into the route but had made decent time - I had fish and chips in mind, but Newport is more highbrow than that (I was last here for the Preseli Beast race a few years ago). Instead, a basic feed and a lot of fluid from the spar had to suffice before I embarked on the final section as the sun dropped. This was still delightful, albeit less spectacular, through Parrog as the sun dropped in front of me, the more twists and turns towards Cwm yr Eglwys after passing numerous hidden coves. I improvised a route up the hillside, more or less guessing the line towards the campsite I'd seen from below. I pitched in an empty corner (the rest of the site was occupied by big camper vans) and enjoyed my inadequate pasta salad after a walk to see if the pub at Pwllgwaelod was open (it wasn't): 32km/1100m.

Saturday, August 06, 2022

Delamere parkrun

'Race': Delamere parkrun
Time/Position: 18.10 (2nd from 199 [1st V50])
This must be one of the longest established parkruns in the region, so it is a little odd that I've never got round to it before. This version is a lovely route, from the big car park at Old Pale, then down towards Blakemere Moss, an attractive wooded lake which the course loops around in its entirety. All of this is off road, but on big tracks with just the occasional mild incline. Hot weather (the start of a heatwave) so it was nice to have some shade. I passed a couple of younger lads at the dappled far end of the lake but finished just behind the young (female) runner in front.

Thursday, August 04, 2022

Moelwynion north

Peaks: Moel Siabod, Carnedd y Cribau, Cerrig Cochion, Ysgafell Wen north
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
I did this stretch numerous times, in both directions, in 2019. The reasons for this foolishness were complicated, but it's always quite hard work and not particularly enjoyable (in my view) between Cribau and Cochion. It is a great way to escape the crowds, however, which is why I took it today. I did a version of this loop the week before doing the Fellsman in April 2019:  resulting in a huge amount of mileage and climbing that week. From PyB, I took the route through the woods to the standard Siabod ascent, taking it easy to reach the summit in 46 minutes. Some light rain, then the long and excellent descent to Carnedd y Cribau, with its superb views over Snowdon. The sun then came out for the long and frustrating haul over the lumpy, boggy country towards Cerrig Cochion - constant hidden dips and the occasional waist-deep bog. By Llyn Edno, things improve: it is one of Snowdonia's loveliest lakes, and the terrain becomes kinder for the jog up the northern end of Ysgafell Wen, a complex triple summit. I dropped down to Llynau'r Cwn for a snack and stream dip, as the cloud finally peeled away from Snowdon directly across the valley. Then it was down towards Llyn Llagi via an untrodden spur. North of the stream down to Nantmor (obscure but lovely, I've done it once or twice before), then down the excellent bridleway that cuts across to Gwynant. Along the lake, and then the minor road which eventually gives way to the stony power station track which used to provide a hard descent on the Snowdonia marathon. It is even harder this way round! At the top, it emerges near Pen y Gwryd, after which I'd planned to climb the Miners Track onto the Glyder ridge at Foel Goch. I was too tired, however, so jogged very slowly down Dyffryn Mymbyr instead, which was distinctly unpleasant - 31km/1500m.

Saturday, July 30, 2022

Conwy parkrun

'Race': Conwy parkrun
Time/Position: 18.02 (3rd from 207 [1st V50])
A course PB by 8 seconds, which was pleasing, although it's only the second time I've ever done it. There can't be many better views from a parkrun, with Conwy Castle and the estuary ever present. There was a fairly stiff breeze and rain as we set off, although it didn't have too much of an effect. The twisting bridge over the railway, which has to be negotiated twice, must take 30 seconds off the times, although the rest of the course is flat (albeit gravelly) so there shouldn't be too many excuses. I didn't feel particularly great, but I was able to keep a decent pace ticking over and finished quite strongly after the bridge.

Thursday, July 28, 2022

Cwm Clogwyn horseshoe

Peaks: Yr Wyddfa
Area: Snowdon, Eryri
The best description for this route is the Cwm Clogwyn horseshoe, although you rarely hear this. I remember doing it years ago with Rich, possibly the reverse of today's route, but had never really 'ran' it before. It would be an exaggeration to say I ran all the way today, particularly after last night's race, but it is certainly very well suited to moving quickly on. Snowdon Ranger is fairly long but also pretty gentle and runnable for the most part. Initial hairpins gain the side of Cwm Clogwyn, with Llechog (a crag I have never visited) notable on the right. Ahead, Snowdon was smothered in mist and I climbed up into it via the headwall which moves over to Moel Cynghorion before swinging up to the railway and Bwlch Glas. The familiar final haul to the summit follows - 62 minutes from the Ranger car park, which is OK. I jogged down through the mist towards Bwlch Main (I was last here in Spring) and then enjoyed the short but delightful ridge (with mist peeling away) above Llechog before embarking on the rather awkward zigzags that form the middle section of the Rhyd Ddu path. These curve east before easier grassy paths and gentle tracks lead down to the village. From here, a short section of the Snowdonia marathon route along the road back to the Snowdon Ranger car park: around 1.57 in total for the 15k/930m round.

Wednesday, July 27, 2022

Ponderosa hill race

Race: Ponderosa (6.4k/900ft)
Time/Position: 28.54 (7th from 88 [2nd V50])
Great to be back racing after all the slow, sweaty plodding up big mountains. I have done this race a lot over the years, at least six or seven times, and always enjoy it: the rewards of the very long and fast descent are out of all proportion to the demands of the very short climb at the start! Pleasingly, I was less than 20 seconds down on my best time for the course, perhaps because the descent from the mast is now down a much broader track (at least initially). I also felt pretty good, however, and made the top of Cyrn y Brain in nine minutes precisely. Positions were sorted within a few hundred metres, and although I got close to the young lad in front I was never going to get past him on the descent, which goes on for quite a while and always feels very exciting and fast. Definitely drier than usual, but I still began to slow fairly dramatically on the final climb to the finish near the top of the Old Horseshoe Pass, which is always the crux of this race, legs like jelly after the manic descent.

Thursday, July 21, 2022

Mont Mounier

Peaks: Mont Demant (2441m), Petit Mounier (2728m), Mont Mounier (2817m)
Area: Peone, Maritime Alps
Mounier has been a big gap in my Maritime Alps CV for years. It is perfectly straightforward, in fact it is one of the most popular peaks in the entire southern alps with a very clear marked path. It is also very prominent, and towers above most other mountains in this south-western corner. However, from my usual stamping grounds it is hard to reach - which is some explanation for the fact that I've never got round to it before. It was time to put that right, and I left my gite above Peone for the short drive to the Col d'Espaul and set off around 8.30am in the most perfect weather of the trip so far: deep blue cloudless skies, not outrageously hot. Mounier is eminently suited to a running approach, but sadly I had to take water and a few other precautions and the only sac I had was my big 30 litre number, which wasn't ideal for fast movement. So, a gentle jog was the right approach, and I quickly reached La Colle on a broad track before heading off uphill towards the limestone crags of the Barre des Moulines. A few hairpins negotiate this, and then there are some open meadows before the lunar landscape that characterises the upper sections of Mounier is reached. Then comes the subpeak of Mont Demant, barely an independent summit but noticeable from below, hence its status I suspect. The route levels off through limestone screes across Mont Demant until a junction with the GR5 is reached along with a superb view of Petit and Mont Mounier across a dry valley, the entire ridge visible. The route climbs up to the Col de Crousette on the left, and then up a broad ridge to the summit of the Petit Mounier, with the remains of an mountain hut which used to stand on this site. A short jog and then the classic view of Mont Mounier, a perfect mountain rising in parallel lines. To reach it, a perfect horizontal ridge which was pure pleasure throughout. It was a mixture of limestone shelves and short scrambly sections, very mildly exposed but a wonderful catwalk. Where this ends, the final summit cone rises, and I reached the summit cross is 1.45 from the Col d'Espaul, not great but not too shabby given the size of my rucsack (I hate the weight penalty that water carrying imposes, but there really wasn't much choice on Mounier). The prominence of the mountain means that the views are those of the 'aeroplane' variety, very far reaching but perhaps not the most photogenic. I picked out all most of the peaks I'd climbed in the Mercantour (Argentera particularly notable, distantly above the Tinee valley) and admired the view over Cime Negre down towards my gite, with the upper valley above Peone clearly visible 2000 metres below. The most notable feature is the lack of vegetation - these limestone hills have a dessicated, desert mountain feel to them that is very distinctive and memorable. I skipped back to the Petit Mounier where I had a brief snack before continuing downwards at a sustainable loping pace: 2.48 for the out-and-back to the Col d'Espaul, 17k/1100m.

Wednesday, July 20, 2022

Cime du Fourchas

Peaks: Cime du Fourchas (2783m)
Area: Vens, Maritime Alps
Apart from the two easy peaks yesterday afternoon, everything else around the hut was a bit more involved. I couldn't find any details about ascent routes, yet from the opposite side of the valley both Cime du Fourchas (the mountain that frames Lacs de Vens and a million pictures) and the higher Clai Superior both looked feasible. In fact, I worked out potential routes from the summit of Cime des Blanches. The hut had a book full of topos but none of them went to the most eye-catching summits. After breakfast, the weather looked a little unsettled - there was a fair amount of cloud around and even a hint of rain in the air, gone was the morning stability of the last two days. My phone was out of charge, and this all meant that an even higher degree of caution was necessary. I initiated the plan I'd hatched yesterday, following a definite path up a stream/gully which I assumed headed up to the isolated Lac du Fourchas. It did, a lovely ascent and a stunning location with a powerful atmosphere. Ahead, Cime du Vens loomed and to the right, Clai Superior, all entirely monochrome above the grey lake. The latter was definitely feasible but not solo in this weather - it was capped by cloud and there were few signs of an improvement. So, it was definitely going to be the consolation prize, Cime du Fourchas. It was still very satisfying to pick my way up this untravelled peak - I would guess it gets very few ascents, perhaps a handful each year. I initially headed east up steeper slopes to gain a hanging valley with two higher lakes (which form a chain). Then I picked my way rightwards towards the obvious ridge, the Crete de Fourchas, which frames Lacs de Vens. After some steep scree, I entered the vague grassy couloir that seemed to offer easy access to the ridge. It did indeed, and emerged at a small col. From here the onward route was clearly straightforward, a broad, rocky ridge leading to a clear highpoint, which had a cairn and some evidence of occasional ascents! I built a small cairn at the top of the grassy couloir, just in case, and headed up and down, the cloudbase remained well above the peak, but still flirted with the higher mountains across the valley. I returned the same way, without difficulties, and after a snack at the hut descended back to the valley and my car. This time I took the standard path the whole way, which contours well above the Lacs de Vens then takes giant zigzags to join the 'cheminee vens' shortcut I'd taken yesterday. Superb views throughout in improving weather: all the way up to the Barcelonette peaks, and the mountains above St Dalmas like Tete du Vinaigre - still plenty to do. I drove down to St Etienne and back to the excellent bakery for an admirably local lunch of coca nicoise and pissaladiere. By St Saveur, the temperatures had climbed dramatically and I had a coffee in exceptionally hot weather before driving over to Peone.

Tuesday, July 19, 2022

Vens peaks

Peaks: Aiguilles des Tortisses (2672m), Cime des Blanches/Testa del Ferro (2763m)
Area: Lacs de Vens, Maritime Alps
My original plan for today was to take in Pointe Giegn from Boreon, then drive to St Etienne, then walk in to the Refuge de Vens. Foolish. Instead, after a big day yesterday I had a leisurely and pleasant breakfast in St Martin, then drove over to the Tinee valley (only my second ever visit to this side of the range) and up beyond St Etienne to the start of the walk-in to the Refuge de Vens (after buying a gourmet 'auvergne' sandwich for lunch). I was glad my plan had evolved to something more sensible as the walk-in was steep, even more so when I left the zigzags to take in a short-cut. I wasn't sure what this was, but my instinct told me to take it: turned out to be the 'cheminee Vens' (chimney), leading alongside the Torrent de Vens in a steep 279m climb squeezed into less than 800m horizontal, which was as steep as it sounds! A few scrambly steps, and relentless, but emerging at the exquisite lower lake. From here on, the scenery takes on a magical, stunning quality, similar in character to that of Lac d'Allos a little north of here. An exquisite blend of lakes and mountains, dotted with little copses and boulders. The path heads up through the chain of lakes to the top Lac de Vens and a view of the refuge, perfectly situated above a waterfall overlooking the lake. At the sun-drenched hut terrace, I had half my gourmet sandwich and then, expecting an afternoon thunderstorm, decided to bag the most obvious peaks from the vicinity of the hut. The most obvious was the Aiguilles des Tortisses, accessed via the zigzags of the GR52 which led up to a little col (below the major Col de Fer). A short climb gained the weird pinnacled summit (reminiscent of the Col d'Izoard, which isn't too far away) with superb views down to the refuge nestling in its verdant meadows and across to bigger peaks like Clai Superior. This was all too brief, so I returned to the col, then took what looked like an ancient border path (marked with side cairns) to cross over to the Italian side briefly, then a superb romp along a lovely ridge. Above, an ibex poised artfully on a large rock. To the left, interesting peaks like Monte Peiron and some old Italian frontier huts. A sharp forepeak led to the summit of Cime des Blanches and stunning views up to the main Cime de Vens, savage black ridges, rarely climbed I would assume. Dark clouds gathered, so it was back along the crest of the ridge, mild scrambling, and back to the col. I had a rest here, admiring the wonderful alpine flora, particularly impressive here, then jogging back to the hut. I spent a reasonable night here, refuelling on a superb beef daube, dauphinoise and local cheese, but unfortunately a large group of pensioners made the dorm pretty crowded and stifling that night.

Monday, July 18, 2022

Neiglier-Prals loop

Peaks: Mont Neiglier (2786m), Cime de la Vallette des Prals (2496m), Cime du Pertus (2437m), Tete du Cinant (2314m)
Area: Vesubie, Maritime Alps
After a 28 year campaign, not that many major gaps remain for me in the Maritime Alps. Indeed, that rather desultory 'campaign' has been on something of a hiatus since doing Argentera (the range's highpoint) in 2013 with Vic. Apart from that, and the early ascent of Cime du Gelas (the French highpoint) with Tim and Stee in 1994, all my trips to the region have been solo. The mountains are generally non-technical, and therefore suit a solo approach. One of the big remaining gaps was Mont Neiglier, so after dropping the family off at the airport I headed up to the Madone de Fenetre on Sunday evening, arriving at the refuge fairly late. I had a room to myself, where I was woken by moonlight (a very bright full moon shining straight through the skylight). After breakfast, I set off just after 7am up the familiar path to the Baisse des Prals, seeing a chamois almost immediately. This was a perfect way to reacquaint myself with the beauty of these mountains: a stunning path that gradually reveals more of the range as it climbs through the typical Mercantour blend of rocks and trees. To the left, Mont Ponset, which I did in the early 2000s, a superficially impressive peak from this side, but simpler and less complex than Neiglier, its neighbour and today's target. My basic plan was to reach the Baisse des Cinque Lacs via the standard path then take stock and see if the route up Neiglier looked clear. At first, it didn't: the correct cwm was the usual chaotic jumble of 'clapier' boulders. Later, as I moved down towards the lakes I could see a clear small path leading below the very impressive Pointe St Andre ridge up into the cwm. Sadly all I knew was that the normal route takes an 'oblique gully' which heads up to the left, I had no further details and no topo. Still, it was so early that if I abandoned Neiglier plans the day would just have been too short, so I headed upwards. Half way up, the path disappeared in a boulder field but I saw a few small cairns leading up to a likely looking gully. At the base of it, however, it looked unlikely - I couldn't see the top and certainly didn't feel like committing to it. Round a rocky corner and more cairns led to another left-facing gully, so I took a look at that from below too! In some ways it looked feasible, but my mountain brain was again sending out warning signals, so with that I decided to abandon the attempt entirely and continue down to the Lacs des Prals through the boulder field. At the bottom of this, I saw a huge cairn, then another, and then saw a vague route leading up the screes to the very back of the cwm. From here, it did look possible that a left-slanting 'oblique gully' might provide the key to unlock the conundrum. In reality, it is barely a gully at all, more like a slanting series of slabby steps, and it was actually really enjoyable. After a brief slog up the scree, I gained the line and it was obvious - finally - that I was on route. Two little steps provide the only difficulty, and lead to solid slabs at the top which give way to a tiny breche and spectacular, sudden views. The walls plunge away on the far side, and Ponset, Gelas and St Robert all loom across the valley. From the col, about 100m of mild scrambling up the east ridge follows, weaving around to find the easiest line, slightly exposed in a couple of places before easy rocks gain the summit. Superb views in all directions, a stunning place to be, with the Grand Capelet particularly notable (done in the late 2000s). A few clouds blocked the valleys but generally the weather was sunny and fine. The descent was simple, including the slabby steps, although the lower cwm was very arduous, giant 'clapier' boulders typical of the range. I gained the beautiful cinq lacs with some relief and had a snack in an alpine meadow next to the largest lake (accompanied by a screaming marmot). After a short descent, I spied an obvious short cut up a moraine which gained a horizontal path easing progress up to the Baisse de Prals, a notable col and new territory for me. Then came the relaxing part of the day, along the gentler ridges stretching towards St Martin. First up was Cime de la Valette des Prals, a focal point of all of those ridges and a major Mercantour summit despite its low altitude and gentle aspect. A full frontal slog gained the summit, from which it was clear that the weather was on the turn over the higher peaks: threatening black clouds now draped Neiglier and the other high peaks, so my early start had proved extremely prudent (not for the first time). The threat of rain, or worse, did quicken my pace a bit - but the remaining gentle hills remained clear and have a completely different feel in any case. I left the main path to take in Pertus, another large but gentle hill, then contoured to just below Tete de la Lave before sticking to the main ridgeline (not the marked path) to take in Tete de Cinant at 2314m. This had a little coterie of ravens on the summit, and a griffon vulture flew past too. From here I took in a sharp unnamed second summit then dropped down to the Baisse des Ferisson, another major col, and decided to call it a day and descend to the Madone through beautiful woodland. At Lou Cavalon, where I could see the Madone, I stupidly took the left-hand branch of the path, which descended westwards towards the road. This added a fair bit to the day, with a tiring reascent of the road back up to the Madone: 1630m of climbing, close to 19k, well over four hours. I arrived at the Madone to find over a thousand people in attendance, and hundreds of cars, possibly for a funeral or wake. So I drove straight to St Martin to find my gite and have a pissaladiere under the trees: thunderstorm later on that day, followed by a great Nicois meal in one of the 'cave' restaurants.

Friday, July 15, 2022

Bauroux

Peaks: Bauroux (1645m)
Area: Castellane Pre-Alpes, France
This was a near-perfect hillwalk to do with Morgan. I've done most of the mountains around Castellane before - Robion, Teillon, Bernarde and Destourbes all stick in my mind, nice peaks with distinct profiles. Bauroux is a little lower, but it is also a long ridge, lends itself to a loop, and I felt it would be ideal for a father-and-son outing. So it proved, as we set out after the longish drive via Mons and Fayence up butterfly-festooned slopes from the village of Seranon. Above, the long limestone ridge of Bauroux is really impressive. The route takes a nicely logical upward route to gain the wooded western end of the ridge with sudden views north to Teillon and other familiar limestone hills. A lovely breeze kept temperatures manageable, which had been my main concern (it was around 36-37c at the coast). In addition, the route then heads up the wooded northern side of the ridge, up to a wonderful viewpoint which looks out over the crags. The ridge is quite complex, with numerous tops, so the path stays well away from it, weaving through the woods until it heads decisively upwards after the final forepeak. Some rocky sections as the treeline is left just below the summit, which has a big cross, wonderful views, and lots of butterflies enjoying the superb limestone flora. The clarity was excellent and we could pick out Maritime Alps peaks which I'd done before in the distance: Gelas, Argentera, Malinvern and others. Across the valley, the Var's highpoint of Lachens, which I took them up (mostly by car) when they were very small. After a fine lunch, we continued down the steeper eastern side, eventually reaching the village of Caille. From here, we took a slight wrong turning south before heading west back to Seranon. Then it was down to Cannes via Grasse for a culinary reward.

Wednesday, July 13, 2022

Esterel tops

Revisiting old favourite runs this week, all of them pre-breakfast to avoid the ferocious heat that was building (particularly towards the end of the week). On Tuesday, I did my favourite Perthus loop but with a longer twist, first taking in the Piste de Castelli, a 2.5km perfect track that ends on the tarmac near the maison forestiere. From here, the usual Perthus loop is joined (16k in total, so a fair bit longer than the usual route). This morning, after a bad night's sleep, I parked below Pic du Cap Roux and jogged along the road to the Baisse du Sangliers and then the direct path up Pic de l'Ours. I remember doing this in stifling afternoon heat one year, but this wasn't much better, like breathing in hot tar. The path takes a direct line but I then missed the continuation at the road hairpin, taking the tarmac instead: this was really annoying. The true summit is crowned by a giant rocket, and is inaccessible, but I've been here before and enjoyed the descent. From the baisse, I took in Pic d'Aurelle, one of the best views of all, poised directly above the Med and nicely rocky. Later in the week, I ran up Colle d'Allons, the wooded hills opposite the site, and also jogged up Pic du Cap Roux, one of my favourites, from the Plateau d'Antheor. I didn't do Vinaigre from the site, but I did run up the Cabre valley to its terminus, then up to Malavallettes and back via Col Noir, which is almost as long and probably works better as a run.

Saturday, July 09, 2022

Dyserth climbing

Crag: Dyserth Slab
Routes: Jason and the Aga Nuts (f5:led), Leo saw us Rex (f4+:sec)
Tim was back on one of his rare visits from New Zealand, and wanted to do a few routes. The only problem was that I have climbed very little since Covid, and have also failed to replace my quickdraws after they were stolen three years ago in Bergamo! The improvised gear limited us to the two short routes on the right of the crag, but it was very nice to catch up with Tim and Steve.

Chester parkrun

'Race': Chester parkrun
Time/Position: 18.19 (1st from 222)
Parkruns are not races, but 'timed runs', of course. That said, I've never finished first at Chester in seven attempts (although I've been second on numerous occasions) so it was nice to change that today. I thought it would be prudent to sandwich a quick speed session in to the middle of my slow-paced, mountain-dominated Icelandic and French trips. I felt reasonably good, although still over 20 seconds down on my best for the course (which has changed slightly post-covid). Some close competition but I managed to pull away towards the end of the second lap.

Wednesday, July 06, 2022

Esja

Peaks: Thverfellshorn (840m)
Area: Esja, Iceland
Very different in tone from everything else I did in Iceland, Esja feels like what it is: a popular hill on the edge of a large urban area. Reykjavik is clearly visible from most of the route, which is a standard, much-travelled loop up to the viewpoint of Stein and then down the far side of a gentle river valley, Grensoxl. Esja is actually a giant plateau, and the mist peeled spectacularly away from the pinnacles on the rocky coastal facing side as I approached the car park. The trade route to Stein is up a huge path, and felt more like something from the Peak District or perhaps the West Highland Way than my outings in the rest of Iceland. Stein represents a crossing of the paths, and most of Reykjavik is visible far below. An extension exists, however, and it is a good way to get up to sample the Esja plateau proper. The path is steeper up to a rock band, and then a chained (very mild) scramble traverses the rocks rightwards to gain a 'korean-style' ascent, up metal steps and the like, to the forepeak of Thverfellshorn (my laptop can't do the special Icelandic character this peak begins with). This is raised above the rest of the plateau, and was engulfed with mist by the time I got there. Again, it felt like home: I could have been on Carnedd Dafydd. I took the chains back to Stein and then ran down at a decent pace in warm sunshine - 1.26 for the entire outing. This gave me ample time to drive to Gardur at the end of the Reykjanes peninsula for stunning views of breaching humpback whales, and lots of birds.

Tuesday, July 05, 2022

Hafnarfjall

Peaks: Hafnarfjall (844m), Gildalshnjukur (c900m), Katlapufa (c860m)
Area: Borgarnes, Iceland
Hafnarfjall dominates Borgarnes, where I had camped after Baula. It is a classic 'signature peak', a constant presence and a fundamental part of the town's identity. It is obvious, however, that it is a collection of summits, not just one, so I was eager to see how that might unfold as I set off up the obvious marked path from the other side of the bridge across the fjord from the narrow isthmus the town is built on. The route was superb, and follows the very vague 'ridge' that climbs up towards the right-hand summit when looking from the town. There are impressive cliffs on one side, plunging down to the ring-road and the fjord. To the left, a shallow cwm full of scree. The path reaches an obvious col, after which the route turns right (north) to the summit of Hafnarfjall. This was all great, and took 52 minutes, but it was obvious that this was not the true summit of the mountain. The real peak rose from the other side of the col, so I retraced steps and took the much smaller, unmarked path through some rocks to a brilliant continuation ridge which led quite quickly to the highpoint. At the cafe which faces the mountain later that morning, a labelled painting of the peaks revealed that this is actually called Gildalshnjukur - although the map that strava generated was completely inaccurate in terms of contours and heights (as it was in most of Iceland). If Hafnarfjall is 844m, the higher peak must be around 900m, although I can't confirm this either - all rather strange. Regardless, it was a beautiful main summit, with milky cloud and soft sunshine lending definition to fantastic views. These stretched to distant Snaefellsness peninsula, and across to Esja and other snowy peaks, but also down to Borgarnes and its fjord. The continuation to the sharp, shapely peak of Katlapufa was even better, rocky in places with some very mild scrambling. Back the same way, jogging, and into the wonderful Geirabakari cafe that has panoramic views of the peak across the fjord for coffee and cake. Even better, next came the ultimate relaxation in the hot tubs of the town's swimming pool, welcome relief for tired muscles.

Monday, July 04, 2022

Baula

Peaks: Baula (934m)
Area: Borgarfjordur, Iceland
An iconic feature of the west Iceland landscape, Baula is almost the perfect pyramidal peak. It dominates its surroundings and is a compelling objective, often considered the most beautiful mountain in Iceland. Sadly, on closer inspection it proves to be a pile of unstable poised blocks and scree, but I didn't know that as I headed towards it in ever-improving weather. It had been cloudy but dry in Oxnaladur this morning, but the cloud broke as I headed south-west, to the point that by Hvammstangi (where I took a short deliberate detour), the sky was a brilliant blue. I left the ring-road for Baula, but it took some time to work out a likely starting point for the mountain (I had very little information). The broad west 'ridge' looked the most likely route of ascent and I located a track which led to its base. This worked to an extent, but it was arduous and pathless higher up, and I took a little gorge to ease progress. This felt more like Provence for a while - white rock, warm temperatures, dazzling sunshine, azure sky! It was by far the best weather of the trip. Eventually I gained the base of the 'cone' and started upwards, finding the terrain very demanding by any standards. Never remotely exposed, just arduous and tedious as I fought my way upwards through giant boulder fields - again, reminiscent of the 'clapier' fields of the Maritime Alps. Half way up, I found a very vague path which eased progress just a tad, and the angle did ease towards the summit - after which there is a short, but superb, ridge that curves around the very steep northern/eastern side of the mountain to gain the summit. Immense views in all directions, a reflection of its isolaion, and perfect clarity of light. As is often the case on these sorts of mountains, it is easier to spot better lines in descent, and Baula was no exception. I took a more southerly line, evidence of previous traffic, and - although still arduous and loose - it was easier and I gained the base of the cone fairly quickly. The grass lower down was a relief, and it was still sunny as I got back to the car on the Vestfjardavegur.

Hraunvatn/Stapar

Sunday was a washout. It really was a good job I had checked the forecast as upwards movement was practically impossible. I took in the crater of Hverfjall in full wet weather gear (howling gale, horizontal rain) before retreating to the volcanic pillars of Dimmoburgir, a sensible sheltered choice which gave some relief with a 4k walking loop through the formations (and it had a warm cafe above the car park). I managed to locate the Myvatn speciality of Barrow's goldeneye at the nearby Hofoi (where volcanic pillars stand in the water of the lake) but failed to find the other speciality, harlequin duck, coming close to 'birding hypothermia' as I doggedly scanned the Laxa river outflow in truly abysmal conditions. The weather was so bad in Akureyri that I barely left the van, and woke this morning to snow plastering all the peaks above the town that I had intended to ascend this morning. With trail running shoes, this seemed unwise so I reluctantly abandoned my plans and continued along the ring road, hoping for an opportunity to get amongst the scenery and pinpointing Oxnadalur as a likely option. I quickly reached it and it exceeded my expectations, a wonderful valley and the epitome of wild northern Icelandic scenery. I stopped for breakfast below the farms that provide scale for the incredible pinnacle of Hraundrangi which rises above. Higher up, I parked, and took the track to the old farm of Hraun (lots of literary links with the valley, which is widely celebrated). A small path led upwards, so I followed it, wondering if I might make a speculative attempt on the beautiful mountain rising from an obvious long ridge, which turned out to be Heidarfjall. The path led upwards to an awkward rocky section and shallow gorge, above which was a small lake with a great northern diver in full breeding plumage. Above this, and the hypnotically beautiful upper valley is breached, an utterly magical secluded location with an indescribable ambience, completely hidden from below. The stunning lake of Hraunvatn dominates the valley floor with steep mountain sides all around. A tiny path led onwards towards the long ridge up the dominant peak, so I followed it. Grassy at first, it soon led to a rockier section, narrow but not very exposed. This was wonderful, stunning views down to the lake and across to Fagranesfjell and other peaks to the east. Above the ridge steepened to what would be called a gendarme if it was in the Alps. Here, mountain judgment kicked in and I retreated. I made a few abortive attempts to circumvent it, getting higher up the valley, before retreating - not sad at all, just glad to be up here and exercising a bit of experience! I descended down to the viewpoint of Stapar, a little hill with a cairn and just sat enjoying this magical place, perhaps the most memorable of all the locations I visited in Iceland (and that is up against very, very stiff competition). The opposing ridge to the pinnacle of Hraundrangi dominated, but it was the general atmosphere that was genuinely hard to leave. I did, eventually, disturbing an angry ptarmigan en route.

Saturday, July 02, 2022

Hlidarfjall

Peaks: Hlidarfjall (771m)
Area: Myvatn, Iceland
After a very long day, my arrival at the wonderful campsite of Bjarg, right on the shores of Myvatn, was a delight - slavonian grebe and red-necked phalarope dabbling around right next to the van. After Graenafell, I had eaten skyr on the edge of the highlands in a wonderful lonely location before descending into the magnificant volcanic landscape around Hverir. Here I took the loop of the boiling, sulphurous craters and went up to the Namarfjall (500m) highpoint with views over the lake and across to the impressive cone-like peak of Hildarfjell. It seemed essential to go up it tomorrow morning (when I planned a more relaxing day) but I thought I should just check the weather first, despite the fact that it had improved to a lovely evening of milky sunshine here in the far north. A sudden change of plan, and action stations, when I realised the forecast for tomorrow was grim. So it was on with the running gear and an attempt to find the route up Hlidarfjall from the lake. This took some time, but it didn't really matter given the constant daylight. That said, I still took a running approach as I wanted my evening meal and a shower! Hlidarfjall is a perfect cone from lower down, although becomes bulkier along the approach, which was lengthy and characterised my very noisy breeding whimbrels (and a few godwit) who seemed distressed by my presence. I trod lightly, and eventually gained the peak itself, taking a direct route up to gain steep and tiring scree which led eventually to a vague col and then easier going up a broad, rocky ridge to the summit. Superb views over Krafla's spectacular volcanic landscape on one side, and all of Myvatn on the other. Sadly, light mist obscured some of it and the weather already seemed to be turning. A cautious descent of the scree cone, then I opened up a bit for the track leading back to Reykjahlio and Bjarn by 8.30pm, for a welcome sulphurous shower and my Icelandic staple meal of 'pocket rocket fishy noodles' before turning in.

Graenafell

Peaks: Graenafell (630m)
Area: Reydarfjordur, Iceland
Stunning though the ringroad scenery was, and supremely enjoyable, I was always fighting the urge to get into it, and off the beaten track. Given time constraints, options were limited, but after leaving Hofn this morning I did have a few vague plans. Initially (after a peaceful breakfast near Sefdalur, then seabird watching at Almannaskard) I parked near the tunnel beyond Budir and took the marked path into the empty and wonderful looking valley to the west. Sadly, a bridge was down and it was impossible to continue up the valley (confirmed by a chat with the farmer's wife!). No matter, I continued the drive and parked instead west of Reydarfjordur at the top of an obvious pass. Again, superb mountain scenery on all sides. The weather was dry but cloudy and somewhat threatening. Graenafell was an ideal way to get amongst it all, a small but pronounced hill surrounded by bigger mountains. Steep slopes led from the windy pass to boggy moorland and a desolate lake (Graenavatn) with golden plover. Then, rockier and drier terrain led to the summit and great views over Reydarfjordur (and a bench for sitting on!). Easy jogged descent, less than an hour for the outing. Then, the journey continued to Eggilstadir then up for a taste of the highlands before descending to Myvatn.

Friday, July 01, 2022

Skaftafell loop

Peaks: Fremrihnaukur (610m), Kristinartindar (1126m)
Area: Skaftafell, Iceland
A fairly unstable day weatherwise after landing in Keflavik fairly early yesterday, with some heavy showers and cold wind. This limited me to short trips above the famous waterfall of Skogafoss, and a windy hike up Rejnasfell above Vik, where I stayed the night in the campground. Skaftafell was always scheduled to be the big day, however, and fortunately this, the second day, dawned clear and dry. With constant daylight I was in no great rush, and first left the ring road to take in the gorge of Fjadrarglijufur. This was magical in the early morning, and I had it completely to myself. Skaftafell was unsurprisingly a lot busier, rammed with global tourists, but I suspected they would disappear within minutes of leaving the car park. This was indeed the case, in fact once I was above the famous basalt column waterfall of Svartifoss (far from Iceland's most impressive, but one of the most photographed!) I was entirely alone. The route climbs fairly gently through low vegetation to gain an open moor at Sjonarskur, as the views open out across to Kalfafell, the angular mountain of Lomagnapur, and the awe-inspiringly bleak 'sandur' - vast glacial deposits that create a 50km section of utterly barren wilderness where the icecaps meet the Atlantic. It was, predictably enough, pretty special, and the day continued in that vein. An easy climb gained the rounded forepeak of Femrihnaukur with superb views up towards the high glacier of Morsardalur. I began to catch up with some early starters (not many) across a couple of neve fields to gain the upper cwm, surrounded by peaks. Steep scree led to a pronounced col and a stunning view across Skaftafellsjokull, the main glacier. Mist was flirting with the higher peaks, totally engulfing the Icelandic highpoint of Hvannadalshnukur. It was pretty cold, and the meat of the day came next, with a rather loose scramble up the south ridge. This was almost alpine in tone, not especially exposed but rather loose, particularly in an open gully that I took in error. At the top, it eased to a pleasant ridge and a snowfield. Mist was flirting with the summit, a very atmospheric place with plunging views to glaciated valleys in all directions. I descended cautiously, avoiding the gully, and had a snack at the col as the mist lowered a tad. An easy descent down the screes in the cwm led back to the main circular path. This leads east to the stunning viewpoint of Glama, poised above magnificent Skaftafelljsjokul, itself part of the enormous Vatnajokull icecap, Europe's biggest. The scale and magnificence of the scenery was breath-taking (not a cliche I use lightly). Far more people now, as I continued along the marked path to Sjonarnipa, looking out over the icebergs calving off the end of the glacier and the vast sandur plains beyond. A final descent through birch woodland added a varied final note to an exceptional 4+ hour outing. After some much-needed food at the visitor centre, watching a heavy shower approach over the mountains, the day continued in extraordinarily memorable fashion. I explored Jokulsarlon thoroughly (Fjallsarlon too, in some ways even better) watching the icebergs that have been calved off the Vatnajokull icecap drift slowly into the Atlantic from the glacial lagoon - stunning. By the time I arrived in Hofn, bright sunshine returned and I had a snack overlooking Sudhurdfjordur before getting an elevated spot at the campground. A truly memorable day.

Wednesday, June 29, 2022

Wobbler

Race: Robbie Webster's Wobbler
Time/Position: 43.58 (13th from 100 [1st V50])
A tropical deluge made this more memorable than expected, strangely echoing the last time I did the race a few years ago, when heavy summer rain rendered the start a bit of a quagmire. This time I was handicapped by snapped elastic on an old pair of shorts, meaning I had to hold them up like a soiled nappy. This was really annoying, to the point that I couldn't really open up (although it is an unusably stupid excuse). I felt fairly good, and wasn't too far down on previous times for the race, despite the wet nappy. Some good competition, although I was beaten by faster finishers before the finale on Beacon Hill above Frodsham.

Friday, June 24, 2022

Deganwy Dash

Race: Deganwy Dash (5m)
Time/Position: 28.58 (5th from 255 [1st V50])
A hint of rain and a southerly breeze this evening, my first time at this nice race. It is similar to the Conwy parkrun, although it heads south from Deganwy prom along the estuary using the gravel bike paths, uneven in places. As such, despite its flatness it is never going to be the fastest course, and the twisty bridge adds to this. I really enjoyed the race, felt fairly good, and found myself pushing the pace with a couple of others until pulling away a little on the return leg (it heads to the RSPB reserve, then returns). A short bike ride back to Hod and the Albion.

Friday, June 17, 2022

Tattenhall Tough Team

Race: Tattenhall Tough Team
Time/Position: 1.03.56 (4th from 222 [2nd Team/1st Vet Team])
This has long been one of my favourite events, sadly missed over the last couple of years. The team element makes it great, and a nice complement to the castles relays last Sunday. I've found myself in various combos over the years, and this year our trio was me, Jez and Richard Shearer - a combined aged of 155, so very comfortably competing in the vet category! On the long road haul out to Burwardsley, we kept a good steady pace going, letting our younger Buckley rivals streak ahead, along with some other quick teams. It seemed to me that we were comfortably first vets, so we just knocked the pace back a bit for the draining tarmac up to the Pheasant. The off-road section follows, with the sharp climb up to the Sandstone Trail before great running down the sandy paths to the start of the Railway, very possibly the most notorious local climb of all, much harder than the dreaded gully on my Hotfoot race. Looking up, I could only see one team ahead: that seemed odd, but at this stage I wasn't sure where we were in the field. The 'railway' is a misnomer: it is actually an incline that gets ludicrously steep at the top, where the grim reaper helps runners up the final step. Rich slipped back a bit, but recovered remarkably for the next section which leads to the fields back down to Burwardsley. These were far more overgrown than normal, but we stayed in our trio, which is what the race is all about (and doesn't often happen). Once we hit the road, we pulled away and it became apparent we were in second place overall. Our Buckley rivals had taken a wrong turn, as had Vale Royal. Rich and I were matched step for step, and the road run-in was brilliant as a result. Jez slipped behind a little, but we finished in a comfortable second place overall (first veterans), a couple of minutes down on my best time for the course (with Dave and Chris in 2017, although I once broke the hour on the old course). A great evening, and very warm rather than dangerously hot - which was what the forecast was warning.