Arenig run

Peaks: Arenig Fawr
Area: Arenig, Eryri
Yet another diabolical day of driving sleet and gales. A real sense of deja vu as Peter and I set off from the quarry car park in conditions that were, if anything, even worse than on the Carneddau this time last week. At least the icy wind helped us on the long run along the road to the start of the old race route, which branches off up a track to Llyn Arenig. This was hard work from the start, and we were already cold and soaked by the time we got to the bothy. This provided welcome shelter for us to get some more layers on, and as a result the long climb up the ridge was a little more comfortable (relatively speaking). The sleet turned to wet snow as we gained height, and the wind continued to howl through the crags and into us. Very poor visibility as we jogged along the weaving path which fortunately skirts below the main ridge line and was therefore relatively sheltered. The summit was no place to rest, so we pelted down to the north on a rough bearing to make a little traverse - eventually emerging in boggy wilderness above the quarry and negotiating our way down a steep gully (a temporary waterfall) to the quarry. The cloud base was so low that we were almost still navigating when we reached the car. It was still hammering down as we left: the forecast clearance never materialised.

Jubilee Plunge

Race: Jubilee Plunge downhill fell race (2.2m/-1361ft)
Time/Position: 12.07 (10th from 75)
This unique race produces a level of muscle damage out of all proportion to it's short length and duration: no doubt a sign of my inflexibility! It's a very exciting event, though, albeit one that I'm never likely to do well on. A very pleasant trot up from Llangynhafal with Jez, Huw, John and others - under beautiful blue skies - to the eccentrically positioned start on top of Moel Famau (with a holiday crowd looking on with curiosity). An insanely fast start along the OD path to the north: then the best route to the finish at the Golden Lion pub breaks off left down narrow and exciting tracks. I then took a different route, contouring the hillside directly down to the gate at the bottom of the valley. Sadly, thick bracken makes this no quicker than the normal route and, after a slow vault of the gate, I found myself further behind the small group of runners in front. Try as I might, I couldn't close the gap: 10 seconds separated fifth place and me in tenth. The beer in the Goldie was as good as ever.

Round the Walls race

Race: Chester Round the Walls ('4m')
Time/Position: 22.10 (18th from 450)
The hardest frost of the winter, probably the first truly icy morning since April, meaning that yet again I was unable to sample the full event: the third time this has happened. But if the Walls were out because of the ice, I had already assumed the Roodee would be waterlogged. This was indeed the case, but whereas last year the race avoided it as a result, this year four aquatic laps were planned as an alternative to the icy walls. In my post-Xmas haste I had only packed my racing flats, and the slip-sliding nightmare that ensued was richly deserved. Really struggled to keep my footing, and longed for my fell shoes to give some grip. Nice short family outing, though, an opportunity to get some fresh air.

Carneddau run

Peaks: Moel Wnion
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
Our scheduled pre-Christmas Snowdonia run precisely coincided with the worst of an unusually deep depression and wild storm. It all made for a memorable outing, albeit far shorter than planned. Peter, Jez and I left Aber in torrential rain, benefiting from the shelter of the village and woods until we emerged towards the top of the tarmac start of the Foel Fras race route. Here, the wind was gusting to 80-90mph: and was directly in our face as we skirted Foel Dduarth heading up to our 'bad weather option' of Llyn Anafon. We were blown over a few times as we attempted to 'jog' into the upper valley - memories of the legendary OMM in 2008 and many other occasions - before giving up and heading back down to the car park. We then adopted another default plan, heading to Aber Falls. An astounding volume of water at the Falls, seemingly a wall of spray reminiscent of Yosemite. Quite exhilerating, though, and the rain eased a little as we ran along the top of the valley. As we descended back to the coast, Peter suggested trying to get up Moel Wnion on the assumption that we may get a tailwind. This worked, and we ploughed up the sheltered Afon Gam stream valley before ploughing up the boggy slopes of Wnion in a crosswind. After sheltering in the cairn to give some respite from the constant battering, we enjoyed a superb fast descent (with tailwind) down the Foel Fras race route climax. Dried off with a pint in the Albion.

Wigg Island Border League

Race: Wigg Island, Runcorn 5.5m (Border League Race 2)
Time/Position: 31.36 (14th from 282)
Must admit I'd never heard of Wigg Island before this race. Despite the post-industrial surroundings of the Mersey and Runcorn Bridge, it's been converted into a nature reserve and was a fine new venue for Helsby's border league fixture. Fewer fast young lads at the sharp end of the race, so my finishing position was a little more respectable than at Tattenhall. That said, I didn't feel particularly good for the three and a half laps, struggling to hold my pace especially on the short sharp climb at the far end of the island.

Cardington Cracker fell race

Race: Cardington Cracker (15k/800m/AM)
Time/Position: 1.27.56 (23rd from 259)
After feeling so awful on last week's race, I decided to go down to Shropshire with Huw and Andy at the last minute for this race - just to see if I felt any better. The answer, sadly, was no - and I came in a full five minutes slower than the time I recorded in 2011. The usual big field set off in perfect conditions, still and cool, from the chocolate-box village of Cardington. I set off steadily, and felt reasonably good for the ultra steep first climb up the Lawley: best to crawl on all fours at times! After the fast descent, I started to slow slightly on the second big climb up the Stretton side of Caer Caradog. The descent from here to the woods below Hope Bowdler hill is superb, and in 2011 I remember flying along this final section which takes in one more climb up Hope Bowdler then a long undulating ridge (the kind of terrain that is fantastic if you are going well and picking up places - the opposite was the case today!). Towards the end I creaked into some kind of life, but it was far too late. This really is a superb route though, and a great event.

Wrexham Cross Country

Race: Wrexham XC (North Wales Cross Country League race 3)
Time/Position: 33:50 (41st from 143)
A dreadful performance, around 20 places down on my two previous outings on this course. As usual, I've already missed too many of the North Wales series to count, but thought I'd try to help the team on this - the usual fast and flat four lap course around playing fields on the eastern edge of Wrexham. In contrast to last year's icy rain, is was cold and dry today: but I started to struggle on the second lap then lost a dramatic amount of time and places on a very tough final lap. Really suffered, despite the extreme flatness of the course: my worst race for some time.

Tattenhall Border League

Race: Tattenhall '10k' (Border League Race 1)
Time/Position: 35.11 (24th from 339)
Worst finishing position in the league for two years, but rather suspect that this was an unusually strong field - as the season openers often are. Lost quite a lot of ground on the steep double climb up to the Peckforton Hills and only really started picking up the pace in the last couple of 'false flat' miles. Felt quite good towards the end but couldn't quite close the gap to a small group containing Jez, Darren et al. Alongside Caernarfon, this is probably the most scenic, and best, BL course: 200m shy of 10k, but the hills make up the shortfall!

Ras Rhobell Fawr

Race: Rhobell Fawr fell race (10.3k/600m/AM)
Time/Position: 60:45 (3rd from 43 [1st V40])
On a soft Autumn day the scenery around Dolgellau is exquisite, so this was an excellent day trip topped off with a superb leg-loosening jog around the Precipice Walk. Sadly, I didn't really get going on the race itself until the final descent down the tracks and paths from Bwlch Goriwared, but luckily this part of the descent favoured a bit of road speed so I was able to hold off the challenge from a few young lads to hold onto third position. It's a great race: up muddy forest tracks above the strangely named Afon Babi to gain the open hillside at the Bwlch. I moved into third position quite soon, but didn't feel good on the main 1500ft climb: worse, I took some awful lines after the bog of Ffynnon Sion - heading away from the wall too early, meaning I went up the western forepeak and several other steep knolls unnecessarily. A young lad passed me near the cairn, but I regained third as I tried to take the best line down to the right: I lost my nerve, though, unsure of the route so retreated to the 'handrail' of the wall, taking more inefficient lines back down to the bwlch. I was so slow that three younger runners were just behind at Bwlch Goriwared, but I was just able to hold them off as I finally sprang into some kind of life for this final fast section back to Llanfachreth. Very wet and muddy underfoot! I ended up third, and first Veteran. After soup and prizes in the village hall, Adair and I set off for a superbly enjoyable warm-down around the famous Precipice Walk, which I last did with Kate after Ras y Gader some years ago. A violent hailstorm cleared as we started off, and the autumnal colours under dark skies gave fabulous, ever-changing views back up to Rhobell Fawr, then over Coed y Brenin, then Mawddach and Cader Idris.

Abergele 5m

Race: Abergele 5m (North Wales Championships)
Time/Position: 28.57 (6th from 187 [3rd V40])
Glancing at my watch with 400m to go, I thought I was on for a decent time here - at the very least a PB for the course. But, weirdly, I ended up 6 seconds slower than my 2011 and 2012 times and a minute down on my 5m PB. There is something rather strange about this course, which is notoriously tough with one long, gradual hill for the first two miles and one short, very sharp climb at the three mile point. The strange part is that I always end up with virtually the same time, whether I feel good or bad during the race. It's an excellent, and well organised event though, which always incorporates the North Wales championships and, as such, tends to attract a strong and competitive field especially among the Veterans. Could only manage bronze today, to add to last year's silver and 2011's gold in the champs - but, more positively, 6th is my best ever overall position at this race. There was a bit of a headwind at times today, which may account for the lost seconds.

British Fell Relays

Race: British fell relay championships, Llanberis (Leg 2, 15k, 1000m)
Time/Position: 1.33 (40th from 180)
Peaks: Moel Cynghorion, Foel Goch, Foel Gron, Moel Eilio
Buckley's third appearance at this great team event - which this year came to the hills west of Llanberis and was therefore virtually home territory. As usual, our small club struggled to get a team together and once we did it became tricky to assign runners to legs. In the end, Eddie set off on the fast first leg for his first ever fell race - and the rain began in earnest as Simon and I waited for him in the holding pen. Unlike last year, when I took the navigation leg, this year I was on the long (15k) 'pairs' leg across the Moel Eilio ridge. In another contrast with Church Stretton and Llangynhafal (our two previous relay champs) the 'HQ' this year was the Glyn Rhonwy quarry and a flat expanse of slate waste. Slightly grim, but good views of the hills and the approaching weather systems sweeping down from Pen y Pass! Strong winds soon flattened the big club's gazebos - but our 3ft high tent remained intact throughout. We got a real drenching as we waited for Eddie, then set out for a very fast initial 5k southwards along the paths west of Llanberis towards Hebron station. This flat, fast stuff is more my terrain than Simon's, but it was all very muddy today - flowing water at several points along the paths. The brutal climb up the northern slopes of Cynghorion came immediately afterwards - it was a matter of getting my head down and trying to stay with Simon's relentless uphill pace. Hands came in useful! Once we reached the checkpoint on the summit, the wind tore into us, and this made for tough running along the rest of the ridge in poor viz. Painful horizontal hail and 70mph gusts made this a classic test. We did OK, and seemed to be passing a few teams, although our finishing position was a bit disappointing. I know the ground here fairly well, and was looking forward to the long final descent. Simon eats this stuff for breakfast, but I kept with him reasonably well and we plunged down the final very muddy slopes (a waist-deep quagmire, perfect for spectating schadenfreude as runners plunged in!) to hand over to Huw and Dave for leg 3.

Flintshire 10k

Race: Flintshire 10k (Mold)
Time/Position: 37.07 (7th from 495 [1st V40])
It was fairly obvious that this was never going to be a PB course: a new route which is essentially an extension of our Border League 5 miler. Perhaps best described as a fell race on tarmac, I reckon it must be close to 600ft of climbing squeezed into 3k. I thought it might suit me, and had gone surprisingly well in my first intervals session since March last Tuesday, so seemed to have some form. Given the steepness of the hill, I started conservatively from Mold then just tried to maintain the effort and keep it going for the very steep (17%?) slopes beyond Nercwys. From here, the race turns back down towards Nercwys but remains 'fell-like' with an equally steep and slippery descent. The rain got a little heavier as myself and Gary had an excellent battle throughout the run-in - couldn't quite catch the two lads in front. I started to feel a stitch developing on the fast descent, but it never became crippling as we rejoined the normal BL run-in back to Mold. I last did this race three years ago (when I also won my category), but think the new route gives it a bit of character! At the prize giving, Buckley won first team and I got first V40, despite the fact that I was three minutes slower than my PB.

Rab Mountain Marathon

Race: Rab Mountain Marathon, day two
Peaks: Grasmoor, Sand Hill, Outerside (Derwent Fells, Lake District)
Time/Position: 180pts in 4:29 (17th from 213 [2nd V40])
I ate my porridge by the light of the moon above the High Stile ridge, keen to make an early start. As with yesterday, I didn't really consider many route choices as the day provided an opportunity to head up some peaks I've never done before. One of these was Grasmoor, and I had already resigned myself to starting the day with the 2500ft slog to the top - not because I felt it was the best route choice, but because I've never done it before and the weather was again so good that it seemed wrong not to enjoy the tops (but when I found out what the prize for first V40 was I wished I'd been a little less romantic and a little more hard-headed about the route planning!). The first control was at a hidden sheepfold in Cinderdale Beck: and rather than slog through the heather like a number of other runners were doing, I took the path further south and contoured in, before contouring back out through the gruelling heather to the Lad Hows ridge up Grasmoor. This is relentless, and a strong headwind (that had woken me several times last night) didn't help one bit: a brutal way to start the day, and all for 25 points at the summit cairn. Wonderful views compensated, with the same clarity of light that we all enjoyed yesterday. I felt a little tired running down to Coledale Hause - completely new territory for me - the contoured too high above Eel Crag, meaning I had to drop down awkward terrain to dib the next checkpoint in a sheepfold. A tiring climb, hot already, back to the Hause and up Sand Hill (a subsidiary summit to Hopegill Head. Then I left the crowds behind for the excellent ridge NE over a forepeak towards Grisedale Pike. No need to go up this, as the control was hidden deep in remote Grisedale Gill to the North East. So a long and trackless traverse past the tourist path led down into this unfrequented valley for another remote and demanding checkpoint. Draining, very awkward terrain then made for snail-like progress back up to the Grisedale Pike ridge and all the way down to the 200m contour at the bottom of characterless Coledale Beck. Then came the crux of the entire weekend - a desperate and somewhat pointless slog direct up the northerly slopes of Outerside to get the control on the summit. Not a sensible route choice and a rather demoralising experience. Still, it meant I could take a long contouring descent on a narrow and intermittent sheep trod to get more points below Causey Pike before a short heathery climb to the little spur of Rowling End. I had at least half an hour to play with, and could have got a 20 pointer in Rigg Beck, but was quite tired so played it far too safe and descended to Stonycroft Gill and the finish above Stair. Inevitably, I lost a few places due to poor route planning and over-caution today - but it hardly mattered in the context of a great weekend, the 7th consecutive year this event has experienced benign, dry weather.

Rab Mountain Marathon

Race: Rab Mountain Marathon, day one
Peaks: Catbells, Maiden Moor, Grey Knotts, Fleetwith Pike, Haystacks, High Crag, High Stile
Time/Position: 310pts in 5:31 (13th from 213 [2nd V40])
After missing the Rab last year, I was keen to give it a good bash again, particularly after my disastrous showing on home soil in the Carneddau in 2011. This turned out to be a magical weekend of stunning weather and fantastic running in the most beautiful corner of the Lakes, with superbly challenging route planning and the usual low-key atmosphere: my 5th appearance at this great event. The HQ was at Newlands Adventure Centre, which I'd last visited 25 years ago to the day on a Manchester University geography field trip, Fresher's Week 1988! After a good night's sleep in the back of the car, and a large breakfast, I set off from Skelgill: it was a beautiful clear morning, so I didn't really think much about route choice - I just wanted to get on the ridge as soon as possible just to enjoy it. As such, a quick slog up and over the Catbells ridge revealed the famous view of Derwent Water. Possibly the best view in England, so I continued south along the ridge to savour it a little more, over Catbells to Hause Gate - fantastic easy running - before contouring round (slightly unnecessary) to another control below Maiden Moor. From the summit, I picked a good and fast line down Narrow Moor to a hidden control well down the Borrowdale side of High Spy, at Nitting Haws. I remember struggling to this point into a ferocious headwind during the infamous OMM of 2008. From here, a long traverse on tricky terrain led to Launchy Tarn, before an easy leg picked up more points at the little quarry familiar from the Borrowdale fell race final climb up Dale Head. Fast running down to Honister Pass, then up an excellent hidden trod to gain big points at a high knoll above Seatoller: very distant from start and finish! From here I took another efficient line SW, spying out a narrow ledge that traversed diagonally above Raven Crag (Gillercombe Buttress) to gain the Grey Knotts/Brandreth ridge. Nobody else took this line, which had some scrambling, but it landed me bang on the control at a little pond. It was all going so well, something had to go wrong: and it did so immediately. I didn't properly plan the next section: so dropped down to a control at Dubs Bottom before embarking on the draining climb direct up to the summit of Fleetwith Pike. I had planned to go directly across to High Crag, but the height loss and sheer steepness rendered this completely ludicrous, so I effectively had to retrace my steps before picking up the path over Haystacks. Clearly, I did this section in completely the wrong order. I was furious with myself, and reckon it cost me between 20 and 40 points. Still, the traverse of Haystacks was a delight, one of Lakeland's finest corners. It was very hot now, and I stripped to the waist before dibbing the control at exquisite Blackbeck Tarn. Tiring lumpy terrain leads over the crowded summit of Haystacks to Scarth Gap, before the very steep climb up High Crag. I've been this way at least twice before, once in a ferocious blizzard, and knew it would be the crux - especially in this heat. But the views of Pillar are superb, and a 40 point checkpoint awaited me on the summit. I got to High Stile efficiently, the highpoint of the ridge, then headed for home directly down a very steep gully on Chapel Crags to Bleaberry Tarn. I was tired now after five hours of running, so was pleased to take the zigzag path east of Sour Milk Gill to Buttermere. Then it was 3-4k back along the roads and a bridleway to the overnight camp at Cinderdale Common. I found myself in 13th place overnight, second Veteran: just 20 points behind the leader, about what I lost due to my stupid route planning error. The camp was in a lovely spot above Crummock Water: hot and sunny, with superb views back up to High Stile.

Swansea Bay 10k

Race: Swansea Bay 10k (Welsh Championships)
Time/Position: 36.05 (80th from 3000 [8th V40])
Not even a season's best time, which was the minimum target today: my third appearance for North Wales in the national 10k championships. Instead, this quickly turned into my worst performance in the vest and I couldn't even break 36 minutes on a flat course. We'd stayed overnight at Steve's in Llanwrthwl, and not got much sleep, which didn't help. I was also inclined to blame last week's Pedol Peris epic, but the real reason is probably just lack of sufficient training and intervals in particular - having not trained with Buckley since March. The Swansea Bay 10k is a massive and excellent event, though, possibly even bigger than the Cardiff 10k, with over 3000 runners going from St Helens along the road to Mumbles then back along the seafront to Swansea. Conditions were almost ideal, still and cloudy, although it did become hot and humid on the return leg (for me anyway!). A fast start saw the first 3k covered in 10.30, and a gentle hill led to the edge of Mumbles and the 5k mark in 17.35 or so. If I'd maintained this pace, I'd have managed a respectable time, but although I initially started to gain on some team-mates I struggled again after the 8k mark and was really suffering at the finish. Not a great performance, but it's always an honour to run for the region and the event itself was really good with a big race atmosphere and excellent support from across Wales.

Craig Rhiw Goch climbing

Crag: Craig Rhiw Goch, Lledr Valley
Routes: Reign (S:led), Congl (VS 4c:sec), Congl Direct Finish (HVS 5b:sec), The Riparian (E2 5c:sec)
A small but exquisitely formed crag on the banks of the Lledr. I've wanted to do these routes for years, but have never got round to it, partly because the crag is not the easiest venue to find. Once you work it out, though, it's just a few minutes from the road, which makes its unpopularity even more baffling than other nearby venues like Crafnant and Swallow Falls. I imagine it's something to do with its absence from modern selective guidebooks (although it is in my old tried and tested Williams guide). We only had a couple of hours spare late on, but that was enough time to do the routes, although it would have been nice to linger as it is a delightful spot in oak woodland right next to a beautiful stretch of the Lledr, a constant rushing presence. Reign is a very pleasant Severe, but the first few feet are a bit dirty now - and the rock was greasy after recent rain. But a steep 30ft wall is then taken on excellent holds to a little spike, then a ledge on the left before a juggy rib leads up to a final slab. A neat little route which, to repeat a theme from this summer's esoteric climbing trips, needs more traffic. I had to clear the mud from cracks to place gear higher up. Congl takes the obvious central groove, with a tricky move up the initial wall to gain a narrow slab which merges with the main groove and gives good easy climbing to a steepening. After one thought-provoking move which needs careful footwork, a ledge is reached. Vic traversed left on the normal finish, but I was able to take the excellent direct finish up the steep continuation groove. This is not as hard as the given grade (VS+ 5a I'd say) but gives a fine steep finish on small positive holds. The Riparian is even better - a superb 100ft pitch with varied technical climbing. It is never very strenuous, but absorbing throughout and a feasible lead. The initial steep slab is delightful, never overly obvious, but little flakey holds and neat thoughtful footwork allows the thin groove above to be gained. The crack here is slim but positive and leads to a right-leaning crack which I assumed was the crux. Instead, it goes easily to a resting foot ledge before a slim groove leads to two pockets. Then comes the crux, near the top: a fierce pull on the pockets with little ripples for the feet gains a good jug and easy finishing groove. Immaculate climbing. Then it was off to Cadole for the Friday night Clwydian run, followed by a rest before Sunday's Welsh 10k championships in Swansea.

Pedol Peris

Race: Peris Horseshoe fell race (18m/8500ft/AL)
Peaks: Elidir Fawr, Y Garn, Glyder Fawr, Lliwedd, Snowdon, Moel Cynghorion

Time/Position: 4.13.16 (55th from 200)

The hardest Welsh mountain race of all - some explanation for the fact that it's been five years since my last attempt at this event. Sadly, I didn't have anywhere near the right amount of hill mileage in my legs for this, but gave it a bash as it was part of the Welsh and British championships this year. As such, the quality and size of the field was remarkable and the pace very high as we set off - rain clearing - from Llanberis. This is one of the unique things about the sport - unlike even the highest profile 10k, here you are competing directly with the very best in a relatively small field. As a result, you get instantly blown away by superb athletes and it puts you firmly back in your rightful place (55th in my case!) The sheer scale of this event meant I deliberately took it as easy as was feasible on the inclines through the quarries, always atmospheric, to Elidir Fach. Skirted this, then took the longer line to gain the misty summit of Elidir in 48 minutes from Llanberis. Superb running around the head of the cwm as all the mist cleared away from the Glyderau. This is the route's highlight, best enjoyed when fresh! I slowed for the sharp haul up Y Garn, then tried to keep a steady but sustainable pace for the rough descent down to Llyn y Cwn and the steep climb up Glyder Fawr. Although it was taking a while to find my rhythm on the climbs, once I did I started to feel reasonably strong and I got to Pen y Pass via the long 'red spot' descent from Glyder Fawr (missing the 'short cut' from the glacis and wasting more time) in 1.56. The real race then begins: in 2008 I suffered badly from dehydration over Lliwedd and had no wish to repeat the experience. This time I was more cautious, jogging the Miner's Track to Llyn Llydaw with a full bottle of water, then scrambling over Lliwedd, trying to keep pace with Adrian from Eryri across Bwlch y Saethau and directly up the rocky East ridge into the mist on Yr Wyddfa. The summit of Snowdon was as crowded and surreal as ever, and I dodged the crowds from the cairn and leapt onto the railway to ensure I didn't miss the turn for the Snowdon Ranger path. Indeed, if the race just descended to Llanberis from Snowdon it would be relatively easy - but it doesn't, so the crux is this brutal final leg. I fell quite badly on the screes of the Ranger path - the momentum meant an inevitable somersault with head-on-scree contact. Never pleasant, but I managed to minimise the blow and continued, a little shaken. A painfully slow descent and tough climb back over Moel Cynghorion - now out of the mist - in 3.47. Had 13 mins left to break 4 hours, which wasn't going to happen. Instead I got even slower down to Maesgwm and through the deep stream, developing an appalling stitch for the final 'fast' run through Coed Victoria to Llanberis. This lost me even more time as I was reduced to a crippled jog, removing bumbag and bent double in an attempt to relieve the pain. Then came a desperate effort to recover in time to represent North Wales at the starkly contrasting Welsh 10k champs next week.

Gorbio climbing

Crag: La Balme, Gorbio, Provence
Routes: De Bouche a Oreille (f5:led), Signe Ascendant (f5+:led), Le Bonheur Est Dans le Pre (f5+:sec), Les Mots Pour le Dire (f5+:sec), La Lyceene (f6a:sec), Tango Passion (f5:led), Peut-etre (f6a+:led)
Just another Provencal venue with beautiful views in every direction, a tranquil ambience, and an abundance of three-star classic climbs up a wonderland of perfect sculpted limestone features. We liked it! A tortuous road leads from La Turbie round the edge of Monaco's grotesque excess and up into another world. Gorbio is a perfect 'village perche', protected from tourists by its awkward location. We parked above the village and walked into the crag through small allotments and copses. The crag is one of many at the head of this typical Provencal limestone valley - and is wonderfully tranquil. We had a few hours before the sun hit the face, so got to work immediately. The crag is characterised by a series of slabby ramplines that head diagonally leftwards and break the other theme of unrelenting steepness. The limestone features are just beautiful and lend themselves to stunning climbing up these lines of weakness. De Bouche a Oreille was a perfect example: it took a sort of 'tube' of waterworn limestone with a steep wall plunging away to the left and another curving above the ramp to the right. It gave a remarkably aesthetic climb, on beautiful cream and grey shaded limestone, using little pockets and tiny pinched holds to make progress up the slab. A wonderful start, but eclipsed by the massive Signe Ascendant to its right, which gave a monster 35m+ E1 pitch up another ramp line. This started more steeply, up a very awkward vertical groove which gives access to the main slab. This gave quite extraordinary climbing: tiny edges led to a flake crack which soon closed, necessitating a series of heart-stopping moves left to the very edge of the slab poised above a gigantic overhanging wall. For the grade, a remarkable position, very exposed considering this was just a single pitch route! Very delicate climbing up the edge led to another flake which allows you to move back right to the lower-off. Le Bonheur, the similarly graded route up the centre of the same slab, goes more easily up to the central flake crack. This is quite positive until it closes up, then a very hard move up the blank slab gains the continuation of the line: a little more disjointed that Signe Ascendant but another three-star classic. Vic then led Les Mot Pour le Dire further right. This is a shorter route, 20m+, which takes a sharp rib initially before a sequence of superb technical moves up an inclined wall, quite reasonable but sustained and thought-provoking up tiny stalactites and pockets. The quality of the hard, grey limestone was remarkable: immaculate climbing, as was the superb groove of La Lyceene to the right. Tufa pillars and flowstone features: despite the 6a grade, this seemed one of the easier routes on the crag. By now the sun was well and truly on the face, and it was getting pretty uncomfortable. We made our way through the trees to the far end of the crag, and both led Tango Passion, an easier and shorter route up three distinct walls, then Peut-etre as a suitable climax to the trip. After an initial wall, this takes a steep and very technical wall on tiny flake holds and small pockets. Probably the hardest sequence of the trip, 6a+, around UK E2 we thought, coinciding with the hottest weather: it was like inching up a vertical frying pan. I had to steady myself whilst clipping the bolts sadly, partly as a result of the extreme humidity, but we both made the lead before retreating to the medieval alleyways of the village and, later, a well earned dip in the Med before our flight home.

La Turbie climbing

Crag: La Dalle a l'Oiseau, La Turbie, Monaco
Routes: La San Nom (f4+:led), Le Rappel (f4+:sec), La Tribu de Chantal (f5:sec), Le Diedre des Limaces (f4+:sec), Plien la Vue Directe (f5:sec), La Radine (f6a:led), Combien ca Coute? (f5:sec), UNR (f4:sec), L'Envolee de Jeanine (f5:sec), Diedre de la Republique (f5+:sec), La Dextre (f5:led)
After a night in the centre of Cuneo, I was desperate to salvage something from the trip after missing out on the main objective yesterday. However, prospects looked bleak as it started to rain in the main piazza of Cuneo as we left the hotel. This became absolutely torrential as we crossed into France after the Tende tunnel, so we were forced to abandon our designs on the granite crags above St Dalmas and Sospel. Instead, we drove all the way to La Turbie above Monaco in a remarkable deluge which luckily  stopped as we arrived at the car park poised above Monaco's stadium. After walking down the zigzags that lead to La Dalle a l'Oiseau, just one of the many crags that litter the hillside above Monaco, the sun came out and the rock was miraculously bone dry. Still desperate to salvage the trip, I went straight for the classic line of the crag: the soaring groove line of La San Nom, which despite its French grade gives a superb 35m long British VS pitch. Pocketed slabs give way to the main groove, which has two steeper sections taken on big holds, then some easy bridging, before a steep crux move just before the top to gain a final juggy wall. A tremendous pitch, neatly sustained at a fairly gentle standard - but interesting throughout. Le Rappel is another long pitch up superbly positive pockets and flakes, while La Tribu de Chantal is a little harder - we did the top half, which finishes up an awkward prow via some tricky moves. Vic then led the obvious corner/diedre to the left, which gives some polished bridging and is rather overshadowed by the arete to its left taken by the superb Plien la Vue Directe. This is a fantastic, photogenic line - quite elegant but rather polished especially higher up. Easy slabs lead to a small platform, then delicate moves up the crest of the vertical arete with stunning views out over Cap Ferrat to distant Esterel. The sun was now warming things up quite dramatically, and I was feeling reasonably strong (by my pathetic standards) so upped the grade with a lead of La Radine on the right of the crag. This gave sustained and excellent 6a climbing, quite technical up a steep series of positive but tiny edges to gain a pocket. This just took two fingers, and a steep pull gained bigger holds and a short easy slab. A final groove led to the top: great stuff and another satisfying, clean lead, arguably British E2. The other routes up this wall were lengthy pitches in a similar vein but much easier (L'Envolee took the crack separating the slab with the steeper walls to the left). Vic then led another obvious classic corner line, the polished Diedre de la Republique, with tricky bridging and a surprisingly strenuous and awkward crux right at the top. We were tiring after hundreds of metres of steep and sustained climbing, but I wanted one more lead so went for the unheralded but excellent La Dextre. This looked scrappy from below, but actually gave a very varied and long pitch, up steep pocketed limestone walls to gain a layback before another wall led to the top. Ran back up the steep zigzags to the car by way of hopelessly inadequate training for next Saturday's Peris Horseshoe race!

Viso Mozzo

Peak: Viso Mozzo (3019m/9,904ft)
Area: Cottian Alps, Piemonte, Italy
This peak is completely overshadowed by Monte Viso and was a very disappointing consolation prize for me after abandoning the main climb. The day had started encouragingly after a 4am breakfast and an efficient start under clear starlit skies. All very atmospheric, particularly as we reached the chains and via ferrata section that leads up a series of steep ridges to gain Passo Sangatte. As the first glimmers of light allowed us to see the onward route, the mist came down around the upper cwm. Worse, I was suffering from a nasty stomach bug and had managed very little sleep. After some half-hearted slogging up the base of the cwm I decided to call it a day and - after months of planning - retreated back down the chains to the hut, after which I climbed up Viso Mozzo in disconsolate mood. I did, however, have the bonus of some stunning photographic scenes as the mist cleared on a number of occasions. Spectacular views up mist-draped rock walls, thousands of feet high, along with several brockenspectres as the sun backlit my shadow on the clouds below. I sauntered down to Pian del Rei where I walked up the neighbouring valleys and bathed in the source of the Po as I waited for Vic.

Pian del Rei-Rifugio Quintino Sella

Mist enveloped the car park as we arrived at Pian del Rei, so we enjoyed a very cool walk-in after a hot morning's cragging. Indeed, we felt quite at home up here - as the valleys above Crissalo have a distinctively Welsh feel: at least they did in these conditions. The walk-in to the Sella hut is lengthy but nowhere near as steep as Wednesday's slog to the Remondino hut. A few zigzags lead to a stream crossing then tranquil Lago Fiorenza. Vic and I kept to our own pace, and just above the lake I saw my first salamander, the endemic Salamandra Lanzei, which only lives in this corner of the Cottian Alps - an extraordinary sight, completely black and completely tame. I went on to see several more during the walk-in. A short climb up a narrow valley led to a long, looping traverse around the stunning, turquoise Lago Chiaretto. I was completely alone in the landscape now, the mist draping the walls of Viso to the right and the wedge-shaped Viso Mozzo directly in front: all quite dramatic. I waited for Vic and we continued upwards into the mist, weaving through some hostile moraines (dozens of alpine accentors, alpine chough and water pipits here) to finally gain views of the Lago Grande del Viso and the hut, which just materialised out of the mist. Rather chilly as we arrived, but a convivial evening followed, with superb roast beef and red wine as the rain hammered against the windows of the hut.

Po Valley climbing

Crag: San Leonardo, Piemonte, Italy
Routes: Spigolino (f5a:led), La Barbie (f5c:sec), Bugs Bunny (f5a:sec), Siamo Solo Noi (f5b:led), Siamo Pure (f5b:sec), Rodicchio (f4c:led), Super Mario (f5c:sec), Il Gufo (f5c:led), Vento Da Nord (f5b:sec), Liberati (f6a+:sec)
The upper Po Valley is littered with granite crags, and you don't have to drive far from Saluzzo to get to them. So after an excellent evening enjoying Dolcetto d'Alba and a range of aperitivos in the old town, we were keen to get some cragging in after breakfast. Monte Bracco is probably the finest crag in these parts, but we were mindful of the need to conserve energy after Argentera and before our attempt on Viso, so we settled for the similar but smaller crag of San Leonardo above the village of Revello. The walk-in became far more of a trial than it needed to be, because a jeep obscured the critical path junction which led to the crag. So we made a tiring and unnecessary detour to the shrine of San Leonardo on top of a big hill overlooking the Po Valley. Eventually, however, we reached the crag, which was ideal for our purposes today: perhaps 20-25m high, well-bolted, shady and tree-lined, all routes on solid gneiss. I kicked off with a lead of Spigolino, a little ridge as its name suggests, which gave delightful gentle climbing up an elegant rib of gneiss. Vic's lead of La Barbie was a steeper but varied line at f5c/HVS, which took a weirdly awkward series of interlocking reefs of granite before emerging onto a delicate and technical slab. Bugs Bunny took an easier groove further left. I then led another fine route, Siamo Solo Noi, which went easily to a small overhang taken on big holds. Great moves over this to another thought-provoking slabby finish. The left-hand line was marginally harder, particularly as the sun was now drenching the upper part of the crag and it was becoming quite hot. Rodicchio was an easy route on huge holds, while Super Mario gave some really excellent steep and juggy climbing up a series of quite powerful vertical cracks at f5c+/E1. The route of the day, from my perspective, came next - Il Gufo (the Owl), a big 80ft pitch taking an excellent natural line up the highest part of the crag. Initially, the route goes up an awkward wide chimney, which slants right and can be avoided by some steep and insecure (and rather green) shelves on the right wall. A few moves up the chimney then become necessary, before the route breaks out right up the now clean wall to an excellent sustained headwall with some tricky but elegant moves. Neatly sustained at f5c/HVS+ throughout: a pleasingly efficient, clean lead. A couple of shorter routes, including one at f6a+ which contained one very technical move off a one-finger pocket, before we retreated from the sun up the valley to a panini in Cristallo. We then took the tortuous road all the way to Pian del Rei at 2000m, where we began the long walk-in to the Sella Hut in temperatures that were at least 20c cooler.

Argentera

Peaks: Cima Sud, Argentera (3297m/10,817ft)
Area: Alpi Maritime, Piemonte, Italy
Routes: South-East Flank (PD II)
September means a late dawn this far south in the Alps, so there was no need for a 4am start. It's a shortish route, too, despite its status as the highest peak in the Maritime Alps, so we breakfasted in a dark hut at 6am and left in the half-light before 7am. Some mist was still draping the lower part of the Assedras cwm as we took the intricate route through the moraines before beginning the ever-steepening slog up towards the Passo dei Detriti. As its name suggests, this involves some appalling scree and moraine powder higher up. We managed to find a few more solid ribs to scramble up, and the ascent was enlivened by views of Nasta and more distant northern peaks above the Val di Gesso that I've climbed before like Malinvern and Fremamorta. Still, it was with some relief that we gained the Passo and stunning morning views over the rest of the Maritime Alps as the sunshine lit the ridge. But the views Gelas, Maledie et al, good though they are, are eclipsed by the prospect of the onward route - largely because it is such an outrageously improbable line for an easy scramble. No wonder it wasn't discovered until years after Coolidge made the first ascent of the peak by a much harder ice couloir further north in 1879. Essentially, it is a narrow ramp curving up to a couloir, almost invisible from below. We descended a little too far over the other side of the ridge initially, giving us a slightly awkward and exposed section of slabby scrambling to gain the main ledge line at two long fixed ropes below the walls of Cima Genova. The ledge line continues in this superbly atmospheric vein, poised between the upper walls and the small glacier/neve field above the Baus bivouac. A few quite narrow sections lead to a rounded slab then a short chimney. Above this, easier and less exposed slopes up to a much longer couloir, which has fixed ropes up its entire length but gives pleasant II+ scrambling up to the east ridge. This gives a short section of very easy scrambling to gain the summit. We spent a few minutes here enjoying fantastic views as far as Monte Rosa, with tendrils of mist accentuating the atmosphere of the walls plunging down to the south. It was very satisfying to pick out the peaks I've climbed in this area. We roped up for some of the descent, just to renew our acquaintance with moving together. The ledge traverse was misty initially, then clearing, giving some stunning effects. From the Passo, the descent back to the hut, then valley, is pretty arduous. I passed within a couple of metres of a huge ibex at one point, then a small flock of ptarmigan (still white) flew over. After a cold wash in the river, we drove for pizza in Borgo San Dalmazzo, then continued north to hotel and aperitifs in Saluzzo.

Valdieri-Rifugio Remondino walk

Over a period of two decades, I reckon I've climbed more than 30 peaks in the Maritime Alps. However, the one big omission from my CV has always been the Argentera, the highpoint of the range. So this short trip with Vic seemed a good way to put that right, by treating it as a short acclimatisation peak en route to Viso. It's a long drive from Nice across the border into Liguria then Piemonte. Pleasant though, especially if you break the drive with salad nicoise in a superb Tende restaurant. The drive to the roadhead at Terme di Valdieri is astonishing: it starts off well surfaced and not too steep, but ends in several miles of bouldery unsurfaced singletrack. Not for the faint-hearted, and not ideal in the tiny C1 hire car we'd just picked up at Nice airport! The walk-in to the Remondino hut at the base of the Argentera is short and sharp, but the scenery at the end of the valley is delightful. I know the other side of this valley (i.e. across the frontier ridge around Le Boreon) very well, just a steep walk away on foot, but hundreds of miles and a day's journey by car. After weaving up through copses, a huge boulder field allows steeper upper slopes below a superb waterfall to be reached. A final steep (and hot) pull gains the upper cwm and the hut in a spectacular position below the pinnacles of Nasta and Argentera. We were both tired after a 5am start from Wales, so a few glasses of wine and an excellent meal of local game (chamois?) and mash sent us off for an early night after enjoying a wonderful cloud inversion as tendrils of mist licked up the Val di Gesso.

Caernarfon 10k

Race: Caernarfon 10k (North Wales Championships)
Time/Position: 36.10 (9th from 211 [2nd V40])
It's always nice to have an excuse to head out to Caernarfon with the family, even though we'd just got back from a long drive to London via Leicester. This was an opportunity to clear the head, although I still had a long urban East End run through Leyton in my legs. As such, it was a workmanlike performance at best, a few seconds down on last year's time (when it incorporated the Welsh Champs) and even further down on my best time for the course. I know from past experience that it is easy for me to overdo it on the flat seaside section that goes on for over 4k, with great views of Mynydd Mawr and the Menai Straits. I have suffered on the hills that give the rest of this route its character as a result of this in the past. So I took it fairly easy, especially as there was a headwind, losing too much ground to others in the category perhaps and going through 5k in 18.00. But it did mean I felt reasonably fresh for the hills, and I did pick up a few more places before losing out in the final very fast section past the castle.

Moel Famau fell race

Race: Cilcain Mountain Race (5m/1237ft)
Time/Position: 36.56 (10th from 202)
Last year's time was a minute down on 2011, and this was even slower! Not sure whether this is symbolic of a gradual decline, or an unusually good performance two years ago. Whatever, today was my tenth running of the event and so an anniversary of sorts: there is surely no other race I have done 10 times. A superb day for it too, sunny and clear, and a huge field (200+) turned out. It is far from a typical Clwydian race, with its big cheering crowds and village show atmosphere, but I always enjoy it. It was hotter than usual today, and I may have gone off a little too fast. Struggled quite early on the zigzags and was much slower to the top than usual. I made up for this a little with a reasonably sharp descent, and managed to claw back a few places and hold on for the final climb back to the village to just squeeze into the top 10.

Castle Inn climbing

Peak/Crag: Castle Inn Quarry
Routes: School Mam (f6a:led), Route 1 (f5:sec), Route 2 (f6a:sec), Lili Marlene (f5+:led), Alone With The Moon (f5:sec), Right-hand Variant (f6a:sec), Open Legs (f6b:led), Finale (f5:sec), More Than This (f6a:sec)
A huge contrast with our last visit in February when we climbed 20 routes but the temperature never rose above -2c!. I've been climbing here for 22 years and have done the routes on the main face around 15 times, but it remains the closest thing to a French-style bolted limestone crag in Wales. We only had a couple of hours spare, so I kicked off with the overgraded School Mam, the newer direct line, which goes up small positive holds to gain a steepish crack which leads to a very juggy final wall which is far easier than it looks from below. Mick then led Route 1, which remains (by some margin) my most frequently climbed route: always entertaining and now with even more bolts. Route 2, even with its polish, remains another soft touch in my view, but I always enjoy the technical moves up the little nobules and the tiny pinch-grip stalactite on the flowstone. We moved further to the left, where I led the awkward line of Lili Marlene before seconding Mick up a couple of other short routes. I then led the short but intricate 6b to its left. I did this cleanly and quickly, but again feel that it is probably a tad overgraded. Small holds, and tiny ripples for the feet, allow for moves diagonally right to gain a superb sharp edge and easier climbing. The 6a arete left of Finale was also despatched cleanly and efficiently: a valuable short session in advance of next months Alps trip.

Conwy Mountain climbing

Peak/Crag: Conwy Mountain Slab
Routes: Far Right Crack (VD:sol), Oaklands (S 4a:sol), Central Groove (D:sol), Left Slab Crack (MS:sol), Far Left Crack (VD:sol), Left corner (VD:sol), Central Arete (D:sol)
Keen to try out a new pair of running shoes after returning from our morning in Betws, so I jogged from the house up the normal route up Mynydd y Dref/Conwy Mountain in more warm sunshine. I stopped at the slab to do all seven of the natural 'lines' that mark this easy venue. You can climb almost anywhere at VDiff, although there is a tiny technical move at the top of Oaklands on the right of the slab. The best route is the obvious thin crack in the left-hand slab, which gives delightful gentle climbing at around Mild Severe. Just lovely in the hot sunshine, savouring the crisp moves and the warm rock. After this short climbing session, I continued running to the top of the hill, slowing a little after yesterday's race and this morning's short but intense outing. From here I ran back down the main path taken by the half marathon route (4 Aug) to a remarkable little wall of igneous rock that I've never noticed before. This (welded tuff) was a little like the chicken heads of Riglos, and I played around on it before running back to the house.

Clogwyn Cyrau climbing

Peak/Crag: Little Buttess, Clogwyn Cyrau, Betws
Routes: Ifan (VD:sol), The Groove (VD:sol), Sian (VD:sol), Siencyn (S:sol), Eliminate Start (VS:sol)
Being time-squeezed when climbing is not an uncommon experience for me, but this was an even shorter window than usual. Kate and kids had fizzy drinks in a Betws cafe, giving me less than 40 minutes to run up to Clogwyn Cyrau, do a few routes, and pelt back down through the forest. A beautiful day of warm sunshine, so I just nipped up a few familiar and very easy routes. That said, I don't think I've done Ifan before so did it first: a little groove just left of the enjoyable arete. The others were all good fun, nice to be in the shade but still rather humid. I took a little variant up the wall of Siencyn, then a long bouldery traverse of the wall to the right of the Eliminate Start, before running flat out back to Betws and taking the family on a long walk up to Miner's Bridge.

Ras y Mynydd

Race: Ras y Mynydd, Mynydd Llandegai (4.5m/800ft)
Time/Position: 29.31 (2nd from 43)
A cracking race - short and fast - which takes a logical loop round this little village in the wild Bethesda hinterland, whilst also taking in a great climb up Moel y Ci. A very fast start from the village hall, down small lanes, leads up to more typical fell race terrain to circumnavigate Moel y Ci. It joins uphill forest tracks to loop north round the hill to Parc y Bwlch, then takes a narrow path across to a sharp, steepish climb after Tynllidiart. I started out in fourth place but had worked my way up to second by the time we got to the woods: there were plenty of route options and the leader was just out of sight, so I had to guess the most logical route! After a very fast descent down to the western edge of the village, I could see the leader and got a bit closer to him on the long tarmac descent to the open moor of Gwaen Gynfi. There was no way I was going to catch him, however, so I just tried to consolidate second place and keep it going for the XC section across the moor. Great views of the mist peeling away from nearby Elidir Fawr. More road then leads back into the village for a final steep climb - luckily I felt surprisingly good throughout the race so was able to keep it going for a decent finish back at the hall, 22 seconds behind the winner. Excellent bara brith and tea was a welcome finishing touch. This race has been going for well over 20 years, apparently, and used to attract 120 runners.

Crafnant climbing

Peak/Crag: Two Tier Buttress, Crafnant
Routes: Little Cludge (HS 4b:led), Yew Tree Slabs p. 2 (VD:led), Pinnacle Wall Indirect (HS 4b:sec)
Rather like our bushwhacking expedition above Swallow Falls earlier this month, it is very disappointing to see these fine little climbs falling into disuse. I last climbed in Crafnant in 2002 with Tim (M a tiny baby in the cafe below) and remembered the climbs as short, clean and enjoyable. Now, however, the approach path is overgrown and even these good easy routes are not getting much traffic at all. Mick and I left in the early evening, and only had a couple of hours spare, so ploughed quickly up through the woods and eventually hacked out a route over to Two Tier Buttress. I led through thick grass and brambles to get to the clean slabs at the start of Little Cludge. This gives an excellent little pitch which really deserves more attention. Pleasant climbing up slabs to a break, then a steep finish, quite committing and thought-provoking for the grade. A juggy, vertical crack leads via a couple of small ledges to a little flake, then a tricky crux move as the crack steepens to gain superb, huge holds and an escape right to a nasty vegetated finish. From here I continued up the second pitch of Yew Tree Slabs to belay awkwardly within the branches of the ancient yew itself. Beautiful views out over this tranquil valley - like Gwynant, a useful riposte to those who think Eryri is 'less pretty' than the Lakes. Mick led through and made his way up a variation on Pinnacle Wall - the normal two-pitch version of which I've done before. Whether we followed the actual line of the Indirect variant is a moot point, but our version gave some nice climbing in any case. We went direct up the pinnacle on neat pockets, then up a licheny slab before moving right but climbing the arete direct quite delicately on small holds. An awful descent through nightmarish vegetation in the gully near Forestry Buttress (no hint of a path) meant we ran out of time as I had to get back to cook a family dinner. We both ran back down to the car at the far end of the lake.

Carneddau traverse (Capel Curig-Conwy)

Peaks: Carnedd Llywellyn, Foel Grach, Carnedd Gwenllian, Foel Fras, Drum, Carnedd y Ddelw, Foel Lwyd, Tal y Fan
Range: Carneddau, Eryri
Our short break in Conwy began in heavy rain yesterday, but this gave way to milky sunshine so we all went to Capel Curig for a short walk followed by tea and cake in the cafe. After this, the family drove back to Conwy while I ran back over the Carneddau, starting in Ogwen just outside Capel Curig and heading up the steep access road to Ffynnon Llugwy. Not the most scenic approach to Carnedd Llywellyn, but you gain height quickly and the steep zigzag slopes to Bwlch Eryl Farchog are excellent hard training! From here, I took a direct scrambling line across the ridge above Craig yr Ysfa, then jogged steadily up to the summit of Llywellyn, arriving in a reasonably quick 50 mins from Ogwen. Some mist over the summit as I continued along the ridge northward, most of the climbing already done and the long runnable ridge to look forward to. It's a bit rocky initially over to Foel Grach, of course, hard to get much speed up and rather chilly as the mist descended again. I stopped at the bothy to put on my jacket, then enjoyed the superb onward route - retracing numerous race routes, taking in Carnedd Gwenllian and then Foel Fras as the mist dissipated and the sun shone. Some of my favourite terrain of all at the northern end of the Carneddau, always a pleasure, although the ridge does have a very steep sting in the tail up Foel Lwyd from Bwlch y Ddaefaen. A little dehydrated as I ran along the tiring lumpy ridge to Tal y Fan then down to Hendre: there's no water on this route! Arrived within the walls 2:50 after setting out: fish and chips urgently needed.

Aran loop

Peaks: Aran Benllyn, Erw y Ddafad Ddu, Aran Fawddwy, Drosgl
Range: Aran, Eryri
A summer repeat of the Christmas Eve outing Peter and I did last year: with a few refinements to make it into an even better long run. Jez and I left Llanuwchllyn late afternoon, and kept a reasonable pace going on the long but relatively gentle climb up Benllyn (52 mins), following the race route until the scree summit. This really is a perfect training run, as the steep sections never last too long (apart from the final rise). Good views of black shower clouds sweeping over Cader Idris and the Rhinogs as we enjoyed the superb ridge running that leads over the middle peak to Aran Fawddwy's dramatic rock scenery. Although I've been up here many times, it's always been a bit of an 'unlucky' hill for me in terms of views, so it was nice to gaze across to the Berwyns and down to Llyn Lliwbran today. The ridge down to Drosgl was great fun, then steeply down to Llaethnant and the superb Creiglyn Dyfi - for me, one of the finest locations in Wales, remote and atmospheric (one day I'll do the climb that weaves up the lonely cliff above the lake). Another short climb to the little col before we both enjoyed the absolutely superb running descent down Cwm Llwydd and Cwm Croes. Access to this side of the Arans was once, outrageously, banned. We had no desire to run back on the road, so cut back to Llanuwchllyn through a brilliant, though overgrown little path heading north over stream valleys and meadows: dark clouds now enveloping the tops. Around 2.5 hours for the round this time, but much drier underfoot and clearer overhead.

Ponderosa fell race

Race: Ponderosa (4m/1000ft)
Time/Position: 28.39 (11th from 109)
One of the most exciting races on the calendar, this is always an unusual yet enjoyable outing. You don't get much time to relax, as the main climb is over in the first ten minutes. I was well off the pace as I crested the top of Cyrn y Brain in just under nine minutes from the Ponderosa - so I only had myself to blame for the fact that the inevitable major delays occurred on the very narrow tracks that weave through the heather on the initial descent. Eventually, when the descent kicks back west above Eglwyseg you get a few chances to overtake. I made one early attempt, clipped a mud bank and ended up lying in the heather, then two chaps face-planted in the first deep bog. After this I picked up a few more places as the paths broaden out, but couldn't quite catch a large group in front.

Coed Moel Famau loop

MTB Route: Coed Moel Famau loop (12.2km)
Another attempt to convert M from gamer to outdoor activist. Not particularly successful, as he didn't much enjoy the forest tracks which have a tendency to go up as well as down. But it stayed dry, and the grassy descent we usually run up on Friday is great fun on a mountain bike. From here, we skirted round Loggerheads and M waited at Tafarn y Gelyn while I climbed back to the car park.

North Wales half marathon

Race: North Wales half marathon (Beacons-Sychnant-Conwy Mountain)
Time/Position: 1.27.45 (11th from 341)
A wonderfully varied and scenic loop. I know every inch of this terrain and have run versions of this route several times in training, but I still thought that the idea of weaving it into a formal half marathon is a good one. Sadly, the inconsistency that has characterised the year was a factor again and I really struggled throughout the race: didn't enjoy it as much as I'd hoped. I was barely aware of the event at all, only hearing about it last Monday, but thought that it might be fun, and possible for fell runners to gain a few places on the long climb up Sychnant and over Conwy Mountain. Actually, the exact reverse of this happened: I went reasonably well on the 5/6 mile flat section along the beach and bike path from the Beacons to the Llanfairfechan headland and was in 7th place at this stage. But I began to struggle as soon as the road kicked up towards Penmaenmawr and that was game over really: the long climb through Dwygyfylchi over Sychnant and the 'fell race' style section up Conwy Mountain was just a case of hanging on, certainly not the anticipated romp up steepish terrain. The paths over the mountain were all very familiar to me, and give lovely views over mountain and sea. I perked up a bit on the descent and caught the three runners who'd passed me on Sychnant as we went through Cadnant Park in Conwy and down to Marine Drive. Then I blew again, needing a gel - but hadn't bothered to pack anything. Just hanging on for the flat section through the marina and back along the soft, energy-draining beach sand.

Foel Goch scrambles

Peak/Crag: Creigiau Gleision/Foel Goch
Route: Needle's Eye (North) Arete (M:led p.1,2,3,4)
This crag is an atmospheric and neglected place with wonderful views into the jaws of Ogwen and down Nant Ffrancon. I'd been up here for the neighbouring South Arete before, but after doing Traditional Route above Betws this morning, the rain clouds wreathing Siabod cleared and it seemed like a good idea to bolt on a mountain outing to the day. John is still very new to all this, and is leaving the country soon anyway, so a long scramble with good views was in order. We ploughed up the steep hillside via the shallow scree couloir in 20 minutes, running where possible. The broad gully then gives access to the tremendous rock architecture which characterises this crag: very much a place for the mountaineer, with this route in particular having a distinctly Alpine flavour. We traversed right to avoid a wet slab, then crept rightwards along an exposed ledge to the North Arete itself. We roped up here, and I led round the bulging wall, an easy traverse, to gain a vegetated and insecure grassy runnel which led steeply up to regain the arete at an exposed notch. Great views over the gully to Tryfan. After bringing John up, I led a short second pitch up a slab to the sharp arete itself, gaining the 'Needle's eye' - a perfect thread belay that it seemed rude not to use. I took the next section direct, up a steep crack (more like easy climbing than scrambling) and dodgy blocks to a flake then the top of a gendarme. After another tricky but very short pitch, the route breaks up into a series of pinnacles. We took the rope off and I was pleasantly surprised by the continuation: taking all the pinnacles direct on good rock. Very windy, but superb clarity of light as the rain clouds dissipated completely: deep blue skies and fluffy clouds. We ran to the summit of Foel Goch, then plunged down to Bwlch y Brecan to gain superb, exhilarating running down the spur separating Cwm Bual from Cwm Perfedd. This ends in a very steep nose which gives uncomfortable but very fast downhill running to the old road.

Swallow Falls Buttress climbing

Crag: Craig Rhaeadr Ewynnol, Betws y Coed
Route: Traditional Route (S:led p.1,2,3,4)
This climb is being lost to the vegetation: a real shame, as it is a nice route in the mould of Aberglaslyn's better known Canyon Rib, and would benefit from more traffic. It will always be an esoteric outing because of its location, but the short pitches and modest standard made it an ideal route to take novice John up - particularly because some heavy showers had just swept across the region and were still anchored over the mountains. We parked at Ty Hyll and enjoyed a delightful amble along the River Lledr with just the odd spot of light drizzle. After passing Swallow Falls, we bushwhacked up to the start of the route - fairly easy to find, but unpleasant amounts of mud and brambles. It was clearly pretty dirty but seemed dryish, and we'd come all this way, so I led off up the coffin-shaped block to 'have a look'. A few moves gained the top of the block, then a step to a platform led to another crack. This had good handholds but mossy, insecure and overgrown footholds on the right wall. The second pitch took a short, clean crack to a tricky move to gain some big finishing holds. The views over the valley to Swallow Falls just get better, with a lovely atmosphere created by the rush of the water. The third pitch was easy up two linked cracks, a weakness in the wall, but all the holds and nut placements needed excavation - it was feeling like a first ascent by now. All very enjoyable and gentle, though, and John was able to follow after a bit of thought. I sidled down the recess to gain the original finish, slightly runout to a flake, then good climbing up a broad groove in a nice position to the woods on top: great views across to the tourists at the Falls, who were now watching us with interest. The weather was starting to clear as we descended (too early initially - an Indiana Jones-style nightmare as a wall collapsed beneath my feet and the brambles threatened to bury us). The sun came out as we sauntered back along the Lledr, so I thought we should make the day into a two-parter. After lunch in Capel, we drove down the old Nant Ffrancon road intent on a mountaineering afternoon - but that seems to warrant a separate entry!

Deeside Off-Road Race

Race: Deeside Off-Road Grand Prix Race 3 (4.8m)
Time/Position: 27.01
Quite a bit quicker than the first two races in the series, but no different in terms of position, so there may have been some small tweaks to the course. I have been feeling a little quicker in the last two weeks, though, so concentrated on trying to stay with in-form Jez. Yet again, the race was dominated by Veterans, but I needed a reasonable finishing position as I will be away for the fourth and final race next month. Jez pulled away a bit on the fields, while I managed to pull back on the tarmac. It all came down to a fun sprint finish, which I inevitably lost!

Clwydian run

Having returned home yesterday, this was an attempt to up the mileage in preparation for Pedol Peris: the marathons and Scotland seem a distant memory now. I ran along the leat from Cadole, then through Cilcain up to the crossroads and along to climb the steep side of Moel Arthur. Then back along the whole ridge to Moel Dywyll and Moel Famau and back via a detour to Loggerheads.

Exmoor run

Peak: Dunkery Beacon
Area: Exmoor, Somerset
We opted to take a circuitous route home from Cornwall, so set off from a night in Tiverton up through Exmoor to the coast at Minehead. Torrential rain as we parked below Dunkery Beacon. This was a nice way to loosen the legs after last night's race, although the Beacon itself - the highpoint of Exmoor - is a very short outing from the road. I lengthened the run by following a track to the south of the hill as the shower clouds began to lift, then doubled back round to the huge cairn on the summit in spectacular conditions of sunburst and storm cloud. Views over Exmoor and across the Severn to the Glamorgan coast. I continued down through some lovely woods, then walked back up Dunkery Beacon for a second time with Kate during a longer sunny interval. Later, we all walked up Glastonbury Tor and looked back to this hill on the western horizon.

Tywardreath Trotter

Race: Tywardreath Trotter, Cornwall (7m)
Time/Position: 44.32 (6th from 266 [2nd V40])
An ideal opportunity to stretch my legs on the long journey home from Coverack, this race exceeded my expectations - a lovely multi-terrain circuit with a bit of everything thrown into the mix. A really special atmosphere throughout: this was clearly a big event and the village turned out to watch in amazingly big numbers. A long and tortuous drive via Veryan and Mevagissey - sustained by a classic cream tea - saw us arrive in Tywardreath near Fowey as the evening sun came out: neither child could be persuaded to do the fun run, preferring to take in the race barbecue instead. Almost 300 runners from a huge range of clubs turned out, as this was the final counter in the Cornish summer off-road race series. After a circuit of the whole village, we headed out into the lanes via a steep, rocky descent down to a lovely riverside path. It was hard to overtake so I took it easy for a while, expecting a long climb up to the 3 mile point (having luckily checked the profile and map just before the start!). I began to pick up places and soon found myself in a group of four, about 50m behind the lead group of four. After we crested the high point of the route, tarmac lanes led to more bridleways. I was evenly matched with the others in the group on the road, but tended to gain ground on the steeper fell-style climbs. As a result, I pulled into fourth place during the long final climb up a small road which lead to fields with a superb view of the sea above Fowey. I was still in fourth approaching the final descent down steep steps, during which you can hear the roar (almost a roar anyway!) of the village crowds. They then get a good view as you descend down a dip then climb back up to the pub. My pathetic excuse for a finishing kick meant I was run out of it in front of my family in the last 100m, pushed back down to sixth place by the two chaps I'd run in with: less than a minute behind the winner surprisingly. The most enjoyable race I've done for some time: a great event. I ran straight back up to the car and we began the long drive to our next hotel in Tiverton via Dartmoor, me still in my sweaty race vest.

Pednavounder-Godrevy Cornish coast run

After an attempt at a speed session on the lanes yesterday, I continued the holiday theme with another relaxed outing first thing in the morning. From Pednavounder, the sun cast low beams over the sea as I descended into Coverack at Dolor Point. Lovely running through the village to gain the SW Coast Path, this time heading NE towards Pedn Myin and Lowland Point. The scenery here is less dramatic than on Sunday's outing, but gives fine running right next to the sea, past seals and curlews. Dean Quarry is an unfortunate unsightly intrusion, but Godrevy Cove comes shortly afterwards and is a remote and appealing beach. From here, I headed inland, gradually climbing to the hamlet of Rosenithon, then back home via the tiny lanes I'd explored yesterday - through the heathland of Main Dale to St Keverne Beacon and the cottage.

Chynhalls-Carn Kennack Cornish coast run

The first full day of our Cornish holiday, so left bright and early to jog down from our cottage at Pednavounder to Trewillis and the Lizard coastline above Chynhalls cliff. I'd explored some of this yesterday, but the morning run along the SW Coast Path was just superb. Tremendous views west from Black Head, then over Pedn Boar to Beagles Hole (supposedly the site of buried pirate treasure - with a very specific legend attached). From here, a very steep up-and-down over Downas Cove led to a series of atmospheric coves, then steep Zawn Vinoc and the peninsula of Carrick Luz. Quicker, flatter running then led to Kennack Sands and over to Carn Kennack, before I located the obscure path that led via a surprisingly tough climb inland to Trevenwith farm and a good bridleway to the hamlet of Ponsongath and back to the cottage.

Longland's Climb, Cloggy

Crag: Clogwyn du'r Arddu, Yr Wyddfa
Routes: Longland's Climb (VS 4a,4b,4a,4c:led p.1,2,5)
One of the grand old Welsh classics and only the second time I've climbed on this, the greatest of all Welsh crags. We had initially planned to do some shorter routes on the steep East Buttress, but such is the nature of this long-running heatwave that a big route on West Buttress just seemed more appropriate. Longland's was the first route to breach this face in 1928, and gives a tremendous route up a series of intricate narrow slabs on the left of the cliff. I found it more sustained, slightly better, and probably a tad more serious than Great Slab, which we did two years ago. The adventure begins immediately, with the scramble along the East Terrace to gain a wet and vegetated approach line that goes up behind a big flake. We roped up for the airy move round this flake to a good thread in an already exposed position. I led up the first narrow slab. A mildly tricky start gains a good flake then easy and enjoyable climbing in a nice position up the slab, poised above the Black Cleft to the left. The dry weather meant that even the crack on the right of the slab was dry, lending itself to some cam placements. I couldn't find a decent belay where the slab narrowed into a chimney where the right wall closes in, so continued up the second pitch as the slab steepens slightly up sharp flakes to a good nut placement. Then comes the crux, right at the top of this giant 40m pitch: small holds lead to the top of the slab then a surprisingly tricky mantelshelf in a superb position pulling out of the slab to the right, then up more easily to a poor belay. Vic's pitch was equally long, better and more coherent than we'd expected. The guide suggests it is broken and chossy, but it's actually good straitforward slabby climbing in a superb position high on the cliff. This leads to a big ledge with numerous flakes: above which the final pitch rises intimidatingly. Steep moves up a vague arete poised above a lot of space beyond the right edge of the ledge leads via a surprisingly awkward pinch grip and hard pull up (for the grade) to a huge jug, which leads to more good holds then easier climbing up right towards a final awkward slanting chimney. I led a final fifth pitch up the broken rib which leads to a wide couloir and the top. A long descent down the Eastern Terrace: all quite atmospheric, and much more secure than the Western Terrace we descended in 2011. Thirsty and hungry, we were glad to traverse right down good scrambling sections to the sacs. After a late lunch, we decided that swimming in usually freezing, dark, atmospheric Llyn du'r Arddu was a better prize than another route - so scampered down the screes and plunged in. Chilly, but not unacceptable.

Adam Rib, Craig Cwm Du

Crag/Peak: Craig Cwm Du, Mynydd Mawr
Routes: Adam Rib (HS 4b:led p.1,4)
Broke the long afternoon journey to the Caernarfon hinterland with an idyllic coastal run from Aber to Llanfairfechan and back. Blue sky, deep blue sea, a cooling onshore breeze. After a picnic, I headed up meet Vic at the obscure but superbly situated village of Fron. I couldn't remember coming up here before, but the views of Nantlle and Llyn are tremendous, especially on a day like this. We had decided to take advantage of the heatwave by going for those high, north-facing crags that need weather like this - always satisfying to grab these 'prizes', rather like winter climbing in that sense. We parked at the quarries and walked along the fine level path above Llyn Ffynnhonau to gain the main Mynydd Mawr ridge. We should have just contoured into the cwm at this point, but looked to maintain height and quickly ran out of descent options as the crag just becomes too steep. Cue an infuriating detour all the way to the top of the crag and down rubble and heather slopes further east. An enormous waste of precious time and - more importantly - energy, as we were intending to head to Cloggy first thing tomorrow morning. Once there, Adam Rib is fairly easy to identify: I'd been up in this remote cwm once before and have wanted to do the route for years. It is one of the classic low-grade mountaineering routes in Snowdonia, and clearly visible from Caernarfon and surrounds. It gives a lovely route in a delightfully peaceful location. It was all bone dry and warm as I set off up the messy first pitch with the sun sinking over the ridge. Even this had pleasant moments, a long 40m scramble with some steeper sections up the rib line. Vic went too far left on the next pitch, but I thought it was a lovely piece of gentle climbing, up the left wall of a deep groove to a subsidiary rib, then a juggy traverse across to the stance. As Vic was now diagonally above me, and completely off route, I fashioned a belay with the limited gear I had and he continued to lead upwards towards the real line, depriving me of pitch three! After a delicate traverse across to get his gear, I moved back to the juggy crack left of the main rib, then a few loose pinnacles to the saddle belay below the final pitch. This is steep and narrow: the crux of the route, so it was nice to be able to lead it especially as the low sun lit the rib as we climbed upwards. I crept up the right-hand side then pulled leftwards onto the rib in a superb position. The rock needs careful handling here, but the 4b crux is very short and the position above is excellent as the rib flattens out whilst remaining narrow. Then a beautiful walk down from Mynydd Mawr, along the ridge in superb clarity of evening light, with a long corridor of sunlight over the Irish Sea and Llyn. A couple of pints in the Railway in Porthmadog followed by pizza on the terrace.

Trafford AC Grand Prix 3k

Race: Longford Park 3000m
Time/Position: 9.49 (14th from 27 [1st Veteran])
After 300 races and 15 years of running, this was my first ever formal track meet: at Longford Park in Stretford. It was also my first ever 3k race - but it had struck me for a while that sub 10 minutes was a fairly obvious target for one of my vintage and decrepitude. The problem is that interval training, other speedwork and all road races are purely winter pursuits for me: summer is reserved exclusively for the mountains. As such, I'd done no formal preparation for this: and it is a pretty serious event in a proper athletics stadium on a proper track with a crowd and some very talented athletes. In short, I was impressed with the level of organisation and the precision of the timing: and really enjoyed the very different experience of pelting round the track for 7.5 laps. I concentrated on maintaining 1:20 per lap pace, and stayed reasonably comfortable for the first 3 or 4. Then, inevitably, oxygen debt becomes the key factor - but I managed to push the pace just a little to give myself a cushion for sub-10. The intense heat of the day just wasn't a factor, surprisingly, although a stiff breeze was annoying at times. The last lap was quite tough, but I was pleased with my time and wonder if I could go a bit quicker during winter training.

Tryfan West Face scrambles

Crag/Peak: West Face, Tryfan
Routes: V Buttress Arete (M:led p.1,2,3), Notch Arete (M:led p.1,2,3)
After taking John on his first ever climb last month, I thought he might enjoy a short mountaineering day a little more, so we went for a combined run/scramble up the West Face of Tryfan in the continuing spell of high pressure and warm sunshine. This is usually described as Tryfan's 'cinderella' area, far removed from the crowds of punters on the East Face classics. This combination gives a superb mountain day, however, and was ideal for our purposes as time was tight. We jogged slowly upwards to gain the shallow gully which gives steep but rapid access to the upper part of the West Face (20 mins). I've done some routes here over the years, but couldn't remember going this far 'up'. I located the V Buttress quite easily, and led off from the loose gully in running shoes on my short 9mm rope. After a flake, some nice moves gain the crest of the buttress, after which a series of sharp flakes led to a belay. I deliberately kept all the pitches short so I could keep an eye on John. Above, the ridge continued in this vein: easy angled slabs and flakes at the exact border of scrambling and climbing (Alpine PD+ perhaps). At the top, I led through up a variant finish - a steep little chimney on the crest of the ridge. We then unroped and scrambled diagonally up right to where I thought Notch Arete started. This was nice, but a bit midgy, and involved some scrambly sections to gain the base of the arete. Notch Arete was a real surprise: a lovely Alpine style ridge, almost a chandelle, glowing in the sunshine. Perfect rock, and I weaved around picking up nice variants up chimneys and grooves to gain a sloping platform. Two more pitches led quite delightfully up the centre of the arete - all easy angled, big holds, perfect for novice John. Wonderful views, and a connoisseur's route up Tryfan. We emerged at the Notch, then enjoyed picking a direct line above to North Tower to lunch on the summit in hot sunshine. We descended the South Ridge to Bwlch Tryfan, then ran down via Llyn Bochlwyd: Notch Arete very obvious as a line from here.

Fairy Freckled Cow trail race

Race: Freckled Cow/Alwen trail race (11k)
Time/Position: 43.02 (6th from 143)
The hottest race I can remember since a scorcher on Gamelin three or four years ago. Llyn Alwen is in something of a bowl, although that's not immediately apparent, and there was very little breeze. To make matters worse, the race started just before midday on a hot (25c) midsummer day. It's the same for everyone, though, and the intermittent woodland does at least offer a bit of shade. I'd never done the event before, although I have run round Alwen a few times in the past. It's a delightful circuit round a scenic lake, with lots of undulations before crossing the outflow at the wild Hiraethog end. From here, a steady but draining climb into the moors leads to a short ridge before more undulations lead to the woods and the dam at the end of the lake. I picked up a few places on the short climbs before the bridge and, although I struggled on the main climb in the heat, everybody slowed a bit here. The remainder of the race, through the undulating woods on the western shore, was pretty tough as the heat took its toll.

Deeside Off-Road race

Race: Deeside Off-Road Grand Prix Race 2 (4.8m)
Time/Position: 27.48 (7th from 80)
Another pleasant and warm evening for the second race in this summer XC series. As with last month's opener, I found this a bit of a struggle, but deliberately started a little more steadily and eventually came in 20 seconds quicker. Another strong field, but some fairly large gaps again opened during the first lap of the fields and woods. I was gaining on the runner in front, but couldn't catch him, and was caught out by my old bugbear - an upset stomach - on the final run-in along the dyke. Cue a desperate final lap as I sprinted to get to the facilities.

Ras Foel Fras

Race: Foel Fras fell race (20k/920m)
Time/Position: 1.55.48 (6th from 60)
In contrast to last year, when I found myself leading over Moel Wnion in driving sleet, as well as 2009 (when an incoming storm decimated the field on the summit of Garnedd Uchaf) conditions today were calm and serene. Although I was at least four minutes down, however, I still really enjoyed the race which remains one of my favourites: maybe my fifth time at the event? The climb from Aber must be one of the longest anywhere - basically five miles and an hour of constant uphill effort. After the steep early tarmac, some gaps started to appear as we all got into our respective rhythms. Jez was well ahead at this point but, unusually for a race of this length, myself and a guy from Glossopdale found ourselves neatly matched for pace on the long gradual climb up Drum. We took it in turns to take over the lead, pushing ourselves gradually towards the summit. He was stronger towards the top of Drum, although I managed to drag myself back on the boggy crawl up Foel Fras where I regained a bit of strength. We tried in vain to get up to the runner in third place before scampering through the awkward boulder fields on top of Foel Fras to fast running over the good path to Garnedd Uchaf. No bearing necessary this year, but I still managed to plunge too far north, skirting Bera Mawr in a reasonably direct contouring line but unfortunately bringing us both out on the steep scree below the summit. We both went flying on the tussocks shortly before this, and I continued slightly winded. I took a better line across to Moel Wnion, and on the early part of the descent - but the Glossopdale runner and another fast finisher were too strong for me on the descent and I finished at the back of our small group. My knee wasn't the problem, just a basic lack of speed at present. That said, I always thoroughly enjoy the final descent on this race - with the sea glistening below and great views over the wooded valley to Llwytmor.

Pant Ifan climbing

Crag: Craig Bwlch y Moch/Craig Pant Ifan, Tremadog
Routes: Striptease (VS 5a:sec), Great Western/The Quakerman (VS+ 4b,5a,4a,4b:led p.1,3), Scratch (VS 4b,4c:led p.1)
Woke up to steady drizzle in Porthmadog: very annoying. So we put our Pant Ifan plans on hold and went off to do the classic wet weather option of Striptease, which takes a gently overhanging deep chimney/corner and therefore stays dry. I've done this at least three times now, and always find it strenuous for the grade, so Vic led. As always, it provided a good workout: with three tricky sections to fight past the overlaps. The second is the hardest, giving awkward moves with little for the feet. We then headed back to the cafe for a drink and respite from the midges, waiting for the weather to clear. It did, so we headed up the screes to Pant Ifan, where I wanted to do Great Western: one of the few VS gaps for me left at Tremadog. I led a rather damp first pitch (drying rapidly) up dirty rock from the trees to a groove before heading up the little arete to the right. One tricky move up this, involving a pinched hold, regains the groove and tree belay. Vic then led through up a variant direct second pitch: the 5a twin cracks taken by The Quakerman, a nearby eliminate at E2. This was a tad vegetated, but excellent: technical rather than strenuous, and very enjoyable on finger locks and toe jams. Easier ground then leads to the crux of Great Western: a deceptively awkward slanting chimney/crack, which continually pushes you off balance towards a tricky slab on the left. I then led the vegetated third, now in warm sunshine, which goes up cracks directly above the belay to a stance in a niche further left (Borchgrevink?). The last pitch follows broken and vegetated ground up to a very steep and quite sustained final groove: felt harder than 4b, so possibly not the final pitch of Great Western. We abbed down Barbarian and started immediately up Scratch in warm, almost hot, sunshine. I led the delightful first pitch (for the second time) which traverses gently across the face up slabby rock and small positive holds: lovely stuff. I followed Vic up the final pitch, with merciful shade for the initial crack, which is easier than it looks. The traverse across to the final crack is an atmospheric finale, great position, and leads to good jams.

Bwlch y Moch climbing

Crag: Craig Bwlch y Moch, Tremadog
Routes: Smarter than the Average Bear (VS 4c:sec), Yogi p.2 (VS 4b), Shere Khan (S:led), Mr Ranger (VS 4c:sec), Valerie's Rib Direct (HS 4a,4a:led p.1)
Broke the late afternoon journey to Tremadog with a truly delightful run from Aber, from the coast to the Falls, then along the foot of Moel Wnion to pick up the Foel Fras race descent. Blue sky above, deep blue sea below. Startled a party of German schoolchildren on this very obscure path! Later on, I met Vic at Eric's cafe for an evening of climbing, and we did a few short, easy routes on the right of the main crag: just concentrating on mileage, using hybrids of various different routes to good effect. I followed Vic up the variant left of the Yogi arete (which I last did 20 years ago) to begin. This gives some nice delicate moves and we continued up the variant finish to Yogi, up the rough, crystalline crack which splits the final slab. Abbed off, and I led the very easy Shere Khan: this supposedly had a nice finish up the headwall, but I could only find a vegetated groove. It looked awful, so I continued further right and belayed just below the Yogi arete so Vic could lead the pleasant finishing groove of Smarter at 4c. Mr Ranger is a cleaned and surprisingly good pitch which takes the obvious corner to a short slab, then a steep but juggy crack which joins Yogi higher up. We were moving quickly and efficiently, so we nipped round to the old classic Valerie's Rib for a finale. This is perhaps the closest climb to the cafe, and I opted for the direct start, which is a useful way of extending the route. A slabby corner, huge holds, leads to big blocks and easy climbing to the normal start. The moves across to the arete were as delightful as I remembered them from 20 years ago: perfectly placed holds allow for a delicate traverse across two grooves and give access to a ledge on the crest of the rib. I then followed the right wall of the groove taken by the Direct variant for a bit, but moved right quite quickly to take in the lovely climbing on the normal route. A good evening's work, so we retired to the Ship for pie and pint.

Moel y Gamelin fell race

Race: Moel y Gamelin (10m/2400ft)
Time/Position: 1.20.24 (10th from 105)
Heavy rain swept across the top of the Horseshoe Pass as we started up the short, sharp climb to Moel y Faen: and a cold headwind slowed progress along the ridge. But after Wednesday's awful performance, I was relieved to feel far stronger today and kept a reasonable plodding pace going across the tops of Gamelin, Moel y Gaer and the steep final climb up Moel Morfydd, the last peak on the ridge. It was all quite enjoyable in the conditions, much better than the hot weather of previous years (although I think I've only done this race twice before). It's not a typical fell race, because after the crossing at Bwlch y Groes it turns into a cross-country loop, out into the wilds to the west, before heading back for a tough final climb to regain the ridge and summit of Moel y Gamelin for the second time. I benefited a little from what remains of my winter speed work in this section (plus a useful tailwind), and started to pick up places, feeling good after holding back, and gained a couple more on the climb: the exact reverse of Wednesday. A very strong field again: a counter in three different championships.

Hotfoot up Famau fell race

Race: Hotfoot up Famau
Time/Position: 40.32 (13th from 104)
I've been due a really bad race for a while, struggling in training for a month, so there was something inevitable about this. Well over two minutes down on last year's time, and not far off my slowest ever time for this race (which is normally one of my favourites). I didn't feel too bad initially, but the unique nature of this course means you have to start fast and hold your place on the long plummet down the valley. Started to struggle towards the top of Moel y Gaer and felt awful on the little ridge that leads to the steep descent on peat to Nant y Ne. I completely blew here, and had to walk even the gentlest gradient, losing buckets of time and lots of positions. The gully was hot and humid, which made my suffering even worse, and I was glad to get to the descent down from Famau. Not sure what the problem was: long high-pressure day at conference, or hayfever? Looks like I might be helping to organise this race next year, so it's a bit of a shame I couldn't bow out with a better performance!

Moel Siabod run

Peaks: Moel Siabod
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
After a few short climbs, we headed across the bridge near Plas y Brenin and started the long gradual climb through the woods to the open hill beyond. This gives very pleasant running, never too steep, although a few sharp rises on the open hill slowed progress a bit. We got to the summit in just under 40 minutes, to find the cloud base trying to lift from the summits of the Snowdon group and Carneddau. Nice panoramic views for John, which is what I'd intended. Jogged down to the car in Mymbyr in 20 minutes or so: a lovely descent, particularly after the summit scree slopes.

Dyffryn Mymbyr Climbing

Crag: Clogwyn Wen/Blocks, Dyffryn Mymbyr
Routes: Holly Tree Buttress (VD:led), Slab and Crack (VD:led), Chatterbox (S:led)
I had promised John B a better experience of Eryri after his unfortunate hypothermia incident at Easter led to an even worse infection which stopped him running for months. He asked to be taken climbing for the first time ever, so we set off for the small crags near Plas y Brenin by way of an introduction before our planned mountain run. I've never done these routes before, as the crags are just short Peak-style outcrops really, but Holly Tree Buttress made a near perfect beginner's climb: very simple yet nicely varied. It was a bit damp, as low cloud was producing light drizzle, but a steep crack led to a pinnacle, then a little traverse to a crack. Pleasant easy climbing up this led to a juggy final face. John struggled a bit, and left a bit of gear behind, but seemed to enjoy it so we did a couple of short routes on the Blocks before heading off on our run. Chatterbox was a thrutchy route up a wide off-width crack, hardly ideal, and rather tough for the grade - although extremely short. We then jogged back to the car and started our run up Siabod.

Bryn Alyn Orienteering

Race: Bryn Alyn Orienteering (Light Green, 3k+)
Time/Position: 39.41 (2nd from 9)
A second attempt at short-course orienteering, after my initial humiliating baptism at Erddig. I thought the open hill nature of this course, along with the fact that I know the area well (indeed I was racing across exactly the same ground last night!) might help me, but again I found it hard to adapt to the large scale and sheer level of detail on the map. It started off OK, with the first few checkpoints fairly easy to locate on the open hill east of Bryn Alyn, then a tricky one in a copse was followed by a long uphill leg which I managed quite easily. I was going well at this point, then became over-confident for the next long leg, which seemed straightforward but took a while to find (hidden under a crag). The next two proved tough, as I misjudged the scale of the map and went too far away for CP 7, then did the same for the 8th CP hidden below a crag. I concentrated for the final four on a long run-in, and finally adapted to the scale for a reasonably quick and efficient finale.

Up the Beast fell race

Race: Up the Beast (4.5m/1500ft)
Time/Position: 37:33 (8th from 90)
The local races all seem to be getting far tougher: there was a time when I was first Veteran at this race, but I can't see those days coming back again! As with last week, this event was dominated by the over 40s and I finished well down the field although my time was virtually identical to last year. I've done every one of these races since it was launched, six now I think, and always really enjoy it. This time, I started a little slowly as I have been feeling very tired since returning from Scotland and have done very little running. This tactic worked reasonably well, and I kept it going on the first climb via the 'Beast' to the limestone crags of Bryn Alyn. The little climbing sections are a novelty and, although I lost places on the descent to Big Covert, I regained them on the super-steep and very humid climb back to Bryn Alyn. A good descent of the Beast allowed me to pick up a couple more places through the woods: knee feeling fine now.

Lliwedd climbing

Peak/Crag: Lliwedd East Buttress
Routes: Avalanche (VD: led p.1,3,5), Red Wall (HVD: led p.2), Longland's Continuation (HVD: led p.2)
The classic combination up Lliwedd's long East Buttress, and a glaring gap in my climbing CV for 25 years. It is essentially a 9 or 10 pitch (almost 300m) continuous slice of mountaineering: very few technical moves, but a great deal of route-finding, awkward rock and nice situations. A week of warm dry sunshine made the big, high cliffs almost compulsory: the ideal Lliwedd conditions. I drove down to Mymbyr to avoid the ludicrous fees of PyP, which was probably full anyway, and ran from the valley up past Pen y Gwryd to rejoin Vic and the sacs at the Pass: a nice loosener after last evening's race. The walk-in was a delight, warm breezes and fantastic clarity of light: Lliwedd's buttresses lit to perfection by the morning sun. It did take us the allotted hour, mind, so I pushed on up the first pitch - which is a pleasant groove allowing us to get reacquainted with Lliwedd's characteristic pinch and sloping holds. This took us into the shadows at the end of the Heather Shelf, and Vic then merged the enjoyable long rising traverse to easy slabs. This gave me the Quartz Wall, which gives a few brief awkward moves over blocky quartz to move right into a short groove. I belayed on the rib. Then came the first route-finding challenge: I had only bought a vague and inadequate topo by way of 'Alpine Training', as Lliwedd is notorious for its complexity and tricky navigation. As a result, Vic continued up the vegetated and loose groove - not very pleasant - up to a steeper wall. I followed through, easy scrambling, up to the Great Terrace and the end of Avalanche. The first pitch of Red Wall gives good climbing, up a groove to a steepening, then nice moves on good solid rock to gain a rib on the right. Great atmosphere above the terrace and shallow gully: the complexity and scale of the cliff very apparent at this point. The topo was virtually useless up here, so I continued (wrongly I suspect) up an obvious slab which gave slightly precarious climbing up dirty cracks and suspect flakes, vegetated in places, and meant I had to go above the Green Gallery to get a decent belay. A nice section of rock lies above, and Longland's Continuation is far more solid and very atmospheric high up on the crag: Vic led up a slab to a good clean rib and a series of easy cracks. This gave me the delightful final 40ft slab, the technical crux of the entire route at 4b, but very short-lived. It has the virtue of finishing on the sunny summit, and was a great way to finish. A long but beautifully sunny descent, and I ran from PyP back to the car in Mymbyr.

Deeside Off-Road Race

Race: Deestriders Off-Road Grand Prix Race 1 (4.6m)

Time/Position: 28.06 (5th from 75)

Lots of diary clashes preventing me from racing at present, so I seized the opportunity to give this four-race summer series a proper bash for the first time (having never managed more than one appearance in previous years). A nice warm evening, very dry underfoot, and a valuable work-out. I felt quite uncomfortable throughout, probably because I haven't raced or done any speedwork for over a month. Went off a little fast, and found myself battling it out for fifth place after a mile or two. My knee felt OK, but even though this course is flat - based on two big laps of playing fields and woodland - I lost ground as soon as the race left the tarmac. By the time I got to the return leg along a dyke by the side of the Dee, I was starting to blow a bit. But, given my lack of training and racing, I was quite pleased to finish 5th - although all the top five were over 40.