Craig y Forwyn

Crag: Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas
Routes: Route 66 (VS 4c:sec), Sunset Strip (HVS 5a:sec)
We are gradually ticking a few more routes here, despite the fact that the central and best section remains banned after all these years despite the change of ownership. Today was sadly rain affected and was particularly unlucky - a deluge in the middle of a dry day. My finger injury persists, so I was happy to remain a passenger as we did the trade VS Route 66 for the third time, with its steep wall, delicate traverse and easy corner. Vic then led Sunset Strip, which is in the mould of the neighbouring Duchess which we did early this summer, but is more sustained. It starts up Route 66 before a delicate traverse left gains a steep wall before an excellent positive crack. This leads to a steep slab, with a fairly hard crux which requires a precise combination of moves using two perfect pockets. It began to rain just before I reached the crux and got gradually heavier as I grabbed the edge of the flake - not much for the feet and quite powerful for a short time. The rain began in earnest for the easier finish: a great, varied pitch. Sheltered for a while under the roof below the groove, then bailed out to do the Nick Beer 10k route round the Orme, inevitably drenched in glorious sunshine.

Tegg's Nose fell race

Race: Tegg's Nose (8m/1600ft/BM)
Time/Position: 1.06.18 (21st from 129)
An enjoyable fell race attached to a sheepdog trial on the edge of the Peak, at the point that the Macclesfield suburbs meet the open countryside. It is quite runnable, and a pleasantly accessible 'away day' for Simon and myself, but with little speedwork recently I suffered on the return leg. The race heads out along roads and fields towards Tegg's Nose itself, a little country park with the feel of a small gritstone edge further east, and good views over Macclesfield and the Cheshire plain. A loop round the nose, then a surprisingly steep descent down the valley and a hot climb back through woodland to regain the hill. Eventually, the route joins the outward leg which is where I began to struggle with some climbing remaining. A good few runners went past as I plodded along the fields leading back to the road.

Snowdon run

Peaks: Yr Wyddfa, Moel Cynghorion
Area: Snowdon, Eryri
It's been a while since I ran the tourist path from Llanberis, and seven years since I last did the Snowdon race (I 'retired' after running 1.22 in 2011, which I felt was the quickest I would ever do it). After dropping Kate off at work I parked at the far end of Padarn and ran through the town. Even though the weather was claggy and the hour early, the usual crowds dotted the path in a virtually continuous line. A squally shower hit below Hebron, and then cold mist and strong wind marked the rest of the climb. I ran down the same way until finding the crowds unbearable above Llyn du'r Arddu. To avoid them, I ran across the lip of the cwm, great views of both buttresses (I was last here for Longland's Route four years ago), then across steep grass to the Ranger path to join the Pedol Peris route up Moel Cynghorion where the weather finally began to clear. Brilliant running down the ridge to the col at the top of Maesgwm, leaving the perfect long run back to Llanberis along the Maesgwm path.

Sawyer Mountain run

Peak: Sawyer Mountain (2618ft)
Area: Adirondacks, New York
After the morning run up Prospect Mountain, we drove to Indian Lake and had a wonderful few hours exploring the glorious environs in perfect weather. The upper sections of the Hudson river, near its source, give way to picturesque lakes, one of which (Bullhead Pond) we walked to via pristine woodland. After a picnic outside Indian Lake, we drove to Sawyer Mountain, which I ran up - more pristine woodland and a brilliant leg stretcher and Adirondack sampler. A short way beyond the summit, I got the view I wanted, north over the unspoiled wilderness to Snowy Mountain and Wakely Mountain: quintessentially North American. Then it was back to Warrensburg for Elk Sliders, chicken wings and Space IPA.

Prospect Mountain run

Peaks: Prospect Mountain (2030ft)
Area: Adirondacks, New York
This little hill essentially marks the start of the Adirondacks, a vast mountain wilderness in upstate New York. It is the first landmark after the endless Hudson plains stretching inland from New York through Albany, and as such has considerable significance, with a road to the top and the remnants of an old cableway. I didn't know any of this, however, and just used it as a brief early morning training run as the closest trail to our motel in Warrensburg (although Kate and I had walked up the even closer Hackensack Mountain the evening before). A strange start from the edge of the resort town of St George, using a covered pedestrian bridge over the freeway, then an intense uphill blast on a big trail through woodland. Very direct initially, until a few rocky twists and turns gain the top of the summit road (29 minutes of running). At the top, lots of picnic tables, car parks, chipmunks, and huge views over Lake George, New York state and the Adirondacks. Very obvious that this marks a transition zone between populated NY state and the near-wilderness of the Adirondacks. I pelted down, back to the car, and back to the hotel for breakfast at 8am and a trip north into the Adirondacks proper.

Mount Randolph run

Peaks: Mount Randolph (3081ft)
Area: White Mountains, New Hampshire
Storms across New Hampshire yesterday, so my planned assault on the northern Whites had to be curtailed at the tree line after I stretched my legs up the famous Air Line trail, which starts from the road near our motel. We did some excellent family walks in between torrential showers: the Lost Pond from Pinkham notch, and two short trails from Crawford Notch. Today, I left the motel at 6am and ran through atmospheric woodland along the trail to Lookout Ledge. This took far longer than I'd expected, but when I arrived the conditions were fabulous. The night's mist and cloud was burning away and the sun lit the granite ledge as I arrived. Thick cloud remained over the northern Presidentials, but huge views over unbroken forested hills to the east - the Carter Range and Mount Moriah - emerged from light mist. Wonderful ambience with the low morning sun lighting the trees. I then switched to the Crescent Ridge trail up to Mount Randolph, named after our 'home' village. This remains wooded, all rather alien to one accustomed to continual mountain views, but very atmospheric and very North American. As I got higher, I re-entered the mist and could see nothing from the wooded summit. The path wasn't particularly clear, especially when compared to the Air Line, although the markings were adequate and it was all very runnable. I rejoined the Lowe trail and thoroughly enjoyed pelting down it to the Durand road, where I extended the run by another three miles (boreal chickadee, american redstart and other interesting birds). Then it was back to check out of the motel, enjoy a stupendous breakfast at the Water Wheel in Jefferson, and drive to Vermont.

Mount Jefferson traverse

Peaks: Mount Jefferson (5712ft), Mount Clay (5532ft), Mount Washington (6288ft)

Area: White Mountains, New Hampshire

Rather shameful, the first time in three decades of mountain activity that I've used mechanical assistance! But, I did at least run up Washington from the north, and the day's particular circumstances at the start of our US road trip provide three excuses. Storms were forecast tomorrow, there was no way the children would walk up Washington, and we'd driven over from the Maine coast in the morning. The drive up Washington's Auto Road is enjoyable, not particularly stressful by Alpine standards, although in a $50,000 Chrysler the mind was still focused! The tree line is left, reminding me very much of Mont Ventoux, as the open hill is gained: dwarf shrubs and granite boulders. On top, wonderful blue skies although distant views were a tad hazy. Close at hand, however, the Presidential range was very clear, particularly to the north where the more shapely peaks are. We had a picnic away from the hordes on the top, but I had a strong desire to get further away from the crowds, so ran over to Mount Jefferson. This was wonderful, a brief taster of the range. The terrain is rather awkward underfoot, so progress is slower than might be expected: rocky almost throughout. The path contours the sub-peak of Mount Clay to gain low trees and a rocky section at the col below Jefferson. I wasn't even sure what mountain I was on, having made a snap decision based on the appearance of the ridge. I felt quite good though, having just run a gentle acclimatising 5k round Lake Quannapowitt yesterday, and got to the bouldery top of Jefferson in around 50 minutes from Washington. Good views north to Adams and Madison, and down to Randolph - where our motel (called 'Jefferson View') was located. I varied the return, over the deserted top of Mount Clay, just a subpeak of Washington but with good views down into the pronounced Jefferson ravine. Took an unwise direct route back up Washington, which allowed me to partially regain the moral high ground.

Druid fell race

Race: The Druid (8k/1200ft)
Time/Position: 39.33 (6th from 75)
After yesterday's long run, I started at the back of the field tonight, on a very familiar race that I have done many times. As such, I was surprised to feel reasonably good, particularly by the standards of this off-form year, and started to move through the field as the race climbs over Foel Fenlli. There wasn't much to lose with our holiday imminent, so I gave it a real blast on the descent. The race now finishes back at the pub so I didn't have the demoralising experience of comparing my time with previous years!

Carneddau run

Peaks: Drum, Foel Fras, Carnedd Gwenllian, Foel Grach, Carnedd Llewellyn, Yr Elen, Moel Faban
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
The cloudless, perfect conditions of recent weeks gave way to dull, misty and more familiar weather as I set off from Aber this morning. Up the Foel Fras race route initially, always a long climb, but every inch of it is familiar and I was glad of the cooler weather. The cloud base flirted with the top of Foel Fras but never quite covered the ridge as I continued along it, feeling better as the morning went on and starting to pick up the pace. I reached the top of Carnedd Llewellyn in 90 minutes, then pelted along to Yr Elen, always one of my favourite Eryri summits. From here, I continued down then cut across to finally get to a water source at the bottom of Cwm Llafur. From here, the terrain was less familiar. I crossed to the track on Gyrn Wigiau, then ploughed across the open moor just above Bethesda to the small col below Moel Faban. From here, perfect runnable tracks contour the Moel Wnion to eventually rejoin the end of the old Foel Fras race route back to Aber. Less than four hours, an excellent circuit.

Raven Crag climbing

Crag: Raven Crag, Langdale
Routes: Revelation (HS 4b:led p.1), Bilberry Buttress (VS 4c,4b:led p.2), Holly Tree Direct (HVS 4b,4c,4b:led p.1)
Just another perfect summer day: sunlit dew as we left the tents in Grasmere, the yellow grass shimmering in the morning sunshine. After a big breakfast, we drove back over to Langdale, and walked in to Raven Crag from the Old Dungeon Ghyll. If I've waited a long time to revisit Gimmer, it's been even longer since I last climbed at Raven Crag: in fact, it was perhaps the second or third venue I ever visited, doing Middlefell Buttress and Evening Wall with the university climbing club in 1990! The crag has more to offer, and we started on the far right hand side with the excellent Revelation, which is well named as it offers a continuous series of big holds. I led the first pitch up a scoop and delicate slab, before Vic led the second which starts up a strenuous slanting crack and continues up easy ground to another short, steep wall taken on big holds: great start. Bilberry Buttress is the classic VS of the crag, at the top end of the grade. The initial crack is off-width, polished and awkward. The second is steeper, demanding some crack technique until some superb finishing holds can be used: surprisingly strenuous for the grade. Vic linked the two together, and I led the top pitch which moves right to another crack, slightly dirty, up to a detached flake and final slab. Finally, we went for Holly Tree Direct, one of the crag's most obvious lines. I combined the first two pitches - initially up a slab which was supposedly 4c but felt easier, and then up a pillar leading to an obvious pinnacle (this bit might have been Original Route). Above, the obvious groove is undercut, so requires a subtle solution which took some figuring out. I had to retrieve Vic's gear from the top of the steep ramp, then downclimb to traverse a steep slab on small holds: with my finger injury, this was difficult. A long step gains the groove, which is easier but sustained VS. The finish traverses left to easier slabs. Jogged back to the car and got home in two hours, the roads deserted as England played in the World Cup quarter final.

Gimmer climbing

Crag: Gimmer Crag, Lake District
Routes: Bracket and Slab Direct Start (VS 4b:led), Bracket and Slab (S:led p,3), South East Gully (M:des), Asterisk (VS 4b:sec), D Route (S+:led)
Gimmer is not just one of the best crags in the Lakes, it is one of the best in the UK, with superbly varied climbs of all grades. Puzzling, therefore, that I've only visited once before, with Tim in the 1990s to do the famous crack and a few other routes. This morning, an early start from home saw Vic and I walking in from Stickle Barn before 10am on yet another glorious morning, the grass scorched yellow throughout Langdale as the heatwave continues. It's a long walk-in from here, but gentler than the other approaches, and it exposes the main south-east face brilliantly, with the upper reaches of Langdale below. The walk from this side leads neatly into the routes around Gimmer Chimney, so we started with Bracket and Slab, which features in Classic Rock but was, I think, new to me. I took the direct start, which takes a thin crack up a clean slab and gives a lovely pitch at a mild VS, with some delicate moves and precise footwork: a great start, merging with the second pitch. Vic then led the 'bracket', which traverses an awkward flake to gain a left-slanting groove. I suspect I went slightly off route on the next pitch, traversing right to a long, tricky step to gain a crack leading up to twin chimneys. Vic then led a long final pitch up the easy right hand chimney to gain delightful sun-drenched slabs which led to the top, before an absorbing descent down the South East Gully. This requires some thought and care, a series of rock steps, descending facing in, to an exposed traverse and more tricky downclimbing. After lunch, we moved round to the steeper west face, where Vic led Asterisk. This is a superb pitch: move after move of great climbing on jugs, absorbing and enjoyable throughout. After a recess, the route briefly joins the arete before ploughing directly up on great holds in a great position to a brief crux right at the top. From Ash Tree ledge, the next routes take a bit of working out, but I eventually opted for D Route, which was - to say the least - a good choice. It is delicate initially, with a tricky step left on undercut holds, but this gains the wonderful 'forked lightning crack', which - although rather hidden from below - is one of the lines of the crag. It is simple but brilliant throughout, with abundant protection, up flakes and little pinnacles, all the way to a belay just below the top of the crag: a fantastic three-star combination of routes. We abbed off a big chain to Ash Tree ledge, then traversed across to the top of Asterisk, where an awkward abseil led back to the starting point in the shallow gully. We descended straight down to Mickleden, steep but direct, and walked back along the scorched valley to Stickle Barn. That night, we camped outside the YHA in Grasmere.

Cagliari run

A post-GCSE mini-adventure with Morgan, and - not wishing to push him too far - I left for a pre-breakfast run on the morning of our second day. I'd hoped to run along the obvious headland to the south of our flat in eastern Cagliari, but that proved problematic, so instead I ran along the harbour edge then along excellent cycle paths past the huge football ground, a venue famously used in Italia 90 (now defunct, I think). A further path by a major road leads to the Montargius lagoons, where I could see distant flamingos and nearby gull-billed terns. Excellent running along canal paths. Back to wake my companion for breakfast at the cafe near our apartment, before enjoying a splendid day trip to Iglesias in the Sardinian interior.

Aran wildcamp

This is becoming something of a tradition: a midsummer solo wildcamp in Eryri. After an unusually hot Collie run, I headed over to Llanuwchllyn in glorious evening sunshine, beginning the run at 8pm as the sun began to drop. I took the race route, with the intention of finding a camp with views to west and east, my usual stipulations. The obvious problem was a lack of water: it is unusually dry across the hills at present, and I eventually settled on a spot on the western side of Moel Ffenigl (very close to the highpoint of this March's shortened Ras yr Aran - in fact, that was the last time I was up here, less than four months ago, in a windchill of -20c and heavy snow showers). A surprisingly stiff easterly blew up, so I pitched in the lee of a rocky outcrop (allowing for a bit of bouldering in the evening sunshine). The midges weren't too bad, and I found a trickle of water in a nearby stream for my morning brew. The sun dropped below Snowdon and Arenig: a magnificent evening. Sadly, however, the easterly disturbed my sleep a bit - although that did mean I caught the sunrise as I enjoyed a dawn run along the ridge. The sunrise was as spectacular as the sunset, and a full moon shone above Cader to the west.

Ogwen climbing

Crag: Bochlwyd Buttress/West Face Tryfan
Routes: Two Pitch Route (S 4a:led), Cannon Ridge (S 4a:led p.2,3,4), Jamie's Route p.1 (S 4a:led), Buzzard's Buttress p.1+2 (M:des)
A pleasant day of gentle mountaineering around the lower reaches of Ogwen, which was just as well with an ongoing pulley rupture sustained at Maeshafn. The weather has been absolutely stunning: a sustained period of high pressure with magnificent clarity of light and no end to the dry spell in sight. Steve is still new to Snowdonian climbing, so I took him up to Bochlwyd for a warm-up, leading the delightful two-pitch route. I'm almost certain I've done this before: it is a lovely relaxing climb, a nice long pitch up a series of small grooves with excellent protection throughout. We then ploughed through the awful heather towards the west face of Tryfan. I am gradually ticking off the routes here, and this time we added Cannon Ridge - a pleasant outing with a mountaineering flavour. Steve led a long scrambly pitch up a pinnacled ridge, then I led up a chimney to gain a ramp line and small belay. Then a devious pitch with a mantel and little traverse to a flake before one tricky move up a slabby crack gains easier climbing. To finish, Steve led his first proper trad pitch up the tight chimney. Good climb, albeit contrived and escapeable - although most Tryfan climbing is. An awkward descent down an untracked gully, a quick lunch, and it was time for the first pitch of Jamie's Route, which takes a very attractive and eye-catching slab, probably the best feature on this side of Tryfan. The route takes a rather awkward off-width crack to a chockstone, then climbs a pleasant groove and slabs with sharp little flake holds. I continued up the route for a bit, much easier above, before we descended further right - down the fine scramble of Buzzard's Buttress.

Moel y Gamelin fell race

Race: Moel y Gamelin (10m/3000ft)
Time/Position: 1.27.57 (8th from 83)
Not sure how many times I have done this race (7 or 8) but I am almost certain this was my slowest ever. I didn't feel too bad after Friday's race, although that might have been something to do with the gentle pace. It was hot, but not as bad as I'd expected and not as bad as I have known it (the far side of the race on the northern slopes of Gamelin can be like a furnace, but today we had a slight breeze). Beautiful clarity of light as the wonderful spell of weather continues, and actually an enjoyable outing (again, probably due to the slow pace). Very steady over the ridge to Gamelin and Morfydd, then I began to pick up a few places, feeling quite good. Myself, Simon and Richard were together for a while at the far end of the course in the wild country above Carrog. I managed to keep things ticking over for the return but was a tad dehydrated for the always-desperate climb back over Gamelin.

Tattenhall Tough Team

Race: Tattenhall Tough Team
Time/Position: 64.16 (14th from 221)
Pressure was on for the TTT this year: one of my favourite local races, but as a team event it is always likely to expose a lack of speed. In the event, I was nearly five minutes down on my best time for the course but middle finisher for our team ('the good, the bad and the ugly'), sandwiched between in-form clubmates Chris and Eddie. I felt a little better than expected for the long road section up to the Peckforton Hills, in glorious evening sunshine. Very dry underfoot for the off-road section, with the usual horrendous climb up the infamous 'railway'. Chris and I reconvened with Eddie at the top of the Railway, as is conventional, but I found the rest of the race hard going and dropped a few places. Perhaps the sixth time I've done this great team event.

Maeshafn climbing

Crag: Maeshafn
Routes: Rambler (S 4a:led), Flying Block (E1 5b:sec), Royal Plume (E2 6a:sec), Knotty Problem/Laxix (E1 5b:sec), The Corner (E1 5b:sec)
Even though I've been coming here for 30 years there are still some routes I haven't done. I've no great desire to lead them, but a quick training session with rope above worked well today in unexpectedly cold and drizzly (very light) conditions. I led up Rambler, which has never been any more than VD and still isn't, then we did Flying Block with its strenuous crux over the block using a side pull. Easier climbing above. Royal Plume is desperate in my view, really hard almost throughout with a particularly tricky crux which is simultaneously technical and strenuous, and it remains technical above it: surely undergraded. We then did the mantelshelf start of Knotty Problem which leads logically into the right-curving crack taken by the E4 of Laxix. This is an obvious combination, no more than E1 5b. Finally, the awkward E1 of the Corner, which has tricky and constricted moves up the corner to a hard traverse right on small holds to an easier finish.

Dee Valley Way/North Berwyn Way

Peaks: Moel Fferna, Vivod Mountain
Area: Berwyn
After running the 15 mile North Berwyn Way point-to-point a fortnight ago, it seemed fairly obvious to extend it into a longer 30 mile loop from Llangollen by combining it with the Dee Valley Way. A useful way of keeping the distance work ticking over with a few more long races coming up in this, my ultra year. Jez and I set off in the early morning from Llangollen with light rain falling. Over the Dee then along the canal towards Rhewl. The Dee Valley Way is a tad contrived, as various sections take mini off-road loops north of the minor road through Carrog: more pastoral and gentler than the North Berwyn route. These loops are not always well-marked and we failed to find the route a few times until branching off at the Sun Inn, Rhewl, to take an excellent track over the hills to the west. A few more detours around Glyndyfyrdwy and along to Carrog, before the more logical quiet road down to Corwen, which nestles in its valley attractively from this side of the river. Then, the half way point, crossing the Dee into Corwen, where I purchased chocolate milk and a snickers for a much-needed boost. The return leg was a carbon copy of our traverse two weeks ago - in almost identical weather. The very long climb is, however, a lot harder with 17 miles in the legs! Some mist on top of Moel Fferna, then steady rain and thick clag over Vivod. Jez went ahead for this long section, but I still got back to Llangollen (in heavy rain) in a pleasingly efficient 4.35.

Rainbow Walls

Crag: Rainbow Walls, Llanberis
Routes: Taken Over by Department C (f6a:led)
After such a productive and enjoyable Skye trip, squeezing a lot into a short time, I was due a failure and this was it. The plan was ambitious: an afternoon trip to the slate with a stop off in Conwy for an attempt at the f6b on Noticeboard crag I have been looking at for a while. Conditions were perfect, I was fresh, and the route was well-bolted and excellent - superb rhyolite - but I could not quite commit to the move above the fourth bolt to the obvious ledge. I pledged to Steve that I would only have one ground-up onsight attempt, which was not a good idea! I kept to the pledge, and lowered off, tail between my legs. Slate was even less successful. We tried to walk to Rainbow Walls from Dinorwic in perfect weather, fluffy clouds and a cooling breeze. I'd been down before to the Bela Lugosi area, but couldn't remember the way. We ended up descending all the way to Padarn, then re-ascending via the correct, but complex, route from the bottom. This all took ages, of course. Eventually, I led the unusual f6a on the Cig-Arete walls. It goes up a dolerite seam with unusual and thought-provoking moves to a crux pull on to the upper slab via small holds. The upper slab is a real surprise - gently inclined but quite technical and delicate, and moss-covered (albeit dry after recent weather). I then failed again, on Gwion's Groove, for exactly the same reason at exactly the same grade. I made the high first clip, then did the crux up the strenuous lay-backed mini-arete, but did not want to commit to the final run-out. An utterly inefficient, time-wasting afternoon out!

Welsh Castles Relay

Race: Welsh Castles Relay, Stage 11 Newtown-Llanbadarn Fynydd (12m/500ft)
Time/Position: 1.19.45 (16th from 66)
I've wanted to sample this event for years, and the recent dramatic expansion of the club means that it is now likely to be a regular occurrence. For the full flavour of the event, you probably need to devote the entire weekend to it - that wasn't an option for me, so I drove down to Newtown on Saturday evening, watched Stage 10 finish, and set off on Stage 11 in the early morning mist at 7am after sleeping in the car. This is a great mountain stage, probably the most suitable for me given current lack of speed. It climbs out of town on the A483 towards Dolfor - and carries on climbing for most of its length. We emerged from the mist quite quickly, and the rest of the race was run in perfect sunny conditions, not too hot in the early morning. I kept a steady pace throughout, settling in with another runner, and we helped each other a lot, just ticking over not wanting to risk a blow up. Towards the end of the climb, I started to push on a bit, feeling better than I have recently, then pushed again as the race levelled off with a few miles to go before the finish at Llanbadarn Fynydd. Possibly a tad too conservative, but I've been so far off the pace recently that I probably got the pacing about right and at least it meant I finished the stage strongly. The atmosphere is great throughout, with an entourage of support vehicles passing as the race continues southwards. It would be nice to do it properly and sample the atmosphere one year: by contrast, I finished my stage before 8.20am and was home for breakfast by 10am.

Maeshafn climbing

Crag: Maeshafn
Routes: Mathematical Workout (E3 6a:sec), Calculus (E4 5c:sec)
A brief top-roping session on routes that have always been too hard for me, and in a sense still are. The E3 is simultaneously very technical and strenuous, up a thin crack with little for the feet: coming in from the left is a tad easier. Then, small honeycombed holds are reached along with a tenuous undercut. The crux comes next, which was dogged by me, up to a long reach for a flat hold. This is the key to the route, and after standing on it the upper slab is gained - this is still technical but easier than below. I found Calculus slightly easier with rope above, as its grade suggests. There are no moves quite as hard as the E3 crux although it is strenuous and sustained. A layback on the smooth arete, quite awkward and strenuous, leads to a good foothold and a hard pull. Again, the smooth wall above is easier than the climbing below. Just a quick session before the Collie run up Moel Famau.

Tinto run

Peak: Tinto (711)
Area: Southern Uplands
Tinto is a familiar feature of the landscape south of the central belt, and gives a perfect short 'leg stretcher' on the journey south. A glorious drive from Skye yesterday evening: fish and chips in Broadford, then a magical tour through familiar parts of the Western Highlands in soft evening light. After a car bivouac outside Crianlarich, I woke at 4.30am, was devoured by clouds of midges as I performed my morning ablutions, and decided to crack on instead of bothering with a claggy, midgy run over An Caisteal (my original intention). Instead, I pushed on down quiet early morning roads and pulled up at the primary school in Wiston, Lanarkshire, at 7am. This is not the standard way up Tinto, but the route is fairly obvious after the lodge is negotiated. A series of inclining cow fields leads to a steeper section at the open hill. It was cool and breezy, with some cloud boiling up to the east, but no hint of what was in store. In the event, as my run slowed to a walk for the steep final climb, I began to suspect I might be in for a treat as cloud wisps lapped up from the valleys. At the summit, which is a huge cairn, a glorious cloud inversion - particularly solid to the east. It had taken me less than 25 minutes running from Wiston, so I just enjoyed the spectacular effects for a few minutes. Stunning and a totally unexpected bonus from such an innocuous hill. To the south, the Uplands stretched out above the sea of cloud. I ran back via a more direct route to Wiston, over the main path through the scree 'crag' back to the village before the primary school opened for the morning.

North Cuillin traverse

Peaks: Knight's Peak (914m), Sgurr nan Gillean (964m), Bhasteir Tooth (917m), Bruach na Frith (958m)
Routes: Pinnacle Ridge (D:al), West Ridge (M:sol), Naismith's Route (S:led p.1)
Area: Black Cuillin, Skye
The agonies of choice became even more acute today, as circumstances meant it was my last day on Skye - a whistlestop trip. One option was climbing on Blaven, but Vic had the whole week at his disposal so I opted for another mountaineering outing with a dash of spice. A good option, because for me Sgurr nan Gillean is the best mountain in Scotland. I first climbed it via the normal south-east ridge in 1993 and have done all the other contenders for that accolade - I just think its appearance and elegant ridge routes to the summit, with no easy options, make it a great mountain. As such, the full traverse - up Pinnacle Ridge and down the West - is quite special, completed all three ridges on the mountain for me, and was just the first part of a memorable day. Pinnacle Ridge itself is one of the most eye-catching lines in the British Isles, much closer to an Alpine route than a British rock climb - PD+ rather than Diff. We walked in from Sligachan taking the route I'd used to Am Basteir in 2015. From the blunt spur at the entrance to Coire Bhasteir, we moved up to the obvious ribs that lead to the top of the first pinnacle. This is not necessarily the normal route but gave some excellent scrambling. The weather was not as perfect as it has been: grey, with a spot of very light drizzle, although it improved slightly later and the cloudbase remained high. We roped up and I led a nice pitch to gain the top of the second pinnacle via a series of walls and chimneys. The ridge is broad at this point, and just a walk, so we moved together - this became Alpine style as the route steepens towards the third pinnacle. Some slabs and a nice open groove gain the top and a sudden dramatic change in character as the ridge plunges down to a breche between the pinnacle and Knight's Peak, which looms beyond the gap with a big drop to the north. We had very little information about the ridge, as it was a last-minute decision, so initially it was unclear where the route went. There was abseil tat, however, and after some scouting around, we descended where the nail scratches were - and once abseiling down it all becomes much clearer and less dramatic. The wall descends to an open chimney which the abseil continues down to gain the tiny col between the two peaks. I led a pitch up the obvious traverse line up right to a flake, then good easy climbing up slabby rock. Vic continued with another long easy pitch on good rock to the top of Knight's Peak itself, surely one of the hardest summits in the UK to reach (although I believe it lost its Munro top status recently). This is a great place, and another gulf separates it from Gillean. This time, however, it can be negotiated by downclimbing and traversing round a gendarme to gain another 'breche'. From here, the route finding is complex - I climbed down the gully before ascending a vague orange groove. There were very few anchors, and I eventually emerged at the traverse path which marks the end of the route. After bringing up Vic, we continued to traverse, airy in places, to the West Ridge. I went up this to the Window, then came down for lunch. We descended the rest of the ridge, abbing down Tooth chimney to avoid a very slow guided party, then took the traverse path on snow patches and scree below Am Basteir on the Sligachan side (I failed to find this route in thick mist in 2015, hardly surprising as it is quite tenuous). After the snow patch, the steep scree is hard work and leads underneath the unappealing King's Cave chimney, which was likely to be our abseil descent route.We left our sacks at the Bealach nan Lice, and took the ridge towards the Basteir Tooth, another legendary feature of the Cuillins and almost certainly the most intimidating pitch on the ridge if the classic Naismith's Route is taken. I led an easy first pitch traversing right over lots of space to a spike, then Vic led through. It is, of course, far easier than it looks from below: a simple groove leads to a traverse, then a surprisingly tricky move (perhaps taken too far right) to a ledge before the final, obvious finishing cracks in a tremendous position. Pulling over was a real surprise. The summit of the Tooth is above, but reached via a gently sloping roof - not precipitous at all. Still, another great place to be, and to have to ourselves. I'd done Am Basteir in 2015, so we slithered down to an abseil point. A short ab led down to King's Cave Chimney, a dank and gloomy cleft between the Tooth and Am Basteir. From here, another 25m abseil, free hanging initially, led down the dripping cleft to the traverse path we'd just taken. All very efficient again, and after a snack we ambled to the top of Bruach na Frith, a munro and one of the simplest of Skye summits. A little sunshine tried to force its way through the clouds, and Vic and I went our separate ways: Glen Brittle in his case, and back down Fionn Choire in mine. I decided to run down, not wanting to miss fish and chips in Broadford. After a short rocky section, I could open out and emerged into the greenery of Coire na Circe where I crossed the Allt Dearg Mor and gained the Glen Brittle path for fast running back to Sligachan, where the view of Glamaig towering in front brought back fond memories of my birthday attempt to break the hour in 2015. I washed in the river, dined in Broadford, and drove to Crianlarich. A memorable three days in the Cuillin, with a necessarily strategic approach taken to the maximising of limited time and the desire to fill the most obvious (30 year) gaps in my British mountaineering CV.

In Pinn to An Dorus

Peaks: Sgurr Dearg (978m), Inaccessible Pinnacle x 2 (986m), Sgurr na Banachdich (965m), Sgurr Thormaid (926m), Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh (973m)
Routes: East Ridge (M:led), South Crack (HVD:sec), South Ridge (2:sol), South-West Ridge (3S:sol)
Area: Black Cuillin, Skye
Spoilt for choice: so little time, and such perfect weather. I have waited years for a decent spell of weather in the Cuillin, so it was a tricky decision balancing the desire to move quickly with the desire to do certain things I'd missed in the past. In the end, we went for a mountaineering day, heading up the steep direct climb up Sgurr Dearg straight from the hut, a path beaten out (presumably) by parties intent on the Inaccessible Pinnacle. Indeed, two guided parties were well ahead of us as we began - another leisurely and late start. The weather was perfect, although rather hot and sweaty, but we ploughed upwards and passed both parties before the ridge steepens and narrows to good grade two scrambling up basalt grooves and gabbro walls to Sron Dearg. Eventually, it emerges on a more level ridge with fabulous views across to Alasdair and Thearlaich, The In Pinn emerges ahead and good scrambling leads to the top of the ridge with the west side of the pinnacle directly in front. This has been an obvious gap for me for literally decades, so it was rather weird - but very wonderful - to get it to ourselves and romp up it in minutes. Nobody was around, so we skittered down the slab to the start, roped up, and I led to the top on my old 9mm in one giant pitch. It all took no more than five minutes, but was still hugely enjoyable as the east ridge is obviously wonderfully positioned - essentially a classic arete with huge juggy holds and a lot of space all round. Great views in all directions. After bringing up Vic, we abbed off, then headed straight back for the South Crack. I thought this would be dirty and rarely, if ever, climbed, but I was wrong: it is an excellent 30 metre pitch, a connoiseur's route up the In Pinn, steep but juggy and a very strong line. I then led to the top, again, and we abbed off the chain before the first guided party had even started. Two ascents of the In Pinn in less than an hour - a very cool start to the day! Time for lunch as we watched the guided parties go up, then it was the mouthwatering prospect of a northwards ridge traverse to An Dorus in spectacular conditions as cloud filled the valleys around Blaven. Easy walking along the airy ridge leads to a few steps and then the South Ridge of Banachdich, We took this direct which is exposed in places and leads to a couple of false summits before we finally moved left and enjoyed the simple scramble to the summit, which is quite different in character from most of the rest of the range. It is precipitous to the east, but a gentle ridge down to Glen Brittle meant that there were numerous walkers up here, one of the easiest Skye munros. Great views over the ridge, and a tricky section comes next, with the line not immediately obvious. A descent, then an awkward traverse over scree leads to a narrow gap before the excellent scramble up Sgurr Thormaid, an impressive peak from this angle. A small summit, then easier scrambling down towards the Three Teeth. These are passed surprisingly easily on the left, before the perfect scrambling up the sustained and splendid south-west ridge of Greadaidh. This is one of the narrowest sections of all higher up, with a knife-edge connecting the south summit with the main top. We took a diagonal line up to the crest, all brilliant, then the airy crest before a short chimney and a traverse regains the gap between the two summits. The northern side is simpler, with shelves leading past the 'wart' to a slabby descent. At the bottom, I knew a tricky wall lurked, because I chose to leave it in 2015 when it was soaking and the freezing wind howled through the gap of An Dorus. Today, it was still steep, but completely dry and a doddle to regain An Dorus. The descent was the same as 2015, after I'd climbed Mhadaidh in dreadful weather: tiresome screes lead to gentler slabs and then a delightful stream (and rehydration). The lower cwm was baking and tinder dry, and we were back for an earlier finish than yesterday.

Cioch climbing and South Cuillin ridge

Peaks: Sron na Ciche (859m), Sgurr Sgumain (947m), Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn (938m), Sgurr Dubh Mor (944m)
Area: Black Cuillin, Skye
Routes: Cioch Direct (S:led p.2,4), Arrow Route (VD:led p.1), Collie's Route (M:led), Integrity (VS 4b,4b:sec), TD Gap East Side (VD:sec)
The archetypal 'big day', and a wonderfully varied curtain-raiser to a short but successful Skye trip. I had prevaricated about any kind of Scottish trip this year, with the children not wanting to come, but as the forecast was so good, and the weather so stable in a blocking high, the 11 hour drive seemed worth it. Vic was already up, and Skye seemed the best option with torrential downpours inland (one of which I'd driven through yesterday). So, rather unexpectedly I found myself making my fourth visit to the island, but the first in properly stable weather (in 1993 we endured a week of continual rain, in 2015 it was mixed but very cold). Walking in to Coire Lagan on the first morning was a delight: red throated divers on loch an fhir bhallaich, with the sea turquoise beyond, and Rum and Soay glittering. Then, it is round the corner into Coire Lagan, one of the finest bowls of rock in the UK. I have vivid memories of a brief clearance here in 1993 as we walked in for the north ridge of Sgumain. Today, it was baked dry, and we were glad of the shade as we set off up the first pitch of the grand old classic Cioch Direct. This takes a series of grooves and chimneys in a 500ft romp up towards the Cioch itself. A tricky first move gains an easy open groove and good moves on the wonderful gabbro - above, easier climbing to the stance. I then led a shorter second up two tighter grooves to a good flake belay: good climbing on more superb rock. The crux comes immediately afterwards, a steep and tight chimney which is awkward with big sacks, which we were both carrying. But we squeezed through using holds on the right wall. Finally, I led a long and exposed final pitch which heads leftwards over slabs to twin cracks, which give interesting climbing to a slabby finish and a terrace. Above, a scrambly pitch gains a wider terrace and the full grandeur of the crag and environment becomes clear for the first time. Up right, the shadow of the Cioch itself, arguably the most famous rock feature in the British Isles. Directly above, the perfect slab taken by Arrow Route. We were intent on the classic combination, so I led an easy first pitch to belay at the break, before Vic padded up to the top - superb open slab climbing, delightfully simple but in a wonderful position on perfect rock. Then comes the real thrill of standing on the narrow neck below the Cioch, which I now led up to via an easy crack system, the top of Collie's Route. We had it to ourselves as I bought Vic up - a wonderful, memorable experience. The sun was just beginning to peep over the top of the crag, and it lit the Cioch as we sat on its roof (the size of a small room) suspended above the crag. After lunch, we continued up the final part of the combination: Integrity, which starts from a recess above a diagonal ledge. The first pitch is outstanding: perfect clean rock, steep initially up to a pocketed slab. The pitch lengths were wrong in our guidebook so Vic ended up leading the second too from a cramped stance as I didn't fancy the move over the roof wearing a sac. The real belay is directly above: annoying. A series of chimneys then leads to the top in a stunning position. Above, an easy pitch to gain the plateau on top of Sron na Ciche in fabulous weather - light mist was now draped over Sgurr Dearg and brushing the top of Alastair above. We relaxed in the sunshine as the day was young, we'd only taken a few hours for the combination (Cioch Direct was dispatched in an hour). Then, it was time for the mountaineering aspect of the day and I was desperate to get to grips with the ridge in these conditions. We headed up Sgumain via some fine scrambling (last here in 1993), then down to the traverse path below Alasdair which leads to the main ridge just south of the T-D gap. Vic suggested we reccie this famous section of the ridge, so we moved along towards it, finding an initial pitch up an easier gap (on which we moved together) before abbing into the famous Thearlaich-Dubh gap itself. Sadly, another party were on it and were moving unbelievably slowly, so we took the frustrating decision to head back up the south side, a short VD climb, before following the ridge south to Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn. This section is broad and uncomplicated, although the subsequent branch to the munro of Sgurr Dubh Mor is far more complex and would be hard in mist. Pinnacles are avoided to the right, then a traverse path leads to superb scrambling as we took as direct a line as possible to the summit. Short walls and grooves, generally perfect gabbro, brilliant fun even though we were tiring. Then, at the sharp summit, as the sun began to drop, stunning views down to Coruisk and Sleat to the east. We then picked up the less than obvious traverse path back to Bealach a Gharbh Coire, almost certainly not the best route, tough terrain throughout, particularly at the end of a long day. I'd intended to sprint up Sgurr nan Eag but the thought of food and drink got the better of me: we were dehydrated, inevitably, so jogged down to the stunning Coire a'Ghrunnda, its sky-blue water glittering in the evening sunshine. Below the tricky slabs, a stream, and relief (although the midges soon moved us on). A long walk-out under deep blue cloudless skies ensued, and it was close to 9pm by the time we got back to the Glen Brittle memorial hut, where I slept in the van to the sound of curlew and drumming snipe.

Sron Garbh run

It had been my intention to break the long drive to Skye with a run over some Southern Highlands peaks. But after a late breakfast in Moffat, and lunch on the shores of of Loch Lomond, slow moving showers came in as I set out up An Caisteal from the layby south of Crianlarich. The cloudbase was quite high, so I kept running - torn between wanting to do something and wanting to save energy for Skye. The rain became a bit more steady as I left the path for the steep climb up the nose of Sron Garbh, obvious from the main road. As I crested the ridge to get a view of Twistin Hill and An Caisteal, there was a clap of thunder. A good sign, I thought, and turned round for a running descent back to the car. Still, a nice way to stretch the legs and bonus energy saved to spend over the next few days.

North Berwyn Way

Peaks: Pen Creigiau'r Barcud, Moel Fferna, Vivod Mountain
Area: Berwyn
An excellent point to point run over remote terrain from Corwen to Llangollen. We left early in the morning, to find the hills above Llangollen clagged in but the hills further west clear - the result of the perfect eastern airflow which is leading to great conditions in the western fringes of the UK. The route crosses the A5 then gives a nice flat warm-up along the banks of the Dee - very pretty on an early May morning - to Cynwyd. From here, the route climbs steadily but never too steeply through Cynwyd forest towards the most remote parts of the Berwyn (indeed, much of the route was new to me although I have been up the hills before). Jez and I kept a decent pace going throughout and detoured to the top of Pen Creigiau'r Barcud - an obscure spot indeed - before rejoining the main, very runnable path towards Bwlch Cynwyd. Atmospheric conditions here, as the moist, misty air from the east hit the clearer air to the west. We ran to the top of Fferna in shifting mists, then it was into damp clag for the rest of the trip - heading east above the Ceiriog forest to Vivod (last visited during the Ceiriog Canter race). From Vivod, it is all downhill in a direct line to Llangollen, finishing with the very steep bridleway from Ffynnon Las. Less than 2.5 hours car-to-car: this would make an excellent loop combined with the Dee Valley Way, ideal ultra training. Refuelled stylishly with dosas and Keralan curry.

Moel Siabod walk

Peak: Moel Siabod
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
We would normally be in Scotland during Whit week, but this year it was unfeasible for numerous reasons, so my birthday treat (which has been a family hillwalk for the last few years - Creag Dubh last year, Ben Hiant in 2016) was going to have to be a tad more local. I felt Siabod would be ideal, so we did the classic circuit through the quarries and above Llyn y Foel. The weather was lovely first thing, but began to cloud over and become disappointingly hazy as we began the mild scramble up Ddaear Ddu, the gentle ridge leading to the summit. I thought they would have enjoyed this, but instead they found it a tedious grind! It does have the virtue of directness though, and moods improved as we ate our lunches on the summit. No real views, sadly, because of the haze. The family were then further boosted by the discovery that my promise of an easy descent was grounded in reality! Straight down to the cafe, and I ran back for the car before enjoying the cake.

Dyserth climbing

Crag: Dyserth Castle Slab
Routes: Genesis (f6b+:led), Isabella Rose (f6a:led), Llewellyn ap Gruffydd (f6a+:led), Tegengle (f6a:sec)
I'd intended to embrace the steepness of Ty Newydd, but after thunderstorms yesterday it was wet when we arrived in the morning, steam rising from the temperate rainforest in this secluded valley. So it was on to plan b, which involved revisiting the Castle Slab. The weather was warm and sunny, and I started off by repeating Genesis, the hardest route here but absurdly overgraded at 6b+. It has lovely technical moves, crisp and crimpy, and a tricky crux, but it isn't sustained and would barely warrant 6a in Provence. Time was very limited, and I led the longer routes to the left (again) before Steve took the lead for Tegengle. After lunch, I ran from home to Chester for a family walk.

Mynydd Myfyr race

Race: Mynydd Myfyr hill race, Trefonen (4m/500ft)
Time/Position: 24.18 (8th from 50)
I knew I would suffer on this short race, having done no speedwork for months, but I also knew it would do me good with a couple of team events coming up as a break from the ultras. I'd never done it before, although I have done most of the events that take in the hills of the Oswestry hinterland: always very pleasant. This was no exception, as it leaves Trefonen up lanes and tracks to take in a longer loop round to the top of the miniature mountain of Mynydd Myfyr (the race remains on the 'English' side of the border throughout). From here, it descends through fields and lanes back to the finish outside the village pub. Warm and humid, although we avoided the thundery showers passing through.

Craig Ddu climbing

Crag: Craig Ddu, Nant Peris
Routes: Zig Zag (VS 4b:sec), Rift Wall (VS 4c,5a,4a:led p.1)
Always satisfying to grab some routes at this notoriously slimy, slow-drying crag, but it was particularly so today as it started to rain as we finished Rift Wall. Even better, both routes were new to me. In the past, I've done a few routes here on a few different visits to the crag, which looks so unappealing and black (as its name suggests) from the road. The left-side of the crag is particularly bad - the routes feel a tad disconcerting although the climbing is often fairly easy and the pocketed, juggy rock is actually excellent. Still, I had no great desire to lead Zig Zag, which Vic did in a single pitch. Sadly, he didn't reach the top so I had to climb to the first ledge to allow him to belay - all on instinct, we couldn't hear each other. Good juggy rock leads to a short groove and steep move to gain a vague diagonal ramp which leads to a wet and insecure section even after a long dry period. Easy climbing throughout and a worthwhile outing. Rift Wall is a better route, which nudges classic status and has three unusually varied pitches with interesting climbing throughout. I led the first, up a pocketed wall to a ledge, then a steep move up a shorter wall to gain a big flake and a traverse line leading back right. This is harder than it looks, but gives good, steady climbing - steep in places with the wall impending above - to gain a pinnacle and then a hidden slab further up on the right. The crux comes immediately afterwards, and Vic took this second pitch. A steep corner crack is tackled by tricky bridging moves to a high side pull, then better holds and fun, juggy climbing. It ends abruptly at a slab, after which the entire route eases (fortunately, as it was now raining - the end of the dry spell). The route ends with an exposed traverse left round an arete on huge flakey holds. The rain became steadier as we descended, so we called it a day, happy to tick off two rarely-in-condition minor Snowdonian classics.

Llanberis Slate climbing

Crag: Australia, Llanberis Slate
Routes: Cyber World Slate Heads (f6a+:led), Unnamed route (f5c:sec), Steps of Glory (f5:sec), Plastic Soldier (f6a:led)
An opportunity to stay at the perfectly located Vagabond's hut above Nant Peris, and glorious conditions as we arrived mid-afternoon. The hut is at the foot of Elidir Fawr and a lovely walk leads up to the slate quarries from its front door, through a notch to Twll Mawr. Slate was the obvious choice given the lateness of the hour, and we climbed up to the Sidings, quite high up in the spectacular bowl of Australia, somewhere I have climbed a lot, and one of my favourite spots in the quarries with its views across to Eilio and Snowdon. The 6a+ groove of Cyber World has a hard start. I borrowed a clip stick for the first bolt, then tenuous bridging and smearing leads eventually to a good hold. I may have taken an overly pure approach to the groove, as the right wall is easier. Bigger holds then lead up to the strenuous roof, unusual for slate, with excellent moves right to gain the steep arete: simultaneously balancey and strenuous. I also did the obvious line further right up the blunt arete to the same lower-off, as well as the easy f5 up the stepped ledges (done before). All four of us then walked up to the Skyline buttress. Vic led the f6a on the right, while I took Plastic Soldier immediately left. Simultaneously climbing at the same pace, both belayed by a different Steve: a recipe for confusion! I've done these routes before, they are excellent long pitches, 40 metres, well bolted, with delicate and elegant climbing in a wonderful location at the top of the quarries. The sun was setting over Anglesey as I topped out - only to find that I'd forgotten the belay plate! A memorable walk down as the sun dipped towards the Irish Sea, beautiful colours, with Crib Goch a deep orange as we arrived back at the hut.

Lucca run

Hard to imagine a more pleasant urban run than this. We were staying in the wonderful Tuscan town of Lucca for three nights, and it just happens to be encircled by 4.2km of perfectly preserved rennaissance walls. This was ideal for running, and scores of runners and cyclists were out enjoying the beautiful early morning weather as I set off on the second morning. I did the same route on Saturday morning: a mile warm-up from the hotel to the walls, then the loop, and then back to resume our exploration of Tuscan food culture. Today, I gave the walls a proper blast, and completed the entire 4.2km loop in 16 minutes - not too shabby considering my lack of speed at present. Then, it was off to the train station for a day trip through the hills to Florence, refuelling on tripe and lampreddotto.

Frogsmouth climbing

Crag: Frogsmouth Quarry, Runcorn
Routes: Green Slab (f4:led), Trilogy (f4+:led), Just After Fifty (f6a:led*), Just After Fifty (f6a:sec)
Climbing in Runcorn: I never thought I would see the day. This, however, is an unexpected and interesting venue - perhaps even unique as a bolted sandstone crag. It becomes obvious quite quickly that the routes are sandbags, uncompromising and meanly graded. The 6a's feel more like 6c's, or that was my impression on this very brief reccie. We kicked off on the easy slab furthest right, a secluded locale which gives a couple of warm-ups, even those are on rounded rock. The quarry itself is tree-lined, sheltered, and surprisingly pleasant as an evening venue in warm sunshine: not the urban horror show I'd expected. The steep side wall with sculpted features was steep and harder than it looks. I led Just After Fifty, with a hard and dynamic start, lunging for side pulls until a frieze of jugs and pockets is reached. The route doesn't relent, though, and steepens again to a flat hold with a steep finish. I rested a couple of times, briefly, on the lead: it felt more like 6b or even 6b+ to me, although the routes do have quite precise sequences and it may be that I'd missed the solutions. I did it again cleanly with rope above before we finished: my second time on sandstone in as many days, very unusual for me as this has never been my favourite style of climbing.

Helsby climbing

Crag: Helsby, Cheshire
Routes: Wood's Climb (HVS 5a:sh), Wafer Wall (E2 5b:sh), Crack of Doom (S:sh), Little Light (MS:sh)
Another venue I visit only occasionally - intermittent visits going back to an early solo of Grooved Slab 27 years ago. It is an acquired taste which I have never quite acquired, and this short afternoon trip saw me shunt a few routes I haven't done before. Wood's Climb was the most notable, a minor classic of the area. This needs good conditions, but was still green, a bit dirty and insecure today despite the sunshine. As a result, the early crux moves over the first bulge felt hard on a loose shunt - shallow pockets for the feet, awkward side pulls, easier when tackled from the left. Above, the groove is easier but quite delicate initially until better holds on the left wall lead to the top. On the lower tier, Wafer Wall was also a bit green but gave lovely climbing on the shunt, delicate and balancy on tiny edges and pockets. The Crack of Doom is a horrible slimy thrutch up an off-width crack, grade irrelevant, and Little Light a more pleasant micro-route to the left. Finished with a jog round Helsby quarry, still a bit tired after Saturday.

Sandstone Trail challenge

Race: Sandstone Trail Ultra (34m/55k)
Time/Position: 5.08 (5th from 193)
There is always something particularly satisfying about a point-to-point race, and this famous route works really well as an informal short ultra: in essence, a south-north traverse of the whole of Cheshire, from Whitchurch over the Shropshire border to Frodsham in the far north of the county. I ran the better known short (17m) Sandstone race way back in 2008, but have wanted to do this event since it was revived in 2011. Given the emphasis I've placed on distance this year, the Sandstone was an essential addition (as the third ultra of five planned for 2018) and I got a place just after entries opened back in December (it sells out in a few hours). An early start from Frodsham and a bus to the start in the centre of Whitchurch in perfect May running weather - crystal clear and cool - was a nice beginning. The route starts along the Shropshire Union canal, a gentle warm-up and much more interesting than I'd expected it to be, past little pubs and pastoral scenery with birdsong in the early morning: all immensely tranquil and relaxed, a far cry from the usual frenetic road and fell racing. It then heads north away from the canal over endless fields towards the first CP at Bickleywood. I was easing into the race nicely, and picked the pace up for the next long section over fields to Hampton Heath with Larkton Hill in front, indicating a change of tone where the race loops past Maiden Castle and the scenery picks up. Excellent running over the escarpment of Bickerton Hill, above the crag where I bouldered this time last year - big views west to the Clwydians. This whole section is a delight, with wooded sections leading to unexpected views then ridgetop running before plunging back into woodland again. After CP2, the route curves round to take in the Peckforton Hills above Burwardsley before heading towards the prominent Beeston Tor. I remembered this section from the 'other' race, and it marked the half way point. I was still feeling pretty good, which was just as well as a long, flatter section follows - west of Tarporley heading north to Kelsall and eventually Delamere. I began to catch some of the runners who'd past me earlier on. I was pretty sure that Jez and three others would stay clear (well clear!) but I eventually found myself in front of the rest with one other chap who knew the route through Delamere well (although it is actually better marked now than it used to be - I had been a bit concerned about making minor errors here). From the exit at Manley Common (CP5) I knew the route very well - along the B5393 to cut north across a series of fields with views to the industry of the Mersey marking the natural conclusion of the trail. I use the final section above the Frodsham crags to the monument as a training run on my way home from Warrington, so with no concerns about the route I turned on the afterburners to secure fifth position. From the monument, I decided to get the pain of the final descent over with as quickly as possible, the scent of pie and peas in my nostrils! A good fell race-style plunge through the woods and into the tarmac of town, arriving at the Frodsham community centre in a reasonable 5.08. The third ultra of the year for me, and the most enjoyable yet: it reminded me of the two ultras I've done in previous years, the Laugavegur and the Manx, in that all are point-to-point events with a clear sense of purpose and direction.

Craig y Forwyn climbing

Crag: Craig y Forwyn, Llysfaen
Routes: Route 66 (VS 4c:sec), Duchess (HVS 5a:sec), Heart Attack (HS 4b:led), Plas Newydd Groove (VS 4b:led)
Back again to the 'banned crag', our third visit spread over nine years, since limited access was supposedly granted (the crag has famously been banned since I started climbing in the late 80s). We kept it strictly 'legal', parking in the correct place and heading down to the right-hand side where Vic led the easy VS of Route 66 which is a nice route up a corner to a traverse which gains an obvious open (and vegetated) corner to the top. We did this in 2009, but were then shouted down from a neighbouring route despite the fact that this section has free access. No such problems this time, so we did the excellent Duchess. This gives straightforward low-end HVS climbing up the slabby face left of Route 66. The initial crack gives great moves on big holds to an airy traverse right, which gains a superb pocketed wall diagonally left to an easy finish up a broken groove. Good climb, particularly by the standards of UK trad limestone. We then moved across to the left-hand, shorter and less impressive. We visited here a few years ago and ticked the best routes. This time, I filled in two gaps at around the same grade, both following corner/groove lines. The HS involves a thrutchy back-and-foot corner to an easy pull round a bulge. The groove, further right, is a tad harder, up a corner to another bulge and continuation groove. Both routes nicely sustained at a gentle standard, although both required some excavation to find the best placements: they really do need more traffic.

Penmaenbach climbing

Crag: Penmaenbach, Conwy
Routes: Jack the Jeffer (f6a+:led), A55 Hole Arete (f5:sec), A55 Crack (f6b+:led*), Kiss my A55 Slab (f6c:sec), A55 Crack (f6b+:sec), Y Clip Aur (f5c:sec), Agent Orange (f5c:led), Big A55 Arete (f6a+:sec)
One of the finest evening venues on the coast, with its distinctive red diorite glowing as the sun sets in the west. I've been here four or five times before, but never at this time of day, when it is undoubtedly at its best. It all meant a glorious few hours climbing, mostly on routes I've done before. Jack the Jeffer was an exception though, a new route taking the smooth slab left of the arete. Easy climbing leads to a nice thin slab with some delicate moves to gain an easier finish: overgraded, as is often the case with slate-style routes like this. Vic led the easy arete, then I had a bash at the 6b+ crack which I've failed on before. I failed on it again initially, but this time I did manage to dog my way up the hard section where the crack steepens. It is very awkward taken direct, small holds sloping the wrong way, although I eventually got my feet high enough to go for a more positive hold and got to the lower-off. Later, I did it entirely clean with rope above: climbing from the left allows for the awkward slopers to be used more effectively. We also did the f6c slab, at our technical limits. This goes easily into the corner, where thin moves up a closed crack with nothing for the feet eventually allow for a lunge to gain a horizontal crack on the wall above. A highly tenuous traverse follows: good climbing. After these big numbers, not ideal in the heat (it has been a hot and sunny bank holiday) we retreated further left where we did two routes I've done before - Agent Orange is particularly pleasant up a steepish wall on good holds, and the arete is enjoyable too. Still tired after yesterday's race, so this was more than enough for one weekend.

South Mynd Tour

Race: South Mynd Tour (14.6m/3800ft/AL)
Time/Position: 2.40.31 (10th from 40)
No plans to race this weekend, with the Sandstone Trail rapidly approaching, but Vic was heading down to Shropshire for this new event and it seemed ideal as a moderately long run two weeks after London. The weather was absolutely glorious, and I always enjoy my occasional trips to races across the Shropshire Hills. I've only done the classics like Long Mynd Valleys, Stretton Skyline and Cardington Cracker: but this race deliberately takes in the more obscure terrain south of the Long Mynd, with considerable route choice in places. As such, as well as the fact that I dialled my pace down deliberately with a view to next week's ultra, this was a tremendously enjoyable outing. We arrived in Little Stretton as the race was starting (!) having been delayed by traffic, but they kindly halted things as we got ready. The start sees runners heading in both directions to the top of Callow, the first checkpoint. I went up Ashes Hollow then cut left for the steep climb. I was third over the top but there were already five runners in front who'd taken the other route! From here, lovely running heading south on tracks and paths, crossing numerous side valleys, with a steep final descent towards Minton. All very scenic, as ever in these parts. From here, the route was marked for a long, runnable and very hot section up to the conifer forest above Priors Holt. This was probably the toughest part of the race and I was beginning to dehydrate. We emerged from the forest to take a long open descent towards the far south of the range, turning on to the last part of the ridge before a steep descent to Myndtown, a long way from Little Stretton. I lost contact with the two runners I'd been with at this point, and stopped for a welcome drink at this checkpoint. Above loomed the desperately steep Asterton Bank, which I cycled in 2014 and considered harder than the Col de Madeleine done in the same year! We moved back on to the ridge before that, though, following the Shropshire way back to the forest before a long leg with tricky nav up to the gliding club, then down west again to Prolley Moor. A final climb up Stanbatch and then it was the gentle ascent to the highpoint at Pole Bank. The final descent offered up another major route decision: I went for a compromise, probably unwisely, pelting down the ridge to Narnell's Rock before plunging steeply into the delightful Ashes Hollow, which I always enjoy. It was probably quicker to follow the ridge, but it didn't matter: the valley is so pretty and I thoroughly enjoyed the run in back to the finish at Little Stretton. I then enjoyed 20 minutes of relaxation in the most perfect imaginable May weather, bathing in the stream then lying on a knoll further up Ashes Hollow, before Vic, Steve and Emma crossed the finish line and we had a sunny pint in the Ragleth Inn.

Orme climbing

Crag: Pen Trwyn, Llandudno
Routes: Reading Henry by the Road (f6a+:led), Years of Abuse (f6b+*:sec), Frontiers of Reality (f6a+:led), Absolute Beginners (E2 5c:sec)
Crag: Castle Inn Quarry
Routes: Comeback Kid (f4:sec), Mynydd Marian variant (VS 4c:sec), Indian Summer (f6a+:led), Mynydd Marian (VS 4c:sec), School Mam (f6a:led), Cakewalk Direct (f6b+:sec)
With a little more strength at my disposal than usual, we headed to the Orme for a quick session at the 'End of the Road' as the Bank Holiday crowds began to build. As always, Pen Trwyn packs a punch on even the easiest of routes, which are invariably harder than they look. The 6a+ at the right hand side had a patch of seepage, which didn't help, and my foot slipped off for the obvious crux move over a bulge. A good sidepull is a bit too low, so a hard move to an obvious flat hold is needed. I weighted the bolt, then did it again further right. Good rock, as is the 6b+ to its left, which I found desperate - a series of lunges to tiny calcite pinch holds until, eventually a horizontal hold is gained at the break. Further left is the Small Bore area, another short section of good rock right next to the road. Frontiers of Reality is not quite the route its rather pretentious name suggests - a smooth pocketed groove leads to a hard crux moving left past the second bolt on tenuous smears and bridging moves. Then, a steeper finish on good rock with good holds. To its left, an old trad route with an awkward bulging start to easier climbing up a curving crack. I then failed right at the top of another 6b, before calling a halt to the steepness and retreating to Castle Inn so Steve could do something. Glorious evening sunshine now, at last spring was arriving in time for the Bank Holiday. Warm rock as we romped up a few old favourites, as well as the crackline of Mynydd Marian, which I had no memory of doing before. Both School Mam and Cakewalk Direct were glorious in the sunshine - I've done both numerous times before but they now feel massively overgraded, possibly because extra bolts have been added. I would say School Mam is no more than f5.

Trevor climbing

Crag: Trevor, Eglwyseg
Routes: Deputy Dog (f4c:sec), Dogmatic (f6a:led), Long Legged Lizard from Liverpool (f6a:led), Hornier Toad (f6b:sec), K9 (f5a:sec), Dogs of War (f6a+:sec), Chocolate Fudd (f6a+:led*), Chocolate Fudd (f6a+:sec), Betty Bop Rides Again (VS 4c:sec), Elmer J Fudd (VS 4b:led), The Fuddites (f6b:sec)
Yet another trip to this most scruffy of crags: too many recent visits. It is convenient, though, and worked for training purposes on this short outing. Steve led an easy route, and I followed up with Dogmatic, up a dirty groove at 6a. I was trying to tick the few routes I haven't done before and almost all are characterised by short, hard cruxes: the French grading system doesn't really work at this scruffy venue. Most of the shorter routes are not sustained, but have tough, usually polished cruxes. I led the easy 6a up the slab, done before, and then did Hornier Toad - hard moves above the bulge on a tiny side pull. Two more short ones, then Chocolate Fudd at 6a+. This is better, rough and textured rock, and quite sustained. Small holds lead to the arete, then moves left to clip the final bolt and a dynamic finish, quite hard for the grade. I briefly weighted the bolt: so did it again from the bottom clean. After failing on The Fuddites at 6b, I led Elmer Fudd on trad gear (an easy VS), then did it clean - a fierce pull on a mono leads to a flat hold and easier finish. Finished with a jog over the viaduct.

Holyhead Mountain climbing

Crag: Holyhead Mountain
Routes: The Wandering Primrose (S 4a:led), Stairs (S 4a:sec), Teenage Kicks (S 4a:led), Laceration (VS 5a:sec), Sump Direct (HS 4b:led), Andover (VS 5a:sec), Tempest (S 4a:led), Tension (VS 4b:sec)
Always an ideal venue for an early season shakedown, with its varied routes and friendly aspect. We just concentrated on mileage on this short, late visit, with the weather less-than-ideal yet again (ironically, the London marathon weekend was by far the hottest of the year so far). It was cold and very windy as I led the Wandering Primrose, which takes a slab to an overlap with a delicate step to gain a spike. Then easy climbing up nice pocketed rock to the freezing top. After Vic led Stairs, I took the arete to its right (as ever, I was trying to tick routes I hadn't done before). Teenage Kicks starts up the gully before pulling onto the arete which gives nice airy climbing to join the upper Stairs slab. I've done Laceration before, a pleasant VS, and followed this with Sump Direct. I don't think I've done this before: a nice juggy corner leads to a vague and easy ramp, before a steep and slightly thrutchy finishing chimney (not ideal with a right elbow entirely skinned after my marathon fall, raw flesh scraping rock). Nice route, varied: light rain throughout, but it cleared to blue sunshine as we moved across to the Quartz Wall and Vic led Andover. This is a fine pitch, new to me, steep but superbly juggy, as with most of the routes on this wall. An overlap after 10m is taken on wonderful quartzy holds and the rest stays interesting. On the way down, I spied the attractive groove taken by Tempest and nipped up it: a short but worthwhile Severe and a very obvious line with a steep finish. Finally, as more cool weather moved in, Vic led the old favourite Tension, which I've led in the past: a delightful VS which looks tricky but is actually delightfully simple from start to finish, superbly positive holds throughout.

Deeside border league

Race: Deeside 4.6m (Border League race 6)
Time/Position: 27.17 (52nd from 322)
Probably the fourth or fifth time I've done the final border league fixture three days after London. It is never pleasant, but at least this time it didn't count for anything for me (unlike 2016, when it all came down to the last race in Prestatyn). However, Buckley were going for the league title, for only the second time since I've been a member (2006 was the last time I think), along with the Veterans title again. But, in the event, I didn't even score for the team: first time that's happened as far as I can remember. It seemed like I was maintaining a decent speed, in a group with familiar faces, but the reality was that I was well down the field and recorded my lowest finishing position for at least a decade.

London marathon

Race: London Marathon
Time/Position: 3.13.50 (2305th from 42000)
My slowest road marathon since 2007, coincidentally (or not!) the last 'hot' London marathon. Temperatures today climbed to 24c, so it wasn't ideal for fast times - but I still expected to do a little better, although I knew well in advance that I was nowhere near PB territory. The problem today was obvious - I have lots of distance in my legs from recent ultras but no speed - indeed, ultras just encourage you to walk at various points. So it wasn't a surprise to find myself struggling at the classic 17-18m point. To make matters worse, I was tripped from behind five miles in: skinned my elbow quite badly and felt like a wounded wildebeeste on the Serengeti as herds of ruthless good-for-age runners trampled past, preventing me from getting to my feet. After this slight shock, I went through half as planned in 1.28.48, nicely on course for my 6th sub-3 marathon, although I already knew that it was going to be tough in the heat, and was already struggling to maintain the pace from the 10 mile mark. I love the event, though, even when I struggle. This was my 8th running of the London marathon since my first in 2001 (and 21st road marathon): it is just such a tremendous route and such a privilege to be part of a major sporting event. The weather meant the crowds were better than ever, and particularly memorable in the usual places: Tower Bridge, the Embankment and the early stages around Cutty Sark. St John's Ambulance did a fine job of bandaging my bloodied arm in St James's Park: then it was back to Oakwood and straight into the car for the five hour drive home for a bath!

Meliden climbing

Crag: Meliden Quarry
Routes: Hodgson's Groove (f4+:led), Ward's Right Wall (f6b:led), Ward's Left Wall (f6b:sec), Shit No Holds (f6a+*:led), Between the Trees (D:sol), The Steps (D:sec), Grim Rapper (f4:des), First Redpoint (f4:sec)
Finally, a beautiful spring day, and what better place to spend it than a derelict quarry above Meliden? I have never bothered with this place before for good reason, but only had a couple of hours at my disposal as I'd been in work most of the day. So it seemed a good opportunity to tick off the few short routes. The 4+ groove is reasonable, and I then led the right-hand 6b: again, short, but technical climbing on very small but positive holds, with reasonable friction from the relatively unpolished limestone. The 6a+ takes an overhang at the finish, a sharp crux which I did with rope above not wanting to land on the ledge two days before the London marathon! I also did a couple of the easy trad routes, and the two easy routes on the far right. Hot and sunny throughout - the first time I've been in a t-shirt since Cuba.

Llanymynech climbing

Crag: Llanymynech
Routes: The Stringlers (f6b:led), Bah Bah Black Sheep (f6a+:led), Welcome to the Bay variant (f6a:led), Bay Leaf (f5c:sec), Culture Vulture (f5b:sec), Eau de Culture (f5c:led), Culture and Boutique (f6a:sec), No Name (f6a:led*), Culture Cryptic (f5b:sec)
We remembered the 70m rope but due to a mutual misunderstanding we forgot the 15 quickdraws necessary for this venue, only discovering the error at the car park. I'd been with Steve last year and been quite impressed with the Grid Iron wall, but the pitches are very long by the standards of UK sports climbing. Vic and I cobbled together 6 or 7 quickdraws, enough for just the smaller routes - rather annoying. I kicked off with The Stringlers, which takes a vague broken corner via a series of ledges and a couple of tricky moves with a steep crux at the top. Not very good, and not 6b - probably no more than 6a, although the final move over a bulge was hard. Vic backed off the fine 6a+ on the right of the crag: I led this last year and was glad to do so again, it is one of the best sports routes of its grade locally with a steep crux overlap and nice technical wall climbing above. It was getting windy, probably too windy for the bigger routes anyway, so we sought shelter at the Bay Wall over the Welsh border well away from the big walls on the 'Shropshire' side. This is a pretty dreadful crag, insecure and broken. It looks unappealing from below and is even worse in reality. I led a version of Welcome to the Bay, which ended up as a giant traverse, surprisingly long, with dirty and insecure climbing diagonally right up the wall, lowering off before the formal lower-off point which was in a dodgy looking rock scar. I retrieved the gear via the slightly better, more solid, and more logical shallow groove of Bay Leaf. The Cult wall, opposite, is better and more solid: Vic led the two routes at 5b that Steve and I did last year. I led a nice f5c up little positive edges (pulling a big hold off at one point) and we polished off all the routes as the sun finally came out providing some much needed warmth.

Windgather climbing

Crag: Windgather, Western Grit
Routes: Mississippi Crack (S 4a:led), Wall Climb (HVD:led), Chockstone Chimney (D:led)
The plan had been to climb Ravensdale limestone this morning, but after a night in Ravenstor YHA and a pint or two at the Angler's Rest, the day dawned dank, misty and drizzly again. It was even worse than yesterday, so we headed west and just tried to grab a couple of routes at Windgather before going home. The mist was so thick that we couldn't see the crag from the road, and the windchill at the top of the crag was intense. But, as with Castle Naze, the cliff itself was relatively sheltered and I enjoyed Mississippi Crack, which starts steeply over a bulge before romping to the top up big holds: a splendid easy mini-classic. Two more routes, even easier, and both done on my '40 at 40' day in 2010, before the cold wind became unbearable.

Castle Naze climbing

Crag: Castle Naze, Western Grit
Routes: Studio (HS 4b:sec), The Nithin (S 4a:led), Pilgrim's Progress (HS 4b:sec), Muscle Crack/Thin Crack (HS 4b:led)
Appalling weather as we headed across for what was supposed to be an intensive 30 hour climbing trip to the Peak. A moist easterly airflow meant it was unseasonably cold (4c), windy, misty and drizzly - with the weather marginally better in the western Peak. I felt that Castle Naze would give us the best chance of getting something done, and that was indeed the case. But visibility was just a few metres in thick mist and light drizzle was in the air as Vic set off up Studio, which has an awkward start with cold, damp jams up to a mantel before an easier slanting crack to finish. I followed up with the Nithin, which takes a steep crack then good moves up an arete before finishing up a damp chimney. A nice, varied route which kept me out of the drizzle. We then did the old classic Pilgrim's Progress which was hard in these conditions on the first real trad outing of the season. A steep crack with rounded arete holds, surprisingly strenuous, to a green and slimy finish. I then combined the easy start of Muscle Crack to a ledge before finishing up the top section of Thin Crack at around HS. Most of the other routes were damp, green, or both, so we called it a day. My second visit to Castle Naze, a nice venue, quite wild feeling in these conditions: we could have been in the middle of nowhere, as opposed to a few miles outside Chapel en le Frith.

Mold border league

Race: Mold 5m (Border League race 6)
Time/Position: 29.26 (35th from 333)
My decline continues, although after last week's ultra and current total lack of speedwork that is perhaps not too surprising. This is the closest I have come in a decade to not even scoring for Buckley! In the event, I squeezed in as the 10th counter: the team is now well ahead at the top of division 1. I was actually reasonably pleased with my time, only half a minute down on the other two measured five milers this season, on a tougher course. I thought I'd timed the race quite well, making up ground to catch Chris and other Buckley runners with a mile to go. I then blew comprehensively on the final incline back through the industrial estate, losing 10 places, something that has happened in this precise spot numerous times before! After the race, I ran home via an extended route through Buckley: combined with a three mile warm up this gave a decent 16-17 mile long run, the last before London.

Pot Hole climbing

Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: Mango (HS 4a:led), Grizzly (HVS 5a:sec), Cristallo (VS 4b:sec), Selva (VS 4a:sec)
A quick rain-affected visit before the usual Friday run. Yesterday's nice weather hadn't lasted, although it was at least dry as I led Mango (for a quick re-acquaintance with trad) up the side wall. This takes some nice flake cracks to a ledge with a tree before a positive finishing crack. Not quite as badly polished as the main face, although that isn't saying much. There was a team on the best lines, so we just top-roped some of the shorter routes on the right as the rain began. Evening sunshine as we ran up Moel Famau, however.

Trevor climbing

Crag: Trevor Rocks, Eglwyseg
Routes: SND (f4:sec), Cluedo (f5c:sec), Suspect Criminal (f6b:led), Clue, So? (f4+:sec), Amateur Sleuth (f5c:led), Suspectus (f6a+:led*), Suspectus (f6a+:sec), Disappearing Act (f5:led), No Remittal (f6a:sec), Who's Sam (f4:led)
I have long maintained this is one of the worst crags in North Wales, although I've done almost all the routes under 6c so it must be tolerable! Today, after some unaccustomed March wall training, I managed to tick a few of the routes I haven't done before. The best of these was Suspect Criminal, which I led after Steve kicked off with an easy groove. This 6b takes a simple rib to a fierce pull over the overlap to gain the excellent bubbly limestone above. The holds are not obvious, and small, but they are positive and a high step got me established on the bulging finishing wall which is easier than it looks from below. Nice climbing on sharp holds gains the lower-off. Steve led the polished arete, and we then did the truly dreadful f5c to its right, sloping holds, horrible start. Suspectus is the 6a+ which takes the brown groove: I steadied myself on the second clip which is awkwardly placed at the bulge. Powerful moves up this to the break, before short-lived by much more pleasant climbing on the upper wall. I then did it clean with rope above. The polish at this venue is now a bit of an issue, giving some hard starts for the grades. Lovely weather today, superb clarity of spring light - despite the scruffy nature of the crag itself, the views over the valley to Berwyn are some of the best in north-east Wales.

Lakes Mountain 42

Race: Lakes Mountain Ultra, shortened course (28m/7000ft)
Time/Position: 5.30 (22nd from 120)
Generally speaking, I dislike it when races are shortened: believing that the responsibility for competing should rest with the runners, not the organisers. However, there are sometimes exceptions, and today was - I think - one of those where the shortening was probably the right decision. The reason was obvious: hard-packed snow-ice on Helvellyn, where runners would have been tired and vulnerable, along with -17C windchill, meant that one of the two big loops taken by the course was removed entirely. After a night in the back of a van in Askham, we set off for the long (11 mile) climb up High Street at 8am. Given the shortening, it seemed sensible to push a little harder than planned (with a view to marathon training - three weeks until London!). Conditions were fairly grim: this is just open moorland from the edge of the Lakes up to the first checkpoint Loadpot Hill in thick clag and wet snow. From here, the route climbed over a series of whaleback summits, the weather getting progressively worse until we reached the hard-packed snow at High Raise. Jim and I ran together for this section, drifting too far left at one point. A bitter northerly, snow, and icy ground up to High Street - quite a contrast to my last time here, in glorious sunshine on the Kentmere horseshoe last summer. Then came the tricky nav, back north to towards Knott, then looking out for another junction to gain the undulating path to the next checkpoint at Angle Tarn. Snow gave way to driving sleet but we picked a really good line down, excellent running to eventually gain the tarn. We finally emerged from the mist above Boredale Hause with Patterdale below. Very wet, heavy rain, as we entered the climbers hut for a good feed - cheese, nuts and tea. Jim and I were still together as we began the crux climb up Place Fell, taking the normal route (which I last did while Kate had a drink in the hotel, 2001 perhaps) as opposed to the horribly steep direct climb. Either way, it is a hard slog, with heavy snow high up and verglassed rocks on top.Tricky navigation off the fell towards Martindale, new territory for me, although I think I got it more or less right down to the valley then along the road to Martindale. Views over Ullswater for the very long run-in along bridleways back to Askham. Second ultra of the year, albeit much shorter than planned: currently 7th overall in the British ultra running championships although I'm not sure that will last!

Minera climbing

Crag: Minera Quarry
Routes: The Open Grey Groove (f4:led), Hard Start (f6a+:led), Narrow Arete (f6a+:sec)
The mini-beast from the east meant this was an unpleasant experience far removed from previous visits to this undistinguished crag, where it's possible and quite easy to tick all the (overgraded) routes in a couple of hours. Today, no more than 2C and cloudy: horrible and particularly unfortunate given the technical and fingery nature of the climbing. Two leads and it was time to go, the cold spring weather a factor yet again.

Dyserth climbing

Crag: Dyserth Castle Slab
Routes: Tegeingl (f5+:led), The Purple Ladies (f6a:sec), Llewellyn ap Gruffydd to Neil Crud (f6a+:led), Jason and the Aga Nuts (f5a:sec), Leo Saw us Rex (f4:sec)
Crag: Ty Newydd
Routes: Madasafish (f5+:led), Wild Garlic (f6b:led)
An unusually long winter, so it was very welcome to have some sunshine this morning: birdsong and warmth on this sheltered and south-facing crag. I've done all the routes before, so we just used it as a shakedown before I upped the grade slightly for the 6a+ up the vague arete on the left: nicely delicate and an absorbing, enjoyable pitch. Steve led a couple of easy routes, and we then tried to find Ty Newydd, a new venue for me despite its location. It is uncompromisingly steep, hidden in a tight green valley of wild garlic. After a short 5+ warm-up, I led the scruffy Wild Garlic at an awkward 6b, which takes a dirty wall to hard moves round a bulge. Then came some unforecast rain and it was back to normal again.

HK-Famau-Mold

I've been meaning to run from my home on the England-Wales border to the top of Moel Famau for years: this formed an ideal final long run before next weekend's Lakes 42 ultra. From Kinnerton I ran up through Buckley, then Mold and Gwernymynydd. I then did an extra loop through the woods towards Gwernaffield, then briefly joined the usual Friday night run after a snack. I broke off to take the usual route to the summit and then, after an excellent couple of pints at the Collie, ran back to Mold for some much needed food and a lift home. A good 20 miler, albeit slow.

Ras yr Aran

Race: Aran fell race (shortened:5m/600m)
Time/Position: 52.17 (24th from 57)
There are few other races quite as prone to bad weather as this one: coming as it does in mid-March, going up to just below 3000ft, staying high for a while, and with the summit of Aran Fawddwy a long way from help. It is, as a result, one of my favourites: a real mountain race. But it does mean that it often has to adapt to the conditions: last year, this meant it turned back just below the summit scree in ferocious wind and driving rain. One year I can remember it turning back at a very icy Aran Benllyn. This year, it turned round at the much lower Moel Ffenigl, just over 600m, a mere pimple on the long ridge up to Fawddwy. This seemed a shame but was perhaps understandable given the conditions; -20c windchill and snow showers. It's the length of the summit ridge that makes it an unusually exposed race for the time of year. The shortening meant the race turned into a fast dash up to the 600m Ffenigl, which was unfortunate given that I've done no speedwork for months - way off the pace, miles down the field, struggling particularly on the climb as intermittent snow showers swept in, so cold that I got a headache. Warmed down in a blizzard along the side of Llyn Tegid.

Haworth Hobble

Race: Haworth Hobble (32m/4500ft)
Time/Position: 5.44.32 (58th from 313)
Only my third ultra marathon, and those have been widely dispersed over a decade: from the Icelandic Laugavegur in 2008 to the Manx Mountain Ultra in 2012. I'm convinced I am physically unsuited to proper distance events, the longer they go on the worse I do: but focusing on ultras this year does nevertheless have some logic, as I've had enough of speedwork (temporarily), and of the 500 races I've done over a 20 year period, properly long stuff remains the obvious gap. As such, this was just an appetizer, an entry level affair which hovers someway between a short ultra and a long fell race in character. It was a superb event, hugely enjoyable, and not just because I took it all at a very slow ambling pace - it was also a great, logical loop around this section of upland Yorkshire. A pleasant evening with Peter and Jez in the Fleece pub in Haworth, a night sleeping in the car outside the YHA, and an early start in claggy, misty and wet conditions. The route leaves Haworth to head up to Top Withens of Wuthering Heights fame: along good tracks over the misty spine of Wadsworth Moor and along a series of lakes and reservoirs (Walshaw Dean to Widdop) skirting Widdop Moor to the north. After some road, increasing the pace in heavy rain, it was back on the Pennine Bridleway way out to the west with Burnley in sight below. Boggy underfoot after all the recent snow; big drifts rapidly melting. In Lancashire now, perhaps? Round Hurstwood and Clough reservoirs to Worsthorne Moor and another road section (the long causeway) after a feed. This was only about 13 miles in; I was feeling OK but a bit more tired than I should have been given the gentle pace. A hotdog followed, with fried onions and mustard! I regretted this immediately - stomach pain, predictably enough - but it did help maintain energy for the hard, boggy and rocky section that came next, through the mist above the upper Calder Valley. Some lovely little side valleys with wisps of mist, drystone walls and snow drifts, then it was back down to the valleys again in Todmorden. Tricky navigation through the streets to gain a very steep climb which led to the much higher village of Mankinholes and another feed station (cheese pastie this time!). This was 20 miles in, and I knew that I would struggle in from here given lack of mileage in training. First, though, I had a second wind and really enjoyed the run through the lower moor below Stoodley Pike with the mist clearing and beautiful views. The climb up the Pike is steep and tiring, the top a huge Victorian monument looming out of thick clag. Then comes another descent back to the valley, arduous now with steep tarmac all the way down to Hebden Bridge, where more tortuous ginnels and steep steps lead to the brutal climb up to cobbled Heptonstall. The fatigue then kicks in for the long run in through great scenery (although my ultra conservative slow approach paid dividends in the sense that I wasn't too tired) taking in the wild moorland above Oxenhope (which I've visited by bike along the Tour route) to Penistone Hill and, eventually, Haworth again.

Cwm Cneifion winter climbs

Crag: Cwm Cneifion/Idwal
Routes: Nameless Stream (wIII:sol), Cneifion Stream (wIII:sec/sol)
On the one hand, this was unlucky: several days of superb conditions with some very rarely formed routes up for grabs ended just before we arrived at Ogwen in low cloud and driving rain. On the other hand, we salvaged the only morsels realistically achieveable in the few hours available. We didn't arrive until lunchtime, by which time the rain was hammering down and the snow around Idwal melting very rapidly: temperatures had climbed to 5C and looked set to rise further, not promising. All the water-ice lines had formed around Idwal - the snow in Ogwen had remained light (in contrast to the Clwydians) and unconsolidated throughout the cold snap associated with the 'Beast from the East'. However, they were all rapidly melting and looked grim, so we felt that Cwm Cneifion would give us the best chance of salvaging something, as it often does. Taking the steep path up, we decided to look at the lower Nameless Stream which seemed to be quite fat from a distance (the stream which drops to Idwal from the lip of Cwm Cneifion). This was a great decision as despite some meltiness, it remained very well formed water-ice and gave a splendid route up into the upper cwm. Even better, I don't think I've ever done it before (although I could be wrong, it did seem vaguely familiar). Some surprisingly steep rises and an excellent section of snow ice up a curved runnel towards the top. The turf was well frozen too: a fine grade III watercourse in surprisingly good nick, and a fun way into the upper cwm. As usual, Cwm Cneifion itself was another world - the driving rain gave way to snow and the upper cwm was white and thick. Lower down, we did the excellent icefall marking the start of the Cneifion Stream. Dave led a nice 30m pitch which took three seperate steps of good grade III ice, more solid than the lower route. We then continued up another pitch, easier and slabby and walked into the always atmospheric upper cwm as heavy snow fell and Clogwyn Du was barely visible through the thick mist. A very wet descent back to Ogwen ensued: pouring rain lower down combined with the snowmelt.

Clwydian run

It's been a few years since we've seen head-height drifts in the Clwydians and even by the standards of 2010 or 2013 a lot of snow has fallen higher up recently. A memorable Collie run on Friday, chest-deep drifts by the fences and heavy snowfall as we drank our pints: a tricky drive home. This morning we ran from Mold past two cars abandoned in drifts to Moel Findeg in thick mist, then over Bryn Alyn to a magical Nercwys forest, thick snow and draped trees. The road back had been ploughed, with the snow over head height on each side. Several good long runs recently, in preparation (inadequate, as ever) for next weekend's Haworth Hobble.

Havana run

A run along the legendary Malecon: an essential addition to my four-night stay in Havana after enjoying the seafront ambience on a number of occasions. 'The world's longest sofa' say some, although when I finally got round to running it a fairly ferocious easterly made it unusually quiet, with spray and flying sand especially out towards Vedado. The outward leg, past the famous Hotel Nacional, was a delight, with a strong tailwind. The return into the headwind was a different matter: a real struggle that reminded me of home and any number of border league fixtures along any number of North Wales and Wirral proms!

Vinales walk/run

I was keen to get out into the Cuban countryside, and Vinales - in the western Pinar del Rio province - seemed the best option, albeit a fairly predictable one. Its landscape is famous, and echoes parts of southern China and Thailand with its limestone spires rising from flat valley floors. These are called 'mogotes' locally, and my first view of the valley was a memorable one as my bus stopped near Los Jazmines, an old hotel with a fabulous view, still lit by the morning sun. The mogotes tower above the flat valley with tight 'gorges' radiating outwards - and in the foreground lush palms (the endemic mountain palms) and fig trees. Beyond, the low Sierra de los Organos mountains. Later that first day, I walked to the Cueva de la Vacha, admiring the superb rock scenery with some great looking routes going through the tufa pillars and stalactites, even meeting a French climbing pair looking for easy options (the only climbers I saw). The potential for new routes is vast. Today, I explored various corners of the region culminating in a jog from the Mirador near Los Jazmines down to the valley floor where I navigated a complex series of farm tracks through the tobacco plantations to emerge at the road below the impressive mogote at the head of the Dos Hermanos valley. From here I jogged up to the hideous eyesore known as the 'mural of prehistory' before getting the bus back to town after a long, dusty, sweaty wait. Refuelled with a cubanito, fresh lime juice and fried red snapper.

Oswestry XC

Race: Oswestry XC (North Wales cross country league, race 5)
Time/Position: 43.16 (37th from 142)
It's been a tough season, with some challenging conditions (quagmire at Bangor, storm at Llandudno, sleet in Baschurch). Nasty again today, but at least the sleet had stopped when we set off. Sadly, I went into meltdown on the second lap and recorded by far my worst result of the season, 10 places down and struggling desperately; but I managed to hold on to the 3rd V45 slot overall (same as last year). Similarly, Buckley just held on to win the Veteran's Team prize for the season, possibly for the first time ever (2nd team overall).